One token in can is bottom out city unless a lightweight I guess. I was running up to 260psi and still bottoming occasionally. Went to 2 tokens and little less pressure definitely better. Settled on 2.5 tokens (240psi) at 210-214lbs rider weight and feels pretty good to me and still use all travel when riding hard with some hits. No low speed compression (unless climbing) for me since takes away the small bump too much especially with running higher pressures. Debonair/bigger negative chambers cans like higher air pressures to perform best I noticed or else will blow thru travel way too easily. Noticed with new Lyrik fork as well with having to run 130 psi, two tokens with 2-3 clicks LSC to control dive some and 1-2 clicks HSC for the hits.
I think I'm like you, 2.5 tokens (1xGnar Dog) is probably spot on for me. I will try one next week. I prefer to keep the LSC as light as possible, enough to make it pedal friendly. For cornering and weight shift support I think it's best to let the spring do most of the heavy lifting here. LSC is the icing on the cake to give the pedalling some polish. I'm shockwizzing at the moment and even though I'm well above the Santa Cruz recommended psi and I have an additional token installed, ShockWiz is asking for more volume spacer. Interesting. Loving the bike though.
Mix John, yes I equalise the negative spring a few times during my shock inflation and I'm also in Low position. I don't see any reason to run in the Hight position. Interesting that you are running a lot of LSC. My V1 HighTower had a Fox X2 and I could use the HSC to help out on the bigger inputs, without this option on the Super Deluxe Ulitmate, I'm looking at the spring and tokens to tune my end stroke performance.
Seems like some guys are running pressures higher than the Santa Cruz recommendation and some aren't. Interesting.
Does anyone else find the SC recommended air pressure setting to be too light? I'm 78kg (172lb) and I'm currently running 190psi in the shock with one added volume spacer. SC would recommend I run about 177psi for my weight. I'm still bottoming pretty hard and sitting at about 31-32% sag. Has anyone tried running 3 volume spacers?
When I rode a HTv2 at a SC demo day, they set it 20psi over body weight and it felt really good. I don't know how many tokens they had in it, but I suspect it was whatever the stock amount is.
When I rode a HTv2 at a SC demo day, they set it 20psi over body weight and it felt really good. I don't know how many tokens they had in it, but I suspect it was whatever the stock amount is.
I'm also running ~20 psi over riding weight. But continue to bottom out, ~30-33% sag right at the recommended. will need to order and install some spacers, also thinking megneg
I'm 220lbs and running approximately 210psi and no bottom out at all. Even after riding few fast and chunky Tahoe trails with a few small to medium sized hits.
I know this is not helpful to people having shock issues, but here's a shot of my Superdeluxe just shy of bottom out after a fast, rocky technical descent that ends with a pretty good size drop (with the same settings I posted earlier):
Can anyone tell me exactly what it means to cycle a shock every 50 psi?
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It means that as you inflate the shock (assuming it’s on the bike), make sure you add air a bit at a time and then jump on the bike to compress the shock past about 50% travel. This is done to ensure that the positive and negative air chambers equalise, you get the correct final pressure and that the shock behaves properly when ridden.
It means that as you inflate the shock (assuming it’s on the bike), make sure you add air a bit at a time and then jump on the bike to compress the shock past about 50% travel. This is done to ensure that the positive and negative air chambers equalise, you get the correct final pressure and that the shock behaves properly when ridden.
Nothing like Glorieta! NFH, Segment on Strava called Rocky DH. At the end there's a slanted boulder you can launch, get 4 feet of air at speed. For me, that's a good size drop. Going to hit Otero, 3 bottles today. That'll be a better test.
Finally got my frame and built it up with the spec I want. Need to weigh it but it's not easy by myself in my spare room, will hang on for a spare pare of hands. It's certainly not as light as my v1 Bronson but I've gone light where possible.
Finally got my frame and built it up with the spec I want. Need to weigh it but it's not easy by myself in my spare room, will hang on for a spare pare of hands. It's certainly not as light as my v1 Bronson but I've gone light where possible.
Huh! Now I kinda want the Juliana frame and just cover the name with custom Santa Cruz decals from NLDesigns! I like that red! Looks almost like the OG Sriracha red!
Finally got my frame and built it up with the spec I want. Need to weigh it but it's not easy by myself in my spare room, will hang on for a spare pare of hands. It's certainly not as light as my v1 Bronson but I've gone light where possible.
Just put Invisiframe on my wife's Maverick and I really like the color. I would say the best name for it is "brick" red. Will be built for this weekend and then I can put together my new HT2!
I tested the HT2 in high and low mode a little more - didnt see much about that, but in high mode its definitely more "poppy" and I bottom out relatively easily.
In low mode its "bottomless" and i havent managed to bottom it out yet. Feels more like a truck.
I know its what it's supposed to do, but I've not seen someone actually say it. On the HT1 the difference was more in the geo than in the suspension kinematic changes. When I hopped on the HT2 after swapping from high to low I thought it was strange: no difference felt in geo or while pedaling, climbing. I only saw the difference when I finally went downhill. Pretty cool.
But also: if you're bottoming out and can't find the right pressure, double-check if you're in high or low mode ;-) I'm 175lbs and in low mode it'd take a fairly harsh landing to bottom out at 170psi, 1 reducer no megneg
Please does anyone knows what size is Silverado saddle supplied at HT2 or TB4 frame size M?
They have size "narow - small" which is 133-135 mm wide mm and then size Medium which is 142mm.
Which one puts Santa Cruz on their bikes size M ?
I tested the HT2 in high and low mode a little more - didnt see much about that, but in high mode its definitely more "poppy" and I bottom out relatively easily.
In low mode its "bottomless" and i havent managed to bottom it out yet. Feels more like a truck.
I know its what it's supposed to do, but I've not seen someone actually say it. On the HT1 the difference was more in the geo than in the suspension kinematic changes. When I hopped on the HT2 after swapping from high to low I thought it was strange: no difference felt in geo or while pedaling, climbing. I only saw the difference when I finally went downhill. Pretty cool.
But also: if you're bottoming out and can't find the right pressure, double-check if you're in high or low mode ;-) I'm 175lbs and in low mode it'd take a fairly harsh landing to bottom out at 170psi, 1 reducer no megneg
I've been meaning to post some updates, and this is mostly in-line with my thoughts.
I was getting tons of pedal strikes in the low position, so I figured I'd give the high position a try. I felt a very notable change in the liveliness of the ride immediately. "Poppy" is a good description. I also noticed a very distinct change to a more linear curve on the rear. I was bottoming out on drops even as small as a couple of feet with the rear at 180psi (I'm 175, plus gear). I increased to 185psi and still was bottoming out with sag right at about 30%. Since I prefer the more spry and poppy feeling, but ride aggressively, I've been trying to keep it in high and work on the super deluxe tune.
Right now I'm about 3 tokens (max) in the super deluxe select+ and 185psi. I have not purchased/installed the meg-neg. I have had a handful of days riding in this config and things are going smoothly. Haven't had anymore noticeable bottom outs, though I think I may have kissed it a time or two.
I may try the meg-neg and remove a token or two just to see how much more I can tweak it. The meg-neg should open up the ability to fine tune a bit more.
Please does anyone knows what size is Silverado saddle supplied at HT2 or TB4 frame size M?
They have size "narow - small" which is 133-135 mm wide mm and then size Medium which is 142mm.
Which one puts Santa Cruz on their bikes size M ?
I have to imagine the Small; that's what came with my XXL Tallboy. You can always email SC.
Random question - for those who built the bike themselves; what is the narrow, neoprene tube used for? I had a 13" neoprene tube included in both my wife's and my Maverick/HT2 boxes and I have no idea what it's for. Thanks.
Random question - for those who built the bike themselves; what is the narrow, neoprene tube used for? I had a 13" neoprene tube included in both my wife's and my Maverick/HT2 boxes and I have no idea what it's for. Thanks.
I have no clue! the only thing I could think of is to cover the cables around the shock area, but I haven't used that... it's there inside the SC pouch that came with the frame.
Random question - for those who built the bike themselves; what is the narrow, neoprene tube used for? I had a 13" neoprene tube included in both my wife's and my Maverick/HT2 boxes and I have no idea what it's for. Thanks.
The previous Santa Cruz bikes had a bigger opening to insert the cables thru and the foam tube was able to be put down there to help with cable rattle. With the Hightower and its small openings this isn't possible and I guess they just haven't updated what you get with the frame.
The previous Santa Cruz bikes had a bigger opening to insert the cables thru and the foam tube was able to be put down there to help with cable rattle. With the Hightower and its small openings this isn't possible and I guess they just haven't updated what you get with the frame.
how about dropper cable inside the seat tube? given the small size of the foam tube they provide and your comment I guess this could be it.
I've been meaning to post some updates, and this is mostly in-line with my thoughts.
I was getting tons of pedal strikes in the low position, so I figured I'd give the high position a try. I felt a very notable change in the liveliness of the ride immediately. "Poppy" is a good description. I also noticed a very distinct change to a more linear curve on the rear. I was bottoming out on drops even as small as a couple of feet with the rear at 180psi (I'm 175, plus gear). I increased to 185psi and still was bottoming out with sag right at about 30%. Since I prefer the more spry and poppy feeling, but ride aggressively, I've been trying to keep it in high and work on the super deluxe tune.
Right now I'm about 3 tokens (max) in the super deluxe select+ and 185psi. I have not purchased/installed the meg-neg. I have had a handful of days riding in this config and things are going smoothly. Haven't had anymore noticeable bottom outs, though I think I may have kissed it a time or two.
I may try the meg-neg and remove a token or two just to see how much more I can tweak it. The meg-neg should open up the ability to fine tune a bit more.
All good points and indeed sometimes i'd be happy to just keep it in high, when the terrain isnt all that challenging, without bottoming out too much. I've to try with the max amount of spacers as well but I highly suspect a megneg is needed to achieve what we want in high
Random question - for those who built the bike themselves; what is the narrow, neoprene tube used for? I had a 13" neoprene tube included in both my wife's and my Maverick/HT2 boxes and I have no idea what it's for. Thanks.
It is to install on the cables in the rear triangle to stop them rattling.
How does the 2020 Hightower handle bike parks? Is 140mm enough to not die if I case a medium to big jump? I demoed a megatower and it was insanely forgiving but I don't think I could ride it as an everyday bike.
How does the 2020 Hightower handle bike parks? Is 140mm enough to not die if I case a medium to big jump? I demoed a megatower and it was insanely forgiving but I don't think I could ride it as an everyday bike.
Personally, I think it's perfectly fine. Really just depends on personal perspective and *how* you case the jumps. The HTv2 is like the livelier, more playful, slightly less forgiving Megatower. I've come up short on a few bigger TT's and it's been smooth to flat, and that's set in the high position. Low would handle it even better.
Aha! I even RTFM'd and didn't see that. Good to know; sound like cut it in 2 and slide in. Thanks!
Used the tube last night; about 4" per side as it gets difficult to stuff in past the seat stay pinch (i.e., where tire curve is). Quiet as a church mouse. Thanks for the tip @rickdraper!
6 pages in and no one has pulled the spacer from the shock to see if we can long shock this thing? Bueller? Anyone tried it, or heard any reliable intel??
How does the 2020 Hightower handle bike parks? Is 140mm enough to not die if I case a medium to big jump? I demoed a megatower and it was insanely forgiving but I don't think I could ride it as an everyday bike.
I did my demo on a singletrack/jump trail with up to 2 bike length doubles, so not huge but big enough to wreck yourself on, and it does great. I walked back up and hit each section 3 times. Stable, nice amount of travel to be fun, tossable but forgiving. Now, it wouldn't be an ideal Whistler A line bike but for moderate sized stuff, it'd be ideal.
6 pages in and no one has pulled the spacer from the shock to see if we can long shock this thing? Bueller? Anyone tried it, or heard any reliable intel??
6 pages in and no one has pulled the spacer from the shock to see if we can long shock this thing? Bueller? Anyone tried it, or heard any reliable intel??
Why not just deflate your shock and check the clearances for yourself? 5 minute job that will answer the question. It's only another 5mm of travel so I'm thinking there should be enough clearance to run safely.
Hey just wondering if anyone has thrown a DVO Topaz in the back? Maybe long-shocking it with the 210x55?
Looking back a few weeks in the thread I can attest to the video upgrading the dt-swiss 370 to 350-style ratchet. I'm using a roval traverse wheelset from a 2018 enduro, which has 370 internals, and plopped in the 240/350 drive ring w/54t ratchet and the back hub now has great engagement.
In the meantime, I'm trying to source a 150mm Lyric Ultimate in Black.
Are these impossible to locate online? I can only find either Red or 160mm.
I've done the same as you, except getting the Lyric through the LBS. Ordered a few weeks ago, frame arrived 10 days ago, and latest update on fork is "a few more weeks". So there must be an availability issue.
I've done the same as you, except getting the Lyric through the LBS. Ordered a few weeks ago, frame arrived 10 days ago, and latest update on fork is "a few more weeks". So there must be an availability issue.
Did you order the Ultimate?
Added a token to the Super Deluxe (2 total now). Was able to drop PSI to 195 from 200 with same amount of travel, able to back off LSC to 3 from open. Close to bottom out on big hits, but a couple of mm left to spare.
I weigh 190-195 (depending on how much water I have on me).
I went with the Fox 36 fit4 150mm. I've always been a Fox guy, but am impressed with the Super Deluxe. Hit a double black section of trail yesterday with some nice drops and rollers. Never had the nerve to ride this section with my old bike (FEX) but the HT2 was great, really capable and climbs just as well as the FEX. Cornering with the new geo is so much fun, took second on Strava on a .2 mile section called Baby Berms.
Added a token to the Super Deluxe (2 total now). Was able to drop PSI to 195 from 200 with same amount of travel, able to back off LSC to 3 from open. Close to bottom out on big hits, but a couple of mm left to spare.
I weigh 190-195 (depending on how much water I have on me).
I went with the Fox 36 fit4 150mm. I've always been a Fox guy, but am impressed with the Super Deluxe. Hit a double black section of trail yesterday with some nice drops and rollers. Never had the nerve to ride this section with my old bike (FEX) but the HT2 was great, really capable and climbs just as well as the FEX. Cornering with the new geo is so much fun, took second on Strava on a .2 mile section called Baby Berms.
how much LSC were you using before adding the token? I’m gonna need to add some tokens since I’m already running 20psi over recommended and using full travel pretty much every ride!
XL or XXL? 6.3 feet(191.5 cm) tall, 35.8 inches(91 cm) inseam, ape index 0. I have to order online, no possibility for demo ride.
Im exactly the same height. Not sure on inseam, but I do have pretty long legs and arms for my height. Im on an XL and it feels perfect. I havnt tried an XXL though.
I'm interesting in knowing from the people who say that they are routinely bottoming out the HTV2. How are you doing this? Huck to flats? Extremely fast and chunky trails? I'm 220lbs (and running rear shock at 210-215psi) and ride fairly aggressively but admittedly, I don't spend alot of time in the air (small jumps only). I've yet to feel it bottom out so curious how other people are doing this?
One more question. What are you all running your rear rebound at? Closer to full fast or closer to full slow? I've been playing around with this and thinking I might prefer the rebound on the faster side of things.
Strange, I don't see a black option (Ultimate, 42mm, 150mm, RC2)
They're all Red, either from Sram or QBP.
(I'm a dealer)
Sram is projecting new product in 11/12/19-Red
Don't know if your dealer has a b2b QBP account, but they have 2 at their Minnesota warehouse and 2 at their Nevada warehouse
All Red.
Looks like gloss black is either 160mm or 170mm ( w/42 offset)
Same projected date for Sram, QBP has a few 16omm black Ultimates at a few warehouses.
If you're set on black, an airshaft will cost you $42... and time (if you install it yourself) or time and maybe money if the LBS does it.
If they're a proper LBS, they shouldn't charge you for labor. I wouldn't.
I'm in Oz. I assume our stuff starts it journey from overseas, dunno where though. I simply had a chat with my LBS (who are legends), and we worked out a few parts to order, and I left it in their hands. Had discussed getting a 160, but decided to start with 150 and then look at the airshaft change later if desired, so I guess could always do the reverse. But not in a huge rush, so might just wait it out a little longer.
Anybody run the HTV2 in 27.5+ mode yet? Emailed SC and they suggested 2.8" tires with the frame in High mode and running the fork in 160mm mode.
Yes, som posts down you can see my alloy frame. I had week 45 as estimated delivery and I had it on Tuesday that week. Too bad I am in the opposite situation as you: frame but no gear. Planning to wait to black Friday with my purchases.
XL or XXL? 6.3 feet(191.5 cm) tall, 35.8 inches(91 cm) inseam, ape index 0. I have to order online, no possibility for demo ride.
I am 6'0 and I settled on an XL Hightower v2 C . I switched the 50mm raceface stem to a 35mm Renthal Apex stem. I did not know bikes could feel this supple over chatter while climbing amazingly well.
31.1 LBS in size XL. (with carbon wheels, Apex stem, Renthal bar and 165mm cranks)
I am 6'0 and I settled on an XL Hightower v2 C . I switched the 50mm raceface stem to a 35mm Renthal Apex stem. I did not know bikes could feel this supple over chatter while climbing amazingly well.
31.1 LBS in size XL. (with carbon wheels, Apex stem, Renthal bar and 165mm cranks)
I picked up a blue L from Mike (Suck Crick) a month ago. Cool to see more of these in Chatt!
I'm interesting in knowing from the people who say that they are routinely bottoming out the HTV2. How are you doing this? Huck to flats? Extremely fast and chunky trails? I'm 220lbs (and running rear shock at 210-215psi) and ride fairly aggressively but admittedly, I don't spend alot of time in the air (small jumps only). I've yet to feel it bottom out so curious how other people are doing this?
One more question. What are you all running your rear rebound at? Closer to full fast or closer to full slow? I've been playing around with this and thinking I might prefer the rebound on the faster side of things.
I'm 175 and had the ultimate select+ at 175 and was bottoming out like crazy in the "high" position. The low positions felt more progressive and didn't seem like an issue. High feels way more linear and was bottoming regularly on 2'-4' drops, not really to flat though some had less steep landings. Also same issue on some DH jump trails.
I run rebound differently depending on the trail. Slower on jump/DH and faster when I want more pop trail riding. Just depends.
Right now I'm still running high position with select+ maxed out at 3 tokens and 180psi. Feels okay for the most part, but it's definitely on the firm side. Might try meg-neg and remove 1-1.5 token, see what happens.
I am 6'0 and I settled on an XL Hightower v2 C . I switched the 50mm raceface stem to a 35mm Renthal Apex stem. I did not know bikes could feel this supple over chatter while climbing amazingly well.
31.1 LBS in size XL. (with carbon wheels, Apex stem, Renthal bar and 165mm cranks)
Did you consider a large? I'm a bit over 6 ft. and was hesitant to order an XL but the guys at the shop insisted XL was the right size.
Did you consider a large? I'm a bit over 6 ft. and was hesitant to order an XL but the guys at the shop insisted XL was the right size.
FWIW I'm 6' and went with the large. To be fair, I've had some back injuries and enough years under gravity that I may be a bit less than 6' now (I think a one reading in recent years was 5'11-1/2". Haha.). I didn't try the XL because the L fit right in with the layout of my large Honzo which feels perfect.
Has anyone replaced the brakes (SRAM Code) out of the hightower? if you have how easy it is? pics?. I am done with the lack of modulation with this brakes.
Has anyone replaced the brakes (SRAM Code) out of the hightower? if you have how easy it is? pics?. I am done with the lack of modulation with this brakes.
as easy as it gets, the frame has internal carbon routing channels, remove the hose from the lever and pull from the caliper side, to install your new brake go the other way and start at the caliper and feed the hose, don’t forget to put the rubber grommet after you pass the hose through the rear triangle and from a few posts above use the foam tube imto wrap the hose inside the hear triangle
as easy as it gets, the frame has internal carbon routing channels, remove the hose from the lever and pull from the caliper side, to install your new brake go the other way and start at the caliper and feed the hose, don’t forget to put the rubber grommet after you pass the hose through the rear triangle and from a few posts above use the foam tube imto wrap the hose inside the hear triangle
what are you thinking to install?
I replaced them with Magura MT7's which are amazing in my opinion. Easy process!
I also just added the XC versions of Cushcore tire inserts. Full report coming.
Did you consider a large? I'm a bit over 6 ft. and was hesitant to order an XL but the guys at the shop insisted XL was the right size.
I'm approximately 6’1" and ending up going with a Large. The XL felt bigger, longer, and less playful. The Large with 40mm rise bars makes this bike so fun and playful.
In the meantime, I'm trying to source a 150mm Lyric Ultimate in Black.
Are these impossible to locate online? I can only find either Red or 160mm.
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I had to get the 160 Lyrik 42mm in black and change travel shaft to 150 since only red available as well. Fortunately for me, the seller swapped added 150 shaft and swapped it out for same price as 160 fork. The Lyrik Ultimate replaced a 16’ Pike RCT3 w/Vorsprung tune and Luftkappe from former Hightower and Lyrik was noticeably better first ride. More stable in the rough and junk at speed, better small bump with nice feel throughout travel. FWIW, I will likely go 160 shaft next summer when hitting the longer, rowdier descents again. Right now 150 perfect on it for mixed trail riding with lots of pedaling and climbing.
quick help needed, if you guys don't mind.
Seriously considering moving from my HT LT to an HT2, but having difficulty on the sizing. reviews and the geo numbers do seem to show that my L HT LT is equivalent to the M HT2, but the sizing chart shows that my 5'10" (average build) should be on a L. Anyone here who's about my size on a M or L?
I live in a place where the longer travel bikes are popular, so sitting on one to try is difficult, at best.
quick help needed, if you guys don't mind.
Seriously considering moving from my HT LT to an HT2, but having difficulty on the sizing. reviews and the geo numbers do seem to show that my L HT LT is equivalent to the M HT2, but the sizing chart shows that my 5'10" (average build) should be on a L. Anyone here who's about my size on a M or L?
I live in a place where the longer travel bikes are popular, so sitting on one to try is difficult, at best.
cheers!
I would go with the large. Remember the reach is only one part of the equation. The seat angle is steeper and the effective top tube is similar between a L HTLT and L HT2. So the bars should be at a similar distance from you seated as on your HTLT but standing will feel more roomy.
I just built a large Megatower to replace a large 2017 Bronson. Thought it would be huge, but it feels really similar to be honest. Fit is perfect for me, corners intuitively and very easy to balance the bike. I’m 6’1”, as always it’s best to test ride, I didn’t have that option so trusted the sizing chart and it was bang on for me!
Originally Posted by sidelined
quick help needed, if you guys don't mind.
Seriously considering moving from my HT LT to an HT2, but having difficulty on the sizing. reviews and the geo numbers do seem to show that my L HT LT is equivalent to the M HT2, but the sizing chart shows that my 5'10" (average build) should be on a L. Anyone here who's about my size on a M or L?
I live in a place where the longer travel bikes are popular, so sitting on one to try is difficult, at best.
This. ETT will be similar to your current bike, and this is one dimension that can really make a bike feel to long or short.
Originally Posted by bronxbomber252
I would go with the large. Remember the reach is only one part of the equation. The seat angle is steeper and the effective top tube is similar between a L HTLT and L HT2. So the bars should be at a similar distance from you seated as on your HTLT but standing will feel more roomy.
quick help needed, if you guys don't mind.
Seriously considering moving from my HT LT to an HT2, but having difficulty on the sizing. reviews and the geo numbers do seem to show that my L HT LT is equivalent to the M HT2, but the sizing chart shows that my 5'10" (average build) should be on a L. Anyone here who's about my size on a M or L?
I live in a place where the longer travel bikes are popular, so sitting on one to try is difficult, at best.
cheers!
Try to find a similar fitting bike if possible (megatower maybe?) if you can but really I'm about the same height and have no regrets going size large, and I think most posters around the 5'9"-5'10" range that I have read before went with the large and also thought the fit was great. My previous bike (different brand, not modern geo) was a medium and I always felt it was on the small side, I can't see going with a medium hightower at your height.
quick help needed, if you guys don't mind.
Seriously considering moving from my HT LT to an HT2, but having difficulty on the sizing. reviews and the geo numbers do seem to show that my L HT LT is equivalent to the M HT2, but the sizing chart shows that my 5'10" (average build) should be on a L. Anyone here who's about my size on a M or L?
I live in a place where the longer travel bikes are popular, so sitting on one to try is difficult, at best.
cheers!
5’5” on a M, can’t think how you would ride a M being 5’10”. I’d go L, was also between sizes and glad I went up!
Thanks for the feedback! Pretty confident now about still sticking to a L whenever I get a Santa Cruz. Cheers!
I'm 5.11 - current ride's a 2017 TB, XL. Got a shorter stem and slid the seat up a hair. Rented a 2018 HTLT in Squamish, XL - loved it. Demo'd a 2020 TB and found the XL to be perfect.
Will be looking at an XL HT2.
2019 Forbidden Druid (in the works)
2019 Salsa Cutthroat Rival 1
2017 Santa Cruz TB3 CS
Yeah. Or a fit 4. I prefer fox and have all the tools to service fox shocks.
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I current run a fox 34 on mine, but gotta replace it with either 36 or Lyrik. I was tempted to go with Lyrik because supposedly its as good as the 36 grip 2 but with better small bump compliance but really i'd have to test both side by side (which will never happen ;-)
Got all 3 of my girls out on the trail today. Still riding in high position but want to try low soon. Using 95% of travel in the front and the rear but have yet to bottom out.
I've heard from a few sources the HT2 is pretty nice with a 160 up front. Maybe try it before switching out the damper rods?
I may actually change my 150 to 160 when I do the 50 hour which is rapidly approaching.
Yeah, the more I think about it, thats the direction I will probably take.
Ride it 160mm and if I decide I dont like it, I can swap it during maintenance.
Correct me if I am wrong, but if i run it in the high position with a 160mm, wouldnt that return the hta/sta close to the 'original' geometry as if it had the 150mm?
Correct me if I am wrong, but if i run it in the high position with a 160mm, wouldnt that return the hta/sta close to the 'original' geometry as if it had the 150mm?
Yeah, the more I think about it, thats the direction I will probably take.
Ride it 160mm and if I decide I dont like it, I can swap it during maintenance.
Correct me if I am wrong, but if i run it in the high position with a 160mm, wouldnt that return the hta/sta close to the 'original' geometry as if it had the 150mm?
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Yeah, within a non-discernible difference in the HTA/STA. I don't know the exact final, but I'd assume BB will be higher than in "low" mode. Honestly not a bad thing. I switched to high mode due to the crazy amount I was pedal striking in low. Much better now.
Yeah, within a non-discernible difference in the HTA/STA. I don't know the exact final, but I'd assume BB will be higher than in "low" mode. Honestly not a bad thing. I switched to high mode due to the crazy amount I was pedal striking in low. Much better now.
I am using a 160mm ultimate in low. No problem with pedal striking. I did come from a bike with a lower bottom bracket though. Santa Cruz recommends the low setting, i'd leave it there.
I am using a 160mm ultimate in low. No problem with pedal striking. I did come from a bike with a lower bottom bracket though. Santa Cruz recommends the low setting, i'd leave it there.
They recommend low for what specifically? when using a 160mm? What's the reasoning?
I'd see that more as personal preference, no? That would slacken the HTA/STA beyond the normal low at 150mm.
SC recommends trying both, but starting in low and moving to high if pedal strikes are an issue
That I'm aware of, which is why I'm running High position. Lots of techy climbs here in the southeast and it makes a huge difference. The bike also has a much more poppy and playful feel to it in High. I'll flip it to Low for enduro's or appropriate shuttle days.
I was getting the impression that previous comment that was specific to running 160. In my conversations with Santa Cruz, they'd never mentioned anything of that nature. I was wondering if I was missing something.
That I'm aware of, which is why I'm running High position. Lots of techy climbs here in the southeast and it makes a huge difference. The bike also has a much more poppy and playful feel to it in High. I'll flip it to Low for enduro's or appropriate shuttle days.
I was getting the impression that previous comment that was specific to running 160. In my conversations with Santa Cruz, they'd never mentioned anything of that nature. I was wondering if I was missing something.
yep same! low => bigger downhilling days ; high => easier trails because its more fun!
Anyone having issues with the Hightower cable routing and new XTR 1x setup? I am having an issue with the amount of housing at the rear derailer. I need there to be a little bit of a bow there to get best shifting. Problem is that housing gets pulled back into the frame after some riding. I have lengthened the housing but I still get the issue. Now I have a zip tie with some glue on it to keep the housing from sucking back into the frame. Anyone else having the issue?? Seems like an oversite on this dentist build.
I can't wait till they put condos here. Said no one ever.
Anyone having issues with the Hightower cable routing and new XTR 1x setup? I am having an issue with the amount of housing at the rear derailer. I need there to be a little bit of a bow there to get best shifting. Problem is that housing gets pulled back into the frame after some riding. I have lengthened the housing but I still get the issue. Now I have a zip tie with some glue on it to keep the housing from sucking back into the frame. Anyone else having the issue?? Seems like an oversite on this dentist build.
I noticed this in setup too (XT RD; XTR crank). I am on a ShimEagle cassette setup FWIW, and the shifting is flawless, but don't have sufficient time on it. I will say that the bow is super minimal on mine, so it took a while to get it to seat in the cap properly, but once that worked, it seems to be working fine. Maybe check that the hanger is well-aligned? Even on new bikes, they can be a little off axis and I notice the issue much more on 12sp than 10 or 11sp.
Its fairly weighty, i'll try get it on some scales at the weekend. I'm guessing about 33lbs, maybe less. I'll just have to get fitter.
Fox front and Rear, Mavic XA Elite wheels, Hope 4 pot brakes, Transfer dropper, XTR 11 speed and some dumpy GX cranks.
Note: I'm 5ft10, its a large frame as per SC's reccomendations.
The off-the-peg large builds come with a 170mm travel dropper. I rode a Large demo with a 170mm dropper, and it was a touch too tall - fine for a short test. The presumption was that chaning to a 150mm dropper would be fine.
Turns out it wasn't. I've eventually had to change to a 125mm dropper (Fox transfer) with just a few mm of extension above the seat clamp. I am definitely 5ft 10, before you ask!
Just beware if you are buying an off the peg build and on the shorter side of their reccomendations. FWIW theres no way I would be on a medium, large is deinitely right for me.
Secondlly - I think there are also some key differences in the way the alloy frame is put together, the bottom of the seat tube does not allow a dropper post to be inserted as far as you might think, and the cable routing seriously limits the operation too.
FWIW I think a RS Reverb with its centre mounted hose would be easier to push lower in the seat tube than most cable droppers with the cable offset to one side (as per Fox Transfer).
Make sure you try before you buy, and expect to have to do some experimentation with post sizes, types, and insertion.
Forgot to add - again I think another difference with the alloy frame, there is very limited room around the shock shaft - it is next to impossible to measure the sag o-ring. Can't even get a little finger in there, let alone any measuring device. I have just had to guess.
Its fairly weighty, i'll try get it on some scales at the weekend. I'm guessing about 33lbs, maybe less. I'll just have to get fitter.
Fox front and Rear, Mavic XA Elite wheels, Hope 4 pot brakes, Transfer dropper, XTR 11 speed and some dumpy GX cranks.
Note: I'm 5ft10, its a large frame as per SC's reccomendations.
The off-the-peg large builds come with a 170mm travel dropper. I rode a Large demo with a 170mm dropper, and it was a touch too tall - fine for a short test. The presumption was that chaning to a 150mm dropper would be fine.
Turns out it wasn't. I've eventually had to change to a 125mm dropper (Fox transfer) with just a few mm of extension above the seat clamp. I am definitely 5ft 10, before you ask!
Just beware if you are buying an off the peg build and on the shorter side of their reccomendations. FWIW theres no way I would be on a medium, large is deinitely right for me.
Secondlly - I think there are also some key differences in the way the alloy frame is put together, the bottom of the seat tube does not allow a dropper post to be inserted as far as you might think, and the cable routing seriously limits the operation too.
FWIW I think a RS Reverb with its centre mounted hose would be easier to push lower in the seat tube than most cable droppers with the cable offset to one side (as per Fox Transfer).
Make sure you try before you buy, and expect to have to do some experimentation with post sizes, types, and insertion.
Forgot to add - again I think another difference with the alloy frame, there is very limited room around the shock shaft - it is next to impossible to measure the sag o-ring. Can't even get a little finger in there, let alone any measuring device. I have just had to guess.
How deep is the maximum insertion of the seat post? I calculated that I could use a 180 one up post, but a bit worried now. Edit: A bit strange that you almost had to slam a 125 post. I am also about 5 10 and on my last bike I had about 70 mm post showing with a 170mm dropper. That bike had 405mm seat tube length. The large Hightower has 430 according to geometry chart.
Not frames, but Chris King has a really nice deal that any wheelset comes with a free BB or headset. I bought my Reserve 30's from King and pimped out my frame in the process.
Note: I'm 5ft10, its a large frame as per SC's reccomendations.
The presumption was that chaning to a 150mm dropper would be fine.
Turns out it wasn't. I've eventually had to change to a 125mm dropper (Fox transfer) with just a few mm of extension above the seat clamp. I am definitely 5ft 10, before you ask!
Secondlly - I think there are also some key differences in the way the alloy frame is put together, the bottom of the seat tube does not allow a dropper post to be inserted as far as you might think, and the cable routing seriously limits the operation too.
Forgot to add - again I think another difference with the alloy frame, there is very limited room around the shock shaft - it is next to impossible to measure the sag o-ring. Can't even get a little finger in there, let alone any measuring device. I have just had to guess.
Regarding sizing and post, at 5"11 i run a large C frame (i could deal with a medium but large is definitely right), and a 150mm transfer post, so the alloy might definitely have an issue there. I wouldn't want a 125mm post! In fact, I want to swap the 150 for a 175mm later...
Regarding the shock, its about the same on the C frame. its hard to see the o-ring, but if you try hard enough you'll see it lol. I think its the same on the alloy frame. Swapping the frame from H to L and vice versa without taking everything apart is also "fun" (if you get it JUST RIGHT the little flip switch will fall off, but you can't just push it because the frame is in the way)
Has anybody found any bungs that fit the frame to blank off the internal routing? I need to cover up the rear derailleur holes and in the swing arm as a minimum.
Has anybody found any bungs that fit the frame to blank off the internal routing? I need to cover up the rear derailleur holes and in the swing arm as a minimum.
I’m using the Yeti one, not pergect fit but works! I didn’t find any replacement for the one where the cable goes into the rear triangle so I left the original one!
Has anybody found any bungs that fit the frame to blank off the internal routing? I need to cover up the rear derailleur holes and in the swing arm as a minimum.
I just use 3m mastic and roll a small cut; make it as round as I can and sort of make a tail with it, like a tadpole.
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Hey just got a great Deal on the Hightower V2 X01. 5900 instead of 7399 Euros!!
Just want to know if anyone got the complete and can tell me if they got the 2020 reverb or the old one??
Hey just got a great Deal on the Hightower V2 X01. 5900 instead of 7399 Euros!!
Just want to know if anyone got the complete and can tell me if they got the 2020 reverb or the old one??
It comes with the new 2020 Reverb... and it is a big, and noticeable, improvement over the previous Reverb :-)
I also got the old one when i tested the HT2 in July (I didnt buy it though, i bought a frame). Good news though, the old one .. was already sticking for me lol. I think they had it for 7 days total (SC HQ).
Scratched the side of my blue Hightower v2 on the top tube pretty bad. Does anyone have a link to some kind of touch up pen/paint that is similar to that blue color? I got the color code from calling Santa Cruz but no auto shops/paint shops in my area can match it.
Only thing I dont trust it carbon bars and cranks. First time for me with my X01 hightower V2 coming. Can you trust those bars and cranks? Also I really need to get torque wrechn now if want to change anything in the cockpit...
Only thing I dont trust it carbon bars and cranks. First time for me with my X01 hightower V2 coming. Can you trust those bars and cranks? Also I really need to get torque wrechn now if want to change anything in the cockpit...
I put 7150km (4445 miles) on my carbon RF Next G4 cranks, moved them from my Scott Spark to my Stumpjumper and since sold them. Absolutely no problems.
So far i Have 1560 km on the SRAM carbon cranks and carbon bars that came on the HT2.
Never had any issues with Renthal carbon bars with over 5000km on them.
Of course I am not beating my bikes up and I have heard of people breaking carbon cranks and bars.
Scratched the side of my blue Hightower v2 on the top tube pretty bad. Does anyone have a link to some kind of touch up pen/paint that is similar to that blue color? I got the color code from calling Santa Cruz but no auto shops/paint shops in my area can match it.
Sounds like a long shot. Can you find somewhere to purchase online?
Scratched the side of my blue Hightower v2 on the top tube pretty bad. Does anyone have a link to some kind of touch up pen/paint that is similar to that blue color? I got the color code from calling Santa Cruz but no auto shops/paint shops in my area can match it.
Speaking of dinged up Hightowers - my 4 year old son helped me unbox my HT frame about a month ago. I took it out of the box and placed on a large stool in my garage and less than 10 seconds later my kiddo knocked the frame right on the ground. Got a nice little scratch on the rear seat stay approximately 1 minute after unboxing it.
Couldn't really get mad at my little guy as I shouldn't have put it in a such a precarious spot. Oh well, it's going to get scratched eventually.
Speaking of dinged up Hightowers - my 4 year old son helped me unbox my HT frame about a month ago. I took it out of the box and placed on a large stool in my garage and less than 10 seconds later my kiddo knocked the frame right on the ground. Got a nice little scratch on the rear seat stay approximately 1 minute after unboxing it.
Couldn't really get mad at my little guy as I shouldn't have put it in a such a precarious spot. Oh well, it's going to get scratched eventually.
Depending on how long you keep your bikes, you'll grow to love that scratch.
My wife and I just sent our son and daughter (twins) off to College this year. I find myself remembering and appreciating the oddest memories about my kids.
Well, I've tried for two days to upload a pic of the DBIL on my HT2, and MTBR's archaic interface says a .jpg file is not a valid file. Took a screen shot of the same image, tried that, just keeps failing.
Only thing I dont trust it carbon bars and cranks. First time for me with my X01 hightower V2 coming. Can you trust those bars and cranks? Also I really need to get torque wrechn now if want to change anything in the cockpit...
You should already have a torque wrench.... it’s not just for carbon components.
I trust my carbon stuff more than my aluminum these days. Carbon tends to be slightly overbuild and you can tell.
Very easy to bend aluminum without a torque wrench
Still enamored with the form and function of this bike. Added Megneg and 12 speed XT.
Was looking for the plushness I had with the DPX2 on my last bike. The Super Deluxe stock is good, but not quite as good. Had 2 tokens running 200psi with 4 clicks of LSc. Added the Megneg with 2 bands installed, removed the 2 tokens. 230psi with 4 clicks of LSC, now the bike is dialed, full on hoverbike (which is what I was looking for). Small bump compliance is excellent, good mid support, just a hair short of bottom out on a big jump.
All I have to say about 12 speed XT is that it is Aces!
Only thing I dont trust it carbon bars and cranks. First time for me with my X01 hightower V2 coming. Can you trust those bars and cranks? Also I really need to get torque wrechn now if want to change anything in the cockpit...
Sure you can trust them - it's 2010, they've figured that out...wait, hang on, it's 2019
Never had an issue with either, not sure why you would be concerned given the lack of issues reported if you search around. If you don't wan't carbon bars, get an alu. For the cranks, I simply do not understand why there would be concern at this point in carbon's development.
Local bike shop was shutting down for good which is always sad to see. He was a Santa Cruz dealer and had some amazing pricing on his last days. Fortunately for me he had a 2020 HT CS in medium just asking for me to take it home. After a quick test ride I could not let the deal pass so it's now in my garage. Only one color choice which was sand, I wished it was in the blue. But to be honest the sand color has grown on me and I really like it now.
First ride was a shake down and suspension set-up run. The Lyrik was amazing how it sucked up everything and smooth as butter on the chatter. I was a little challenged with the rear shock as it was bottoming out. I just kept adding air until it quit and it is at roughly 22% sag. Very linear feel, rides high and keeps the rear wheel planted. Bike is a couple pounds heavier than expected, but does not seem to be an issue. I can't huck the front as easily as I can on the Pivot 429 Trail (the other bike I tested), but it literally rolls over everything with ease so not an issue. Can't wait to get in on the rowdy stuff at the bike parks once the snow is gone, I think this is going to be the perfect one bike does it all kind of ride. I do want to swap out the Maxxis tires for the local XC trails to something lighter and faster rolling though, idea is to save the Maxxis for the summer bike park action. Anyone have any suggestions?
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I do want to swap out the Maxxis tires for the local XC trails to something lighter and faster rolling though, idea is to save the Maxxis for the summer bike park action. Anyone have any suggestions?
For "XC" trails, I've been running Ardent/front and Ardent Race/rear on my Tallboy2.
I'm undecided what tires I will run on my HT build. Probably DHF/DHR.
Local bike shop was shutting down for good which is always sad to see. He was a Santa Cruz dealer and had some amazing pricing on his last days. Fortunately for me he had a 2020 HT CS in medium just asking for me to take it home. After a quick test ride I could not let the deal pass so it's now in my garage. Only one color choice which was sand, I wished it was in the blue. But to be honest the sand color has grown on me and I really like it now.
First ride was a shake down and suspension set-up run. The Lyrik was amazing how it sucked up everything and smooth as butter on the chatter. I was a little challenged with the rear shock as it was bottoming out. I just kept adding air until it quit and it is at roughly 22% sag. Very linear feel, rides high and keeps the rear wheel planted. Bike is a couple pounds heavier than expected, but does not seem to be an issue. I can't huck the front as easily as I can on the Pivot 429 Trail (the other bike I tested), but it literally rolls over everything with ease so not an issue. Can't wait to get in on the rowdy stuff at the bike parks once the snow is gone, I think this is going to be the perfect one bike does it all kind of ride. I do want to swap out the Maxxis tires for the local XC trails to something lighter and faster rolling though, idea is to save the Maxxis for the summer bike park action. Anyone have any suggestions?
I’ve been running Dissector front and Rekon back, both 2.4.
quick help needed, if you guys don't mind.
Seriously considering moving from my HT LT to an HT2, but having difficulty on the sizing. reviews and the geo numbers do seem to show that my L HT LT is equivalent to the M HT2, but the sizing chart shows that my 5'10" (average build) should be on a L. Anyone here who's about my size on a M or L?
I live in a place where the longer travel bikes are popular, so sitting on one to try is difficult, at best.
cheers!
5’10” rider who likes all aspects of riding...jumping, DH, backcountry trail riding with lots of climbing and large for me all day. The geo numbers are deceptive as the fit is almist identical to my old large V1 Hightower despite much added length in reach and wheelbase. The steeper seat angle makes seated riding position feels about the same
curious, if i order a few pens (PMS 2153 C / highland blue) how many people would wanna get one?
Me! Chipped paint on end of chainstay while popping off chain without clutch off when first building bike and bad scuff from bike rack and contact with other bike. Paint is fragile for sure, especially compared to past two V1 Hightowers.
I’ve been running Dissector front and Rekon back, both 2.4.
Thatś exactly combo I want to ride as well, just waiting when Dissector will arrive.
May I ask at what terrains / conditions are you riding this combo and what are your impressions from Dissector front and Recon 2,4 back?
Dissector/Rekon 2.4 combo x3. Great light work combo! The Dissector is like a mini DHF up front and I am enjoying the speed out back with the rekon. Just depends on how and where you are riding. If I was in the western half of VA, I would be on minions for sure, but don't sleep on this Dissector. It's a fantastic tire for this type of bike. The HT is shredding on this combo.
Well, I've tried for two days to upload a pic of the DBIL on my HT2, and MTBR's archaic interface says a .jpg file is not a valid file. Took a screen shot of the same image, tried that, just keeps failing.
I'm running a Vault 450. I weigh 175lbs without gear.
Just spent three days putting this setup through the paces. I'm completely in love. dropping back down to the 'lo' position with the 160mm up front seems to be exactly how this bike should have been spec'd to begin with. At least with a short offset fork they spec.
Did a long ride Saturday on tons of technical but playful trail. With the DBIL in the climb position, I felt no degradation going up, and in fact it really handled the techs climbing bits better that the lyric/super deluxe.
While there is less 'pop' (obviously), I would definitely say the bike is still lively and playful, with a much more buttery and confidence inspiring feel. The cornering feels way more natural and predictable and the harshness of the super deluxe is a very welcomed change.
The trails I rode through had loads of southeastern 'slickrock' with some areas of leafy wetness. Combined with tons of chunkier and rooty sections with high speed descents through chunk and boulder drops a plenty in the 2'-3' range, many to flat. I set sag around 27% and never felt any harsh or noticeable bottom outs. Even traversing steep off camber leafy and wet rock slab section, I never once lost traction. Just planted and confident all weekend long. Best damn feeling ride I've ever experienced.
Going into this, I thought the Cane Creek coil set up would be reserved for gravity focused days at the park, racing, etc. and that the air set-up would still remain on the bike for trail rides the majority of the time. Now, I'm not sure when I'll be putting the RockShox set-up back on.
It’s not worth it. I bought a paint pen and touchup bottle and the color is not close. It is way too light. Going to see if you mixing in some navy blue testers enamel will bring it closer to the actual color
Depending on how long you keep your bikes, you'll grow to love that scratch.
My wife and I just sent our son and daughter (twins) off to College this year. I find myself remembering and appreciating the oddest memories about my kids.
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My wife and I have twins too! They graduated from college this past spring. They both went to expensive schools (Pomona and American University) and we didn't get one dime off their tuitions. It was a brutal four years paying for it all. Now that we no longer have bills to pay (they both graduated at the top of their classes and immediately found excellent jobs), its is sort of like getting a HUGE raise! Haha! I could buy a new top shelf bike every month for what we were doing.
Good luck with it all! Twins are an amazing experience, right?
Does anyone here have experience with cutting a reverb hose wihthout bleed? The one that came on my Hightower X01 is way too long. Also it has 175 cranks instead of 170 like it says on the website... but i dont care much about that.
What are the Torquue figures vor SC carbon bar including stem?
Don't drip any fluid out of the lever when detaching it, be very careful of the plunger/lever, it moves very easily when not attached to the hose. Keep the barb pointing up while unscrewing from hose, and at all all times until screwed back in, so gravity helps. Hold the hose firmly (not the end you're cutting off) when cutting it so it doesn't shake around and lose any fluid when cut. Set the return speed dial/screw thinger to the lowest setting to reduce pressure as much as possible.
If you bought the complete bike from a shop I'd be surprised if they wouldn't do that for free or very low price, it's a very quick job if it's something they deal with a lot, and somewhat expected to be done based of how the bike fits. They should leave it long until the bike is fully fitted and customer is happy with all positioning (make sure you don't want to raise the seat any more, put on wider bars, etc).
almost every time i cut a hose i lose some pressure, so, id be ready to rebleed. Sometimes it works out ;P In any case I hope you have a hose cutter, else its really hard not to lose some fluid. ps: IIRC if that hasnt changed the fluid is just 2.5wt oil, not dot, so its not a huge deal to rebleed. its probably fine with 5wt oil. every time ive rebleed it i didnt even really need to pressurize the system and it'd be fine with some bubbles (but of course, i wouldnt recommend leaving them in - its just that sometimes i lose a bit of oil and still put it back in lol), unlike the disc brakes. Do check that the current versions are still that though, or, get the official oil.
Shortened the reverb without bleed. Works just like before. Also like the new code brakes I thought I will never use SRAM again but the new codes have more than enough power. Put on 200 mm rotors. Why SC ships 180 is mystery to me otherwise the xo1 bud is well thought out.
I have 3 rides now on my new HT, finally got in some good fast downhill and jumps. I am still chasing a good suspension set up though. I have the C S version with the RockShox front and rear. First two rides I tried about 35% sag front and rear, felt soft and ran through all the travel. For my last ride I tried 25%. The front fork was a bit harsh on the small chatter but was not using up all the travel. I am at 11 clicks of rebound and running 4 to 8 clicks in on compression. I liked the more compliant ride before the change so I have a feeling 30% sag will be the number I settle on.
The shock however is still bottoming out at 25% sag with 5 compression clicks. Suited up I am 195 pounds so I am thinking I need to add a token or two. Anyone else similar to my weight experiencing this and if so any suggestions on tokens?
I have never had a bike with SRAM brakes always had Shimano XT and I notice I am having to squeeze the Codes pretty hard then they all of a sudden lock up. I have a feeling I need to increase the rotor size to get better modulation or the pad material is heating up too quickly. More experimenting needed.
What I do like, for a 32 pound bike it climbs really well, good traction without having to move my weight back and no wandering, easy to pick and change lines while climbing. The Eagle grunt gear is a must for So Cal riding, just need strong legs and it will climb just about anything. I did notice the Eagle does not shift as smooth as XT under power, just something I need to adjust to.
The geo on this bike is amazing, I used to get lower back pain on long rides, that has not happened on this bike, I feel very balanced over the bike, the fit is perfect for me. To me it rides like a smaller bike than other 29ers I've tried, tight turns have not been an issue. Also the bike is stealth silent, no creaking, squeaking or chain noise at all. And I get a lot of "nice bike" comments on the trail which is always fun to hear.
I have 3 rides now on my new HT, finally got in some good fast downhill and jumps. I am still chasing a good suspension set up though. I have the C S version with the RockShox front and rear. First two rides I tried about 35% sag front and rear, felt soft and ran through all the travel. For my last ride I tried 25%. The front fork was a bit harsh on the small chatter but was not using up all the travel. I am at 11 clicks of rebound and running 4 to 8 clicks in on compression. I liked the more compliant ride before the change so I have a feeling 30% sag will be the number I settle on.
The shock however is still bottoming out at 25% sag with 5 compression clicks. Suited up I am 195 pounds so I am thinking I need to add a token or two. Anyone else similar to my weight experiencing this and if so any suggestions on tokens?
I have never had a bike with SRAM brakes always had Shimano XT and I notice I am having to squeeze the Codes pretty hard then they all of a sudden lock up. I have a feeling I need to increase the rotor size to get better modulation or the pad material is heating up too quickly. More experimenting needed.
What I do like, for a 32 pound bike it climbs really well, good traction without having to move my weight back and no wandering, easy to pick and change lines while climbing. The Eagle grunt gear is a must for So Cal riding, just need strong legs and it will climb just about anything. I did notice the Eagle does not shift as smooth as XT under power, just something I need to adjust to.
The geo on this bike is amazing, I used to get lower back pain on long rides, that has not happened on this bike, I feel very balanced over the bike, the fit is perfect for me. To me it rides like a smaller bike than other 29ers I've tried, tight turns have not been an issue. Also the bike is stealth silent, no creaking, squeaking or chain noise at all. And I get a lot of "nice bike" comments on the trail which is always fun to hear.
I am about the same weight. I suggest running 28-30 % in the Lyrik. Will put your weight forward a bit and help with bottoming in the rear. In the back i suggest 28-30% as well. I did a few drops to flat about 1,5 m and it used all travel which is fine IMO. Make sure u measure SAG while standing up in attack position. Havent riden the bike on gnarlier terrain yet. If it bottoms out frequently on the local trails I will add a volume spacer.
I also switched from XT 4 piston to code RSCs which takes some getting used too. I always liked SRAM feel just the reliability was shit. I hope these hold up. You need 200mm rotors front and back for sure with that weight. Makes a ton of difference.
BTW take out the LSC no one uses this feature. IMO it just makes the fork and shock feel harsh. Supder Deluxe on my Calling doesnt even have this feature. At your weight you have to run so much air pressure that you dont really need a lot of compression. I have one cick of HSC thats it. If you ride super flowy jumps and berms it might make sense to add LSC though.
I am about the same weight. I suggest running 28-30 % in the Lyrik. Will put your weight forward a bit and help with bottoming in the rear. In the back i suggest 28-30% as well. I did a few drops to flat about 1,5 m and it used all travel which is fine IMO. Make sure u measure SAG while standing up in attack position. Havent riden the bike on gnarlier terrain yet. If it bottoms out frequently on the local trails I will add a volume spacer.
I also switched from XT 4 piston to code RSCs which takes some getting used too. I always liked SRAM feel just the reliability was shit. I hope these hold up. You need 200mm rotors front and back for sure with that weight. Makes a ton of difference.
BTW take out the LSC no one uses this feature. IMO it just makes the fork and shock feel harsh. Supder Deluxe on my Calling doesnt even have this feature. At your weight you have to run so much air pressure that you dont really need a lot of compression. I have one cick of HSC thats it. If you ride super flowy jumps and berms it might make sense to add LSC though.
Appreciate the help. Neither the Lyrik Select + fork or the Super Deluxe Select + shock have LSC adjustment. I did work on the fork some more and feel I have it at a point I like, 85 psi put me at 28-30% on the sag, 2 tokens, 9 clicks out from full rebound and 2-3 clicks of HSC, good balance of compliance and support. I did not get any extra volume reducers for the shock so will need to order a few to play with it some more. Also trying out some lighter faster tires, experimenting with Aggressor in the rear and Ardent in the front. Saving the DHR II's for the summer bike park rides. Wish I could afford a set of reserve wheels.
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Also trying out some lighter faster tires, experimenting with Aggressor in the rear and Ardent in the front. Saving the DHR II's for the summer bike park rides. Wish I could afford a set of reserve wheels.
Obviously, it's your call, but I would consider the opposite; the Aggressor in the front and the Ardent in the rear.
Obviously, it's your call, but I would consider the opposite; the Aggressor in the front and the Ardent in the rear.
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I like the grip for climbing I get from the Aggressor on my 27.5 so looking for same on the 29er. Not sure about the Ardent, it's unknown for me. I see online reviews seem to be a love it or hate it tire but I got it cheap so worth a try.
What characteristics does the megneg improve upon?
Plusher in the initial part of the stroke with more mid stroke support and the end part of the stroke firms up without being harsh. I was bottoming every ride previously, now I'm close but yet to bottom! So now there is more grip and balance, zero harsh feelings.
Finally finished with my build. As a reference for seat post I am 177cm and I am able to use a 180 mm oneup dropper on my size large alu frame. Built up with XT drivetrain, slx brakes, dt swiss xm481+dt350 and a Pike Ultimate. Cost of build ended up slightly below retail for an S build Aluminum.
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Originally Posted by jgusta
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thanks for sharing the information thought! do you have a picture out of curiosity?
