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  1. #2401
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    I just checked the weight of someone else bike medium size with CC frame, aluminum wheels, dhf tires.

    The bike is damn heavy at 35lbs. I am shocked

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  2. #2402
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    I just checked the weight of someone else bike medium size with CC frame, aluminum wheels, dhf tires.

    The bike is damn heavy at 35lbs. I am shocked

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    Mine is 35 lbs for a large with coil shock, carbon wheels, cushcore, exo+ tires. This isn’t a light weight bike.


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  3. #2403
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    Does anyone know the frame cc weight itself? Website does not list the weight

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  4. #2404
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    Santa Cruz Megatower

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    The other bike I'm looking at (a GG Smash) allows me to take off ANY part and swap it out just for the cost of the part. So that I can build the bike I want. So I'm assuming you guys are saying Santa Cruz (or most other bike makers) DON'T allow you to do this? If so, that is a HUGE missed opportunity and horrible customer service! If a buyer wants something, the maker should make it how they want it.

    And I'm not sure where you're getting 2+ for the parts? If you go off of retail costs, the Yari is around 699, the Fox38 Factory is 1199. 500 difference. The RS shock is around 399-499, the Cane Creek is around 599-699. Between 200-300 difference. And better wheelset/hubs is around 200-300 more. Ao a total difference of ~900-1100. Not that it even matters now, with this crappy news (not your fault obviously).

    So, can you explain how this works, since I don't know please? You're making it sound like the bike is shipped from SC as a bunch of parts, and the LBS has to put it all together? Which then doesn't makes sense that SC won't let me the buyer swap out parts. If it comes in parts, then why won't they let you build the bike how you want, and just pay the difference? If it ONLY comes with specific parts for that build, then they don't need to do anything or put it together? Right? Sorry, I'm new to all of this, and a lot of this seems insane to me. So if I'm missing something here, sorry. That's why I'm asking:
    There isn’t really a comparison here. I am pretty sure Santa Cruz sells more bikes in a month than GG does all year. It just wouldn’t be feasible to offer customized builds. GG is also direct to consumer, that is why they offer customization. If Santa Cruz did this through dealers, the prices of their bikes would skyrocket and shipping times would be insane.

    You are looking at msrp pricing. Santa cruz gets oem pricing from the component makers so that yari only cost them a fraction of the price you listed. Further once taken off that fork is not worth msrp given it is a take off. Your lbs is not going to want to be stuck with that fork or any of the other take off parts.

    The bikes come partly assembled. Some stuff needs to be set up at the shop, and this is why some shops may not charge labor for swapping parts during assembly.

    Santa Crus couldn’t just send over specific builds for every customer. That just isn’t feasible for a big company to do. You can’t go to the phone store and say you want a new iphone but with a different home button color. Nor can you go to the car dealership and say you want a car but without the seats because you are going to put in new ones.

    GG is the exception because they are a small company with more control over their supply chain. As with most things in life, if you want something very specific to you, you need to go full custom. Santa cruz is NOT a boutique brand.


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  5. #2405
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    There's a good chance when they release the new colors it will come with the Fox 38 stock.

  6. #2406
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    There's a good chance when they release the new colors it will come with the Fox 38 stock.
    There's a problem with that though. I HAVE to get the charcoal bike with black letters. Or the green one. Those are LITERALLY the two sickest bikes I've ever seen and have a WHOLE design idea planned around them already! So I don't want another color.

    So if they change the colors to something else, before I can order the charcoal one, that will not be good. But on the other hand, it would be great to get a Fox38.

    In your guys best guess opinions, when do you think the new colors will come out?

    And second, do you think they will still have either one of the colors they have now? Or will both be new more than likely?

    Thanks

  7. #2407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Does anyone know the frame cc weight itself? Website does not list the weight

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    2,90 kg without the shock on a large frame

  8. #2408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Does anyone know the frame cc weight itself? Website does not list the weight
    Large CC frame weights 3.5 kg from the box (including RS SD Air shock, axle and seat collar). 3.0 kg without the shock.

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    Honestly, a Lyrik preforms better than a 36 Grip 2 in any scenario. It doesn't make sense to put a Fox fork on it.

  10. #2410
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    They won't do it from the factory but the bike shop might do it. Also I know a few companies that do this like Pole and Commencal. But They're mostly direct to consumer, what I did is just organised it with the bike shop, didn't cost that much extra, they just toss the 36 on another in shop bike or a demo. Just try find the right local shop.

  11. #2411
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    Hey SuperWookie... here's how you can save a bit of money: Hold off on the Fox 38 for now. Steve at Vorpsrung put up a video on youtube talking about how there are still a few bugs Fox needs to work out:

    -The damping isn't heavy enough. So someone your weight (and mine) won't get full use of the damper without someone pulling it apart and tuning it out of the box.
    -The only real way for Fox to address the stiffness issue is by introducing a new lower headtube standard - make it bigger because that's the weak point.
    -And of course not having a 20mm axle.

    You could just get the Yari or whatever comes with the build you're looking at and get the damper upgraded by Push and see about changing to a coil spring...cheaper than upgrading to a Fox 38 I think.
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  12. #2412
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    Quote Originally Posted by accordnick View Post
    Large CC frame weights 3.5 kg from the box (including RS SD Air shock, axle and seat collar). 3.0 kg without the shock.
    OK thanks

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  13. #2413
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    Grip 2 is too heavy for light riders. I found lyrik and pike to be more supple and lighter than fox fork

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  14. #2414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Hey SuperWookie... here's how you can save a bit of money: Hold off on the Fox 38 for now. Steve at Vorpsrung put up a video on youtube talking about how there are still a few bugs Fox needs to work out:

    -The damping isn't heavy enough. So someone your weight (and mine) won't get full use of the damper without someone pulling it apart and tuning it out of the box.
    -The only real way for Fox to address the stiffness issue is by introducing a new lower headtube standard - make it bigger because that's the weak point.
    -And of course not having a 20mm axle.

    You could just get the Yari or whatever comes with the build you're looking at and get the damper upgraded by Push and see about changing to a coil spring...cheaper than upgrading to a Fox 38 I think.
    Hmmm, interesting. Maybe I will just wait then. Get the R or S build with the Yari or Fox36 float, and ride that for a while until Fox fixes the issues with the 38. I also am interested to see about the new RS Fork, the Totem. That might be worth waiting on as well. Thanks for the advice Chris!

    And does ANYONE have any idea on when the new colors MIGHT be coming out? Or what those colors might be? Or stay the same?
    Thanks

  15. #2415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    I just checked the weight of someone else bike medium size with CC frame, aluminum wheels, dhf tires.

    The bike is damn heavy at 35lbs. I am shocked
    My XXL/X01/Code/SuperDeluxe/Lyrik/i9 Grade 300/Michelin Wild Enduro build weighs a fart under 34lb. I’m surprised it’s that light, given that it’s an XXL and that I made no spec decisions based on weight besides the X01 cassette and cranks. It’s certainly the lightest mountain bike I’ve had in years.

  16. #2416
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    Quote Originally Posted by austink26 View Post
    Mine is 35 lbs for a large with coil shock, carbon wheels, cushcore, exo+ tires. This isn’t a light weight bike.


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    SC carbon frames are brickhouse strong. It's a trade-off (weight/strength)

    My HT weighs 31# with carbon rims/hb/cranks etc. and it rides/climbs faster than my previous bike, a 28# '17 Fuel EX, which would crack if you looked at it the wrong way.
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  17. #2417
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post

    And I'm not sure where you're getting 2+ for the parts? If you go off of retail costs, the Yari is around 699, the Fox38 Factory is 1199. 500 difference. The RS shock is around 399-499, the Cane Creek is around 599-699. Between 200-300 difference. And better wheelset/hubs is around 200-300 more. Ao a total difference of ~900-1100. Not that it even matters now, with this crappy news (not your fault obviously).
    A shop isn't going to give you credit for the retail cost of a take off part when they can get the same part from their wholesale supplier for much less. Remember this is a part they now have to house, resell as a take-off, etc. The wholesale cost of a Yari is probably in the $350 range. So the cost you pay to upgrade to a new fork is likely $850 + labor to install. So you're likely at $900. Plus tax. Eyeballing your other upgrades and it's easy to see $2k popping up real quick. Again, as a ballpark.

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    So, can you explain how this works, since I don't know please? You're making it sound like the bike is shipped from SC as a bunch of parts, and the LBS has to put it all together? Which then doesn't makes sense that SC won't let me the buyer swap out parts. If it comes in parts, then why won't they let you build the bike how you want, and just pay the difference? If it ONLY comes with specific parts for that build, then they don't need to do anything or put it together? Right? Sorry, I'm new to all of this, and a lot of this seems insane to me. So if I'm missing something here, sorry. That's why I'm asking
    Major brands (and this is actually where Santa Cruz likely just breaks in compared to the big guys like Trek, Giant, and Specialized... but I digress) set up a teared approach to their bikes. Which is why you see virtually every major bike out there come with 3-5 "builds". This lowers their cost because of economy of scale for the parts required. SC does a (IMO) better job than others keeping things consistent and doing things like putting a whole SRAM X01 drivetrain on a bike, instead of speccing mostly cheaper parts that you might not notice (GX level cassettes, chains, cranks, shifter), and tossing on an XO1 derailleur so you see the logo and think to yourself "man, I just got something higher end." Trek and Specialized have done that little trick for years.

    Smaller brands like GG are able to offer a customization service because they aren't buying their parts in the quantity that the big boys are. The cost savings to them is negligible so they might as well add another neat aspect to purchasing one of their bikes. As someone else pointed out, SC is probably selling more bikes in a month than GG sells in a year.

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    And that's good to hear there is a possibility they may swap out a few parts. I'd be willing to pay the difference between what they pay for it (cost), vs the retail price. But I don't need them to put anything together. I can do that myself.
    The shop might not be willing to give you any credit if you're swapping the parts yourself. Once that bike leaves the store it's used as is anything that's on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    And I know I can't put my dream bike together right off the bat. I was going to add certain things slowly over the next year or two. But... I really don't want a low end fork, shock, or brakes to start. I just want to get those parts switched out to great parts right away. At the very least, the fork and shock. Then swap out things like wheels, brakes, bars, cranks, hubs, etc later on as money becomes available.
    Then really you're looking at selling the take-off parts on your own. I wouldn't write off the stock stuff on the S (or even the R) builds. There are more an more Marzochi's showing up in the pro circuit which shares a damper with the Fox that's on the S build, for instance. The part spec doesn't exactly leave for wanting. Although, if you want premium, the XO1 build is definitely it.

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    I just can't get over the fact that the bike maker or LBS won't allow the swaps. It just seems like such bad service. Like for ex if I want to order a dream Golf Driver, I can do that. I don't have to buy the driver with some garbage shaft, still pay full retail, then have a club shop charge me $100-200 in addition to swap the garbage shaft out for the good one I want. AND charge me labor. I can just order the driver from the manufacturer with the shaft I want for a slight up-charge. Same goes for lots of other products. Why do bike makers force you into buying crap you don't want? I just can't believe that. Totally shocking and very disappointing
    They don't force you to buy it, though. Plenty of places do custom bikes building from a frame up. Some shops might even discount the parts you're buying since you're in essence buying a complete bike from them. This model actually fits your golf club example better. Buy the frame you want, put on exactly the fork you want, the crank, the BB, etc. Whether or not they offer any discounts or discount the labor to put your bike together is on them, though. Competitive Cyclist actually used to offer this option on frame-only sales (they still might, I haven't used them in years), online.

  18. #2418
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    Do you guys use 165mm crankset?


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  19. #2419
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    Anyone know if the 2021 gonna come with a 38 and new colour schemes?

  20. #2420
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Do you guys use 165mm crankset?


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    yeah I got on mine. Especially with flat pedals they are better, at least for finnish root infested woods

    been toying with the idea trying of mullet + flipchip on HI. Would be beneficial for that too.

    too bad you cant get carbon cranks (eagle descendant) in 165mm

  21. #2421
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMUSuperman View Post
    A shop isn't going to give you credit for the retail cost of a take off part when they can get the same part from their wholesale supplier for much less. Remember this is a part they now have to house, resell as a take-off, etc. The wholesale cost of a Yari is probably in the $350 range. So the cost you pay to upgrade to a new fork is likely $850 + labor to install. So you're likely at $900. Plus tax. Eyeballing your other upgrades and it's easy to see $2k popping up real quick. Again, as a ballpark.
    Interesting. Not what I expected at all, and makes no sense. But if that's how it works, then that's how it works. Thanks for explaining. I think in general, bike manufacturers charge OUTRAGEOUS prices for bikes and parts. You can buy a freaking motorcycle for the same cost as a good bike and the Moto has an ENGINE in it! I mean, it's just robbery by the manufacturers. So even though I don't agree with how the LBS's have to run, I understand it now. The bike makers have forced their hand.


    Quote Originally Posted by JMUSuperman View Post
    Major brands (and this is actually where Santa Cruz likely just breaks in compared to the big guys like Trek, Giant, and Specialized... but I digress) set up a teared approach to their bikes. Which is why you see virtually every major bike out there come with 3-5 "builds". This lowers their cost because of economy of scale for the parts required. SC does a (IMO) better job than others keeping things consistent and doing things like putting a whole SRAM X01 drivetrain on a bike, instead of speccing mostly cheaper parts that you might not notice (GX level cassettes, chains, cranks, shifter), and tossing on an XO1 derailleur so you see the logo and think to yourself "man, I just got something higher end." Trek and Specialized have done that little trick for years.

    Smaller brands like GG are able to offer a customization service because they aren't buying their parts in the quantity that the big boys are. The cost savings to them is negligible so they might as well add another neat aspect to purchasing one of their bikes. As someone else pointed out, SC is probably selling more bikes in a month than GG sells in a year.
    This once again makes me laugh. It may be that SC does a better jobs "spec'ng" their bikes than other bike makers, but still doesn't make any sense how much they charge, and that they won't let you build the bike you want! The fact remains, and you just said it, that the big bike makers have ALL these parts on hand in their warehouse/shop. So meaning, they CAN put any part they have on any bike they have. And just price it like GG does. They can still have 2-5 "builds" at a set price, but then, since they have all the other parts, they CAN allow the customer to build the bike they want with the parts they want, and not have to pay stupid prices for it. Like I just want everything GX type level parts. The only thing I want upgraded is the fork, shock, and maybe the wheels and brakes. So ANY big bike maker that already has those parts on hand COULD allow the customer to order build R or S or whatever, but then swap out the Fork D for Fork A, and just pay the difference. That is my point. The bike makers are offering HORRIBLE service and options AND over charging out to yazooo for it! It's disgusting how many companies in this world are greedier than a pig! And just because this is "how it is", doesn't mean any of us have to like it! Trust me, if GG made the Smash in a XXL and it looked better, I'd buy that bike in a heart beat over anything else! Because they let you get the bike you want and not make you have to take out a loan just to pay for it! And the fact that the big bike companies do buy all those parts in bulk and cheaper, makes it EVEN MORE galling what they do. Not allowing us to get the bike we want at a reasonable price!

    Quote Originally Posted by JMUSuperman View Post
    The shop might not be willing to give you any credit if you're swapping the parts yourself. Once that bike leaves the store it's used as is anything that's on it.

    Then really you're looking at selling the take-off parts on your own. I wouldn't write off the stock stuff on the S (or even the R) builds. There are more an more Marzochi's showing up in the pro circuit which shares a damper with the Fox that's on the S build, for instance. The part spec doesn't exactly leave for wanting. Although, if you want premium, the XO1 build is definitely it.
    I understand. I know the Fox 36 float isn't a piece of junk or anything. But the point remains. I'm spending anywhere from 4500-5400 dollars!!! That's silly money for a bicycle!!! Just silly! So at that price, I would expect the best fork and shock. And if I'm already spending that outrageous amount, I want the best fork. This whole thing is just really putting a super bad taste in my mouth about bike makers!


    Quote Originally Posted by JMUSuperman View Post
    They don't force you to buy it, though. Plenty of places do custom bikes building from a frame up. Some shops might even discount the parts you're buying since you're in essence buying a complete bike from them. This model actually fits your golf club example better. Buy the frame you want, put on exactly the fork you want, the crank, the BB, etc. Whether or not they offer any discounts or discount the labor to put your bike together is on them, though. Competitive Cyclist actually used to offer this option on frame-only sales (they still might, I haven't used them in years), online.

    A customer built bike for what I want will end up costing 1-3k more than just buying the bike I don't want. So there's no point in even looking at this option. The frame costs 3300!!! Only a thousand less than the full R build. So even if the LBS that custom builds it for me has a discount of 25-40% off all the parts, it's STILL going to be over the 4500-5400 range. So that's not an option either.

    Also, please don't take any of this as being upset with you. I really appreciate your help and honesty with me. I had NO idea of the reality of this, and need to do some more research now and figure out a plan. At this point, I know I'm NOT going to get the bike I want when I purchase it, and it will take me years to get to that point. Which is a joke and wrong. But I thank you and everyone for explaining this, and in such detail here! I'm still going to end up getting a Mega, just need to figure out how I'm going to go about this.

    Best

  22. #2422
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    @wookie

    SC is a huge company shipping a ton of bikes around the world. It would be impossible to offer individual builds to every customer. That would increase lead times and make inventory a nightmare. If you want something custom you need to pay custom prices. I wanted a mega build not offered so I went frame up.

    Just because you feel it is a ton of money doesn’t mean it should come with the best stuff. That just doesn’t make sense. There is no set number for what quantifies the price of top end equipment. Why is 5k a crazy amount of money for a bike but not a car? In reality 5k is mid grade for a current full sus bike. That isn’t saying it is a bad bike, it just won’t have all the fancy bits.

    Margins in the bike industry are pretty slim on the high end bikes. Especially santa cruz. They are making their money on moving big numbers of bikes.

    As with most things in life, you can get exactly way you want if you are willing to pay for it. The whole reason we have mass produced items is to drive down the price for the consumer.

    I feel like you are lamenting the fact that you can’t get a custom build from a huge manufacturer at a midgrade price. That just doesn’t make sense.


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  23. #2423
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    Want to spec your own build? Buy a frame only and fit what you want on it.

  24. #2424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    Want to spec your own build? Buy a frame only and fit what you want on it.
    This.

  25. #2425
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    I'm spending anywhere from 4500-5400 dollars!!! That's silly money for a bicycle!!! Just silly! So at that price, I would expect the best fork and shock. And if I'm already spending that outrageous amount, I want the best fork. This whole thing is just really putting a super bad taste in my mouth about bike makers!





    A customer built bike for what I want will end up costing 1-3k more than just buying the bike I don't want. So there's no point in even looking at this option. The frame costs 3300!!!
    So you want a Carbon CC bike with factory suspension for $4500? LOL
    $3300 for that frame which is an engineering marvel IMO? Totally worth it.




    Not to mention the solid customer service, LBS support.
    Lifetime warranty, free bearings, affordable crash replacement prices for out of warranty issues.

    Outrageous!!! Silly!!! Really...

    Dude, don't buy it then.

    Buy a YT.
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  26. #2426
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    You could also consider stomping your feet and holding your breath outside your LBS until you get exactly what you want.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    So you want a Carbon CC bike with factory suspension for $4500? LOL
    $3300 for that frame which is an engineering marvel IMO? Totally worth it.




    Not to mention the solid customer service, LBS support.
    Lifetime warranty, free bearings, affordable crash replacement prices for out of warranty issues.

    Outrageous!!! Silly!!! Really...

    Dude, don't buy it then.

    Buy a YT.
    No I don't. Did you even read what I wrote, or just come on here to be negative and rude?

    I want the Std C frame bike. R build. But want to upgrade to a Fox36 Factory or Lyrik Ultimate, and a better shock. That should be an option. If you don't agree with that, great. But no need to get all bent out of shape and come in here with an attitude, trying to "show me" you're right. I don't have time for stuff like this man. Life is too short. Go out and ride and stop wasting time being critical of others.

    I'm not going to get into this here for a few reasons. The main one being, this is a forum thread for talking about the SC Mega, not getting attacked by someone and their opinions. So consider this discussion about bike pricing over. Thanks

  28. #2428
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    I just want to pop back in here to say that I have been comparing my cc xl mega back to back with a SD Ult Air with Megneg vs the SD Ult Coil. So far, the coil is superior for compliance and grip. The SD Air is better with teh megneg, but definitely gives up some ultimate suspension performance. I am struggling a bit with the SD Ult Air and Megneg dialing in the midstroke support. I find myself pushing through the travel a bit more than I expected. That being said, I haven't quite spent the time that I need to with the positive/negative air chamber and reducer balance with the megneg.

    More testing going on, currently, I prefer the coil sd ult.

  29. #2429
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    No I don't. Did you even read what I wrote, or just come on here to be negative and rude?

    I want the Std C frame bike. R build. But want to upgrade to a Fox36 Factory or Lyrik Ultimate, and a better shock. That should be an option. If you don't agree with that, great. But no need to get all bent out of shape and come in here with an attitude, trying to "show me" you're right. I don't have time for stuff like this man. Life is too short. Go out and ride and stop wasting time being critical of others.

    I'm not going to get into this here for a few reasons. The main one being, this is a forum thread for talking about the SC Mega, not getting attacked by someone and their opinions. So consider this discussion about bike pricing over. Thanks
    My apologies, that was pretty snarky/rude...and I do consider myself to have better reading comprehension than that. My bad.

    Seriously though, the YT Capra Pro Race 29 is $5500 and has a pretty killer build.
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  30. #2430
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    Superwookie is hilarious. We've already told him two months ago the Mega is NOT the best bike suited for his needs, and now here he is complaining about the price. Too much hair in your wookie ears, you can't hear?

    Guess what, Santa Cruz does not have a seperate Shimano/Sram/Fox/RS warehouse in the back, they have 22 R kits, 33 D kits, 54 S kits, whatever, so NO, it isn't worth it for them to swap out parts for you.

  31. #2431
    change is good
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    I can basically buy what I want but for the money.....
    1. Alloy frame. Can probably find a V1 Switchblade or something similar. Most bikes the past four years or so are pretty awesome. Thank goodness many of the AM/enduro frames are over built.
    2. Used fork with custom tune.
    3. Spacers in the rear shock.
    4. 32h Chinese carbon rims/DT350 hubs.

    A alloy Trance I built a few years ago wasn’t the best bike I owned but it was by far the best bike I owned for the money. Still proud of it.

    When I was poorer I drooled over the top bikes. It took years, but I finally got some nice rides. Now, the reality is the motor is not worth the bling, but you gots to do what you gots to do.



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  32. #2432
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    Interesting. Not what I expected at all, and makes no sense. But if that's how it works, then that's how it works. Thanks for explaining. I think in general, bike manufacturers charge OUTRAGEOUS prices for bikes and parts. You can buy a freaking motorcycle for the same cost as a good bike and the Moto has an ENGINE in it! I mean, it's just robbery by the manufacturers. So even though I don't agree with how the LBS's have to run, I understand it now. The bike makers have forced their hand.
    You're correct, you could buy a motorcycle at the same price point as a bicycle. But the two industries share little beyond the number of wheels on the product they produce. For one, the typical product life in the bicycle industry is about three years. That means a derailleur is being completely revamped every three years. That means new tooling, new designs, possibly sourcing new materials. Costs add up quick. The quantities are also a little bit different in the bicycle industry, likely lower. Take the fox fork you're talking about. There's substantial R&D that goes into creating something that performs at a high level, is adaptable to multiple situations, lasts for years, and has minimal negative impacts in performance despite being sealed up tight. The tolerances alone in a bicycle fork are beyond what is necessary in a moto fork. Not to mention it's being done at a fraction of the weight. That last bit is super important. These things can't weigh much, so as much performance as we pack in it still has to be pedaled around. I'm not sure any motos are coming with lifetime warranties on the frames. And while I can walk in to a bike shop, drop $10k and walk out with the exact bike that Aaron Gwin races on, that same $10k isn't going to get me the same bike a moto pro is riding.

    Definitely keep in mind that the mid level bike components of today are lightyears beyond the high end of components of 5 years ago. And performance for performance, I've found the line between the highest of the high end and mid-level stuff to continually be more and more invisible beyond the cost of entry.

  33. #2433
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    " bike manufacturers charge OUTRAGEOUS prices for bikes and parts. You can buy a freaking motorcycle for the same cost as a good bike and the Moto has an ENGINE in it! I mean, it's just robbery by the manufacturers. "




    Economies of scale might have something to do with it.


    "Definitely keep in mind that the mid level bike components of today are lightyears beyond the high end of components of 5 years ago"


    My first real mountain bike was a 1990 Cannondale rigid 7 speed, had an aluminum fork ( I think it was called the pepperoni fork) with oversize fork blades. Brutal ride, but taught me to pick my line.

    I never could have conceived what 30 years of technology evolution would bring us in the world of mountain bikes. It's a good time to be alive.

    Electricity is the next paradigm, glad I got to experience the pinnacle of the 100% human powered bicycle.

    I'm planning on buying an e-bike to compliment my HT2.
    2020 Turbo Levo SL Expert Carbon

  34. #2434
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    have you guys done anything to lighten the weight on the bike?

  35. #2435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    have you guys done anything to lighten the weight on the bike?
    I don’t know if rhere‘s any huge options...
    - you could go carbon on wheels
    - the XTR cassette saves you about 100g
    - carbon cranks are highly disputable
    - tires....... u go too light you end up with less time in the saddle
    - don’t go Fox 38, 200g more?

    Other major „savings“?
    I recon the oneup v2 might not be the lightest of seatposts......

  36. #2436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    have you guys done anything to lighten the weight on the bike?
    No, I added weight.

  37. #2437
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    I just put mine on the scales.

    Build is:-
    XL frame CC
    Next R cranks
    Rest is XTR
    Magura MT7 brakes
    203 Galfer rotors
    We are one agent wheels 240 hubs
    Cush core pro in the rear
    Maxxis assegai and aggressor exo 2.5’s
    RS super deluxe ultimate meg neg
    Fox 38 perf elite 170
    Enve M7 bar
    Rev grips
    Crank bro’s mallet E pedals
    Swat tool/chain breaker in head tube
    Specialized mini pump on bottle cage
    Tubolito tube and tire lever plus dynaplug hidden under saddle
    Titanium shock mount bolts and also brake mounts in Ti as well.

    Total weight 34.06lbs

    Pretty happy really, it’s a bulletproof build and rides lighter than the numbers say.

  38. #2438
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    with 174cm and inside leg length of 81cm which frame size u would recommended ? A medium or a large ?

  39. #2439
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    Quote Originally Posted by seb-mt View Post
    with 174cm and inside leg length of 81cm which frame size u would recommended ? A medium or a large ?
    I‘d go large

  40. #2440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    have you guys done anything to lighten the weight on the bike?
    Yes, drilled holes, mostly through the downtube, bigger the better because if you go too small it creates too much of a whistling sound. Dropped a full kilogram. Working on the tires next, cutting every second knob, this should gain me another 200g.


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  41. #2441
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    I have heard of drilling holes in the frame to reduce weight. But, always thought that would destroy the integrity of the frame and I would end up on the side of the trail with a crumpled bike?

  42. #2442
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    For the heck of it (and probably because sitting mostly at home is driving me insane) I went and ordered cheap 27 rear wheel and 2.5" WT DD aggressor. Will be trying that with High chip and 165mm cranks. I kinda reasoned* that the height of pedals wont be that far off compared to LO position and 170mm cranks :-DD

    might be tad too low though. I calculated something like 335mm bb height, which is pushing it.

    my reasoning:
    29 -> 27 rear tyre drops rear axle around 20mm, which translates to 10mm lower bb. Flipping the chip brings it back up 4mm. Original setup had 170mm cranks and 165mm brings it 5mm higher. In the end difference between 170mm cranks and LO being 1mm compared to 165mm and HI.

  43. #2443
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    I rode my megatower more with the SD Ult coil rear shock and I've never jived more with this bike that I have at this exact moment. I've run the bike with coil shocks before and demo'd it with an 11/6 for a while, but this is my first chance spending enough rides on a coil shock that I've got the setup where I would want it. the biggest thing for me is being able to run the rebound faster without having to deal with frantic rebuild on deep stroke events. Obviously there is better small bump compliance and traction.

    Overall I'm pretty happy with my current setup. I'm going to tear the bike down to service all of the pivots and do a full fork service. Then I'm going to go for one last ride with the coil shock, and put the SD Ult Air with megneg back on the bike as a back to back comparison.

  44. #2444
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    There's a problem with that though. I HAVE to get the charcoal bike with black letters. Or the green one. Those are LITERALLY the two sickest bikes I've ever seen and have a WHOLE design idea planned around them already! So I don't want another color.
    Is this satire? I think you also talked about wanting to get custom paint on every component everywhere, but also being extremely budget conscious and economizing your build to the point of being upset that the industry isn’t built around suppling mass-manufactued bikes in the way you imagined it should be.

    If you don’t like the way Santa Cruz operates their business you should buy from another manufacturer like GG. I think Ibis also allows you to do semi-custom swapping of forks/wheels/etc off of standard build kits.

    Maybe you don’t like the colors of those bikes so they aren’t options for you .

  45. #2445
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    Santa Cruz Megatower

    Quote Originally Posted by mtfun4bill View Post
    I have heard of drilling holes in the frame to reduce weight. But, always thought that would destroy the integrity of the frame and I would end up on the side of the trail with a crumpled bike?
    robnow please edit your post with an /s before someone kills themself

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  46. #2446
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeenyus View Post
    Is this satire? I think you also talked about wanting to get custom paint on every component everywhere, but also being extremely budget conscious and economizing your build to the point of being upset that the industry isn’t built around suppling mass-manufactued bikes in the way you imagined it should be.

    If you don’t like the way Santa Cruz operates their business you should buy from another manufacturer like GG. I think Ibis also allows you to do semi-custom swapping of forks/wheels/etc off of standard build kits.

    Maybe you don’t like the colors of those bikes so they aren’t options for you .
    I know he is wanting to stay under a certain budget but then wants custom everything. Does not make sense. He has made post in other threads about custom colored parts

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    2019 salsa timberjack

  47. #2447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    have you guys done anything to lighten the weight on the bike?
    Helium in the tire/shocks/dropper

  48. #2448
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    What if you completely seal off the frame, add a valve and fill it up with helium?

  49. #2449
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    Has anyone on here tried running a 65mm shock with the Cascade link yet? Currently running a 60mm shock to give 170mm travel and the bike feels great. Just pulled the trigger on a 180mm fork and was going to upgrade the shock too so wondering if it would be worth just going for a 65mm shock to get 180mm front and rear? There doesn't seem to be any compromise going for the longer shock in terms of peddling so it sounds like a no brainer but am I missing something? 180/180 29er is going to be a monster!

  50. #2450
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    Did you install that 180mm fork yet? The Fox 38?

    The issue I can see is the fork will bring up the front end by a fair bit, and then add the longer stroke rear shock - you're gonna be sitting on the back of the bike a bit more, instead of being more centered.

    I don't think it'll be the end of the world. I currently have a 180 travel fork and to compensate for the extra 30mm in height compared to my old Fox 36 160mm, I put my 50mm stem back on (vs my 40mm stem), put the chainstay in the long setting, and shock in the low setting. I can still climb "okay".
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  51. #2451
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    Completely agree and I've been trying to consider as many factors as possible. The Cascade link is fixed in high position which helps to keep the bike a little more level I guess but of course you'll end up sitting a little deeper in the sag too. Also, I'm already running 170 up front which hasn't been detrimental at all so thinking 10mm or so shouldn't make much difference, especially as the Mega has such a low BB anyway. Handle bar position I can play with and the slightly slacker seat tube shouldn't be too much of a problem either?

    Not got the 38 yet, it'll get to me by the end of the month, but it looks like it's just what the bike needs. Prefect for hard charging and the odd uplift day.

    I've got a feeling I'm trying to talk myself into this!

  52. #2452
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    This thread is a lot to wade through. Need some help with sizing. I'm just under 6'1" (185cm), coming from a L htlt. L or XL for the Mega?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  53. #2453
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    This thread is a lot to wade through. Need some help with sizing. I'm just under 6'1" (185cm), coming from a L htlt. L or XL for the Mega?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Either of them is going to have a bigger reach than what you are used to. Large will feel more similar, but just based on height I would go xl.


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  54. #2454
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
    This thread is a lot to wade through. Need some help with sizing. I'm just under 6'1" (185cm), coming from a L htlt. L or XL for the Mega?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    I'm 5'11" on a large. I run/prefer a short stem (35mm) and I wouldn't want the frame to be any smaller, or bigger for that matter. When you're on the cusp of two sizes, it can really come down to personal preference and how you setup your bikes. At 6'1" I'd expect an XL HTLT would be the "right" fit for you. So maybe you prefer a shorter feeling bike in which case an L MT may be perfect and XL may feel quite long vs what you're used to. I was on a L OGHT before the Mega and now that thing feels crazy small.
    Obviously, if you have any chance of going to a shop and sitting on one of each size and at least rolling around the lot, that'd be your best bet.

  55. #2455
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    Quote Originally Posted by austink26 View Post
    Either of them is going to have a bigger reach than what you are used to. Large will feel more similar, but just based on height I would go xl.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    XL for sure.

    I have a short torso, longer legs and arms so I'm good on a large with a 40mm stem. Now with a 180mm fork, I went up to a 50mm stem to make it climb-friendly again.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  56. #2456
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Yes, drilled holes, mostly through the downtube, bigger the better because if you go too small it creates too much of a whistling sound. Dropped a full kilogram. Working on the tires next, cutting every second knob, this should gain me another 200g.
    But then you lose all the aerodynamic benefits of carbon fiber! Whatever time you save going up, you lose riding that whiffle ball back down. You’re better off using a sander to remove that 200g evenly from the frame. That’ll also make it easier to use a hammer and punch to add speed dimples, like a golf ball. That’ll be faster on both the ups and the downs.

    I like your idea with the tires, but you’re still stuck with a big, heavy casing once you’re done. You’d save a lot more weight if you just used CushCore without any actual tires. If they spin on the rim during braking or whatever, maybe attach them to the rims with some finishing nails.

  57. #2457
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    Getting ready to build up a new custom megatower,

    Frame, Megatower CC in blackout
    Fork, Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate
    Shock Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate w/ MegNeg
    Drivetrain, Sram X01 AXS w/ Raceface Next R Cranks
    Dropper, Rockshox Reverb AXS
    Wheels, SC Reserve 30 custom built to i9 hubs
    Brakes Magura MT7
    Cockpit i9 A35 40mm stem and Raceface Next R bars
    Still trying to decide on the rubber.

  58. #2458
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    Quote Originally Posted by seb-mt View Post
    with 174cm and inside leg length of 81cm which frame size u would recommended ? A medium or a large ?
    I'm 174 cm and run size M

  59. #2459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damian75 View Post
    Getting ready to build up a new custom megatower,

    Frame, Megatower CC in blackout
    Fork, Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate
    Shock Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate w/ MegNeg
    Drivetrain, Sram X01 AXS w/ Raceface Next R Cranks
    Dropper, Rockshox Reverb AXS
    Wheels, SC Reserve 30 custom built to i9 hubs
    Brakes Magura MT7
    Cockpit i9 A35 40mm stem and Raceface Next R bars
    Still trying to decide on the rubber.
    Easy answer
    Front: Assegai or DHF
    Rear: DHR2 or aggressor

    If your in the rocks alot id go DHF/aggressor.

    If your in dirt assegai/DHR2

    Really any mix and match with those are great combos.

    It looks like weight is a concern from the build, and if so Avoid the Assegai. Lots of rubber - they arent light - but I love them up front.

    Im also a fan of DH casings no inserts, but that doesn’t always pan put w/ carbon rims. Sometimes a rock finds the rim just right no matter what.

    Maybe EXO+ and Cushcore XC - need to try that.


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    :thumbsup: believe in yourself! I believe in you! :thumbsup:

  60. #2460
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperWookie View Post
    I want the Std C frame bike. R build. But want to upgrade to a Fox36 Factory or Lyrik Ultimate, and a better shock. That should be an option. If you don't agree with that, great. But no need to get all bent out of shape and come in here with an attitude, trying to "show me" you're right. I don't have time for stuff like this man. Life is too short. Go out and ride and stop wasting time being critical of others.
    I don't know much about Mountain Bikes. But I had some cash to burn. Bought a 2019 Hightower LT S - purchased the new XT 12spd Drivetrain, with 2pst XT Brakes, a 2020 Fox Factor 36 Fork Fit4, with DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One Wheels. Sits in my garage and looks pretty bad ass on the Elite Stand I bought. =D

    True story. But a side note - just buy the S or R and upgrade the parts. I would start with the Drivetrain. Then pick up a deal on a fork and pair of wheels and you're set.

  61. #2461
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    What is the spindle size of crankset for megatower? Is it default 73mm?

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  62. #2462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    What is the spindle size of crankset for megatower? Is it default 73mm?
    It has a 73mm BSA bottom bracket shell, yeah.

  63. #2463
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    If anyone is looking for a fry sauce frame in large.

    https://www.backcountry.com/santa-cr...iABEgJqwPD_BwE



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  64. #2464
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Anyone have issues with the lower bearing of the headset attracting a bunch of crud? Not sure why but my headset gets super gritty on this bike for some reason. Any idea if this a Cane Creek 40 issue or due to the frame design?
    Those headsets are trash,, bearing cups seems to be a softer material than they ought to be.. I replaced bearings twice in one season before upgrading..

  65. #2465
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    Yeah the Assegai is a bit much for my normal riding, I have been looking at the Dissector as well.

  66. #2466
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    Hello, I recently became a proud owner of a santa cruz megatower. Now I rode my first trail yesterday and noticed some play in the rear triangle. Does anyone know how to fix this play? All bolts seem to be properly tightened. As a damper I run a rockshox coil super deluxe, could it be this?

    Thanks in advance.

  67. #2467
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    if you have sram 746 rear hub (comes at least with megatower c r) those are quite notorious for having play quite often. you'll need at least one 19mm cone spanner and an adjustable wrench.

  68. #2468
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    Thanks for your quick reply. I have looked into it and found the problem. In the piece where you can change reear wheel setting is a little tiny allen bolt inside. This has to be screwed against the frame from the inside otherwise some play maintains between the piece and the frame. Took some pics. Will try to upload these.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  69. #2469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    Thanks for your quick reply. I have looked into it and found the problem. In the piece where you can change reear wheel setting is a little tiny allen bolt inside. This has to be screwed against the frame from the inside otherwise some play maintains between the piece and the frame. Took some pics. Will try to upload these.
    Yeah, the loose chainstay flip chip is a known issue. I put loctite on mine.

  70. #2470
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    Yeah good idea! What are you riding; the long or the short wheelbase?
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  71. #2471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    Yeah good idea! What are you riding; the long or the short wheelbase?
    Long. I also wrapped a layer of painter's tape around the flipchip. I've read of someone using fiber paste on it too.

  72. #2472
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    That plumber's Teflon tape works well too.

    That bolt that secures the other dropout can come loose too and make the rear wheel feel like the bearings are loose. Keep an eye on that.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  73. #2473
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    Hello everyone,
    I just rode a XXL Megatower around the parking lot and canal path at the LBS. It is was just a few minutes but confirmed that it fits me, 6'5". Unfortunately, it's seems like no one is doing demos these days, but I was happy to see an LBS with an XXL. However, it's a R build. I was wanting an S build but for a good deal I might take the R build. They said it would be $4299 out the door. Seems like a pretty good deal.

    A couple of questions. At 230lbs, am I going to destroy these wheels? The S build seems like it comes with a solid wheelset.

    I'll probably upgrade my brakes to Shimano. Will the 203mm Shimano rotor work in the rear or without the need of a different adapter?

    Anything else I should be worried about with the R build?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  74. #2474
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    My cc, xo build has Race Face Wheels.
    They're not particularly reliable I've found.
    Work a custom wheel set with DT Swiss ex 511 and your hub of choice into the deal and you'll be ready to rumble.

  75. #2475
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    5’9.5 tall. Current ride a Large HTLT. You think a Large MT would be best?

  76. #2476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    5’9.5 tall. Current ride a Large HTLT. You think a Large MT would be best?
    thats 176cm'ish? Yeah, I think M would fit well. Im 180 with L.

  77. #2477
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    Thanks, I'll keep an eye on that one as well.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  78. #2478
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    I am 183cm (6'0.04) and I love my XL!
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  79. #2479
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    Quote Originally Posted by bike_futurist View Post
    thats 176cm'ish? Yeah, I think M would fit well. Im 180 with L.
    That's more 181cm! I am 183 and ride an XL MT.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  80. #2480
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    I am also 183 and ride L. )

  81. #2481
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    Quote Originally Posted by accordnick View Post
    I am also 183 and ride L. )
    And... how does it feel? I have never had the change to try the L-size. Maybe a bit easier with handling.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  82. #2482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    And... how does it feel? I have never had the change to try the L-size. Maybe a bit easier with handling.
    I would suggest you that if you own now a bike who fit you well check the geometry to avoid feel long or short, I will give my example: I owned a Nomad MK3 size M (all my bikes are size M, I'm 1,74m @ 5'9"), so I changed to a Megatower size M, but the new geometries Longer, Lower, Slacker made me a bad trick, my old nomad with reach and my stem of 40mm installed is just 8mm shorter than the reach of the Mega (without any stem), I'm running a 50mm stem in my Mega so is like running my old Nomad with a 98mm stem, crazy numbers coming from same size M and same brand, the most accurate reach to my nomad is the Mega in size S. All the others number are not so crazy but the reach is the one making my ride strange from the first day. I realized this after comparing side by side geometries. Now the only possible solution is change my stem to a 32mm, and with that still longer that what I spectating. So my recommendation is compare geometries and if possible do a demo in different sizes and figure it how could be with a shorter stem or longer one depending the frame size you would choose.

  83. #2483
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    Quote Originally Posted by partswhore View Post
    A few new goodies on the whip this spring. Swapped the black 36 and reverb out for shiny Fox 38 and kashima seatpost instead.

    PW, how is this working out for you so far? Thinking of putting a 38 on my Mega and moving my 2020 36 over to the trail bike. It is at 160mm?
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  84. #2484
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    Yea, i'm like 181 cm. Still thinking a large probably best?

  85. #2485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    And... how does it feel? I have never had the change to try the L-size. Maybe a bit easier with handling.
    I ride mostly natural trails with tight & tricky sections. For bike parks/enduro races I'd try XL. Very personal matter.

  86. #2486
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    PW, how is this working out for you so far? Thinking of putting a 38 on my Mega and moving my 2020 36 over to the trail bike. It is at 160mm?
    My ride has a Fox 36 factory float 170mm but measuring the tubes it comes closer to 178mm. No problem for me riding uphill.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  87. #2487
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    I’m pretty sure fox has been doing that for a couple years, the upper 10mm or so of the stanchions isn’t used. It’s all calculated into the axle to crown length.

  88. #2488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    Yea, i'm like 181 cm. Still thinking a large probably best?
    you could very well ride anything between M and XL. I'm 180 myself and comfortable on L. Some want to upsize for added calmness, some want smaller for agility. For example 184 cm Richey Rude rides M (440 reach) yeti. Pros obviously got more strength than us mere mortals, but then again we don't ride such terrain or so fast either.

  89. #2489
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    If anyone is looking for nitty gritty details on the suspension kinematics of the Megatower, and also a comparison that shows how different it is from the Hightower LT, here's a good resource: https://mtbsr.com/santa-cruz-megatower/

  90. #2490
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    I already lost my lil screw at the back flip chip never actually getting to see it- anyone know where to get a proper replacement?

  91. #2491
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    Quote Originally Posted by freyrida View Post
    I already lost my lil screw at the back flip chip never actually getting to see it- anyone know where to get a proper replacement?
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Same thing happened to me. I don't remember what one from the set I just linked works, but I'm certain that the one you are looking for is in there. I think it's pretty important to use stainless to help fight galvanic corrosion between the carbon, aluminum and steel set screw.

  92. #2492
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    You guys get creaky noise coming from the rear end?? I'm going to wrap the dropout bits with plumbers tape and clean up/lube my cinch cranks and chainring. The noise is mostly when I'm putting power down while I'm climbing.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  93. #2493
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    Quote Originally Posted by freyrida View Post
    I already lost my lil screw at the back flip chip never actually getting to see it- anyone know where to get a proper replacement?
    Must say I really fully in love with the bike and the brand, but must say that this solution (lil screw) is a bit cheap for such an expensive bike!
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  94. #2494
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    Must say I really fully in love with the bike and the brand, but must say that this solution (lil screw) is a bit cheap for such an expensive bike!
    A set screw is the proper thing to use in this case. You just need to make sure that it has loctite 242 on it and check it occasionally. There is nothing "cheap" about a set screw on the dropouts.

  95. #2495
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    You guys get creaky noise coming from the rear end?? I'm going to wrap the dropout bits with plumbers tape and clean up/lube my cinch cranks and chainring. The noise is mostly when I'm putting power down while I'm climbing.
    Did you check the rear ends? the chips to change to long or short sometimes get loose because the small screw and tend to move the rear wheel or make noises. Check the small screws and if you can add a drop of Loctite blue to them.

  96. #2496
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    Hi all,
    Ive just bought a fox x2, can anyone direct me towards the correct rear mounting hardware? im struggling to find the correct one.
    Thanks in advance

  97. #2497
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    https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-CA/bikes/megatower

    -scroll down to tech support
    -click components
    -scroll down to the bottom of components and the info is there
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  98. #2498
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    My chain stay flip chip came loose and started rattling any time I jostled my bike... this is the 3rd time in about 7 months, used blue loctite previously, apparently to no avail.
    I gave it a wrap and a half of plumbers teflon tape, much quieter even before I tightened up the little grub screw.

  99. #2499
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    I used 2 full wraps of electrical tape. Took some force getting it seated. A little disappointed in the tolerances for that part.

  100. #2500
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    I used carbon paste after my painter's tape started to break down.

  101. #2501
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    how does the megatower lower linkage help with performance?
    does the lower linkage perform better than upper linkage of old design?

  102. #2502
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    Does anyone know if SC will make an update this summer to the Megatower with new colors and builds?

    I'm hoping for a XT or SLX build.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  103. #2503
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    Lol!
    That right there made me laugh out loud!
    ...thank you for that.

  104. #2504
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    Finished build last night (frameset w old parts). 170/170, cascade link 230x60 SDU with Meg neg. First ride tonight!
    Santa Cruz Megatower-img_20200616_174118264.jpg
    Santa Cruz Megatower-img_20200616_174048692_hdr.jpg

  105. #2505
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    Nice mint bike! ) But if you are not super light I'd change the rear rim... to EX511 for example.

  106. #2506
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    Quote Originally Posted by accordnick View Post
    Nice mint bike! ) But if you are not super light I'd change the rear rim... to EX511 for example.
    Those are trail/winter wheels...though they have had no issues with bigger hits.It was only in the past 5 years that people started thinking you need DD casing tires and 600g rims to go over some rocks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Santa Cruz Megatower-img_20200507_204710760.jpg  


  107. #2507
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Those are trail/winter wheels...though they have had no issues with bigger hits.It was only in the past 5 years that people started thinking you need DD casing tires and 600g rims to go over some rocks.
    The second wheel set is ok. I've dented my rear XM481 while first ride... 2 years ago. )

  108. #2508
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    Will there be a new Megatower coming out this summer? Maybe just a new color scheme or something?

  109. #2509
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffkoop View Post
    Will there be a new Megatower coming out this summer? Maybe just a new color scheme or something?
    new colors for hightower and megatower, probably a blur will be the next new bike released

  110. #2510
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    new colors for hightower and megatower, probably a blur will be the next new bike released
    Local shop said July 7 is the day the new colours will be out.

  111. #2511
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    Quote Originally Posted by DevinciSean View Post
    Local shop said July 7 is the day the new colours will be out.
    When I purchased my frame a few weeks ago, the shop said that the new colors weren't likely to be available until September (even if they are released).

  112. #2512
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    So did a day of park riding on the MT LT and have a few trail rides as well. Great bike so far. I'm going to remove the meg neg. I don't think it was meant for this frame, at least in combo with the cascade link. I haven't used full travel yet so added another band for a total of 3. I could add another band and remove the one volume spacer, but think I'm going to start over without the meg neg and put in 2 spacers. The suspension never felt harsh so I can only imagine how good it will feel when I just run the 230x60 shock without the megneg. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has tried it on this frame. I really only did it because I had bought the megneg for another project that I didn't end up using it.

  113. #2513
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    When I purchased my frame a few weeks ago, the shop said that the new colors weren't likely to be available until September (even if they are released).
    I don't care about new colors but I'm hoping for a Shimano build. I can be patient.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  114. #2514
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slyham View Post
    I don't care about new colors but I'm hoping for a Shimano build. I can be patient.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Yeah I think you should expect late summer for availability. But it often depends on what size/build you order. The shop I buy from is usually fairly accurate, though they are at the mercy of the info they get from SC. I just bought mine as a frame and built up using my 12spd XT group/components.

  115. #2515
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Yeah I think you should expect late summer for availability. But it often depends on what size/build you order. The shop I buy from is usually fairly accurate, though they are at the mercy of the info they get from SC. I just bought mine as a frame and built up using my 12spd XT group/components.
    I would do the same if they sold the C frame. The CC frame plus build it a little over my budget.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  116. #2516
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slyham View Post
    I would do the same if they sold the C frame. The CC frame plus build it a little over my budget.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    I've more less kept in the 29er with a 160mm+ fork and 148 boost rear wheel category the couple of years so I've just be switching components. Consider frame $3300 + Lyrik select $750 + $500 wheelset=4550 about the same as the R build so if you already have a shift group and bars/seatpost/brakes....not a huge difference plus you get to have your pick of components.

  117. #2517
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I've more less kept in the 29er with a 160mm+ fork and 148 boost rear wheel category the couple of years so I've just be switching components. Consider frame $3300 + Lyrik select $750 + $500 wheelset=4550 about the same as the R build so if you already have a shift group and bars/seatpost/brakes....not a huge difference plus you get to have your pick of components.
    I'll be selling my stumpjumper to fund this next bike so I will not have any parts to swap over.

    I'll cross my fingers for a Carbon C SLX build, but I may just be dreaming.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  118. #2518
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    Ive purchased a few of the CS santa cruz builds and was able to sell the sram components and put on shimano with out coming out of pocket too much

  119. #2519
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    I put the new 11-6 on my Mega and it feel amazing. Rode at a bike park the day I put it on and after a few laps I noticed that the shock was rotating side to side about 1/2" in either direction. I was tripping out, a few mechanics said I had the wrong hardware. Finally contacted PUSH and they said its normal and due to the spherical bearing. It rides great but i'm still skeptical. Ill post some pictures when i'm not lazy

  120. #2520
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanmj View Post
    I put the new 11-6 on my Mega and it feel amazing. Rode at a bike park the day I put it on and after a few laps I noticed that the shock was rotating side to side about 1/2" in either direction. I was tripping out, a few mechanics said I had the wrong hardware. Finally contacted PUSH and they said its normal and due to the spherical bearing. It rides great but i'm still skeptical. Ill post some pictures when i'm not lazy
    It's normal.

  121. #2521
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slyham View Post
    I'll be selling my stumpjumper to fund this next bike so I will not have any parts to swap over.

    I'll cross my fingers for a Carbon C SLX build, but I may just be dreaming.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Not SLX but XT and coil models come with a 38

  122. #2522
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanmj View Post
    I put the new 11-6 on my Mega and it feel amazing. Rode at a bike park the day I put it on and after a few laps I noticed that the shock was rotating side to side about 1/2" in either direction. I was tripping out, a few mechanics said I had the wrong hardware. Finally contacted PUSH and they said its normal and due to the spherical bearing. It rides great but i'm still skeptical. Ill post some pictures when i'm not lazy
    isnt it one of the major new features of the shock? Kind of surprising for someone to buy one and not knowing

  123. #2523
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    I was aware of the new bearings but wasn't expecting the movement to be so drastic. Seeing the shock rotate when weighting the bike was unexpected. The other thing that concerned me was when the shock is rotated you can see past the mounting hardware to the bearing, it looks like they seal them with a "foam" washer but its seems to be off centered. Anyways, just sharing my experience with the shock. Again, it rides amazing.

  124. #2524
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    Update on megneg. So I removed the megneg and the shock didn't 'feel' as good/plush. Still couldn't bottom it out, however the ride I did didn't have anything more than a couple feet of drop and I wouldn't expect it to. So going to continue removing volume spacers but have a feeling the Megneg might go back on in it's lightest setting (4 bands).

  125. #2525
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    Question for any one running AXS on their Mega. I'm running a 32t up front, and 10-50t in the back if that matters. When I did the chain measurement, I did the same thing I've always done, big big plus 2 full links. This has pretty much always been bang on, since the VPP has a bit of chain growth.

    On SRAM's AXS install guide on youtube, they say on full suspension bikes to bottom the suspension, go big big and add only one full link. They did this on a Santa Cruz Bronson (I think), in their video, so assuming this is ok?

    Any thoughts on which is the right way? Just worried doing it the SRAM method may stretch the derailleur too much in certain situations? Could be I'm overthinking this...and I just need to do it their way.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  126. #2526
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    I think on sram you add 2 with the suspension compressed (don't quote me check their manual). If you're not sure, check the derailleur appearance by holding the chain together at the length you selected (+ quicklink) and see how it looks. Then also check appearance in smallest cog. Use your eyes. Better to go too long and remove a link.

  127. #2527
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I think on sram you add 2 with the suspension compressed (don't quote me check their manual). If you're not sure, check the derailleur appearance by holding the chain together at the length you selected (+ quicklink) and see how it looks. Then also check appearance in smallest cog. Use your eyes. Better to go too long and remove a link.
    This is the vid I was referencing, should have put in my original post:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBkX44-C8AM

    It doesn't say anything about taking into account chain growth, which is what I was concerned about and I used my normal method. The chain growth is at is max a little bit before the shock bottoms, IIRC.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  128. #2528
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    How often do you bottom our on the biggest cog? I’d say you’re fine with one less.

  129. #2529
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Update on megneg. So I removed the megneg and the shock didn't 'feel' as good/plush. Still couldn't bottom it out, however the ride I did didn't have anything more than a couple feet of drop and I wouldn't expect it to. So going to continue removing volume spacers but have a feeling the Megneg might go back on in it's lightest setting (4 bands).
    I'm about to do the same thing on my Mega with a Cascade link and Megneg. Starting with no volume spacers and two bands with the stock(230 X 57.5) shock. Have to tried with no volume spacers? What's your riding weight?

  130. #2530
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biscuit Pants View Post
    I'm about to do the same thing on my Mega with a Cascade link and Megneg. Starting with no volume spacers and two bands with the stock(230 X 57.5) shock. Have to tried with no volume spacers? What's your riding weight?
    I removed all my spacers this weekend, increased my air pressure about 7 pounds, and slowed down my rebound. It did feel much better. I'm going to ride it a couple more weeks like that then try the meg neg again and see how I feel about it. Right now 208psi, 4 clicks rebound from closed, weight 185lbs, no spacers, 30% sag. 230x60

  131. #2531
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    Anyone have the new Fox X2 on their bike? Since Whistler bike park is a write-off this year, my DH bike funds can now be allocated elsewhere!

    Or I send my Tractive tuned Super Deluxe back to Vorsprung for a revalve since it's still harsh as hell.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  132. #2532
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Anyone have the new Fox X2 on their bike? Since Whistler bike park is a write-off this year, my DH bike funds can now be allocated elsewhere!

    Or I send my Tractive tuned Super Deluxe back to Vorsprung for a revalve since it's still harsh as hell.
    The metric sizes are on back order.

  133. #2533
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Or I send my Tractive tuned Super Deluxe back to Vorsprung for a revalve since it's still harsh as hell.
    Really? Sorry man, mine that Steve worked feels fantastic.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  134. #2534
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    Yeah, when I first bolted her on, I found there was almost no difference between open mode and climb mode. I didn't really care because I know a custom tuned shock usually has a good amount of low compression that blows off as soon as things get rowdy. Then on the descents, I can at least say I wasn't losing control so I figured the shock was doing it's job, but I kept thinking to myself "is there a difference between before and after??" The bike still felt rough and felt like the rear wheel was skipping over the little stuff. I'll email them and see what they say.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  135. #2535
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    get a coil

  136. #2536
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    As tempting as it is to go coil, my CCDB Air (with little custom upgrades) runs better than my Super Deluxe. Smooths out the trail chatter better and the overall feel matches the Fox 38 in front. But I'm convinced the Super Deluxe could be made to work better.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  137. #2537
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    Hi all. I know there was previously some talk about the Cascade link for the MT. Just wondering whether anyone has any long term views on it. Considering picking one up. I currently have an EXT Storia from my old V4 Nomad on the MT, and the Cascade link would work to balance the bike at 170 F&R. Main reason for considering is even greater DH capability with even more sensitivity off the top and associated grip.

    Long term views?

    People had to change spring rate? Much?

    Thanks
    Santacruz Megatower Blackout with EXT Storia
    1997 Kona Hahanna SS convert...

  138. #2538
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    I fixed the chainstay flip chip!

    Mine worked its way loose this morning, so I resolved to take action. I’d previously tried loctite, but that didn’t work — the grub screw compressed the carbon a little, the chip got loose, the wheel rattled, and I had to spend an hour trying to get enough torque on a 2mm allen key to back the grub screw out without stripping it.

    As other have said, the issue with the chip coming loose is that the chip is a little bit too wide. As a result, when the thru-axle is tightened, the hub end cap rests on the chip and not the frame itself, which means the only thing keeping the chainstay connected to the hub end cap is that little grub screw.

    So I just spent 10 minutes sanding the hub side of the chip down with some 2000 grit sandpaper. I took maybe 0.5-1mm of material off. You can verify that this works by taking the grub screw out entirely and putting your wheel on. A stock chip will rattle, but a sanded chip won’t — it’s held firmly in place between the thru-axle head and the hub end cap. The grub screw is only in there to keep the chip from falling out of the chainstay when you take your wheel off.

  139. #2539
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    Quote Originally Posted by codahale View Post
    Mine worked its way loose this morning, so I resolved to take action. I’d previously tried loctite, but that didn’t work — the grub screw compressed the carbon a little, the chip got loose, the wheel rattled, and I had to spend an hour trying to get enough torque on a 2mm allen key to back the grub screw out without stripping it.

    As other have said, the issue with the chip coming loose is that the chip is a little bit too wide. As a result, when the thru-axle is tightened, the hub end cap rests on the chip and not the frame itself, which means the only thing keeping the chainstay connected to the hub end cap is that little grub screw.

    So I just spent 10 minutes sanding the hub side of the chip down with some 2000 grit sandpaper. I took maybe 0.5-1mm of material off. You can verify that this works by taking the grub screw out entirely and putting your wheel on. A stock chip will rattle, but a sanded chip won’t — it’s held firmly in place between the thru-axle head and the hub end cap. The grub screw is only in there to keep the chip from falling out of the chainstay when you take your wheel off.
    I put a little bit of tape around the flipchip an pushed it back in and tightened the grub screw. Works perfectely as well.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  140. #2540
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    I put a little bit of tape around the flipchip an pushed it back in and tightened the grub screw. Works perfectely as well.
    This isn’t as good of a solution as sanding down the chip.

    If you sand down the chip, tightening the thru-axle creates compressive force from the thru-axle head to the chip, from the chip to the chainstay, and from the chainstay to the hub end cap.

    If you tape up the chip, tightening the thru-axle creates compressive force from the thru-axle head to the chip, from the chip to the tape, from the tape to the chainstay, etc.

    I don’t want tape to be a load-bearing part of how my rear wheel stays on track.

  141. #2541
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    Quote Originally Posted by codahale View Post
    Mine worked its way loose this morning, so I resolved to take action. I’d previously tried loctite, but that didn’t work — the grub screw compressed the carbon a little, the chip got loose, the wheel rattled, and I had to spend an hour trying to get enough torque on a 2mm allen key to back the grub screw out without stripping it.

    As other have said, the issue with the chip coming loose is that the chip is a little bit too wide. As a result, when the thru-axle is tightened, the hub end cap rests on the chip and not the frame itself, which means the only thing keeping the chainstay connected to the hub end cap is that little grub screw.

    So I just spent 10 minutes sanding the hub side of the chip down with some 2000 grit sandpaper. I took maybe 0.5-1mm of material off. You can verify that this works by taking the grub screw out entirely and putting your wheel on. A stock chip will rattle, but a sanded chip won’t — it’s held firmly in place between the thru-axle head and the hub end cap. The grub screw is only in there to keep the chip from falling out of the chainstay when you take your wheel off.
    Interesting. I'm going to take a look at my mega this weekend and see if mine has the same issues. I'll report back.

  142. #2542
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    Quote Originally Posted by codahale View Post
    Mine worked its way loose this morning, so I resolved to take action. I’d previously tried loctite, but that didn’t work — the grub screw compressed the carbon a little, the chip got loose, the wheel rattled, and I had to spend an hour trying to get enough torque on a 2mm allen key to back the grub screw out without stripping it.

    As other have said, the issue with the chip coming loose is that the chip is a little bit too wide. As a result, when the thru-axle is tightened, the hub end cap rests on the chip and not the frame itself, which means the only thing keeping the chainstay connected to the hub end cap is that little grub screw.

    So I just spent 10 minutes sanding the hub side of the chip down with some 2000 grit sandpaper. I took maybe 0.5-1mm of material off. You can verify that this works by taking the grub screw out entirely and putting your wheel on. A stock chip will rattle, but a sanded chip won’t — it’s held firmly in place between the thru-axle head and the hub end cap. The grub screw is only in there to keep the chip from falling out of the chainstay when you take your wheel off.
    Were you able to visually tell the chip was too thick? I have the loose chip issue but it looks flush with the frame.

  143. #2543
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Were you able to visually tell the chip was too thick? I have the loose chip issue but it looks flush with the frame.
    You can kind of see it, but we’re talking 0.5-1mm maybe. If you want to see if your chip is too thick, just back the grub screw out so it’s not holding the chip in and put your wheel back on. If the wheel rattles, the chip is too thick.

  144. #2544
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    Quote Originally Posted by codahale View Post
    This isn’t as good of a solution as sanding down the chip.

    If you sand down the chip, tightening the thru-axle creates compressive force from the thru-axle head to the chip, from the chip to the chainstay, and from the chainstay to the hub end cap.

    If you tape up the chip, tightening the thru-axle creates compressive force from the thru-axle head to the chip, from the chip to the tape, from the tape to the chainstay, etc.

    I don’t want tape to be a load-bearing part of how my rear wheel stays on track.
    I admit to not being the smartest guy in a room, and I'm probably misinterpreting what your saying, but it seems like what you are describing is that the hub tightens against the chip and not the rear triangle. If this were the case then when you tighten the rear axel, it would compress the flip chip between the hub and the drop out in the rear triangle, which would fix it in place and prevent any movement or rattling.
    What we are experiencing is that the flip chip rattles when the wheel is installed and the axel is tightened. It will rattle by just jostling the bike around by hand in the garage. This wouldn't be the case if the rear axel was putting the flip chip in a bind between the hub and the rear triangle.

  145. #2545
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimitrin View Post
    I admit to not being the smartest guy in a room, and I'm probably misinterpreting what your saying, but it seems like what you are describing is that the hub tightens against the chip and not the rear triangle. If this were the case then when you tighten the rear axel, it would compress the flip chip between the hub and the drop out in the rear triangle, which would fix it in place and prevent any movement or rattling.
    What we are experiencing is that the flip chip rattles when the wheel is installed and the axel is tightened. It will rattle by just jostling the bike around by hand in the garage. This wouldn't be the case if the rear axel was putting the flip chip in a bind between the hub and the rear triangle.
    We’re absolutely experiencing the same problem and I’m telling you how to solve it permanently.

    If your chip is rattling when the grub screw is loose while and the rear wheel is installed, it’s because the hub end cap is compressed against the chip when it should be compressed against the chainstay. The grub screw is not there to hold your wheel on, it’s there to keep the chip from falling out when your wheel is off.

    As a thought experiment, imagine the chip with an extra inch on the inside. Given a narrower hub, you could absolutely put your rear wheel in and torque the thru-axle down. The head of the thru-axle would compress again the chip, the chip would compress against the outside of the chainstay, the inside of the chip would compress against the hub end cap, and the whole thing would rattle like crazy b/c there’s nothing on the inside of the chainstay to brace against the compressive forces but the grub screw.

    Again, that’s not why the grub screw is there. If you remove 0.5-1mm of material from the inside of the chip -- the part closest to your hub’s end cap -- then your hub’s end cap will compress against the chainstay, not the chip, and your wheel will be perfectly tight regardless of whether or not the grub screw is even installed.

  146. #2546
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    To put it another way:*if the head of the thru-axle is pressed up against the outside of the chip and the hub’s end cap is pressed up against the inside of the chip, what’s keeping the chip in the chainstay? (Answer: nothing, which is why it’s rattling.)

  147. #2547
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    Well thanks for the detailed reply.
    I'll check my flip chip to see if it protrudes at all.

  148. #2548
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    Quote Originally Posted by codahale View Post
    To put it another way:*if the head of the thru-axle is pressed up against the outside of the chip and the hub’s end cap is pressed up against the inside of the chip, what’s keeping the chip in the chainstay? (Answer: nothing, which is why it’s rattling.)
    I still don't get it, but i will have a better look next time the chip comes loose again. So far it works perfectly fine with the electric tape around the chip.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  149. #2549
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanski View Post
    I still don't get it, but i will have a better look next time the chip comes loose again. So far it works perfectly fine with the electric tape around the chip.
    Y’all are lucky it’s a holiday. Here’s a video explaining how this works: https://www.pinkbike.com/video/520008/

  150. #2550
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by codahale View Post
    Y’all are lucky it’s a holiday. Here’s a video explaining how this works: https://www.pinkbike.com/video/520008/
    you're good! Thanks for the vid! It's all clear to me now and seems a really solid solution for the loose flip chip issue!
    Is it ok if I post it on the facebook page for Hightower and Megatower riders?
    I think a lot of people would benefit from your video.
    Never ride faster as your guardian angle can fly...

  151. #2551
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    I want to swamp out my SRAM Code R for Shimano Saints.

    1. Are the Saints bolt on ready? Do I need any adapters/spacers/etc..
    2. I am assuming I should swap rotors as well. What do you recommend that will work with the Saints? I didn't see Saint specific rotors so I assumed 203 XTRs.

  152. #2552
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    Finally have the time to enjoy the new shimano xt 12 speed setup, really nice on my Megatower XL
    SC Megatower, SC Hightower LT(sold) , SC Tallboy 3(sold), Scott Genius, Commencal Meta HT

  153. #2553
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igotsoul4u View Post
    I want to swamp out my SRAM Code R for Shimano Saints.

    1. Are the Saints bolt on ready? Do I need any adapters/spacers/etc..
    2. I am assuming I should swap rotors as well. What do you recommend that will work with the Saints? I didn't see Saint specific rotors so I assumed 203 XTRs.

    1) The Saints are bolt on ready in the long chainstay setting using the provided parts -3mm spacers and adapter - that should have come with your frame. If you run the frame in the short setting, you'll have to get yourself the correct adapter from your shop/online for 203mm rotors.
    2) Any 203mm Shimano rotors will work with Saints. I currently use XT...I think.
    Intense 951 Evo and Santa Cruz Megatower

  154. #2554
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    They even have 203 slx rotors now. All ice tech rotors work great in my opinion. I ride saints but I know some sram users don't like that Shimano's are less adjustable (no bite point and lever adjust is pretty basic). To me, Shimano brakes are powerful, easy to service, and getting parts on sale is quite easy.

  155. #2555
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Anyone have the new Fox X2 on their bike? Since Whistler bike park is a write-off this year, my DH bike funds can now be allocated elsewhere!

    Or I send my Tractive tuned Super Deluxe back to Vorsprung for a revalve since it's still harsh as hell.
    I have the 2021 Float X2, I have 4 or 5 rides on it now. The air spring is superior to the Super Deluxe Air shock and works quite well with the leverage rate of the Mega. Feels like I have more support in the mid stroke for boosting jumps and trail features. Small bump sensitivity is improved as well. Damping feels great and the adjustable high speed is nice to fine tune big hit performance. I feel this shock is an upgrade in every way from the SD, maybe besides weight. Another benefit is that the shock stanchion is not in the line of fire from rear wheel roost. I suggest you get the Fox lower bearing eyelet kit as it fits perfectly into the lower link. TLDR the shock is great and makes the bike perform extremely well.

  156. #2556
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    I've got a 2019 Megatower X01 build coming next week ... brand new, was on sale. I was wondering if anyone that has it can help me out. The 36 Performance Elite fork that it comes with .. can it be adjust to 170mm travel .. or is that a diff model. I know the 29r 36's can go to 170, just wasn't sure if it's a diff sku.

    [email protected]

  157. #2557
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    Yes, I've converted my 2019 to 170mm.
    FWIW I'll likely convert it back for local trail riding and use the 170mm for gravity / bike park trips.
    It has shown to be a bit cumbersome for our tight technical local trails.

  158. #2558
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    Megatower 2021

    2021 megatower colors

    yellow
    storm grey

    personalmente no me gusto ninguno de estos dos colores.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Santa Cruz Megatower-captura-de-pantalla-2020-07-08-la-s-22.43.34.jpg  

    Santa Cruz Megatower-captura-de-pantalla-2020-07-08-la-s-22.43.22.jpg  


  159. #2559
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    None of the new colors look better imo.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  160. #2560
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    Is that pastel easter egg yellow??? Dear sweet baby jesus...
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  161. #2561
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    very suck colors
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Santa Cruz Megatower-captura-de-pantalla-2020-07-08-la-s-23.01.38.jpg  

    Santa Cruz Megatower-captura-de-pantalla-2020-07-08-la-s-23.01.04.jpg  


  162. #2562
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    Any XT or SLX builds?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  163. #2563
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    I like just about all of the new colors... too each their own, though.

  164. #2564
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    nothing breathakingly cool. Happy with my forest service green

  165. #2565
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    The yellow, and black with orange outline letters remind me of the old Tallboy LT.

  166. #2566
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    horrible - thats me out then

  167. #2567
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Does anyone know the frame cc weight itself? Website does not list the weight

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
    From Santa Cruz: CC XL Megatower frame without shock, with hardware: 2930 grams

  168. #2568
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    Where abouts do you ride? THis is my first timer on a 29r so I’ve heard some adjustment is needed so we’ll see how it goes ...did you drop into the low position when you ran the 170?

    I’m coming from a V3 Bronson with a 170 front 160 rear .. so wheelbase won’t be far off ...

    B.

    Quote Originally Posted by dimitrin View Post
    Yes, I've converted my 2019 to 170mm.
    FWIW I'll likely convert it back for local trail riding and use the 170mm for gravity / bike park trips.
    It has shown to be a bit cumbersome for our tight technical local trails.

  169. #2569
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slyham View Post
    Any XT or SLX builds?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    I'm hearing at least an XT build. Hope its the CC frame, unlike for the Hightower.

    This was from one of the authorized online dealers when I tried to customize an XT build and was told to wait because it was coming.

  170. #2570
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    Quote Originally Posted by grrrah View Post
    I'm hearing at least an XT build. Hope its the CC frame, unlike for the Hightower.

    This was from one of the authorized online dealers when I tried to customize an XT build and was told to wait because it was coming.
    Great. Thanks.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  171. #2571
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    Quote Originally Posted by regiobike View Post
    Finally have the time to enjoy the new shimano xt 12 speed setup, really nice on my Megatower XL
    How are you liking the Rockguardz? Best investment I think I've made for my frame. Saved my BB shell from a nasty rock hit.
    Ride

  172. #2572
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    In answer about the the 170mm fork, we ride mostly central texas jank gnar. Dropping 280ft is the biggest sustained descent that we have... it's wonderful on those .
    The rugged, tight, twisty trails and climbs not so much.
    I figure I'll run it 170mm on trips to destinations with lift access or fire road climbs to sustained descents.
    Well, preferably shuttled rides from the top of sustained descents, but I don't think it would bother me if I was just climbing fire road.
    I'm still running it in the high position. I felt like the low position was more of a suspension adjustment then a geo adjustment. It made the bikes rear suspension noticeably more progressive. I'm running a Meg Neg air can which adds a significant amount of progression at the end of the stroke, so I didn't need that compounded by the additional progression from the low setting.
    I'll likely put the fork back to 160mm for our local trails.
    Last edited by dimitrin; 15 Hours Ago at 08:21 PM.

  173. #2573
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    Pee-yellow on something that moves is never a good thing...

    Santa Cruz Megatower-standard.jpg
    IMTB

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