Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack - Page 4- Mtbr.com
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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by reinim View Post
    do you think 20mm OD would also work instead of the 19? Canīt find the 19mm anywhere in stock.
    No, 20's will shroud the comp ports. Bad idea. 18 or 17 will work just as long as there at least one 19 on top of the ring shim.

  2. #602
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    Hi everyone

    I've been reading this thread for a while, and it has inspired me to open up my Monarch RT and have a fiddle, but first I have a couple of questions that I hope someone can help with:

    - what affect will it have on my shock if I reduce the IFP pressure from the stock 350psi to 300psi or lower?

    - how much of a difference will it make if I use 2.5w Rockshox oil instead of the standard 3w?
    Last edited by dINGLE485; 11-16-2017 at 12:17 PM.

  3. #603
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    I reduced the IFP pressure and I think it made shock little bit more supple when going over small roots, etc. You cannot go too low, because of the danger of cavitation. However, when I rebuilt my shock last time I went back to higher IFP. I made the decision based on the discussion in Manitou McLeod thread. Yes it is different shock, but it is not too different. If you want suppler shock you need to revalve it. I went with fully linear stack last time (no preload, no pedalling support) and I like it very much.

    Regarding the oil - I have RT3 that requires 7w oil and I have used only original Rockshox oil (because I can get it easily from my LBS).

  4. #604
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    Hi fellows
    Please I need some help with the shim stack of Monarch RL with Rebound tune Medium Compression Tune low CF 80 lbs LF 430.
    Turning is sram part number 11.4118.023.031.
    Shock share same tuning with Monarch XX.
    Unfortunately I lost the order of the shims and I don't know how to put them back in place. A picture would help

  5. #605
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    Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-s-l1600.jpg
    Can anyone tell me the meaning of Monarch RT3 tune letters ?
    these are on one strip, M on orange background, the rest on blue.
    M, L (unlock icon), F, 380 (lock icon)

    is it close to M/M tune? i look for a damper for Giant Reign (>2015), air can looks like 'small'

  6. #606
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    Yes it is Rebound tune Medium, Compression Tune Low, and lock force 380 lbs.
    The M/M tune is Medium Rebound Tune Medium Compression Tune.
    I would not recommend a change, unless you are sure what are you doing, compression is strongly related with your bike leverage ratio.
    Probably if you explain more somebody else might help you.
    Quote Originally Posted by razorjack View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Can anyone tell me the meaning of Monarch RT3 tune letters ?
    these are on one strip, M on orange background, the rest on blue.
    M, L (unlock icon), F, 380 (lock icon)

    is it close to M/M tune? i look for a damper for Giant Reign (>2015), air can looks like 'small'

  7. #607
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    Hi.
    i undestand compression, rebound tunes etc. (and i know i need M/M)
    however i can't decipher settings from that picture.
    so L means Low compression in unlocked position.
    and F ? is it firm setting in 'pedal/trail' (middle) mode ?

    also air can looks like a low volume? and monarchs in Reign looks bigger ('std' volume?)
    https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=re...w=1920&bih=955

    so i'll look for a different damper

  8. #608
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    So it was a rainy weekend and I decided to service my suspension. While undoing the air can oil started foaming up through the adjustment lever. Turned out that the piston shaft somehow unthreaded from the top assembly and slipped out (should there be thread lock out of factory?). Not knowing the mechanics inside and specifically the spring and poppet I tried to thread it back on and while doing that the spring got wedged in between the poppet. Eventually I was able to get the pieces out but in the process they got mangled. So now I need a replacement spring and poppet, I know this normally comes as part of the Tune Assembly kit which can be quite expensive.

    As I'm not changing the tune I was hoping that there was a way just to get the spring and puppet by itself or maybe someone here has extra they are willing to sell? This is for RT3 that came on 2015 Salsa Bucksaw and based on diagrams it looks like 2014 or 2015 model of the shock.

    Also is there a difference between the springs / puppet depending on the tune used?

    Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-2018-11-18-10_36_13-photos.png

    Looking at the tune I think I need this kit:

    11.4118.023.035 - Tune Assy, Monarch RT3 Reb-Low/Comp-Low 3 (CF-60lbs ) soft threshold, LF-320, C1/D1

    Rockshox Monarch RT3 Shim Stack-2018-11-18-10_09_17-photos.png

    Greatly appreciate help with this!

  9. #609
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    I've just re-established the rebound shim order for the rebound shim stack on a monarch rt3 off a 2017 orange four. It wasn't actually labelled on the can as to which tune the shock has but I presume its a D1 MM Soft 320.
    In among my hamfistedness I lost the very final shim which was an 11mm spacer located between the final 19x0.1 shim and the nut. I am presuming that this has no effect as it's smaller than the actual nut and was only effectively acting as a washer for the nut.
    The nut itself has a raised 11mm bezel where it contacts the shim so presumably the stack will function without the final 11mm spacer shim as long as I can tighten the stack down adequately, which I seem to be able to. Presumably this final 11mm shim is only there to maintain the overall stack height. Any wiseness appreciated though!

  10. #610
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    Which side of this diagram is the compression and which is the rebound? Seems to me the left side would be the rebound and the right the compression.

    Quote Originally Posted by arnea View Post


    Recent RT3 from Transition Smuggler.

    BTW, there was no top out bumper in this shock. I had one left over when I changed to seals on my old bike, so I used this.

  11. #611
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    Correct, you can see the nut at the top left so that is the rebound stack.

  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by stultus View Post
    Which side of this diagram is the compression and which is the rebound? Seems to me the left side would be the rebound and the right the compression.
    Yes, this is correct. If you are looking for differences between different tunes then on the rebound side you will increase the number of 0,15 shims on top of ring shim. I.e. left column fourth row from bottom right above the 0,3 + 0,15 you will add extra shim. 2 shims is M, 3 shims is H. I'm running my own H+ which is 4 shims. I'm 100kg and running ~2.3 leverage ratio bike. Calms down the rebound, but keeps it nice and fast on small stuff. You don't want to change anything else on the rebound side.

    Compression side the differences are on the bypass valve tune - i.e. right column rows 2 and 3 from the bottom. Instead of 0,15 and 0,15 I will have 0,2 and 0,2 on medium tune. I don't know how H tune looks like. I personally don't care about the lockout so I changed the compression side shims completely and went with linear stack. Really happy with the result. Big hits are absorbed nicely and I still have very good sensitivity on small stuff.

    But I do not think that changing the shims will help you to get more travel. Definitely the stock L tune will not help you because the bypass valve will not flow enough oil. You could try to remove one of the 0,15 preloaded shims from the main compression stack and see if it changes anything. I.e. remove 0,15 shim from the top on right column. And do small changes. Especially the preloaded shims have really large effect on damping.

  13. #613
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    Hi guys im hoping with your combined knowlage you can help me out.

    Serviceing a monarch plus rc3 on a rose uncle jimbo and i dropped the shim stack but after a great deal of googling an a couple of failed tests i think i have it back in the right order but now the rebound adjuster is crazy hard to turn. it works if grip it with pliers but no strong clicks.

    What did I do wrong? how do i fix it?

  14. #614
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    whats your shocks tune? I'd reassemble it again.

    heres monarch plus rc3 db air ML tune. Base is lever shimstack
    piston base
    comp (L) reb (M) comp
    22x0,15 19x0,15 15x0,15
    22x0,15 19x0,4 ring 15x0,15
    20x0,15 16x0,1 15x0,15
    20x0,1 19x0,15 8x0,4
    20x0,1 19x0,15 8x0,4
    11x0,3 19x0,15 8x0,4
    11x0,3 11x0,2 8x0,4
    11x0,2 8x0,4
    8x0,4

  15. #615
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    this was very close to what i found and used! only diffrence was 3 11m spacers on the rebound side and only 1 on the compression side. what effect will that have?

    The rebuond adjuster being stiff is the main problem i have stripped and re serviced the rebound asembly and it turns fine without any pressure in the IFP but stiffens up when i pump up to 250 psi it is now better than it was but i still think its too stiff.

  16. #616
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    Nvm, I read some of Mullen's older posts in here and from some his feedback in the McLeod tuning post, I'm not even going to bother touching my Deluxe.
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  17. #617
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    Ok ok, I've come around to looking into this a bit more.

    Could someone explain two terms I've read in this thread:

    Progressive Shim Stack or Progressive Compression Tuning

    and

    Pyramid Stacks

    Is there some way of making a shock behave so that it feels like it has no compression damping at the initial stroke, but immediately starts ramping up with lots of compression damping in the mid stroke?
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  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Ok ok, I've come around to looking into this a bit more.

    Could someone explain two terms I've read in this thread:

    Progressive Shim Stack or Progressive Compression Tuning

    and

    Pyramid Stacks

    Is there some way of making a shock behave so that it feels like it has no compression damping at the initial stroke, but immediately starts ramping up with lots of compression damping in the mid stroke?
    Read about speed sensitive and position sensitive. For example overfilled motioncontrol/ifp become position sensitive haha

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Is there some way of making a shock behave so that it feels like it has no compression damping at the initial stroke, but immediately starts ramping up with lots of compression damping in the mid stroke?
    If you are ready to get rid of pedalling support and lockout then yes - go with linear stack where the main compression stack is not preloaded. It is really smooth on small stuff like roots and rocks but also offers good support on bigger hits. If you are not ready to give up lockout then go with McLeod - it has better way of achieving the lockout.

  20. #620
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    I'm 100% ok with losing lockout - I never use it. I would be cool to have the lever add a bit of platform, but if the ramp up in compression is pretty good it wouldn't be necessary.

    Any examples of changing a Deluxe's ML3 tune into a Linear-style stack?

    I'm curious how much the additional or new shims would cost, and if it would be more cost effective to send the shock for a tune vs doing it myself.
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  21. #621
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    I have done it on Monarch RT3. I do not know how different is the Deluxe.

    I'm 100kg, my bike has 115mm rear travel and relatively flat ~2.3 leveraga ratio curve.

    I changed main compression stack and main rebound stack. I did not touch the small compression and rebound stacks.

    Main compression stack is four 22x0.25 shims and one 19x0.15 shim. The last one has probably very little influence.

    You must match the rebound stack to your weight. This is done by adding 19x0.15 mm shims to rebound stack.

    You can get shims from here Revalving Shims

    I recommend to do the tuning by yourself - then you can later easily do some modifications when you don't get it perfect on the first attempt. You need bench vise, IFP adapter, shock pump that can go to 350psi, shaft clamps (you can make your own from some wood), oil and compression balls for bleed hole.

  22. #622
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    Does Racing Suspension Products sell compression balls?

    How do you know where to even start with new shim selection? Can "Shim ReStackor" help a newbie with selecting new shims? It seems like a lot of people just throw in a few more of the thickest/biggest shims.

    Has Rockshox improved their IFP adapter yet or is the go-to still to drill a hole in it and use a spoke to open the valve?

    What shock oil is everyone using during these excursions?
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  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Does Racing Suspension Products sell compression balls?

    How do you know where to even start with new shim selection? Can "Shim ReStackor" help a newbie with selecting new shims? It seems like a lot of people just throw in a few more of the thickest/biggest shims.

    Has Rockshox improved their IFP adapter yet or is the go-to still to drill a hole in it and use a spoke to open the valve?

    What shock oil is everyone using during these excursions?
    For compression balls - find out the Rockshox part number (they have spare parts catalogue in their web under support) and google for it. Not hard to find.

    I started doing small changes. I used Shim Restackor to compare the different stacks. It is very useful. I used the demo version that is limited to 10mm diameter shims and scaled everything down. I.e. 22mm shim to 10mm shim, same with thickness. It was enough for comparison - to see which stack is stiffer, how much preload there is, etc.

    Regarding the adapter - you should just try it and find out. I did not use the spoke method, but I made the hole at the end of adapter tiny bit deeper so the valve is closed earlier. In my case it was sufficient.

    I'm using Rockshox 7wt oil as suggested in the service manual.

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