The Marzocchi Roco 2006-2011 WC/ Coil R Coil rebuild thread- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    The Marzocchi Roco 2006-2011 WC/ Coil R Coil rebuild thread

    Hi all!

    Well After a long time, i have finally got around to creating another rebuild guide, this time for a Marzocchi Roco

    The model used in the guide is a 2011 Marzocchi Roco WC Coil, and these are the same as the 2006-2010 Roco WC's, only difference being the 06 came with a steel shaft while the rest have Alloy shafts.

    The guide should also provide a solid foundation for the TST-R and will work for the Roco Coil R with external IFP Chamber, only difference is that the HSCV is not present.

    The great thing about the Roco's, is that they are designed to be user rebuildable, even though Marzocchi Provides very poor to no documentation of the process, hence why i created this guide.

    Download Link:
    ======================================
    Marzocchi Roco WC Coil Rebuild Guide
    ======================================

    Please leave your experience on how it went and i welcome any constructive criticism

    Enjoy !

  2. #2
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    Great guide man. Quick question on the Roco. I bought a WC used and it has a nasty knocking sound. I can feel it in the handlebars. It isn't DU bushings or the linkage bearings. I can swap out to my spare Vivid, and the knocking goes away. Other than that, the shock works fine. Any idea what it could be?

  3. #3
    I dig trails!
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    I say it every time you post one of these step-by-steps up.

    You rock!

    Thanks for you work, you bring quality to these forums.

    P

  4. #4
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    Too bad you can't get parts. I've had my TST-R Coil sitting at Push for the last 6 months. They have been waiting on a part for the TST. No wonder why Push doesn't have anything to do with Marzocchi anymore. Why the crappy customer service.

    Will never buy another Marz product.

    Chris

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92SE-R
    Great guide man. Quick question on the Roco. I bought a WC used and it has a nasty knocking sound. I can feel it in the handlebars. It isn't DU bushings or the linkage bearings. I can swap out to my spare Vivid, and the knocking goes away. Other than that, the shock works fine. Any idea what it could be?
    Cheers for the props mate
    I can think of a couple of things that may be causing it

    1- You may not have enough pressure in the boost valve, make sure its pumped up between 175-210 psi, others they will knock, this is one of the characteristics of the Roco's

    2- The o-ring that holds the HSCV in place has worn out, and is causing the HSCV to knock when oil is forced through it, try replacing the o-ring

    3- Your IFP is set a a to shallow/ deep depth and is knocking while the shock is cycling, try re adjusting the depth between 35mm-40mm and see how that goes

    Hope that helps!
    Let us know

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris9702l
    Too bad you can't get parts. I've had my TST-R Coil sitting at Push for the last 6 months. They have been waiting on a part for the TST. No wonder why Push doesn't have anything to do with Marzocchi anymore. Why the crappy customer service.

    Will never buy another Marz product.

    Chris
    Do you know what part it is? If its an seal kit, they can easily be found, or even try ringing marz up to order the part directly then send it to push, most experiences ive had we a third part has to order something, they try twice and forget, but still, i dont know so im not bashing just trying to offer help

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    I say it every time you post one of these step-by-steps up.

    You rock!

    Thanks for you work, you bring quality to these forums.

    P
    Cheers Mr.P!
    Comments like this are what keep me making them

  8. #8
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    awesome info man. loved your previous guides as well. might have to try my hand at tearing this apart and looking specifically at the things you mentioned.

  9. #9
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    Hi mate
    Excellent write up, thanks!
    I wanted to know. I just bought an Azonic frame with this 2010 rear coil shock installed. It had only seen one race (the entire bike) and when I bought it, noticed the rebound damper has zero effect and when I pump the small chamber with air, it never seems to be there afterwards. Very weird. It wont seem to hold air for some reason and I cant get any damper resistance at all no matter what its dialed in to.

    What would it be? The shock works fine other than that and is fairly well new. I dont want to send it back to UK where it was bought from just for something simple....

    Any advice is appreciated

    Wes

  10. #10
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    Hi Wes
    Hmm that is an interesting case
    First, i would give the thing a complete tear down and rebuild, while your at it, check to see if the shim stack is correct, you can cross reference what the shims are supposed to be and the order are by the chart thats at the bottom of the guide

    Try that first and let me know how it goes!
    Cheers!

  11. #11
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    Some useful info on this page and a couple of videos at the bottom of this page.

  12. #12
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    Just finished rebuilding my 2010 roco WC. It was squeaking before and it is still squeaking after the rebuild.
    Is there a reason why you don't hook up a syringe to the bleed screw near the reservoir?
    In the Windwave roco rc rebuild, they use this method and are you sure your method gets all the air out?

    The manual has good, clear instructions otherwise.

  13. #13
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    THIS IS FANTASTIC Nick_M2R!!! How do we get this thread to the "STICKIES" part of this whole thread? Fabulous work!!! Cheers

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by crawler7000
    Just finished rebuilding my 2010 roco WC. It was squeaking before and it is still squeaking after the rebuild.
    Is there a reason why you don't hook up a syringe to the bleed screw near the reservoir?
    In the Windwave roco rc rebuild, they use this method and are you sure your method gets all the air out?

    The manual has good, clear instructions otherwise.
    The reason being is that the bleed hole is not smooth, but is threaded, you need a specific syringe that has a threaded tip to bleed it this way, and was why i didnt cover it in my guide yet.

    I have recently found a syringe that will work with the thread tip, and will be updating my guide to show it very soon. For now, the method detailed works fine if you take your time

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Cheers for the props mate
    I can think of a couple of things that may be causing it

    1- You may not have enough pressure in the boost valve, make sure its pumped up between 175-210 psi, others they will knock, this is one of the characteristics of the Roco's

    Hope that helps!
    Let us know
    In 99% this is the case.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    You may not have enough pressure in the boost valve, make sure its pumped up between 175-210 psi, others they will knock, this is one of the characteristics of the Roco's
    I have a TST R that refuses to hold air in the chamber. When I pump it up to about 150 psi, the air is released when I undo the valve. No matter how much air I put into the chamber the needle on the gauge does not want to go past 150, I'm guessing it needs a rebuild.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R
    Cheers for the props mate
    I can think of a couple of things that may be causing it

    1- You may not have enough pressure in the boost valve, make sure its pumped up between 175-210 psi, others they will knock, this is one of the characteristics of the Roco's

    2- The o-ring that holds the HSCV in place has worn out, and is causing the HSCV to knock when oil is forced through it, try replacing the o-ring

    3- Your IFP is set a a to shallow/ deep depth and is knocking while the shock is cycling, try re adjusting the depth between 35mm-40mm and see how that goes

    Hope that helps!
    Let us know
    Hello Nick
    thanks for your good work

    before I start to disassemble my roco, can you confirm that the IFP depth of 35-40mm is also the good measurement for a 9.5" eye to eye roco?

    by the way, my external compression adjustment knob is blocked, and can't be turned + or -. Do you have an idea of what that's coming of?
    P.S: my shock is knocking too and never been disassembled...

    Thanks a lot mate !

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehrhard

    by the way, my external compression adjustment knob is blocked, and can't be turned + or -. Do you have an idea of what that's coming of?

    My WC is doing the same thing. Can't rotate compression knob in either direction.

    Thanks for this guide Nick! Time to rip the Roco apart and see what's going on...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehrhard
    Hello Nick
    thanks for your good work

    before I start to disassemble my roco, can you confirm that the IFP depth of 35-40mm is also the good measurement for a 9.5" eye to eye roco?

    by the way, my external compression adjustment knob is blocked, and can't be turned + or -. Do you have an idea of what that's coming of?
    P.S: my shock is knocking too and never been disassembled...

    Thanks a lot mate !
    Hi mate!

    Yes 35-40mm is the depth for all forms of roco's, it allows the rider to tune the shock stroke more

    With the compression valve, try turning it with a set of multigrips, it may have just got stuck through use, when you disassemble it, try the same thing by using the adjuster back on the adjustment needle (you will see where it goes when you take the shock apart) and with a 10mm spanner on the nut at the other end of the HSCV

    Let me know how it goes guys, let me know if it does not work and we will try to wokr out another work around

  20. #20
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    I tried your suggestion last night Nick. The HSCV is totally stuck. I'm hesitant to apply any more force as it feels like I'll snap the adjustment needle like a twig.Will removing the nut from the HSCV gain me access into the moving bits?

    As I recall, I was playing with this adjustment in my driveway. I had turned the compression all the way up (full +) and left it there. On my next trail ride I took my first drop and instantly realized my mistake. The roco was nearly locked up and I popped my rear tire. thats when I tried to turn my compression down and I found it stuck. Oh well. I'll have to play with it later, we have guests over for the holidays and I'm getting the evil death stare from the wife as I obsess about my bike...

  21. #21
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    I just purchased a used Roco TST R. It's my first coil shock and it's my first Marz product.

    I just noticed that when I compressed the shock with my hands, oil seems to be leaking out of the rebound lever. I'm currently in MD now and will fly back to the Philippines in a week.

    Is this a serious issue? We don't have Marz service centers in the PH. Bummed that I may have gotten a lemon.

  22. #22
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    Exploded Diagrams for the 2009 & 2010 Roco Coil models can be found at the bottom of the following pages.

    2009: http://www.marzocchi.ru/docs/forkmaps/forksmaps2009/

    2010: http://www.marzocchi.ru/docs/forkmaps/forksmaps2010/

  23. #23
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    You wouldn't happen to know the sizes and number of shims on the HSCV from factory? Mines been Push tuned and as I've still got the factory shims I fancied having a play around to see what happens.

    Also, with regards to bleeding the shock, I rebuild it fully submerged in oil, I use a 6 pint plastic milk bottle with an opening cut in the side, fits a 240mm length shock in perfect, the piggy back fits in the space under the bottles handle, there's enough room to cycle the main piston to purge any air out. (I'll post a pic up if this doesn't make sense)

    It takes just about a litre of oil to complete submerge the shock, and if you empty the dirty oil out first and give the shock a good clean the oil can go back in the bottle when your done, what is good is you can take the top off the milk bottle when your done and pour it straight back into a funnel into the oil bottle - with less chance of pouring it all over the floor.

    My method is to put the shock into the oil bath with the piston shaft end cap undone, both bleed screws removed, and the ifp chamber cap removed.

    Then cycle the main piston until air bubbles stop appearing

    Then tighten the shaft end cap - cycle the shock again, no bubbles - put the external bleed screw back in (Whilst submerged)

    Cycle again, return to full extension, then carefully remove the shock from the oil bath

    Check the depth of the ifp, if its ok put some oil in the ifp chamber and slowly and carefully cycle to make sure no air has entered.

    Check the ifp depth again one last time and if its all good, re-fit the bleed screw into the ifp, pour out the oil from the chamber and continue with the rebuild, worked perfect for me last time and hopefully it'll work again tonight!

    Let me know what you think.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oli h View Post
    You wouldn't happen to know the sizes and number of shims on the HSCV from factory? Mines been Push tuned and as I've still got the factory shims I fancied having a play around to see what happens.

    Also, with regards to bleeding the shock, I rebuild it fully submerged in oil, I use a 6 pint plastic milk bottle with an opening cut in the side, fits a 240mm length shock in perfect, the piggy back fits in the space under the bottles handle, there's enough room to cycle the main piston to purge any air out. (I'll post a pic up if this doesn't make sense)

    It takes just about a litre of oil to complete submerge the shock, and if you empty the dirty oil out first and give the shock a good clean the oil can go back in the bottle when your done, what is good is you can take the top off the milk bottle when your done and pour it straight back into a funnel into the oil bottle - with less chance of pouring it all over the floor.

    My method is to put the shock into the oil bath with the piston shaft end cap undone, both bleed screws removed, and the ifp chamber cap removed.

    Then cycle the main piston until air bubbles stop appearing

    Then tighten the shaft end cap - cycle the shock again, no bubbles - put the external bleed screw back in (Whilst submerged)

    Cycle again, return to full extension, then carefully remove the shock from the oil bath

    Check the depth of the ifp, if its ok put some oil in the ifp chamber and slowly and carefully cycle to make sure no air has entered.

    Check the ifp depth again one last time and if its all good, re-fit the bleed screw into the ifp, pour out the oil from the chamber and continue with the rebuild, worked perfect for me last time and hopefully it'll work again tonight!

    Let me know what you think.
    That's the "proper" method, but uses a lot of oil and if you are using a custom viscosity you can't put it back in the bottle.

    I use two cylinders attached to the main body and reservoir and remove air from main piston assembly and IFP while installing, then purge any air left over using the IFP bleed screw. No air. The trick is to properly remove the air in the main piston assembly as air gets trapped in the rebound needle area, the shims and the piston holes. This way I use VERY little oil per rebuild.

  25. #25
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    Good call on the custom viscosity! Hadn't thought of that!

    I've tried doing it with two make shift cylinders, I'd used a SIS Rego bottle on the main chamber and something else on the reservoir, I didn't do very well, would have been better if I'd have taped the Rego bottle to the main chamber but as the bottle top was a tight fit I thought I'd get away with it, end result - oil slowly leaked between the bottle and chamber over the vice and onto the shed floor, gave up and went hunting for a container big enough for the shock to fit that didn't take a gallon of oil to fill.

    Going to try 5wt as per Windwave and Nick's rebuild guides, for some reason I think I had used 2.5wt last time, not sure where I'd got that from?

  26. #26
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    Hi!

    First of, excellent guide. Do you (or anyone else for that matter) if the TST-R makes it a lot harder to disamble/resamble that with the HSCV valve? Exploded views show that the TST contains more parts than the HSCV valve. Or do these parts come out as one?
    Any thoughts?

    Best regards
    Fredrik

  27. #27
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    I just rebuilt mine using the guide. Let me take this opportunity to say that Nick_M2R simply ROCKS!!!!!!! I'm so pleased!
    I had oil in the air that was causing confused performance. Also, I went with 5wt oil as I wanted faster rebound and lighter compression damping. Gosh I'm happy.
    THANK YOU !!!!

  28. #28
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    heinejoe: 5 wt will INCREASE rebound and compression damping (slow it down). Stock fluid is 3wt.

    Oli h: I use 5 wt and it feels much better than the 3 wt, mind you my rebound shim stack has been modified.

    Mani: the parts come off as one. If you're doing an oil change you don't need to disassemble the compression circuit. You only need to disassemble to change the piggyback to bridge o-ring, the compression adjuster o-ring and if you want to make shim stack changes (in the case of the WC).

  29. #29
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    The stuff I drained out seemed thicker. It was stuff that looked similar to maybe a Fox fluid in viscosity. Perhaps 7.5wt or ??

    Since I like the 5wt, I am now going to have to find some 3wt and perhaps 2.5wt oil. Nobody locally can help with that... Time to shop the web.

    I also used nitrogen to charge the shock at 185psi. I had the bottle and equip for my dirt bikes so why not?!?!

    Thanks you for the input, tacubaya!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by heinejoe View Post
    The stuff I drained out seemed thicker. It was stuff that looked similar to maybe a Fox fluid in viscosity. Perhaps 7.5wt or ??

    Since I like the 5wt, I am now going to have to find some 3wt and perhaps 2.5wt oil. Nobody locally can help with that... Time to shop the web.

    I also used nitrogen to charge the shock at 185psi. I had the bottle and equip for my dirt bikes so why not?!?!

    Thanks you for the input, tacubaya!
    No problem.

    I recommend this:

    Racing Shock Fluid - $14.99 : Maxima Racing USA, - Overkill

  31. #31
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    This is probably a total noob question but how do you get the spring off of the shock to get to the internals? I have a few ideas as to how to do this but I want to use the easiest and safest way.

  32. #32
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    Fussing with my '08-ish Roco coil R and hoping someone can confirm I'm heading in the right direction (or correct me otherwise)...

    Symptom: Significant oil leak from the rebound adjuster knob. (I was riding in very muddy/wet conditions for a few days before the leak developed).

    My best guess: damaged o-ring on the rebound needle. There are no seals in the rebound adjuster assembly, right? it doesn't seem to unthread (I feel resistance at either end of travel) so I'm assuming that I should leave the rebound adjuster detent/ball/spring assembly in the eyelet, and focus on the o-ring on the needle?

    Any other thoughts?

    I've got the shock apart on the bench but I'm having a heck of a time getting the eyelet off. I made a shaft holder for the vice using scrap pine, which was probably a mistake since it lets the shaft rotate, even after cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. Going to give it another go tomorrow after I find a piece of scrap hardwood.

    Any pointers appreciated!

    Cheers,

    Rob

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by robselina View Post
    Fussing with my '08-ish Roco coil R and hoping someone can confirm I'm heading in the right direction (or correct me otherwise)...

    Symptom: Significant oil leak from the rebound adjuster knob. (I was riding in very muddy/wet conditions for a few days before the leak developed).

    My best guess: damaged o-ring on the rebound needle. There are no seals in the rebound adjuster assembly, right? it doesn't seem to unthread (I feel resistance at either end of travel) so I'm assuming that I should leave the rebound adjuster detent/ball/spring assembly in the eyelet, and focus on the o-ring on the needle?

    Any other thoughts?

    I've got the shock apart on the bench but I'm having a heck of a time getting the eyelet off. I made a shaft holder for the vice using scrap pine, which was probably a mistake since it lets the shaft rotate, even after cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. Going to give it another go tomorrow after I find a piece of scrap hardwood.

    Any pointers appreciated!

    Cheers,

    Rob
    Me too. I'm leaking from my rebound knob every time I make a click of adjustment but only for that one movement.

    Any help?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by medardlefevre View Post
    Me too. I'm leaking from my rebound knob every time I make a click of adjustment but only for that one movement.

    Any help?
    I'm trying to remember how I solved this. I think the main problem was indeed that o-ring on the rebound needle - it had a small cut and there was muddy crud that had made it behind the detent/spring assy that was also stopping it from sealing correctly.I did have to take that all apart, getting the eyelet off the shaft. It was a $0.10 o-ring + patience fix though!

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by robselina View Post
    I'm trying to remember how I solved this. I think the main problem was indeed that o-ring on the rebound needle - it had a small cut and there was muddy crud that had made it behind the detent/spring assy that was also stopping it from sealing correctly.I did have to take that all apart, getting the eyelet off the shaft. It was a $0.10 o-ring + patience fix though!
    That's what I was thinking. I'm planning on getting a seal kit and doing a full service to it soon. I'm hoping that it's the same issue you had. Thanks for the response

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_M2R View Post
    Hi all!

    Well After a long time, i have finally got around to creating another rebuild guide, this time for a Marzocchi Roco

    The model used in the guide is a 2011 Marzocchi Roco WC Coil, and these are the same as the 2006-2010 Roco WC's, only difference being the 06 came with a steel shaft while the rest have Alloy shafts.

    The guide should also provide a solid foundation for the TST-R and will work for the Roco Coil R with external IFP Chamber, only difference is that the HSCV is not present.

    The great thing about the Roco's, is that they are designed to be user rebuildable, even though Marzocchi Provides very poor to no documentation of the process, hence why i created this guide.

    Download Link:
    ======================================
    Marzocchi Roco WC Coil Rebuild Guide
    ======================================

    Please leave your experience on how it went and i welcome any constructive criticism

    Enjoy !
    Hello Mr. Nick although nearly a decade has passed from the time you posted this guide but indeed & first of all i have to thank you soooo much your guid helped me a lot

    im a bike mechanic in Iran !! recentlly a costumer brought a Marzocchi ROCO RC ( with out piggy back ) and its main oil seal leaked


    I havnt still reached to the point where i have to get the seal out

    If you had time i would be very pleased if you took a glance at the topic about that shock

    https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...s-1100197.html

    i was not certain about the IFP depth of that shock & Mr. Dougal helped me a lot with that case

    in your gud Mr. Nick you said maybe in another giud you would cover the procedure for changing that main oil seal between the cap & the shaft if you did so could you please mention a link to that guid as well ?


    Thank you very much......

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