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  1. #1001
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    New question here.

    Question to all the TB4 owners: how easy is it to have the seller swap out forks?

    I love pretty much everything about the TB4 X01 build but the Rock Shox fork. I'm a Fox guy. Haven't ridden a Rock Shox since '97. Probably nothing wrong with the Pike, but I'd rather send both shocks off to be serviced to the same place, at the same time, and I'm loyal to Fox.

    The shops I've spoken to won't even engage or try to have this conversation. It's take it or leave it. Which is a little surprising considering the TB4's price.

    Any input is appreciated.

  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by bingemtbr View Post
    Question to all the TB4 owners: how easy is it to have the seller swap out forks?

    I love pretty much everything about the TB4 X01 build but the Rock Shox fork. I'm a Fox guy. Haven't ridden a Rock Shox since '97. Probably nothing wrong with the Pike, but I'd rather send both shocks off to be serviced to the same place, at the same time, and I'm loyal to Fox.

    The shops I've spoken to won't even engage or try to have this conversation. It's take it or leave it. Which is a little surprising considering the TB4's price.

    Any input is appreciated.
    I was looking at Ripley and first thing I wanted to do was have the shop put on a Pike. They said no problem and no extra charge, but I think Ibis sells its build packages to dealers piece by piece so its easier for them to make a swap. Whereas I believe SC sells the build kits complete so your shop would have to
    eat the price of a new Fox 34 and try to recoup it through a 'take off' sale on the Pike. A bit inflexible for them to not even consider it. Are they offering a discount on sticker price?

    If I end up going TB4, I will keep the Pike but want to ditch the Reverb post so we'll see how flexible my shop is on that.

  3. #1003
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    We the people ...

    Yes. The shops I've talked to are both offering discounts. The TB4 will still be the most expensive bike I've ever purchased. So I'm a little taken back by this inflexibilty.

    Regarding the dropper post, I'm not even having it installed. I'll either sell it or install it the next time I'm out in Moab. IMO, there aren't enough situations on my local trails to require the dropper. I've been riding these trails 30 years on a regular seat post. I've never wished for a shorter seat post on any occassion. While there are 3-4 technical sections on the 300+ mi of single track around here, I typically will walk those. I've ridden them dozens of times before and have 126,000 reasons (shoulder surgeries and busted ribs) not to ride them every time "just because".

  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by bingemtbr View Post
    Question to all the TB4 owners: how easy is it to have the seller swap out forks?

    I love pretty much everything about the TB4 X01 build but the Rock Shox fork. I'm a Fox guy. Haven't ridden a Rock Shox since '97. Probably nothing wrong with the Pike, but I'd rather send both shocks off to be serviced to the same place, at the same time, and I'm loyal to Fox.

    The shops I've spoken to won't even engage or try to have this conversation. It's take it or leave it. Which is a little surprising considering the TB4's price.

    Any input is appreciated.

    Why don't you order a frame-only and build it up with all the parts you want yourself?

    That's what I always do. Not a fan of most of the full-build components, especially the SRAM drivetrain and brakes, nor the Rockshox suspension.

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  5. #1005
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    I'm really like SRAM. The only things I'd change on the X01 build are the fork (to Fox), the brakes (to dbl piston XTs) and the dropper post (to Thomson). All are really just personal preference.

    I just cannot understand how SC and the lbs are so unaccomodating on such a high dollar purchase. They spend as much or more time selling a $400 hybrid on a Saturday. When I buy a car, I have no issues getting custom parts or performance packages installed.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by bingemtbr View Post
    I'm really like SRAM. The only things I'd change on the X01 build are the fork (to Fox), the brakes (to dbl piston XTs) and the dropper post (to Thomson). All are really just personal preference.

    I just cannot understand how SC and the lbs are so unaccomodating on such a high dollar purchase. They spend as much or more time selling a $400 hybrid on a Saturday. When I buy a car, I have no issues getting custom parts or performance packages installed.
    Santa Cruz will not sell the LBS a TB with a different fork. The shop will have to order the fork for you, and even at their cost, it is a significant amount of $. Then they will have a Pike that will be harder to sell for MSRP because it is precut for the bike they sold you, and even though never ridden, it is now effectively a used fork...and they are giving you a discount.
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  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    Santa Cruz will not sell the LBS a TB with a different fork. The shop will have to order the fork for you, and even at their cost, it is a significant amount of $. Then they will have a Pike that will be harder to sell for MSRP because it is precut for the bike they sold you, and even though never ridden, it is now effectively a used fork...and they are giving you a discount.
    There's less than a $100 differ between the RockShox and the Fox. And SC has the Fox fork I want spec'ed on other TB4 builds.

    Regardless, I get it. I accept it. Its very disappointing to have this occur on a $6k+ bike.

  8. #1008
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    My local shop Path Bikes in Tustin, CA will do the swap because they have a Take Off room where they sell the parts that were swapped out from the stock bikes. It's a win/win for everyone because bike purchaser gets components they want and people shopping for stand alone parts can get brand new parts at a discount.

  9. #1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by bingemtbr View Post
    I'm really like SRAM. The only things I'd change on the X01 build are the fork (to Fox), the brakes (to dbl piston XTs) and the dropper post (to Thomson). All are really just personal preference.

    I just cannot understand how SC and the lbs are so unaccomodating on such a high dollar purchase. They spend as much or more time selling a $400 hybrid on a Saturday. When I buy a car, I have no issues getting custom parts or performance packages installed.
    Most shops will gladly swap parts for you. Sounds like your shop isn't very customer friendly in that regard.

    Santa Cruz Hightower LT
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    Sizing XL----a friend showed today with his L and I did a quick try---there simply is no way with that 619 ETT that I have room at a 30 inch seat height--not even close----same as with the Ripley----STA steepness causing this.
    Will do a factory demo on an XL next week to get a real feel.

    Odd as with the SC HT a L fit and the XL was too big---go figure

    I am 6 foot with a 34.4 inseam----but interested now that folks have the bike if XL seems to make sense----I am not a racer but more of an intermediate rider

  11. #1011
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    Quote Originally Posted by pctloper View Post
    Sizing XL----a friend showed today with his L and I did a quick try---there simply is no way with that 619 ETT that I have room at a 30 inch seat height--not even close----same as with the Ripley----STA steepness causing this.
    Will do a factory demo on an XL next week to get a real feel.

    Odd as with the SC HT a L fit and the XL was too big---go figure

    I am 6 foot with a 34.4 inseam----but interested now that folks have the bike if XL seems to make sense----I am not a racer but more of an intermediate rider
    Iím 6í4Ē with a 37Ē inseam. When I first rode the Ripley I thought ďnope, too shortĒ.

    Now Iím riding a XL Canfield Riot with and even shorter ETT and...itís the best feeling bike Iíve ridden. You get used to the short TT and new pedal position very quickly and it actually works. I was skeptical but am a believer. The only caveat is it can be harder on your knees if you are prone to patellar tendinitis.
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  12. #1012
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    Is anyone running their TB in the longer chainstay setting?

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    I ended up buying the wrong disc brake adapter for the rear. Does anyone know what sram adapter you need for 180mm rear?

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    Quote Originally Posted by beatboxrevival View Post
    I ended up buying the wrong disc brake adapter for the rear. Does anyone know what sram adapter you need for 180mm rear?
    For 180mm fear the caliper just bolts right in. If you are running the back in the long setting then use the adapter included with the bike.

  15. #1015
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    Quote Originally Posted by bingemtbr View Post
    There's less than a $100 differ between the RockShox and the Fox. And SC has the Fox fork I want spec'ed on other TB4 builds.

    Regardless, I get it. I accept it. Its very disappointing to have this occur on a $6k+ bike.
    This is the entire bike industry. Santa Cruz sells complete bikes, and they sell bare frames. When buying a complete bike the dealer (and thus you, the customer) get whatever is in the build kit.

    As others have stated, a bike shop should be willing to swap the fork for you, but the cost can vary wildly.

    Some shops will sell you a new fork at retail, install it, and will not offer any credit for the original fork. Take it and resell yourself. If a LBS isn't willing to do even this, I question whether they have the knowledge and expertise to do anything other than basic maintenance. Any shop should be willing to do at least this, at your expense.

    Some shops will discount the new fork, but no credit for original. Helpful.

    A few shops will discount the new fork and give you credit for the original but you should expect it to be less than whatever price you may see on Pinkbike, ebay, etc for used.

    The $100 retail price difference you mention is not really relevant because you're buying a complete bike. It is not possible to pay $100 more and get the fork you want because SC can't do it, and thus the LBS can't do it without taking a big loss, which they obviously won't do.

    To be honest, I consider the fork to be the most critical component on the bike for performance. If you buy an entry-level bike, replace the fork immediately. If you get mid- or high-end and the complete bike doesn't have the fork you want, you may be much better served by building a custom bike from a frame. But nearly everyone includes a shock with a new frame, so hopefully that's the shock you want...

  16. #1016
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    Quote Originally Posted by beatboxrevival View Post
    I ended up buying the wrong disc brake adapter for the rear. Does anyone know what sram adapter you need for 180mm rear?
    You'll need a rear post mount, 160 to 180mm adapter. Looks like in SRAM speak that would be their 20mm adapter.


    Quote Originally Posted by mikericci View Post
    For 180mm fear the caliper just bolts right in. If you are running the back in the long setting then use the adapter included with the bike.
    This is incorrect. The TB4 rear caliper mount is meant for a 160mm rotor with no adapter. For a 180mm you need an adapter, regardless of rear axle position (of course, need different adapters for the different axle positions).

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    Just received my TB4 CC X01, reserves w/ I9 hydras. Only one ride on it but I am pretty impressed at this point. Will report back after I put some more miles on it.

    Only one complaint....It sounds like the cables are rattling around and it is driving me nuts. My cables are neat and tidy - held together with some clips. Sounds like the cables are rattling around the internal cable routing, primarily where they exit the frame at the head tube. Anybody else having issues with this? Any recommendations to quiet them down?

  18. #1018
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    You'll need a rear post mount, 160 to 180mm adapter. Looks like in SRAM speak that would be their 20mm adapter.




    This is incorrect. The TB4 rear caliper mount is meant for a 160mm rotor with no adapter. For a 180mm you need an adapter, regardless of rear axle position (of course, need different adapters for the different axle positions).
    Thanks for the info. I assumed it was the same as the other bikes. I mounted my caliper but hadnít put in the wheel yet.

  19. #1019
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    Tallboy 4

    Quote Originally Posted by mikericci View Post
    Thanks for the info. I assumed it was the same as the other bikes. I mounted my caliper but hadnít put in the wheel yet.
    No problem. Not sure on HT2, but on my HTLT caliper mount was 180mm standard (no adapter). But on the TB4 that was not the case. Needed adapter. As did the Fox 34 for a 180 rotor. Fox 36 didnít need one.

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  20. #1020
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    Something that's missing in the fork swap discussion is that vendors get volume discounts. it doesnt matter that the forks are always the same price. Sc get them at a discount because the bike is "full sram" (rockshox is sram) and pay these a lot less than you would.

    When they go for a mix of components they do not get the same deal and someone has to eat the cost of it, which may be fox, sram, sc, or .. you. I've noticed SC will often ship the next-year bikes with Fox suspension because they know most people want that right now, if the new bikes sold well. So, maybe we get fox-equipped tallboys and hightowers next year if that trend continues!

    Regarding making the swap yourself if its brand new, you've to do a few scary things (its not that hard, but the first time is always trickier). If its a used fork at the right size/etc already, its very easy to swap.

    So if its new, you'd be looking forward to:

    - cutting the steerer, which is a little bit scary the first time because you want the right height (just make it a little longer than you need..) and you want the cut to be very straight. You use a metal saw for this, by hand. There are tools to keep the saw straight, but some people just do it by hand and file it to be very straight/flat.

    - set the crown race, which is a ring you put on top of the fork's crown. It's set in place by pushing it down very hard, so you generally want a tool that's specifically made for it so that you don't damage it. its not super expensive, but its not free either. you then hammer it in place. Note that this crown race is to be purchased separately, unless you manage to remove it from the other fork and that it fits the new one (i wouldnt recommend this)

    - insert the star ring in the steerer tube. This is the thing you screw the top cap on. There are various ones but the most common model is a star ring you also hammer in. There's tools to do this as well but its not really required in my experience. A rubber mallet is definitely a better idea than a steel hammer there. You also want this to be level/straight!

    If this scares you in any way, definitely pay an LBS to do it

  21. #1021
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    What is the offset for Fox fork on Tallboy 4?

  22. #1022
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    Quote Originally Posted by conformers View Post
    What is the offset for Fox fork on Tallboy 4?
    44mm (vs 42mm for Rockshox)

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Something that's missing in the fork swap discussion is that vendors get volume discounts. it doesnt matter that the forks are always the same price. Sc get them at a discount because the bike is "full sram" (rockshox is sram) and pay these a lot less than you would.

    When they go for a mix of components they do not get the same deal and someone has to eat the cost of it, which may be fox, sram, sc, or .. you. I've noticed SC will often ship the next-year bikes with Fox suspension because they know most people want that right now, if the new bikes sold well. So, maybe we get fox-equipped tallboys and hightowers next year if that trend continues!

    Regarding making the swap yourself if its brand new, you've to do a few scary things (its not that hard, but the first time is always trickier). If its a used fork at the right size/etc already, its very easy to swap.

    So if its new, you'd be looking forward to:

    - cutting the steerer, which is a little bit scary the first time because you want the right height (just make it a little longer than you need..) and you want the cut to be very straight. You use a metal saw for this, by hand. There are tools to keep the saw straight, but some people just do it by hand and file it to be very straight/flat.

    - set the crown race, which is a ring you put on top of the fork's crown. It's set in place by pushing it down very hard, so you generally want a tool that's specifically made for it so that you don't damage it. its not super expensive, but its not free either. you then hammer it in place. Note that this crown race is to be purchased separately, unless you manage to remove it from the other fork and that it fits the new one (i wouldnt recommend this)

    - insert the star ring in the steerer tube. This is the thing you screw the top cap on. There are various ones but the most common model is a star ring you also hammer in. There's tools to do this as well but its not really required in my experience. A rubber mallet is definitely a better idea than a steel hammer there. You also want this to be level/straight!

    If this scares you in any way, definitely pay an LBS to do it
    Best for cutting steerer tube I found is to use metal pipe cutters from hardware store, those work great! A crown race setter can be build using pvc pipe for less than $10 from stuff you can get from home depot!

    But if you are buying a bike from a shop, likely paying some extra to have your fork swapped they should just install for the customer, I don't really have shops building my bikes but do they usually charge you for labor on a custom build assuming you buy the parts from them?

  24. #1024
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Something that's missing in the fork swap discussion is that vendors get volume discounts. it doesnt matter that the forks are always the same price. Sc get them at a discount because the bike is "full sram" (rockshox is sram) and pay these a lot less than you would.

    When they go for a mix of components they do not get the same deal and someone has to eat the cost of it, which may be fox, sram, sc, or .. you. I've noticed SC will often ship the next-year bikes with Fox suspension because they know most people want that right now, if the new bikes sold well. So, maybe we get fox-equipped tallboys and hightowers next year if that trend continues!

    Regarding making the swap yourself if its brand new, you've to do a few scary things (its not that hard, but the first time is always trickier). If its a used fork at the right size/etc already, its very easy to swap.
    I feel like the shop should be able to swap the fork out for one of equal or lesser value or charge you the difference in MSRP if you want a more expensive one. If they can just sell the stock fork for whatever the replacement costs them, which would presumably be less than MSRP and a pretty easy sell for them, then they aren't eating any extra costs. Obviously that's a little extra work on their part, but if you're spending thousands of dollars on a new bike, it doesn't seem unreasonable at all to make that accommodation.

  25. #1025
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    Anyone run their TB In the low and high setting yet? Notice the difference? Which do you prefer?


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    Ok so I'm looking at a Tallboy to start the spring 2020 season.. we almost have snow here so it's a little late for this season.
    This is what I was thinking..........

    Full Xt 12 speed with 4 piston brakes.
    One up bars, stem and seatpost
    We are one rims with i9 Hydras
    Ergon ge1 grips
    Wtb volt race
    A minion front and aggressor rear in a 2.3

    Only debate is the fork

    .... do I go RockShox Pike Ultimate
    or Select+
    Or
    Fox Factory 34 Float??

    I'll be going 140mm on the fork

    Thoughts on the fork? I think they have different offsets by 2mm , but will it make that big of a difference?
    Thanks
    Last edited by mtnmaniac; 1 Week Ago at 12:46 PM. Reason: Grammar

  27. #1027
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    Demoíd a TB today. Iím 6í2Ē, demoíd an XL and it felt right.

    Overall was impressed, all but the pedal strikes. Two other guys at the demo day said the same exact thing. And the test loop wasnít even that technical - youíd get strikes on moderately rocky/footy singletrack climb. Anyone else notice this?

    So that has me worried. Otherwise, I really dig the suspension feel compared to my previous FS, a 2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.8, that felt wallowy as heck, especially on a steep climb if Iíd have to pop out of the saddle for extra push. The Tallboy felt very responsive in this regard, really great.

    I also test rode a Scott Genius and was surprised to learn later on that it was a 150mm travel bike. It really didnít feel like it ó in a good way. Very good suspension feel, very responsive. But I think for my riding (more XC/trail, long miles, more pedally than downhilly) the TB fits the bill. I still need to ride Scott Spark, Ibis Ripley, Trek Top Fuel, SJ ST, etc.

  28. #1028
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    Overall was impressed, all but the pedal strikes. Two other guys at the demo day said the same exact thing. And the test loop wasnít even that technical - youíd get strikes on moderately rocky/footy singletrack climb. Anyone else notice this?
    Did you notice if the rear link was set to the low positon?

    My frame came set to low by default but I put it in high position when building it up. No pedal strike issues that I notice. No worse than my HTLT.

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  29. #1029
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Did you notice if the rear link was set to the low positon?

    My frame came set to low by default but I put it in high position when building it up. No pedal strike issues that I notice. No worse than my HTLT.
    Yeah it was setup low position

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    Love the purple. Reminds me of my old Process 111 that was the same color. One of my favorite bikes.

    But the other one is interesting too. Is the rocksteady yellow more of a green? In some pictures it looks green, and not so much in others. Anyone who has seen one in person have any opinions?

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    Tallboy 4

    Quote Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    Love the purple. Reminds me of my old Process 111 that was the same color. One of my favorite bikes.

    But the other one is interesting too. Is the rocksteady yellow more of a green? In some pictures it looks green, and not so much in others. Anyone who has seen one in person have any opinions?
    I have seen it in real and think I like it. Anyway better than the Stormbringer Purple ;-) which I also saw in real. Rocksteady yellow is a split pea soup greenish yellow I would say.
    I like it also better than the mustard yellow previous Hightower. But of couse color taste is personalTallboy 4-dsc00320.jpg

  32. #1032
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    For anyone buying or demoing the R or the S model, keep in mind, the 34 has an A2C about 5mm less than the Pike. So you could go 140mm up front and only be .25į slacker than the geo charts, but gain about 4-5mm of BB height.

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    Quote Originally Posted by questlove967 View Post
    lol its really not that hard. If i remember correctly its 2.4.
    I'm playing around with shockwiz aswell and am getting 2.6 compression ratio on the shock. But I have had alot of errors and had to pump in about 10 psi to get a complete calibration. Next time i'll try to set the ration to 2.4 just to see if there is any difference.

    I just calibrated my fork, a 130mm 34 performance and got a 2.0 compression ratio. Is this correct?

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    I'm playing around with shockwiz aswell and am getting 2.6 compression ratio on the shock. But I have had alot of errors and had to pump in about 10 psi to get a complete calibration. Next time i'll try to set the ration to 2.4 just to see if there is any difference.

    I just calibrated my fork, a 130mm 34 performance with 1 spacer installed and got a 2.0 compression ratio. Is this correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nismomike View Post
    For anyone buying or demoing the R or the S model, keep in mind, the 34 has an A2C about 5mm less than the Pike. So you could go 140mm up front and only be .25į slacker than the geo charts, but gain about 4-5mm of BB height.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Are you sure? I thought that was only with the Fox36 140mm having a2c of 547 vs Pike 551.
    For the Fox 34 140 I thought it is 550 vs 551 for the Pike (541 for 130mm).
    So for the Fox34 140mm I would guess more like at least .4 slacker hta.
    With a Fox36 I also would expect .25 slacker but is a bit heavier fork (+140gr vs RS Pike and +300gr vs Fox34)
    Still interesting a nice stiff Fox 36 Grip 2 140mm fork using the high setting on the TB with around 65.45 hta and then having around 340mm bb height.

    Anyway I am comparing to a Trek Fuel EX with the Fox36 Grip 2 140mm with a slightly less slack 66.5/66.0 hta and 346/339 bb height. STA will get comparable with the 140mm fork (now 76.0 vs 75.5 for size XL).

    Will test/compare the XL Tallboy to a XL Trek Fuel EX on October 26th, although planning on going XXL for the TB unless tight switchback and manouvrability comes in doubt. Unfortunately I cannot test an XXL TB.

    I am 6foot6 (1m98) with inseam of about 37inch (94cm).
    Would guess I like the bigger reach XXL (515 vs 488) for stability in steep descents but not sure on tight switchbacks which I like to be able to still make ;-) Reach of the Trek XL would be 500 by the way, so a bit more than the XL TB (which probably is good), certainly when used with 140mm fork.
    Really hope testing both in XL can help me in deciding ;-)

    Reading/seeiing the reviews the TB should mainly have a more supportive rear suspension not going too deep in the travel and bit more stable going down where the Trek should be more comfortable with a bit more use of travel and more forgiving plus a bit more manouvrable. This is of course using same size, could change even more with xxl vs xl, since the Trek Fuel EX is not available in XXL for carbon (the Trek Topfuel is by the way).

  36. #1036
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerard29er View Post
    Are you sure? I thought that was only with the Fox36 140mm having a2c of 547 vs Pike 551.
    For the Fox 34 140 I thought it is 550 vs 551 for the Pike (541 for 130mm).
    So for the Fox34 140mm I would guess more like at least .4 slacker hta.
    With a Fox36 I also would expect .25 slacker but is a bit heavier fork (+140gr vs RS Pike and +300gr vs Fox34)
    Still interesting a nice stiff Fox 36 Grip 2 140mm fork using the high setting on the TB with around 65.45 hta and then having around 340mm bb height.

    Anyway I am comparing to a Trek Fuel EX with the Fox36 Grip 2 140mm with a slightly less slack 66.5/66.0 hta and 346/339 bb height. STA will get comparable with the 140mm fork (now 76.0 vs 75.5 for size XL).

    Will test/compare the XL Tallboy to a XL Trek Fuel EX on October 26th, although planning on going XXL for the TB unless tight switchback and manouvrability comes in doubt. Unfortunately I cannot test an XXL TB.

    I am 6foot6 (1m98) with inseam of about 37inch (94cm).
    Would guess I like the bigger reach XXL (515 vs 488) for stability in steep descents but not sure on tight switchbacks which I like to be able to still make ;-) Reach of the Trek XL would be 500 by the way, so a bit more than the XL TB (which probably is good), certainly when used with 140mm fork.
    Really hope testing both in XL can help me in deciding ;-)

    Reading/seeiing the reviews the TB should mainly have a more supportive rear suspension not going too deep in the travel and bit more stable going down where the Trek should be more comfortable with a bit more use of travel and more forgiving plus a bit more manouvrable. This is of course using same size, could change even more with xxl vs xl, since the Trek Fuel EX is not available in XXL for carbon (the Trek Topfuel is by the way).
    Had to double check the installation drawings and actually, you are right about the Rhythm. It is 550 a2c. It's the Factory 34 (and 36 as you mention) that is 547.1. So as you said, a Factory 34-36 with a 140 in the Hi setting would be nearly the same geo as the Pike 130 in the low setting, but raise the BB about 3mm in either setting. I'm really torn between the HT2 and TB4. I am on a HTLT and would be doing a frame swap. I think I'm okay with the extra weight of the 36. I was just trying to figure out geo if I drop it to 140. After hearing about pedal strikes, I am sure 140 would be best for me and my 170 cranks should help as well.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  37. #1037
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    Jason's review is out. As informative as always.
    https://youtu.be/YpJ_jwQjNHc

    Another TB4 review:
    https://youtu.be/Ltfj8C8XhgY

  38. #1038
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    Quote Originally Posted by RxBike View Post
    Just received my TB4 CC X01, reserves w/ I9 hydras. Only one ride on it but I am pretty impressed at this point. Will report back after I put some more miles on it.

    Only one complaint....It sounds like the cables are rattling around and it is driving me nuts. My cables are neat and tidy - held together with some clips. Sounds like the cables are rattling around the internal cable routing, primarily where they exit the frame at the head tube. Anybody else having issues with this? Any recommendations to quiet them down?
    I think I have narrowed it down...sounds like the G2 brake pads are rattling. I can grab the brakes, bounce the bike up and down and they don't rattle. I haven't read about the G2s rattling. Anybody else notice this? Any ideas on how to prevent them from rattling? Yes, the brake pad spreader is installed.

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nismomike View Post
    Had to double check the installation drawings and actually, you are right about the Rhythm. It is 550 a2c. It's the Factory 34 (and 36 as you mention) that is 547.1. So as you said, a Factory 34-36 with a 140 in the Hi setting would be nearly the same geo as the Pike 130 in the low setting, but raise the BB about 3mm in either setting. I'm really torn between the HT2 and TB4. I am on a HTLT and would be doing a frame swap. I think I'm okay with the extra weight of the 36. I was just trying to figure out geo if I drop it to 140. After hearing about pedal strikes, I am sure 140 would be best for me and my 170 cranks should help as well.
    Ah it is just the FOX34 Rhythm which is an exception. Good to know. In my case with XL/XXL and 175 cranks I will also be in the danger zone. But still the bb height in low setting should be exact the same as my current bike (Cannondale Scalpel also with 175mm cranks) so at least not any worse ;-) But remains interesting idea to go to a FOX 140mm fork.

  40. #1040
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    Just chiming in that I'm running a Fox 36 140mm + high setting, and am very happy with the results. Still feels well balanced, and running 175 cranks with no major pedal strike issues.
    Tallboy 4 (coming soon!)
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  41. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsantos View Post
    Just chiming in that I'm running a Fox 36 140mm + high setting, and am very happy with the results. Still feels well balanced, and running 175 cranks with no major pedal strike issues.
    How much more does it slacken head angle? Any wheel flop in climbing?

  42. #1042
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    Quote Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    Love the purple. Reminds me of my old Process 111 that was the same color. One of my favorite bikes.

    But the other one is interesting too. Is the rocksteady yellow more of a green? In some pictures it looks green, and not so much in others. Anyone who has seen one in person have any opinions?
    I've seen both, prefer the purple. Demoing a yellow right now (ABQ, NM) It is pea soup green, kinda barfy. It's growing on me though.

    It's a Carbon S w/Reserve wheels, large. 30.7 pounds with XT pedals and a bottle cage. Looking to buy either a HT2cc frame with a lyrik Ultimate or the TB4cc with a Fox Factory 34, transfer my components over from my Fuel EX.

    Fortunately my LBS has both bikes available to demo on my local trails. Have taken the TB on 2 rides, one flowy trail and and a fairly chunky trail with some high speed descending.

    The HT is next, went in to this thinking that the HT would be the one, but after this last ride--holy crap, the TB4 is amazing. The HT is going to need to be pretty special to change my mind at this point. Got a 5th place (Strava) on a really fast, rocky, scary trail, and a 9th on a varied trail section-climbing and descending.

    It is literally the best handling bike I have ever ridden, and I don't say things like that lightly.

    The bike climbs great, but does not feel like a 130/120 bike on the descents, the geometry is fantastic, much more capable than my EX.

    Picking up the HT demo tomorrow.

    Edit: rode in low setting, no pedal strike issues for me.
    Trek FEX 9.8
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  43. #1043
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unbrockenchain View Post
    How much more does it slacken head angle? Any wheel flop in climbing?
    Since I'm running it in the high setting, the HT angle is almost identical, so no add'l wheel flop.

    Main difference is that BB is about 4mm higher, and I'm running a tad more sag to compensate.
    Tallboy 4 (coming soon!)
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  44. #1044
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    Anyone thinking about running the Cane Creek DB Air IL? It comes in the correct size to fit the Tallboy.

    https://www.canecreek.com/product/dbair-il/

  45. #1045
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Anyone thinking about running the Cane Creek DB Air IL? It comes in the correct size to fit the Tallboy.

    https://www.canecreek.com/product/dbair-il/
    SC says that Cane Creek Shocks wonít fit due to the larger diameter air can. But please please try this out for us. I put a CCDB IL on my Tallboy 3 and it legitimately made the bike an entirely different beast. Having the tuning options is a major advantage.

  46. #1046
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    Rode XL from the factory today on UC Santa Cruz trails---the bike climbed better than I expected given the geo----not as good as my Pivot Mach 429 trail but pretty darn good. Still notice VPP kickback at slow speed on square edged obstacles-mostly roots--thought this would be gone in this VPP generation but still there at slow speed---and had way to many pedal strikes for my liking and on trail where the Pivot only has a few. Bike was nice at speed downhill as expected but felt sluggish on flatter portions. Interestingly the steering was pretty sharp which I did not expect with that slack of a bike----in the end not enough things better for me to buy.

  47. #1047
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    Just wanted to stop in and post an update that my cousin is loving his new TB4 that the Path Bike Shop built for him a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, on the 6th ride the rear shock blew up and he's sending it back to fox for warranty. I don't anticipate that this is a systemic problem for tallboy owners. The path has anecdotal knowledge that the DPS is brick shit house reliable. Bummer for sure, but the Path and Fox will get him sorted.

    That being said... There aren't a lot of aftermarket or take off 190x45 shocks out there.

    Interestingly, I was doing some research on this and noted that the stock DPS is shipping with a linear compression light and essentially a linear rebound light. It also has the lightest lockout available for a DPS. Most aftermarket shocks and just most oem shocks in general in this size, seem to be shipping with medium compression and rebound. I don't think it's a huge game breaker, but I would say that if looking for an aftermarket shock option, I would be very particular about the compression tune. This bike with a medium and or/medium digressive tune may end up being a bit harsh for most peoples liking.

    On the flip side, maybe a little more compression damping would help curb some of the pedal strikes some people are having.

  48. #1048
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    Just wanted to stop in and post an update that my cousin is loving his new TB4 that the Path Bike Shop built for him a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, on the 6th ride the rear shock blew up and he's sending it back to fox for warranty. I don't anticipate that this is a systemic problem for tallboy owners. The path has anecdotal knowledge that the DPS is brick shit house reliable. Bummer for sure, but the Path and Fox will get him sorted.

    That being said... There aren't a lot of aftermarket or take off 190x45 shocks out there.

    Interestingly, I was doing some research on this and noted that the stock DPS is shipping with a linear compression light and essentially a linear rebound light. It also has the lightest lockout available for a DPS. Most aftermarket shocks and just most oem shocks in general in this size, seem to be shipping with medium compression and rebound. I don't think it's a huge game breaker, but I would say that if looking for an aftermarket shock option, I would be very particular about the compression tune. This bike with a medium and or/medium digressive tune may end up being a bit harsh for most peoples liking.

    On the flip side, maybe a little more compression damping would help curb some of the pedal strikes some people are having.
    The shock blew on my son's TB4 after 3 rides.....
    I'm the problem....

  49. #1049
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    On the flip side, maybe a little more compression damping would help curb some of the pedal strikes some people are having.
    I personally don't think much of the DPS. I think the Manitou McLeod is way better, and even the Rockshox Monarch is better, for short-travel, standard can shocks.

    At any rate, the first thing I'd do with a DPS that is using too much travel is install air spacers. Old but still relevant video: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=568

  50. #1050
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
    I personally don't think much of the DPS. I think the Manitou McLeod is way better, and even the Rockshox Monarch is better, for short-travel, standard can shocks.

    At any rate, the first thing I'd do with a DPS that is using too much travel is install air spacers. Old but still relevant video: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=568
    The tuning support from manitou is a definite positive of the macleod if you are a DIY bike wrench, so I'll give you that one. On the other hand, I could not disagree more about the monarch. I don't have much good to say about those in terms of performance, reliability or tuning. I've never had a monarch that would go any where near 100 hours without airating itself.

    While the DPS isn't the most advanced shock in the world... It offers a bunch of tuning options if you have a capable bike shop that can pull from the fox catalog of shim stacks, pistons and general tunes. In addition, it's proven to be a very reliable shock, as it should be since it's on double digit revisions and refinements of the design from the original float and rp2 days.

  51. #1051
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    I wonder if those blowing up DPS's are running them in medium or firm by chance??

    I run mine wipe open, in position '1' which is softest. I swapped the stock 0.4 spacer to a 0.6. Absolutely no issues and bike feels amazing. Never blows through travel, feels supportive, and decently plush for 120mm travel. I run 220 psi.

    Pedals with authority and just surges forward on pedal input too which is nice. Maybe not as hardtail feeling as upper link VPP, but also doesn't hang up on roots like the upper style either.

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  52. #1052
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    The tuning support from manitou is a definite positive of the macleod if you are a DIY bike wrench, so I'll give you that one. On the other hand, I could not disagree more about the monarch. I don't have much good to say about those in terms of performance, reliability or tuning. I've never had a monarch that would go any where near 100 hours without airating itself.

    While the DPS isn't the most advanced shock in the world... It offers a bunch of tuning options if you have a capable bike shop that can pull from the fox catalog of shim stacks, pistons and general tunes. In addition, it's proven to be a very reliable shock, as it should be since it's on double digit revisions and refinements of the design from the original float and rp2 days.
    I've had all of those shocks, and don't consider the Float rp2 / ctd / dps very good unless you want a lot of platform for xc racing and don't care about small bump compliance. But I don't want to highjack the thread. Since every TB4 is going to come with a DPS, I think your cheap option - and certainly the first I'd try - is the air volume spacer kit. Very simple to experiment with.

    If that's not enough then you can either send it to a tuner or replace it. Tuned shocks are nearly always better than a factory shock. That's why I have a Monarch RC3 tuned by Vorsprung on my Bronson.

  53. #1053
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    I wonder if those blowing up DPS's are running them in medium or firm by chance??

    I run mine wipe open, in position '1' which is softest. I swapped the stock 0.4 spacer to a 0.6. Absolutely no issues and bike feels amazing. Never blows through travel, feels supportive, and decently plush for 120mm travel. I run 220 psi.

    Pedals with authority and just surges forward on pedal input too which is nice. Maybe not as hardtail feeling as upper link VPP, but also doesn't hang up on roots like the upper style either.
    Most common issue is either the IFP letting go - which is a really loud bang like a firecracker - or the piston getting stuck down.

    Stuck down can happen to any shock if it's bottomed out really hard. IFP .. I don't know if that's a manufacturing issue, or design flaw, but it's happened to me before with less than 20 hours of use. It was a 2013 CTD kashima trail adjust - sent back to Fox for a warranty repair, and it saw 100+ hours afterwards without issue.

  54. #1054
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    Quote Originally Posted by beatboxrevival View Post
    I ended up buying the wrong disc brake adapter for the rear. Does anyone know what sram adapter you need for 180mm rear?
    Quote Originally Posted by mikericci View Post
    For 180mm fear the caliper just bolts right in. If you are running the back in the long setting then use the adapter included with the bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
    Most common issue is either the IFP letting go - which is a really loud bang like a firecracker - or the piston getting stuck down.

    Stuck down can happen to any shock if it's bottomed out really hard. IFP .. I don't know if that's a manufacturing issue, or design flaw, but it's happened to me before with less than 20 hours of use. It was a 2013 CTD kashima trail adjust - sent back to Fox for a warranty repair, and it saw 100+ hours afterwards without issue.
    Hopefully I never hear that bang!

    I did have a Float X that ended up cavitated and needed to be serviced. Otherwise, I've never had issues with a couple Float CTD's prior to that one, couple of Float DPS, DHX2, DPX2 and now the DPS Factory. Knock on wood.

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  55. #1055
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    The Float, Float RP2, Float RP3, Float CTD, DPS are all generations of the same inline shock design. The DHX Air, Float X, DPX2 are all generations of their alternate twin tube design.

    I digress, the DPS is a well built shock with several generations of refinement. It's not perfect by any means, but there are plenty of these shocks out there that just won't die.

    Regarding my cousins, it puked oil from the adjusters (compression). My guess is just a failed seal that was faulty during assembly.

  56. #1056
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    The DHX Air, Float X, DPX2 are all generations of their alternate twin tube design..
    Minor correction, but I think you mean Float X2. The Float X uses a single tube architecture. I'm not familiar with the DHX Air, but I think that one is single tube as well.

  57. #1057
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    Just wanted to stop in and post an update that my cousin is loving his new TB4 that the Path Bike Shop built for him a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, on the 6th ride the rear shock blew up and he's sending it back to fox for warranty. I don't anticipate that this is a systemic problem for tallboy owners. The path has anecdotal knowledge that the DPS is brick shit house reliable. Bummer for sure, but the Path and Fox will get him sorted.

    That being said... There aren't a lot of aftermarket or take off 190x45 shocks out there.

    Interestingly, I was doing some research on this and noted that the stock DPS is shipping with a linear compression light and essentially a linear rebound light. It also has the lightest lockout available for a DPS. Most aftermarket shocks and just most oem shocks in general in this size, seem to be shipping with medium compression and rebound. I don't think it's a huge game breaker, but I would say that if looking for an aftermarket shock option, I would be very particular about the compression tune. This bike with a medium and or/medium digressive tune may end up being a bit harsh for most peoples liking.

    On the flip side, maybe a little more compression damping would help curb some of the pedal strikes some people are having.
    Interesting info about the light tune. Ibis just announced they are going that direction as well. Curious what weight range your cousin is and the type of riding he is doing? Perhaps the light tune simply can't handle heavier or advanced riders? Although hard to believe that SC wouldn't have thoroughly tested this.

  58. #1058
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    I just blew up a DPS as well. 160 geared up running 185 psi (10 more psi than SC recommends)

    Shock was in open mode with stock volume spacer. Oil was EVERYWHERE!

    This was on our shop demo bike - my TB frame is en route from SC and now I am nervous!

  59. #1059
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    I've seen both, prefer the purple. Demoing a yellow right now (ABQ, NM) It is pea soup green, kinda barfy. It's growing on me though.

    It's a Carbon S w/Reserve wheels, large. 30.7 pounds with XT pedals and a bottle cage. Looking to buy either a HT2cc frame with a lyrik Ultimate or the TB4cc with a Fox Factory 34, transfer my components over from my Fuel EX.

    Fortunately my LBS has both bikes available to demo on my local trails. Have taken the TB on 2 rides, one flowy trail and and a fairly chunky trail with some high speed descending.

    The HT is next, went in to this thinking that the HT would be the one, but after this last ride--holy crap, the TB4 is amazing. The HT is going to need to be pretty special to change my mind at this point. Got a 5th place (Strava) on a really fast, rocky, scary trail, and a 9th on a varied trail section-climbing and descending.

    It is literally the best handling bike I have ever ridden, and I don't say things like that lightly.

    The bike climbs great, but does not feel like a 130/120 bike on the descents, the geometry is fantastic, much more capable than my EX.

    Picking up the HT demo tomorrow.

    Edit: rode in low setting, no pedal strike issues for me.

    Hightower brought it. Same trails, same climbing times (even faster on some of the techy climbs). No contest on the descents. Not that much faster (2 seconds on the 5th place segment, 12 seconds on the other segment, moved from 9th to 7th, and snagged a 10th place on another descent besting the TB by 18 seconds) but so much more confidence/control.

    Moving on over to the HT2 thread. Tb is a great bike though.
    Trek FEX 9.8
    Trek Checkpoint SL 6

  60. #1060
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    TB 4 Review

    Hey guys wanted to give my impressions on the new TB 4. My current bike is an OG Hightower, Iíve ridden the new Hightower as well, you can see my thoughts on it if youíd like.

    The setup was in low position with shorter chainstay, Iím 5í10Ē about 170lbs kitted and ride a large. Sizing was spot on. Overall impression was this is a rad bike! Santa Cruz really knocked it out of the park with this one.

    Climbing the bike felt fine, efficient and as far as vpp goes pretty good. I was honestly hoping it would climb a bit better than it did, not that it was bad but my new benchmark for climbing is a yeti sb130, that thing blew me away with climbing. It felt a little better than the OG HT, no noticeable bob, just your typical vpp feel. I do wish the seat tube angle was a little steeper, especially because in the low position it gets slacked out even more. I didnít notice any more pedal strikes than I usually get, to me thatís a non issue for this bike.

    Descending the bike really shines, and definitely punches above its weight class. The geo is spot on for an aggressive trail bike, you can really get rowdy and it will handle it. There were a couple times I got into some fast chunk and thought I was going to lose it but the bike just pops out the other side and stays on itís line. The rear linkage is so well done, no harsh bottom outs, it ramps up quite progressively so you never really feel like you ran through the travel. To me it felt like a better 5010, just a playful rad trail bike that can get into some tech and feel right at home in flow too.

    I included some picture of the bike and some common clearance areas people seem to always want to see, personally I like the purple color better but the yellow looks pretty good when it gets dusty! Itís pretty close to my HT and I canít justify having both but if I was looking for a do it all for 80-90% the new TB would definitely be on my short list!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tallboy 4-10546ee3-cfab-454c-809d-ecc7fa0a7013.jpg  

    Tallboy 4-a7a752d2-6db3-42b8-802b-bdf6e71a00ed.jpg  

    Tallboy 4-2de0a1e6-7ac1-4b21-80bf-460e7443e5fc.jpg  

    Tallboy 4-aa3a3379-f21c-4ccb-85a7-7375d294bb71.jpg  


  61. #1061
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCFord View Post
    Hey guys wanted to give my impressions on the new TB 4. My current bike is an OG Hightower, Iíve ridden the new Hightower as well, you can see my thoughts on it if youíd like.

    The setup was in low position with shorter chainstay, Iím 5í10Ē about 170lbs kitted and ride a large. Sizing was spot on. Overall impression was this is a rad bike! Santa Cruz really knocked it out of the park with this one.

    Climbing the bike felt fine, efficient and as far as vpp goes pretty good. I was honestly hoping it would climb a bit better than it did, not that it was bad but my new benchmark for climbing is a yeti sb130, that thing blew me away with climbing. It felt a little better than the OG HT, no noticeable bob, just your typical vpp feel. I do wish the seat tube angle was a little steeper, especially because in the low position it gets slacked out even more. I didnít notice any more pedal strikes than I usually get, to me thatís a non issue for this bike.

    Descending the bike really shines, and definitely punches above its weight class. The geo is spot on for an aggressive trail bike, you can really get rowdy and it will handle it. There were a couple times I got into some fast chunk and thought I was going to lose it but the bike just pops out the other side and stays on itís line. The rear linkage is so well done, no harsh bottom outs, it ramps up quite progressively so you never really feel like you ran through the travel. To me it felt like a better 5010, just a playful rad trail bike that can get into some tech and feel right at home in flow too.

    I included some picture of the bike and some common clearance areas people seem to always want to see, personally I like the purple color better but the yellow looks pretty good when it gets dusty! Itís pretty close to my HT and I canít justify having both but if I was looking for a do it all for 80-90% the new TB would definitely be on my short list!
    SCFord Iím deciding between the TB4 or SB130. I know they will both descend well. Can you go into more detail about the climbing and trail manners of both. I was leaning towards the TB4 because of the lighter weight thinking it would climb better.

  62. #1062
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    Why no RS Deluxe on TB4?

    Reading about the FOX DPS failures and wondering why SC didn't go with a Rockshox Deluxe or Super Deluxe, especially on the upper builds that come with the RS Pike?

    I had the FOX DPS on my Stumpjumper and HT1 and thought it was fine but now I have the HT2 with the RS Super Deluxe and it's the best feeling shock I have tried.
    (I have only had 5 full suspension bikes and until now all had FOX shocks.)

    Anyone switch over to a Rockshox Deluxe or Super Deluxe?
    How does the FOX DPS compare to the RS Deluxe?
    2020 SC Hightower v2
    2019 Spec. Stumpjumper
    2018 SC Hightower v1
    2017 Scott Spark 930
    2004 Spec. Stumpjumper

  63. #1063
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    Dustyman, itís been a few months since I rode the sb130 but the major thing that stood out to me was it was the best pedaling bike Iíve ridden. Im pretty much a Santa Cruz guy so thatís my main comparison. With the sb130 it just seemed to propel you a bit further with every pedal stroke and in harder gears. Whereas the tallboy pedals very good I just didnít have that same feeling of just really moving forward. I think the tallboy is a bit more playful on the trail compared to the SB, I feel like the tallboy can really hold its own when it gets rowdy but the SB has an advantage of being able to run any shock you want plus you can over stroke it and bump up to a 160 out front. If youíre looking for a heavy hitting enduro build the SB might be the better choice. Hope that helps, you canít go wrong either way, Iíd recommend trying to demo each, you may just gravitate towards one over the other.

  64. #1064
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    Quote Originally Posted by RxBike View Post
    I think I have narrowed it down...sounds like the G2 brake pads are rattling. I can grab the brakes, bounce the bike up and down and they don't rattle. I haven't read about the G2s rattling. Anybody else notice this? Any ideas on how to prevent them from rattling? Yes, the brake pad spreader is installed.
    See my post towards the bottom of page 5, I took small strips of adhesive backed velcro and attached it to the caliper where my XT pads sit. Pad rattle is gone.
    I'm the problem....

  65. #1065
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCFord View Post
    Dustyman, itís been a few months since I rode the sb130 but the major thing that stood out to me was it was the best pedaling bike Iíve ridden. Im pretty much a Santa Cruz guy so thatís my main comparison. With the sb130 it just seemed to propel you a bit further with every pedal stroke and in harder gears. Whereas the tallboy pedals very good I just didnít have that same feeling of just really moving forward. I think the tallboy is a bit more playful on the trail compared to the SB, I feel like the tallboy can really hold its own when it gets rowdy but the SB has an advantage of being able to run any shock you want plus you can over stroke it and bump up to a 160 out front. If youíre looking for a heavy hitting enduro build the SB might be the better choice. Hope that helps, you canít go wrong either way, Iíd recommend trying to demo each, you may just gravitate towards one over the other.
    There's a Yeti forum where you can do your own research but I tend to own my bikes for quite a few years and put hundreds of hours on per year. Yeti does not have the kind of long-term reliability that I'm looking for. I want nothing to do with a yoke-mounted shock, and they seem to have recurring issues with swingarms and lower links.

    I'm sure there are some Yeti owners who have had multiple flawless bikes. But there are many others who have had issues, waited on warranty replacement, and so on. I'll stick with Santa Cruz.

  66. #1066
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    Has anyone here decided to upsize based on the sizing recommendations?
    I have always gone that route with my past SC bikes and found myself being between sizes again.
    Compering the TB4 Geo with other American brands bikes in the same category, TBs # are pretty standard. Reach, STA, WB # are very close.
    However, if compared to more progressive, forward Geo of some European brands (Nikolai, Pole, Mondraker...) SC is fairly conservative.
    I will need to take out M and L and do some comparison. I am leaning towards L, since I like steep ST, and would run the saddle forward. Use a 40mm stem (instead of 50mm stock) + 140mm fork = shorter reach.
    Also, most likely CS in longer setting, to help balance the bike and keep more weight on the front.
    5'8" and 31" inseam

  67. #1067
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    Tallboy 4

    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Has anyone here decided to upsize based on the sizing recommendations?
    I have always gone that route with my past SC bikes and found myself being between sizes again.
    Compering the TB4 Geo with other American brands bikes in the same category, TBs # are pretty standard. Reach, STA, WB # are very close.
    However, if compared to more progressive, forward Geo of some European brands (Nikolai, Pole, Mondraker...) SC is fairly conservative.
    I will need to take out M and L and do some comparison. I am leaning towards L, since I like steep ST, and would run the saddle forward. Use a 40mm stem (instead of 50mm stock) + 140mm fork = shorter reach.
    5'8" and 31" inseam
    Iím 5í9Ē and on a medium. I ride a medium v3 Bronson as well. I like the fit. The V4 is definitely a longer bike than the V3 Tallboy though. You really need to ride them yourself though if you know how you like a bike to fit.


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  68. #1068
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    Anyone experiemented with offset bushings yet? Anyone with one mind havinf a look to see what clearance there is to fit them?

    Ideally want to slacken it out to 65 degrees and drop the BB 5mm...
    Over forking will slacken but also raise the bb.

  69. #1069
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Anyone experiemented with offset bushings yet? Anyone with one mind havinf a look to see what clearance there is to fit them?

    Ideally want to slacken it out to 65 degrees and drop the BB 5mm...
    Over forking will slacken but also raise the bb.
    Longer fork will also slacken the seat tube angle and change your weight distribution on the bike. Which is way more noticeable to me than the head angle or bottom bracket height changes.

    This is why SC only recommends +10mm from stock on the fork.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  70. #1070
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
    Longer fork will also slacken the seat tube angle and change your weight distribution on the bike. Which is way more noticeable to me than the head angle or bottom bracket height changes.

    This is why SC only recommends +10mm from stock on the fork.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Longer fork brings things I donít want: Longer wheelbase, Higher BB, slacker seat angle.
    Offset bearings will slacken seat angle ever so slightly, but not noticable in comparison to a longer Axle to Crown.

    I know exactly what I want to do, just need to know if possible.
    Cheers :-)

  71. #1071
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    Just ordered my TB4 a few days ago. Should arrive next week.

    Upgrading the rear shock is one of my main priorities, DPS is a good shock, but its not great. Having trouble finding 195x45 DPX2 or Super Delux. Ruh Roh!

    I bought the Carbon R build, bottom end Sram NX and Guide T(rash) brakes. Selling another bike and will upgrade from there. Will probably keep the NX shifting but replace that lump of steel 650 gram NX cassette with an eThirteen (300ish grams). Will definitely help sprung rotational mass!

  72. #1072
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simann View Post
    Just ordered my TB4 a few days ago. Should arrive next week.

    Upgrading the rear shock is one of my main priorities, DPS is a good shock, but its not great. Having trouble finding 195x45 DPX2 or Super Delux. Ruh Roh!

    I bought the Carbon R build, bottom end Sram NX and Guide T(rash) brakes. Selling another bike and will upgrade from there. Will probably keep the NX shifting but replace that lump of steel 650 gram NX cassette with an eThirteen (300ish grams). Will definitely help sprung rotational mass!
    I have similar interest in a TB4 with a RS Super Deluxe as well. Iíve not seen one in that 195x45 size available from any online retailer, although RS says they make one according to their spec page. Iíve not asked my LBS to hunt one down from a rep yet, but would be interested if anyone has been successful in finding one. I know that size exists (sort of) in fox dpx2 I think they are specíd some pivot trail models, but I donít think itís available aftermarket.

  73. #1073
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    Also thinking about the shock upgrade but think 190x50 should fit, has anyone tried one yet?

  74. #1074
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    I see some folks saying they are interested in a 195x45 shock for the Tallboy. The shock size for the Tallboy is a 190x45 as per the SC website.

    I have done some research and Rockshox does make a 190x45 Deluxe Ultimate (00.4118.286.001) but it is tuned for the Salsa Horsetheif and I am not sure what Compression / Rebound tune they use. Another issue is that the Tallboy uses a bearing mount (which makes a difference)

    Does anyone know the Horsethief tune and also if you are able to press in a bearing mount to a standard shock?

  75. #1075
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Anyone experiemented with offset bushings yet? Anyone with one mind havinf a look to see what clearance there is to fit them?

    Ideally want to slacken it out to 65 degrees and drop the BB 5mm...
    Over forking will slacken but also raise the bb.
    Just order some from Burgtec, it would be an inexpensive experiment. I have purchased offset bushings from Burgtec for other bikes in the past, they're easy to deal with and ship quickly.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  76. #1076
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsantos View Post
    Just chiming in that I'm running a Fox 36 140mm + high setting, and am very happy with the results. Still feels well balanced, and running 175 cranks with no major pedal strike issues.
    Jim...how do you adjust the 160mm down to a 140mm and did you change the fork offset from standard 51mm to a 44mm?
    10 TransAM SS
    S-Works M2
    Hightower LTcc - Ď19 XL-SOLD
    TBv4cc in the works

  77. #1077
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    Did the parking lot ride on the TB4 today. Very slack, very stout and nothing like previous Tallboys. 36 fork would be perfect on this bike imo. Rode a HTLT afterwards and it felt very upright and xc compared to the TB4

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  78. #1078
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    Anyone here have a tb4 and a megatower? I am looking to upgrade my short travel bike to something more modern and think the tb4 would be the way to go. The angles etc make it look like it should ride like a snappier, poppier, lighter mega. That would be ideal as my biggest issue is just how differently my current short travel bike is from my race bike.

    There is a demo day coming up in a week that plan to get some actual trail miles in on a tallboy, but any other input would be helpful.


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  79. #1079
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowball View Post
    Jim...how do you adjust the 160mm down to a 140mm and did you change the fork offset from standard 51mm to a 44mm?
    I bought a 160mm travel 44mm offset, and had the airspring swapped to 140mm travel. They're available for the 29er fork in 10mm increments from 170mm to 130mm travel (even though the website only says 170-150). I just called fox tech support and got the part #s for the 140 and 130 airshafts.
    Tallboy 4 (coming soon!)
    Hunter CX
    Bontrager Road Lite
    Eisentraut Track

    outershelladventure.com

  80. #1080
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsantos View Post
    I bought a 160mm travel 44mm offset, and had the airspring swapped to 140mm travel. They're available for the 29er fork in 10mm increments from 170mm to 130mm travel (even though the website only says 170-150). I just called fox tech support and got the part #s for the 140 and 130 airshafts.
    Perfect 👌
    10 TransAM SS
    S-Works M2
    Hightower LTcc - Ď19 XL-SOLD
    TBv4cc in the works

  81. #1081
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    36 130/140 seems ideal for the TB4

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  82. #1082
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsantos View Post
    I bought a 160mm travel 44mm offset, and had the airspring swapped to 140mm travel. They're available for the 29er fork in 10mm increments from 170mm to 130mm travel (even though the website only says 170-150). I just called fox tech support and got the part #s for the 140 and 130 airshafts.
    What is the part number for a 130 shaft for fox 36? I thought they only went down to 140


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  83. #1083
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    Quote Originally Posted by asuprice View Post
    What is the part number for a 130 shaft for fox 36? I thought they only went down to 140


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This is what I ordered:

    Blk Fox 36 Factory 160 - Part # 910-20-696
    140 air shaft - Part #**820-02-538-KIT
    130 air shaft - Part # 820-02-564-KIT
    Tallboy 4 (coming soon!)
    Hunter CX
    Bontrager Road Lite
    Eisentraut Track

    outershelladventure.com

  84. #1084
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    Tallboy 4

    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Sorry. Yeah. I thought the axles were m5. Wrong description.



    I stripped the axle. My buddy stripped his as well using a different torque wrench. My wrench is fine.

    On every other bike/car Iíve worked on the torque specs have never caused an issue. I will take it to a shop and test the spec against theirs though to see if itís way out of whack.

    This is not a new phenomenon with SC torque specs. Plenty of comments in the SC section of this forum about broken & stripped bolts.
    Santa Cruz has revised the torque spec to 13.6 Nm/120 in-lbs for the lower link axles. I just removed my stripped one yesterday and thankfully it came out very easily with an easy out.

    The upper axle (8mm hex) remains at 20 Nm/180 in-lbs


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