2010 FOX 32 FIT RLC sticks like crazy...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2010 FOX 32 FIT RLC sticks like crazy...

    I have a 2010 FOX 32 TALAS 140 FIT RLC fork and it works so bad. It has been around 1000km and it is still very sticky just like the day I bought it. Changing oil in legs and lubing dust seals helps a little (still far from the way it should be) and only for half an hour or so. Searching through internet says it's a common issue for 2010 FIT damper and says nothing about fixing it.

    Any ideas how to make it work? A cheaper RS Recon & Sektor work just fine and so plush out of box. I wrote to FOX but not hoping they'll say something helpfull...

    Thanks ahead for any help or advice.

  2. #2
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    I've got a Talas 150 RLC FIT, and have found the following to dramatically alleviate stiction issues:

    1. Use Mobil-1 motor oil, something like 5W30, as the bath oil. This type of oil will have better lubrication properties than suspension fluid, and it's recommended by many experts in this forum.

    2. Upgrade your seals to Enduro's.

    3. When you're changing out the bath oil, make sure to thoroughly clean out the lowers of contaminants such as wear particles; this involves using some sort of cylindrical brush to probe and agitate the inner surface followed by rinses with clean oil (I use cheap oil for the rinsing and M-1 for the oil that stays in).

    Hope this helps, and definitely do not give up on the fork yet.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the answer!

    1. I'll try, but I think the friction issue is in the damper, not outer seals. I have tried some other suspension oil (not Fox) - no effect.

    2. Done already. No effect.

  4. #4
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    I found the issue, hope it would help someone. The damper, the spring and the seals are all OK. It is about bushings tolerance - they are just a little too tight. A mechanic and a friend of mine said it's a common issue for any manufacturer: some shocks stick, some work just fine and some are very plush but have a slightly noticeable play.

    I'm not shure I could do something about bushings, so I found a way to help the problem without destroying anything. The air in the damper leg is normally works like an another positive spring because you assemble the shock and close the chamber while it is not compressed. But if you compress the shock and then close the chamber it would work like a negative spring. And that's what I did.

    It made the initial stroke mush easier, almost without sticktion and added a little of progression. The seals hold the pressure so far. I couldn't believe it works, thought it's because I changed the oil or something, so I checked it and it really does...

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