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  1. #1501
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithyk View Post
    On the jumping, not really, as I donít do jump. Just drops and roots


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    I hear you, but you'll never get a satisfactory Shockwiz conclusion without some significant deep compression events. So you might have to live withe results are getting now.

  2. #1502
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    I hear you, but you'll never get a satisfactory Shockwiz conclusion without some significant deep compression events. So you might have to live withe results are getting now.
    Thanks. Will ride for another few round and see what is the suggestion


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  3. #1503
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    I've been playing around with using different spacers in my rear (Fox DPS) shock and, when calibrating, the measured compression ratio is consistently a few tenths lower than the value given in tables from Fox. For instance, right now I'm using a 0.4 in^3 spacer that the Fox tables show as having a CR of 2.3, but the Shockwiz calibration measures it as 2.0. I've been using the measured value. Anybody know if this is correct, incorrect, or is the difference small enough it won't affect the tuning outcome all that much anyway?

  4. #1504
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    That sounds very low. When you have emptied all air, are you definitely replacing the valve cap prior to calibration?
    Quote Originally Posted by wayold View Post
    I've been playing around with using different spacers in my rear (Fox DPS) shock and, when calibrating, the measured compression ratio is consistently a few tenths lower than the value given in tables from Fox. For instance, right now I'm using a 0.4 in^3 spacer that the Fox tables show as having a CR of 2.3, but the Shockwiz calibration measures it as 2.0. I've been using the measured value. Anybody know if this is correct, incorrect, or is the difference small enough it won't affect the tuning outcome all that much anyway?

  5. #1505
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    Shockwiz

    I released the air to 53psi with 1 spacer and gotten the compression ratio as 2.2

    Is this ok? Was 2.2 also without volume spacer but the Air Pressure was 65psi and at 2.3 with AP 59 with 1 volume spacer


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  6. #1506
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithyk View Post
    I released the air to 53psi with 1 spacer and gotten the compression ratio as 2.2

    Is this ok? Was 2.2 also without volume spacer but the Air Pressure was 65psi and at 2.3 with AP 59 with 1 volume spacer


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    I dont understand "released the air to 53psi". Arent you removing all the air? Where does 53psi factor in to anything?

  7. #1507
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    Shockwiz

    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    I dont understand "released the air to 53psi". Arent you removing all the air? Where does 53psi factor in to anything?
    Mean I am removing air from original state of 59 to 53. Then I did the calibration and gotten 2.2 CR

    And yes, I remove all air first before the calibration

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  8. #1508
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    That sounds very low. When you have emptied all air, are you definitely replacing the valve cap prior to calibration?
    Yes, I am fully emptying the air (down to about 1 psi, as indicated in the Shockwiz app). Measured compression ratio ranged from 2.2-2.3 with a 0.8 in^3 spacer in the shock to 2.0 with a 0.4 in^3 spacer. I have a 7.25x1.75 2017 DPS FLOAT shock. Specified compression ratios from the linked FOX data sheet with these spacers are 2.5 and 2.3, respectively, so only 10-15% higher than what Shockwiz measures.

    Edit: I just recalibrated and made sure to put the valve cap on through the whole process. I got a measured CR of 2.1 (vs. 2.0 earlier when I'm not sure if the cap was on). Regardless, still a similar variance from the published CR spec.
    Last edited by wayold; 10-15-2018 at 09:46 AM.

  9. #1509
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    Has anyone come up with a solution to adapt the hose to a Cane Creek Inline IL? The knurled knob contacts the air can but just slightly.

    It will work on 7.25 x 1.75 but not 7.875" x 2.25. It might work with a bit of material filed off the hose. Thought I'd see if anyone had a solution first.

  10. #1510
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Has anyone come up with a solution to adapt the hose to a Cane Creek Inline IL? The knurled knob contacts the air can but just slightly.

    It will work on 7.25 x 1.75 but not 7.875" x 2.25. It might work with a bit of material filed off the hose. Thought I'd see if anyone had a solution first.
    You can get Schraeder valve extenders that might step it out enough to get clearance?

  11. #1511
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyC7 View Post
    You can get Schraeder valve extenders that might step it out enough to get clearance?
    I ended up taking a file to the knurled knob on the hose. Only needed to take a mm off gain the necessary clearance. Pretty easy fix for what Shockwiz lists as an incompatible shock.

  12. #1512
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    I'm having some problems with calibration. I'm following all the instructions (especially in regards to balancing both chambers) but I think I'm still having negative air chamber issues. When I finish I have a CR of 2.3/64.9psi/8%Shock Travel. I have re-calibrated three times and I get the same results. If I manually extend the fork with my hands the shock travel goes to 0%. I assume this is because of an unbalanced negative chamber but I am being pretty careful about cycling the fork when doing the calibration. Anyone have a foolproof way to get this fixed?
    It's a Fox 34 Rythm.

  13. #1513
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    It sounds like you are pulling it past the pneumatic top out point during calibration.

    You should only pull the fork out to the point that is normally ďzeroĒ travel when it is inflated and equalized. Pulling past that point will skew your results.


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  14. #1514
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    I've owned my Shockwiz since the product was first available.

    At first I thought it was a bit silly with limited practicality and was going to sell it but then I bought a new bike, then my wife's bike, and next my kid's bike and i'm finding it invaluable for setting proper air pressure in particular, but also other settings. Especially for my wife and kid that are unable to express how their suspension is behaving. But for me too.

    I hope to keep it for many years and use it to assist with set up on many bikes.

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  15. #1515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ganderson View Post
    It sounds like you are pulling it past the pneumatic top out point during calibration.

    You should only pull the fork out to the point that is normally ďzeroĒ travel when it is inflated and equalized. Pulling past that point will skew your results.


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    Itís a hard stop. The instructions say full extension.
    If you had to guess at a point before the hard stop, it would be incredibly difficult to guess at where that point was.

    I took my air spring cap off and looked down at the piston. It canít be seen because there is so much grease packed down there. Iím thinking that all this grease is messing with the bypass valve and preventing proper equalization. OR, I read somewhere else that air can get pushed down into the lowers and the only fix is a service.
    Iím going to give Fox a call today to figure this out.

  16. #1516
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ganderson View Post
    It sounds like you are pulling it past the pneumatic top out point during calibration.

    You should only pull the fork out to the point that is normally ďzeroĒ travel when it is inflated and equalized. Pulling past that point will skew your results.


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    Ive always pulled my fork out until it stopped, then zero'ed the shockwiz! So I'm supposed to zero the shocwiz with 10-15mm of travel used due to the negative spring?

  17. #1517
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    Quote Originally Posted by tkm16 View Post
    Ive always pulled my fork out until it stopped, then zero'ed the shockwiz! So I'm supposed to zero the shocwiz with 10-15mm of travel used due to the negative spring?
    Not necessarily, it depends on how far from the mechanical hard-stop top out the fork settles when pressurized/balanced.

    The easiest way to check your calibration accuracy is to compare the movement of the fork/shock to the percentage displayed by shockwiz.

    For instance, slowly press the fork to the 30% marker on the stanchion and look at the shockwiz display.. it should read 30%. This is all that matters.

  18. #1518
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ganderson View Post
    Not necessarily, it depends on how far from the mechanical hard-stop top out the fork settles when pressurized/balanced.

    The easiest way to check your calibration accuracy is to compare the movement of the fork/shock to the percentage displayed by shockwiz.

    For instance, slowly press the fork to the 30% marker on the stanchion and look at the shockwiz display.. it should read 30%. This is all that matters.
    Fox forks do not have sag markers.

  19. #1519
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    Quote Originally Posted by rstark18 View Post
    I'm having some problems with calibration. I'm following all the instructions (especially in regards to balancing both chambers) but I think I'm still having negative air chamber issues. When I finish I have a CR of 2.3/64.9psi/8%Shock Travel. I have re-calibrated three times and I get the same results. If I manually extend the fork with my hands the shock travel goes to 0%. I assume this is because of an unbalanced negative chamber but I am being pretty careful about cycling the fork when doing the calibration. Anyone have a foolproof way to get this fixed?
    It's a Fox 34 Rythm.
    Just a followup to my original post about this. It was air trapped in the lower air side that was giving me the problems. after burping that and cleaning out a TON of grease from inside the air stanchion, it calibrates normally. I'm now at CR of 2.3/68psi/1%Shock Travel.

  20. #1520
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    Quote Originally Posted by rstark18 View Post
    Fox forks do not have sag markers.
    Well measure and mark with masking tape then.




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  21. #1521
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    Quote Originally Posted by rstark18 View Post
    Fox forks do not have sag markers.
    they have o-rings
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  22. #1522
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    Looking for some advice on these results. This is for a Fox Float DPS with ONLY single rebound adjustment. It says my packing is bad but says my LSR is good.

    Shockwiz-voznd97.jpg

    Shockwiz-u8slh0v.jpg

    Shockwiz-bclzxla.jpg

    Shockwiz-o32h2nh.jpg
    Last edited by rstark18; 04-07-2019 at 12:45 AM.

  23. #1523
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    Quote Originally Posted by rstark18 View Post
    Looking for some advice on these results. This is for a Fox Float DPS with ONLY single rebound adjustment. It says my packing is bad but says my LSR is good.







    Not surprising, packing is from too much HSR and most factory shocks come with very stiff rebound valvinig, so it might feel good bouncing up and down and using the single (low speed) adjuster, but when you hit bumps deep in the travel it will be returning much slower.

    A rebound retune is the best solution, or else you have to find a balance of faster LSR than you would prefer or packing up in rough ground
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  24. #1524
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyC7 View Post
    Not surprising, packing is from too much HSR and most factory shocks come with very stiff rebound valvinig, so it might feel good bouncing up and down and using the single (low speed) adjuster, but when you hit bumps deep in the travel it will be returning much slower.

    A rebound retune is the best solution, or else you have to find a balance of faster LSR than you would prefer or packing up in rough ground
    That totally describes what I found on my DVO Topaz. Looking into the HSR shim stack I found 2 identical shims that were about as small as possible in thickness and diameter. Meaning there wasn't much that could be done to the stack without pretty much changing it to half, or less than half of the resistance. So I opted to go with the thinnest shock oil I could buy. It helped tremendously but did not totally eliminate the occasional packing.

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  25. #1525
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    If I'm ever able to ride again(or use my right arm at all), I'd like to try using a ShockWiz. I think the reason I destroyed my right arm was due to too little rebound damping sending me flying superman style off a fairly small high speed jump. Will it tell me where to set compression and rebound settings? My suspension bike always had a tendency to kick me and land scary nose heavy on table tops. I added more than a few clicks to help, but it certainly wasn't enough. All my other bikes are rigid so tuning is not my thing.

  26. #1526
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    Shockwiz

    Just got a 2019 Fox x2 to replace my Super Deluxe.

    For some reason the calibration wizard is giving me way too low of a ratio.. 2.4 - 2.5. Maybe its the new progressive bottom out bumper they are using in these shocks, tough to get full compression by hand.

    I think Iím officially switching to a Move-and-Measure method of calibration. Itís fast, easy and seems accurate.

    1. Air shock up to at or near your riding Air pressure.

    2. Fully equalize pos and neg air chambers.

    3. Boot up ShockWiz and mark baseline air pressure. Travel % should read 0% with the bike at rest and upright.

    4. Manually set calibration ratio to 2.5 (for shocks anyway)

    5. Zero o-ring and a slowly compress rear suspension until shockwiz displays 25% then release.

    6. Measure o-ring travel distance.
    -if less than 25% of your shocks travel, increase calibration ratio by .1 or more.
    -If more than 25% of your shocks travel, decrease calibration ratio by .1 or more.

    7. Repeat until 25% movement on shockwiz consistently equals 25% actual shock movement.

    8. Verify by checking at 30 and 35% or whatever % you want.



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    Last edited by Ganderson; 03-09-2019 at 06:34 AM.

  27. #1527
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    Just got mine...seems stuck at confidence level 49%. Wants me to hit some big jumps/drops. Iíve done several drops of around 12-18Ē, is that just not big enough, or is there another issue?

    Itís a Fox Float DPS, and I did run the calibration. Measuring the comp ratio gave me 2.8.

  28. #1528
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    Quote Originally Posted by mab411 View Post
    Just got mine...seems stuck at confidence level 49%. Wants me to hit some big jumps/drops. Iíve done several drops of around 12-18Ē, is that just not big enough, or is there another issue?

    Itís a Fox Float DPS, and I did run the calibration. Measuring the comp ratio gave me 2.8.
    I'm thinking you have pretty smooth trails over all.
    That's only happened to me when I ride pretty tame terrain.
    You are gonna have to I just find rougher trails to ride, or if that is as rough as they get, just keep riding them.

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  29. #1529
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    I've been playing with my shockwiz for over a year on my fox 36 and I think I have it set up much better lately, but what I've found is that I can be between 55 and 65 psi and shockwiz will say air pressure is ok. At the lower end of the air range though my high speed compression is sometimes yellow instead of red. Is it worth trying to get high speed compression to not be red? I even sent my fork to vorsprung and had the shim stack changed and shockwiz is still showing red.

    Also, at the end of a ride with 1,00 feet of climbing and descent shockwiz will still want me to pedal. The only way I can get it to register on the fork is if I pedal out of the saddle and purposely bob a lot. I'm worried by doing that it will suggest more low speed compression to counteract the bobbing I have to do to get it to register. Any thoughts?

    Thanks!

  30. #1530
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock Climber View Post
    I've been playing with my shockwiz for over a year on my fox 36 and I think I have it set up much better lately, but what I've found is that I can be between 55 and 65 psi and shockwiz will say air pressure is ok. At the lower end of the air range though my high speed compression is sometimes yellow instead of red. Is it worth trying to get high speed compression to not be red? I even sent my fork to vorsprung and had the shim stack changed and shockwiz is still showing red.

    Also, at the end of a ride with 1,00 feet of climbing and descent shockwiz will still want me to pedal. The only way I can get it to register on the fork is if I pedal out of the saddle and purposely bob a lot. I'm worried by doing that it will suggest more low speed compression to counteract the bobbing I have to do to get it to register. Any thoughts?

    Thanks!
    First thing to note is that you should take note of the higher air pressure as being "OK". I.e the 65psi. For that ride, it was obviously needed which supercedes the 55psi (unless it was a different trail?)

    If you stand over the bike and give a few really hard compressions, what % travel is used? Unless you are running a shitload of tokens, 40% is a really good marker. What I'm wondering here is whether you can compress more than 40% and in fact you need even more air. You must sort the air out first and then worry about the rest. Reply back with what you can compress %-wise.

  31. #1531
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    First thing to note is that you should take note of the higher air pressure as being "OK". I.e the 65psi. For that ride, it was obviously needed which supercedes the 55psi (unless it was a different trail?)

    If you stand over the bike and give a few really hard compressions, what % travel is used? Unless you are running a shitload of tokens, 40% is a really good marker. What I'm wondering here is whether you can compress more than 40% and in fact you need even more air. You must sort the air out first and then worry about the rest. Reply back with what you can compress %-wise.
    Thanks! I'll test that tonight and let you know. The last 20 rides have all been the exact same trail so I could get consistent results. It's a long climb with a hairy descent (lots of roots, drops and jumps) then a pedal section at the end.
    Last edited by Rock Climber; 04-08-2019 at 03:17 PM.

  32. #1532
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    First thing to note is that you should take note of the higher air pressure as being "OK". I.e the 65psi. For that ride, it was obviously needed which supercedes the 55psi (unless it was a different trail?)

    If you stand over the bike and give a few really hard compressions, what % travel is used? Unless you are running a shitload of tokens, 40% is a really good marker. What I'm wondering here is whether you can compress more than 40% and in fact you need even more air. You must sort the air out first and then worry about the rest. Reply back with what you can compress %-wise.
    40%?! You like a really firm spring, eh? If I pump as hard as I can, I usually get about 70-80% of travel used, and that's with what feels like a nice and firm spring (to me).

    This video says you should get about 90% of travel doing (not saying this video is gospel, but seems reasonable enough):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhnKTZu2AKs

  33. #1533
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Duffman View Post
    40%?! You like a really firm spring, eh? If I pump as hard as I can, I usually get about 70-80% of travel used, and that's with what feels like a nice and firm spring (to me).

    This video says you should get about 90% of travel doing (not saying this video is gospel, but seems reasonable enough):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhnKTZu2AKs
    That test is a very good one, but it's a DIFFERENT test. I said if you stand over the bike. Not ON the bike.

  34. #1534
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    That test is a very good one, but it's a DIFFERENT test. I said if you stand over the bike. Not ON the bike.
    Ah, I misunderstood. My mistake.

    Objection withdrawn.


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  35. #1535
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifuge View Post
    First thing to note is that you should take note of the higher air pressure as being "OK". I.e the 65psi. For that ride, it was obviously needed which supercedes the 55psi (unless it was a different trail?)

    If you stand over the bike and give a few really hard compressions, what % travel is used? Unless you are running a shitload of tokens, 40% is a really good marker. What I'm wondering here is whether you can compress more than 40% and in fact you need even more air. You must sort the air out first and then worry about the rest. Reply back with what you can compress %-wise.
    I did the test last night. I get 70mm of 170mm so almost exactly 40%. That's at 55psi. (I did it a couple of time just to verify and it was consistent)

  36. #1536
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    2015 Santa Cruz Bronson, Manitou Mcleod with king can full volume. I'm 135 naked on a scale. Just did the calibration and I get:

    2.3 CR
    71.7 baseline (it was 75 when I started it and somehow it lost 3 psi lol)
    3% shock travel.

    Did I do this right or did I screw it up?

  37. #1537
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    Anybody have thoughts on the fork issue while climbing? Am I not riding out of the saddle hard enough? Am I too smooth of a climber

  38. #1538
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    I also have a question regarding calibration.

    Doing calibration on a FOX DPX2 shock. At some point he tells me to inflate the shock to the manufacturers pressure (i opt with about 200 psi). The next step he says go through 3-5 extensions/50% compressions into the travel. When i complete this, the air pressure will always drop about 20 psi (to about 180 psi).
    Is this normal?
    Cheers

  39. #1539
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    Quote Originally Posted by freyrida View Post
    I also have a question regarding calibration.

    Doing calibration on a FOX DPX2 shock. At some point he tells me to inflate the shock to the manufacturers pressure (i opt with about 200 psi). The next step he says go through 3-5 extensions/50% compressions into the travel. When i complete this, the air pressure will always drop about 20 psi (to about 180 psi).
    Is this normal?
    Cheers
    Itís because you arenít equalizing the positive and negative chambers during your initial inflation of the shock. While pressuring up initially, cycle the shock a few times every 20ish psig. Do this every time you need to pressure up your shock, shockwhiz or not
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  40. #1540
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    Ah, Cheers, cool - Thanks!!

  41. #1541
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    Basic adjustment question. If the slider is to the left of center I assume you do whatever the suggestion on the left says? Or do you do the suggestion on the right to ďpullĒ the slider in the direction it needs to go?

  42. #1542
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsthubbins View Post
    Basic adjustment question. If the slider is to the left of center I assume you do whatever the suggestion on the left says? Or do you do the suggestion on the right to ďpullĒ the slider in the direction it needs to go?
    Your first assumption is correct. If the slider is on the left, do the left suggestion.

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