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  1. #501
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    Fox Yeti and Pivot are now all in agreement with HSC saying adjust from fully closed (Pivot used to be from open).

    But what is fully closed? Is it fully wrenched clockwise until it won't turn anymore? Is it clockwise until it gets hard to turn? Is it 18 clicks from open as Ed from Fox is saying?

    Updated manual say until it comes to a "gentle stop". Not sure what that means... Does that mean until it gets harder to turn? Mine gets harder to turn at around 26 clicks from open, but I feel like it will never come to a complete "stop". I didn't try past 30 clicks because it was way hard to turn, but I bet it would keep turning.

  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsthubbins View Post
    Fox Yeti and Pivot are now all in agreement with HSC saying adjust from fully closed (Pivot used to be from open).

    But what is fully closed? Is it fully wrenched clockwise until it won't turn anymore? Is it clockwise until it gets hard to turn? Is it 18 clicks from open as Ed from Fox is saying?

    Updated manual say until it comes to a "gentle stop". Not sure what that means... Does that mean until it gets harder to turn? Mine gets harder to turn at around 26 clicks from open, but I feel like it will never come to a complete "stop". I didn't try past 30 clicks because it was way hard to turn, but I bet it would keep turning.
    Stop over thinking this and just turn it to closed! Don't swing on it, just turn it until you feel like you have turned a bottle top onto the top of a bottle firm enough that no liquid comes out.

  3. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Stop over thinking this and just turn it to closed! Don't swing on it, just turn it until you feel like you have turned a bottle top onto the top of a bottle firm enough that no liquid comes out.
    Thank you for a perfect example of why people are overthinking this. A bottle top comes to a stop...I stop screwing a bottle top on when it stops, do you stop earlier!? My HSC isn't a bottle top that screws on...it's a series of clicks that get progressively harder to turn. Throw in Fox's instructions about a gentle stop and in-lb/nm readings, not to mention the conflicting statements from Foxs' own techs and you see the confusion.

  4. #504
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    I have a luftkappe coming in the mail and I was wondering if anyone else who had gotten one had changed their fork settings when they put it in? More pressure? More tokens?

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvinbenedictmtb View Post
    I have a luftkappe coming in the mail and I was wondering if anyone else who had gotten one had changed their fork settings when they put it in? More pressure? More tokens?
    I have one in a Lyrik. More pressure, less tokens.

  6. #506
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    Thanks, Any change in compression or rebound?

  7. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvinbenedictmtb View Post
    Thanks, Any change in compression or rebound?
    I can a little more compression and a little less rebound. Just one click of each.

  8. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsthubbins View Post
    Thank you for a perfect example of why people are overthinking this. A bottle top comes to a stop...I stop screwing a bottle top on when it stops, do you stop earlier!? My HSC isn't a bottle top that screws on...it's a series of clicks that get progressively harder to turn. Throw in Fox's instructions about a gentle stop and in-lb/nm readings, not to mention the conflicting statements from Foxs' own techs and you see the confusion.

    I can definitely strip the plastic threads in a bottle cap if I wanted to. You should probably just sell your bike...

    Best I can tell about 99% of the people in this thread have no business messing with their own suspension. This isn't rocket science.
    Denver, CO

  9. #509
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    I just go a 36 grip2 a couple of days ago and I feel that it has gotten more subtle in the last couple of days, kind of like it has set in or bedded in. Is this something that any of you have felt as well.

  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvinbenedictmtb View Post
    I just go a 36 grip2 a couple of days ago and I feel that it has gotten more subtle in the last couple of days, kind of like it has set in or bedded in. Is this something that any of you have felt as well.
    I’ve heard similar reports from other riders and reviews that there is a break-in period.


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  11. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    I can definitely strip the plastic threads in a bottle cap if I wanted to. You should probably just sell your bike...

    Best I can tell about 99% of the people in this thread have no business messing with their own suspension. This isn't rocket science.
    Yeah idiots, your grip2 HSC works just like a water bottle lid!

    Alright bud, since it's not rocket science and you're smarter than 99% of the people on this thread, you tell me at what click mine is closed. Starting from full open clicks 0-21 have the exact same resistance. Click 22 is slightly, almost imperceptibly more resistant. Click 23 is slightly more resistant that 22. Click 24 is slightly more resistant than 23. and so on and so on until click 30-31 have quite a bit of resistance but can still be turned by hand.

    Come on man, you called me out as someone who has no business touching my fork and should probably just sell my bike... at which click is it completely closed? Keep in mind Ed from FOX said (and verified at least once) that 18 from full open is completely closed.

    BTW I don't really care what you say, I've got enough time on the fork now to get a good idea of what my HSC is doing, but you dragged me back into the conversation by basically calling me an imbecile.

  12. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsthubbins View Post
    BTW I don't really care what you say, I've got enough time on the fork now to get a good idea of what my HSC is doing, but you dragged me back into the conversation by basically calling me an imbecile.
    You did that all by yourself.

  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    You did that all by yourself.
    How exactly? By asking for clarification on when HSC is fully closed?

  14. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsthubbins View Post
    How exactly? By asking for clarification on when HSC is fully closed?
    More like saying that it was impossible to tell when it's closed and you where going to break it if you tried. Turn it until you feel resistance increase. It's a physical stop with the needle bottoming out on the seat. This change in resistance is easy to feel. Forcing it beyond this point will damage the adjuster, but it take a substantial amount of force. We are taking 10 times or more. This is where the easy to feel comes into play.

    Reading your post more closely, it sounds like you are opening the HSC instead of closing it.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  15. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    More like saying that it was impossible to tell when it's closed and you where going to break it if you tried. Turn it until you feel resistance increase. It's a physical stop with the needle bottoming out on the seat. This change in resistance is easy to feel. Forcing it beyond this point will damage the adjuster, but it take a substantial amount of force. We are taking 10 times or more. This is where the easy to feel comes into play.

    Reading your post more closely, it sounds like you are opening the HSC instead of closing it.
    I never actually said it was impossible to tell. I was just asking if there was ever a consensus on what exactly is full closed. Fox says "a gentle stop", Ed from FOX says "18 clicks from full open", the thread consensus is when you "feel resistance". As pointed out earlier, at least with my damper "feel resistance" is a bit relative.

    A significant portion of this thread has been debating exactly this issue and I was just wondering if there was ever a firm consensus. As mentioned earlier, I've gotten to know my fork well enough in the last week that the question is no longer relative, but I apologize for being an idiot and not knowing in the first place.

  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsthubbins View Post
    I never actually said it was impossible to tell. I was just asking if there was ever a consensus on what exactly is full closed. Fox says "a gentle stop", Ed from FOX says "18 clicks from full open", the thread consensus is when you "feel resistance". As pointed out earlier, at least with my damper "feel resistance" is a bit relative.

    A significant portion of this thread has been debating exactly this issue and I was just wondering if there was ever a firm consensus. As mentioned earlier, I've gotten to know my fork well enough in the last week that the question is no longer relative, but I apologize for being an idiot and not knowing in the first place.
    Nothing wrong with questions. Full closed is always going to the same on all suspension adjusters. Full open is a very different story and there has been a lot of miss information in this thread. Fox didn't shim the HSC correctly, so it could have way too many clicks. This lead to confusion and also fox didn't have there story straight.

    Full closed is the same on all forks. Only the first 12-14 clicks from closed have an effect. After that there is essentially no HSC control and LSC is effected as the stack is completely open. This gives a secondary oil path around the LSC needle.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  17. #517
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    I believe HSC confusion comes from the fact that the shim stacks maybe different across 36s. When I opened up the base valve, these two "stopping" shims were not there. They are 0.1mm thick each, they face the piston, as in the diagram below, but they don't cover the ports. So they act like a spacer, and limit the amount of preload the main shims have. If the base valve does not have these shims, you can put more preload, and HSC will continuously get harder and harder to turn, until the large shims face the piston. When these spacer shims are there, you can put less preload, and HSC adjuster stops faster, but it does not get progressively harder to turn, it just stops. I added the shims myself as I had some extra in that size. Also, after adding stopper shims, HSC for me, has about 10 usable clicks from fully closed, after that shims open up completely and float above the piston. That's a reason why at full open HSC, LSC has no effect, because all oil just flows through open piston ports. Hope this helps with confusion here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Flow View Post
    The explo view of the valving assy seems to proof your theory.


    https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/img/he...03-530-kit.jpg

    Note the "Add or substract valves..."-part on the left.
    It's totally different to the RC2 damper's HSC adjuster isn't it?

  18. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben_mtb View Post
    I believe HSC confusion comes from the fact that the shim stacks maybe different across 36s. When I opened up the base valve, these two "stopping" shims were not there. They are 0.1mm thick each, they face the piston, as in the diagram below, but they don't cover the ports. So they act like a spacer, and limit the amount of preload the main shims have. If the base valve does not have these shims, you can put more preload, and HSC will continuously get harder and harder to turn, until the large shims face the piston. When these spacer shims are there, you can put less preload, and HSC adjuster stops faster, but it does not get progressively harder to turn, it just stops. I added the shims myself as I had some extra in that size. Also, after adding stopper shims, HSC for me, has about 10 usable clicks from fully closed, after that shims open up completely and float above the piston. That's a reason why at full open HSC, LSC has no effect, because all oil just flows through open piston ports. Hope this helps with confusion here.
    Thanks for posting this. That's exactly what mine does, just gradually gets harder to turn.

  19. #519
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    Same here

  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Has anyone saw or maybe there is separate thread regarding F36 2020.
    Im interested in new/upgraded painting.
    curious about this as well is there any difference between 2019 vs 2020? I can't see any difference in paint/stickers and haven't heard anything other than about the 32. Is the 2020 36 the exact same fork as 2019?

  21. #521
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    2020 Fox 36 F-S

    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Has anyone saw or maybe there is separate thread regarding F36 2020.
    Im interested in new/upgraded painting.
    Here is my 2020 Fox 36 Factory, 160mm, 27.5. I have a handful of rides on it, my settings are a bit off from recommended, and for generally fast choppy trails, nothing big yet till snow goes away at higher elevations.
    HSC -12 from full closed
    LSC -8
    HSR -5
    LSR -6
    75 PSI
    1 TOKEN.
    The ride is well controlled and quite smooth at these settings.
    At recommended it rides a bit firmer, i will likely go up a few clicks everywhere once the snow melts off of the bigger hit trails. I also have a 2020 Float X2 on the back, mates well with the fork on my SB6.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Fox 36 Grip2-a7303524-1-copy.jpg  


  22. #522
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    I have one ride on my 2020 Factory 36, 160mm, 29" and I love it so far.

    Rider weight - 225lb with gear
    HSC -12 from full closed
    LSC - 6
    HSR - 2
    LSR - 3
    90 PSI
    2 tokens

  23. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7four8 View Post
    Can anyone compare the grip2 damper to avalanche. Looking to upgrade my 2017 36 damper but looks like fox still having quality control issues.
    Has anyone had an avalanche and a grip2 in the same chassis with the same spring?

  24. #524
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    There are a few differences, tho none are likely performance. The only note worthy one is the compression adjuster has a stop around 22 or 23 clicks, tho the effect stops after 16. I guess just the way the HSC works, tho i dont think the 18 or 19 year had a stop??? I have not ridden a 2019 for more than 5 minutes so i can not really say about actual trail difference, but they are supposed to be the same.
    Last edited by DeeGeeCee; 4 Days Ago at 09:53 PM. Reason: missed something

  25. #525
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    Just come across this thread, very informative! After some experimentation trying to workout whether the 16 effective clicks are from fully closed or fully open, what I found with my fork (36 grip 2 factory 160 29) is:

    It’s got 36 clicks HSC. From fully open the first 28 clicks (turning clockwise - obviously) have light resistance then at click 21 there is increased resistance (quite a bit, maybe 4 times more, but not enough to make it feel bad), then the last 8 clicks stay at this resistance until after this it becomes hard enough that it stops turning (or at least hard enough I don’t want to try any harder).

    After testing I figured out that fully closed is actually just where the resistance increases! So, the last 8 clicks clockwise are all fully closed and the 14 closest to “fully open” are actually all fully open, and the 16 effective clicks are between these, in the middle. Not the most user friendly set up!

    Does this match anyone else’s testing?

    Without actually going riding the most effective test I found was riding into a wall from a couple of meters away at the same speed each time.

  26. #526
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    I have counted 26 clicks HSC for 2020 36 Grip 2 from fully closed (clockwise). Adjuster came to a hard stop at 26 and would not move. When turning fully clockwise I turn until it stops and then rotate a tiny bit counter clockwise for the adjuster to hit the detent. Counted 26 from there.

  27. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1000 View Post
    Just come across this thread, very informative! After some experimentation trying to workout whether the 16 effective clicks are from fully closed or fully open, what I found with my fork (36 grip 2 factory 160 29) is:

    It’s got 36 clicks HSC. From fully open the first 28 clicks (turning clockwise - obviously) have light resistance then at click 21 there is increased resistance (quite a bit, maybe 4 times more, but not enough to make it feel bad), then the last 8 clicks stay at this resistance until after this it becomes hard enough that it stops turning (or at least hard enough I don’t want to try any harder).

    After testing I figured out that fully closed is actually just where the resistance increases! So, the last 8 clicks clockwise are all fully closed and the 14 closest to “fully open” are actually all fully open, and the 16 effective clicks are between these, in the middle. Not the most user friendly set up!

    Does this match anyone else’s testing?

    Without actually going riding the most effective test I found was riding into a wall from a couple of meters away at the same speed each time.


    Count anticlockwise from full closed.

    Full closed is when you start feeling an increase in resistance when turning clockwise (it's not much like only 2-3Nm). Don't turn until you hit a hard stop as you may damage the adjuster.

  28. #528
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    [QUOTE = Erlendking; 14074544] Hola, he estado corriendo un 2019 fox 36 grip2 160 mm por un tiempo, y estoy luchando para encontrar la configuración correcta. Yo peso 60kgs (132lbs). Reparé mis horquillas hace unos días, y quité una cantidad decente de grasa de ambos lados del pistón de aire, reemplacé el aceite, empapé los anillos de espuma y lubriqué las juntas, que estaban casi completamente secas. La horquilla de alguna manera se siente menos sensible, casi "molesta", cuando se aplica una carga estática y aumenta gradualmente hasta que se rompe la tesis. Añadiré que la horquilla también parece ser un poco más ruidosa, haciendo un sonido de "succión" cuando se extiende.

    El último viaje que estaba ejecutando:

    desde cerrado:
    1 ficha
    58 psi
    10LSR
    8HSR
    9LSC
    12HSC

    El tenedor se sentía absolutamente horrible en secciones ásperas, y mis brazos y manos estaban totalmente golpeados por un breve descenso. Utilicé alrededor del 80-90% de viaje al saltar, lo cual me sentí muy bien.

    Después de leer este hilo, he cambiado mi configuración a esta, que probaré más adelante esta semana:

    de cerrado:
    2 tokens
    55psi
    8LSR
    7HSR
    10LSC
    16HSC ¿ Alguien

    sabe algo que pueda cambiar para mejorar cómo se siente el tenedor en bruto?
    Además, ¿qué podría haber hecho que la horquilla fuera menos sensible después del servicio, solo es necesario montarla? Tener presiones de aire igualadas al inflar. [/ QUOTE]


    how did it go?

  29. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1000 View Post
    Just come across this thread, very informative! After some experimentation trying to workout whether the 16 effective clicks are from fully closed or fully open, what I found with my fork (36 grip 2 factory 160 29) is:

    It’s got 36 clicks HSC. From fully open the first 28 clicks (turning clockwise - obviously) have light resistance then at click 21 there is increased resistance (quite a bit, maybe 4 times more, but not enough to make it feel bad), then the last 8 clicks stay at this resistance until after this it becomes hard enough that it stops turning (or at least hard enough I don’t want to try any harder).

    After testing I figured out that fully closed is actually just where the resistance increases! So, the last 8 clicks clockwise are all fully closed and the 14 closest to “fully open” are actually all fully open, and the 16 effective clicks are between these, in the middle. Not the most user friendly set up!

    Does this match anyone else’s testing?

    Without actually going riding the most effective test I found was riding into a wall from a couple of meters away at the same speed each time.
    I found the most effective test was running the damper on a dyno....and the 16 clicks is from the hard stop, like every other damper ever. It gets stiffer on those last clicks because you are litterally pressing the shim stack down in to the dished piston which creates extra tension. The adjuster stops once it bottoms out on the spacer shims

    It is almost impossible to force this adjuster too far just by hand, please everyone stop overthinking this!
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