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Thread: Manitou Mattoc

  1. #4101
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    I have done service to my CRC mattoc, bought this Summer it has been great for bike parks, but it had a good amount of stinction off the top, not smooth in the first 2 cm (at least compared to my dvo diamond).
    I opened it and found that it was completely dry, not a single drop came out.
    I know for sure that lowers oil didn't migrate into damper because i can get full travel without issues.

    Put 7 cc per side of supergliss 100k now it is working very smooth.

    I found a spacer on the rebound rod, similar to the one on the air side but bigger.
    It isn't present on the service video and i didn't have it on my old mattoc.
    Do you know why they put it?

  2. #4102
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    Just wanted to lower my fork.
    The mattoc is a breeze to work with.
    Not so much my f-ing X-tools torque wrench.

    Can this be solved with a heatgun, guessing it has red-loctite, and a new shaft foot damper?

    Its the internal 8mm hex bolt that has sheared of.
    Or do I need a new "ZUGSTUFE MANITOU MATTOC PRO 26/27.5 BOOST 141-30996-K003""

    https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/shaft-foot-damper-expert-comp-manitou.html


    Manitou Mattoc-mattoc_rip.jpg

    Manitou Mattoc-mattoc_rip_2.png
    Last edited by Langestrom; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:32 AM.

  3. #4103
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    Here is my new (lightly used 17) Mattoc Pro 120mm 29+ fork. Stripped the stock decals and added these Slik graphics in stealth black for a more understated look on the front end of my Stache build. Wondering if I should open it up and check the fluid levels before mounting it? It has around 100 hours on, so maybe ride it for a season then open it. Can't wait to dial it in and finally see/feel how a 34mm fork performs on the trail!


    https://www.slikgraphics.com/collect...-pro-decal-kit
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mattoc-2018-11-17-19.03.00.jpg  

    Manitou Mattoc-2018-11-17-19.48.56.jpg  

    Manitou Mattoc-2018-11-17-19.41.54.jpg  

    17 Stache 29+
    17 Moto Ti gravel
    14 GT Zaskar 100 9r
    15 Moto NT fat & 27.5+

  4. #4104
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    I would definitely service the lowers after 100 hours when the fork is already on the table.

  5. #4105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langestrom View Post
    Just wanted to lower my fork.
    The mattoc is a breeze to work with.
    Not so much my f-ing X-tools torque wrench.

    Can this be solved with a heatgun, guessing it has red-loctite, and a new shaft foot damper?

    Its the internal 8mm hex bolt that has sheared of.
    Or do I need a new "ZUGSTUFE MANITOU MATTOC PRO 26/27.5 BOOST 141-30996-K003""

    https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/shaft-foot-damper-expert-comp-manitou.html


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    That is the pro model. The pro shaft foot has smaller threads than the expert/comp version.

    Did you get the right one?

  6. #4106
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Here is my new (lightly used 17) Mattoc Pro 120mm 29+ fork. Stripped the stock decals and added these Slik graphics in stealth black for a more understated look on the front end of my Stache build. Wondering if I should open it up and check the fluid levels before mounting it? It has around 100 hours on, so maybe ride it for a season then open it. Can't wait to dial it in and finally see/feel how a 34mm fork performs on the trail!


    https://www.slikgraphics.com/collect...-pro-decal-kit
    Damn that decal kit looks good. I may be copying that color scheme for mine.

    And yes on the oil change (lowers at a minimum)

  7. #4107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    That is the pro model. The pro shaft foot has smaller threads than the expert/comp version.

    Did you get the right one?
    Yes, I found the right one. Placed a order yesterday (Swedish time :P).
    Now I just have to figure out how to swap the shaft foot.

  8. #4108
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    I recently completed bike build and for some reason i thought it would be a good idea to go with pike. 2018 rc3 1600, 27.5. Been fox fork user for past 10 years and thought i would try something else. No matter what i do, i cant make the fork to feel right. Doing some research i found that basically the damper is crap. What i also found was great reviews of mattoc. Seriously considering to sell pike and get mattock.i am in us and looks like not much support here. I can do basic maitenance of lowers oil change providing that the steps are similar to other forks, but is there a service place in the us for more complicated stuff. Also please tell me mattoc is better than pike. Thinking mattoc pro version. I am tottaly dissapointed with pike.

  9. #4109
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    I recently completed bike build and for some reason i thought it would be a good idea to go with pike. 2018 rc3 1600, 27.5. Been fox fork user for past 10 years and thought i would try something else. No matter what i do, i cant make the fork to feel right. Doing some research i found that basically the damper is crap. What i also found was great reviews of mattoc. Seriously considering to sell pike and get mattock.i am in us and looks like not much support here. I can do basic maitenance of lowers oil change providing that the steps are similar to other forks, but is there a service place in the us for more complicated stuff. Also please tell me mattoc is better than pike. Thinking mattoc pro version. I am tottaly dissapointed with pike.
    If you can change the oil in the lowers of other forks, you can more or less service the mattoc yourself, its an open bath fork meaning theres no complicated damper cartridge, you just need to take your time and you're pretty safe. The video below is the oil change service guide for the mattoc, very easy.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e81ZjaRq3XU

  10. #4110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langestrom View Post
    Yes, I found the right one. Placed a order yesterday (Swedish time :P).
    Now I just have to figure out how to swap the shaft foot.
    A 10mm shaft clamp and you'll be sorted.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  11. #4111
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    Mattoc Problems

    So I have had a mattoc for 3 years now and it's been great...Until it hasn't.
    My Mattoc Pro was excellent, but didn't match bike colour scheme, so a red Pro 2 came on sale at CRC and ordered it.
    Boom, it arrives, I drop the lowers, check oil heights (as we know sometimes these things come dry, so worthwhile just checking when you get a new fork), reassemble and go on my merry way.
    A few weeks later I notice my rebound knob will not turn. Go through to LBS, they disasemble and sorted (with a bit of pfaff).
    Few weeks go by and I want to do a lowers oil change. Take my 8mm to remove the rebound side and it slips! I think I've stripped the thing, but alas it's similar to what Langestrom had above, except that the 8mm has a vertical crack down it!
    So we go through some hassle to sort that out.
    Pass a few months, and on a descent i hear what sounds like a rather harsh bottom out noise...This is around August 2017.
    So I decide to open it up to check...Only to find the rebound damper assemble piston head has come off, the HBO thing has smashed into the bottom of the damper assemble and the entire shaft inside the stanchions is bent...
    I contact Hayes, they're not sure what happened. I contact CRC, they send a courier to South Africa to collect it, take it to Ireland, fix it and send it back...With our local Post Office after I requested a courier (at my expense even), knowing very well that our Post Office is pretty useless.
    Anyway a year goes by with a few lowers oil changes, wiper seals and one damper service.
    Last week...ad oddly familiar noise...so I open up the fork AGAIN, only to find the identical damage inside.
    See pics attached
    So, my question...has anyone experienced anything similar, or know what the actual problem may be? My LBS suspension guys believe it to be due to the chassis not being stiff enough to deal with bottom-out forces.
    For reference I'm about 74kg kitted, 90PSI in IRT and 50 to 60PSI in the main air shaft...so rather hard for my weight i guess.
    Hope nobody else has had the same problem.
    But anyway , now CRC want to get it back there AGAIN to check, and I am trying to avoid it as it's a massive time problem.
    Any advice/constructing comments or questions would be welcome
    And before anyone asks, yes servicing done to spec. Used all the online material, as well as directly contacting Hayes to confirm a few things which were every so slightly ambiguous in the documentation.

    Cheers!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mattoc-20181122_212045.jpg  

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  12. #4112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuan View Post
    So I have had a mattoc for 3 years now and it's been great...Until it hasn't.
    My Mattoc Pro was excellent, but didn't match bike colour scheme, so a red Pro 2 came on sale at CRC and ordered it.
    Boom, it arrives, I drop the lowers, check oil heights (as we know sometimes these things come dry, so worthwhile just checking when you get a new fork), reassemble and go on my merry way.
    A few weeks later I notice my rebound knob will not turn. Go through to LBS, they disasemble and sorted (with a bit of pfaff).
    Few weeks go by and I want to do a lowers oil change. Take my 8mm to remove the rebound side and it slips! I think I've stripped the thing, but alas it's similar to what Langestrom had above, except that the 8mm has a vertical crack down it!
    So we go through some hassle to sort that out.
    Pass a few months, and on a descent i hear what sounds like a rather harsh bottom out noise...This is around August 2017.
    So I decide to open it up to check...Only to find the rebound damper assemble piston head has come off, the HBO thing has smashed into the bottom of the damper assemble and the entire shaft inside the stanchions is bent...
    I contact Hayes, they're not sure what happened. I contact CRC, they send a courier to South Africa to collect it, take it to Ireland, fix it and send it back...With our local Post Office after I requested a courier (at my expense even), knowing very well that our Post Office is pretty useless.
    Anyway a year goes by with a few lowers oil changes, wiper seals and one damper service.
    Last week...ad oddly familiar noise...so I open up the fork AGAIN, only to find the identical damage inside.
    See pics attached
    So, my question...has anyone experienced anything similar, or know what the actual problem may be? My LBS suspension guys believe it to be due to the chassis not being stiff enough to deal with bottom-out forces.
    For reference I'm about 74kg kitted, 90PSI in IRT and 50 to 60PSI in the main air shaft...so rather hard for my weight i guess.
    Hope nobody else has had the same problem.
    But anyway , now CRC want to get it back there AGAIN to check, and I am trying to avoid it as it's a massive time problem.
    Any advice/constructing comments or questions would be welcome
    And before anyone asks, yes servicing done to spec. Used all the online material, as well as directly contacting Hayes to confirm a few things which were every so slightly ambiguous in the documentation.

    Cheers!
    Stuff came loose once and from then it's been a muppet-wrench cycle. The only thing that can bend the damper tube like that is incorrect and extremely rough assembly. It hasn't gone in correctly; likely from the top seal head on the rebound assembly being unscrewed a little and out of place; and has been forced by winding up the end-cap anyway. That force has buckled the tube.

    Once ridden the out-of-line rebound HBO cone and compression HBO cup have hit each other and damaged each other.

    The cracked shaft foot is from over-torque.

    Who did the damper service?

    I wouldn't take any recommendation from that LBS suspension guy. That's not how this works at all.

    I have replacement HBO cups now so you don't have to replace the whole compression damper. You will need to replace the whole rebound damper.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  13. #4113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Stuff came loose once and from then it's been a muppet-wrench cycle. The only thing that can bend the damper tube like that is incorrect and extremely rough assembly. It hasn't gone in correctly; likely from the top seal head on the rebound assembly being unscrewed a little and out of place; and has been forced by winding up the end-cap anyway. That force has buckled the tube.

    Once ridden the out-of-line rebound HBO cone and compression HBO cup have hit each other and damaged each other.

    The cracked shaft foot is from over-torque.

    Who did the damper service?

    I wouldn't take any recommendation from that LBS suspension guy. That's not how this works at all.

    I have replacement HBO cups now so you don't have to replace the whole compression damper. You will need to replace the whole rebound damper.
    Thanks Dougal.
    CRC were the last to work on the fork after it did the identical thing last year or so this time and they (apparently as they wouldn't give me a description of all the work done) from what I can tell replaced the rebound damper and the HBO cup. Since then all I did once was remove the damper at the top to check oil level, and one 2 separate occasions, drop the lowers, once again to drop the oil level. So no fiddling with the rebound from my side (unless winding it out with the blue dial before removing the lowers counts?).
    My questions is why would it have taken a little over a year to present itself again? Perhaps thats just how much "work" was required to sufficiently loosen stuff again to the point at which it failed?
    I will see what the local agent has...although they are NOTORIOUS for being, let's say, reasonably useless with spares for the brands they carry.

    Thanks again. Been following this thread on and off since 2015 when I first got my Mattoc Pro 1 and it's been a wealth of (sometimes over my head) information.
    Cheers

  14. #4114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuan View Post
    Thanks Dougal.
    CRC were the last to work on the fork after it did the identical thing last year or so this time and they (apparently as they wouldn't give me a description of all the work done) from what I can tell replaced the rebound damper and the HBO cup. Since then all I did once was remove the damper at the top to check oil level, and one 2 separate occasions, drop the lowers, once again to drop the oil level. So no fiddling with the rebound from my side (unless winding it out with the blue dial before removing the lowers counts?).
    My questions is why would it have taken a little over a year to present itself again? Perhaps thats just how much "work" was required to sufficiently loosen stuff again to the point at which it failed?
    I will see what the local agent has...although they are NOTORIOUS for being, let's say, reasonably useless with spares for the brands they carry.

    Thanks again. Been following this thread on and off since 2015 when I first got my Mattoc Pro 1 and it's been a wealth of (sometimes over my head) information.
    Cheers
    If the only damper service you did was from the top, I'm not sure how that could have caused such damage. Reinstalling the damper from the top it's almost impossible to overfill it to the point of hydraulic lock and likewise hard to damage it during reinstall.
    It doesn't sound like you had enough riding to ingest enough oil for hydraulic lock either.

    I had one fork look similar a year or so ago. I was only sent the photos as a shop was dealing with it. The owner of the fork wasn't giving any explanations as to what/how happened.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  15. #4115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    A 10mm shaft clamp and you'll be sorted.
    Cool!
    Is there any loctite on it?

    Then the next question.
    For lowers I have a TF-tuned Lower Lube mix.
    Whuddabout semi-bath oil?
    Would Motul 2,5W work?

    Manitou Mattoc-motul_2_5_w_thing.jpg

    (Don't dare to ask that question in the swedish forum's mattoc thread, as it might ignite the Great oil war of 2018 again)

  16. #4116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langestrom View Post
    Cool!
    Is there any loctite on it?

    Then the next question.
    For lowers I have a TF-tuned Lower Lube mix.
    Whuddabout semi-bath oil?
    Would Motul 2,5W work?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    (Don't dare to ask that question in the swedish forum's mattoc thread, as it might ignite the Great oil war of 2018 again)
    I cannot recall if they had loctite or not. but if they did it was not enough to beat a shaft clamp.

    Motul 2.5wt will work in the damper, but the low VI will mean it thickens up a lot more in the cold. Motul vi400 is much better as the damper fluid if you want to use that brand.

    I don't have any experience with the tftuned bath oil. But it will likely work without issues. I use supergliss in summer and 0w40 polar lube in winter.

    I'm amazed the swedes get that passionate about oil!
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  17. #4117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    I cannot recall if they had loctite or not. but if they did it was not enough to beat a shaft clamp.

    Motul 2.5wt will work in the damper, but the low VI will mean it thickens up a lot more in the cold. Motul vi400 is much better as the damper fluid if you want to use that brand.

    I don't have any experience with the tftuned bath oil. But it will likely work without issues. I use supergliss in summer and 0w40 polar lube in winter.

    I'm amazed the swedes get that passionate about oil!
    Motul seems to be what everybody stocks here, and what I can find information on.


    Yeah, Oil, spoke nipple washers, geometry and.. well anything can set of a war it seems like Hahaha.

  18. #4118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuan View Post
    So, my question...has anyone experienced anything similar, or know what the actual problem may be?
    ....
    Any advice/constructing comments or questions would be welcome
    I guess Dougal doesn't consider this a possibility, but otherwise I'd have guessed that the HBO cone unscrewed itself and got wedged against the female HBO thingy in a way that jammed the rebound shaft. Is that not possible?

    My HBO cone recently came unscrewed. The only damage was to the shims. But it's easy to imagine things getting really mangled in there if I'd kept riding on it.

  19. #4119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Langestrom View Post
    Just wanted to lower my fork.
    The mattoc is a breeze to work with.
    Not so much my f-ing X-tools torque wrench.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How did you get the fork apart after the foot broke? I just did the same thing to mine...

  20. #4120
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    I guess Dougal doesn't consider this a possibility, but otherwise I'd have guessed that the HBO cone unscrewed itself and got wedged against the female HBO thingy in a way that jammed the rebound shaft. Is that not possible?

    My HBO cone recently came unscrewed. The only damage was to the shims. But it's easy to imagine things getting really mangled in there if I'd kept riding on it.
    The cone coming unscrewed would chew up shims, but not compress and buckle the internal damper tube.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  21. #4121
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    See below.
    Last edited by Langestrom; 1 Week Ago at 06:08 AM. Reason: Forgot the quote.

  22. #4122
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    How did you get the fork apart after the foot broke? I just did the same thing to mine...
    Luckily it broke above the threads in the outer casing. I just had to unbolt the airshaft, pull the outer casing off and then get the broken part out with the allenkey.. Some members on the Swedish forums had to drill it out. :/

  23. #4123
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    Quote Originally Posted by phile View Post
    I guess Dougal doesn't consider this a possibility, but otherwise I'd have guessed that the HBO cone unscrewed itself and got wedged against the female HBO thingy in a way that jammed the rebound shaft. Is that not possible?

    My HBO cone recently came unscrewed. The only damage was to the shims. But it's easy to imagine things getting really mangled in there if I'd kept riding on it.
    For sure, 100%. I actually said fek it to CRC and stripped the entire rebound assembly the other day. The HBO cone and rebound piston had both come loose.
    Either way...I don't think things should be unscrewing themselves. Especially from the factory. The fact my exact for has done this twice now without anyone either time prior to the damage having worked on the rebound damper (only the compression to check oil height and replace damping fluid) really makes me think I at least got a dud. But even after CRC "fixed" it and replaced stuff, the same thing again? Meh, I dunno. Anyway, I seem to have rebuilt the rebound damper (as I had some spare parts which were not damaged in the previous time and LBS had another part or 2 from a fekked Mattoc), but my HBO cup is still pwned. So my plan is thus... Rebuild the compression damper as when I was cleaning the rebound damper I noticed bits of alu from the prev damage floating around, so it is likely pieces made their way into the damper itself. However...I cannot find an exploded view of the MC2 damper. I suspect disassembly, clean and rebuild it not difficult, just a little meticulous but without a diagram ... meh.
    Then I could just remove the damaged portion of the HBO cone by like 15mm, clean it carefully and see whether there is any problem. That might just mean little/no HBO...Yes...I only suspect this MIGHT work.
    But with the IRT that should be fine until I can source the actual part locally (considering how cheap the part if, it doesn't make sense for me to import it from overseas considering shipping costs).
    Any thoughts, or anyone with a diagram of the MC2 damper parts/etc. I can pretty much see how most things come apart already, but you never know whether there's a sneaky spring or something or shim which was stuck to some other part and after cleaning comes off etc.

  24. #4124
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    I've never been really happy with my Pike on my YT Jeffsy 27, my Magnum Pro on my 29+ and my Auron on my Process 111 seem much better for an old man trying to keep up with the kids! The Pike just seems like a much more aggressive fork and not as smooth off the top. Anyways, I see the Expert on sale for nothing (like $225 after all the discounts) at Bikewagon so I pull the trigger. I figured it was a holdover, maybe a 17, but get it in and it says on the box manufactured 8/14!!! What the heck? Anyways, tempted to return, but I guess I'll give it a try. Any advice? Should I go ahead and add some oil in there? Also should or can I swap the cartridge from my Mag Pro to the Mattoc since I would prefer my YT to have the best

  25. #4125
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    Quote Originally Posted by kendunn View Post
    I've never been really happy with my Pike on my YT Jeffsy 27, my Magnum Pro on my 29+ and my Auron on my Process 111 seem much better for an old man trying to keep up with the kids! The Pike just seems like a much more aggressive fork and not as smooth off the top. Anyways, I see the Expert on sale for nothing (like $225 after all the discounts) at Bikewagon so I pull the trigger. I figured it was a holdover, maybe a 17, but get it in and it says on the box manufactured 8/14!!! What the heck? Anyways, tempted to return, but I guess I'll give it a try. Any advice? Should I go ahead and add some oil in there? Also should or can I swap the cartridge from my Mag Pro to the Mattoc since I would prefer my YT to have the best
    Expert works great for most people, you can upgrade the damper to the Pro version (which makes the whole fork a Pro) very easily. I have the bits listed here: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/mattoc-...t-manitou.html

    Also air side you can drop in the IRT or IVA: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/suspens...u-irt-iva-kits

    Also one piece seals are lower friction, your fork may have the older two piece seals (seal and wiper): https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/mastodo...t-manitou.html
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  26. #4126
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    I have a 2017 Mattoc Comp Boost with the ABS+ damper. I want to have some shims on hand for tuning. What are the ID of the shims? I think they are 8mm, but may be 10mm (or is that the Pro damper?). The tuning guide has a lot of info about external diameter and thickness, but nothing about ID.

  27. #4127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    I have a 2017 Mattoc Comp Boost with the ABS+ damper. I want to have some shims on hand for tuning. What are the ID of the shims? I think they are 8mm, but may be 10mm (or is that the Pro damper?). The tuning guide has a lot of info about external diameter and thickness, but nothing about ID.
    8mm.

    This is your best value for shims. I still haven't cut one of these open to count them though: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/abs-tun...l-manitou.html
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  28. #4128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    8mm.

    This is your best value for shims. I still haven't cut one of these open to count them though: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/abs-tun...l-manitou.html
    Thanks. I actually need some 6mm ID for my Topaz and was going to get some for my Diamond and the wife's Mattoc. So I need a range of sizes.

  29. #4129
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    I'll be completely honest and say that I stripped the foot nut on the air spring side once on my 1st gen Mattoc. I was using the 8mm and forgot they were (kind of) reverse threaded. I say kind of because as most of us realize, it's actually not reverse threaded but due to the orientation, you do turn it clockwise to loosen.

    It was the original air shaft so possibly could have asked Hayes for the warranty replacement to get the revised air shaft. Some did that, and I didn't see anyone post about being declined. However I caused the issue. So I bought the replacement air shaft.

    I can't even claim that I had been drinking; I enjoy a beer while wrenching now and then, but no, I just forgot and it is *very* easy to ruin that alloy thread.

  30. #4130
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    My Mattoc Pro 2 has been really weird lately. When I'm riding it feels like something is loose in the front, like something loose in the handlebar area, but everything is tight. turns out its the fork, it's really harsh at low speed over small smooth rocks, etc.

    But reading through the thread, when I adjusted air, at least 10-15 times, it was always with the bike upright, not upside down.

    So ... how do I reset it all without taking it apart? Or do I have to take it apart? I don't have bath oil yet.

    Can I: turn bike upside down, attach pump, and fully extend the fork, then adjust for PSI and detach pump?

    Also, I need three materials to service the fork right? Motorex 2.5w, any synthetic 5w-40 (does this need to be motorex or can I just go to the auto store and grab engine oil) and slickoleum?

    EDIT: Just went into my garage and see I have Maxima 5w, is that okay? Or should I get the motorex 2.5?

  31. #4131
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdang307 View Post
    My Mattoc Pro 2 has been really weird lately. When I'm riding it feels like something is loose in the front, like something loose in the handlebar area, but everything is tight. turns out its the fork, it's really harsh at low speed over small smooth rocks, etc.

    But reading through the thread, when I adjusted air, at least 10-15 times, it was always with the bike upright, not upside down.

    So ... how do I reset it all without taking it apart? Or do I have to take it apart? I don't have bath oil yet.

    Can I: turn bike upside down, attach pump, and fully extend the fork, then adjust for PSI and detach pump?

    Also, I need three materials to service the fork right? Motorex 2.5w, any synthetic 5w-40 (does this need to be motorex or can I just go to the auto store and grab engine oil) and slickoleum?

    EDIT: Just went into my garage and see I have Maxima 5w, is that okay? Or should I get the motorex 2.5?
    If you feel something is loose, you really need to strip the fork and check. Primarily damper side.

    Air changes will only result in the fork riding lower.

    Maxima 5wt is fine. Engine oils are all over the place for slipperyness. Best to use a brand and type that someone else has had success with.

    For those bottom bolts. Remember that most torque wrenches don't work in reverse!
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  32. #4132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    If you feel something is loose, you really need to strip the fork and check. Primarily damper side.

    Air changes will only result in the fork riding lower.

    Maxima 5wt is fine. Engine oils are all over the place for slipperyness. Best to use a brand and type that someone else has had success with.

    For those bottom bolts. Remember that most torque wrenches don't work in reverse!
    I meant to say the "looseness" felt like it was in the headset area, not the shock. But I feel like it's the shock causing that to feel in the headset area, like the feeling when a shock is packed down (but it's not). It's weird and developed recently even though I haven't touched the air in a little while. I'll investigate this further. Thanks.

    I'll stick with motorex syn for now.

  33. #4133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    If you feel something is loose, you really need to strip the fork and check. Primarily damper side.

    Air changes will only result in the fork riding lower.

    Maxima 5wt is fine. Engine oils are all over the place for slipperyness. Best to use a brand and type that someone else has had success with.

    For those bottom bolts. Remember that most torque wrenches don't work in reverse!
    I am also getting ready to open up my Mattoc Pro, and was looking for the correct fluids to replace. I just looked under my bench and I already have Slick Honey and an almost full bottle of Torco, the RFF 7 - leftover from an X-Fusion fork rebuild. Is this fork fluid OK to use on the Mattoc Pro? Thanx!

    Here are the RFF 7 specs:
    Viscosity @ 100 degC 5.70 cSt
    Viscosity @ 40 degC 19.98 cSt
    >>Features
    >Synthetic blend formula
    >For cartridge and damper rod fork applications
    >Advanced anti-friction and anti-stiction additive technology
    >High VI formula provides consistent fade free performance
    >Formulated for long term durability and component life
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mattoc-2018-12-09-12.59.16.jpg  

    17 Stache 29+
    17 Moto Ti gravel
    14 GT Zaskar 100 9r
    15 Moto NT fat & 27.5+

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