New Dart 2 installation- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1

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    New Dart 2 installation

    Just got a Dart 2 fork. It's going to replace the original fork on my 95 Gary Fisher HKEK...Any tips before I start. It looks pretty long. Will I have to cut it? thanks

  2. #2
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    It looks pretty long. Will I have to cut it? thanks
    Unless you plan on adding spacers, just measure the old fork's steer tube length (with the crown race removed). Use this figure and cut the new steerer...measure twice, cut once.

  3. #3

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    Got the steer tube cut, star nut installed by my lbs...cleaned and lubed the bearings, put everything back together, but I'm getting play in fork. I put the crown race? and bearing on the fork. Am I missing something that centers the crown race and bearings on the fork? I don't remember anything on the old fork...

  4. #4
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    On a threadless headset, your likely missing the compression ring on the upper bearing...assuming your tightening the headset with the stem bolts loose.

  5. #5

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    Great diagram. That helps out a lot. I do have the compression ring, but also some sort of spacer which I don't quite remember where it goes...It did not go on top of the steer tube. But I need to leave the stem bolts loose and tighten the cap top? thanks!

  6. #6
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    A great resource for bike tech is www.sheldonbrown.com some info is dated, but still a great resource. In the meantime, I'll tell you what you need to know right now.

    The spacer (or spacers) you mentioned goes under your stem. It spaces the stem up so that it is approx 4-6mm above the top of the steer tube. This is how the cap and bolt tighten the fork up using the starnut in the steer tube. The spacer can go on top of the stem, some bike co's do this to avoid cutting the steer tube, but the traditional place and my opinion the better looking place, is under the stem.

    If you previously tried cranking down the cap and bolt with the spacer out, or the stem tight, most likely you damaged the starnut, and will need it removed, and a new one installed.

    If it's the original headset, you have ball bearing cages, so get white (lithium) grease at the lbs or auto parts store, and pack the cups/bearings well. After you get lubed, and everything in place, make sure that everything is properly seated (crown race, bearings, seals, comp ring)

    Now you should be ready to tighten the fork. With the stem bolts loose, slowly tighten the bolt in the cap, until there is no vertical play, but the fork still rotates freely. Rotate the fork all the way around repeatedly. If it hangs up, you tightened it a bit too much or something wasn't seated properly (or possibly you damaged the starnut). First, try loosening the bolt a bit. Once you're satisfied with that, Align your stem, and tighten the pinch bolts. Hope this helps, and good luck!
    It's your thing, Do what you want to do

  7. #7

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    Thanks for all the info...Ok, I figured it out. There was a part of the crown race that I did not see...It was covered in gunk. I finally looked at it again, cleaned it, and realized that that part seats the bearings up into the headset. Sooo, I got it off, and remeasured the steer tube...cut it too short!!! Tried to put everything back together, without the spacer, f-d up the star bolt, and now I can't get the crown race off the new fork...aaahhhhh. At least I know how it works now..........................thanks again...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcloud
    Sooo, I got it off, and remeasured the steer tube...cut it too short!!!
    Are you sure the steer tube is too short? Try test fitting it all together without the spacer. Does the steer tube stick out past the stem? or is it below the stem. If it's around 6mm or less from the top of the stem, you're still ok. If it sticks past the stem, you're still OK, you just have to cut it a bit more, or get the correct spacer. Spacers, can be anywhere from 40mm and down.Bike co's usually stack 5mm spacers, but you can get 2.5mm also. How tall is your spacer anyway?

    As for the starnut, it's easy to remove. You can usually use a long socket extension or long steel threaded rod with a hammer, and knock it through the tube. You have a steel steerer, so you don't have to be as careful as you would with aluminum. It's usually easier to knock it out from the top through the bottom, but if its already severely bent upwards from cranking on it, you can probably go from bottom to top because its a shorter distance, and its already mangled (been there done that).

    I'll give you any help you need, you can PM me. If you want to learn to install your own starnut its simple, and nashbar sells a cheap tool that will get the job done. Maybe your lbs will take pity on you and do it for free if you buy a new starnut.

    If the steerer is too short, let me know what the length is.
    It's your thing, Do what you want to do

  9. #9
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    I re-read this thread, and I think I see what part of your issue is...
    Did you first seat the crown race so that it was flat and right on the crown at the bottom of the steer tube? If not, that's where your trouble started.

    Before you do anything, you need to make sure that the steer tube is actually too short. To do this, the crown race must first be properly seated. I recommend letting the lbs do this if it's not.

    If the race is seated, then determine whether it's too short. If, you are SURE that it's too short, have the lbs remove the crown race, because if you damage it, then you have to buy a new headset, and pay for install, etc because I doubt you'll find a replacement race for a headset that old. Now that I think about it, are you sure that your original headset was Threadless? Did your old fork have threads at the top? If so, you need a 1&1/8" threadless headset installed anyway. They aren't interchangeable.
    It's your thing, Do what you want to do

  10. #10

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    Everythings all good now...I got a smaller spacer, seated everything correctly. The threads are all good, it's all together, and feeling good. thanks for all the advice. It's all about patience, and getting all the old stuff off, everything cleaned, and take your time...thanks again!

  11. #11
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    Good deal, glad you got it worked out.
    It's your thing, Do what you want to do

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    On a threadless headset, your likely missing the compression ring on the upper bearing...assuming your tightening the headset with the stem bolts loose.
    Arrggh! I wish I found this about 2 hrs ago! Just spend way too much time searching for info on this topic. This answers a lot of my questions. Thanks!

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