2011/12 Fox FIT 36 Float 160 vs Fox FIT 36 Float Talas 120-160, anyone tried both?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2011/12 Fox FIT 36 Float 160 vs Fox FIT 36 Float Talas 120-160, anyone tried both?

    Hey guys,

    I was on the Ibis website and saw the option for the HD to have either the fox float 36 160 or a fox float 36 TALAS 120-160. The weight difference is about 0.1 pounds of the two, but I'm wondering in terms of plushness how do they feel? I read that the gap between the two is closing in terms of feel, I've owned plenty of float shocks and a 100-140 float talas (09) and all the floats felt alot plusher. Has anyone had the chance to ride both and compare the two? If I go for the talas will I sacrifice some plush feel for adjust-ability or will it be negligible? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    When freshly serviced, the difference is really negligible. Esp. with SKF seals & Kashima. But with Talas you can quickly go on the harsh side, for example with frequent riding and/or unfriendly conditions, since they're more sensitive to strict maintenance.

    If you need travel adjust, than consider Talas. If you rarely use it or don't need it, that's even easier choice go Float

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corvette View Post
    If you need travel adjust, than consider Talas. If you rarely use it or don't need it, that's even easier choice go Float
    Yup!

    Also, remember you can adjust the travel on a Float, you just can do it on the fly.

  4. #4
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    Talas is a complete waste on the HD. There is no need for it even on the steepest of climbs. Also the Talas tends to be much more progressive so early travel is similar, but bigger hits are not as plush.

  5. #5
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    ^^^ I wouldn't say a complete waste of time, I ride an HD and have one particular lactic acid inducing, lung bursting, saddle nose up my anus, handlebar hugging, sustained granny ring climb where dropping the Talas definitely helps in cleaning it (lessens wander and can relax my upper body more).

    But...

    I started out with the 2011 Talas 36 (Kashima), then got SKF seals put in (improvement to decrease stiction over the small stuff), then had the left side converted to Float and the right side a new '12 RLC cartridge (supposed to have changed slightly, more sensitive on the smaller stuff but not blowing through travel on the big stuff as easy, don't now how true this is). I was hoping to just get the new cartridge put in and keep the Talas to test any differences in the '11 and '12 cartridges and then later changing the Talas to Float, but my shop sort of messed up when communicating with Fox on a warranty issue(the RLC cartridge started knocking after a year) and both were done at the same time.

    I was under the impression before that the Float would be more progressive than the Talas and hoping it would help somewhat in preventing brake dive with low settings on the low speed compression. I found the fork to work very similarly before and after the final changes.

    Bottom line, happier with the Float due to better reliability, for the VERY few times the Talas would get used. Actually happiest with the performance of the Float R I had on there while my fork was away for a couple weeks, pissed off how much better it performed than my RLC. Have not been able to get a good balance of reducing brake dive and maintaining small bump sensitivity/stutter reactivity.

    BTW, $70 in parts to convert Talas to Float and can be reversed.

  6. #6
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    You can adjust how progressive the Float is by adding or removing oil from the air chamber. Add oil to make it more progressive, and remove it to make it more linear. To combat brake dive, dial is some more LSC damping.

  7. #7
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    Yeah, will experiment with the ccs. How much to make a difference? My point with adjusting LSC to combat brake dive is after two seasons on my fork I haven't found a happy medium. I realize there is give and take but that loaner Float R worked great(open bath, I know).

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