why cant i run a 6" Flick on a Hardrock?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    why cant i run a 6" Flick on a Hardrock?

    i measured the Axle to crown-race height of the RST fork, and its around 495mm. with the Sherman Flick Plus being only 4cm higher, i dont see a reson why i cant run that 6" fork on the Hardrock frame. plus, if i set it down to 110mm travel, the Axel to crown-race height will be the same. im not worried about the geometry, i want the bike to be a little more raked out, im not liking how this bike is handling on the downhills.

  2. #2
    Meh.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANdRewLIu6294
    i measured the Axle to crown-race height of the RST fork, and its around 495mm. with the Sherman Flick Plus being only 4cm higher, i dont see a reson why i cant run that 6" fork on the Hardrock frame. plus, if i set it down to 110mm travel, the Axel to crown-race height will be the same. im not worried about the geometry, i want the bike to be a little more raked out, im not liking how this bike is handling on the downhills.
    You can, it's just a waste. Get a better frame. Remember that the travel adjust is for climbing only. Any hard riding with the travel down could break the travel adjuster.

  3. #3
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    yeah, i know.

    i just plan on setting it down when im riding on the road.

    and the only reason im using this frame is cuz this is not a priority, and i cant afford both a frame and fork right now, but i will be getting a new frame as soon as i can (or when i break this one)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANdRewLIu6294
    i measured the Axle to crown-race height of the RST fork, and its around 495mm. with the Sherman Flick Plus being only 4cm higher, i dont see a reson why i cant run that 6" fork on the Hardrock frame. plus, if i set it down to 110mm travel, the Axel to crown-race height will be the same. im not worried about the geometry, i want the bike to be a little more raked out, im not liking how this bike is handling on the downhills.
    Well, you could, but you'd risk shearing the head tube right off of the bike due to the fact that the frame isn't built for such a fork. The extra travel will encourage you to try things that the bike just isn't up to.

    It will also slacken the head angle severely, which will impact the handling of the bike in a major way. A Hardrock has a 70 degree head angle with 100mm, which means that with 150 mm you'll be seriously choppered out. Plus, the 110 mm setting on the Flick is only for climbing, and will break if you try any downhill or jumps on it.

    Pick up a good, sturdy 100-120 mm fork for that frame and you'll be much happier. A Manitou Black, Marzocchi MX series, or Rock Shox Recon/Tora should do you fine, and each of those can be had for under $200 if you shop around.

  5. #5
    Meh.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirkrameroy
    Well, you could, but you'd risk shearing the head tube right off of the bike due to the fact that the frame isn't built for such a fork. The extra travel will encourage you to try things that the bike just isn't up to.

    It will also slacken the head angle severely, which will impact the handling of the bike in a major way. A Hardrock has a 70 degree head angle with 100mm, which means that with 150 mm you'll be seriously choppered out. Plus, the 110 mm setting on the Flick is only for climbing, and will break if you try any downhill or jumps on it.

    Pick up a good, sturdy 100-120 mm fork for that frame and you'll be much happier. A Manitou Black, Marzocchi MX series, or Rock Shox Recon/Tora should do you fine, and each of those can be had for under $200 if you shop around.
    Sherman has extended lowers, so it's not that tall. But yeah, you should probably look at the 130mm Sherman.

  6. #6
    Old man on a bike
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    Just what is the a-c height for the Sherman Flick 150? 499 sounds way too low...
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Sherman has extended lowers, so it's not that tall. But yeah, you should probably look at the 130mm Sherman.
    That doesn't mean squat. That's to make up for the extra inch of unused stanchion, and so the arch doesn't hit the frame.


    He should consider one of the new Rockshox Uturn forks from 90-130mm.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robot Chicken
    That doesn't mean squat. That's to make up for the extra inch of unused stanchion, and so the arch doesn't hit the frame.


    He should consider one of the new Rockshox Uturn forks from 90-130mm.
    Extended lowers has nothing to do with whether or not the arch hits the frame. All forks have some unused stanchion, and I think an inch is exaggerated. The a to c height of my old Manitou Sherman Firefly (130mm travel) was quite a bit lower than the Marzocchi Drop-Off Comp (130mm travel).

    If you're talking about the Pike, it's 95 to 140mm. The Recon and Tora are 85 to 130. Revelation is 100 to 130.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Extended lowers has nothing to do with whether or not the arch hits the frame. All forks have some unused stanchion, and I think an inch is exaggerated. The a to c height of my old Manitou Sherman Firefly (130mm travel) was quite a bit lower than the Marzocchi Drop-Off Comp (130mm travel).

    If you're talking about the Pike, it's 95 to 140mm. The Recon and Tora are 85 to 130. Revelation is 100 to 130.
    Extended lowers has everything to do with the arch hitting the frame.

    Notice how the seals are also lower. Using the extended lowers allow for the same bushing overlap and amount of travel normal forks have.

    Why else do you think extended lowers are used besides looking uselessly cool?

  10. #10
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    that's why not.

    and that was only from using a fork 30mm taller than the frame was intended for; granted, also riding how it wasn't intended......

    save your money for a frame/fork that can handle each other. it's less costly in the long run.
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  11. #11
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    wow, i've never seen that before, only sheared off headtubes

    if travel makes any difference, the 130mm flick should be 20mm shorter than the 150mm

    so it would be only around 1.5cm taller than the RST, which should not be that much of a problem, if any, since some 110-120mm travel forks are the same height

  12. #12
    MattSavage
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    It'll void the warranty...

    but I wouldn't worry about damaging your frame. Specialized is way too cautious. Those headtubes are super beefy. Those bikes are meant to be ridden hard, they're just budget oriented. I see this big ol' fat kid dirt jumping his and hitting the slalom loop all the time here in Bend. He must be about 15 and 220 lbs, but kills it. He hasn't had a problem on his with a Pike fork, which he's had for over a year..

    I have an 04 FSR XC with an 03 Z1 FR on it. It's almost identical to the 02 Enduro front triangle, which is rated for a 130 mm fork, yet my FSR XC is only rated for 100mm. Go figure. The reason I upped the travel on the fork, was to balance out the 5 inches in the rear from the BETD link. It has worked like a charm for over a year now, no signs of stress.

    I say go for it. If you do have a problem, the frames are cheap and easy to find a replacement. Just don't try to warranty it if there is a problem, that wouldn't be fair since you knowingly voided it.
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  13. #13
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    yeah, i know the frame is strong, i cased onto a 6 in curb going at around 25mph, cuz my friend was bothering me when i was trying a new trick, nothing at all happened to the frame, no signs of cracks anywhere. and this happened twice.

    thank, i think i'll just go with the 130mm version then. BTW, i want a headtube-angle around 67-68 degrees, i dont think the extra 1.5cm is gonna change the geometry THAT much, but more around 1 to 2 degrees to 68-69. that might be a problem, cuz the bike isnt that stable going at highspeed, and i want to increase stability.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Just what is the a-c height for the Sherman Flick 150? 499 sounds way too low...
    He said 4cm taller. That's 40mm.

  15. #15
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    The problem with extra long forks is landing. The slacker angle means when the front end slaps down, you've got an angle which tries to bend the fork more than compressing it. This is what makes life very hard for the head-tube on your frame.

    General trail riding I don't think you'd have a problem.

    Remember, while the hardrock frames are damn good, it's not a jump/street frame.
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  16. #16
    MattSavage
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    Here's an idea...

    Take your current fork off the frame, stick a nice long piece of steel pipe through the headtube, and just wrench on the sucker until the head tube snaps off(a little cut with a hacksaw might help). Then have a couple friends punch you in the face a few times, kick you in the balls when you're down, and just tell your parents you ate **** when your crappy bike broke.

    Maybe they'll feel sorry for you and hook you up with a new frame.
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  17. #17
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    uh,,,how about not? the hardrock is less than a year old, more like 6 months

  18. #18
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    axle to crown on a Flick is 532mm. You can run any fork you want just ride the frame as intended not as the fork was.

  19. #19
    Old man on a bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    He said 4cm taller. That's 40mm.
    Thanks, I didn't catch the switch in units o'measurement...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  20. #20
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    the axle to crown for the Flick PLUS is 532mm, not the 2004 Flick. i'm assuming that since there is 20mm less travel, that the axle to crown will be 512mm, not 532mm?

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by ANdRewLIu6294
    the axle to crown for the Flick PLUS is 532mm, not the 2004 Flick. i'm assuming that since there is 20mm less travel, that the axle to crown will be 512mm, not 532mm?
    yes................

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