Can't remove bolt on pike drive side for lower leg service- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Can't remove bolt on pike drive side for lower leg service

    I am going to perform a lower leg service on my pike. The bolt on the drive side will not come out. It doesn't seem to loosen or tighten any more. Anyone ever encounter this?

  2. #2
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    Finally got it sorted out. The rod was spinning freely inside so turning the bolt turned the rod. The only way Imhad to loosen it was to provide friction between the rod and the lower legs. This meant using muscle, I had to use vise grip pliers and pull when turning while pulling in the opposite direction on the lower legs. Took a while, but eventually got it. Once I got it open and looked at it I noticed, crap, could have fed an allen key into the rebound adjuster to apply a little friction. Oh well.

    Once I got everything back together I had the dreaded pike not fully extending issue. Fooled around for another half hour trying to get the air out by filling to higher pressure and cycling, couldn't get it. Did a search and found a post where someone suggested running a zip tie under the seals. Sure enough, the zip tie released the trapped air that was causing the issues. Will have to keep the zip tie trick in my head, have always struggled with this issue.

  3. #3
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    Impact driver is what you were after.
    Or patience and knocking the Allen key to undo bit by bit.
    Smooth movement just slips, jarring movements allow the bolt to loosen via the stiction.

  4. #4
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    Compress the fork while turning the bolt. If it's the damper side, add some compression damping first. This puts pressure on the rod, created friction between it and the lowers.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys, will try both suggestions next lower leg service. It's bound to reoccur, the damper side rod had little stiction.

  6. #6
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    What a complete PITA this spinning bolt/damper rod thing is! I've tried all the things I've read on this and other forums but no joy. Surely the manufacturers could come up with something to stop the rod from spinning cos it's a job that's going to be done on a regular basis given the tiny amount of oil that's in forks these days!

  7. #7
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    The zip tie trick from what I have heard is only to release trapped air build up in the lowers (stanchion seals). If your pike is stuck down then that is the air piston seal inside the stanchion tube that has let positive air slip by. So not sure what you achieved but it doesn't make sense.

  8. #8
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    I've seen this issue a few times with the spinner lower foot bolt. Such a pain.

    I put a 5mm in a screw gun and just spun it like crazy. I had the bike upside-down and was pushing on the arch with my foot with the damper on max compression.

    Good times.

    mk
    TrailWerks Cyclery
    TrailWerks Suspension Service

    trailwerkssuspension.com
    trailwerkscyclery.com

  9. #9
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    Something I felt was helpful was to totally remove the bolts before you dislodge the legs. This way the legs/rods remain seated and don't spin prior to removal. I then put the bolts back in a few turns and tap the legs out.

    I also use the non-damper bolt to do the dislodgment on both sides. I do this as the damper bolt looks a bit fragile.


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightenup View Post
    Something I felt was helpful was to totally remove the bolts before you dislodge the legs. This way the legs/rods remain seated and don't spin prior to removal. I then put the bolts back in a few turns and tap the legs out.

    I also use the non-damper bolt to do the dislodgment on both sides. I do this as the damper bolt looks a bit fragile.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes, I've always done this and it works well. Another huge help was to grease the bolts when reinstalling. Saw this on one of the service videos, really helped getting them back in there without the rods spinning.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  11. #11
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    I've ruined two rebound dampers because of this. Tried every trick imaginable to try and get the bolts out but ended up hacksawing one off and the remains were completely stuck and the other I jammed the rebound all the way closed by sticking an allen wrench in it to hold it in place. Pisses me off so bad. I chase all the threadlocker off the threads before reinstalling.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by eicca View Post
    I've ruined two rebound dampers because of this. Tried every trick imaginable to try and get the bolts out but ended up hacksawing one off and the remains were completely stuck and the other I jammed the rebound all the way closed by sticking an allen wrench in it to hold it in place. Pisses me off so bad. I chase all the threadlocker off the threads before reinstalling.
    Just to help others, what year is your fork? I have a 2016 Pike, which had greyish thread locker on it. My bolts came out without issue.

  13. #13
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    Mine is 2014, should be the exact same damper/bolt assembly.
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  14. #14
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    Maybe you should consider taking your suspension in to get serviced, doesn't sound like you've got the patience or ability to follow instructions. I have service so many forks, have followed the procedure above Jayem describe (and what all service manuals tell you to do) and have never had an issue, Fox, RS, X-Fusion, ever.

    Quote Originally Posted by eicca View Post
    I've ruined two rebound dampers because of this. Tried every trick imaginable to try and get the bolts out but ended up hacksawing one off and the remains were completely stuck and the other I jammed the rebound all the way closed by sticking an allen wrench in it to hold it in place. Pisses me off so bad. I chase all the threadlocker off the threads before reinstalling.
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  15. #15
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    Being a reasonably competent mechanic for a pro Cannondale dealer, I'm fairly confident I know what I am doing. It's possible this fork was screwed up by a previous owner but I still think it's retarded in any situation to put thread locker on a bolt that goes into something that spins.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by eicca View Post
    Being a reasonably competent mechanic for a pro Cannondale dealer, I'm fairly confident I know what I am doing. It's possible this fork was screwed up by a previous owner but I still think it's retarded in any situation to put thread locker on a bolt that goes into something that spins.
    I'm going with Lynx on this one. I have never had this problem on a Pike, and when the issue arises on older RS forks, it is a quick fix to remedy. Never have I had to cut a foot bolt to get a fork apart and I service a LOT of forks.

  17. #17
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    A bit of old thread, but I ran into the same problem today. The bolt would just spin no matter what. Tried shaft compressed, extended, firm setting, everything. But what worked was to put knife between bolt and lower leg and press firmly to "separate" them while slowly turning bolt. Finally it went off, no damage to bolt, legs, shaft

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