Z1 oil change went well but...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Z1 oil change went well but...

    I have a 2004 Z1 FR that I just recently changed the oil. After getting the fork put back together and cleaned up, I wanted to double check the foot nuts. ETA was tight and the rebound side the foot nut spins in place. I took the the topcap off and removed the cart again to see how the threads were and they are fine. I did engage the ETA and that did not help. Does anyone have any tips on tightening the foot nut on the rebound side ?

    I did call marz and they were not very helpful.

  2. #2
    MK_
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    Try roughing up the metal part of the damper which contacts the base part of the lowers as you tighten the nut, it will dig into the magnesium and you can tighten the nut. That said, I never bothered and the fork never leaked and worked just fine.

    _MK

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  3. #3
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    Just curious as to why you removed the cartridges to do an oil change?
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  4. #4
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Just curious as to why you removed the cartridges to do an oil change?
    To cycle them. You have to remove the carts and the springs from them to cycle them and get all the oil out. If you don't, you don't have any idea how much oil to put in to get the proper amount and more importantly, you oil change doesn't count as an oil change as you leave a lot of gunk still in the fork/damper.

    _MK

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  5. #5
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    what MK said, I did have to cycle the carts and there seemed to be alot of dirty oil on the inside of the fork legs as well. Even after doing that when I had pulled the cart out a second time the oil was already a little dirty. I must have missed a little.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_
    Try roughing up the metal part of the damper which contacts the base part of the lowers as you tighten the nut, it will dig into the magnesium and you can tighten the nut. That said, I never bothered and the fork never leaked and worked just fine.

    _MK
    Maybe add a small star washer?

    When I had an AM1 apart last week it did the same thing until it tightened the top cap and compressed the fork a little.

  7. #7
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudpie
    what MK said, I did have to cycle the carts and there seemed to be alot of dirty oil on the inside of the fork legs as well. Even after doing that when I had pulled the cart out a second time the oil was already a little dirty. I must have missed a little.
    Some people like to change the oil, go for a ride around the block and change oil again. Particularly on the Rebound side, as that's where most gunk is produced. In the early life of the Marzocchi, that's a bit wasteful as gunk will be produced in large quantities for quite some time, as they take for ever to brake in.

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  8. #8
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSINGA
    Maybe add a small star washer?
    That would work on the rebound side, on the ETA side, though, it will be adding travel (minute, but adding, nevertheless) to the fork as the cartridge is the travel limiter there. This at least is true on the AM1. On the 04 Z1, both carts were roughly the same length, I am not sure if they both were doing the travel limiting job or it was one or the other.

    _MK

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  9. #9
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    the ETA side tightens up no problem, it is just the rebound side. I think the second time around I was able to catch a few more threads, It did not leak after a short run around the house, I thinking I may be okay until the next oil change then can try the tricks you guys mentioned on the rebound side.

    SS I had the same thing happen on my AM1 but once the top cap is screwed down I was able to tighten the foot nut. Not so with the Z1.

  10. #10
    not so super...
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    Mr Mudpie,


    Can you make a 10:15 Bull Mtn ride on Sat?

  11. #11
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    Mine never get super tight. I ususally engage the ETA fully, and then try and spin the foot nut quickly with a box-end wrench. I've never had a problem with them leaking or coming out under compression, etc.
    I stopped driving my bike into my garage - I'm now protected with Roof Rack Ranger app for my iPhone.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSINGA
    Mr Mudpie,


    Can you make a 10:15 Bull Mtn ride on Sat?
    I am working on it, I heard you guys were going up there.

  13. #13
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    Hold it...

    You just need to hold the cartridge in place so it doesn't spin with the foot nut. I compress the uppers all the way down and hold the cartride with a long pair of needle nose-type pliers (sp?)...or if you have a female/kid around with long skinny fingers they can usually hold it well enough to keep it from spinning.

  14. #14
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    You don't need to remove the cartridges to cycle oil out of them. Remove the fork from the bike, remove the springs from the fork, turn fork upside down over a bucket, cycle the damper rods.

    To properly retighten the foot nut you need an impact wrench. I've seen the Marzocchi rep do it at Whistler to swap out cartridges, and it works beautifully. The wrench spins the foot nut faster than the cartridge can spin. Barring that, you can try to wedge something in there to hold the cartridge, like needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver.

  15. #15
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    Take a tie down strap (preferably one with a ratchet mechanisim on it) and loop it over the thru-axle or hub and then over the crown and compress the the fork. I wouldn't trust putting a lot of force on the M-arch with the strap that's why say use the axle or hub. This will use the force of the springs to put enough pressure on it it to keep it from spinning. If not, I would then try roughing up the bottom of the damper where it contacts the bottom of the fork (but that means taking it apart again). Don't put a star-washer or anyting else in there or it might not seal up well and you may not have enough threads left for the foot nut. I had trouble with my 66R this weekend. I didn't feel like taking it apart to rough it up and the strap helped me get it tight enough.

    What did Marz tell you to try?

  16. #16
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    Thread the foot nut onto the first couple threads by hand.

    Then grab the top of the cartridge (so the top cap must be loose) and pull the cartridge up while tightening the footnut with the proper socket.

    Then fill with oil from the top with a measuring cup or beaker.

    I just did this about 5 minutes ago.
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  17. #17
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    I usually cycle fresh oil through the cart (out of the fork) until the goo is all gone. It has taken 10-15 cycles before to clear out all the dark oil. Just suck up the clean oil and push it out into another container. Expensive, maybe... but the fork feels good. Tried 5W motor oil instead of the good stuff a while back and noticed no ill effects. I was careful to cycle out all the 5W before putting it back together.

  18. #18
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    [QUOTE=watermoccasin]You don't need to remove the cartridges to cycle oil out of them. Remove the fork from the bike, remove the springs from the fork, turn fork upside down over a bucket, cycle the damper rods.

    Listen to MK - he's correct on removing the cartridges to get ALL the oil out. Plus now is a good time to clean the cartridges, stanchions, and lowers before putting the new oil inside

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cort
    Listen to MK - he's correct on removing the cartridges to get ALL the oil out. Plus now is a good time to clean the cartridges, stanchions, and lowers before putting the new oil inside
    ...I also like to remove the damper rod from the rebound cart to inspect it from time to time, wipe everything down & be confident I have a nice fresh tune on my fork.


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