Manitou Mattoc

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  • 10-31-2019
    CS645
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Does anyone know if you can put Mattoc Pro parts (MC2 damper, rebound, IRT) onto the Mattoc comp?

    AFAIK, no on all three accounts.
  • 10-31-2019
    Mac1987
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Does anyone know if you can put Mattoc Pro parts (MC2 damper, rebound, IRT) onto the Mattoc comp?

    I believe you can't. If I remember correctly, the stanchion inner diameter is different and/or the threading.
  • 10-31-2019
    Crankyanken
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CS645 View Post
    AFAIK, no on all three accounts.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mac1987 View Post
    I believe you can't. If I remember correctly, the stanchion inner diameter is different and/or the threading.

    Thank you for the information - I bought a Mattoc Pro cheap that has a mangled dorado foot nut, so I was going to convert the parts over since you can get the comp fork at half the cost. I have parts on order just in case I can actually get it separated from the lowers, but it does not look pretty at all. The dude actually mangled the top cap for the IRT valve as well, he said all he had was a large crescent wrench... I was able to at least get that removed along with MC2 damper. Thankfully, that was not wrenched on at all. Once parts arrive I will attempt to remove the foot nut from the lowers, but I am betting on I will have to take more drastic measures like drilling it out. If y'all want some cringe-worthy pics, just let me know. BTW, if this doesn't work out, I will be selling some of the parts, but keeping others (seals, bushings, etc.) for my own Mattoc. MTC
  • 10-31-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Thank you for the information - I bought a Mattoc Pro cheap that has a mangled dorado foot nut, so I was going to convert the parts over since you can get the comp fork at half the cost. I have parts on order just in case I can actually get it separated from the lowers, but it does not look pretty at all. The dude actually mangled the top cap for the IRT valve as well, he said all he had was a large crescent wrench... I was able to at least get that removed along with MC2 damper. Thankfully, that was not wrenched on at all. Once parts arrive I will attempt to remove the foot nut from the lowers, but I am betting on I will have to take more drastic measures like drilling it out. If y'all want some cringe-worthy pics, just let me know. BTW, if this doesn't work out, I will be selling some of the parts, but keeping others (seals, bushings, etc.) for my own Mattoc. MTC

    For emergency foot bolt removal.

    Undo the piston from the top and wind-out the valve rod so the shaft foot is hollow. Then tap it to M5, wind in a M5 socket head screw and that will give you enough self-tightening leverage to break it loose.
  • 11-01-2019
    Crankyanken
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    For emergency foot bolt removal.

    Undo the piston from the top and wind-out the valve rod so the shaft foot is hollow. Then tap it to M5, wind in a M5 socket head screw and that will give you enough self-tightening leverage to break it loose.

    I will try that first - I will need a longer allen wrench to get down in there first. Thanks!
  • 11-01-2019
    Crankyanken
    @Dougal, that did the trick! I was able to remove the lowers with a 6mm on an extension, all that is left is to tap it to M5. Thank you!
  • 11-02-2019
    Crankyanken
    1 Attachment(s)
    SO... I tapped the footnut, but I apparently bought the wrong strength bolt and twisted the head right off of it as it was locking down. I then decided to get a tap with the same pitch as a caliper bolt and drilled out the other bolt. To be honest, I really thought I screwed it up big time when that head spun off. It all worked out in the end, the bolt finally took a hold of the footnut and it broke loose. I will be going back to get another tap to clean out the threads on the lowers, but it looks like a successful job complete! I am probably another week before I get parts from NZ, but happy it turned out well. A 100 bucks in parts and tools, 100 for the fork, I think I got me a really nice back up for the Salsa.

    Thanks again Dougal!!

  • 11-02-2019
    piciu256
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Crankyanken View Post
    Does anyone know if you can put Mattoc Pro parts (MC2 damper, rebound, IRT) onto the Mattoc comp?

    I believe, if you can save the upper stanchions from the pro, you could save pretty much all the parts from pro, (the upper stanchion ID is not the same diameter, but you should be able to salvage the air piston from the damaged pro compression rod, damping side is not compatible between those at all though, if you don't manage to go through with this, I would be more than happy to check out the mangled IRT for cheap, I don't need IRT, it's not worth the cost for me as I don't feel anything lacking with IVA, but cheaply why not.
  • 11-09-2019
    piciu256
    Stupid me
    Nevermind what I said before, too hasty, new wheel has side to side play on the internal axle, needs shimming.
  • 11-09-2019
    CS645
    Is the black end bit on the damper shaft something you can replace seperately or is it a whole rebound replacement (pro)? Don't ask!

    EDIT: Found it:
    https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/shaft-foot-damper-pro-manitou.html
  • 11-10-2019
    thova
    I whant to replace bushings in the lowers my self. I need bushings for 1st gen mattoc expert. Are they all the same size over all the models?
    Is it obvious how deep i need to install them?
    It will be my first attempt so apriciate any help and tips.
    Thanks.
  • 11-10-2019
    ramdm
    @Dougal my mattoc comp is making sound when changing from compression to extension. The sound is a "clack" like some loose and happends, when riding the bike, with the compression knob in any position but more easy with compression applied. With the bike stopped I can only obtain the same "clack" with the compression knob almost closed pushing and releasing it quickly.

    What could it be? Low oil heigh in hidraulic circuit? Loose piston?

    Thanks

    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk
  • 11-15-2019
    thova
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by thova View Post
    I whant to replace bushings in the lowers my self. I need bushings for 1st gen mattoc expert. Are they all the same size over all the models?
    Is it obvious how deep i need to install them?
    It will be my first attempt so apriciate any help and tips.
    Thanks.

    I found how to make a diy busching puller and installation tool.

    I just whant to know how deep the lower buschings need to be set, in case that the old buschings where not in place.
    Thanks
  • 11-18-2019
    CS645
    Question: say the Mattoc would've had separate high and low speed rebound damping which would you prefer compared to the current ratio:

    - Low speed faster compared high speed
    - same as now
    - High speed faster


    Just curious if others will have the same preference as I have.
  • 11-18-2019
    piciu256
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BikesandWind View Post
    My Mattoc comp has developed a similar knock that is noticeable at stand still. What did it end up being. Lachman - did Wiggle cover it under warranty? Cheers

    High speed faster so that you can have a bit more usable adjustment range, now it appears that pretty much everyone runs it on the open side.
  • 11-28-2019
    KillerKamote
    Hi guys,

    Question about the high speed compression knob being stuck. I'm not sure if I haven't applied enough force to turn it and it was like that ever since I took it out of the box. Is there a way to determine if the knob has been turned max to + / - so I'll know where the opposite side is....:confused:
  • 11-29-2019
    Mac1987
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KillerKamote View Post
    Hi guys,

    Question about the high speed compression knob being stuck. I'm not sure if I haven't applied enough force to turn it and it was like that ever since I took it out of the box. Is there a way to determine if the knob has been turned max to + / - so I'll know where the opposite side is....:confused:

    Close the LSC and see how the fork takes square edge bumps (aka curbs). If the HSC is completely closed, the fork will (almost) spike. If it is completely opened, the shims will open on high speed impacts and the fork will largely absorb the hit.
    The alternative is to open the fork and visually check whether the HSC is closed or opened, but this requires removing the damper and changing all oils.
  • 11-29-2019
    KillerKamote
    thanks, will give it a try
  • 12-04-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ramdm View Post
    @Dougal my mattoc comp is making sound when changing from compression to extension. The sound is a "clack" like some loose and happends, when riding the bike, with the compression knob in any position but more easy with compression applied. With the bike stopped I can only obtain the same "clack" with the compression knob almost closed pushing and releasing it quickly.

    What could it be? Low oil heigh in hidraulic circuit? Loose piston?

    Thanks

    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk

    I found the cause of this today. It is the ABS+ compression damper check shim causing the knock on a slightly conical piston face. I think virtually all owners reporting bushing knock actually have this damper knock and the bushings are fine.

    To fix it. Remove the ABS+ damper, undo the bottom nut, take off the piston and polish the bottom surface flat using fine emery paper on a dead flat surface.

    Clean the piston and reinstall.
  • 12-05-2019
    kendunn
    Got a little disappointed, thought I was getting a Pro version of the Mattoc because the pic the guy posted said Dorado Air on the leg which according to the Manitou website was the Pro and the Comp has Expert Air spring instead. What gives?
  • 12-05-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kendunn View Post
    Got a little disappointed, thought I was getting a Pro version of the Mattoc because the pic the guy posted said Dorado Air on the leg which according to the Manitou website was the Pro and the Comp has Expert Air spring instead. What gives?

    Expert Air is a cheaper to manufacture version of the Dorado air. Works the same. It's a recent addition to the range and only pops up on I think 2020 spec Comp's which have the change in threads.

    The 2019 Comp got the Dorado air. I think. I'm not sure when exactly they changed the Comp models from the top pumped ISO air to the Dorado Air. But somewhere after 2017 or so.

    Best way to know it's a Pro is by the damper knobs on top. If it's got HSC/LSC and HBO knobs then it's a Pro or Expert.
    Expert was only non boost with black lowers and gold stanchions.
  • 12-05-2019
    kendunn
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Expert Air is a cheaper to manufacture version of the Dorado air. Works the same. It's a recent addition to the range and only pops up on I think 2020 spec Comp's which have the change in threads.

    The 2019 Comp got the Dorado air. I think. I'm not sure when exactly they changed the Comp models from the top pumped ISO air to the Dorado Air. But somewhere after 2017 or so.

    Best way to know it's a Pro is by the damper knobs on top. If it's got HSC/LSC and HBO knobs then it's a Pro or Expert.
    Expert was only non boost with black lowers and gold stanchions.

    THanks, what happened was I bought a Krampus with a new 29+ fork still in box and saw the sticker and assumed it was Pro after checking their website. You would think that Manitou would update their website. Pretty disappointed when I saw it was Comp, but with 29+ I'm sure I'll be fine with the Comp
  • 12-05-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kendunn View Post
    THanks, what happened was I bought a Krampus with a new 29+ fork still in box and saw the sticker and assumed it was Pro after checking their website. You would think that Manitou would update their website. Pretty disappointed when I saw it was Comp, but with 29+ I'm sure I'll be fine with the Comp

    The website has the Comp with the VTT damper. Which is the new multi-mode based on the ABS+: https://manitoumtb.com/product/mattoc-2/?cat_id=23

    Your fork box should have a sticker on the end with model spec and production date.
  • 12-07-2019
    ramdm
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    I found the cause of this today. It is the ABS+ compression damper check shim causing the knock on a slightly conical piston face. I think virtually all owners reporting bushing knock actually have this damper knock and the bushings are fine.

    To fix it. Remove the ABS+ damper, undo the bottom nut, take off the piston and polish the bottom surface flat using fine emery paper on a dead flat surface.

    Clean the piston and reinstall.

    Thanks @Dougal

    If I'm understanding you, I must sand the down face of the piston.

    I have signaled it on the image below. Is that correct?



    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk
  • 12-07-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ramdm View Post
    Thanks @Dougal

    If I'm understanding you, I must sand the down face of the piston.

    I have signaled it on the image below. Is that correct?



    Enviado desde mi Redmi 5 Plus mediante Tapatalk

    Yes.

    I expect Hayes-Manitou will come out with parts to fix it, but polishing the piston flat is the permanent fix and can be done quickly.
  • 12-09-2019
    mullen119
    Mattocs on sale for us customers at the Hayes store.

    https://shop.hayesperformance.com/co...erer-15mm-axle
  • 12-10-2019
    SalsaHT
    New mattoc comp doesnít feel right.

    My questions are:

    What does the red ABS+ knob on the damper side do?
    ABS+ knob more than 3 clicks makes knocking noise while riding.
    90psi seems to make the fork top out quite hard.
    Dorado air, does it have 2 chambers?

    Thanks
  • 12-10-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SalsaHT View Post
    New mattoc comp doesnít feel right.

    My questions are:

    What does the red ABS+ knob on the damper side do?
    ABS+ knob more than 3 clicks makes knocking noise while riding.
    90psi seems to make the fork top out quite hard.
    Dorado air, does it have 2 chambers?

    Thanks

    ABS+ knob is your low speed compression damping adjuster.
    Knocking is the check shim tapping against the concave side of the ABS+ piston. See a few posts above for how to fix it (polish it flat).
    If you have top-out then your pump isn't connecting the positive and negative chambers. Be sure to screw the pump on completely as the valve rod connects the chambers.

    Yes Dorado air has positive and negative chambers. It can have three chambers with IRT installed.
  • 12-10-2019
    SalsaHT
    Thanks!!

    I have the M-IVR on the air side.

    The fork I have came on a RSD sergeant V3

    Iíll try a different pump to see it that helps.
  • 12-11-2019
    aiv23
    1 Attachment(s)
    I'm servicing my Mattoc Comp which is leaking bath oil on both sides into the air chamber and damper. I'm wondering if the seal head on the air side unscrews? (Red circle) There must be an o-ring in there somewhere but I'm not wanting to put any more force to unscrew it in case it doesn't. Is this where the 10x3mm o-ring goes that was mentioned earlier in the thread?

    Anyone know what size the damper seal is? (Green circle) Seems the shaft is 12.7mm.

    Attachment 1297959
  • 12-11-2019
    mullen119
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by aiv23 View Post
    I'm servicing my Mattoc Comp which is leaking bath oil on both sides into the air chamber and damper. I'm wondering if the seal head on the air side unscrews? (Red circle) There must be an o-ring in there somewhere but I'm not wanting to put any more force to unscrew it in case it doesn't. Is this where the 10x3mm o-ring goes that was mentioned earlier in the thread?

    Anyone know what size the damper seal is? (Green circle) Seems the shaft is 12.7mm.


    Attachment 1297959

    With shaft clamps, you can remove the foot bolts and slide the seal heads off to get to the internal seals. Remove the silver ring and the detent balls and springs from the foot nut prior to removing them.

    10x3 works on the air side, but its a tight fit. I don't recall the damper side size off the top of my head.
  • 12-11-2019
    aiv23
    Thanks Mullen, my shaft clamp is in the mail. I guess I'll have to wait on ordering the seals until then. I have the manitou mattoc seal kit but nothing in there looks like it's 12.7mm internal diameter.
  • 12-11-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by aiv23 View Post
    I'm servicing my Mattoc Comp which is leaking bath oil on both sides into the air chamber and damper. I'm wondering if the seal head on the air side unscrews? (Red circle) There must be an o-ring in there somewhere but I'm not wanting to put any more force to unscrew it in case it doesn't. Is this where the 10x3mm o-ring goes that was mentioned earlier in the thread?

    Anyone know what size the damper seal is? (Green circle) Seems the shaft is 12.7mm.

    Attachment 1297959

    Air side will be a -110 quad-ring. Replacing that with a 10x3mm oring (you need to remove the backup ring to fit) gives a tighter seal.

    Damper side is a lip seal built into the cap. I haven't tried to replace one before. They generally last a very long time, just treat the oil migration as a maintenance timer.
  • 12-11-2019
    aiv23
    Thanks Dougal. I will leave the damper side in that case. For the air side, do I need to unscrew the red bit circled to change the o-ring? Can't see any seal in the current state and I'm not sure what you mean by backup ring.
  • 12-12-2019
    RoboS
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Air side will be a -110 quad-ring. Replacing that with a 10x3mm oring (you need to remove the backup ring to fit) gives a tighter seal.

    Damper side is a lip seal built into the cap. I haven't tried to replace one before. They generally last a very long time, just treat the oil migration as a maintenance timer.

    I can confirm that 10x3 oring fits both sides. Air side was tight, damper side was a perfect fit on Mattoc Pro

    Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
  • 12-12-2019
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by aiv23 View Post
    Thanks Dougal. I will leave the damper side in that case. For the air side, do I need to unscrew the red bit circled to change the o-ring? Can't see any seal in the current state and I'm not sure what you mean by backup ring.

    I take the air piston off to change the end-cap seal. You've just got to be careful sliding the cap back on over the square edge of the shaft.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RoboS View Post
    I can confirm that 10x3 oring fits both sides. Air side was tight, damper side was a perfect fit on Mattoc Pro

    Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

    Yes Pro is 10mm shafts both sides. Expert and Comp used a 1/2" (12.7mm) damper shaft with a different seal.
  • 12-12-2019
    aiv23
    [QUOTE=Dougal;14468281]I take the air piston off to change the end-cap seal. You've just got to be careful sliding the cap back on over the square edge of the shaft.


    Thanks Dougal, I think I figured it all out. There was a 10x3 o-ring in the Mattoc seal kit so I used that on the air shaft. Looking forward to riding again tomorrow and seeing how it holds up.
  • 12-12-2019
    Aresab
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    The website has the Comp with the VTT damper. Which is the new multi-mode based on the ABS+: https://manitoumtb.com/product/mattoc-2/?cat_id=23

    Your fork box should have a sticker on the end with model spec and production date.

    Hello,
    Does anyone have more info on the VTT damper in the newer comps? I just bought my wife a new Mastodon comp 120mm and it did not come with the ABS+ / Red cap that I was expecting. The cap is thinner and Black with 3 positions rather than several which sounds like the VTT Dougal describes. Any thoughts on this damper vs the ABS+ and can the older top-cap be used for finer adjustments? I don't see any info on the Manitou Website. I asked a similar question in the Mastodon thread however there's not as much traffic as here.
    Thank you!
  • 12-12-2019
    mullen119
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Aresab View Post
    Hello,
    Does anyone have more info on the VTT damper in the newer comps? I just bought my wife a new Mastodon comp 120mm and it did not come with the ABS+ / Red cap that I was expecting. The cap is thinner and Black with 3 positions rather than several which sounds like the VTT Dougal describes. Any thoughts on this damper vs the ABS+ and can the older top-cap be used for finer adjustments? I don't see any info on the Manitou Website. I asked a similar question in the Mastodon thread however there's not as much traffic as here.
    Thank you!

    I spent a few months on it when it was in development. Its pretty good, just not as adjustable as the ABS+

    It has 3 flow paths for oil and works like this:

    Full open mode has a oil LSC circuit and HSC shim stack that flow oil. Its very supple in this mode.

    In the middle setting, a plunger is pushed down and blocks flow through the low speed circuit and runs only through the HSC shim stack. The main shim stack is linear (not preloaded) so it can flow oil pretty quickly with no real platform. This is supportive without being too harsh. You do lose some small bump sensitivity though. I used this setting most of the time.

    The lock out setting drops the plunger further and blocks flow to the main HSC shim stack. It redirects it to a secondary shim circuit that is highly preloaded that gives a very firm lock out. I personally never needed the lock out, but some people love having it.

    Overall, its a solid damper. I like the abs+ better because its more adjustable and I don't care about the lock out. I did make a modification to one of my vvt dampers I was testing that made it a little better. It involves using a file to flatten a small part of the plunger to allow a little bit of oil to flow through the low speed circuit in the "trail" setting. This allowed for increased support with better small bump sensitivity. As more VTT dampers make their way to the public, I may post how to do it on here. That assumes enough people complain about the stock damper to justify it.
  • 12-12-2019
    Aresab
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mullen119 View Post
    I spent a few months on it when it was in development. Its pretty good, just not as adjustable as the ABS+

    It has 3 flow paths for oil and works like this:

    Full open mode has a oil LSC circuit and HSC shim stack that flow oil. Its very supple in this mode.

    In the middle setting, a plunger is pushed down and blocks flow through the low speed circuit and runs only through the HSC shim stack. The main shim stack is linear (not preloaded) so it can flow oil pretty quickly with no real platform. This is supportive without being too harsh. You do lose some small bump sensitivity though. I used this setting most of the time.

    The lock out setting drops the plunger further and blocks flow to the main HSC shim stack. It redirects it to a secondary shim circuit that is highly preloaded that gives a very firm lock out. I personally never needed the lock out, but some people love having it.

    Overall, its a solid damper. I like the abs+ better because its more adjustable and I don't care about the lock out. I did make a modification to one of my vvt dampers I was testing that made it a little better. It involves using a file to flatten a small part of the plunger to allow a little bit of oil to flow through the low speed circuit in the "trail" setting. This allowed for increased support with better small bump sensitivity. As more VTT dampers make their way to the public, I may post how to do it on here. That assumes enough people complain about the stock damper to justify it.

    Great info, thank you. Iíve added it to my post in the Mastodon thread.
    Another question, I believe my Mastodon Pro does not have HBO like my Mattoc, neither did the ABS+ based comp (in the Mastodon but not sure of the Mattoc). Does the VTT based damper in either the Mattoc or the Mastodon retain the HBO?
  • 12-12-2019
    mullen119
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Aresab View Post
    Great info, thank you. Iíve added it to my post in the Mastodon thread.
    Another question, I believe my Mastodon Pro does not have HBO like my Mattoc, neither did the ABS+ based comp (in the Mastodon but not sure of the Mattoc). Does the VTT based damper in either the Mattoc or the Mastodon retain the HBO?

    Good question. Mastodons do not have HBO, test riders found it to be a unnecessary feature withe the riding fat bikes see. The Mattocs with abs+ do have HBO, but I'm not sure about the VTT Mattocs. I will look into it and report back on what went to production. (My versions did not, but I know versions with HBO existed during the testing phase)
  • 12-13-2019
    mullen119
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Aresab View Post
    Great info, thank you. Iíve added it to my post in the Mastodon thread.
    Another question, I believe my Mastodon Pro does not have HBO like my Mattoc, neither did the ABS+ based comp (in the Mastodon but not sure of the Mattoc). Does the VTT based damper in either the Mattoc or the Mastodon retain the HBO?

    MY18 has VTT with HBO

    MY19 does not have HBO
  • 12-24-2019
    celstark
    I just got a Mattoc Pro a few weeks ago, but noticed the date of manufacture is 2017/5/11. So, itís over 2 years out. Have I missed any updates on it? Anything to know?
  • 01-05-2020
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by celstark View Post
    I just got a Mattoc Pro a few weeks ago, but noticed the date of manufacture is 2017/5/11. So, itís over 2 years out. Have I missed any updates on it? Anything to know?

    Have a look here: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/forks/f...manitou-mattoc

    Externally IRT is the big giveaway for the Mattoc 3. All updates are backwards compatible.
  • 01-06-2020
    Derg33
    2016 mattoc expert bottoming out
    I'm wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what might be causing my forks to bottom out before I strip them down. I recently gave them a full service as they gave up the ghost on an uplift day. I lost most of my travel and wouldn't even rebound with the wheel off the ground. They were feeling great after the service but now after 7 or 8 rides this has happened.

    Any help or advice is much appreciated.

    Regards

    Martyn
  • 01-06-2020
    ColinL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Derg33 View Post
    I'm wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what might be causing my forks to bottom out before I strip them down. I recently gave them a full service as they gave up the ghost on an uplift day. I lost most of my travel and wouldn't even rebound with the wheel off the ground. They were feeling great after the service but now after 7 or 8 rides this has happened.

    Any help or advice is much appreciated.

    Regards

    Martyn

    well, first I would check the air pressure in the main chamber as well as the IRT if equipped. air pressure causes rebound - the rebound valve in the damper simply resists it.
  • 01-06-2020
    Dougal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Derg33 View Post
    I'm wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what might be causing my forks to bottom out before I strip them down. I recently gave them a full service as they gave up the ghost on an uplift day. I lost most of my travel and wouldn't even rebound with the wheel off the ground. They were feeling great after the service but now after 7 or 8 rides this has happened.

    Any help or advice is much appreciated.

    Regards

    Martyn

    Hard bottom-out or just not getting full travel?

    Not getting full travel is usually oil level too high in the damper. The fork hanging down in travel suggests worn/torn air spring seals which can happen on reassembly. There have been a couple of cases of hydraulic lock from too much oil damaging the damper on a hard compression.
  • 01-06-2020
    celstark
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Have a look here: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/forks/f...manitou-mattoc

    Externally IRT is the big giveaway for the Mattoc 3. All updates are backwards compatible.

    Thanks - I've got the IRT and the mudguard. I'm still about 10 pages away from going through this whole thread to get fully up to speed on all things Mattoc. Thanks for all you've done for us Dougal!

    FWIW, the only thing I noticed having pulled it apart a few times and ridden it a half dozen was that the lowers didn't drain more than a few drops. Cleaned, wiped, and filled with their semi-bath (had I gotten through more, I'd have just used my Fox gold) with 7mL per leg and foam rings soaked / wipers hit with Slickoleum.
  • 01-07-2020
    Derg33
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Hard bottom-out or just not getting full travel?

    Not getting full travel is usually oil level too high in the damper. The fork hanging down in travel suggests worn/torn air spring seals which can happen on reassembly. There have been a couple of cases of hydraulic lock from too much oil damaging the damper on a hard compression.

    Hard bottom out is how I'd describe it and I've never had these forks bottom out before. I did measure the oil level the same way I always have with a tool I made. Pretty sure I was careful enough on reassembly not to damage the seals but the forks sitting low in their travel was before I serviced them that doesn't seem to be a problem now just the bottoming out.

    Are the upgraded dampers still available for my forks? Maybe I might just try another damper service and if that doesn't work get the pro damper.

    Regards

    Martyn
  • 01-07-2020
    otsdr
    Maybe you measured the oil level and fitted the compression assy with the rebound rod slightly inserted - which would explain both the hard bottom-out (due to low oil level) and the forks sitting low in the travel (the rod would pull a vacuum when fully extended).
  • 01-17-2020
    will1994
    Hello, first time posting here. I was just wondering if anyone could help be determine the fork offset for a 2019 Mattoc Pro 27.5 'Boost' fork? Here is a URL to the fork in question: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...xoC3RsQAvD_BwE

    I emailed Manitou and a tech informed me that the 'Boost' 27.5 model has a 48mm offset, but this seems to conflict with the information given on their own website which (as far as I can tell) lists both the 27.5 BOOST and NON-BOOST model as both having a 44mm offset. The 48mm offset appears to be solely allocated to the 27.5 PLUS version of the fork.
    Would really appreciate it if someone could confirm my surmising. Thanks.
  • 01-17-2020
    mullen119
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by will1994 View Post
    Hello, first time posting here. I was just wondering if anyone could help be determine the fork offset for a 2019 Mattoc Pro 27.5 'Boost' fork? Here is a URL to the fork in question: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...xoC3RsQAvD_BwE

    I emailed Manitou and a tech informed me that the 'Boost' 27.5 model has a 48mm offset, but this seems to conflict with the information given on their own website which (as far as I can tell) lists both the 27.5 BOOST and NON-BOOST model as both having a 44mm offset. The 48mm offset appears to be solely allocated to the 27.5 PLUS version of the fork.
    Would really appreciate it if someone could confirm my surmising. Thanks.

    You are correct, 44mm for a 27.5.
  • 01-17-2020
    will1994
    Many thanks Mullen.