RS Pike with Vanilla lowers- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    RS Pike with Vanilla lowers

    to make a long story short, i had a vanilla with a broken damper, a pike, and a 9mm front wheel. i heard one mechanic saying it could be done. so i decided to do it.

    the only thing i had to do is to shorten the pike, because the lower bushing in the vanilla legs is 2cm higher then in the pike legs. i used the travel spacer from the vanilla. the process was very easy, because the pike is a dual air.
    ended up with a 125mm vanilla with a moco
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  2. #2
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    Whoa.

    Im like... whoa.

  3. #3
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    More info please!
    Ask me About O Rings (Check the Classified section)

  4. #4
    pvd
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    Sure, but who's the hack wrenching on that thing. It looks like an angry monkey went at that crown race.

  5. #5
    www.derbyrims.com
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    Frankenfork!

    How's the ride?

  6. #6
    Seeeriously easy Livin
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    Wait!!!!!!!

    Does this mean we can put 20mm pike lowers on a fox 32???????

  7. #7

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    Why would you want to put Pike lowers on a 32, when the 32 offers 15mm. It's supposed to be all this bag of **** and more!

  8. #8
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    That is a very interesting little mod there

  9. #9
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    using a caliper, the legs are exactly the same distance apart. i cant get the damn race off, so i havent ridden it yet. but pushing it down with my hands, it feels just like a regular pike da.
    ill go to an lbs tomorrow, get the race off, and install it on the single speed around thursday.
    ill ride it, and report.

    question though: when i compressed it to make sure the lowers dont touch the crown, there was a loud pop sound, and the left fork seal came out. then, i took out the positive spring shraeder valve, and did it again. same results.
    this is my analysis: the positive spring is 0 psi, and the negative is 100 psi. when i compress the fork, something is causing air to escape from the negative spring to the lowers, knocking the seal out. i hope this would not happen when the positive spring has 100 psi as well. can anyone offer an explanation?

  10. #10

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    I have no problems with this, so long as the OP does it safely.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    I have no problems with this, so long as the OP does it safely.
    if this was for me, than i am the OP

  12. #12
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    Hahaha wow I can't believe that worked.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    to make a long story short, i had a vanilla with a broken damper, a pike, and a 9mm front wheel. i heard one mechanic saying it could be done. so i decided to do it.

    the only thing i had to do is to shorten the pike, because the lower bushing in the vanilla legs is 2cm higher then in the pike legs. i used the travel spacer from the vanilla. the process was very easy, because the pike is a dual air.
    ended up with a 125mm vanilla with a moco
    Wow. It's kind of like the dog with the human face in the 70's remake of Invasion of the Body Snatchers.

  14. #14
    Old man on a bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    Wow. It's kind of like the dog with the human face in the 70's remake of Invasion of the Body Snatchers.
    I was thinking of Sarah Jessica Parker and Pierce Brosnan in Mars Attacks!

    Amazing...figure out the seal popping problem yet?
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    using a caliper, the legs are exactly the same distance apart. i cant get the damn race off, so i havent ridden it yet. but pushing it down with my hands, it feels just like a regular pike da.
    ill go to an lbs tomorrow, get the race off, and install it on the single speed around thursday.
    ill ride it, and report.

    question though: when i compressed it to make sure the lowers dont touch the crown, there was a loud pop sound, and the left fork seal came out. then, i took out the positive spring shraeder valve, and did it again. same results.
    this is my analysis: the positive spring is 0 psi, and the negative is 100 psi. when i compress the fork, something is causing air to escape from the negative spring to the lowers, knocking the seal out. i hope this would not happen when the positive spring has 100 psi as well. can anyone offer an explanation?
    Too much oil in the lowers? Should only be about 10-15cc I think. The air pressure shouldn't have anything to do with it since the air spring is sealed inside the stanchion. The pressure making that seal pop out is coming from the lowers.

    To if air was leaking in to the lowers, it would feel like there is air in the positive spring, also if undo the bolt at the bottom you will hear air escaping.

    How well does the spring and damper rod fit into the lowers? since both fox and RS use rods that press fit into the bottom of the fork, I would have though there might be a slight difference in size

  16. #16
    err, 27.5+
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    Ha, that's funny. It is like one of those things that people say might work and nobody ever actually does it. Kudos for working outside the box.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  17. #17

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    if you put fox uppers on pike bottoms.. do you get a 155mm pike with extra flexy rapid wearing tubes?

  18. #18
    eat your porridge jordie
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    I got an 05 Fox Float 125r from a bike swap that had busted lowers. I put on lowers from a Rockshox Tora, both 32mm. I have not had any problems to date except the Fox uppers are pretty flexy.

    OP: A reason that I can think of for the dust seal to pop out is since the Rock Shox uses a sealed damper leg (kind of like a cartridge) you may need to burp the fox lowers. Try bolting the legs up to the spring and damper shaft with the fork in the fully compressed position.
    "If you want to do something ordinary people can't, you have to be willing to do what ordinary people won't"

  19. #19

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    The seals pop on Fox forks because they don't use a retaining ring on the oil seal like Zoke does. This practice also allows zoke tuning by oil level as well.

    As far as resolving in in a Fox, I compress the fork and then install the seals. Vacuum in the leg holds the seals in place.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    The seals pop on Fox forks because they don't use a retaining ring on the oil seal like Zoke does. This practice also allows zoke tuning by oil level as well.

    As far as resolving in in a Fox, I compress the fork and then install the seals. Vacuum in the leg holds the seals in place.
    great! i'll try that if the installed fork pops the seal as well

  21. #21
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    i installed the fork and went riding around the block. it feels just like a pike.
    hopefully, i'll be able to ride on trail on friday, and provide more info. i think l'll open it up after the ride, to exclude any damage to the lowers due to the improvised interface.

  22. #22
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    using a caliper, the legs are exactly the same distance apart. i cant get the damn race off, so i havent ridden it yet. but pushing it down with my hands, it feels just like a regular pike da.
    ill go to an lbs tomorrow, get the race off, and install it on the single speed around thursday.
    ill ride it, and report.

    question though: when i compressed it to make sure the lowers dont touch the crown, there was a loud pop sound, and the left fork seal came out. then, i took out the positive spring shraeder valve, and did it again. same results.
    this is my analysis: the positive spring is 0 psi, and the negative is 100 psi. when i compress the fork, something is causing air to escape from the negative spring to the lowers, knocking the seal out. i hope this would not happen when the positive spring has 100 psi as well. can anyone offer an explanation?
    GREAT MOD!!!! Kudos, respect, I'm not worthy!!!!!

    Firstly, congratulations.. that is the most out the box thinking I've seen in these forums for a long time.

    On the issues... seal popping out. It could be whatever you were advised of or that the stanchions stance is a little off. Unlikely, as the seals would actually come out during rebound, not compression. Anyway, take a second look.

    The air tube in the Pike is completely sealed, so if air is scaping you have a busted seal in the air tube.

    Most probably it was just a matter of prying the seals as mentioned before.

    I'd do the other way around... the lighter Fox uppers with the open bath damper in the Pike robust 20mm lowers and even try to machine a piece or two to make have the Air U-Turn on that combo... you'd get a lighter fork, with travel adjustment and a tunable open bath damper (you can't do that in current Fox due to the poor wipers on the lowers).
    Check my Site

  23. #23
    "El Whatever"
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    AM... Please sticky on the Service Thread!!!!
    Check my Site

  24. #24
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    That's great, well done.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
    AM... Please sticky on the Service Thread!!!!
    ok, it's in there.

  26. #26

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    didnt you really just make a heavy revelation?

    neat as a novelty i guess.. but i really dont see how this is useful for anything unless you just happen to have a broken pike lower and a broken fox 32 upper, right?

  27. #27
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    but i really dont see how this is useful for anything unless you just happen to have a broken pike lower and a broken fox 32 upper, right?
    Or if like the OP you have a vanilla with a broken damper, a pike, and a 9mm front wheel.

    We all seem to find this pretty interesting. If you don't see why, then go away, it's your loss.

  28. #28
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    the verdict is in

    ive ridden it today on trail, and it was good. the fork behaves like a regular pike. i personally prefer the moco over the fox damping system, but thats just me. it tracked very well, and handled small drops just fine (its on my xc-ish single speed). the left seal didnt do any trouble, so thats one problem solved by itself.
    i now have my midterms, or finals, or whatever you call them. so i dont have much time messing around. but as soon as they are over, ill open the fork, examine the entrails, an probably put enduro seals. after a very dusty ride, there is almost no dust on the stanchions - most of it ended up inside.
    as expected, it wasnt as stiff as the pike. stiffer than the vanilla? maybe a bit, nothing that raised my eyebrow. the preferred damping was much more important for me.
    all in all, for me, thats an easy solution for swapping bike setups (light/heavy), without the damn headset race hassle.

    thanks everyone for the inputs
    alex
    Last edited by brake jack; 07-03-2009 at 10:04 AM.

  29. #29
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    I've nothing to add to this thread but my admiration and to say that Rock Fox does sound kinda cool.

  30. #30
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    Question for those who've made this mods:

    I have a older Talas (04 I believe) with some pretty rank stanchions tubes and access to some pike uppers. Any one know if the Fox internals threaded the same as the Pike uppers?

    edit: ok sorted it out for my self, looks like it should fit. will know for sure in a day or two.
    Last edited by PepperJester; 03-02-2010 at 11:19 AM.

  31. #31
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    Ok so turns out the top caps were not the same size. The carts out of the Talas were bit larger then the ones on the Pike so I ended up using the pike U-Tuns internals. Feels good in the parking lot test.


  32. #32
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    damn dude bravo.

  33. #33
    meow meow
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    lol. rock fox.

  34. #34
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    what about fox 36 uppers on magura wotan lowers, with a rockshox uturn spring, and the magura damping?


    if this is posible, i feel it may be the stiffest, most Frankn fork-y most amazing AM fork since Amazing franken forks startet being bodjed together... in sheds.... by people who are both very brave and slightly mad.

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