Travel mod on Fox F120 RL...who's done it?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Travel mod on Fox F120 RL...who's done it?

    How many of you have done the air rod mod? If you have, how's the shock been preforming since it has been done....any regrets?

    Anybody ordered a stock rod just in case...if so, how much was it?
    I'm thinking about cutting 10mm at first to see if it makes a diff......still unsure though.

    I really can't believe this issue hasn't been plastered all over the forum. Either some people don't care or don't really know how a shock is supposed to perform. To me this is a big deal, and surely I'm not alone in thinking this.

  2. #2
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    I read just a little about it. Is there an article describing it?
    i ride bikes

  3. #3
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    There is in a Austr. MTB mag. I can't find it though.

  4. #4
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    I just cut 10mm off.....I'm off to ride, we will see if it helps.

  5. #5
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    Had Push do my float, have no idea how much they removed
    I did my F120- I took 20mm off

    No regrets, I now run about 5 psi higher then I did before

  6. #6
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    Just got back and have to say it worked great. I cut 10mm off and reduced fluid to 2cc. I was able to set a 28mm sag with 10psi more than I did before. I had 1 3/8" showing after a ride the other day...rode same trail tonight and had 3/8" showing.

    All in all the shock performed better than before. To everyone that owns this shock this mod needs to be done....seriously. I will leave it at 10mm for now, I imagine if I cut more off it would be a problem.

    I just saved myself $200 by not sending it to push. I still can't believe Fox hasn't done something more to remedy this issue.

  7. #7
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    What did you cut exactly? Got pictures? I have the exact same bike with the exact same issue. I like how the bike rides, but would like to get that last inch every now and then.

  8. #8
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    Has anyone tried reducing the oil volume on top of the air piston before cutting the air piston rod? I just cracked mine open last week and there was probably 5-10cc on top of the piston. I dumped it out and put in about 2-3cc and it already feels a lot better but I havent taken it trailside yet to check the travel.

  9. #9
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    The Aussie Mag article

    Attached is a condensed copy of the article in Word.

    I haven't tried it yet. I recently bought a new F100RLC which gets much closer to full travel than my old F100RL.
    I plan on trying it on my old Fox first, and if it works, do the new one.

    As small as the pillow packs are, I'm not sure I would want to use much less than that (5cc).
    COnversely, if you do end up going too far, ie cutting too much, adding extra oil is a way to undo it without having to buy a new rod.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    Just got back and have to say it worked great. I cut 10mm off and reduced fluid to 2cc. I was able to set a 28mm sag with 10psi more than I did before. I had 1 3/8" showing after a ride the other day...rode same trail tonight and had 3/8" showing.

    All in all the shock performed better than before. To everyone that owns this shock this mod needs to be done....seriously. I will leave it at 10mm for now, I imagine if I cut more off it would be a problem.

    I just saved myself $200 by not sending it to push. I still can't believe Fox hasn't done something more to remedy this issue.
    larlev, what do you mean you cut off 10 mm . i was under the impression that the spacer was 1 solid 20 mm spacer but ive seen somewhere else were it was 2 10mm spacers. was this the case in yours? or did you actually cut the 20mm spacer in 2 pieces?

    i am two considering this and this weekend im going to open mine up and change the oil and seals so i thought i may be able to do it then.

    did it mess up your turning ability? did you notice anything geometry wise?

    good forum.
    Honk your horn if im paying for your mortgage!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by russelr
    larlev, what do you mean you cut off 10 mm . i was under the impression that the spacer was 1 solid 20 mm spacer but ive seen somewhere else were it was 2 10mm spacers. was this the case in yours? or did you actually cut the 20mm spacer in 2 pieces?

    i am two considering this and this weekend im going to open mine up and change the oil and seals so i thought i may be able to do it then.

    did it mess up your turning ability? did you notice anything geometry wise?

    good forum.

    I think you are confusing this between two different modifications.

    The "cut mod" basically reducing the length of the air piston shaft and creates a higher volume air chamber in the fork.
    This is for people not getting full travel out of their fork.
    PUSH now offers this modification.

    The travel reduction mod either uses standard Fox plastic shims you can get in 10mm and 20mm thickness or involves the removal and relocation of a roll pin to lower the travel settings on the air piston shaft. Fox's technical drawings on their website can help with this and the links have been posted on this forum before (do a search).

    I have done both to my 2008 Float 140 RLC.
    I inserted a standard Fox 10mm spacer to drop the fork down to 130mm of travel to match the rear travel of my frame.

    Along with this I also cut 15mm off of the air piston shaft to get more travel. It is much better than before I did the modification but I'm still not getting full travel.
    I found I have to run a slightly higher air pressure to get proper sag.

    I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by reformed roadie
    Attached is a condensed copy of the article in Word.

    I haven't tried it yet. I recently bought a new F100RLC which gets much closer to full travel than my old F100RL.
    I plan on trying it on my old Fox first, and if it works, do the new one.

    As small as the pillow packs are, I'm not sure I would want to use much less than that (5cc).
    COnversely, if you do end up going too far, ie cutting too much, adding extra oil is a way to undo it without having to buy a new rod.
    Exactly how I did it......thanks for that

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUBCRAWL
    I think you are confusing this between two different modifications.

    The "cut mod" basically reducing the length of the air piston shaft and creates a higher volume air chamber in the fork.
    This is for people not getting full travel out of their fork.
    PUSH now offers this modification.

    The travel reduction mod either uses standard Fox plastic shims you can get in 10mm and 20mm thickness or involves the removal and relocation of a roll pin to lower the travel settings on the air piston shaft. Fox's technical drawings on their website can help with this and the links have been posted on this forum before (do a search).

    I have done both to my 2008 Float 140 RLC.
    I inserted a standard Fox 10mm spacer to drop the fork down to 130mm of travel to match the rear travel of my frame.

    Along with this I also cut 15mm off of the air piston shaft to get more travel. It is much better than before I did the modification but I'm still not getting full travel.
    I found I have to run a slightly higher air pressure to get proper sag.

    thats correct, i was thinking aobut the wrong thing. i thought for some reason he was increasing the travel length from 120 to 130 by taking the 10mm spacer out.
    Honk your horn if im paying for your mortgage!

  14. #14
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    There is no spacer on the F-series fork...FYI

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    There is no spacer on the F-series fork...FYI

    once again my bad i thought you were talking about the float 120 rl
    Honk your horn if im paying for your mortgage!

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