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Thread: Manitou Mattoc

  1. #4801
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Does anyone know if you can put Mattoc Pro parts (MC2 damper, rebound, IRT) onto the Mattoc comp?
    AFAIK, no on all three accounts.

  2. #4802
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Does anyone know if you can put Mattoc Pro parts (MC2 damper, rebound, IRT) onto the Mattoc comp?
    I believe you can't. If I remember correctly, the stanchion inner diameter is different and/or the threading.

  3. #4803
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS645 View Post
    AFAIK, no on all three accounts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mac1987 View Post
    I believe you can't. If I remember correctly, the stanchion inner diameter is different and/or the threading.
    Thank you for the information - I bought a Mattoc Pro cheap that has a mangled dorado foot nut, so I was going to convert the parts over since you can get the comp fork at half the cost. I have parts on order just in case I can actually get it separated from the lowers, but it does not look pretty at all. The dude actually mangled the top cap for the IRT valve as well, he said all he had was a large crescent wrench... I was able to at least get that removed along with MC2 damper. Thankfully, that was not wrenched on at all. Once parts arrive I will attempt to remove the foot nut from the lowers, but I am betting on I will have to take more drastic measures like drilling it out. If y'all want some cringe-worthy pics, just let me know. BTW, if this doesn't work out, I will be selling some of the parts, but keeping others (seals, bushings, etc.) for my own Mattoc. MTC

  4. #4804
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Thank you for the information - I bought a Mattoc Pro cheap that has a mangled dorado foot nut, so I was going to convert the parts over since you can get the comp fork at half the cost. I have parts on order just in case I can actually get it separated from the lowers, but it does not look pretty at all. The dude actually mangled the top cap for the IRT valve as well, he said all he had was a large crescent wrench... I was able to at least get that removed along with MC2 damper. Thankfully, that was not wrenched on at all. Once parts arrive I will attempt to remove the foot nut from the lowers, but I am betting on I will have to take more drastic measures like drilling it out. If y'all want some cringe-worthy pics, just let me know. BTW, if this doesn't work out, I will be selling some of the parts, but keeping others (seals, bushings, etc.) for my own Mattoc. MTC
    For emergency foot bolt removal.

    Undo the piston from the top and wind-out the valve rod so the shaft foot is hollow. Then tap it to M5, wind in a M5 socket head screw and that will give you enough self-tightening leverage to break it loose.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  5. #4805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    For emergency foot bolt removal.

    Undo the piston from the top and wind-out the valve rod so the shaft foot is hollow. Then tap it to M5, wind in a M5 socket head screw and that will give you enough self-tightening leverage to break it loose.
    I will try that first - I will need a longer allen wrench to get down in there first. Thanks!

  6. #4806
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    @Dougal, that did the trick! I was able to remove the lowers with a 6mm on an extension, all that is left is to tap it to M5. Thank you!

  7. #4807
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    SO... I tapped the footnut, but I apparently bought the wrong strength bolt and twisted the head right off of it as it was locking down. I then decided to get a tap with the same pitch as a caliper bolt and drilled out the other bolt. To be honest, I really thought I screwed it up big time when that head spun off. It all worked out in the end, the bolt finally took a hold of the footnut and it broke loose. I will be going back to get another tap to clean out the threads on the lowers, but it looks like a successful job complete! I am probably another week before I get parts from NZ, but happy it turned out well. A 100 bucks in parts and tools, 100 for the fork, I think I got me a really nice back up for the Salsa.

    Thanks again Dougal!!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mattoc-footnut.jpeg  


  8. #4808
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Does anyone know if you can put Mattoc Pro parts (MC2 damper, rebound, IRT) onto the Mattoc comp?
    I believe, if you can save the upper stanchions from the pro, you could save pretty much all the parts from pro, (the upper stanchion ID is not the same diameter, but you should be able to salvage the air piston from the damaged pro compression rod, damping side is not compatible between those at all though, if you don't manage to go through with this, I would be more than happy to check out the mangled IRT for cheap, I don't need IRT, it's not worth the cost for me as I don't feel anything lacking with IVA, but cheaply why not.

  9. #4809
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    Stupid me

    Nevermind what I said before, too hasty, new wheel has side to side play on the internal axle, needs shimming.
    Last edited by piciu256; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:19 AM. Reason: Nevermind

  10. #4810
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    Is the black end bit on the damper shaft something you can replace seperately or is it a whole rebound replacement (pro)? Don't ask!

    EDIT: Found it:
    https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/shaft-foot-damper-pro-manitou.html
    Last edited by CS645; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:14 PM.

  11. #4811
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    I whant to replace bushings in the lowers my self. I need bushings for 1st gen mattoc expert. Are they all the same size over all the models?
    Is it obvious how deep i need to install them?
    It will be my first attempt so apriciate any help and tips.
    Thanks.

  12. #4812
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    @Dougal my mattoc comp is making sound when changing from compression to extension. The sound is a "clack" like some loose and happends, when riding the bike, with the compression knob in any position but more easy with compression applied. With the bike stopped I can only obtain the same "clack" with the compression knob almost closed pushing and releasing it quickly.

    What could it be? Low oil heigh in hidraulic circuit? Loose piston?

    Thanks

    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk

  13. #4813
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    Quote Originally Posted by thova View Post
    I whant to replace bushings in the lowers my self. I need bushings for 1st gen mattoc expert. Are they all the same size over all the models?
    Is it obvious how deep i need to install them?
    It will be my first attempt so apriciate any help and tips.
    Thanks.
    I found how to make a diy busching puller and installation tool.

    I just whant to know how deep the lower buschings need to be set, in case that the old buschings where not in place.
    Thanks

  14. #4814
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    Question: say the Mattoc would've had separate high and low speed rebound damping which would you prefer compared to the current ratio:

    - Low speed faster compared high speed
    - same as now
    - High speed faster


    Just curious if others will have the same preference as I have.

  15. #4815
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikesandWind View Post
    My Mattoc comp has developed a similar knock that is noticeable at stand still. What did it end up being. Lachman - did Wiggle cover it under warranty? Cheers
    High speed faster so that you can have a bit more usable adjustment range, now it appears that pretty much everyone runs it on the open side.

  16. #4816
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    Hi guys,

    Question about the high speed compression knob being stuck. I'm not sure if I haven't applied enough force to turn it and it was like that ever since I took it out of the box. Is there a way to determine if the knob has been turned max to + / - so I'll know where the opposite side is....

  17. #4817
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillerKamote View Post
    Hi guys,

    Question about the high speed compression knob being stuck. I'm not sure if I haven't applied enough force to turn it and it was like that ever since I took it out of the box. Is there a way to determine if the knob has been turned max to + / - so I'll know where the opposite side is....
    Close the LSC and see how the fork takes square edge bumps (aka curbs). If the HSC is completely closed, the fork will (almost) spike. If it is completely opened, the shims will open on high speed impacts and the fork will largely absorb the hit.
    The alternative is to open the fork and visually check whether the HSC is closed or opened, but this requires removing the damper and changing all oils.

  18. #4818
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    thanks, will give it a try

  19. #4819
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramdm View Post
    @Dougal my mattoc comp is making sound when changing from compression to extension. The sound is a "clack" like some loose and happends, when riding the bike, with the compression knob in any position but more easy with compression applied. With the bike stopped I can only obtain the same "clack" with the compression knob almost closed pushing and releasing it quickly.

    What could it be? Low oil heigh in hidraulic circuit? Loose piston?

    Thanks

    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk
    I found the cause of this today. It is the ABS+ compression damper check shim causing the knock on a slightly conical piston face. I think virtually all owners reporting bushing knock actually have this damper knock and the bushings are fine.

    To fix it. Remove the ABS+ damper, undo the bottom nut, take off the piston and polish the bottom surface flat using fine emery paper on a dead flat surface.

    Clean the piston and reinstall.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  20. #4820
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    Got a little disappointed, thought I was getting a Pro version of the Mattoc because the pic the guy posted said Dorado Air on the leg which according to the Manitou website was the Pro and the Comp has Expert Air spring instead. What gives?

  21. #4821
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    Quote Originally Posted by kendunn View Post
    Got a little disappointed, thought I was getting a Pro version of the Mattoc because the pic the guy posted said Dorado Air on the leg which according to the Manitou website was the Pro and the Comp has Expert Air spring instead. What gives?
    Expert Air is a cheaper to manufacture version of the Dorado air. Works the same. It's a recent addition to the range and only pops up on I think 2020 spec Comp's which have the change in threads.

    The 2019 Comp got the Dorado air. I think. I'm not sure when exactly they changed the Comp models from the top pumped ISO air to the Dorado Air. But somewhere after 2017 or so.

    Best way to know it's a Pro is by the damper knobs on top. If it's got HSC/LSC and HBO knobs then it's a Pro or Expert.
    Expert was only non boost with black lowers and gold stanchions.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  22. #4822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Expert Air is a cheaper to manufacture version of the Dorado air. Works the same. It's a recent addition to the range and only pops up on I think 2020 spec Comp's which have the change in threads.

    The 2019 Comp got the Dorado air. I think. I'm not sure when exactly they changed the Comp models from the top pumped ISO air to the Dorado Air. But somewhere after 2017 or so.

    Best way to know it's a Pro is by the damper knobs on top. If it's got HSC/LSC and HBO knobs then it's a Pro or Expert.
    Expert was only non boost with black lowers and gold stanchions.
    THanks, what happened was I bought a Krampus with a new 29+ fork still in box and saw the sticker and assumed it was Pro after checking their website. You would think that Manitou would update their website. Pretty disappointed when I saw it was Comp, but with 29+ I'm sure I'll be fine with the Comp

  23. #4823
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    Quote Originally Posted by kendunn View Post
    THanks, what happened was I bought a Krampus with a new 29+ fork still in box and saw the sticker and assumed it was Pro after checking their website. You would think that Manitou would update their website. Pretty disappointed when I saw it was Comp, but with 29+ I'm sure I'll be fine with the Comp
    The website has the Comp with the VTT damper. Which is the new multi-mode based on the ABS+: https://manitoumtb.com/product/mattoc-2/?cat_id=23

    Your fork box should have a sticker on the end with model spec and production date.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  24. #4824
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    I found the cause of this today. It is the ABS+ compression damper check shim causing the knock on a slightly conical piston face. I think virtually all owners reporting bushing knock actually have this damper knock and the bushings are fine.

    To fix it. Remove the ABS+ damper, undo the bottom nut, take off the piston and polish the bottom surface flat using fine emery paper on a dead flat surface.

    Clean the piston and reinstall.
    Thanks @Dougal

    If I'm understanding you, I must sand the down face of the piston.

    I have signaled it on the image below. Is that correct?



    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk

  25. #4825
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramdm View Post
    Thanks @Dougal

    If I'm understanding you, I must sand the down face of the piston.

    I have signaled it on the image below. Is that correct?



    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk
    Yes.

    I expect Hayes-Manitou will come out with parts to fix it, but polishing the piston flat is the permanent fix and can be done quickly.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  26. #4826
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    Mattocs on sale for us customers at the Hayes store.

    https://shop.hayesperformance.com/co...erer-15mm-axle

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