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  1. #1
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    Ditching the Twinloc?

    Hi everyone,
    Has anyone ditched the Scott Twinloc?
    I stripped out the bolt on mine on my 2017 Spark and decided to just leave the shock open and buy a Wolf Tooth ReMote with Ispec-II for the dropper post and new knob for the fork.

    Has anyone else done something similar or think this is a bad idea?
    Last edited by Hesher123; 06-26-2018 at 12:53 AM.
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  2. #2
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    TwinLoc has been ditched...

    No responses, seriously, am I the first Scott owner to remove the TwinLoc?

    I think it looks great without it and the Wolf Tooth ReMote is awesome!

    I have only been out riding on my Spark a few times since removing it and donít really miss riding with the shock in the medium setting... so far.

    I never really used it fully locked out but did switch quite a bit between fully open and ďhalfĒ open.
    Last edited by Hesher123; 06-26-2018 at 12:54 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Hy!
    I use my Twinlock a lot! and like you did, mainly between open/medium.
    The thing is, you can remove it from the fork no hassle about it,just a few more $ in a new topcap, but you wil be missing also the control of the shock...and to me it's one of the best features of the Spark! to be able to control all of the platform along the ride i make.
    But, because a lot of issues with the 2017 remote on the Fox fork's...it's comon to see/ear people removing it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    No responses, seriously, am I the first Scott owner to remove the TwinLoc?

    I think it looks great without it and the Wolf Tooth ReMote is awesome!

    I have only been out riding on my Spark a few times since removing it and donít really miss riding with the shock in the medium setting... so far.

    I never used it fully locked out but did switch quite a bit between fully open and ďhalfĒ open.
    You're definitely not the first person to ditch the twinloc. Even Scott sponsored athletes do without the Twinloc. Brendan Fairclough doesn't need it because he's more aggressive trail/enduro/Downhill rider where as riders who benefit from having the twinloc are more XC riders to your trail riders. Sure anyone discipline can take advantage of the remote system but some people just prefer having a simpler set up.

    It's all personal choice. If you're fine without using the remote think about upgrading your suspension. Both fork and rear shock were designed to take advantage of the Twinloc.

    Personally I use all 3 modes. Locked out comes handy on those long climbs that are smooth.
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  5. #5
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    I have a top cap for the Fox fork on order and expect it next week and the Wolf Tooth ReMote is working great; as for the shock I think I can live with it always in the open position.

    I'm mostly riding my hard tail this time of year so i'll find out how I really feel about that next summer

    Here are some photos of the new dropper lever:

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2212.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2213.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2214.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2215.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidSpin View Post
    It's all personal choice. If you're fine without using the remote think about upgrading your suspension. Both fork and rear shock were designed to take advantage of the Twinloc.

    Personally I use all 3 modes. Locked out comes handy on those long climbs that are smooth.
    It's a tough call for me to remove the TwinLoc since I did use it quite often but the simpler approach with a clean look and having the dropper lever in a much better position might be more my style
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    I have a top cap for the Fox fork on order and expect it next week and the Wolf Tooth ReMote is working great; as for the shock I think I can live with it always in the open position.

    I'm mostly riding my hard tail this time of year so i'll find out how I really feel about that next summer


    It's a tough call for me to remove the TwinLoc since I did use it quite often but the simpler approach with a clean look and having the dropper lever in a much better position might be more my style

    Do you have a part number for the Grip top cap that's needed?
    Thinking of maybe doing the same thing

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    Do you have a part number for the Grip top cap that's needed?
    Thinking of maybe doing the same thing
    I actually had my LBS order the top cap for me, he took an ID number off the fork to make sure I get the correct item.

    Iíll post the part number and a photo up as soon as I get it 👍

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    Ditching the Twinloc?-1e3c4f79-3fb2-46ed-8f2b-fd5e79b66f59.jpg

    I'm glad my bike came with the remote that sits above the bar. This made room for the dropper remote "shifter" style to be installed underneath.

    I honestly love having the twinloc. It comes in handy so many times and it's like 2nd nature to me when riding but to each their own~
    My bike is all tricked out. It has pedals, a handle bar, a seat and two wheels! H8tRs gunna H8t!

  9. #9
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    I have a wolf tooth lever for my dropper and a fox 3 position lever to control my fox nude shock. Hoping to swap in a hsc/lsc cartridge on my fox 36 float over the winter...

    I ditched it mainly because i didn't like the aesthetic or ergonomics of the combined dropper/twinlock lever.... feels fine with my fork full open. cockpit looks are vastly improved IMO as well.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidSpin View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm glad my bike came with the remote that sits above the bar. This made room for the dropper remote "shifter" style to be installed underneath.

    I honestly love having the twinloc. It comes in handy so many times and it's like 2nd nature to me when riding but to each their own~
    That Twinloc does help keep the dropper lever in a good position, it was awkward to use the dropper with the intergrated lever my came with.

    Quote Originally Posted by Terrapin_Ben View Post
    I have a wolf tooth lever for my dropper and a fox 3 position lever to control my fox nude shock. Hoping to swap in a hsc/lsc cartridge on my fox 36 float over the winter...

    I ditched it mainly because i didn't like the aesthetic or ergonomics of the combined dropper/twinlock lever.... feels fine with my fork full open. cockpit looks are vastly improved IMO as well.
    The Fox 3 position lever sounds like a nice option if I decide I need it later, still one less cable then the Twinloc

    I'm wondering if I could swap out my GX shifter for an I-Spec II XTR shifter to clean up the cockpit even more and get the pull option I like with Shimano shifters

    Do you have a photo of the Fox lever?
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post

    I'm wondering if I could swap out my GX shifter for an I-Spec II XTR shifter to clean up the cockpit even more and get the pull option I like with Shimano shifters

    Do you have a photo of the Fox lever?
    No photos, sorry. BUT i did do a similar thing to clean up my cockpit, except I'm running hope brake levers with the direct mount clamp and the shimano xtr i-spec II. Looks very nice, IMO. Gotta have a shimano rear derailleur obviously.

    I'll work on getting a photo but it will probably take a while...

  12. #12
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    Heres my twinlock - brake lever - dropper lever setup..

    Might look ugly but it works very well ...


    Ditching the Twinloc?-twinlocksetup.jpg

  13. #13
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    So I have a question: can the Twinloc be used to control the rear shock and a dropper, but not the fork? In other words, repurpose one of the levers for a dropper cable. I'm considering the new Spark 900, but I don't want a remote on the fork, just the shock. And a dropper post, internally routed. I'm guessing this is possible if the levers move independently...but I'm ignorant of how the Twinloc actually works. Obviously it wouldn't work if the levers are indeed "locked." But if not, it would be a cleaner look and solve the issue of not wanting a fork remote.
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMay View Post
    So I have a question: can the Twinloc be used to control the rear shock and a dropper, but not the fork? In other words, repurpose one of the levers for a dropper cable. I'm considering the new Spark 900, but I don't want a remote on the fork, just the shock. And a dropper post, internally routed. I'm guessing this is possible if the levers move independently...but I'm ignorant of how the Twinloc actually works. Obviously it wouldn't work if the levers are indeed "locked." But if not, it would be a cleaner look and solve the issue of not wanting a fork remote.
    My gut answer is "nope"

    Think about how the Twinloc lever works in relation to a dropper post lever. Sure, they both tug on a cable but that's where the similarities end.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMay View Post
    So I have a question: can the Twinloc be used to control the rear shock and a dropper, but not the fork? In other words, repurpose one of the levers for a dropper cable. I'm considering the new Spark 900, but I don't want a remote on the fork, just the shock. And a dropper post, internally routed. I'm guessing this is possible if the levers move independently...but I'm ignorant of how the Twinloc actually works. Obviously it wouldn't work if the levers are indeed "locked." But if not, it would be a cleaner look and solve the issue of not wanting a fork remote.
    I don't believe it would work that way... but, you can get a seperate dropper lever and a seperate Fox CTD lever to control only the rear shock.

    This will be my solution to if I decide I would like the ability to lock out the shock again in the future.

    PS, still haven't received the Fox top cap for the GRIP fork, I'll head to the LBS tomorrow and find out what the hold up is. Then post the part number.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    I don't believe it would work that way... but, you can get a seperate dropper lever and a seperate Fox CTD lever to control only the rear shock.

    This will be my solution to if I decide I would like the ability to lock out the shock again in the future.

    PS, still haven't received the Fox top cap for the GRIP fork, I'll head to the LBS tomorrow and find out what the hold up is. Then post the part number.

    The Grip damper top interface for the non-remote version should be P/N: 820-05-238-KIT

    I'm not clear if the non-remote knob/lever will bolt right up to the topcap of the remote Grip fork, or if you will need the entire top cap assembly from the non-remote damper to make it work.

    Fox documentation for 2018 shows a different topcap assembly between remote and non-remote Grip Dampers. (not the knob, but the actual topcap assembly that threads into the fork uppers.) I can't see any real differences between exploded drawings...

    Grip Remote topcap assembly P/N: 820-05-442-KIT
    Grip Non-remote topcap assembly P/N: 820-05-441-KIT

    So I am interested to find out what you hear from your LBS, or what they actually have on order.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    The Grip damper top interface for the non-remote version should be P/N: 820-05-238-KIT

    Grip Remote topcap assembly P/N: 820-05-442-KIT
    Grip Non-remote topcap assembly P/N: 820-05-441-KIT

    So I am interested to find out what you hear from your LBS, or what they actually have on order.
    I went to the LBS on Friday but Fox sent the wrong part, so hopefully the correct part shows up next week or the week after... I'll post it up as soon as I get it.

    In the meantime I upgraded the GX shifter and rear mech to XTR and getting ready to install a set of Race Face Next SL G4 cranks so Christmas came early.
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  18. #18
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    The ergonomics of the DT dual lever looks better with a proper dropper lever for a 1x system. Does anyone know if you could use one of those with fox shocks?
    https://1554652485.rsc.cdn77.org/i/p...23913_00_c.jpg

  19. #19
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    Installed FOX CTD Shock Lever

    I went ahead and installed the Fox CTD shock lever this morning.

    The Wolftooth dropper lever and Fox CTD shock lever function so much nicer then the Scott TwinLoc system and look much nicer too ... I am happy.

    Still waiting for the topcap from Fox to be delivered to my LBS, they have 3 topcaps coming first week in January... I'll keep you updated on the part number I end up with and post some pictures

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2330.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2329.jpg
    Last edited by Hesher123; 12-25-2017 at 12:38 AM.

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    Hi,
    I have a 2016 Scott Genius LT 710 Plus and I'm considering dropping the twinloc myself so I can run a tidier bar with a 1x reverb remote. I tend not to use the twinloc too much anyway. So a quick look at the manual online via the Scott website say my rear shock is 217x60 which is not a standard size. I was wondering whether a 216x63 standard size would work? Any thoughts? For the fork I'm just going to replace the top cap with the standard fox 36 one.

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    So fresh and so clean clean - Looks GOOD!
    Last edited by Terrapin_Ben; 01-09-2018 at 09:15 AM. Reason: add quote image

  22. #22
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    Ditching the Twinloc?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rolanddmc View Post
    Heres my twinlock - brake lever - dropper lever setup..

    Might look ugly but it works very well ...


    Click image for larger version. 

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    How far do you have to stretch your thumb? Like i have xxl hands and that looks like a stretch.

    I got a raceface dropper and run a twinloc on my top fuel. Thinking i might put the lever between the brake and grip on my right side vs inside my brake on the left

    Its for xc so i wont be using it much, specially not at any races around here, mainly playing around on my local trails.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  23. #23
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    Love my twinlock, forget to use it sometimes but when I do it seems to work on steeper uphills.
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  24. #24
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    Fox CTD splitter

    So it didnít workout with the top cap. According to my LBS I need to change the internals although Iím not totally convinced and will look into this again at another time.

    For now I went ahead and had them add the Fox CTD splitter to control the fork and shock together.

    Ditching the Twinloc?-72c605c1-ba45-4da7-b835-bc877c4f4d0d.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-d352c52f-70d4-4644-a69e-a3cca558f468.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-img_2452.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-dbca068a-e868-4b75-b960-a63994ec2a13.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-8e693ce9-3260-40b3-9ebf-3cbd647e18b6.jpg

    Ditching the Twinloc?-a2754d1e-4ad9-45d8-9649-a5ea2ae11fa2.jpg
    Last edited by Hesher123; 02-18-2018 at 02:36 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    How far do you have to stretch your thumb? Like i have xxl hands and that looks like a stretch.
    .

    Bike came built with the dropper lever positioned between grip and twinlock but within 5-600mtrs of the first ride I knew it had to be moved further away..

    The fine tuning of things like this is all down to the rider, this setup works really well for me even when riding @ a decent pace along technical trails...

    .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    Hi everyone,
    Has anyone ditched the Scott Twinloc?
    I stripped out the bolt on mine on my 2017 Spark and decided to just leave the shock open and buy a Wolf Tooth ReMote with Ispec-II for the dropper post and new knob for the fork.

    Has anyone else done something similar or think this is a bad idea?

    I would really like to know and ask everyone who has removed the twinloc, what the suspension is like without it? Is there a great deal of play or bob. I am considering the Giant Anthem which claims pedaling efficiency without a lockout. I don't like to use lockouts but I like the spark and I am trying to decide between the two. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

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    Quote Originally Posted by archiedividend View Post
    I would really like to know and ask everyone who has removed the twinloc, what the suspension is like without it? Is there a great deal of play or bob. I am considering the Giant Anthem which claims pedaling efficiency without a lockout. I don't like to use lockouts but I like the spark and I am trying to decide between the two. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
    Spark or Spark RC? Anthem or Anthem 29er? (I ask because there is a big difference in suspension travel and it may make a difference)

    For me I thought it rode fine without the Twinloc and there was very little bob (my opinion)... but I really missed the option to lock out and I actually ride mostly in the middle firmer setting.
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  28. #28
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    I ditched the Twinloc and added the DT ODL lock and a Wolftooth. The ergonomics are much better. The DT doesn't pull as much cable, so you get Descend, something .8 of the way to Trail, and something .5 between Trail and Lock. I think a lot of people might prefer that configuration. Plus the Wolftooth ergonomics are way better than the Twinloc for the dropper.
    Ditching the Twinloc?-1521502263074.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    Spark or Spark RC? Anthem or Anthem 29er? (I ask because there is a big difference in suspension travel and it may make a difference)

    For me I thought it rode fine without the Twinloc and there was very little bob (my opinion)... but I really missed the option to lock out and I actually ride mostly in the middle firmer setting.
    I was looking at the Anthem and the Spark mostly, both in 27.5 inch wheels. Everything has changed since I last rode consistently. Currently riding a Giant XTC hardtail, 26 inch wheels, SID XX 100mm fork. A blast from the past compared to everything I see today!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by archiedividend View Post
    I would really like to know and ask everyone who has removed the twinloc, what the suspension is like without it? Is there a great deal of play or bob. I am considering the Giant Anthem which claims pedaling efficiency without a lockout. I don't like to use lockouts but I like the spark and I am trying to decide between the two. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
    IMO the Scott bikes without a lockout pedal awful, we sell both the Anthem and the Spark and the new Anthem blows away the Spark for pedal efficiency, but if you use the twinloc the Scott is a better option, it limits the bobbing and just rips DH in the open mode. If you do not like lockouts, stay away from the Scott IMO, another option to look at is the Norco Revolver, that bike pedals better then either the other 2 without a lockout.

  31. #31
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    5 year old Anthem 29er in open position pedals way better then spark 900 rc wc 2017. Buy anthem if you do not like twinlock. i have both bikes, using anthem for "winter" bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    I ditched the Twinloc and added the DT ODL lock and a Wolftooth. The ergonomics are much better. The DT doesn't pull as much cable, so you get Descend, something .8 of the way to Trail, and something .5 between Trail and Lock. I think a lot of people might prefer that configuration. Plus the Wolftooth ergonomics are way better than the Twinloc for the dropper.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Can I ask where you found this remote? Looks like a good solution.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davidream View Post
    Hy!
    I use my Twinlock a lot! and like you did, mainly between open/medium.
    The thing is, you can remove it from the fork no hassle about it,just a few more $ in a new topcap, but you wil be missing also the control of the shock...and to me it's one of the best features of the Spark! to be able to control all of the platform along the ride i make.
    But, because a lot of issues with the 2017 remote on the Fox fork's...it's comon to see/ear people removing it.
    Yes, with every Scott I replace the fork remote with a normal adjuster but I like the rear shock remote. For a XC or Trail bike I think it's a big advantage to change the sag without removing my hands from the bars. On my 2017 Spark RC I run the under bar shock remote with 9point8's steapost remote that's meant for mulitring bikes. The other option was using the above bar Twinlock remote with a Wolftooth below bar seatpost remote but I didn't like the look of the above bar Twinlock.

    Ditching the Twinloc?-20170621_153911.jpg
    Keep the Country country.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    Do you have a part number for the Grip top cap that's needed?
    Thinking of maybe doing the same thing
    You can order from Fox over the phone. They'll ask for the fork's ID#.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oab1 View Post
    Can I ask where you found this remote? Looks like a good solution.
    Sorry, missed your question.
    https://www.bike-components.de/en/DT...-Stage-p42494/
    Order some tires while you're at it to making shipping worthwhile.

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    Really interested in everyone's responses as I am considering upgrading my 2015 Spark's suspension. I really like my twinloc (above bar mount) and have had no issues. But if I upgrade to 2019 fork and shock, the twinloc isn't compatible. The cheapest/easiest route is to ditch it. I have a dropper with a wolftooth remote mounted under my bar so the newer twinlocs wouldn't work with that configuration. My suspension "guy" said ditch the twinloc as the newer forks and shocks run better in open mode and I won't need the twinloc. Any useful advice would be appreciated.

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    If you're upgrading to Fox or Rockshox then yes you can still use the remote lockout. You just need to get the compatible Pulley cap.

    If you're not upgrading to either of the 2 brands then yeah u may be out of luck.

    The twinloc also comes in 2 flavors. Top mounted or bottom mounted.

  38. #38
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    The 2019 Fox / RS forks and shocks may not have compatible TwinLoc parts available for them just yet.

    As I've said in previous posts, the TwinLoc is probably one of the biggest reasons I went with SCOTT when I first started looking seriously at mountain bikes. I use the lever almost as regularly as I do the gears or the dropper. It saves energy on the longer rides, makes the descents quicker and the climbs more efficient. It's a huge advantage the have 3 bikes in 1 but I suppose a lot of it comes down to the type of riding you do.
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    Are you guys saying that my current twinloc would be compatible with 2019 Fox Forks/Shocks with new twinloc cable adapters or would I be required to change the entire twinloc?
    Also, am I correct after reading your post that a new compatible twinloc is (will be) available in above bar and below bar configurations?
    TIA.

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    need to bump this thread up. I'm thinking about trying the new fox full lock/open lever to replace the twinloc- has anyone tried this? My twinloc remote makes going into a full lock quite the chore because its so hard to push it there. Literally, near the end of a ride I can't even engage it because my thumb is so fatigued.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-bar View Post
    need to bump this thread up. I'm thinking about trying the new fox full lock/open lever to replace the twinloc- has anyone tried this? My twinloc remote makes going into a full lock quite the chore because its so hard to push it there. Literally, near the end of a ride I can't even engage it because my thumb is so fatigued.
    I ditched my Fox NUDE rear shock and FIT4 36 Twinloc stuff and put in a regular DPS EVOL and a 36 GRIP2 damper and never looking back. Put that stuff for sale up on PB. The new Genius bikes pedal so well to begin with I just don't see the point in lock-outs but maybe that's just me...

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-bar View Post
    need to bump this thread up. I'm thinking about trying the new fox full lock/open lever to replace the twinloc- has anyone tried this? My twinloc remote makes going into a full lock quite the chore because its so hard to push it there. Literally, near the end of a ride I can't even engage it because my thumb is so fatigued.
    Good lord. You never once tried to adjust the barrel adjusters? The reason why your twinloc is so hard to push is because you need to let off the tension by turning the barrel adjusters.

    Before you go and spend money on something that's $$ and inferior (in my humble opinion) I'd try adjusting it first

    @R3D2 The Genius doesn't pedal well fully open. I guess you never gunned it up a climb before? Trust me travel position or fully locked out helps conserve your energy and puts more energy into the pedals without any loss.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidSpin View Post
    Good lord. You never once tried to adjust the barrel adjusters? The reason why your twinloc is so hard to push is because you need to let off the tension by turning the barrel adjusters.

    Before you go and spend money on something that's $$ and inferior (in my humble opinion) I'd try adjusting it first

    @R3D2 The Genius doesn't pedal well fully open. I guess you never gunned it up a climb before? Trust me travel position or fully locked out helps conserve your energy and puts more energy into the pedals without any loss.
    If you say so but I think we just have value different things. I think it pedals great as is and I climb all the time at various speeds. I prefer to keep it simple and not give up the decending prowess that a 150mm bike should have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by R3D2 View Post
    If you say so but I think we just have value different things. I think it pedals great as is and I climb all the time at various speeds. I prefer to keep it simple and not give up the decending prowess that a 150mm bike should have.
    What in the world are you talking about? I get that you want to keep it simple, that's fair. It's your bike do whatever you want, it's all good.

    But when you write "and not give up the decending (sic) prowess that a 150mm bike should have."

    You're completely wrong. I'm not sure you fully understand how the twinloc works. 3 modes the rider gets to choose from. One of which is fully open. meaning the bike uses full travel (150mm both front and back) so that's basically as if you didn't have the twinloc at all.

    Sorry, I'm not trying to be rude but I want to clear that up so that other people who may read your post don't get the wrong idea about Scott's Twinloc system.
    My bike is all tricked out. It has pedals, a handle bar, a seat and two wheels! H8tRs gunna H8t!

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    Yes, I can read the marketing material just like anyone else. You give up adjustment that you would otherwise have without the twinloc system, adjustment features that are found on the RC2 and now the GRIP2 36 forks and DPS EVOL rear shock, or any other good fork or shock out there. If you, or others donít care about that stuff then thatís perfectly fine. Sorry, I'm not trying to be rude but I want to clear that up so that other people who may read your post don't get the wrong idea about Scott's Twinloc system. Iíll leave you to you police the Scott forum now, bye.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-bar View Post
    need to bump this thread up. I'm thinking about trying the new fox full lock/open lever to replace the twinloc- has anyone tried this? My twinloc remote makes going into a full lock quite the chore because its so hard to push it there. Literally, near the end of a ride I can't even engage it because my thumb is so fatigued.
    One of the cables is probably too tight.
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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    One of the cables is probably too tight.
    I should have specified that I'm riding a 2018 Scott Spark RC Team edition w a Fox SC 32. The twinloc has the three position: full open, 70% and lock out. The first two work great and are easy to actuate. In order for the lock out to work properly, the cable needs to actuate the lockout all the way to the full lock out position otherwise it will not lock out properly leaving it in the 70% mode. In doing so, the cable tension does get tight at the very end. The Fox SC 32 has a history of lock out issues so Fox is part of the problem too. I love the 70% feature but if I had to choose, I'd take full open and lock out which is why I'm looking at the new Fox remote 2 function remote.
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  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by R3D2 View Post
    Yes, I can read the marketing material just like anyone else. You give up adjustment that you would otherwise have without the twinloc system, adjustment features that are found on the RC2 and now the GRIP2 36 forks and DPS EVOL rear shock, or any other good fork or shock out there. If you, or others donít care about that stuff then thatís perfectly fine. Sorry, I'm not trying to be rude but I want to clear that up so that other people who may read your post don't get the wrong idea about Scott's Twinloc system. Iíll leave you to you police the Scott forum now, bye.
    Thanks for being a jerk. Clearly, I wasn't trying to be rude and clearly stated so but you decided to be an ass anyways.

    So, please do enlighten me on how having the twinloc system forces me to give up tuning adjustments on the suspension?

    I run the 2018 Factory 150mm 34 fork which didn't come with the bike. I upgraded and I lost nothing in terms of adjustment.

    The rear shock between the nude and the regular are no different either. Both come with locked out, travel, and fully open modes along with a rebound adjuster.

    So please explain how having the twinloc blocks us from adjusting our suspension.
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  49. #49
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    Two Questions:

    1. The Twinloc barrel adjusters. The ones with the plastic adjuster don't appear to fit a cable ferrule. Is that true? See post #8 for the aluminum adjuster and post #12 for the plastic version.

    2. Does anyone have the integrated dropper/twinloc underbar for the Nude 3 they want to sell?

    My two bikes have the version with plastic that I don't think takes ferrules which doesn't seem like a good design and is less direct of a feeling on the system.

    Thanks.
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  50. #50
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    @R3D2

    So 3 weeks ago I asked you to explain your statement: "You give up adjustment that you would otherwise have without the twinloc system"

    instead you give me a negative/red and tell me I'm a "Cry baby"

    Well...I'm still waiting for an answer.
    My bike is all tricked out. It has pedals, a handle bar, a seat and two wheels! H8tRs gunna H8t!

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidSpin View Post
    @R3D2

    So 3 weeks ago I asked you to explain your statement: "You give up adjustment that you would otherwise have without the twinloc system"

    instead you give me a negative/red and tell me I'm a "Cry baby"

    Well...I'm still waiting for an answer.
    Don't wanna take sides, and I donít actually own a bike with Twinloc, but I feel like this deserves some real discussion. In the 2018 Bible, Bike mag identifies that the Genius 920 shock could not be tuned to the extent they wanted. It lacked midstroke support, and without tunable compression, there was nothing they could do about that. I have read a rumour that this will be addressed on high-end Genius models for 2019.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thaumaturge View Post
    Don't wanna take sides, and I donít actually own a bike with Twinloc, but I feel like this deserves some real discussion. In the 2018 Bible, Bike mag identifies that the Genius 920 shock could not be tuned to the extent they wanted. It lacked midstroke support, and without tunable compression, there was nothing they could do about that. I have read a rumour that this will be addressed on high-end Genius models for 2019.
    No worries, I'm always up for a mature discussion on anything bike related. I think there just happens to be a few people that just take things the wrong way and get super offended.

    Scott's very own rear shock from Fox dubbed the "Nude" has 2 adjustments: 1.) A 3 way switch 2.) A rebound switch. No different than the Fox factory rear shock. Both Nude and Factory shocks you're able to add or remove internal spacers.

    The only slight difference is the "Nude" has a slightly bigger air spring volume. So to my very point in the beginning regardless of the Twinloc the user can tune it as if they had a stock Fox rear shock.


    Side by side comparison of the Nude shock vs. Factory shock:
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    Ditching the Twinloc?-p4pb15246295.jpg


    I will add there are riders who complain that the stock rear shock is not enough for the type of riding they do. They'd like to swap it out with something like the DPX2 or the X2 shock but unfortunately from what I understand it will not fit the current Genius/Spark frames. Again, not the fault of the Twinloc remote but due to the type of rear shock.

    For example let's say your "Non-Scott" bike came with the Fox Factory Float DPS rear shock, no matter how you tune it it may not be the right type of shock for your type of riding which is exactly why Fox has these two other options: DPX2 or X2.

    When you talk about "tune-able compression" are you referring to the Fork or the rear shock?

    As for the new 2019 Fox rear shock on the higher end models it does come with something no other DPS shock has had before and that's the ability to ramp up the volume or decrease the volume making it either more progressive or more linear. This is exciting news to me because it lets the rider avoid letting out the air and opening up the canister to remove or add volume spacers. Brilliant idea
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ditching the Twinloc?-tecnologia-amortiguador.jpg  

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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidSpin View Post
    Scott's very own rear shock from Fox dubbed the "Nude" has 2 adjustments: 1.) A 3 way switch 2.) A rebound switch. No different than the Fox factory rear shock. Both Nude and Factory shocks you're able to add or remove internal spacers.
    ...
    When you talk about "tune-able compression" are you referring to the Fork or the rear shock?

    As for the new 2019 Fox rear shock on the higher end models it does come with something no other DPS shock has had before and that's the ability to ramp up the volume or decrease the volume making it either more progressive or more linear. This is exciting news to me because it lets the rider avoid letting out the air and opening up the canister to remove or add volume spacers. Brilliant idea
    Sounds like both:
    ďThere's also the inability to fine-tune fork- and shock-compression settings outside of what Scott and Fox have decided to be the default. ... The option to fine-tune compression damping may have readied the Genius for more abusive riding.Ē

    But I agree with you, that is kind of a weird comment given that the ubiquitous DPS EVOL does not appear to have fine tuning on compression either. It does have something called "Open mode tuning range" with three positions, whatever that might mean. Maybe that's enough adjustment to make bike reviewers happy. In any event, they definitely weren't blown away by the Genius's descending chops.

    That forthcoming ability to externally achieve the same effect as adding volume spacers should be amazing! I wonder where "high end" starts in Scott's lineup. Hopefully somewhere below the "Tuned" models, but I have a feeling that is exactly what they mean. No $10K bikes in my near future, unfortunately.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thaumaturge View Post
    Sounds like both:
    ďThere's also the inability to fine-tune fork- and shock-compression settings outside of what Scott and Fox have decided to be the default. ... The option to fine-tune compression damping may have readied the Genius for more abusive riding.Ē

    But I agree with you, that is kind of a weird comment given that the ubiquitous DPS EVOL does not appear to have fine tuning on compression either. It does have something called "Open mode tuning range" with three positions, whatever that might mean. Maybe that's enough adjustment to make bike reviewers happy. In any event, they definitely weren't blown away by the Genius's descending chops.

    That forthcoming ability to externally achieve the same effect as adding volume spacers should be amazing! I wonder where "high end" starts in Scott's lineup. Hopefully somewhere below the "Tuned" models, but I have a feeling that is exactly what they mean. No $10K bikes in my near future, unfortunately.
    Yeah, I "high end" is definitely their tuned model...which ranges from $8k - $10k

    When it comes to reviews the new Genius gets good reviews (better reviews than the previous model) but yeah, when they compare it to other bikes like the Evil or Yeti they make note that the Genius isn't as capable as some other bikes in it's class when going downhill. Maybe this is why Scott markets the Genius as a Trail bike only and not as an Enduro bike?

    After seeing Remy Absalon place #4th this year at the Megavalanche race and 7th last year in 2016 I'd say the Genius can handle the downhills just as well as the ups
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  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidSpin View Post
    Yeah, I "high end" is definitely their tuned model...which ranges from $8k - $10k

    When it comes to reviews the new Genius gets good reviews (better reviews than the previous model) but yeah, when they compare it to other bikes like the Evil or Yeti they make note that the Genius isn't as capable as some other bikes in it's class when going downhill. Maybe this is why Scott markets the Genius as a Trail bike only and not as an Enduro bike?

    After seeing Remy Absalon place #4th this year at the Megavalanche race and 7th last year in 2016 I'd say the Genius can handle the downhills just as well as the ups
    Iím going a little off topic for this thread, but it's funny you should mention that. Iím in the process of auditioning bikes for my next one and the Genius (2018 or newer) is on the list of bikes I'd like to try, in part because of some proven ability in gravity disciplines. Iím nominally looking for a stout, short travel 29er that puts some real emphasis on descending. The Genius isn't exactly that, but it achieves the same thing in a single bike with two modes.

    However, I donít think I can live with a 34, and yeah, the Tuned level looks like it's going to be out of reach. That coupled with the fact that my LBS does Scott only by special order makes it an unlikely proposition unless they put a 36 or a Pike (have we seen any evidence of a suspension arrangement with SRAM? Seems unlikely) to the 920 level or lower.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thaumaturge View Post
    Iím going a little off topic for this thread, but it's funny you should mention that. Iím in the process of auditioning bikes for my next one and the Genius (2018 or newer) is on the list of bikes I'd like to try, in part because of some proven ability in gravity disciplines. Iím nominally looking for a stout, short travel 29er that puts some real emphasis on descending. The Genius isn't exactly that, but it achieves the same thing in a single bike with two modes.

    However, I donít think I can live with a 34, and yeah, the Tuned level looks like it's going to be out of reach. That coupled with the fact that my LBS does Scott only by special order makes it an unlikely proposition unless they put a 36 or a Pike (have we seen any evidence of a suspension arrangement with SRAM? Seems unlikely) to the 920 level or lower.
    Since Scott promotes the Genius as trail only bike it makes sense for them to put a 34 Fox fork. Although, upgrading it to a 36 Fox is an option but I get it, it's an expensive bike and getting a 36 is adding to the already high cost.

    I think riders who really like the geometry and certain features of the Genius will get the frame and build it up as they see fit. I think the frame for a tuned model is hovering in the $3k-$4k (not sure exact cost)

    Nowadays every top of the line bike is bad ass from just about any brand you can think of for example: Trek Slash, Rocky Mountain Slayer, Evil Wreckoning, Yeti SB6, Transition Scout...and so on. You really can't pick a bad bike these days. It all boils down to the small details and build kit selection.

    I do hope Scott does come out with a true/pure Enduro machine in the near future.

    For me I prefer a trail bike it's more than capable for the local trails here where I live and when I do venture out to the big mountain rides or bike parks it's never let me down.
    My bike is all tricked out. It has pedals, a handle bar, a seat and two wheels! H8tRs gunna H8t!

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    I like the TwinLoc. Iím new so it may be my inexperience however it gives me the ability to alter enough to moths scdufference between climbing and descending.
    Having said that Iíve managed to bugger up the grub screw on the dropper lever part so interesting looking at alternatives. I canít find a decent replacement dropper remote that clamps at the lever - the cheap replacement in trying wonít work as it needs the cable end at the lever.
    Suggestions fir a replacement lever or the best place to buy a whole new TwinLoc lever set up. Iím really missing the dropper working!

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoatally View Post
    I like the TwinLoc. Iím new so it may be my inexperience however it gives me the ability to alter enough to moths scdufference between climbing and descending.
    Having said that Iíve managed to bugger up the grub screw on the dropper lever part so interesting looking at alternatives. I canít find a decent replacement dropper remote that clamps at the lever - the cheap replacement in trying wonít work as it needs the cable end at the lever.
    Suggestions fir a replacement lever or the best place to buy a whole new TwinLoc lever set up. Iím really missing the dropper working!
    Couple things.
    ē Metric 4mm grub screw is standard in that lever so you can buy a new one at an ace hardware or online
    ē You can also get a tap and die set to clean up the threads in the lever and the actual grub screw. I just had to do that last week
    ē There is a seller on eBay that has the lever with the dropper
    ē Any 2x style dropper lever will work in the interim. Specialized makes one, Fox Transfer 2x style, Race Face, etc
    ē Iíve seen someone mount the 2x style on the right side so they donít have to do everything with one hand.

    Hope that helps.


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    bumping this. Looking into a used 2017 Spark RC WC. Two people on here posted that there is excessive bob in the open position. Ugh. Is that really the case ? Coming from a 2012 JET 9 RDO which doesn't have a lockout, just a CTD fox shock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vtsteevo View Post
    bumping this. Looking into a used 2017 Spark RC WC. Two people on here posted that there is excessive bob in the open position. Ugh. Is that really the case ? Coming from a 2012 JET 9 RDO which doesn't have a lockout, just a CTD fox shock.
    Open is truly open and very active. It's great for descending, but it's not a great pedaling platform.

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  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtsteevo View Post
    bumping this. Looking into a used 2017 Spark RC WC. Two people on here posted that there is excessive bob in the open position. Ugh. Is that really the case ? Coming from a 2012 JET 9 RDO which doesn't have a lockout, just a CTD fox shock.
    Itís supposed to be that way hence the twinloc. Put it in middle mode for pedaling. If you donít want a lever this isnít the bike for you.


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  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtsteevo View Post
    bumping this. Looking into a used 2017 Spark RC WC. Two people on here posted that there is excessive bob in the open position. Ugh. Is that really the case ? Coming from a 2012 JET 9 RDO which doesn't have a lockout, just a CTD fox shock.
    I wouldn't call it excessive or even significant but maybe compared to some other XC bikes it is. Removing the shock's volume spacer and adding a little air reduces sag and increases support in early and mid-travel. If I feel like the suspension is mushing under pedaling I click the lever to the middle position. However, in practice that doesn't often happen because I'm already in the middle or locked position because I saw that the trail ahead is smooth and I'll be pedaling hard. The lever lets you have a bike that's plush or firm whenever you want in a split second. It's like what Specialized's Brain tries to accomplish except since you can see ahead you can have the suspension already in the correct mode, rather than being a step behind like an inertia valve. I use my shock lever and seatpost lever MUCH more than my shifter.
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    Switched my 2018 Spark 940 to manual lockout up front and kept lever for the rear shock. Working well for me so far!

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Bob View Post
    Switched my 2018 Spark 940 to manual lockout up front and kept lever for the rear shock. Working well for me so far!
    That's the hot setup. 1 less cable and less weight. The remote mechanism on the fork often gets sticky so you remove that potential problem. There are a lot of times that I want the rear in a different setting than the front, often medium rear, soft front. You can't do that with the dual remotes.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Agree 100%! I also upped the front travel to 130mm. Bike is a beast now

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