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  1. #1
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    New XT Brakes...horrible!

    Anyone else having an issue with the latest and greatest XT brakes having terrible inconsistency issues? they pump like crazy then pull back straight to the grips with ZERO braking. Really making it easy to switch over to Guides!

  2. #2
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    Bleed them. It's really easy.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 202cycle View Post
    Bleed them. It's really easy.
    Done that. Top down, bottom up. You name it. Just garbage at this point. Used to love my old XT brakes but they're just not the same product any longer.

  4. #4
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    Warranty them, there is a long thread in the brake time forum with issues you bring up. They have been corrected by Shimano and that post will help you identify the corrected versions.

    The XTR and XT seem to have troubles (pre-fixed versions). Here is the link to one of the few threads:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/m8...dh-992878.html

  5. #5
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    No problems with mine. Warranty issue.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Trail Gnome
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aresab View Post
    Warranty them, there is a long thread in the brake time forum with issues you bring up. They have been corrected by Shimano and that post will help you identify the corrected versions.

    The XTR and XT seem to have troubles (pre-fixed versions). Here is the link to one of the few threads:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/m8...dh-992878.html
    I have the M785 brakes...same thing...I've bled them, purchased new ones...they're all the same. I'm done with Shimano brakes; what next???

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Btownrider View Post
    Anyone else having an issue with the latest and greatest XT brakes having terrible inconsistency issues? they pump like crazy then pull back straight to the grips with ZERO braking. Really making it easy to switch over to Guides!
    Mine are perfect.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by griz View Post
    I have the M785 brakes...same thing...I've bled them, purchased new ones...they're all the same. I'm done with Shimano brakes; what next???
    We could link you to the Sram post on the issues with guides.

    As said warrenty them and get working ones.
    OG Ripley v2

  9. #9
    Rent this space for $
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    Quote Originally Posted by griz View Post
    I'm done with Shimano brakes; what next???
    Send them all to me for disposal. I'll pay USPS shipping.

  10. #10
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    Get M615's, solid & reliable...

    Even survived a good off o_0

    A little manual straightening & they're almost good as new

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    "Mountain biking: the under-rated and drug-free antidepressant"

  11. #11
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    Ive owned M785 for yrs. Not a single issue! Just bought another set for my new build. Like anything, there will be a few bad apples in the bunch. Like everyone has said, that's what a warranty is for. A bit inconvinient but beats buying new.

  12. #12
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Btownrider View Post
    Done that. Top down, bottom up. You name it. Just garbage at this point. Used to love my old XT brakes but they're just not the same product any longer.
    To get all of the air out of the lever, with the bleed block installed, you must screw in the funnel, fill it maybe 1/4 full, and start pumping your lever. Loosen the handlebar bolt and rotate the brake 30-45 degrees from vertical, and continue pumping. Repeat in opposite direction. Look at your hoses and be sure t here isn't a part that goes higher than your lever (possible if your hoses are too long). Use your finger and flick the hose a few times while pumping the lever as mentioned above. A little bit of air is going to be trapped in places that pushing fluid through with a syringe doesn't get. There could be a few bubbles at the caliper where the bleed-nipple is, but I'd bet that over time, turning your bike over, and so on, any air has worked it's way to the lever.

    There are some good videos on this on the internet, they have a lot of little steps that most people forgo, but that that seem to help significantly with clearing out all possible air.

    I had pumping M987s and they send me new M9000s to replace them, but I've bled my other 9000s and my 785s enough times and this "quick bleed" method is pretty good at removing any remaining air bubbles IME.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  13. #13
    formerly shabadu
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    Also, use the plug for the bleed cup like a toilet plunger to create a little negative pressure that can dislodge stubborn bubbles in the lever.

    But I doubt all the bleed tricks on the planet will fix a bad set with that wacky lever throw issue. Warranty those things. Should not be a problem.

  14. #14
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    User error.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthem1 View Post
    User error.
    Itís not user error...itís a known issue with Shimano brakes. I just warrantied my third set of XT brakes...I am switching to something else at this point; it wonít be SRAM though, I just warrantied my girlfriends Guide brakes

  16. #16
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    I shortened my brake lines...finally on my new xt's (8020 front and 8000 rear). I was very careful and don't feel I induced that much air into the system, but dang I got a bunch of air out. If they were pre-bled, I would be suprised.

    Anyway My old sram juicy 7's were about shot, so when I mounted these up, I thought they were great right out of the box. Took about an hour to jiggle all the air out of them last night, but HOLY SMOKES, the power they have now is way above what they were out of the box and not even comparable to the juicy's...even when they were new. I about had an accident the front caliper grips so tight.

    These are SOOOO easy to bleed compared to sram. LBS even carries all the bleed kit parts. Wish I would have switched to Shimano years ago.

  17. #17
    RAKC Industries
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    Quote Originally Posted by griz View Post
    Itís not user error...itís a known issue with Shimano brakes. I just warrantied my third set of XT brakes...I am switching to something else at this point; it wonít be SRAM though, I just warrantied my girlfriends Guide brakes
    That's odd, I've got a year on my m7000 ?new SLX) and they've been perfect.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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  18. #18
    Trail Gnome
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    ^^^I havent heard about any issues with the SLX models, only the XT...now that is wierd

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowtron View Post
    Also, use the plug for the bleed cup like a toilet plunger to create a little negative pressure that can dislodge stubborn bubbles in the lever.
    I replace the bleed cup with a Leur-lock syringe. Seal the lock with vacuum grease, and then use the syringe plunger to create a lot of negative pressure to de-gas the mineral oil. This works really well.

  20. #20
    rad to the power of sick
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoDakSooner View Post
    I shortened my brake lines...finally on my new xt's (8020 front and 8000 rear).
    .
    I'm debating doing the same setup, 8020 front, 8000 rear. However im worried that the lever feel will be too different between the two. What has your experience been?
    Some great sets for the trainer:
    https://www.mixcloud.com/djfeelgood/

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by superlightracer View Post
    I'm debating doing the same setup, 8020 front, 8000 rear. However im worried that the lever feel will be too different between the two. What has your experience been?
    I may be dense but i dont feel much difference

    Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk

  22. #22
    rad to the power of sick
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoDakSooner View Post
    I may be dense but i dont feel much difference

    Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
    Ha. ok cool. Ill stick with my plan then
    Some great sets for the trainer:
    https://www.mixcloud.com/djfeelgood/

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wgscott View Post
    I replace the bleed cup with a Leur-lock syringe. Seal the lock with vacuum grease, and then use the syringe plunger to create a lot of negative pressure to de-gas the mineral oil. This works really well.
    Sounds like you should make a video next time you do it

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    There are some good videos on this on the internet, they have a lot of little steps that most people forgo, but that that seem to help significantly with clearing out all possible air.
    I would like to watch a few "good" videos on the internet on such a topic. I would like to know what everyone in this thread is talking about as well as you do. I would prefer to watch some videos from someone that knows they are good videos too.

    Can you recommend a few?

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