2017 Fox 34 fork broken cast teeth on lower - unable to remove kabolt t-axle nut- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2017 Fox 34 fork broken cast teeth on lower - unable to remove kabolt t-axle nut

    I bought a used Rocky Mountain Thunderbolt recently and have riden it about 10 times. It has a Fox 2017 performance series 34 float shock w/ Kabolt bolt-on thru axle. On the 5th time taking the front wheel off, I heard an awful sound and discovered the 3 cast teeth on the fork lowers - which keep the axle nut in place - had sheared off. Same with the 2 teeth on the axle nut. I have no idea what they looked like before this. I called Fox and they told me this rarely happens and is from over-tightening the bolt on t-axle. What a horrible design that a fork with 3 tiny teeth can be sheared off putting a wheel on or off. I've not over-tightened and the person i bought it from didn't know how to take the wheel off. Now I'm told I need to get new lowers for $250 plus installation cost. Not an option currently, and seems even crazier to buy the same shitty design.

    The first problem is getting the kabolt t-axle off. I've tried everything possible to hold the aluminmu axle nut in place, and it only gets damaged & doesn't budge. There's no place to really hold it. A LBS suggested epoxying the axle nut and seeing if i can remove axle. I tried this with 30 hrs cure time and it failed as soon as I turned in. Anyone have this same problem and come up with a way to remove the t-axle without ruining the nut or shock?

    Secondly, one LBS suggested gluing the nut in place permanently and buying a quick-release thru-axle. I'm hoping to try this way cheaper option FIRST, at least temporarily until I can afford new lowers or a new shock. Given the epoxy didn't work for this first round, maybe JB Weld or something stronger? Anyone try this and have success?

    Sorry for the long post and thanks for any help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Fox 34 fork broken cast teeth on lower - unable to remove kabolt t-axle nut-fox-34.jpg  

    Last edited by erikaCO; 10-11-2019 at 07:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    If you love the way the fork feels/performs, get new lowers.

    If you don't love it, shop sales and craigslist to replace the thing outright.

  3. #3
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    never mind ...

  4. #4
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    You have a pretty easy path to remove that; run a drill down the end of the hollow axle, no center punching/aligning necessary. Start small, and work your way up until you are just about the size of the valleys of the threads (13mm ish). Roughly 12mm deep should be enough, 14 to be safe. You can either keep drilling through the nut with a larger size, or if you still want to save it for something, use a long drift to knock the remains of the axle free from the open end.

    A drill press would make the work trivial, but it could be done with a handheld model, in a pinch.

    The lowers are done, and there is no satisfactory way to fix them, so there isn't any problem with damaging them during removal, either.

  5. #5
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    sounds like a skill testing question.... do we win a prize?

    If lowers are junk just drill into the lowers from the bottom or side of the lowers. You can go just into the nut enough to leave the drill bit in while you back out the axle. Reverse the drill bit so you have the stronger side inserted. When done. Thread the hole in the nut for a small bolt so you can reuse

    Another option is to drill in between the lowers nut and the lowers from the axle end. Then use the hole and drill bit idea to prevent the nut from turning while removing the axle.

    or if your fussy, drill two small holes in the side of the nut and see if snap ring pliers can hold it back.

    let us know how it works out.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies everyone. My goal is NOT to destroy the axle nut or shock lowers, at least in the initial phase of trying option 1 recommended by a reputable local bike shop (see last paragraph of original post).

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