Old (early 2000's) Rockshox SID rebuild problems- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    6

    Old (early 2000's) Rockshox SID rebuild problems

    Hello, last night I went to service an older Rockshox SID fork for a friend and found that the internals were all covered in this tanish, white colored gunk. I cleaned everything up and put in fresh oil. The problem is that after I put everything back together it only uses half of the travel.

    Any ideas as to what is causing the problem or any places I should look online with helpful information?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,161
    does it feel hydrolocked? if the rebound damper seal is shot, oil will leak down to the lower assembly and do this. this is assuming youre using the proper oil volumes.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    6
    What do you mean by hydrolocked? I didn't notice any oil leaking into the lowers. There were honestly two drops of oil that came out of the fork when I took it apart so I can't tell if there was something wrong with the damper.

    The manual said that I needed 100ml of oil for the right leg and 10ml of redrum for the left. I couldn't get 100ml to fit in the right leg so I'm not quite sure if the manual was accurate or if I did something wrong there.

    Thanks for the quick reply.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    251
    If only 2 drops of oil came out of the damper side and you tried to put 100ml back in, was it really empty before you tried to put oil in?

    Hard to believet that only 2 drops came out and the fork was functioning normally before the service.

    Also, if you tried to put oil into the lowers (100ml) that would account for the locking. That 100ml needs to go into the upper tube.

    Rockshox forks (at least most of them minus the new PIKE) have separate damper/lower oil.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    6
    It was basically entirely empty before I added any fluid. I used a bottle brush to clean any of the old gunk out. The lowers were full of this really gross stuff that was sticking to the lower walls and the fork stanchions.

    The fork really wasn't functioning properly before. It sprung through it's entire travel but it was really sticky and unresponsive. After the rebuild, it goes through the first half of the travel perfectly but then it just stops as if bottoming out.

    I have a feeling that I might have been reading the directions for a different version of the SID. One of them says to use 100ml in the right leg and shows the fluid being poured in the bottom. Other versions of the fork use much less oil in the lowers.

    Is there any way to distinguish between the various versions of the fork? I can't really tell because there aren't any stickers on it any more.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    805
    I once serviced an open bath fork for the first time. Instructions: fill with oil until 35mm from the top. I did. The fork would only compress about 2 inches (6 inch travel fork). Problem: I filled it with the legs fully extended when you needed to fill it to 35mm from the top WITH THE LEGS FULLY COMPRESSED.

    Not sure if this is the case here, but just thought I'd throw in my own experience.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    251
    The damper oil should go in the top and you should be able to put it in before the lower legs are on. That way you can cycle the rebound shaft to make sure you have the oil on both sides of the piston.

    Then install the lowers and put a little bit of oil in the lowers before putting the screws in.

    Hope this helps.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    6
    That sounds just like the process I read for the other version of the SID. I'll try that this weekend. I think that should work perfectly.

    Thanks a bunch for the help. I'll post my results after I complete the rebuild.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,978
    If you got it fixed ignore my post but...

    I am confused. Maybe post a pic of the fork so that it can be identified. I don't think there was ever an open bath Sid. If you don't know what year the fork is how did you select your seal kit. Or by "rebuild" do you mean oil change. I'm with mike87 here, i think you got lower and upper leg oil volumes reversed. The white stuff is a oil/water mix, either means the fork was submerged or the wiper seals are toast and letting water in.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kiwiplague's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,571
    Quote Originally Posted by Ratt View Post

    I am confused. Maybe post a pic of the fork so that it can be identified. I don't think there was ever an open bath Sid.
    I think the SID XC's from around 2000-2001 and labeled as "hydra air" were open bath. Page six of this manual - https://www.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/K...ervice_I_D.pdf - states that they had "plush open bath damping". SID rebuild instructions are on page 26.

    But yeah, a pic of the fork would help no end. It's possible you have a later model SID with a closed damper, in which case, 100mls of oil in the lower would certainly cause the hydro-locking issues. The closed damper forks usually run approx 5 - 20ml of oil in the lowers.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    99
    So I just ran into this issue as well. I have a SID, probably around 2000, could be the 100mm version. Dual air with the lower air valve sticking down lower than the dropout.

    The link above shows explicitly on page 28 to use 100cc in the damper side lower, put in through the bottom hole, but its basically rigid this way. I do see fluid ports in the damper shaft that sticks into the lower so I assumed it would flow through, but doesn't seem to want to. I will try putting it in the top of the upper. Makes more sense actually.

  12. #12
    otb club member
    Reputation: Chris2fur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,755

    Verify Which SID You Have

    You have to be sure which SID you have. Some here are advising to put the damper oil in through the top. You could never do that with a SID XC from 2000 or 2001 because it has air pistons at the top of each leg. There is an earlier and a later style of air valve. The earlier ones are recessed in the top cap and the later ones are normal Schrader valves. Either way, the tops of both legs will have air caps if it is the SID XC Hydra-Air. Don't confuse "Hydra Air" with "Dual Air." The SID XC has air in the upper chamber of both legs, but that does NOT make it "dual air." Dual Air is positive air and negative air in the same fork leg.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Old (early 2000's) Rockshox SID rebuild problems-redsid57.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images   

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    99
    I have schraeder valves on the top and bottom of the left leg (pos and neg). The right side is just damper with a rebound lever on top and another dial (compression?) at the bottom that is essentially a small hex key inserted through the bottom bolt. Externally looks like this, but black and with no decals still on it: Vintage Rockshox SID SL Dual Air Fork: 1 1/8", 80mm Travel, Red, Disc/Rim Brake, Sub 3 Pounds! - Bike Recyclery

  14. #14
    otb club member
    Reputation: Chris2fur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,755
    Quote Originally Posted by cmags View Post
    I have schraeder valves on the top and bottom of the left leg (pos and neg). The right side is just damper with a rebound lever on top and another dial (compression?) at the bottom that is essentially a small hex key inserted through the bottom bolt. Externally looks like this, but black and with no decals still on it: Vintage Rockshox SID SL Dual Air Fork: 1 1/8", 80mm Travel, Red, Disc/Rim Brake, Sub 3 Pounds! - Bike Recyclery
    For an early 2000's SID SL or Race you need 10cc of splash bath oil in each lower leg. You can use 15wt fork oil or you can use something like 5w30 synthetic motor oil which sticks well to the parts. The damping oil is all in the upper leg. You may have the "PURE" damper, which is a bit challenging to do an oil change on. I have some .pdf files that could be helpful.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    99
    Thanks for the info. I was using the instructions on the RWC site but for the XC which it appears mine is not: Enduro Installation for RockShox SID XC®

    So, finally, with hints from you here, and a lot of digging deeper, it appears I may have an '01 SID SL with PURE cartridge. This is the system I've been trying to repair as neither the rebound or climb-it controls were doing anything. I have some 15wt oil I can use for the lowers and the 5wt RS oil i was incorrectly using in the lowers I'll have to recycle into the PURE cartrdige. Everything was pretty clean so I should be OK.

    Thanks again, been wondering WTF this thing was for a long time. It's just been a light pogo stick.

  16. #16
    otb club member
    Reputation: Chris2fur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,755
    Quote Originally Posted by cmags View Post
    Thanks for the info. I was using the instructions on the RWC site but for the XC which it appears mine is not: Enduro Installation for RockShox SID XC®

    So, finally, with hints from you here, and a lot of digging deeper, it appears I may have an '01 SID SL with PURE cartridge. This is the system I've been trying to repair as neither the rebound or climb-it controls were doing anything. I have some 15wt oil I can use for the lowers and the 5wt RS oil i was incorrectly using in the lowers I'll have to recycle into the PURE cartrdige. Everything was pretty clean so I should be OK.

    Thanks again, been wondering WTF this thing was for a long time. It's just been a light pogo stick.
    Sounds good. Let me know if you get stuck on that damper. I have all the pics to do a tutorial but did not get to it.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    99
    Awesome. Looks like I should be set with this: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....0-%20Rev_A.pdf

    Kind of sucks to now know the issue with the thing the whole time was that it probably simply needed a bleed of the PURE system. But now I know more about fork internals.

  18. #18
    otb club member
    Reputation: Chris2fur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,755
    Quote Originally Posted by cmags View Post
    Awesome. Looks like I should be set with this: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....0-%20Rev_A.pdf

    Kind of sucks to now know the issue with the thing the whole time was that it probably simply needed a bleed of the PURE system. But now I know more about fork internals.
    Yep, that will do it.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    544
    Old thread revival, @Chris2fur, if you still have those PURE rebuild pdf's, I have a sid race carbon that I'm gonna have to dig into. Would appreicate if so, I'll search elsewhere in the meantime

  20. #20
    otb club member
    Reputation: Chris2fur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,755
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Rides Bikes View Post
    Old thread revival, @Chris2fur, if you still have those PURE rebuild pdf's, I have a sid race carbon that I'm gonna have to dig into. Would appreicate if so, I'll search elsewhere in the meantime
    Hey Jason. This should cover it: https://www.enduroforkseals.com/item...vice-Guide.pdf

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    544
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur View Post
    Thanks! I had found a similar one to that, but that is more what I was after. Thanks!
    Deflated - buy parts to sell parts to buy more parts.. bikes are my drug of choice

    FATTrailer for the kiddo

Similar Threads

  1. Single pivot maintenance-early 2000's
    By chrismt in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-11-2014, 11:53 AM
  2. Need Damper for 2000 RockShox SID Hyrda Air 100
    By Squashman in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-28-2013, 05:53 PM
  3. Problems with new shimano shadow derailleurs on older 2000 ECDM tandem
    By abikerider in forum Tandem Mountain Bikes
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-05-2013, 06:21 PM
  4. Looking for a 2000 rockshox pro deluxe pullshock. Or parts?
    By xpatenaude in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-08-2012, 11:14 AM
  5. Best Late 90's Early 2000 Cannondale
    By Mrwinkle in forum Cannondale
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 02-15-2011, 04:14 PM

Members who have read this thread: 34

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.