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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    Well....is your freehub loose ? I doubt you will find any online discussion of what is bascially a house wheelset. I do know that I loaned whatever wheel came with my 910 to my buddy on a trip we were on and he broke the freewheel pawls by the end of the day. I had it warranteed at the LBS of purchase and the mechanic showed me how the "early" version of the hub did not have good support from the outer bearing and he thought that was why the pawls broke. The repair kit actually fitted the outer bearing several mm outboard and used a different end cap.

    So, take that fwiw. I haven't ridden the wheel since then. Not my friend weights 215 lbs of muscle and it was actually the 3rd freehub that had broken on him (the previous one was a Stan's "neo" and he broke the original and the warranty replacement). We were doing a lot of tough climbing in the mountains but still disappointing these were so easy to break . I loaned him my 3rd backup wheel which was a Roval with a DT internal star ratchet style hub and that one didn't break although hard to compare the actual load that was put on the different wheels.
    Didn't get a chance to check the freehub yet. Got home from my ride last night and took off the wheel to check to see if the cassette could be tightened but it was as tight as possible. Going to remove the cassette after work today and see what the freehub looks like.

    It shifts fine on the stand and when my suspension is locked out. But with any movement of the suspension the chain starts dancing all over the cassette.

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    It shifts fine on the stand and when my suspension is locked out. But with any movement of the suspension the chain starts dancing all over the cassette.
    When that happened to me (different bike), it was the rear derailleur mounting bolt that was loose. Steady state was fine, but any bumps or sideways jolts to the bike made the derailleur flop about and change gear, however momentarily.

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemoto885 View Post
    When that happened to me (different bike), it was the rear derailleur mounting bolt that was loose. Steady state was fine, but any bumps or sideways jolts to the bike made the derailleur flop about and change gear, however momentarily.
    Checked exactly that when I got home. Was definitely in need of tightening. Not super loose, but I could move the hanger in the frame by hand a bit. Taking it out tomorrow for a ride. Hopefully that was it 🤞🏻

  4. #604
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    Anyone know what type of hubs are the Revelstoke 2.0 wheels? I am looking to replace the drivetrain with Shimano and trying to figure out if a micro spline is available.

  5. #605
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    My knowledgeable LBS and I looked at that as well and it didn't match anything in particular. You could try calling and digging in until you actually find a Syncros product person, but since Microspline hasn't been available on a whole host of more widely used hubs (at least until recently) it seems doubtful. I would keep pursuing it though if you can, the Shimano shifting works really nicely. Although perhaps not quite enough better to justify a new hub and wheel build.

  6. #606
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    Have you guys see the raw aluminum Ransom?? Saw it in person today and boy what a beautiful bike. I would get it over the carbon version all day long.


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  7. #607
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    Flip-chip on High setting with 29er wheels

    Flip-chip high setting is recommended by Scott for the 27.5 wheelset. Has anyone tried the high setting with a 29er setup?


    This review, if I understood the German correctly, says that "at high mode with 29 wheels, the climbing and low-speed descending ability is improved with not much penalty on high-speed stability."

    If so, it may be a good option to switch it to low setting only in bike parks and use the high setting in most trail riding conditions.

    Any experience or thoughts?

  8. #608
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    Iíve run my Ransom in the high setting with 29Ē wheels. Climbing was a little better and the bike was a little more maneuverable at slow speeds, but there was a penalty in high speed stability and cornering. In the end it wasnít enough for me to want to keep it in the high setting. I tried it because I was curious to see what it felt like. If I was you Iíd give it a try. It takes all of 5 mins (if that) to switch from low to high.

  9. #609
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    Yeah steeper HA obviously, and steeper SA, but I've always felt you can simulate steeper SA by just moving/pitching the seat forward. I used to be a fan of "not so slack" HA, but as I've gotten used to the advantages I've decided I was wrong on that. Although at the same time I wouldn't want it even a half degree slacker, because on super steep pitch/tech climbing it does take much more effort to keep the front wheel straight vs my old E29 at 67.5 degrees.

    So just a long winded way of saying I don't see any significant advantage to raising the bike. I do get a few more pedal strikes than I like but I also refuse to shorten my 175mm cranks and its a small issue, certainly not a big problem like some ultra low bikes, although it does make me laugh at a few reviews I read that said the bb was a touch too high.

    What i do find much more interesting is if you were to go mullett and put a 27.5 on the back, then the high position makes more sense and could be a very intersting combinartion.

    But like Mauserman said, it takes all of 2 minutes to experiment with it.

  10. #610
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    Thank you both for the feedback. I will try it this weekend and see for myself the gains vs. losses at high setting.

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew8404 View Post
    Have you guys see the raw aluminum Ransom?? Saw it in person today and boy what a beautiful bike. I would get it over the carbon version all day long.


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    Moving everything from my 2019 Tuned to a 2020 brushed AL 920
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  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Moving everything from my 2019 Tuned to a 2020 brushed AL 920
    Awesome that will look sweet


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  13. #613
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    Iím looking into buying a Ransom 900 or 910 size XL. On paper, this seems like a great bike for me but some of you have some issues with it. For those that own one, would you buy it again or recommend it? It seems that a lot of people on this thread have an XL but when I look on Pinkbike and EBay, all the used Ransom 900ís are size Large. I almost start to think they didnít make many XL versions.
    What other bikes are similar to this bike, Firebird 29, Canyon Strive? I donít like the Yetiís because they donít have much tire clearance in the rear. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

  14. #614
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    I would absolutely buy another Ransom. Iíve put over 1,200 miles on mine and had zero issues. As for sizing, Iím 6í and riding a size large. I wanted a bike that was a little more maneuverable. I do a lot of climbing. If I was more into shuttling Iíd have gotten an XL.

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauserman View Post
    I would absolutely buy another Ransom. Iíve put over 1,200 miles on mine and had zero issues. As for sizing, Iím 6í and riding a size large. I wanted a bike that was a little more maneuverable. I do a lot of climbing. If I was more into shuttling Iíd have gotten an XL.
    Thanks for your response, what year and model do you have?

  16. #616
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    I have a 2019 Large 910 (although I swapped all the parts). I'm 5'11" more long torso than legs. Its perfect for me, any longer would just be too cumbersome on my favorite trails (more back country than enduro). Put it this way - I like it so much I've contemplated buying a 900 tuned version just to save those precious 300g, and I've also thought about buying a second one to put a 40 on the front and a coil on the back so I can have my lighter weight back country enduro worthy trail rig and a full on DownDuro bike. The list of 170mm 29'ers is pretty short, and all of them are heavier than the Scott. I like that the geo of the Ransom is modern but not overkill, it still feels like a trail bike. But the first time you DH on it and feel how much that back end can soak up you will get a big smile on your face.

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    Iím looking into buying a Ransom 900 or 910 size XL. On paper, this seems like a great bike for me but some of you have some issues with it. For those that own one, would you buy it again or recommend it? It seems that a lot of people on this thread have an XL but when I look on Pinkbike and EBay, all the used Ransom 900ís are size Large. I almost start to think they didnít make many XL versions.
    What other bikes are similar to this bike, Firebird 29, Canyon Strive? I donít like the Yetiís because they donít have much tire clearance in the rear. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
    Seriously, you'll love the Ransom. I'm 6' and on an XL. I prefer really short 32mm stems, so it fits me perfectly. It's a big bike for sure, but man is it fast and makes up for all of my inability to really ride it. I actually test rode a large and thought that was my size, but after throwing a leg over the XL, I realized it was a nice fit for what I wanted. I'm not sure I'd buy one if I was any shorter, but i think 6'+ it's a good bet. I have the 910 and basically overbuilt it and added a coil shock. I'm a new bike per year guy, so I'm seriously considering just buying a new 900. If I do, you'll see an XL up for sale so keep an eye out.
    Scott Ransom 910/Evil Insurgent/Chromag Primer...always wanting more!!

  18. #618
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    Thanks for the responses, Iím pretty set on an XL since Iím 6.2Ē with long legs and arms. There are so many Large Ransoms for sale on Pinkbike now.
    I actually havenít even ridden a Ransom yet but I just really love the specs and reviews. I was a kinda worried about the issues some people are having with the rear shock. Iíd hate the buy a higher priced used bike and not having the warranty support from a bike shop if I have a problem with the shock or something.

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    Thanks for the responses, Iím pretty set on an XL since Iím 6.2Ē with long legs and arms. There are so many Large Ransoms for sale on Pinkbike now.
    I actually havenít even ridden a Ransom yet but I just really love the specs and reviews. I was a kinda worried about the issues some people are having with the rear shock. Iíd hate the buy a higher priced used bike and not having the warranty support from a bike shop if I have a problem with the shock or something.
    You definitely need the XL. I'm 6'1 and love the way the XL feels. There isn't a problem with the shock. The problem is with the plastic IGUS bushing that is pressed into the frame. The bushing wears down over time which leads to play in the shock mount. A new bushing fixes it. Not a deal breaker but the bushing should last longer than it does. I only get about 250-300 miles out of a bushing before the play starts up again.

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    Thanks for your response, what year and model do you have?
    I have the 2019 900 tuned

  21. #621
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    I got the chance to ride the ransom today back to back with the new S Enduro and also a Yeti SB165 and I still choose the Ransom. It descends very similar to the enduro but climbs 3x better. Didn't use the twinloc at all today to try and keep it more fair. I think I'll be going from an XL back down to an L for 2020 just to be more upright after some back issues this year. I also think after not using twinloc at all I'm going to remove it and go a different route....

    Geometry compared to the Yeti was super similar but the Yeti was a couple pounds heavier and it was the top of the line build with 1300g wheels. It did peak my interest into a set of 27.5 wheels to make the bike a little more playful though.
    Denver, CO

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    I got the chance to ride the ransom today back to back with the new S Enduro and also a Yeti SB165 and I still choose the Ransom. It descends very similar to the enduro but climbs 3x better. Didn't use the twinloc at all today to try and keep it more fair. I think I'll be going from an XL back down to an L for 2020 just to be more upright after some back issues this year. I also think after not using twinloc at all I'm going to remove it and go a different route....

    Geometry compared to the Yeti was super similar but the Yeti was a couple pounds heavier and it was the top of the line build with 1300g wheels. It did peak my interest into a set of 27.5 wheels to make the bike a little more playful though.
    Nice, wish I was able to test ride all these 3 bikes back to back. Which Ransom did you ride, the newest 2020 900 tuned?

  23. #623
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    The only non-cosmetic differences between 2019 and 2020 Tuned models are the brakes (coda vs xt), saddle, and +25mm dropper post length. They should be pretty similar in ride.

  24. #624
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    ode to full lockout

    In most reviews I've seen, the full lockout mode on twinlock seems to be underappreciated. I have been riding the 2019 Tuned for a month now, most rides including 1000-1500m Alpine climbs. I use the full lockout ~70% of the climb time.

    Big part of these climbs are not technical, smoothish dirt roads. I think this is the norm rather than an exception for most long climbs; I cannot imagine climbing full technical for that long anyways! I switch between traction and full lockout depending on how rough the terrain is. Most of the time, I prefer the efficiency of the full lockout. Tire pressure is often good enough to smooth out the trail.

    For me, the real benefit of full lockout is the ability to drop down a gear or two and stand up pedal for a minute or so every so often. This is a habit from road cycling; switching between seated and stand-up pedaling really helps with rhythm and relaxing contact points during the long sustained climbs. It is possible to stand-up pedal in traction mode too, but some bobbing is inevitable. I much prefer the full lockout.

    On asphalt commute sections full lockout is a no brainer. One of course doesn't get this bike for asphalt rides, but they are an inevitable part of my rides (train station-to-trail head, loop rides, ...).

    I saw some reporting insignificant difference between open and traction mode. In my setup, the difference is not huge on flats; when the incline gets ~12-13%, however, open mode starts bobbing excessively, traction mode doesn't. One thing I haven't tried yet is riding flow trails in traction mode. I am curious to see if the bike really rides like a short travel.

    So far, I am very happy with the twinloc system; I would not want to ditch it for my style of riding. One small glitch is that after riding on full lockout, if I switch back to traction or open mode while my weight is still on the forks, the twinloc cap is momentarily stuck in the full lockout mode. I have to pull a little on the handlebars to release the pressure off the full lockout mechanism and switch to traction/open mode.

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    Nice, wish I was able to test ride all these 3 bikes back to back. Which Ransom did you ride, the newest 2020 900 tuned?
    I've put about 800 miles on my XL tuned 900 from 2019. I had a large 910 loaner yesterday and the other two bikes belonged to friends.
    Denver, CO

  26. #626
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    Does anyone know how many cables will fit in the hole on rider's right of the head tube? I just bought a 2019 Ransom 900 Tuned and ride with moto style brakes (front brake on right side of bars.) There are so many darn cables on the left side of the bars but I definitely need to reroute the rear brake to the right side headtube because it is probably the most stiff out of all of them. Not that is matters but I am removing the fork cable and going with grip2. I have seen photos and vids of the ransom set up moto syle and many of them have only one cable (shifter cable) going into the left side of the head tube and then a gob of cables going into right side headtube. I didn't know if they modified the opening or if there was a different part Scott sells that will let you get more than two cables through.

    I have learned a lot about the Ransom in this thread so thanks for all your comments. For reference, I am 5'11 with very long legs and a very short torso so it was a no brainer that I got a Large. Having this body type I have learned tall bikes fit me well even with only modest reach numbers. I am a little concerned the stack of the Large is only 627mm but I hope the 115mm head tube length makes it feel a little taller. Also, with a reach of 466mm on the large, I have room to raise the handlebars without decreasing the reach to too short a number. Thanks again.

  27. #627
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    Quote Originally Posted by arpatoz View Post
    The only non-cosmetic differences between 2019 and 2020 Tuned models are the brakes (coda vs xt), saddle, and +25mm dropper post length. They should be pretty similar in ride.
    The 2020 920 gets the longer dropper and wider bars only in the larger sizes (L and XL). And the au naturale aluminium frame colour.

    The only thing the smaller sizes got was the colour.

  28. #628
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcg724 View Post
    Does anyone know how many cables will fit in the hole on rider's right of the head tube? I just bought a 2019 Ransom 900 Tuned and ride with moto style brakes (front brake on right side of bars.) There are so many darn cables on the left side of the bars but I definitely need to reroute the rear brake to the right side headtube because it is probably the most stiff out of all of them. Not that is matters but I am removing the fork cable and going with grip2. I have seen photos and vids of the ransom set up moto syle and many of them have only one cable (shifter cable) going into the left side of the head tube and then a gob of cables going into right side headtube. I didn't know if they modified the opening or if there was a different part Scott sells that will let you get more than two cables through.
    In this part of the world there is no moto style brakes; that's just normal. :-)

    My bike has the left (rear) brake going in to the left frame port, along with the rear shifter. The right port has the shock TwinLoc cable and seat dropper.

    Bear in mind that a hydraulic hose is less impaired by a tight bend radius (and multiple bends in quick succession) than a cable.
    Last edited by bikemoto885; 12-10-2019 at 04:13 AM. Reason: Bloody auto-correct.

  29. #629
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    Thanks for the info and that is a good point on the hydraulic cable.

  30. #630
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    anyone use a non syncros dust cap to run a regular style stem and spacers?

  31. #631
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtn_dewd View Post
    anyone use a non syncros dust cap to run a regular style stem and spacers?
    The upper headset cup dust cover is a funky size. Closest matching size I could find came from FSA but I don't recall what it was.
    Denver, CO

  32. #632
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    Has anyone successfully ran a DVO rear shock?
    Denver, CO

  33. #633
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    [QUOTE=Preston67;14444691]Yeah steeper HA obviously, and steeper SA, but I've always felt you can simulate steeper SA by just moving/pitching the seat forward. I used to be a fan of "not so slack" HA, but as I've gotten used to the advantages I've decided I was wrong on that. Although at the same time I wouldn't want it even a half degree slacker, because on super steep pitch/tech climbing it does take much more effort to keep the front wheel straight vs my old E29 at 67.5 degrees.

    So just a long winded way of saying I don't see any significant advantage to raising the bike. I do get a few more pedal strikes than I like but I also refuse to shorten my 175mm cranks and its a small issue, certainly not a big problem like some ultra low bikes, although it does make me laugh at a few reviews I read that said the bb was a touch too high.

    What i do find much more interesting is if you were to go mullett and put a 27.5 on the back, then the high position makes more sense and could be a very intersting combinartion.

    Anyone can tell if a 27.5x3 will fit in the rear?

  34. #634
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    Anyone else still having issues with the vertical play at the trunnion mount? I've gone round and round with Scott about a solution for this and so far nothing has been satisfactory. New hardware was Scott's solution and solves the problem for a bit, but after about 250 miles it comes right back just as bad. I can physically move my rear shock up and down at the trunnion mount about 1.5mm by pulling up on it. Also makes a bad rattle when lifting the bike by the seat. Are any Genius owners also having this issue?

  35. #635
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    So the tape shims are not working for you ? I have a new trunion hardware kit but haven't needed to install it because the shimmed bushings are knock free for me after a half season+.

    If you find you can no longer eliminate the knock with new bushings and/or shimming, you may have enlarged the frame hole. It sounds like a pain, but I"m sure you could have one of the carbon repair places add some material in there and then either you or they could ream it out to the correct dimension (don't just grab a precision drill bit, use the next size down and then use a reamer of the exact size). If you're brave and do your research, you could probably even find some epoxy or resin to put in there yourself, although I think it would be short lived without using some kind of fabric or metal shim layer embedded in the resin.

    But first, put a micrometer on it in 6-8 different positions and determine if it is enlarged and or out of round it is.

  36. #636
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    I installed the washers about 800 miles ago. Itís been perfect since!

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillclimbevo View Post
    I installed the washers about 800 miles ago. Itís been perfect since!
    Just to be clear for everyone there are two different things here - washers that can help tighten up the trunion mount bolts if they bottom out in their thread holes before everything is tight and allow up and down play. This was a problem on a small set of the Fox shocks. Or you may have a tolerance stack up such that there is just plain excessive side to side play that the washers reduce (but there needs to be some play in this). This second issue would not really result in up and down knocking though.

    the other issue is the plastic Igus bushing that's pressed into the frame which is really a wear item but unfortunately only seems to be available as part of a full fledged $20 kit from Scott rather than in a simple 2 pack as they are like a .50 bushing. Still havn'e worked with my LBS guy to see if we can track down an alternate source. Anyway when these start knocking you can shm them with rim tape or equivalent as discussed earlier in this thread.

  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    So the tape shims are not working for you ? I have a new trunion hardware kit but haven't needed to install it because the shimmed bushings are knock free for me after a half season+.

    If you find you can no longer eliminate the knock with new bushings and/or shimming, you may have enlarged the frame hole. It sounds like a pain, but I"m sure you could have one of the carbon repair places add some material in there and then either you or they could ream it out to the correct dimension (don't just grab a precision drill bit, use the next size down and then use a reamer of the exact size). If you're brave and do your research, you could probably even find some epoxy or resin to put in there yourself, although I think it would be short lived without using some kind of fabric or metal shim layer embedded in the resin.

    But first, put a micrometer on it in 6-8 different positions and determine if it is enlarged and or out of round it is.
    The tape does the trick. But it only lasts about as long as the new hardware kit, maybe a little bit less. Maybe about a month or so which is around 175-200 miles of riding.
    Was just hoping someone had heard from Scott about a better solution. I've put a micrometer on it and emailed Scott the results. They say my numbers are perfect.

  39. #639
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    I also replaced the top shock hardware with the RWC needle bearing kit. Super sensitive off the top of the stroke. Had to add about 10 lbs of air to my shock to make up for the lack of friction. Would be nice to just be able to replace the IGUS bushing without buying the whole kit or if they came up with a new material that lasts longer...

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    I also replaced the top shock hardware with the RWC needle bearing kit. Super sensitive off the top of the stroke. Had to add about 10 lbs of air to my shock to make up for the lack of friction. Would be nice to just be able to replace the IGUS bushing without buying the whole kit or if they came up with a new material that lasts longer...
    Which model# RWC Need bearing kit did you purchase? Thanks!

  41. #641
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    https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...EARING-30.html

    This is the one you need. SKU: NBKRWC30

    Kit comes with different tolerances. I believe I started with the middle one and then changed it to the tightest tolerance axle once it broke in.

  42. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...EARING-30.html

    This is the one you need. SKU: NBKRWC30

    Kit comes with different tolerances. I believe I started with the middle one and then changed it to the tightest tolerance axle once it broke in.
    Thanks, bud!

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    Anyone else still having issues with the vertical play at the trunnion mount? I've gone round and round with Scott about a solution for this and so far nothing has been satisfactory. New hardware was Scott's solution and solves the problem for a bit, but after about 250 miles it comes right back just as bad. I can physically move my rear shock up and down at the trunnion mount about 1.5mm by pulling up on it. Also makes a bad rattle when lifting the bike by the seat. Are any Genius owners also having this issue?
    If you are still within the warranty period, you need to write a letter to the company, bypass the shop, summarize who you have interacted with at the company and shop, sign the witness statements that they are true to the best of your ability. Within the letter to the company, state that the bike has a defect, it has not be corrected to allow the bike to work as intended, and ask for their intended plan of resolution within 10 business days. Most of the time, you don't need to do anything more and the company will quickly straighten up and resolve the issue correctly. There seems to be an inherent dragging of feet for bikes that have non-visible issues that compromise the function of the bike. In this case, besides the huge effect on absorbing bumps (any play usually has a huge effect) any free movement/play will continue to knock around and ovalize this hole, which has likely already happened. The problem only gets worse over time. It can not be corrected without going to bigger hardware, which would require machining/re-laying carbon, things that are just not practical. When I've been faced with situations like this in life, I've realized that you have to stop talking to people in person, start documenting everything and communicating via correspondence. You have to provide them written notice, make sure to get the letter sent return-receipt, so you can show they received said letter. If, and this is a big if, you decide to bring someone like the company to small claims court (they would have to show up wherever you file as far as I know), you'd cream them with the document trail. 99% of companies realize this and resolve the issue without having to go this far, the 1% that does go this far gets smacked down in court. It's unfortunate when you have to go to these lengths...but it's been successful 100% of the time for me. The only caveat is that in each situation I could demonstratively show where I was right and each instance where the company "dropped the ball". Using this to "strong arm" a company when you aren't really in the right is unethical and could backfire.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  44. #644
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    Are the cracked frame, and loose pivot problems only on carbon Ransoms? Anyone have issues with the aluminum frames?

  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bondseye View Post
    Are the cracked frame, and loose pivot problems only on carbon Ransoms? Anyone have issues with the aluminum frames?
    They're having issues with both carbon and aluminum. It's a design flaw. Scott tried to save money once again. They had the ransoms built in a different factory than their other bikes(spark rc/spark/genius). It obviously was not a good move.

    Scott is once again looking for another base factory in another country(one with lesser or non existent tarriffs) so they're really behind on the 2020 inventory.

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  46. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich5285 View Post
    They're having issues with both carbon and aluminum. It's a design flaw. Scott tried to save money once again. They had the ransoms built in a different factory than their other bikes(spark rc/spark/genius). It obviously was not a good move.

    Scott is once again looking for another base factory in another country(one with lesser or non existent tarriffs) so they're really behind on the 2020 inventory.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Thatís interesting to hear. I was one of the people with a cracked Ransom frame right above the cranks after four rides. Long story short Scott denied the warranty because there was a small scratch near the crack. It was a long ordeal but after six months I was thankfully able to get a full refund from the bike shop. But I will in no shape or form ever buy a Scott again.


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  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew8404 View Post
    Thatís interesting to hear. I was one of the people with a cracked Ransom frame right above the cranks after four rides. Long story short Scott denied the warranty because there was a small scratch near the crack. It was a long ordeal but after six months I was thankfully able to get a full refund from the bike shop. But I will in no shape or form ever buy a Scott again.


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    I'm truly sorry to hear that, that's a real bummer. I have five bikes(3 road, 2 Mountian). Two of those five are Scotts. One is a foil disc and one is a rc 900 pro.

    I was considering a regular spark or genius for my next bike. I really want a 130/120 bike tho and the spark is 120/120 and genius is 150/150 so neither are exactly what I want in terms of travel. So, I've been now looking at the SC tall boy and Ibis ripley.

    There was an issue with my headset on my Foil. Some were sent out with missing spacers. It really wasn't a big deal it just created some minor scuffs on my top tube under the stem from turning the bars. I just originally had wanted it notated because God forbid something happened I just wanted documentation. My LBS(who are phenomenal) contacted Scott to let them know of the issue and without any hesitation(they already knew of the missing spacer issue with some foils) sent out a brand new headset with the proper spacers, new bearings and everything. They were the ones from the top of the line foil and better than what came out of mine. So I was really happy with that.

    So I guess it just depends on who you get on the phone at Scott and how hard your LBS pushes(or their relationship with Scott)

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  48. #648
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    hey guys,

    I just received my new Ransom 910 2019 about 10 days ago and only after found this forum/thread about the bike.
    after checking my trunion mount I noticed that on one side(non drive side) there is a gap between the frame and that plastic flange in the shock, on the other side everything flush.
    sent the pics to the seller , they contacted Scott and looks like scott said is ok ...
    " I spoke to Scott about the case.
    This slight play in screw direction what you have on the rear shock is normal and wanted for the kinematics of the frame. Therefore there are no shims missing."
    now I am a bit confused, love the bike but will live now with this anxiety along the one related to the craked frames I saw here ))
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Scott Ransom-img_20200220_214153_2.jpg  

    2019 Scott Ransom-img_20200220_214400_2.jpg  


  49. #649
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    It looking like your frame is buggered. This is the same as mine was. Got told different stories from my bike shop and Scott. When the bike did go back to the bike shop, and got fully checked over and the frame alignment, kinematics sent to Scott, to be then told it was the shock, then rang back and im getting a replacement bike, to then getting told it was the front triangle. Anyway the story went on and on. I finally got most of my money back, which I think I did mention in a post last year. I bought a Orbea Rallon, Which was my first slash second choice. Reading these post and the bit of money I lost on the Ransom im now glad its gone. I loved my 2013 genius I had, but I will never buy a Scott bike again. Did it for me all the messing around and blaming the bike shop, which where sh--t, and the shop blaming Scott. IM DONE WITH SCOTT.

    Plus It took 6 months of messing to get my money back. Credit card company did all the work for me. Plus my wife paid for the Orbea for me, while the bike shop and Scott cocked around blaming each other.
    #PEACEOUT

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paologilberto View Post
    hey guys,

    I just received my new Ransom 910 2019 about 10 days ago and only after found this forum/thread about the bike.
    after checking my trunion mount I noticed that on one side(non drive side) there is a gap between the frame and that plastic flange in the shock, on the other side everything flush.
    sent the pics to the seller , they contacted Scott and looks like scott said is ok ...
    " I spoke to Scott about the case.
    This slight play in screw direction what you have on the rear shock is normal and wanted for the kinematics of the frame. Therefore there are no shims missing."
    now I am a bit confused, love the bike but will live now with this anxiety along the one related to the craked frames I saw here ))
    The frame is designed to allow the shock to move laterally 1mm-1.5mm. This is to allow the shock to rotate at the trunnion mount as the rear suspension cycles. You should be able to move the shock back towards the side the spaced out by hand. This is normal for the Ransom. If you have more than 1-1.5mm of space then something is wrong.

    What will develop over time and is not normal is vertical play. This is due to the material in the plastic bushings being soft and wearing out pretty fast. At that point Scott will recommend new hardware mount kit for your shock. Or you can do the rim tape method mentioned on previous posts. Itís kind of annoying but Iím willing to deal with it for as well as this bike performs.

  51. #651
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    thanks for the feedback!
    so the vertical play in the future is of concern not the lateral gap I have now...

    which plastic bushings are you referring to? at the trunion mount or the other side?
    maybe a general pic would help!? the white ones are you referring to?

    can you pls help with the link to these bushings and also to the rim tape solution also?

    if I am not asking too much
    otherwise the bike feels great.
    I am just hesitating to buy the invisiframe for 89 euros and also pay 29 euros for shipping.
    any opinion here? ))

    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    The frame is designed to allow the shock to move laterally 1mm-1.5mm. This is to allow the shock to rotate at the trunnion mount as the rear suspension cycles. You should be able to move the shock back towards the side the spaced out by hand. This is normal for the Ransom. If you have more than 1-1.5mm of space then something is wrong.

    What will develop over time and is not normal is vertical play. This is due to the material in the plastic bushings being soft and wearing out pretty fast. At that point Scott will recommend new hardware mount kit for your shock. Or you can do the rim tape method mentioned on previous posts. Itís kind of annoying but Iím willing to deal with it for as well as this bike performs.

  52. #652
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paologilberto View Post
    thanks for the feedback!
    so the vertical play in the future is of concern not the lateral gap I have now...

    which plastic bushings are you referring to? at the trunion mount or the other side?
    maybe a general pic would help!? the white ones are you referring to?

    can you pls help with the link to these bushings and also to the rim tape solution also?

    if I am not asking too much
    otherwise the bike feels great.
    I am just hesitating to buy the invisiframe for 89 euros and also pay 29 euros for shipping.
    any opinion here? ))
    Correct, they designed it to be able to move laterally to allow the shock to rotate freely. The bushings that wear out the fastest are the ones at the trunnion mount. I ended up replacing the bushings at the upper shock mount with a needle bearing kit. I got my replacement bushings directly from Scott. For the rim tape solution just go back in this thread a page or 2.

    I installed invisiframe on my Ransom and it is well worth the investment.

  53. #653
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    aah, ok , so the trunion mount bushings are shitty and they have to be ordered through the dealer or I contact Scott directly and they send them to me?

    regarding the Invisiframe, I think I will order also , was is a big pain to install it?

    Paul

    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    Correct, they designed it to be able to move laterally to allow the shock to rotate freely. The bushings that wear out the fastest are the ones at the trunnion mount. I ended up replacing the bushings at the upper shock mount with a needle bearing kit. I got my replacement bushings directly from Scott. For the rim tape solution just go back in this thread a page or 2.

    I installed invisiframe on my Ransom and it is well worth the investment.

  54. #654
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    I've been meaning to work with my LBS to find an alternate source for the trunion bushings. Currently you can only buy them from Scott (dealer) as part of a shock mounting bushing kit which of course costs more and includes parts you may not need. The bushings themselves should literally cost $1 but not sure what Scott charges for the kit. It would be great to find a bulk source of these, they look exactly like the standard Fox IGUS bushings used on the other end of the shock but smaller diameter.

    I've had excellent luck shimming my bushings with rim tape as discussed earlier in this thread, I am still on the original bushings with no further play after a half season. I do have a backup set of bushings from the kit above but haven't had to use them yet. Duffman has not had as good a luck, seems like he has had to shim/replace a few times over the same time period. For the record I am here in washington state, so lots of mud.

    I'm also using the RWS needle bearing up top and found it an excellent upgrade, definitely smoother and something that you can actually feel on the bike (if you have an extra $40 laying around).

  55. #655
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggazu View Post
    It looking like your frame is buggered. This is the same as mine was. Got told different stories from my bike shop and Scott. When the bike did go back to the bike shop, and got fully checked over and the frame alignment, kinematics sent to Scott, to be then told it was the shock, then rang back and im getting a replacement bike, to then getting told it was the front triangle. Anyway the story went on and on. I finally got most of my money back, which I think I did mention in a post last year. I bought a Orbea Rallon, Which was my first slash second choice. Reading these post and the bit of money I lost on the Ransom im now glad its gone. I loved my 2013 genius I had, but I will never buy a Scott bike again. Did it for me all the messing around and blaming the bike shop, which where sh--t, and the shop blaming Scott. IM DONE WITH SCOTT.

    Plus It took 6 months of messing to get my money back. Credit card company did all the work for me. Plus my wife paid for the Orbea for me, while the bike shop and Scott cocked around blaming each other.
    #PEACEOUT
    Sounds like we have similar stories ha ha. I went with a Yeti SB150. Super happy with it so far.


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  56. #656
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    Sold my medium 2019 910 at the end of last season and bought... a large 2019 910. Did things a little differently this time around though.

    Full spec's on Vital:
    https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/u...91/setup,40920


  57. #657
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    Let us know how you like that EXT compared to the Nude and if you ever miss twin lok.
    Bike looks good although its hard to make the 910 "pop". Not that I care mine is always dirty anyway.

  58. #658
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    When i switched from the medium to the large, I took the twinloc off. I just didn't like the actuation of the dropper lever on the twinloc remote. I have a smaller trail bike, so the ability to go into 120 mode doesn't really appeal to me. It climbed really well with the nude sans-twinloc and it climbs even better with the EXT. Still need some time to get the EXT dialed for descending, but first impression is that it rips. I've had a few coils on various bikes and this is definitely in its own league.

  59. #659
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    Has anyone seen a shock rate graph for the Ransom?
    Keep the Country country.

  60. #660
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    I have not. But Brendog is running a Fox DHX2 on his and Iíve never really felt mine bottom out hard even though I use all of the travel frequently so there must be some progression in the curve.

  61. #661
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    Here is the leverage ratio I measured from the bike. It seems awfully linear compared to others I've seen perhaps they use a different method. I simply supported the BB and raised the rear wheel 1/2" at a time and then measured the eye-to-eye.

    Anyway here is the leverage curve as I measured it (missing the last 5mm of travel)
    (all measurements in inches and I dont know why the forum removed all my spaces)
    Wheel travel shock travel Leverage ratio
    0 0
    0.5 .156 3.2
    1 .156 3.2
    1.5 .156 3.2
    2 .188 2.7
    2.5 .188 2.7
    3 .188 2.7
    3.5 .188 2.7
    4. .188 2.7
    4.5 .188 2.7
    5 .188 2.7
    5.5 .25 2
    6 .219 2.23
    6.5 .188 2.7

  62. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    Here is the leverage ratio I measured from the bike. It seems awfully linear compared to others I've seen perhaps they use a different method. I simply supported the BB and raised the rear wheel 1/2" at a time and then measured the eye-to-eye.

    Anyway here is the leverage curve as I measured it (missing the last 5mm of travel)
    (all measurements in inches and I dont know why the forum removed all my spaces)
    Wheel travel shock travel Leverage ratio
    0 0
    0.5 .156 3.2
    1 .156 3.2
    1.5 .156 3.2
    2 .188 2.7
    2.5 .188 2.7
    3 .188 2.7
    3.5 .188 2.7
    4. .188 2.7
    4.5 .188 2.7
    5 .188 2.7
    5.5 .25 2
    6 .219 2.23
    6.5 .188 2.7
    That is how its done Preston. Those numbers actually look pretty good. At 7" the ratio should be 2.62. I'll graph it and try to post it here in a few minutes. But just by taking the beginning ratio and comparing it to the ratio at bottom out the it looks like it rises at about 18.5% from beginning to end which is a pretty good number. For comparison the yeti sb150 has a 15% rising rate. If you have too much progression the bike rides harsh as you get towards the bottom of the travel as many YT Capra owners have discovered and switched to coil shocks to use all of their travel. This also explains why I don't like how the Ransom feels in the progressive shock setting on rough and chunky terrain... I much prefer to run the rear shock in linear mode for nearly everything.

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    Here is the leverage ratio I measured from the bike. It seems awfully linear compared to others I've seen perhaps they use a different method. I simply supported the BB and raised the rear wheel 1/2" at a time and then measured the eye-to-eye.

    Anyway here is the leverage curve as I measured it (missing the last 5mm of travel)
    (all measurements in inches and I dont know why the forum removed all my spaces)
    Wheel travel shock travel Leverage ratio
    0 0
    0.5 .156 3.2
    1 .156 3.2
    1.5 .156 3.2
    2 .188 2.7
    2.5 .188 2.7
    3 .188 2.7
    3.5 .188 2.7
    4. .188 2.7
    4.5 .188 2.7
    5 .188 2.7
    5.5 .25 2
    6 .219 2.23
    6.5 .188 2.7
    That is how its done Preston. Those numbers actually look pretty good. At 7" the ratio should be 2.62. I'll graph it and try to post it here in a few minutes. But just by taking the beginning ratio and comparing it to the ratio at bottom out the it looks like it rises at about 18.5% from beginning to end which is a pretty good number. For comparison the yeti sb150 has a 15% rising rate. If you have too much progression the bike rides harsh as you get towards the bottom of the travel as many YT Capra owners have discovered and switched to coil shocks to use all of their travel. This also explains why I don't like how the Ransom feels in the progressive shock setting on rough and chunky terrain... I much prefer to run the rear shock in linear mode for nearly everything.

  64. #664
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    Scott RANSOM FOUR BAR LINKAGE Suspension REVIEW

    Not sure if I've seen this posted here yet, so I figured I'd share.


  65. #665
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    maybe this will help :P
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-AbuCDKk9g

    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Has anyone seen a shock rate graph for the Ransom?

  66. #666
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    I messaged the guy that made the video. His leverage ratios were slightly different than Preston's but pretty close. He got an overall progressive rate of about 24% for the Ransom. I was surprised it is that progressive but explains why I've never felt a really harsh bottom out on this frame.

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    If you have too much progression the bike rides harsh as you get towards the bottom of the travel as many YT Capra owners have discovered and switched to coil shocks to use all of their travel.
    That's me. Now, with a DHX2 my Capra 29 has the best feeling suspension I've ever ridden. However, switching all my parts to the Ransom frame should drop 2lbs and have firmer/steeper geo climbing. I held off last year but after hearing nothing but praise for the Ransom's suspension a frame is on the way.
    Keep the Country country.

  68. #668
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    I've been running an EXT Storia Lok V3 coil on my 2020 Ransom 910 and it's by far the best performing suspension I have ever ridden. I'll post some pictures soon
    Denver, CO

  69. #669
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    A couple weeks ago I asked for some advice on here for the Scott Ransom and right now Iím a happy owner of a Ransom 910. Love the bike so far. I was surprised that the XL was still kinda small compare to other previous bikes I owned. I think Iím going to upgrade to carbon wheels. I couldnít find much info about the Revelstoke wheels, how good or bad are they and do they have any flex on challenging terrain? How are the spokes holding up for people? I tend to break those fast.
    Iím 210 pounds and think I need to upgrade to a better wheelset if I want to really enjoy my rides in Moab for example?
    What are other suggested upgrades from the stock 2019 Ransom 910?
    Thanks for any advice or suggestions.

  70. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    A couple weeks ago I asked for some advice on here for the Scott Ransom and right now Iím a happy owner of a Ransom 910. Love the bike so far. I was surprised that the XL was still kinda small compare to other previous bikes I owned. I think Iím going to upgrade to carbon wheels. I couldnít find much info about the Revelstoke wheels, how good or bad are they and do they have any flex on challenging terrain? How are the spokes holding up for people? I tend to break those fast.
    Iím 210 pounds and think I need to upgrade to a better wheelset if I want to really enjoy my rides in Moab for example?
    What are other suggested upgrades from the stock 2019 Ransom 910?
    Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
    I smoked those wheels really fast. I was running the 2.6 tires and was having issues finding right tire pressure and a day at Highland Mtn in wet conditions where sometimes you just had to smash through rocks just about killed them. I build some DT 350 with EX 511 rims to run now. Also threw in some nukeproof inserts.

  71. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    I was surprised that the XL was still kinda small compared to other previous bikes I owned.
    What are other suggested upgrades from the stock 2019 Ransom 910?
    What bikes have you owned with a reach over 505mm?
    Remover the front Twinlock cable and replace the fork damper with Grip2.
    Keep the Country country.

  72. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfoga View Post
    I smoked those wheels really fast. I was running the 2.6 tires and was having issues finding right tire pressure and a day at Highland Mtn in wet conditions where sometimes you just had to smash through rocks just about killed them. I build some DT 350 with EX 511 rims to run now. Also threw in some nukeproof inserts.
    Wheelset on the 900 tuned wasnít much better. Pretty disappointing for a $7k+ bike. Rims are soft and the rebranded formula hub is garbage. Bearings blew up on me after about 1200 miles. Just put a set of Santa Cruz Reserves on. Problem solved.

  73. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    What bikes have you owned with a reach over 505mm?
    Remover the front Twinlock cable and replace the fork damper with Grip2.
    The reach of my ransom is actually longer than my Stumpjumper now Iím looking at the numbers. I bought the bike from someone thatís 6.6ft and I had to put the saddle more back cause it was too short for me. First impression was that it was smaller but I guess not.

  74. #674
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    Thatís a bummer that the wheels are low quality, especially for this price. Isnít the hub like a rebranded DT Swiss 350 or something? Thereís not much info out there about this wheelset and the hub. Does anyone know what the engagement is? Looks like Iíll be upgrading soon to a carbon wheelset.

  75. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    Thatís a bummer that the wheels are low quality, especially for this price. Isnít the hub like a rebranded DT Swiss 350 or something? Thereís not much info out there about this wheelset and the hub. Does anyone know what the engagement is? Looks like Iíll be upgrading soon to a carbon wheelset.
    It does not appear that way at least with the wheels on the 910. They appear to be Formula hubs and probably Alex rims. I don't know that they are low quality , but more that they are light weight and not able to handle the level of abuse some of us have put them through. I am not going to blame my destruction on the wheels as much on the fact that I had pressures a little too low and was riding through some rocky terrain adding in additional abuse.

  76. #676
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    Tuned has rebranded formula hubs. Wheels are ok, but just kind of soft and donít hold up to what the bike was designed for. Rear hub is complete garbage. Engagement is good but it just doesnít last. And for what it costs to rebuild you are better off building a new wheel with a good quality hub which is what I ended up doing.

  77. #677
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    Can anyone suggest a great carbon wheel for the Ransom? I prefer a wider rim with stronger spokes. Iím known for unintentionally abusing my bikes so like to buy something low maintenance that last a while.

  78. #678
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    Been rocking the We Are One Agent's for the last season - spot on true after a full season. Lifetime Warranty and made here in North America. Have them laced to I9 Hydra hubs

  79. #679
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    Just switched to SC reserves on my Ransom with I9 hubs. Very impressed. Much stiffer laterally without riding harsh. Whatever carbon wheel you get pick one with a lifetime warranty for when they break.

  80. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    Just switched to SC reserves on my Ransom with I9 hubs. Very impressed. Much stiffer laterally without riding harsh. Whatever carbon wheel you get pick one with a lifetime warranty for when they break.
    Iím leaning towards the reserves with 37 Internal Width. I can only find them online with the DT Swiss hub, would the I9 hub make a big difference?

  81. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txholland View Post
    Iím leaning towards the reserves with 37 Internal Width. I can only find them online with the DT Swiss hub, would the I9 hub make a big difference?
    Did find some but theyíre a couple hundred dollars more expensive with the I9 hub. Is the I9 a game changer compare to the DT Swiss hub?

  82. #682
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    What size tires you running? Iíd stick with the 30mm internal width if you are running 2.4-2.6 tires. DT Swiss are really good hubs. Not as flashy but they work and are super easy to service. If you want better engagement you will need to upgrade the star ratchet which is about $100.

  83. #683
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    What size tires you running? Iíd stick with the 30mm internal width if you are running 2.4-2.6 tires. DT Swiss are really good hubs. Not as flashy but they work and are super easy to service. If you want better engagement you will need to upgrade the star ratchet which is about $100.
    I run 2.6 tires. Wondering why the 30mm are better than the 37mm for this kind of tire size? Iím 210lbs, not sure if that would make a big difference here.

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    You could probably go either way with the 2.6. Smaller than 2.6 Iíd stick with 30mm for sure. I just didnít like the way the 2.6 tires felt. Kind of vague feeling on the trail. Donít dig in like a 2.5 or 2.4. Also ripped the exo+ casings pretty fast. Went back to 2.5 and 2.4.

  85. #685
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    You could probably go either way with the 2.6. Smaller than 2.6 Iíd stick with 30mm for sure. I just didnít like the way the 2.6 tires felt. Kind of vague feeling on the trail. Donít dig in like a 2.5 or 2.4. Also ripped the exo+ casings pretty fast. Went back to 2.5 and 2.4.
    Does anyone has a 37 inner width rim on their Scott Ransom? Like the Santa Cruz reserve 37 for example?
    I wonder if thereís plenty of tire clearance in the rear with a wider rim like this. I will be using a DHF 2.5 or 2.6 tire. The tires on these wider rims look really big in photos and videos that Iíve seen.

  86. #686
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    Everyone who rides enduro bikes has agreed that 30mm rims and 2.4 or 2.5" tires work best. The only place I still see wider rims and tires is on mid-travel 27.5" bikes being ridden slowly on wet roots.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Everyone who rides enduro bikes has agreed that 30mm rims and 2.4 or 2.5" tires work best. The only place I still see wider rims and tires is on mid-travel 27.5" bikes being ridden slowly on wet roots.
    I havenít made a decision yet whether Iíd like to have a 30mm rim or 37. Iíd like to hear from people what their experience is with a wider rim on their Ransom.

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