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  1. #1
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    Marathon S Owners ?'s

    Hey, just traded a Marathon SL (85) for an S (105) and have some setup questions:

    1.) Everyone talks about oil height. Just to be sure, is this when the stanchions are fully compressed and the height referenced is between the top of the oil and top of the stanchion tubes?

    2.) Does anyone know the volumes of oil needed in this fork in cc's or mL (rather than oil height)? I put in ~58mL in each leg. Something tells me that this isn't enough

    3.) That something is the fact that the ETA knob doesn't lock down the fork. I messed with a set screw in the pumping rod when I changed oil. But my messing made the ETA knob not turn. I fixed that, but no lockdown anymore, so I think it is the oil level.

    4.) There are some threads about people running the stock coil in the ETA leg and no coil in the right leg and pumping up to 50 psi. I have seen smaller riders do this, but how bout someone who is 180-190? How bad of an idea is that for my size ~30-35 psi would feel about right.

    5.) It seems to get a bit sticky when it approaches the top end of its travel...is this an oil thing too? For the record, when I compress the stanchions with all the internals out, it sticks hard at the top of the travel and takes some wrestling to unhook it.

    Love the advice here. Thanks

  2. #2
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    Hey, just traded a Marathon SL (85) for an S (105) and have some setup questions:

    1.) Everyone talks about oil height. Just to be sure, is this when the stanchions are fully compressed and the height referenced is between the top of the oil and top of the stanchion tubes?
    Check BikerX40's signature and then check his webpage. I think it's just like you describe but I'm not sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    2.) Does anyone know the volumes of oil needed in this fork in cc's or mL (rather than oil height)? I put in ~58mL in each leg. Something tells me that this isn't enough
    You adjust better the fork from mm of oil height from the top of the crown to the top of the oil. Cycle the rods several times as those can get tricky ti fill with oil. Ride around the blick (including some roughs) and check for oil level again.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    3.) That something is the fact that the ETA knob doesn't lock down the fork. I messed with a set screw in the pumping rod when I changed oil. But my messing made the ETA knob not turn. I fixed that, but no lockdown anymore, so I think it is the oil level.
    Yeah too low oil level can make the ETA not to engage. Check your oil level again If you overfill it, the fork will not sink much into its travel when ETA is engaged.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    4.) There are some threads about people running the stock coil in the ETA leg and no coil in the right leg and pumping up to 50 psi. I have seen smaller riders do this, but how bout someone who is 180-190? How bad of an idea is that for my size ~30-35 psi would feel about right.
    When you put a lot of pressure on that side your ride will get a bit harsh and too much of progressive (read: maybe you'll not get full travel). Coil on both sides is better for you. The weight savings are minimal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    5.) It seems to get a bit sticky when it approaches the top end of its travel...is this an oil thing too? For the record, when I compress the stanchions with all the internals out, it sticks hard at the top of the travel and takes some wrestling to unhook it.

    Love the advice here. Thanks
    Maybe your bushings are still too tight. As you don't use the final end of the travel that much, the bushings don't get worn in that part. I'm guessing with this one though.
    Check my Site

  3. #3
    Now with 3 more inches!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp2003
    Check BikerX40's signature and then check his webpage. I think it's just like you describe but I'm not sure.
    Warp can investigate this further this weekend! I'm about to do my first oil change on an '04 S. Hoping he can assist me.

  4. #4
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigerdog
    Warp can investigate this further this weekend! I'm about to do my first oil change on an '04 S. Hoping he can assist me.
    You count on it!!!!

    Too bad HSCV cartridges can't be teared open... but if you have a hacksaw and JB Weld we can try!!
    Check my Site

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    Hey, just traded a Marathon SL (85) for an S (105) and have some setup questions:

    1.) Everyone talks about oil height. Just to be sure, is this when the stanchions are fully compressed and the height referenced is between the top of the oil and top of the stanchion tubes?

    2.) Does anyone know the volumes of oil needed in this fork in cc's or mL (rather than oil height)? I put in ~58mL in each leg. Something tells me that this isn't enough

    3.) That something is the fact that the ETA knob doesn't lock down the fork. I messed with a set screw in the pumping rod when I changed oil. But my messing made the ETA knob not turn. I fixed that, but no lockdown anymore, so I think it is the oil level.

    4.) There are some threads about people running the stock coil in the ETA leg and no coil in the right leg and pumping up to 50 psi. I have seen smaller riders do this, but how bout someone who is 180-190? How bad of an idea is that for my size ~30-35 psi would feel about right.

    5.) It seems to get a bit sticky when it approaches the top end of its travel...is this an oil thing too? For the record, when I compress the stanchions with all the internals out, it sticks hard at the top of the travel and takes some wrestling to unhook it.

    Love the advice here. Thanks

    With respect to #5, is that with the hub attatched? I have found hubs to vary on the width. At full compression it will stick depending on how off the hub is. If it sticks without the hub, the bushings might be tight from lack of exercise at full travel.

  6. #6
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    I had the same thing as # 5. The fork would lock itself up when I fully compressed it, with all the internals out. Get yourself a jar of Slick Honey and glob the insides between the upper and lower seals before you put the legs back on. Then coat the legs before evey ride, work it in before riding and wipr it off. They will break in and eventually will be as smooth as butta!!!
    I used BikerX40's advice. Excellent, to the point information. And a good guy to boot!
    I am 210 lbs and I'm using 50mm of oil(measured from the top, fully compressed) and 15 lbs of air.

    Here are some helpful links:

    http://myweb.cableone.net/rkindig/marz_marathon_s.html
    http://www.daevh.co.uk/bike/service/z1.htm
    http://www.indycyclespecialist.com/tech_info.htm
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...=2004+marathon
    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id27.html
    http://www.mountainbike.co.nz/people.../frameset.html

    Good luck
    jeff

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    1.) Everyone talks about oil height. Just to be sure, is this when the stanchions are fully compressed and the height referenced is between the top of the oil and top of the stanchion tubes?
    Yes. Lower legs compressed, spring(s) removed, and damper rod fully compressed into the fork. Oil height is measured from the top thread inside the stanchion down to the oil inside the leg. Check out my web site in my signature for pictures of this.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    2.) Does anyone know the volumes of oil needed in this fork in cc's or mL (rather than oil height)? I put in ~58mL in each leg. Something tells me that this isn't enough
    That's way too low. CC's and mL's are the same. You need about 135-145cc's in each leg, assuming that you fully purged the oil out of the damper by cycling it and letting it drain (the ETA side too), otherwise, you'll have too much oil in the legs and not attain full travel. Try 135cc's if you're not getting full travel, and work your way up to 145cc's if you're having trouble with excessive bottoming.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    3.) That something is the fact that the ETA knob doesn't lock down the fork. I messed with a set screw in the pumping rod when I changed oil. But my messing made the ETA knob not turn. I fixed that, but no lockdown anymore, so I think it is the oil level.
    Yes, it's due to lack of oil. The 135-145cc's will fix the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    4.) There are some threads about people running the stock coil in the ETA leg and no coil in the right leg and pumping up to 50 psi. I have seen smaller riders do this, but how bout someone who is 180-190? How bad of an idea is that for my size ~30-35 psi would feel about right.
    Bad idea. Due to the fact that this fork doens't have a negative spring, the fork will feel very notchy around the sag point (stiction), and blow through its mid-stroke and bottom out a lot. This tuning suggestion was for light weight riders under 150 lbs or so. I'm 165lbs, and I needed about 35-40 psi to make it work, and it still felt [email protected] compared to the dual coil setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mollydog1976
    5.) It seems to get a bit sticky when it approaches the top end of its travel...is this an oil thing too? For the record, when I compress the stanchions with all the internals out, it sticks hard at the top of the travel and takes some wrestling to unhook it.
    Make sure that you're using stock oil (Golden Spectro) and not something with 'seal swellers'. Also, the correct oil height will help. My damper rods are pretty notchy, but you can't really feel it while pushing down the assembled fork. Is the fork fully broken in?

    Anyway, good luck, and I hope that helps. Everything that you never wanted to know about that fork is on my site. Check out the FAQ section too.
    I stopped driving my bike into my garage - I'm now protected with Roof Rack Ranger app for my iPhone.

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