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  1. #1
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    F100X oil leaking question

    How much is too much leaking...

    after each of the few tough, rocky laps at 24 hours of adrenaline at whistler, i could see the right stanchion (looking in the direction of the ride) kind of oily, with no excessive amound of oil but nevertheless covered in thin, thin layer of oil. it attracts more debris and dirt during the ride...

    the shock is working fine, and it performed excellent at the race, but i dont know if i should send it in for repair or just finish the season and then send it iin...

    i do keep the bike upside down to keep all the seals oiled etc...

    thanks in advance...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    How much is too much leaking...

    after each of the few tough, rocky laps at 24 hours of adrenaline at whistler, i could see the right stanchion (looking in the direction of the ride) kind of oily, with no excessive amound of oil but nevertheless covered in thin, thin layer of oil. it attracts more debris and dirt during the ride...

    the shock is working fine, and it performed excellent at the race, but i dont know if i should send it in for repair or just finish the season and then send it iin...

    i do keep the bike upside down to keep all the seals oiled etc...

    thanks in advance...
    My 3-week old F100X began spewing oil from the right damper-side leg's main oil seal during the TransRockies a couple weeks ago. Mine too worked perfectly, but since I had already bought a set of the Enduro seals, I installed them yesterday. Now, no more leaks!

    I definitely would not sit on the fork and do nothing. If the problem is allowed to go on, you risk seriously damaging the fork's internals, etc. Either send it in to Fox or install some Enduros.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  3. #3
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    Mike, thanks for your response...

    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    My 3-week old F100X began spewing oil from the right damper-side leg's main oil seal during the TransRockies a couple weeks ago. Mine too worked perfectly, but since I had already bought a set of the Enduro seals, I installed them yesterday. Now, no more leaks!

    I definitely would not sit on the fork and do nothing. If the problem is allowed to go on, you risk seriously damaging the fork's internals, etc. Either send it in to Fox or install some Enduros.
    can i install Enduro seals myself?

    i am pretty good mechanically ( i build frames that i buy) but never played with the fork itself (never replaced oil or anything at all).


    thanks for your help...

    Oggie

  4. #4
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    I had my bike shop install them (Enduros) on my F100x with the same problem as yours. The Enduro website has install instructions that are very good if you want to try it yourself. BTW they are great seals, no more leaks or whatever that little film of oil was.
    antonio

  5. #5
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    thanks guys

    Quote Originally Posted by djkellycx
    I had my bike shop install them (Enduros) on my F100x with the same problem as yours. The Enduro website has install instructions that are very good if you want to try it yourself. BTW they are great seals, no more leaks or whatever that little film of oil was.
    spoke with the guy at enduro seals and will be ordering set asap...

  6. #6
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    Hi Guys,

    Does the F100X 2005 already using this Enduro seal, I'm wanted to get one of this fork but always have a reservations because of this oil leaking issues???

  7. #7
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    Enduro seals are aftermarket.. Its been a great fork other than the oily film/leak. Maybe for 2005 Fox has fixed the problem. Just wait to see if you have a problem 1st, but I'd say don't worry. Good luck!
    antonio

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkellycx
    Enduro seals are aftermarket.. Its been a great fork other than the oily film/leak. Maybe for 2005 Fox has fixed the problem. Just wait to see if you have a problem 1st, but I'd say don't worry. Good luck!

    Does it mean that I better go ahead and get that 2004 model on my LBS at a discount price, since the oil leak can be easily fix with this aftermarket Enduro seals

  9. #9
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    Depends how cheap it is. Not everyone has a problem I bet. So maybe if its cheap enough it would be a great deal.
    antonio

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullit_cn
    Does it mean that I better go ahead and get that 2004 model on my LBS at a discount price, since the oil leak can be easily fix with this aftermarket Enduro seals
    The 05 F100X is not worth the extra $$$ over the 04. In fact, I bet you could put the 05 stickers on the 04 and no one would know.

    Fox says there should be a small amount of oil on the stanchion from the libearlly lubed foam donut, but many are having outright leaks. Mine was kinda leaky (haha) for about 8 months and then just blew up.
    Changing seals is a 15 minute job. Don't be afraid of the fork's internals. Changed my oem Fox seals and have had zero issues in the past 3 months.
    Last edited by danK; 09-06-2004 at 08:06 PM. Reason: more info

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    can i install Enduro seals myself?

    i am pretty good mechanically ( i build frames that i buy) but never played with the fork itself (never replaced oil or anything at all).


    thanks for your help...

    Oggie
    I installed mine myself. It doesn't take too much and is actually quite easy. I admit, I was a little intimidated by the Fox F100X, having never gutted a Fox before, let alone a TerraLogic fork. But, if you take your time, it's not too bad.

    Just make sure you have:
    1 - 26mm socket or wrench. Very hard size socket to find.
    2 - seal press or something with an approximately 40mm outer diameter that you can use to evenly press the seals in.
    3 - Fox Suspension Fluid (7.5wt). I couldn't find any locally, so I went with the highly recommended Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid ($17CDN for 1L).
    4 - Fox Suspension Float Fluid. Again, I couldn't find any locally, so I went with some Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant ($9 for 1L).

    And, it's going to be messy. There's a lot of oil in the Fox legs, so make sure you have a bucket to empty the right (damper) leg.

    I'm going to be installing another set in my F80X and I will try and document the steps with detailed pics and instructions.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  12. #12
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    Fixed at Fox

    I sent my F100X in to Fox after calling their support. I believe it was something like $60 to get the fork sealed changed along with a cleaning and tuneup.

    So the new seal seems to be better as I too was getting a light stream of oil down the right leg. With the new seal, there's still a light film (as described above), but definitely not leaking as much as before. From talking with the Fox guys at Sea Otter, the forks from last year suffered from having too loose a seal.

    This Enduro seal you are all installing sounds really good however.
    Question to a custom frame builder..."So what makes your bikes climb better?"....his answer, "Uh, your legs?"

  13. #13
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    Bs

    Quote Originally Posted by HTail
    I sent my F100X in to Fox after calling their support. I believe it was something like $60 to get the fork sealed changed along with a cleaning and tuneup.

    So the new seal seems to be better as I too was getting a light stream of oil down the right leg. With the new seal, there's still a light film (as described above), but definitely not leaking as much as before. From talking with the Fox guys at Sea Otter, the forks from last year suffered from having too loose a seal.

    This Enduro seal you are all installing sounds really good however.
    Fox tried to charge me for seal replacement also. They blamed it on typical wear and tear. My mechanic who is very experienced, took the fork apart and disagreed with their assesment that dirt was trapped between the seal and the stanchion. It also helped that he works for a large shop. The fork was sent to Fox and the inertia valve was the culprit according to Fox. I broke that fork when I drove into a parking garage and I promptly ordered another to place on my Blur because when the fork works, it works very well. That new 2005 fork has started leaking on the right only after about 30 rides, if that. I replaced the lowers on the older fork and had it installed on my backup. That fork has held up, but I only used for a few rides. When I bought that fork last winter and the inertia valve was always difficult to release, however over time it did seem to break in. That fork when when returned from Fox was much more seamless in transition from lockout to engagement than when I first purchased it. Obviously I am going to return the 2005 fork. I may try the Enduro seals in the future if the seals fail again.

  14. #14
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    So same question, but for Fox Float 80RL

    I just finished a ride on Monday where I noticed I had a thin slick of oil on the back of both stanchions. Should I also look into an enduro seal set? I have heard of these forks leaking sooner or later and was kind of expecting it, but I've only had the bike for about 6 weeks. (Granted I have put about 400kms on it in that time...)
    If you're ever in Calgary, here are the bike shops I like:
    Single Track Cycle
    The Bike Shop
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Th' Mule
    I just finished a ride on Monday where I noticed I had a thin slick of oil on the back of both stanchions. Should I also look into an enduro seal set? I have heard of these forks leaking sooner or later and was kind of expecting it, but I've only had the bike for about 6 weeks. (Granted I have put about 400kms on it in that time...)
    Get the Enduros, gut the stock seals, install and forget! I love mine on my F100X...which had it's seals removed after ~6-weeks.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  16. #16
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    Mike, any documentation yet?

    i have to send my fork in to be repaired under warranty.... if that doesnt fix it, i will install Enduro seals (i got them already).

    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    I installed mine myself. It doesn't take too much and is actually quite easy. I admit, I was a little intimidated by the Fox F100X, having never gutted a Fox before, let alone a TerraLogic fork. But, if you take your time, it's not too bad.

    Just make sure you have:
    1 - 26mm socket or wrench. Very hard size socket to find.
    2 - seal press or something with an approximately 40mm outer diameter that you can use to evenly press the seals in.
    3 - Fox Suspension Fluid (7.5wt). I couldn't find any locally, so I went with the highly recommended Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid ($17CDN for 1L).
    4 - Fox Suspension Float Fluid. Again, I couldn't find any locally, so I went with some Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant ($9 for 1L).

    And, it's going to be messy. There's a lot of oil in the Fox legs, so make sure you have a bucket to empty the right (damper) leg.

    I'm going to be installing another set in my F80X and I will try and document the steps with detailed pics and instructions.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    i have to send my fork in to be repaired under warranty.... if that doesnt fix it, i will install Enduro seals (i got them already).
    Unfortunately, not yet. I've been way too busy (family, work, riding, life, etc.) to get the Enduros installed on my F80X...and it's really starting to spew oil, so it will be sooner than later, but I've been riding my RX with F100X lately (what a blast!) so I've really needed to do it on my SS. We had a nice break in the weather over the last couple of weeks and with the snow quickly approaching, any opportunity I had to get out, I did. I was out 9 out of 10 days over the last 2-weeks

    Send you fork back and have it warranteed...then, install the Enduros. I'm not sure what Fox would say if they saw the aftermarket seals installed...I wouldn't want to chance it.

    If you have any questions, feel free to PM or email me and I'll do my best to help you.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  18. #18

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    Enduro seals = upright storage?

    I've got a 2005 F100 RLT. I have followed the instructions and store the bike upside down. My question is, if you install the Enduro seals, do you still need to do this? Also how many of you actually store your fork like this?

    Thanks,

    Robin

  19. #19
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    You do not have to store the bike upside down with the Enduro seals.

    Maybe for 2005 Fox has fixed the problem. Just wait to see if you have a problem 1st, but I'd say don't worry. Good luck!<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
    And no, they haven't fixed the problem. My 2005 F100X leaked after about a month. The Enduro seals are the only way to go!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    Get the Enduros, gut the stock seals, install and forget! I love mine on my F100X...which had it's seals removed after ~6-weeks.
    Cheers, will do...
    If you're ever in Calgary, here are the bike shops I like:
    Single Track Cycle
    The Bike Shop
    Calgary Cycle

  21. #21
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    Just turn it over before you ride.

    Quote Originally Posted by thebomb1
    I've got a 2005 F100 RLT. I have followed the instructions and store the bike upside down. My question is, if you install the Enduro seals, do you still need to do this? Also how many of you actually store your fork like this?

    Thanks,

    Robin
    I recommend with any oil bath fork (open or semi) to turn the bike upside down (just stand it up on the back wheel and rotate it over until the fork oil can run up to the bushings) for a few seconds just before riding. Although plenty of oil will splash up to the bushings once you are riding, inverting the fork before riding will prevent starting out your ride dry (with no oil film between the stanchions and bushings). I don't think it really matters whether your bike has been inverted for thirty seconds or thirty days before the ride. Oh, and once you have seals that keep the oil in, I still recommend Stanchion Lube be applied before about every third ride (if you are a die-hard proponent of another lube, that's fine).

    Some people with hydraulic brakes freak out about inverting their bikes because of air bubbles possibly traveling up to the reservoirs. Personally, I don't see how this is possible if you have properly bled the brakes (and if it is, well, there's one more reason to stick with Avid Mechs).

    -Chris

  22. #22
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    Mike...

    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    Unfortunately, not yet. I've been way too busy (family, work, riding, life, etc.) to get the Enduros installed on my F80X...and it's really starting to spew oil, so it will be sooner than later, but I've been riding my RX with F100X lately (what a blast!) so I've really needed to do it on my SS. We had a nice break in the weather over the last couple of weeks and with the snow quickly approaching, any opportunity I had to get out, I did. I was out 9 out of 10 days over the last 2-weeks

    Send you fork back and have it warranteed...then, install the Enduros. I'm not sure what Fox would say if they saw the aftermarket seals installed...I wouldn't want to chance it.

    If you have any questions, feel free to PM or email me and I'll do my best to help you.
    after speaking with Fox techs, they told me that Enduro seals will stop oil leakage at the expense of more friction and less stanchion lubrication, which in their explanation was not good either. I have a dilemma now. Do I send Enduro seals together with my fork to Velocycle and let them install them or do i just let them install OEM seals under warranty.

    ALso, is it worth $211.00 CDN upgrading the cartridge to 2005? labour is all free (warranty).

    thanks for your insight...

    Oggie

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    after speaking with Fox techs, they told me that Enduro seals will stop oil leakage at the expense of more friction and less stanchion lubrication, which in their explanation was not good either. I have a dilemma now. Do I send Enduro seals together with my fork to Velocycle and let them install them or do i just let them install OEM seals under warranty.

    ALso, is it worth $211.00 CDN upgrading the cartridge to 2005? labour is all free (warranty).

    thanks for your insight...

    Oggie
    Hippietech Suspensions told me the Enduro seals are not worth it for the F100X. That said, he makes his business of having Fox in his hip pocket and selling Fox parts. I replaced my stock seals about 5 months ago, give or take, and they have been perfect since. $15, took 10 minutes, can't be beat. If/when my seals go out, I'm not stupid enough to put another $15 of Fox goods in my fork; it's like getting dumped by a girl and then taking her back so she can do it again.

    As for the $211 cdn upgrade forthe 05 cartridge: no, it's not worth it in my opinion. Many are rushing out to scoop up the 04 at a "bargain" since the change to the 05 is pretty much bold new graphics, a cartridge thats grams lighter and a claim of better performance that is just that, a claim. I couldn't tell any diff from my 04 to the 05 I rode all day.

    My next fork will not be an F100X. Not worth it to me.
    Last edited by danK; 10-16-2004 at 10:41 AM.

  24. #24
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    With all due respect to Fox they're WRONG.

    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    after speaking with Fox techs, they told me that Enduro seals will stop oil leakage at the expense of more friction and less stanchion lubrication, which in their explanation was not good either. I have a dilemma now. Do I send Enduro seals together with my fork to Velocycle and let them install them or do i just let them install OEM seals under warranty.

    ALso, is it worth $211.00 CDN upgrading the cartridge to 2005? labour is all free (warranty).

    thanks for your insight...

    Oggie
    Let someone at Fox back up their statements with facts. We've got hundreds of forks in the field with Enduros that prove they work with NO complaints of stiction and NO evidence of lubrications problems. It's too bad that factory reps have to spout the company line like robots. They naturally tend to discourage anything that is provided after-market. As for stanchion lubrication, which makes more sense: allowing oil to leak by from inside, or applying lube from the outside before riding?

    -Chris

  25. #25
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    10min?

    Quote Originally Posted by danK
    Hippietech Suspensions told me the Enduro seals are not worth it for the F100X. I replaced my stock seals about 5 months ago, give or take, and they have been perfect since. $15, took 10 minutes, can't be beat.

    As for the $211 cdn upgrade forthe 05 cartridge: no, it's not worth it in my opinion. Many are rushing out to scoop up the 04 at a "bargain" since the change to the 05 is pretty much bold new graphics, a cartridge thats grams lighter and a claim of better performance that is just that, a claim. I couldn't tell any diff from my 04 to the 05 I rode all day.

    My next fork will not be an F100X. Not worth it to me.
    between you and Mike, someone should come up with the instructions on how to do this step by step. C'mon guys! Help us out...

    I've never done oil change in my shocks, but i'd like to be able to do it myself... thanks in advance.

    Apparently they did make the cartridge a bit slimmer and lighter, but even Fox is saying that weight saving is not significant, but the performance is improved... i am still debating that move. What is the life of the cartridge anyway? i have only 1 season on mine... I guess oil leakage is due to seals and has nothing to do with the cartridge...

    if you dont go with the F100X in the future, what fork will it be then. I loved the way F100X performed for me last summer...

    Oggie

  26. #26
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    Good point Chris

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    Let someone at Fox back up their statements with facts. We've got hundreds of forks in the field with Enduros that prove they work with NO complaints of stiction and NO evidence of lubrications problems. It's too bad that factory reps have to spout the company line like robots. They naturally tend to discourage anything that is provided after-market. As for stanchion lubrication, which makes more sense: allowing oil to leak by from inside, or applying lube from the outside before riding?

    -Chris
    Between satisfied users and Fox rhetoric, I would always trust the users, no doubt.

    At first, the argument from Fox was "if you dont use Fox parts, the warranty is void" but now that the warranty expires, i dont care...

    i'd rather have a non-leaky fork and use stanchion lubricants from time to time than gunked out, greasy fork that is "lubricated" properly according to Fox...

    I guess it should be a no brainer to install Enduro seals.

    now i just have to decide on the 05 cartridge upgrade...

  27. #27
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    OK. Send me your fork and I'll make the instructions.

    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    between you and Mike, someone should come up with the instructions on how to do this step by step. C'mon guys! Help us out...

    I've never done oil change in my shocks, but i'd like to be able to do it myself... thanks in advance.
    Oggie
    For the cost of shipping I'll service your fork and install Enduros. This will allow me to make the step-by-step instructions you want. I have put out a lot of money lately and can't afford to buy one of these for making instructions. PM me if you are interested.

    -Chris

  28. #28
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    Chris, that is a fantastic offer...

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    For the cost of shipping I'll service your fork and install Enduros. This will allow me to make the step-by-step instructions you want. I have put out a lot of money lately and can't afford to buy one of these for making instructions. PM me if you are interested.

    -Chris
    If i weren't located in Canada, i'd have jumped all over it. Being in Canada, it makes shipping a bit of a hassle, particularly with this part that includes oil etc...

    I hope someone else jumps on this offer and allows you to help the whole community with instructions... That would be great!!

    again, i really appreciate your offer.

  29. #29
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    Yep. That's true.

    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    If i weren't located in Canada, i'd have jumped all over it. Being in Canada, it makes shipping a bit of a hassle, particularly with this part that includes oil etc...

    I hope someone else jumps on this offer and allows you to help the whole community with instructions... That would be great!!

    again, i really appreciate your offer.
    Shipping small stuff to Canada is no hassle--we have lots of customers up there. I ship USPS which eliminates the border brokerage BS entirely, but I don't know how much of a hassle it is shipping from there to here... If you are not able to take me up on the offer, I suppose it's open to the first claimant (the bottom line is getting the instructions up). ***EDIT: Offer taken. Please allow a couple of weeks to get the pictorial instructions posted. END EDIT***

    -Chris
    Last edited by Chris2fur; 10-16-2004 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Update the fact that the offer is taken.

  30. #30
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    I should clarify. The first time I did it I was so afraid to ruin the $800 fork that I spent about an hour making sure everything was done right. As soon as getting in, I saw that the F100X is not only a very simple fork but also a case of intense marketing: there's nothing to it!

    Wanna know the toughest part of tearing the fork apart? Remembering to unscrew the bottom bolts out ONLY 3 or 4 turns before tapping the cartridge up. One of my friends unscrewed the bolts almost all the way out, tapped it with a rubber mallet and pretty darn near stripped the fragile threads. THAT's when you realize you may have blown some serious $$$ on a 50 cent nut.

    This is not an official "how to" method, but here is the basic operation of how to take apart your F100X after it's off the bike.

    Let air out left leg, take left top bolt off (it's the 26mm one, if you don't have 26mm 6-point wrench, a careful hand can do it with a crescent without stripping), turn upside down and unscrew nut on bottom of fork (left, still) 3 or 4 turns, whack with rubber mallet. Air cartridge falls in, use screwdriver to gently push it up. About a total of 40cc of oil will come out the top of the fork. You now have the air cartridge in your hand.

    Moving to the right side, take rebound knob off, take top right bolt off. Oil comes out. Lots of it. Turn upside down. Repeat 3-4 turn/mallet/whack of bottom bolt, and push up with screwdriver. Inertia valve comes out.

    As for the seals, they are stuck in the fork legs. Remove metal stretchy thing (see, I am so 'technical' hahaha), pry up seals, remove foam ring. Clean out fork legs. This is where things get "tricky": when you put the new Fox or Enduro seals in, you must remember to put things back on in reverse order. Yes, I did not and had to take everything off because I had things backwards. Add 5 minuts to the original 10 minute process if you are an idiot.

    Now, with everything I've said, things are easier said than done. I did not tell you about the mess you may have when oil misses the drain bucket you did not have under the fork when taking things apart. I did not tell you how the crescent wrench slipped and rounded off the bolt you should have had a 6-point 26mm head for (another friend did this bad!), and I did not tell you the reverse procedure to put oil in/cycle inertia valve, etc. This was the basics of getting the fork apart and yanking the seals out.

    I am not an expert like Chris2fur or the nice folks at EnduroSeals. I would trust them over me anyday. Smile.


    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    between you and Mike, someone should come up with the instructions on how to do this step by step. C'mon guys! Help us out...

    I've never done oil change in my shocks, but i'd like to be able to do it myself... thanks in advance.

    Apparently they did make the cartridge a bit slimmer and lighter, but even Fox is saying that weight saving is not significant, but the performance is improved... i am still debating that move. What is the life of the cartridge anyway? i have only 1 season on mine... I guess oil leakage is due to seals and has nothing to do with the cartridge...

    if you dont go with the F100X in the future, what fork will it be then. I loved the way F100X performed for me last summer...

    Oggie

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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    Between satisfied users and Fox rhetoric, I would always trust the users, no doubt.

    At first, the argument from Fox was "if you dont use Fox parts, the warranty is void" but now that the warranty expires, i dont care...

    i'd rather have a non-leaky fork and use stanchion lubricants from time to time than gunked out, greasy fork that is "lubricated" properly according to Fox...

    I guess it should be a no brainer to install Enduro seals.

    now i just have to decide on the 05 cartridge upgrade...
    You asked in another post what I'd get after the F100X. I dunno. I am 165 pounds, race xc and have a ton of experience in suspension (from my motocross background and dad being a suspension "guru", hahaha, but it's true) and all I know is that the F100X is an average-performing linear-rate fork after the initial "cool, it doesn't move that much" threshold is broken.

    The ID sounds good in terms of performance, and maybe I'd stick that in a 32mm fork. But it's a lot of money to get not much more performance than the X although I hear it offers a progressive rate instead of the X's boing boing when in the meat of the travel. Don't quote me on the ID's performance cuz I've never used one.

    And yes, Fox ain't gonna tell you that EnduroSeals, or anything else, works. Why would they? Give the choice of 15 bucks for stock Fox seals or $8 more for Enduros, it's a no brainer (don't forget to add in s/h, and the fact that Fox rarely answers phones and NEVER emails).

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    Between satisfied users and Fox rhetoric, I would always trust the users, no doubt.

    At first, the argument from Fox was "if you dont use Fox parts, the warranty is void" but now that the warranty expires, i dont care...

    i'd rather have a non-leaky fork and use stanchion lubricants from time to time than gunked out, greasy fork that is "lubricated" properly according to Fox...

    I guess it should be a no brainer to install Enduro seals.

    now i just have to decide on the 05 cartridge upgrade...
    It's your money, but I'd rather dig a hole in the backyard and put that $211 (cdn) in it. At least I'd know where it went, and could get it back when something better and more worthwhile comes out. If someone demanded I tell them how much better the 05 X works than the 04 X, I'd say, "Maybe 1%, if that." It's pure marketing and buyer euphoria. I spend that much on an 05 F100X and I WILL think it's better. End of rant.

  33. #33
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    heh, you guys are good...

    Quote Originally Posted by danK
    It's your money, but I'd rather dig a hole in the backyard and put that $211 (cdn) in it. At least I'd know where it went, and could get it back when something better and more worthwhile comes out. If someone demanded I tell them how much better the 05 X works than the 04 X, I'd say, "Maybe 1%, if that." It's pure marketing and buyer euphoria. I spend that much on an 05 F100X and I WILL think it's better. End of rant.
    i love this list for it...

    yep, it is hard to argue your points...

    You and Chris perfectly played a role of Devil's Advocates, exactly what i needed to be able to make an educated decision...

    thanks again.

  34. #34
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    Fox tuneups

    Quote Originally Posted by abscar
    That fork when when returned from Fox was much more seamless in transition from lockout to engagement than when I first purchased it. Obviously I am going to return the 2005 fork. I may try the Enduro seals in the future if the seals fail again.
    When I returned my fork to Fox, they changed out some internal components for revised versions. Same thing that I experienced, smoother transition from lock-out. Before you have this noticible stick, then movement- now it's pretty seamless. Just the same, it doesn't seem as locked out as before which is sort of a compromise between the two states I guess? Either way, the right stantion still gets mucked up more than the other, but so far not streaming oil down the leg like before.
    Question to a custom frame builder..."So what makes your bikes climb better?"....his answer, "Uh, your legs?"

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by HTail
    When I returned my fork to Fox, they changed out some internal components for revised versions. Same thing that I experienced, smoother transition from lock-out. Before you have this noticible stick, then movement- now it's pretty seamless. Just the same, it doesn't seem as locked out as before which is sort of a compromise between the two states I guess? Either way, the right stantion still gets mucked up more than the other, but so far not streaming oil down the leg like before.
    My friend has the F80X and returned it Fox and he said the same thing you did: fork seems to have more sag or dive than the older verions/pre-Fox tuneup no matter the threshold. It still acts stable while seated and climbing, and does bob a tiny tiny bit when standing (normal), but he swears it has more brake dive. Maybe the old "on-off" feel kept things up in the travel. I dunno, but now he jokes that his F80X acts like a good $400 fork who thinks it's a $800 fork part-time.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    If i weren't located in Canada, i'd have jumped all over it. Being in Canada, it makes shipping a bit of a hassle, particularly with this part that includes oil etc...

    I hope someone else jumps on this offer and allows you to help the whole community with instructions... That would be great!!

    again, i really appreciate your offer.
    ....just in from a ride. Wow, it was slick...very wet leaves, but still a blast.

    I know I mentioned that I'd try and get a set of instructions together for the F80X/F100X, but I've just been way too busy with life (kids, family, work) and riding. Plus, now that I've got my RX-100 back-up and running (dead FSA BB, torn-off X.0 RD, etc.), I'm having too much fun riding it to go back on my SS (with the F80X that needs the seals installed) just yet!

    The weather is going to start getting pretty bad soon as we transition into winter. With the wet and cold temps coming, I'm sure I'll have some time shortly to finally install the Enduros into my F80X.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    ....just in from a ride. Wow, it was slick...very wet leaves, but still a blast.

    I know I mentioned that I'd try and get a set of instructions together for the F80X/F100X, but I've just been way too busy with life (kids, family, work) and riding. Plus, now that I've got my RX-100 back-up and running (dead FSA BB, torn-off X.0 RD, etc.), I'm having too much fun riding it to go back on my SS (with the F80X that needs the seals installed) just yet!

    The weather is going to start getting pretty bad soon as we transition into winter. With the wet and cold temps coming, I'm sure I'll have some time shortly to finally install the Enduros into my F80X.
    That's what I need to do: get off my lazy Saturday morning (now noon???) butt and go ride. My fork leaves for Chris2fur on Monday, and he'll writeup the F100X/80X installation. I'm excited.

  38. #38
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    I have a 2005 F100X which started leaking only after a month. I put the enduro seals in and bought some Finishline Stanction lube and the results are great. I feel the fork actually has less stiction than it was stock (though some of this could be because of break-in). The lube is worth it in that it lubes the stanctions EXTERNALLY, and seems to shed water and dust unlike the 7.5 wt. oozing out the stock seals.

  39. #39
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    I have had both a 2005 and 2004 F100X on my 5th Element Blur. I can not tell the difference between the two model years. Both leaked. The 2005 performed well out of the box and the 2004 performed well after it was returned for a leaking seal. I had my mechanic install Enduros and admittedly after only one ride they worked flawlessly. I thought there was more stiction, but it was just my lockout working like it should. Overall I like Fox products even though one could argue that they are overpriced. I am assuming that the right sided seal can not handle the instantaneous pressures generated by the release of the inertia valve. Even if my assumption is wrong, the fork does not work reliably in real world situations without the Enduro seals. One good thing about purchasing through my LBS is obviously I do not have to deal with Fox directly.

  40. #40
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    F80X/F100X Enduro Seal Installation Instructions

    I finally got around to installing my Enduros into my F80X...unfortunately, my camera's batteries were dead, so I couldn't snap any pictures of the actual installation. But, the following steps should outline everything I did.

    Having already done my F100X a couple months ago, the F80X was pretty easy and straight-forward. Total installation time was less than 30 minutes and was very, very easy.

    F80X/F100X Enduro Seal Installation Instructions

    Left-side Disassembly:
    1. Turn Rebound adjuster dial full -ve.
    2. Remove air cap on left-side and release all air from air chamber.
    3. With a 26mm socket, remove air cap from fork. Compress fork. Drain oil from upper left air chamber.
    4. With a 10mm wrench, loosen the lower left-side nut 5-6 turns.
    5. Invert fork. With a plastic faced hammer, gently tap the lower nut. You will hear and feel when the lower leg separates from the air cartridge assembly. Once the air cartridge shaft is separated from the lower leg, remove the lower nut and crush washer. Check the crush washer for damage.
    6. With a small screwdriver, gently push the end of the air cartridge assembly into the lower fork leg. Place an oil drain pan under the fork, flip fork right-side-up and drain all oil from lower left leg.
    7. With a long, thin screwdriver, gently push the end of the air cartridge assembly out of the top of left-side. Clean air cartridge assembly.

    Right-side Disassembly:
    1. Turn lower blue Bump Threshold adjuster dial full -ve.
    2. With a 2mm hex key, loosen and remove the blue Bump Threshold dial.
    3. With a 10mm wrench, loosen the lower right-side nut 5-6 turns. Ensure that the exposed tip of the TerraLogic cartridge shaft adjuster dial is protected by the top of the nut.
    4. Invert fork. With a plastic faced hammer, gently tap the lower nut. You will hear and feel when the lower leg separates from the TerraLogic cartridge assembly. Once the TerraLogic cartridge shaft is separated from the lower leg, remove the lower nut and crush washer. Check the crush washer for damage.
    5. With a small screwdriver, gently push the end of the TerraLogic cartridge assembly into the fork leg. Place an oil drain pan under the fork, flip fork right-side-up and drain all oil from lower right leg.
    6. With a 26mm socket, remove the rebound cap and empty oil from right-side leg.
    7. With a long, thin screwdriver, gently push the end of the TerraLogic cartridge assembly out of the top of right-side. Clean TerraLogic cartridge assembly.
    8. Holding the TerraLogic cartridge over the oil drain pan, cycle the cartridge to remove all oil. Also, turn the rebound and TerraLogic dials from full -ve to full +ve, and vice versa while cycling the cartridge.

    Removal of Stock Seals and Installation of new Enduro Seals:
    1. Put the new Enduro seals into the freezer. This will cause the seals to slightly contract, which will make the installation slightly easier.
    2. With a large, flat-blade screwdriver, gently pry off the stock Fox seals and foam o-rings from the leg assembly. Care should be taken to not damage the top of the legs.
    3. Thoroughly clean the internals of the leg assembly. Check bushings for wear and replace if necessary.
    4. Remove one set of seals (main = blue and oil = black) from the freezer and lubricate the outer circumferences of each.
    5. Gently and firmly press-in the new oil (black) seal into the top of the lower leg. Ensure that the seal goes in straight and is fully-seated.
    6. Gently and firmly press-in the new main (blue) seal into the top of the lower leg above the new oil (black) seal. Ensure that the seal goes in straight and is fully-seated.
    7. Repeat in other leg.

    Left-side Re-Assembly:
    1. Gently slide the stanchion assembly into the lower assembly. Care should be exercised to ensure that the seals are not damaged. Be gentle when pushing the stanchion assembly into the seals. Once engaged, slowly slide the stanchion assembly all the way on.
    2. Apply a thin film of Fox Float Suspension Fluid (or Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant) to the outer circumference of the air piston seal.
    3. Slide the left-side air cartridge assembly into the top of the left leg. Gently push the top black rubber piston so that the lower air cartridge shaft protrudes from the lower leg.
    4. Add 5cc of Float Suspension Fluid (or Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant) to the top of the left leg.
    5. With a 26mm socket, install air cap.
    6. Invert fork and add 30cc of Fox 7.5wt Fully Synthetic Suspension Fluid (Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid) into the bottom of the left leg. You may need to use the screwdriver to gently push the air cartridge shaft back into the leg.
    7. Now, while keeping the fork horizontal, inflate the left-side air chamber to 50psi. This will cause the air cartridge shaft to extend out of the lower leg. Now, gently press-on the crush washer. It will likely only go past 1-2 threads on the shaft. This will make it hard to thread-on the lower nut. If so, flip the lower nut and thread it on backwards. This allows the nut to engage easier with only a few threads showing. Tighten the inverted nut until the crush washer has been pushed sufficiently down the shaft. Loosen the nut and re-install correctly. Torque to 50 in-lbs.

    Right-side Re-Assembly:
    1. Extend TerraLogic cartridge damper rod to full length and install top cap by engaging 1-2 turns. Make sure that the Rebound and TerraLogic dials are at their original settings (i.e., full -ve).
    2. Install the crush washer and lower nut. The crush washer will likely only go past 1-2 threads on the shaft. This will make it hard to thread-on the lower nut. If so, flip the lower nut and thread it on backwards. This allows the nut to engage easier with only a few threads showing. Tighten the inverted nut until the crush washer has been pushed sufficiently down the shaft. Loosen the nut and re-install correctly. Torque to 50 in-lbs.
    3. Align the 2mm set-screw in the blue Bump Threshold dial with the drilled-out groove on the TerraLogic lower shaft.
    4. Unscrew the damper top cap and compress the fork.
    5. Pour 155cc of Fox 7.5wt Fully Synthetic Suspension Fluid (Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid) into the upper leg. While adding the fluid, gently cycle the rebound/TerraLogic cartridge, as well as, cycling the fork. Also, vary the rebound and Bump Threshold settings from full -ve to full +ve, and vice versa. This will ensure the cartridge is properly filled.
    6. With a 26mm socket, tighten damper top cap to 165 in-lbs.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  41. #41
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    Very nice.

    Mike, I have cut and pasted your (very good) instructions and added just a couple of notes that may be helpful, or just may be personal preference. My notes will be in red italics.


    (Start Mike's Instructions)
    F80X/F100X Enduro Seal Installation Instructions

    Left-side Disassembly:
    1. Turn Rebound adjuster dial full -ve.
    (Note from Chris: I usually do step 4 before step 2, since having the air chamber pressurized can help keep the rod from spinning with the lower fixing nut)
    2. Remove air cap on left-side and release all air from air chamber.
    3. With a 26mm socket, remove air cap from fork. Compress fork. Drain oil from upper left air chamber.
    4. With a 10mm wrench, loosen the lower left-side nut 5-6 turns.
    5. Invert fork. With a plastic faced hammer, gently tap the lower nut. You will hear and feel when the lower leg separates from the air cartridge assembly. Once the air cartridge shaft is separated from the lower leg, remove the lower nut and crush washer. Check the crush washer for damage.
    6. With a small screwdriver, gently push the end of the air cartridge assembly into the lower fork leg. Place an oil drain pan under the fork, flip fork right-side-up and drain all oil from lower left leg.
    7. With a long, thin screwdriver, gently push the end of the air cartridge assembly out of the top of left-side. Clean air cartridge assembly.

    Right-side Disassembly:
    1. Turn lower blue Bump Threshold adjuster dial full -ve.
    2. With a 2mm hex key, loosen and remove the blue Bump Threshold dial.
    3. With a 10mm wrench, loosen the lower right-side nut 5-6 turns. Ensure that the exposed tip of the TerraLogic cartridge shaft adjuster dial is protected by the top of the nut.
    4. Invert fork. With a plastic faced hammer, gently tap the lower nut. You will hear and feel when the lower leg separates from the TerraLogic cartridge assembly. Once the TerraLogic cartridge shaft is separated from the lower leg, remove the lower nut and crush washer. Check the crush washer for damage.
    5. With a small screwdriver, gently push the end of the TerraLogic cartridge assembly into the fork leg. Place an oil drain pan under the fork, flip fork right-side-up and drain all oil from lower right leg.
    6. With a 26mm socket, remove the rebound cap and empty oil from right-side leg.
    7. With a long, thin screwdriver, gently push the end of the TerraLogic cartridge assembly out of the top of right-side. Clean TerraLogic cartridge assembly.
    8. Holding the TerraLogic cartridge over the oil drain pan, cycle the cartridge to remove all oil. Also, turn the rebound and TerraLogic dials from full -ve to full +ve, and vice versa while cycling the cartridge.

    Removal of Stock Seals and Installation of new Enduro Seals:
    1. Put the new Enduro seals into the freezer. This will cause the seals to slightly contract, which will make the installation slightly easier. (Note from Chris: I recommend only the wipers be put in the freezer. The black inner oil seals should go into the lowers easily enough without the freezer, and I'm also afraid that the material will be brittle and easier to damage)
    2. With a large, flat-blade screwdriver, gently pry off the stock Fox seals and foam o-rings from the leg assembly. Care should be taken to not damage the top of the legs.
    3. Thoroughly clean the internals of the leg assembly. Check bushings for wear and replace if necessary.
    4. Remove one set of seals (main = blue and oil = black) from the freezer and lubricate the outer circumferences of each.
    5. Gently and firmly press-in the new oil (black) seal into the top of the lower leg. Ensure that the seal goes in straight and is fully-seated. (Note from Chris: It is very important to note that Fox does not machine the top of the lowers all the way down to the bushings. Take care to only seat the inner oil seals to the bottom of the machined area, NOT all the way on top of the bushings [there will be an approximately 1/8" gap between the top of the bushing and the bottom of the oil seal.] Pushing the inner oil seal down into the un-machined area may warp it and cause sealing problems)
    6. Gently and firmly press-in the new main (blue) seal (Note from Chris: Just for clarity, we call this the wiper) into the top of the lower leg above the new oil (black) seal. Ensure that the seal goes in straight and is fully-seated.
    7. Repeat in other leg.

    Left-side Re-Assembly:
    1. Gently slide the stanchion assembly into the lower assembly. Care should be exercised to ensure that the seals are not damaged. Be gentle when pushing the stanchion assembly into the seals. Once engaged, slowly slide the stanchion assembly all the way on.
    2. Apply a thin film of Fox Float Suspension Fluid (or Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant) to the outer circumference of the air piston seal.
    3. Slide the left-side air cartridge assembly into the top of the left leg. Gently push the top black rubber piston so that the lower air cartridge shaft protrudes from the lower leg.
    4. Add 5cc of Float Suspension Fluid (or Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant) to the top of the left leg.
    5. With a 26mm socket, install air cap.
    6. Invert fork and add 30cc of Fox 7.5wt Fully Synthetic Suspension Fluid (Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid) into the bottom of the left leg. You may need to use the screwdriver to gently push the air cartridge shaft back into the leg.
    7. Now, while keeping the fork horizontal, inflate the left-side air chamber to 50psi. This will cause the air cartridge shaft to extend out of the lower leg. Now, gently press-on the crush washer. It will likely only go past 1-2 threads on the shaft. This will make it hard to thread-on the lower nut. If so, flip the lower nut and thread it on backwards. This allows the nut to engage easier with only a few threads showing. Tighten the inverted nut until the crush washer has been pushed sufficiently down the shaft. Loosen the nut and re-install correctly. (Note from Chris: When re-using the old crush washers, it is sometimes easier to "thread" them onto the shaft ends [grip them with a towel] rather than pushing them on. "Threading" them on may let you skip this step of using the inverted nut to drive them on.) Torque to 50 in-lbs.

    Right-side Re-Assembly:
    1. Extend TerraLogic cartridge damper rod to full length and install top cap by engaging 1-2 turns. Make sure that the Rebound and TerraLogic dials are at their original settings (i.e., full -ve).
    2. Install the crush washer and lower nut. The crush washer will likely only go past 1-2 threads on the shaft. This will make it hard to thread-on the lower nut. If so, flip the lower nut and thread it on backwards. This allows the nut to engage easier with only a few threads showing. Tighten the inverted nut until the crush washer has been pushed sufficiently down the shaft. Loosen the nut and re-install correctly. Torque to 50 in-lbs.
    3. Align the 2mm set-screw in the blue Bump Threshold dial with the drilled-out groove on the TerraLogic lower shaft.
    4. Unscrew the damper top cap and compress the fork.
    5. Pour 155cc of Fox 7.5wt Fully Synthetic Suspension Fluid (Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid) into the upper leg. While adding the fluid, gently cycle the rebound/TerraLogic cartridge, as well as, cycling the fork. Also, vary the rebound and Bump Threshold settings from full -ve to full +ve, and vice versa. This will ensure the cartridge is properly filled.
    6. With a 26mm socket, tighten damper top cap to 165 in-lbs.

    (End Mike's Instructions)

    Thanks, Mike. Hope you don't mind my additions. We'll have pics in a couple of weeks, but these very clear instructions should do the job in the meantime.

    -Chris

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    Thanks, Mike. Hope you don't mind my additions. We'll have pics in a couple of weeks, but these very clear instructions should do the job in the meantime.

    -Chris
    No probs, Chris. Sorry about not having any pics, but I'd suggest that in the interim, anyone installing the Enduros in a F80X/F100X use your generic Fox install guide as a point of reference. Surprisingly, the F80X/F100X forks are very easy to gut.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  43. #43
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    Mike & Chris THANKS GUYS

    Great job on putting the instructions together...

    Much appreciated!!!

    Oggie

    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    No probs, Chris. Sorry about not having any pics, but I'd suggest that in the interim, anyone installing the Enduros in a F80X/F100X use your generic Fox install guide as a point of reference. Surprisingly, the F80X/F100X forks are very easy to gut.

  44. #44
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    where to buy Golden Spectro oil???

    i am in Canada, so you may be very specific ie. the name of the store chain or specific store...

    also, is it a big deal to reuse crash washers?


    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    No probs, Chris. Sorry about not having any pics, but I'd suggest that in the interim, anyone installing the Enduros in a F80X/F100X use your generic Fox install guide as a point of reference. Surprisingly, the F80X/F100X forks are very easy to gut.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    i am in Canada, so you may be very specific ie. the name of the store chain or specific store...

    also, is it a big deal to reuse crash washers?
    I'm in Canada, too....Ottawa, to be exact. Any reputable motorcycle shop will have Golden Spectro. I bought mine at the Ottawa Good Time Centre. Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid was $17CDN for 1L and Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant was $9CDN for 1L.

    I've not had any issues re-using the crush washers. But, if it is pretty mangled, then you should replace them.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  46. #46
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    where the hell did you find 26mm socket?

    so far only Snap-on tools can order it for me at measly $27...



    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    I'm in Canada, too....Ottawa, to be exact. Any reputable motorcycle shop will have Golden Spectro. I bought mine at the Ottawa Good Time Centre. Golden Spectro 125/150 (7.5wt) Synthetic Cartridge Fork Fluid was $17CDN for 1L and Golden Spectro SAE 80w Gear Lubricant was $9CDN for 1L.

    I've not had any issues re-using the crush washers. But, if it is pretty mangled, then you should replace them.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo
    so far only Snap-on tools can order it for me at measly $27...
    I couldn't. I looked everywhere, but a 26mm just isn't available....thanks, Fox.

    Fortunately, I have a friend who is an auto-body mechanic and he has access to tools, etc., that consumers don't. He had a 26mm socket for when I did my F100X. But, when I did my F80X on Sunday, I didn't...I carefully used a large adjustable wrench. Just be careful not to round the corners.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  48. #48
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    Good job!

    Mike - Thanks for taking the write up these instructions. I saw this last fall when you first wrote it up, but just now got around to installing Enduro seals in my F100x.

    Chris - Thanks for adding to Mike's write up and then making the pictorial instructions posted on your site. With the help from you and Mike, the installation was painless and quick.


    Thanks again,
    jw
    -

    "And single-speeding 29ers are mountain biking's equivalent of Scientologists..." - Captain Dondo

  49. #49
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    You are welcome, and....

    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyOne
    Mike - Thanks for taking the write up these instructions. I saw this last fall when you first wrote it up, but just now got around to installing Enduro seals in my F100x.

    Chris - Thanks for adding to Mike's write up and then making the pictorial instructions posted on your site. With the help from you and Mike, the installation was painless and quick.


    Thanks again,
    jw
    No problem. Glad it worked out for you. While this old post has been resurrected, let me correct a mistake from this thread. A poster had mentioned that Hippie-Tech had recommended against our seals. The poster was confusing Hippie-Tech with another fork tuner who shall remain nameless. Jerry at Hippie-Tech is a user of our products, highly qualified, and very professional.

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    By johnmyster99 in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-20-2004, 02:21 AM

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