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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fassn8 View Post
    Recently upgraded my lyrik on my HT2 from 150mm (stock) to 160mm with the Push ACS3 coil kit. Wow! I thought the Lyrik was already pretty nice but the ASC3 gives the bike an incredible feel. Super small bump compliance and traction. Also the bike feels great at 160/140. Definitely worth checking out.

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    i wonder how that feels compared to the fox36 in general if you know. I know there's a kit for is as well, but mainly, the fox is already quite nice for small bump compliance as long as you service it often compared to the lyrik (i like the lyrik mid support better thought.. but ive never had a fox36 grip2, which might be better there than the fit4 dampers)

    also, i converted my ht1 to 150mm (29er) vs the 140 stock and i remember liking it, but i definitely would end up staying a bit higher in the travel than "i normally would". That made small bump compliance better, but the bike dive slightly more on big landings obviously. Surprised how 1 centimeter changed the bike balance for the landings though. I suspect i'll keep my upcoming ht2 at 150mm, but, who knows

  2. #802
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    I have a fox 36 160mm Grip 1 on another bike and it's awesome. But I think the coil in the Lyrik is even better in terms of traction and suppleness. Not a direct comparison but I do think there's something rad about coils.

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  3. #803
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    Today was my first ride, I really like how quiet this bike is going down. I did not have any problem climbing with this bike at all, it is a little strange but I think is more related to new geometry that anything else. I am not sure if I need to give time for brakes to become more active, I think this is my only complain on my first ride.

  4. #804
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    Okay, I have my CC frame unboxed and am looking at its details before starting the build so it's time for stupid Hightower questions:

    1. Rear brake appears to simply be a post mount for a minimum 180 mm rotor....no adapter necessary, correct?

    2. Internal dropper route is the bottom or top hole on the side of the head tube? I'm also hoping the dropper cable/housing is simply pushed through the down tube and guided up the seat tube?

    3. Any tricks to routing the brake and shift lines/housing or is it as painless as it looks? I plan on setting that up this weekend and am just curious.

    4. Is anyone running a 150 mm dropper as oppose to the longer ones SC is spec'ing? I have a perfectly good 150 mm Fox Transfer I planned on putting on but the shorter than average seat tube has me wondering if a 170 mm is more appropriate.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  5. #805
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    1) yup. Easy day
    2) canít remember on the first part but your assumption on install is correct. Super easy.
    3) painless, just be ready to bleed rear brake. But getting housings through is pretty easy other than the grommet area where a pick/pull helped a bit. Easier than my HTLT.
    4)Iím on a 170 One Up so hard for me to say man. Sorry here.

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    1) yup. Easy day
    2) canít remember on the first part but your assumption on install is correct. Super easy.
    3) painless, just be ready to bleed rear brake. But getting housings through is pretty easy other than the grommet area where a pick/pull helped a bit. Easier than my HTLT.
    4)Iím on a 170 One Up so hard for me to say man. Sorry here.
    Thanks man, definitely helpful. Can't wait to dive into this build.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Okay, I have my CC frame unboxed and am looking at its details before starting the build so it's time for stupid Hightower questions:

    1. Rear brake appears to simply be a post mount for a minimum 180 mm rotor....no adapter necessary, correct?

    2. Internal dropper route is the bottom or top hole on the side of the head tube? I'm also hoping the dropper cable/housing is simply pushed through the down tube and guided up the seat tube?

    3. Any tricks to routing the brake and shift lines/housing or is it as painless as it looks? I plan on setting that up this weekend and am just curious.

    4. Is anyone running a 150 mm dropper as oppose to the longer ones SC is spec'ing? I have a perfectly good 150 mm Fox Transfer I planned on putting on but the shorter than average seat tube has me wondering if a 170 mm is more appropriate.
    Internal dropper will come from the left side of handlebar, around head tube and through the only hole on the right hand side of the bike.


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  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post

    2. Internal dropper route is the bottom or top hole on the side of the head tube? I'm also hoping the dropper cable/housing is simply pushed through the down tube and guided up the seat tube?
    The dropper port is the single hole on the drive side.

  9. #809
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    ^^^That makes more sense. Thanks!
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  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by MondoGram View Post
    Yeah youíre right, but stiffness is super sensitive to wire gauge and so OD doesnít change by much. Stiffness increase of 10% would be in the order of 0.1-0.2mm wire diameter increase, so not generally significant from a package perspective.
    In theory you could also use fewer turns of wire to get increased stiffness. But going fro 250 to 600 is quite a lot...

  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post

    4. Is anyone running a 150 mm dropper as oppose to the longer ones SC is spec'ing? I have a perfectly good 150 mm Fox Transfer I planned on putting on but the shorter than average seat tube has me wondering if a 170 mm is more appropriate.
    in theory you should be able to just use the 150mm. you just won't be able to go as low as you would with the stock setup. It means your dropper will stick out higher by 2 centimeters, which should be totally fine.

    If your dropper is super short for some reason, be careful that it goes deep enough in the frame as per manufacturer specs so that it doesnt break itself or the frame - but i'd be surprised if that were the case. (droppers and regular seatposts have a minimum insertion length for strength/safety reasons).

    I plan to also put a Fox transfer 150mm in mine when i receive the frame, mainly because its what i have (until i get a 170). The transfer has plenty of extra length in my current frame so I assume it's also just fine in the HT2.

  12. #812
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    Dropper length

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    1) yup. Easy day
    2) canít remember on the first part but your assumption on install is correct. Super easy.
    3) painless, just be ready to bleed rear brake. But getting housings through is pretty easy other than the grommet area where a pick/pull helped a bit. Easier than my HTLT.
    4)Iím on a 170 One Up so hard for me to say man. Sorry here.

    As per question #4, how tall are you to run a 170mm Oneup? I am close to pulling the trigger on a frame and I am starting to put pieces together. In my LBS we talked about putting a 210mm and dropping it to 190, I am 6í1Ē-ish and will probably by a large after demoing an XL and L the other day. There certainly seems to be a lot of room on the seat post tube to allow for something longer than the 175mm spec.

  13. #813
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    My info may not help you out much man - Iím 5-9 with a 29.5 inch inseam. Iím on a medium and pretty stoked on it.

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvcraig75 View Post
    As per question #4, how tall are you to run a 170mm Oneup? I am close to pulling the trigger on a frame and I am starting to put pieces together. In my LBS we talked about putting a 210mm and dropping it to 190, I am 6í1Ē-ish and will probably by a large after demoing an XL and L the other day. There certainly seems to be a lot of room on the seat post tube to allow for something longer than the 175mm spec.
    Hey, for reference, Iím 6í2Ē, XL frame, 210mm OneUp dropper. Full extension of 800mm from Center BB to Center seat rail. Thereís about 120mm of seatpost exposed from frame post collar to top of post sealhead.

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by CORMONTE View Post
    Hey, for reference, Iím 6í2Ē, XL frame, 210mm OneUp dropper. Full extension of 800mm from Center BB to Center seat rail. Thereís about 120mm of seatpost exposed from frame post collar to top of post sealhead.
    So I think a 210mm would work on a large with the option to drop down to 190 or 200.

    I am still torn on the frame size, even though the XL felt very comfortable and manageable on varying terrain, the L just felt a little more maneuverable on switchbacks. I am probably 6í2Ē with shoes on, I have been riding a L 2016 Hightower and have always loved how it felt. I may lean towards the small bike feel just a little.

    I will say after the demo, I am very impressed with its technical climbing and bottomless feel on drops. And think the peddle bob is much less than my OGHT, standing up and cranking on it I felt like it was planted in the suspension, so much better than the original. If anyone is on the fence, donít demo a HT2 because you will then be trying to figure out how to get a new one.

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvcraig75 View Post
    So I think a 210mm would work on a large with the option to drop down to 190 or 200.

    I am still torn on the frame size, even though the XL felt very comfortable and manageable on varying terrain, the L just felt a little more maneuverable on switchbacks. I am probably 6í2Ē with shoes on, I have been riding a L 2016 Hightower and have always loved how it felt. I may lean towards the small bike feel just a little.

    I will say after the demo, I am very impressed with its technical climbing and bottomless feel on drops. And think the peddle bob is much less than my OGHT, standing up and cranking on it I felt like it was planted in the suspension, so much better than the original. If anyone is on the fence, donít demo a HT2 because you will then be trying to figure out how to get a new one.
    I'm the same height and I came off of a Large OGHT. I went with an XL megatower and I am very comfortable on it. I've since test ridden a Large HT2 and while it was nice from a trail bike riding style perspective... I could occasionally feel that same forward tug on janky rock sections that annoyed me about my hightower being too small.

    My suggestion would be XL, but for sure only you can make that choice. I will say that the XL mega is a bike that feels big occasionally (downhill switchbacks specifically) and the XL HT2 does not have that sensation for me.

  17. #817
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    Hightower V2

    if you want to add some bling to your frame take a look at betterbolts.com they sell a Ti shock and pivot bolts set for $34.99 and free shipping, saw this this past week on instagram and just became available


  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by uberstein View Post
    In theory you could also use fewer turns of wire to get increased stiffness. But going fro 250 to 600 is quite a lot...
    Here ya go, the wire gauge delta is quite visible. And, it seems the increase in wire gauge is offset by increasing the number of turns...

    Hightower V2-p4pb17607569.jpg

  19. #819
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    What are people finding to be the best sag for this bike? SC recommends 30-35% with the RS Super Deluxe Ultimate. More importantly, what rebound settings are any of you running. Can't seem to find the sweet spot. Looking for a bit of pop for regular trail riding and can dial down for smash through chunder sections.

  20. #820
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by sfmtber View Post
    What are people finding to be the best sag for this bike? SC recommends 30-35% with the RS Super Deluxe Ultimate. More importantly, what rebound settings are any of you running. Can't seem to find the sweet spot. Looking for a bit of pop for regular trail riding and can dial down for smash through chunder sections.
    Following...iím in the midst of toying around with this now, iím running just over 30% and not sure it feels right. Iím on the select+. interesting enough iím struggling to get this shock closer to a 20-25% sag. seems no matter how much air i put in (have ranged from 190psi to 215psi during my measurements) i keep getting the same sag measure. What am i missing? and just so i have the basics..higher psi less sag right?


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  21. #821
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    Not sure if this is any help to those struggling to set up their Deluxe rear shocks but I've had some substantial improvements to my Super Deluxe rear shocks by getting them Vorsprung Tractive tuned. I haven't ridden my new Hightower yet but I'm quietly confident I'll be getting that tuned the same way.

  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfmtber View Post
    What are people finding to be the best sag for this bike? SC recommends 30-35% with the RS Super Deluxe Ultimate. More importantly, what rebound settings are any of you running. Can't seem to find the sweet spot. Looking for a bit of pop for regular trail riding and can dial down for smash through chunder sections.
    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    Following...iím in the midst of toying around with this now, iím running just over 30% and not sure it feels right. Iím on the select+. interesting enough iím struggling to get this shock closer to a 20-25% sag. seems no matter how much air i put in (have ranged from 190psi to 215psi during my measurements) i keep getting the same sag measure. What am i missing? and just so i have the basics..higher psi less sag right?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've already posted before in this thread a few times about this but to me the bike feels good at SC's recommended PSI (1 pound of body weight= 1psi, so a 180lb geared-up rider= use 180 psi on the shock) which should get you to around 33% sag. Adding some LSC on the rear shock probably makes more of a difference than messing with the PSI, IMO, and riding with the LSC set to around a middle number of clicks (like 10/18 clicks available) makes the bike feel really nice for me. When the subject about making the HT2 more poppy comes up, usually so does the suggestion of messing around with the LSC. Try it and you should find that changing it just by 1 click should make a noticeable difference.

    Basically, do this and you can get a good mix of popiness and smash-ability.

    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    No doubt that the reverb was great when it worked properly, it had lots of travel, went up and down quickly and smoothly. Then all wasn't so great...
    Finally got a new reverb and rode my bike, the Reverb definitely feels great when new and I think the dropper lever feel very light and easy to use. The only problem is the reverb is great until it malfunctions, which is frequently.

    I've been suggested now to just sell the new reverb while it still works and buy a new dropper, the only question is what dropper is close to the 175mm of drop of the reverb while requiring a similar insertion length and is reliable. Considering how low the reverb is set in my bike, a 175mm fox transfer might be too long, so I don't know.


    Also, as a sidenote, I lowered the tire pressure down to 18psi front/ 23psi rear on the stock raceface wheelset/ 2.4 dhr2 combo and it really improved my riding. I thought 18psi would be too low upfront but the tires are not folding over when cornering and my cornering has improved.

  23. #823
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    I'm no suspension expert but the I was told by the shop I got my HT frame from to take the recommended sag setting with a grain of salt and that small adjustments in PSI can make big differences.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    I've already posted before in this thread a few times about this but to me the bike feels good at SC's recommended PSI (1 pound of body weight= 1psi, so a 180lb geared-up rider= use 180 psi on the shock) which should get you to around 33% sag. Adding some LSC on the rear shock probably makes more of a difference than messing with the PSI, IMO, and riding with the LSC set to around a middle number of clicks (like 10/18 clicks available) makes the bike feel really nice for me. When the subject about making the HT2 more poppy comes up, usually so does the suggestion of messing around with the LSC. Try it and you should find that changing it just by 1 click should make a noticeable difference.

    Basically, do this and you can get a good mix of popiness and smash-ability.

    Finally got a new reverb and rode my bike, the Reverb definitely feels great when new and I think the dropper lever feel very light and easy to use. The only problem is the reverb is great until it malfunctions, which is frequently.

    I've been suggested now to just sell the new reverb while it still works and buy a new dropper, the only question is what dropper is close to the 175mm of drop of the reverb while requiring a similar insertion length and is reliable. Considering how low the reverb is set in my bike, a 175mm fox transfer might be too long, so I don't know.


    Also, as a sidenote, I lowered the tire pressure down to 18psi front/ 23psi rear on the stock raceface wheelset/ 2.4 dhr2 combo and it really improved my riding. I thought 18psi would be too low upfront but the tires are not folding over when cornering and my cornering has improved.
    Agree with this 100 percent.

    I set my LSC 3-5 clicks from full open in front and same in rear. LSC adjustment is the ďoh - now I understand how amazing this bike isĒ adjustment.


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  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    I've already posted before in this thread a few times about this but to me the bike feels good at SC's recommended PSI (1 pound of body weight= 1psi, so a 180lb geared-up rider= use 180 psi on the shock) which should get you to around 33% sag. Adding some LSC on the rear shock probably makes more of a difference than messing with the PSI, IMO, and riding with the LSC set to around a middle number of clicks (like 10/18 clicks available) makes the bike feel really nice for me. When the subject about making the HT2 more poppy comes up, usually so does the suggestion of messing around with the LSC. Try it and you should find that changing it just by 1 click should make a noticeable difference.

    Basically, do this and you can get a good mix of popiness and smash-ability.

    Finally got a new reverb and rode my bike, the Reverb definitely feels great when new and I think the dropper lever feel very light and easy to use. The only problem is the reverb is great until it malfunctions, which is frequently.

    I've been suggested now to just sell the new reverb while it still works and buy a new dropper, the only question is what dropper is close to the 175mm of drop of the reverb while requiring a similar insertion length and is reliable. Considering how low the reverb is set in my bike, a 175mm fox transfer might be too long, so I don't know.


    Also, as a sidenote, I lowered the tire pressure down to 18psi front/ 23psi rear on the stock raceface wheelset/ 2.4 dhr2 combo and it really improved my riding. I thought 18psi would be too low upfront but the tires are not folding over when cornering and my cornering has improved.
    if iím 195lbs fully loaded and i set PSI to 195 and get 35% sag then up psi to 215psi and get 35% sag, whatís going on? or is it that from 195 to 215 maybe i went from 35 to 33% and just couldnít measure that precisely? iím trying to get to 25% to test it out. iím using the digital rockshox pump


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  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    if iím 195lbs fully loaded and i set PSI to 195 and get 35% sag then up psi to 215psi and get 35% sag, whatís going on? or is it that from 195 to 215 maybe i went from 35 to 33% and just couldnít measure that precisely? iím trying to get to 25% to test it out. iím using the digital rockshox pump


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    Try cycling the shock (while the pump is attached) to make sure you're equalizing the negative chamber. You may find that the pressure reading goes down after cycling the shock a bit. In other words you may not actually be putting 195psi in.

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  27. #827
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    I'm no suspension expert but the I was told by the shop I got my HT frame from to take the recommended sag setting with a grain of salt and that small adjustments in PSI can make big differences.
    Sag matters more on the upper link driven VPP due to the funky leverage curve (starts regressive, then flattens and goes progressive, so where the sag outs you on that curve has a big effect).

    Matters less on a fully progressive curve that the lower link driven VPP provides. I start at recommended but then tune by feel.

    Santa Cruz Hightower LT
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  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fassn8 View Post
    Try cycling the shock (while the pump is attached) to make sure you're equalizing the negative chamber. You may find that the pressure reading goes down after cycling the shock a bit. In other words you may not actually be putting 195psi in.

    Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
    thing is i did the recommended pump to 100psi then compress 5x to 50% to equalize then pumped up from there. so unless it didnít equalize not sure whatís next


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  29. #829
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    Anybody tried a Coil shock (DHX2) already? Does it fit?
    Is it possible to run it with longer 55mm stroke without anything hitting the frame?
    thanks!

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Sag matters more on the upper link driven VPP due to the funky leverage curve (starts regressive, then flattens and goes progressive, so where the sag outs you on that curve has a big effect).

    Matters less on a fully progressive curve that the lower link driven VPP provides. I start at recommended but then tune by feel.
    Couple more rides and I'm finding this to be true. I re-started at SC's recommended settings and have now backed off to about -10 psi from recommended, which puts me at just over 30% sag. So far I only have a couple of rides at this setting but I'm finding it gives me the plushness on small bump stuff and as long as pre-load the suspension, it gives me just the small amount of poppiness that makes it fun jumping off of things.

    Me: 225lbs riding weight
    Shock pressure: approx 215psi
    Rebound: 2 clicks from full fast
    LSC: 5 clicks from full closed

  31. #831
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    Oh.... and I have yet to bottom it out at these settings. Haven't hit anything big but have ridden some fun high speed chunky trails in Tahoe with a few small drops and no bottom out. Tell-tale O-ring after these rides was about 5mm from the bottom.

  32. #832
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    I've put some good time in with shockwiz on the SD Ultimate and got to about 92% happy on their dial. If I can usually get to 90pct and dial my own personal preferences from there (typically I like things a little faster on rebound) then I end up pretty stoked.

    I weigh 175 butt nekked, and ended up at exactly 174psi in the shock. I believe I am 4-5 clicks of LSC from slow and 3 clicks from fast on rebound. I'm getting solid performance and have bottomed out once on a high speed drop to flat scenario. Otherwise I am having a ball and this thing seems way easier to dial than the old HTLT with DPX2.
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  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    thing is i did the recommended pump to 100psi then compress 5x to 50% to equalize then pumped up from there. so unless it didnít equalize not sure whatís next


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    Try equalizing the chambers every 50 psi and after you reach your target pressure.

  34. #834
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    After demoing a TB4 for 2 days and a HT2 for 2 days, I've put in an order for a large HT cc frame in blue. SC has a shipping date - 10/28. We'll see if that gets pushed back or not.

    Here's an excerpt of my experience w/ the TB4 demo that I posted on the TB thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    I've seen both, prefer the purple. Demoing a yellow right now (ABQ, NM) It is pea soup green, kinda barfy. It's growing on me though.

    It's a Carbon S w/Reserve wheels, large. 30.7 pounds with XT pedals and a bottle cage. Looking to buy either a HT2cc frame with a lyrik Ultimate or the TB4cc with a Fox Factory 34, transfer my components over from my Fuel EX.

    Fortunately my LBS has both bikes available to demo on my local trails. Have taken the TB on 2 rides, one flowy trail and and a fairly chunky trail with some high speed descending.

    The HT is next, went in to this thinking that the HT would be the one, but after this last ride--holy crap, the TB4 is amazing. The HT is going to need to be pretty special to change my mind at this point. Got a 5th place (Strava) on a really fast, rocky, scary trail, and a 9th on a varied trail section-climbing and descending.

    It is literally the best handling bike I have ever ridden, and I don't say things like that lightly.

    The bike climbs great, but does not feel like a 130/120 bike on the descents, the geometry is fantastic, much more capable than my EX.

    Picking up the HT demo tomorrow.

    Edit: rode in low setting, no pedal strike issues for me.
    Hightower brought it. Same trails, same climbing times (even faster on some of the techy climbs). No contest on the descents. Not that much faster (2 seconds on the 5th place segment, 12 seconds on the other segment, moved from 9th to 7th, and snagged a 10th place on another descent besting the TB by 18 seconds) but so much more confidence/control.

    Demo was a S carbon C w/reserve wheels. I threw my Bonty Line Pro 30's shod w/ground control 2.3 grid, Eliminator 2.3 grid on, with a Sunrace 11-50, my XT rear derailleur and shifter (It's ok, I'm a bike mechanic )

    The reserves are nice, but I'm not a fan of the 2.4 DHR2's, freaking boat anchors.

    Weight was 31.5# w/XT pedals.

    I figure my build will be 30# give or take a few ounces, Next R crankset instead of the Sram alloy, CC frame, and Race Face carbon HB.

    Going to pair the frame w/ Lyrik Ultimate. Stoked to say the least.

    Sold my checkpoint to fund this endeavor. I barely rode the bike, put about 260 miles on it over a period of one year.
    2020 SC Hightower

  35. #835
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    How have you guys managed to clean the stanchion on the rear shock? It's awfully hard to reach it.

  36. #836
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImmortalBach View Post
    How have you guys managed to clean the stanchion on the rear shock? It's awfully hard to reach it.
    q-tips


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  37. #837
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    Hightower V2

    after asking the question many times to both ck and sc and never get any answer I decided to buy and try, but Iím not sure I want to risk it, heres the ck threadfit 30 clearance on the non drive side itís about 2 or 3 mm, the swing arm only moves away from the bb as the suspension cycles but Iím not sure if the frame can flex and actually hit the bb, what do you guys think?!? can anyone let me know how does this look like compared to the sram dub bb that comes with SC builds?


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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    after asking the question many times to both ck and sc and never get any answer I decided to buy and try, but Iím not sure I want to risk it, heres the ck threadfit 30 clearance on the non drive side itís about 2 or 3 mm, the swing arm only moves away from the bb as the suspension cycles but Iím not sure if the frame can flex and actually hit the bb, what do you guys think?!? can anyone let me know how does this look like compared to the sram dub bb that comes with SC builds?

    I got a reply from Chris King about the Megatower and their 30mm BB and they 'had not heard of any issue regarding clearance and they work very closely with Santa Cruz'. Thinking the Hightower should be ok then too.

    Have you tried in the high and low shock setting to see if it gets any closer?

  39. #839
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    Would love to get this bike. Looks like it would be an amazing ride. But I'm on a serious budget so the lowest model is really the only viable option for me. I actually prefer aluminum bikes, so that's not an issue. It's just that the spec makes it really hard to consider this when the Ripmo AF is out there. Wish Santa Cruz could have done a little better.

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by richulr View Post
    Would love to get this bike. Looks like it would be an amazing ride. But I'm on a serious budget so the lowest model is really the only viable option for me. I actually prefer aluminum bikes, so that's not an issue. It's just that the spec makes it really hard to consider this when the Ripmo AF is out there. Wish Santa Cruz could have done a little better.
    Iím a little off the AF but what are the specs and whatís actually noticiably better on the ripmo?

    I was comparing the carbon r tallboy with the ripley nx build and the Ibis is a little nicer for the same price so I donít doubt the ripmo af is a better build for the price!

  41. #841
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    I got a reply from Chris King about the Megatower and their 30mm BB and they 'had not heard of any issue regarding clearance and they work very closely with Santa Cruz'. Thinking the Hightower should be ok then too.

    Have you tried in the high and low shock setting to see if it gets any closer?
    have not checked the hi setting, this is the low setting, will check that tomorrow. I can tell that any bb wonít have much clearance since the swing arm is really close to the shell theads!

  42. #842
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    Iím a little off the AF but what are the specs and whatís actually noticiably better on the ripmo?

    I was comparing the carbon r tallboy with the ripley nx build and the Ibis is a little nicer for the same price so I donít doubt the ripmo af is a better build for the price!
    I'm not trying to dog Santa Cruz. I'm trying to justify the Hightower, but don't know if I can at this price point. Maybe Santa Cruz wins at higher price points, but the lowest models are all I can look at. Would like to give Santa Cruz another shot (my Nickle was one of my favorite bikes), but it doesn't look like it makes sense this go around. Sucks.

  43. #843
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    Hightower V2-hightower.jpg
    Build done at last!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    Iím a little off the AF but what are the specs and whatís actually noticiably better on the ripmo?

    I was comparing the carbon r tallboy with the ripley nx build and the Ibis is a little nicer for the same price so I donít doubt the ripmo af is a better build for the price!
    Comapring lowest to lowest:

    Ibis $2999usd - NX, top spec DVO (equivalent to fox factory)

    SC $2899usd - SX, Rockshox 35 gold RL (entry level budget fork and fox performance DPS

    All else similar. So for $100 you get a small drivetrain upgrade and a major suspension upgrade

    For $3499 you can get the SC NX build which comes with a yari instead of the 35 gold. And guide R brakes, so $500 over the Ibis gets you a small downgrade on fork, a big downgrade on shock and a big upgrade on brakes.

    If in that price range I would get the Ibis and upgrade to the new SLX 4-pot brakes

  45. #845
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronxbomber252 View Post
    If in that price range I would get the Ibis and upgrade to the new SLX 4-pot brakes
    looks like a solid suggestion!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    I weigh 175 butt nekked, and ended up at exactly 174psi in the shock. I believe I am 4-5 clicks of LSC from slow and 3 clicks from fast on rebound. I'm getting solid performance and have bottomed out once on a high speed drop to flat scenario. Otherwise I am having a ball and this thing seems way easier to dial than the old HTLT with DPX2.
    Interesting, I am close in weight and with my experimentation I am finding ~188 PSI, two volume spacers, 4-5 clicks from FAST on LSC and 2-3 clicks from SLOW on rebound is feeling pretty good. It tracks well and feels poppy, but I am bottoming it a little more frequently than I would like. Maybe I'll try a shockwiz, or even just try less pressure and more LSC. What terrain are you on and how would you describe your riding style?

    Thanks.

  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Build done at last!
    nice decals...stikrd? can you show a close up of them


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  48. #848
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Build done at last!
    in the end what BB did you decide to use? went with CK or something else?

  49. #849
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronxbomber252 View Post
    Comapring lowest to lowest:

    Ibis $2999usd - NX, top spec DVO (equivalent to fox factory)

    SC $2899usd - SX, Rockshox 35 gold RL (entry level budget fork and fox performance DPS

    All else similar. So for $100 you get a small drivetrain upgrade and a major suspension upgrade

    For $3499 you can get the SC NX build which comes with a yari instead of the 35 gold. And guide R brakes, so $500 over the Ibis gets you a small downgrade on fork, a big downgrade on shock and a big upgrade on brakes.

    If in that price range I would get the Ibis and upgrade to the new SLX 4-pot brakes
    The Ripmo AF is a great deal. Top of the line suspension and a ripmo frame for $3000 is a good deal. A full bike build!??!

    If they sold a Rioley AF with dvo I might just pull the trigger on that.
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  50. #850
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBert18 View Post
    Anybody tried a Coil shock (DHX2) already? Does it fit?
    Is it possible to run it with longer 55mm stroke without anything hitting the frame?
    thanks!
    I saw a guy with one at the trailhead, he was on an XL and hadnít put a ton of time on it yet. He said he did get a little rub with dirt getting in there, also he said when he bottomed out it was harsh, but that he liked it better than a dpx2 or the RS super deluxe. So it can be done

  51. #851
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    in the end what BB did you decide to use? went with CK or something else?
    Went with the Praxis because Chris King didn't reply to my questions on their fitment quick enough.

  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    nice decals...stikrd? can you show a close up of them


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    Nah they are from NLdesigns. I wouldn't buy again. Sticker quality is ok but they aren't exactly what I was after. Meant to only have a really thin black outline but there is still silver showing around the outside. I'll get them done again later if I can be bothered. The went on ok on top of the invisiframe.
    Hightower V2-cruz-decals.jpg

  53. #853
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Went with the Praxis because Chris King didn't reply to my questions on their fitment quick enough.
    I checked the hi position and the bb doesnít fit with the shock in the hi position! this tells me even if it fits in the lo position I shouldnít really use it! will just buy sram bb for now since I need to build this bike!

  54. #854
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    Thatís great to know about NLdesigns. My LBS suggested the and my emails with the guy seemed like he was impatient and just wanted me to order something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    After demoing a TB4 for 2 days and a HT2 for 2 days, I've put in an order for a large HT cc frame in blue. SC has a shipping date - 10/28. We'll see if that gets pushed back or not.

    Here's an excerpt of my experience w/ the TB4 demo that I posted on the TB thread:



    Hightower brought it. Same trails, same climbing times (even faster on some of the techy climbs). No contest on the descents. Not that much faster (2 seconds on the 5th place segment, 12 seconds on the other segment, moved from 9th to 7th, and snagged a 10th place on another descent besting the TB by 18 seconds) but so much more confidence/control.

    Demo was a S carbon C w/reserve wheels. I threw my Bonty Line Pro 30's shod w/ground control 2.3 grid, Eliminator 2.3 grid on, with a Sunrace 11-50, my XT rear derailleur and shifter (It's ok, I'm a bike mechanic )

    The reserves are nice, but I'm not a fan of the 2.4 DHR2's, freaking boat anchors.

    Weight was 31.5# w/XT pedals.

    I figure my build will be 30# give or take a few ounces, Next R crankset instead of the Sram alloy, CC frame, and Race Face carbon HB.

    Going to pair the frame w/ Lyrik Ultimate. Stoked to say the least.

    Sold my checkpoint to fund this endeavor. I barely rode the bike, put about 260 miles on it over a period of one year.
    I am considering a similar build. What kind of BB will you use? Curious if the RF cinch BB will be close to the frame

  56. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Nah they are from NLdesigns. I wouldn't buy again. Sticker quality is ok but they aren't exactly what I was after. Meant to only have a really thin black outline but there is still silver showing around the outside. I'll get them done again later if I can be bothered. The went on ok on top of the invisiframe.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    still looks sharp. can you add and remove decals on top of invisframe at will? or does the frame protection come off every time you change decals i.e. best get them right and be happy otherwise itís another wrap


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  57. #857
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvcraig75 View Post
    I am considering a similar build. What kind of BB will you use? Curious if the RF cinch BB will be close to the frame
    Planning on the RF bb. Hmm...good question.
    2020 SC Hightower

  58. #858
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    I have Next SL in mine as well, with a standard RF bottom bracket. I am in the process of replacing it with a Wheels Mfg or a Rotor one. I also heard just replacing the bearings in the RF one is a huge improvement.
    Hey Tedo,

    Any clearance issues with the RF cinch BB?
    2020 SC Hightower

  59. #859
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    still looks sharp. can you add and remove decals on top of invisframe at will? or does the frame protection come off every time you change decals i.e. best get them right and be happy otherwise itís another wrap


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm hoping the decals will come off without damaging the wrap. Has anyone else removed decals on top of invisiframe with success?

  60. #860
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tree View Post
    I have a set of RaceFace Next R installed on my HT2 with a RaceFace bottom bracket. No issues with fitment.
    The bottom bracket is just starting to make some noise so I will be in the market for a new one.
    Suggestions?
    Never mind, just found this post.
    2020 SC Hightower

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I checked the hi position and the bb doesnít fit with the shock in the hi position! this tells me even if it fits in the lo position I shouldnít really use it! will just buy sram bb for now since I need to build this bike!
    so SC replied to my email with the picture of the CK 30 bb and the swing arm close up, about 2mm clearance, they said ďif it clears the swing arm you should be fineĒ but that didnít sound very confidence inspiring to me! still if for whatever reason I decided to try hi geo Iíd have to install the sram bb anyway since it doesnít clear the swing arm in the hi position!

  62. #862
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    Never mind, just found this post.
    Iíd be more insterested in how close it is to the frame and lo/hi fit! well now I have a sram bb coming at least itís cheap!

  63. #863
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    I'm on RF Cinch also, with no issues at all.

    Also, in response to removing decals on top of invisiframe - yes, works just fine as I already pulled a set of SC decals off from over top of it with no issues.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  64. #864
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    Hey Tedo,

    Any clearance issues with the RF cinch BB?
    None at all. I am also running the bike in the Hi position for our Vermont trails, and its absolutely perfect.

    Best bike ever. Just did the Vermont50 (50 miles, 9400ft of climbing) in just under 7 hours on the HT. Very comfortable bike, that also shreds on super hard tech.
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  65. #865
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    Hightower V2-scht.jpg

    Just put on my decals last night! Loving it!

  66. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    None at all. I am also running the bike in the Hi position for our Vermont trails, and its absolutely perfect.

    Best bike ever. Just did the Vermont50 (50 miles, 9400ft of climbing) in just under 7 hours on the HT. Very comfortable bike, that also shreds on super hard tech.
    Good info. I ride in central/northern VT and was set on a Tallboy, I went in the the local shop and starting talking to a couple of the guys and ended up ordering a HT. They insisted I wouldn't give up much climbing ability and the more I hear about the HT as an all arounder the happier I am I went with the HT.

    Impressive doing the VT50 on it. I plan in doing many epic rides when I get it built up.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  67. #867
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    Lots of good talk earlier about setup on he RS Super Deluxe.
    How is anyone getting on with the Fox DPS on the lower end builds (and as will be fitted on my alloy frame once it arrives?)


    I have the Fox DPS Performance on my (Single Pivot) Orange, its performance has been 'OK'.

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by bermymiyan View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just put on my decals last night! Loving it!
    how do you like AXS on the HT?


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    Yeah AXS is AXS! everything they say about it is very true and the best thing is it just works! I've never ridden the HT without it out so i can't say to much. I'm a techy at heart so i had to go for it.

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Good info. I ride in central/northern VT and was set on a Tallboy, I went in the the local shop and starting talking to a couple of the guys and ended up ordering a HT. They insisted I wouldn't give up much climbing ability and the more I hear about the HT as an all arounder the happier I am I went with the HT.

    Impressive doing the VT50 on it. I plan in doing many epic rides when I get it built up.
    Yes, I would rather be over-biked then underbiked. It rides really comfortable.

    I also did Del's Ride on it (Sleepy > HTF > Carse - and back over) Took a little over 5 hours. Mine also has slow-ass Minions (2.6 / 2.4). They started to drag a little towards the end of the 50... Its a long day in the saddle.

    I couldn't be happier with it.
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  71. #871
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    Quote Originally Posted by snotrag View Post
    Lots of good talk earlier about setup on he RS Super Deluxe.
    How is anyone getting on with the Fox DPS on the lower end builds (and as will be fitted on my alloy frame once it arrives?)


    I have the Fox DPS Performance on my (Single Pivot) Orange, its performance has been 'OK'.
    I bought the R build the week after it was released. It was the only HT at my LBS, and the S was a month out. Basically nothing is stock anymore on the bike besides the DPS (updraded Yari with the 2.1 Charger making it a Lyric).

    Tell you the truth, I never really notice the rear. I have slightly lower sag and slightly faster rebound. Always leave it wide open, and it just works. I would like to upgrade to the Factory DPS so I could have some LSC, but thats not mandatory. I like the DPS because they are light.

    I'm sure if I got a chance to ride a coil, it may change my mind though, just not top priority.
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  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by bermymiyan View Post
    Yeah AXS is AXS! everything they say about it is very true and the best thing is it just works! I've never ridden the HT without it out so i can't say to much. I'm a techy at heart so i had to go for it.
    using anything to cover the cable ports? I got those plugs from yeti, not perfect but kinda work, I just donít really love the fit since itís not perfect!

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    you know i never thought of that! Now i need to find a solution for it. thanks for the heads up

  74. #874
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    Here some detail info regarding ck threadfit and sram dub bb that I wish I had before





    Clearance is definitely more on the safer side, I still want to check the sram bb in the hi position and compare that with the ck in the low position

    ck bb is 50.55mm diameter and sram dub is 45.60 so almost 5mm difference which would result in ~2.5mm in clearance with the swing arm

  75. #875
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    Whatís the rule of thumb for touch up? Donít think this is deep enough to be anything more than cosmetic...that said iíd like to seal it. Any kind of lacquer works? nail polish?


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    Itís carbon, it doesnít corrode. So unless you are trying to color match to restore the cosmetics, I wouldnít bother.

  77. #877
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronxbomber252 View Post
    Itís carbon, it doesnít corrode. So unless you are trying to color match to restore the cosmetics, I wouldnít bother.
    i wouldnít mind. i donít care for a smooth finish just something that doesnít catch my eye daily! i also assume i canít put invsiframe over the uneven paint now


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  78. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    Whatís the rule of thumb for touch up? Donít think this is deep enough to be anything more than cosmetic...that said iíd like to seal it. Any kind of lacquer works? nail polish?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The far left one looks pretty deep. Iíd do a tap test to make sure the frame isnít compromised.

    Assuming itís fine you could leave it as is, full it in with some expoxy or contact sc for the Pantone color codes and touch it up.

  79. #879
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by Jukas View Post
    The far left one looks pretty deep. Iíd do a tap test to make sure the frame isnít compromised.

    Assuming itís fine you could leave it as is, full it in with some expoxy or contact sc for the Pantone color codes and touch it up.
    That was my concern. when I tap to the left with a basic knife handle I get the higher sound, but when I tap directly on the mark it is a more dull sound(first time doing this) that said how do I differentiate? as one side had full paint, the other is obviously uneven with no paint coat...seems like this wouldnít be a great test

    It wasnít a hard crash, nor at any speed, it slid over a rock


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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    That was my concern. when I tap to the left with a basic knife handle I get the higher sound, but when I tap directly on the mark it is a more dull sound(first time doing this) that said how do I differentiate? as one side had full paint, the other is obviously uneven with no paint coat...seems like this wouldnít be a great test

    It wasnít a hard crash, nor at any speed, it slid over a rock


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  81. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    That was my concern. when I tap to the left with a basic knife handle I get the higher sound, but when I tap directly on the mark it is a more dull sound(first time doing this) that said how do I differentiate? as one side had full paint, the other is obviously uneven with no paint coat...seems like this wouldnít be a great test

    It wasnít a hard crash, nor at any speed, it slid over a rock


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I prefer to use a coin, like a quarter or a dime. tap on a normal section of the frame nearish to where the damage is and you should hear a higher sound, almost like a "ping".

    Then tap gently just around the damaged around but still on the blue paint. If it's a dull, flat, almost non existent sound the carbon has been structurally damaged.

    The photo is too small to tell, but it looks like it dug deep enough into the carbon where you can see the fibers from the layup. If that's the case you're probably looking at needing to crash replace the triangle, but I would reach out of SC directly for advice or go back to your lbs and have them do so for you.

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    Whatís the rule of thumb for touch up? Donít think this is deep enough to be anything more than cosmetic...that said iíd like to seal it. Any kind of lacquer works? nail polish?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    paint code for the blue is PMS 2153c if you decide to go that route.
    buzzes like a fridge

  83. #883
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerfectZero View Post
    paint code for the blue is PMS 2153c if you decide to go that route.
    thanks


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    Quote Originally Posted by PerfectZero View Post
    paint code for the blue is PMS 2153c if you decide to go that route.
    Maybe you can help me with the pantone color code for my Bronson v3 Primer Grey?
    I tried contact Santa Cruz few times the last couple of month through their site (Contact Us), and never got answer back...

  85. #885
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    Local shop was building this up the other day. AL frame does look nice!

    Hightower V2-a4505346-c013-4df3-9db6-59dabd906642.jpg

  86. #886
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    How many of you can chime on the high chip setting versus the low setting. I have only been on the bike in the low setting, demo only, three demos. I didn't have time to switch it from the high setting to the low setting and I should have. Bottom bracket lowers a bit and seems the bike in theory would be a tad snappier. Is this the case in the low setting? Any thoughts on this. What have you noticed from high setting to the low setting? What setting seems to make the bike snappier and crisper? Thanks...

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    How many of you can chime on the high chip setting versus the low setting. I have only been on the bike in the low setting, demo only, three demos. I didn't have time to switch it from the high setting to the low setting and I should have. Bottom bracket lowers a bit and seems the bike in theory would be a tad snappier. Is this the case in the low setting? Any thoughts on this. What have you noticed from high setting to the low setting? What setting seems to make the bike snappier and crisper? Thanks...
    To be honest, just better pedal clearance. Switched to high mode and bike has stayed that way.


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  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by GIFFMANN View Post
    Local shop was building this up the other day. AL frame does look nice!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks great! That's the first non-press release photo of the alloy version I have seen, gives me hope that they are now on their way out to the distributors/shops. Hopefully mine (blue) is not too far off.

    In other news, picked up a bargain unused 36 performance Elite with Fit4 damper this weekend ready to fit once the frame does turn up!

  89. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddy-Runs View Post
    Maybe you can help me with the pantone color code for my Bronson v3 Primer Grey?
    I tried contact Santa Cruz few times the last couple of month through their site (Contact Us), and never got answer back...
    Ah, I wish I could help. I just emailed them and was lucky enough to get a response for the blue I guess. You might try giving them a call if you don't get a response.
    buzzes like a fridge

  90. #890
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    My two first ride were done in high setting, I was ok no issues, somehow i changed to low and i like it better in this way, no problem hitting the cranks and I think the bike was more responsive and felt better doing jumps

  91. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    How many of you can chime on the high chip setting versus the low setting. I have only been on the bike in the low setting, demo only, three demos. I didn't have time to switch it from the high setting to the low setting and I should have. Bottom bracket lowers a bit and seems the bike in theory would be a tad snappier. Is this the case in the low setting? Any thoughts on this. What have you noticed from high setting to the low setting? What setting seems to make the bike snappier and crisper? Thanks...
    I started at the high setting, rode it about 50 miles and then switched to low to try it out. Have put about 350 miles on since then and have no plans to return. Feels better descending, kind of like it carves better of that makes sense. Also put on XT flat pedals recently and they are a bit thicker than what I was using. Started having several pedal strikes per ride. Not just like a little click, but lightning bolts up my leg pedal strikes. Iím more interested in maintaining the low position, so I swapped out to a pair of Chester pedals and the strikes went away. Now Iím considering a pair of one up aluminum pedals because they are so thin. In my experience low is great if you are using thinner pedals.


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  92. #892
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    Finally building mine after one week delay on my invisiframe! Still work to be done spent most of my evening installing the frame wrap!








  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    How many of you can chime on the high chip setting versus the low setting. I have only been on the bike in the low setting, demo only, three demos. I didn't have time to switch it from the high setting to the low setting and I should have. Bottom bracket lowers a bit and seems the bike in theory would be a tad snappier. Is this the case in the low setting? Any thoughts on this. What have you noticed from high setting to the low setting? What setting seems to make the bike snappier and crisper? Thanks...
    I felt like the rear suspension wasn't as plush in the high mode, not sure why I got that impression but the difference is very small and I prefer the low mode on the HTv2, pedal strikes are minimal.

    On my Stumpjumper switching from low to high was much more noticeable and I actually preferred the high mode because low on the Stumpy caused too many pedal strikes. I feel the low on the HTv2 is slightly higher than low on the Stumpy.

    For reference I preferred the high mode on the HTv1 too, mostly because of pedal strikes (175mm cranks), would probably have gone low mode with 170mm cranks.
    2020 SC Hightower v2
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  94. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    Finally building mine after one week delay on my invisiframe! Still work to be done spent most of my evening installing the frame wrap!







    Who did the decals?

  95. #895
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    When I owned the bike, I actually preferred high mode. I didn't notice much in the way of geo change since it's so subtle, but thought it woke the bike up a bit in a way I liked vs low.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  96. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    How many of you can chime on the high chip setting versus the low setting. I have only been on the bike in the low setting, demo only, three demos. I didn't have time to switch it from the high setting to the low setting and I should have. Bottom bracket lowers a bit and seems the bike in theory would be a tad snappier. Is this the case in the low setting? Any thoughts on this. What have you noticed from high setting to the low setting? What setting seems to make the bike snappier and crisper? Thanks...
    According to Santa Cruz... "Switching the lower link chip between Low and High only requires a 6mm Allen and a minute or twoóloosen the bolt, flip the chip, tighten the bolt. In the Low position, the shock rate becomes more progressive, particularly at the end of the stroke, and thereís some bottom-out resistance to be gained. In the High setting, the bike rides a little higher in its travel and supplies the rider with more mid-stroke support. Tweakers and finicky shredders can adapt the suspension feel to their needs and desire."

    https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en...ing-the-script

  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frosty2019 View Post
    Who did the decals?
    The downtube SC decal is from invisiframe, Silver Foil I believe is the color, wanted something to match the shock and lyrik decals.

  98. #898
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    NICE!

    I love the look!

    What are you using for frame plugs for axs?

  99. #899
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    Anyone have good alternatives to Invisiframe? I don't think I have the patience to apply it nor do I want to pay $100 for a bunch of stickers.

    I was thinking Shelter tape on the exposed parts of the downtube and something minimal on the seat stays. Anyone do anything like this?
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  100. #900
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    3M Bra Tape 4inch wide rolls are available on amazon. You can use it to protect as needed and customize your own pieces. For downtube areas Iíve used clear Helicopter tape. On my new bike I went with invisiframe finally and I will probably do it again on every bike moving forward.

  101. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Anyone have good alternatives to Invisiframe? I don't think I have the patience to apply it nor do I want to pay $100 for a bunch of stickers.

    I was thinking Shelter tape on the exposed parts of the downtube and something minimal on the seat stays. Anyone do anything like this?
    you can look at some of Nate Hills bike build videos where he talks about frame protection. I believe the latest sb140 and/or sb130/150 is where he mentioned the frame protection

  102. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheatgerm View Post
    According to Santa Cruz... "Switching the lower link chip between Low and High only requires a 6mm Allen and a minute or twoóloosen the bolt, flip the chip, tighten the bolt. In the Low position, the shock rate becomes more progressive, particularly at the end of the stroke, and thereís some bottom-out resistance to be gained. In the High setting, the bike rides a little higher in its travel and supplies the rider with more mid-stroke support. Tweakers and finicky shredders can adapt the suspension feel to their needs and desire."

    https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en...ing-the-script
    It isnít that easy. The cam bolt on the other side also needs to be flipped and you need to remove the lower linkage to access it.


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  103. #903
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    It isnít that easy. The cam bolt on the other side also needs to be flipped and you need to remove the lower linkage to access it.


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    not much space but on my M frame I can flip both chips removing only the rear shock bolt!

  104. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerfectZero View Post
    paint code for the blue is PMS 2153c if you decide to go that route.
    Sounds like you've done this before, any guide to properly fix up paint in general? It seems like you'd have to go to a paint shop to get the color mixed (PMS 2153c doesn't seem to be a standard color you can get easily according to Google ;-) then sand and apply clear coat.. I guess haha.
    All the youtube videos about this seem to do a terrible job with nail polish basically.

  105. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Anyone have good alternatives to Invisiframe? I don't think I have the patience to apply it nor do I want to pay $100 for a bunch of stickers.

    I was thinking Shelter tape on the exposed parts of the downtube and something minimal on the seat stays. Anyone do anything like this?
    Duct tape is your best bet.

    Lowes has them with different graphics. My wife has the Hello Kitty print.

  106. #906
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    Hightower V2

    finally finished the build!




  107. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    finally finished the build!



    Probably the best looking HTv2 I have seen so far, nice work.
    2020 SC Hightower v2
    2019 Spec. Stumpjumper
    2018 SC Hightower v1
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  108. #908
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Sounds like you've done this before, any guide to properly fix up paint in general? It seems like you'd have to go to a paint shop to get the color mixed (PMS 2153c doesn't seem to be a standard color you can get easily according to Google ;-) then sand and apply clear coat.. I guess haha.
    All the youtube videos about this seem to do a terrible job with nail polish basically.
    Don't really have any professional knowledge, but yeah had to do something after a little parking garage mishap resulted in a large and very obvious top tube scratch.

    I priced out having a batch of PMS 2153c made at a few places online, myerfectcolor.com for example, but it was going to end up being pretty pricey. I should have tried an actual paint shop... or bought a bunch and sold it here!

    If you google PMS 2153c you can find options for the closest "standard" color. I ended up buying a Capri Blue (RAL5019) touch up pen for $10 and it works very well for small scratches, and adequately for larger spots. The color isn't exactly right, but it's close enough to not notice unless you're looking directly at it under bright lighting.
    buzzes like a fridge

  109. #909
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    I found that https://www.myperfectcolor.com/paint...ens/semi-gloss has them for 25USD a pen (which isn't a great price obviously but that might help someone ;-)

    It's a lot cheaper if you need many

  110. #910
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    Someone need to buy a bunch of these pens and we can pay to order to help out. I for one would be interested

  111. #911
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    Is the difference 170grams for the same travel 150mm?
    At Sram web I see that they quote 2003grams for 150mm Lyrik Ultimate and 1832grams for 120mm Pike Ultimate.
    Check the line below weight spec at https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/fs-pike-ult-b3
    Anyone knows the weight difference for 150mm both?
    I guess it will be much less then 170 grams, doesn't it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    Yeah unkitted im 130lbs so a light weight rider. Ran pikes for the last 6 years and never thought I needed a stiffer fork but would like as responsive a fork as possible when it comes to chatter and repetitive small hits because I tend to find my weight struggles to get forks to respond. 170g is a lot of weight to save when I'm trying to keep weight down as much as possible to get as close to my bronson build as possible, I dont really understand why the maverick's are being spec'd with lyriks then when most female riders are going to be on the lighterweight side. Equally I'm an above average rider who hits some pretty gnarly tuff and pretty steep stuff and sometimes long intensive runs but if the internals are identical I dont see what the point is!

  112. #912
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    The only difference between a 120 and 150 pike is the air spring, which isnít a very heavy component. The stanchion length is the same (just less or more exposed), as are the lowers, and damper.

  113. #913
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    Thank you for quick answer :-).


    Quote Originally Posted by bronxbomber252 View Post
    The only difference between a 120 and 150 pike is the air spring, which isnít a very heavy component. The stanchion length is the same (just less or more exposed), as are the lowers, and damper.

  114. #914
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    What are people using for down tube / bottom bracket protection? I have a crash replacement Hightower 2 frame after a rock poked a hole in the edge of the frame on my hightower 1 and I'd like to find something with more coverage of the sides then the provided plate. Rockguardz doesn't list one yet has anyone done a nice DIY one with kydex or similar?

  115. #915
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanbx86 View Post
    What are people using for down tube / bottom bracket protection? I have a crash replacement Hightower 2 frame after a rock poked a hole in the edge of the frame on my hightower 1 and I'd like to find something with more coverage of the sides then the provided plate. Rockguardz doesn't list one yet has anyone done a nice DIY one with kydex or similar?
    That Megatower Rockguardz has got to be close to fitting. Would it be worth ordering one to try as their return policy is good?

  116. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    That Megatower Rockguardz has got to be close to fitting. Would it be worth ordering one to try as their return policy is good?
    Its not in the USA. Mine took forever to arrive but I am so glad I got one. It saved my frame from a nasty nice sized rock. The Rockguardz has a small crack on it so I ordered another one. Well worth the money & the wait.

    Edit: I just posted to let you guys know that the Rockguardz is worth the money for what it is. I don't own the megatower or a 2020 Hightower. I own a 2019 Hightower
    Ride

  117. #917
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    Can anyone recommend a water bottle cage for this frame? Maybe I'm overthinking it but I thought I would check.

    Thanks!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  118. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpzbc View Post
    Can anyone recommend a water bottle cage for this frame? Maybe I'm overthinking it but I thought I would check.

    Thanks!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    The new Santa Cruz bottle cage looks interesting. Both right and left side loading options available, but it's going for $60.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  119. #919
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    The new Santa Cruz bottle cage looks interesting. Both right and left side loading options available, but it's going for $60.
    Ouch! $60

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  120. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpzbc View Post
    Can anyone recommend a water bottle cage for this frame? Maybe I'm overthinking it but I thought I would check.

    Thanks!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Lezyne Flow SL has been great on mine.

  121. #921
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    So i am jus back from Downieville, and I can not be more happy with this bike, I kept it on low setting and I hit few times my pedals but nothing bad, so I think it is going to stay on the low setting for ever!!!. I was playing with the air pressure and for a 215# rider the fork with two tokens and PSI @ 70 and half in the rebound was the perfect spot for me. The rear shox is set at 205 PSI.

  122. #922
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    Does anyone know the frame weight for aluminum, carbon and carbon cc?

  123. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpzbc View Post
    Can anyone recommend a water bottle cage for this frame? Maybe I'm overthinking it but I thought I would check.

    Thanks!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    The Specialized Z-Cage with multi-tool... best bottle cage, never lost a bottle over 10,000km. Also the multi tool is small but very useful, even has a 8mm hex and doesn't rust or corrode like other tools:

    https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/ze...right/p/130121
    2020 SC Hightower v2
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    2018 SC Hightower v1
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  124. #924
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    The Specialized Z-Cage with multi-tool... best bottle cage, never lost a bottle over 10,000km. Also the multi tool is small but very useful, even has a 8mm hex and doesn't rust or corrode like other tools:

    https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/ze...right/p/130121
    x2

    I got the matt black one on my Hightower, works well.

  125. #925
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    my Large CC was 3380gr with axle and seat clamp

  126. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    Lezyne Flow SL has been great on mine.

    I'm going with the Flow or Jenson USA one and maybe some skateboard tape for added security.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation...er-Bottle-Cage

    Anybody using a B-Rad system/adapter for tube/plugs/CO2 on the HT2?

  127. #927
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    Just received a Large Hightower after a month wait. I am running into an issue (at least for me) and was wondering if anyone else has experienced the same. I am pretty anal about how all the cables are run off the bars and usually have to shorten all cables before I throw a leg over the bike. Well the rear brake and shifter cables are cut so short that if you turn the bars to the right no more than a 90į that both cables are tight on the frame head stem. If you turn more than 90į then the cables pull tight and you can feel resistance on the bars. If and when I take a crash and the bars twist to the right I am sure I will torque the cables. The front brake and seat dropper cables are a mess and I will probably have to cut at least 6Ē off each. I canít understand why bike companies or even a shop would let a bike go to the end customer with cables that are a mess.

    Just wondering if anyone else has had tight cables on the Hightower. I will need to go buy new housings and re-route them with a little more length.

  128. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnowBound View Post
    Does anyone know the frame weight for aluminum, carbon and carbon cc?
    https://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/h...l#post14351289

  129. #929
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    Speaking of cable routing, today i learned that while the front triangle has internally molded routing, the rear triangle does not. Putting the brake hose through this seems to be a huge pita without the parktool routing kit or something similar

    the HT1 had external routing for this so no issue. the derailleur cable went OK but its way more flexible.

  130. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Speaking of cable routing, today i learned that while the front triangle has internally molded routing, the rear triangle does not. Putting the brake hose through this seems to be a huge pita without the parktool routing kit or something similar

    the HT1 had external routing for this so no issue. the derailleur cable went OK but its way more flexible.
    You gotta route RD cable from the rear to front.

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  131. #931
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    Quote Originally Posted by boylagz View Post
    You gotta route RD cable from the rear to front.

    Sent from my SM-G973U1 using ****************android_app_mtbr
    yup, (front to back wont work at all), but back to front is still difficult on the brake hose as it's stiff. Personally I ended up using a zip tie that was the right size to stay inside by friction the brake hose as a guide. in the front triangle you can just push the cable and it takes 5s thought. not sure why they didnt do it in the back.

  132. #932
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  133. #933
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Speaking of cable routing, today i learned that while the front triangle has internally molded routing, the rear triangle does not. Putting the brake hose through this seems to be a huge pita without the parktool routing kit or something similar

    the HT1 had external routing for this so no issue. the derailleur cable went OK but its way more flexible.
    I used a little poker tool with a small hook on the end to fish out the brake line. Just get it near the hole on the front of the rear stay and snag that little bugger. And definitely route it back to front.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  134. #934
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    Thanks a bunch boubla!

  135. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hesher123 View Post
    The Specialized Z-Cage with multi-tool... best bottle cage, never lost a bottle over 10,000km. Also the multi tool is small but very useful, even has a 8mm hex and doesn't rust or corrode like other tools:

    https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/ze...right/p/130121
    Iíve used the zee for a while and still is, but itís not really playing well with my polar insulated bottle,

    what bottle are you guys using?

    both my 20 and 24oz bottles donít really fit perfectly!

  136. #936
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    Anyone know the Pantone color they're using on the 'Desert' color scheme...?

  137. #937
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tedh View Post
    I'm going with the Flow or Jenson USA one and maybe some skateboard tape for added security.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation...er-Bottle-Cage

    Anybody using a B-Rad system/adapter for tube/plugs/CO2 on the HT2?
    Ran across this rad setup. If you need to slide it up more, wolftooth makes a small extender for that. 2 co2s, inflater, great tool with chainbreaker, spot for a master link and side load. Going to try it on my Ibis.

    https://ride.lezyne.com/collections/...-bc-flstl-v104
    2020 Ripmo AF

  138. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    I used a little poker tool with a small hook on the end to fish out the brake line. Just get it near the hole on the front of the rear stay and snag that little bugger. And definitely route it back to front.
    This. Rear to front, remove grommet, use a pic....takes 10 seconds. Helps to have a buddy.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  139. #939
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    Look on Amazon. I recall seeing a carbon cage like that for $16 and change.

  140. #940
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    I put this bottle cage on my Chameleon, and it's very secure. Smart design too - you can change it from left or right side entry by flipping the cage on the mount.

    https://www.blackburndesign.com/p/wa...er-bottle-cage

  141. #941
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    while the super deluxe shock is absolutely fine, and i dont think i'll change it (on the HT1 the RS shock was pretty bad.. on the HT2 its quite great actually), i was curious if the people who wanted to swap for an DPX2 (or another shock) did, and what their findings were. There was a bit of chatter about this a while back, but according to my search no feedback haha.

  142. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    Iíve used the zee for a while and still is, but itís not really playing well with my polar insulated bottle,

    what bottle are you guys using?

    both my 20 and 24oz bottles donít really fit perfectly!
    I am using the Specialized Purist bottle.
    Last edited by Hesher123; 4 Weeks Ago at 12:32 AM.
    2020 SC Hightower v2
    2019 Spec. Stumpjumper
    2018 SC Hightower v1
    2017 Scott Spark 930
    2004 Spec. Stumpjumper

  143. #943
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    Pulled the trigger on the HTv2 Saturday. My lbs happened to have a large carbon S in blue which I was keyed in on, so I purchased it Friday and it was built and ready for pick-up Saturday morning. I've ridden it everyday since on mostly tech/drop stuff and a couple of days sessioning a DH jump/flow trail.

    I started off at factory tuning setting for my 180lb w/ gear weight. Compression and rebound feel excellent, with lots of mid-stroke support. However, I set it to High off the bat, since when I demo'd in low I was pedal striking all of the time. Pedal strikes are basically gone and climbing feels improved and excellent. Descending feels great as well, but the rear curve definitely seems more linear. However, I bottom out on any aggressive drops even at 3'. Bumped up fork to 90psi and added another 5psi out back. Platform is very firm and I'm still bottoming the rear here and there.

    At this point I'm thinking at least 1 token rear and maybe one front.

    Otherwise, bike feels incredible. Pedals so well and feels so laterally solid/stiff. My only HUGE complaint is the DT 370 hubs.....WTF? These things are ROUGH. terrible engagement and horrific *PING* noises here and there.

    I think I saw somewhere there is an upgrade star ratchet for this hub? Anyone have details on that?

    I wasn't psyched on the DHR II's at first, but they really aren't too bad. I usually run DHF front and something 💨 er rear, but this set up rolls nicely.

  144. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissGuh View Post
    Pulled the trigger on the HTv2 Saturday. My lbs happened to have a large carbon S in blue which I was keyed in on, so I purchased it Friday and it was built and ready for pick-up Saturday morning. I've ridden it everyday since on mostly tech/drop stuff and a couple of days sessioning a DH jump/flow trail.

    I started off at factory tuning setting for my 180lb w/ gear weight. Compression and rebound feel excellent, with lots of mid-stroke support. However, I set it to High off the bat, since when I demo'd in low I was pedal striking all of the time. Pedal strikes are basically gone and climbing feels improved and excellent. Descending feels great as well, but the rear curve definitely seems more linear. However, I bottom out on any aggressive drops even at 3'. Bumped up fork to 90psi and added another 5psi out back. Platform is very firm and I'm still bottoming the rear here and there.

    At this point I'm thinking at least 1 token rear and maybe one front.

    Otherwise, bike feels incredible. Pedals so well and feels so laterally solid/stiff. My only HUGE complaint is the DT 370 hubs.....WTF? These things are ROUGH. terrible engagement and horrific *PING* noises here and there.

    I think I saw somewhere there is an upgrade star ratchet for this hub? Anyone have details on that?

    I wasn't psyched on the DHR II's at first, but they really aren't too bad. I usually run DHF front and something 💨 er rear, but this set up rolls nicely.
    I had to add 1.5 tokens to shock and 1 token to fork myself due to bottoming rear and going thru travel too easy on fork, even with +15psi per rider weight recommendations in low, more progressive shock position. So if you are a little heavier than the average 170 lb rider and or ride fairly hard, you will likely need to add a token. Compared to HT1 i have found the HT2 to be more linear and used all travel a bit too easy with occasional bottom out at 30% sag and only 1 stock token. 32-33% sag with 2.5 tokens (RS Gnar Dog) seems to be the ticket for me
    Ride On!

  145. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I had to add 1.5 tokens to shock and 1 token to fork myself due to bottoming rear and going thru travel too easy on fork, even with +15psi per rider weight recommendations in low, more progressive shock position. So if you are a little heavier than the average 170 lb rider and or ride fairly hard, you will likely need to add a token. Compared to HT1 i have found the HT2 to be more linear and used all travel a bit too easy with occasional bottom out at 30% sag and only 1 stock token. 32-33% sag with 2.5 tokens (RS Gnar Dog) seems to be the ticket for me
    Have you considered putting the Megneg can onto the shock?

  146. #946
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissGuh View Post
    Pulled the trigger on the HTv2 Saturday. My lbs happened to have a large carbon S in blue which I was keyed in on, so I purchased it Friday and it was built and ready for pick-up Saturday morning. I've ridden it everyday since on mostly tech/drop stuff and a couple of days sessioning a DH jump/flow trail.

    I started off at factory tuning setting for my 180lb w/ gear weight. Compression and rebound feel excellent, with lots of mid-stroke support. However, I set it to High off the bat, since when I demo'd in low I was pedal striking all of the time. Pedal strikes are basically gone and climbing feels improved and excellent. Descending feels great as well, but the rear curve definitely seems more linear. However, I bottom out on any aggressive drops even at 3'. Bumped up fork to 90psi and added another 5psi out back. Platform is very firm and I'm still bottoming the rear here and there.

    At this point I'm thinking at least 1 token rear and maybe one front.

    Otherwise, bike feels incredible. Pedals so well and feels so laterally solid/stiff. My only HUGE complaint is the DT 370 hubs.....WTF? These things are ROUGH. terrible engagement and horrific *PING* noises here and there.

    I think I saw somewhere there is an upgrade star ratchet for this hub? Anyone have details on that?

    I wasn't psyched on the DHR II's at first, but they really aren't too bad. I usually run DHF front and something er rear, but this set up rolls nicely.
    agree with you on the hubs, unfortunately only the 350s have the ratchet upgrade ability, no option for 370s as far as I know. Iím going to upgrade to 350s or 240s next season


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  147. #947
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    agree with you on the hubs, unfortunately only the 350s have the ratchet upgrade ability, no option for 370s as far as I know. Iím going to upgrade to 350s or 240s next season


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    Pretty sure you can remove the drive of the 370 hub and replace it with the ratchet from the 350.

  148. #948
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frosty2019 View Post
    Pretty sure you can remove the drive of the 370 hub and replace it with the ratchet from the 350.
    didnít know that, but is that just lip stick on a pig? ie itís still a 370 hub right, is the cost that much more attractive than buying new hubs (i havenít looked)


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  149. #949
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    You can also add it to the 240s hubs, which I have :-)

  150. #950
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    Does anybody have any experience with the aluminum models? I didn't see much skimming the forum.. Coming from a 27LB specialized hardtail, and wondering how the 34+ lb AL models would ride. nobody has an aluminum model to demo I don't think, and don't plan on splurging for a carbon model.

  151. #951
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    i demoed an alu model at mikesbikes in CA and it looked alright, except:

    - its a bit heavier
    - it was very poorly assembled for some reason - wheels werent true, shifting was bad, etc., I don't know if it was due to SantaCruz or Mikesbike (im guessing the wheels are trued by SC and the bike is assembled by MB, so maybe both at fault lol)


    I found the componentry to be pretty good for the price, even the cheaper fork worked surprisingly well. i also found that the weight, while noticeable, isnt the end of the world. The stiffness of the alu didnt feel bad at all. I didnt test enough to tell if the bike was as laterally stiff as the carbon version or not

    What i dont know is if it's good value compared to other bikes you could get at that price point (commencal's alu are very nice, YT has carbon, etc.)

  152. #952
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    didnít know that, but is that just lip stick on a pig? ie itís still a 370 hub right, is the cost that much more attractive than buying new hubs (i havenít looked)


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    Hereís a video showing how itís done.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_XpRZCLTX4

    Changing to the star ratchet allows you to go from 18t engagement on the 370 to the 36 or 54 tooth ratchet for better engagement. Definitely an improvement if you do.

    That said, unless you have access to the DT Swiss tooling to remove the pawl drive ring and install the star ratchet drive ring, itís going to be an expensive exercise. The cost for those two tools, the new freehub and star ratchet kit (particularly the 36 or 54 tooth version) is going to end up costing you $300-$400. There are non OEM tools on eBay that are cheaper, but I donít know about their quality.

    It would be likely be cheaper to buy a whole 350 hub and swap it over, or even just buy a new wheel with a 350 hub.

  153. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    i demoed an alu model at mikesbikes in CA and it looked alright, except:

    - its a bit heavier
    - it was very poorly assembled for some reason - wheels werent true, shifting was bad, etc., I don't know if it was due to SantaCruz or Mikesbike (im guessing the wheels are trued by SC and the bike is assembled by MB, so maybe both at fault lol)


    I found the componentry to be pretty good for the price, even the cheaper fork worked surprisingly well. i also found that the weight, while noticeable, isnt the end of the world. The stiffness of the alu didnt feel bad at all. I didnt test enough to tell if the bike was as laterally stiff as the carbon version or not

    What i dont know is if it's good value compared to other bikes you could get at that price point (commencal's alu are very nice, YT has carbon, etc.)
    I appreciate the info. Which Mike's Bikes was it at?

  154. #954
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock.man View Post
    Hereís a video showing how itís done.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_XpRZCLTX4

    Changing to the star ratchet allows you to go from 18t engagement on the 370 to the 36 or 54 tooth ratchet for better engagement. Definitely an improvement if you do.

    That said, unless you have access to the DT Swiss tooling to remove the pawl drive ring and install the star ratchet drive ring, itís going to be an expensive exercise. The cost for those two tools, the new freehub and star ratchet kit (particularly the 36 or 54 tooth version) is going to end up costing you $300-$400. There are non OEM tools on eBay that are cheaper, but I donít know about their quality.

    It would be likely be cheaper to buy a whole 350 hub and swap it over, or even just buy a new wheel with a 350 hub.
    yeah i wasnít planning to buy just the hubs and rebuild the wheels, would just buy the reserves with the 350 or 240. Big $$ but I donít have reserves now so will get it all ahead of next season


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  155. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annadel Adam View Post
    I appreciate the info. Which Mike's Bikes was it at?
    Sausalito! They'll let you test it for "free" (well for 1USD actually) on the parking lot behind the shop for +- as long as you want. Theres a mini trail and curbs, being careful you can test quite a bit if you already know how the carbon version feels (if not, id recommend a real ride)

  156. #956
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    Yeah, think I'll just part with these 370's. Been running i9's since 2006. It's gotten hard to ride on other stuff after getting so use to them.

    jgusta, I ordered up some tokens and I'll be messing about with them shortly. Should get me sorted.

  157. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Have you considered putting the Megneg can onto the shock?
    I havenít nor know what that is, but will check it out. Overall, Super Deluxe shock feels pretty good with added token and a bit more sag. Likely with add a Luftkappe to the Lyrik Ultimate for even more mid-stroke support and more bottom out control without having to add more tokens or compression. Big negative chamber cans are nice!
    Ride On!

  158. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    while the super deluxe shock is absolutely fine, and i dont think i'll change it (on the HT1 the RS shock was pretty bad.. on the HT2 its quite great actually), i was curious if the people who wanted to swap for an DPX2 (or another shock) did, and what their findings were. There was a bit of chatter about this a while back, but according to my search no feedback haha.
    Hightower V2-dpx2.jpg

    Some feedback on the HT2 with DPX2 for those interested, was just waiting as I didn't want to interrupt the bottle cage discussion, LOL (King Cage for the win BTW). Shock came off a Yeti Sb130, sent to Fox with instructions to re-valve for HT2 as initial testing with SB130 tune felt harsh. Here is the tune detail they provided for the HT2 and my weight (195lbs RTR):
    CLH001
    RLA019
    A2L-M+
    1 red and 1 green negative volume reducer
    .6 volume reducer

    Testing with re-valve is so far positive. Feels slightly more supportive and not bottoming as much as with the Super Deluxe (w/ Gnardog installed), but still as compliant on the small bumps/chatter. Running about 235 psi Approx 30% sag, 2-4 clicks LSC from full open, 6-7 Rebound from closed. ShockWiz seemed to like it as well, 100% tuning score on fast, steep, rough, some big drops and jumps (a couple over-shoots to flat). It wanted less LSC/HSC on the slower, flatter terrain, but kind of expected that. All in all, I think I like it better than the Super Deluxe.

  159. #959
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    Took advantage of lazy day and applied the invisiframe on my hightower[ATTACH=CONFIG]1288733
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hightower V2-img_1253.jpg  


  160. #960
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    Hightower V2-20191025_122927.jpg

    I know weights have been posted elsewhere in this thread.

    Just received my large CC frame. Weighed with seat collar, no trough axle.

    After adding all mountain frame guard protection: 7.34#

    So it begins!

    Hightower V2-20191026_174610.jpg

    Hightower V2-20191026_174853.jpg
    Last edited by mlx john; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:48 PM.
    2020 SC Hightower

  161. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I know weights have been posted elsewhere in this thread.

    Just received my large CC frame. Weighed with seat collar, no trough axle.

    After adding all mountain frame guard protection: 7.34#

    So it begins!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thats about what mine weighs too - just a tad over 30 lbs.


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    Hi all, first post! 5'6" / 167cm which puts me on a Medium Hightower. Demoed it yesterday and it felt alright, a little big/long. I'm torn between this and the SB130 which have remarkably similar geometry. Interestingly, a lot of people seem to be sizing down on the SB130 and I demoed the SB130 in a Small and enjoyed the playfulness in the smaller size. Is anyone around my size downsizing to a Small on the Hightower?

  163. #963
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Hi all, first post! 5'6" / 167cm which puts me on a Medium Hightower. Demoed it yesterday and it felt alright, a little big/long. I'm torn between this and the SB130 which have remarkably similar geometry. Interestingly, a lot of people seem to be sizing down on the SB130 and I demoed the SB130 in a Small and enjoyed the playfulness in the smaller size. Is anyone around my size downsizing to a Small on the Hightower?
    I'm a little taller than you at 5'9". I demo'd a medium SB130 which felt great. Amazing bike in terms of pedalling efficiency. Ended up buying a large hightower 2 which also seems to fit me very well. Took a little while to get used to the newer-school geometry but I'm loving the bike now. I think I'm a medium on yetis and large on SC's. So your small/medium between the two brands makes sense. FWIW, Yeti seems to be having so many issues with the switch infinity system in terms of reliability that I just steered away. Again, amazing bike but their suspension seems overly complicated. The hightower kicks ass!

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  164. #964
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fassn8 View Post
    So your small/medium between the two brands makes sense. FWIW, Yeti seems to be having so many issues with the switch infinity system in terms of reliability that I just steered away. Again, amazing bike but their suspension seems overly complicated. The hightower kicks ass!

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    Thanks so much for the feedback! This was definitely true in my experience for other SC bikes, but the newer bikes (Tallboy, Hightower, MT) seem to be pretty close to Yeti's sizing. So I'm figuring, if I like the Small in SB130, would I prefer Small on Hightower? https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/y...r-2020-m-high/

    FYI, I'm in Colorado where it seems like the Switch Infinity works fine, but it sounds like it may be more of a concern in wetter areas?

  165. #965
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Thanks so much for the feedback! This was definitely true in my experience for other SC bikes, but the newer bikes (Tallboy, Hightower, MT) seem to be pretty close to Yeti's sizing. So I'm figuring, if I like the Small in SB130, would I prefer Small on Hightower? https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/y...r-2020-m-high/

    FYI, I'm in Colorado where it seems like the Switch Infinity works fine, but it sounds like it may be more of a concern in wetter areas?
    I think the sizing charts on each of the company's websites are pretty accurate. I was right on the cusp of M/L for the hightower and went with the large as it just felt more stable on downhills.

    Yeti makes amazing bikes. Seems like you just have to stay up on the SI maintenance (like any high-end bike). I just love the lower link vpp feel. Was on specialized FSR bikes for the past 6 years. Hard to find a bad bike these days.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  166. #966
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Hi all, first post! 5'6" / 167cm which puts me on a Medium Hightower. Demoed it yesterday and it felt alright, a little big/long. I'm torn between this and the SB130 which have remarkably similar geometry. Interestingly, a lot of people seem to be sizing down on the SB130 and I demoed the SB130 in a Small and enjoyed the playfulness in the smaller size. Is anyone around my size downsizing to a Small on the Hightower?
    5í6Ē and went with a S Tallboy 4 which has similar geo to the HT2. I came from a M HTLT. No regrets the S sizing on the TB4 feels spot on for me and is nice and nimble.

    Santa Cruz Hightower LT
    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  167. #967
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    5í6Ē and went with a S Tallboy 4 which has similar geo to the HT2. I came from a M HTLT. No regrets the S sizing on the TB4 feels spot on for me and is nice and nimble.
    Thanks, that helps. I really liked the feel of the lower link vpp and was hoping a Medium would be perfect but I think it is worth it to try the Small.

  168. #968
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Thanks, that helps. I really liked the feel of the lower link vpp and was hoping a Medium would be perfect but I think it is worth it to try the Small.
    FYI Iím running it with a 50mm stem and 170 cranks. Your best bet is to try and demo both sizes. A lot of it is personal preference and riding style.

    Santa Cruz Hightower LT
    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  169. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Hi all, first post! 5'6" / 167cm which puts me on a Medium Hightower. Demoed it yesterday and it felt alright, a little big/long. I'm torn between this and the SB130 which have remarkably similar geometry. Interestingly, a lot of people seem to be sizing down on the SB130 and I demoed the SB130 in a Small and enjoyed the playfulness in the smaller size. Is anyone around my size downsizing to a Small on the Hightower?
    I'm 5'5" and I demoed both SB130 / HT2 Small and Medium size. The Hightower M was the best fit of all 4, I'm pretty comfortable both standing and seated on the bike, and still able to use a 150mm dropper.

  170. #970
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Thanks, that helps. I really liked the feel of the lower link vpp and was hoping a Medium would be perfect but I think it is worth it to try the Small.
    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    FYI Iím running it with a 50mm stem and 170 cranks. Your best bet is to try and demo both sizes. A lot of it is personal preference and riding style.
    Definitely demo both sizes. I could not pull the trigger until I tried back to back both S and M, I had previously demoed the M size for a couple of days and even tough size seemed good I wanted to double check by riding back to back both sizes!

  171. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I'm 5'5" and I demoed both SB130 / HT2 Small and Medium size. The Hightower M was the best fit of all 4, I'm pretty comfortable both standing and seated on the bike, and still able to use a 150mm dropper.
    Super helpful! So I take it you thought the S SB130 was too small and the M too big? When I demoed the S SB130 I was thinking there would be no way I'd want to go any smaller and the geometry of the HT is slightly smaller than the 130.

  172. #972
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverpnix View Post
    Super helpful! So I take it you thought the S SB130 was too small and the M too big? When I demoed the S SB130 I was thinking there would be no way I'd want to go any smaller and the geometry of the HT is slightly smaller than the 130.
    Mostly seated climbing on the sb130 s with a 40 stem felt I was on top of the wheel, and M while I did not made any adjustments I had hand fatigue on a short ride! both felt okay standing. but Iíd definitely go with the S sb130 which was the second best for me after the M hightower!

    other then the yeti issues recently another things I considered was that a M frame has more space for a bottle, and itís easier to sell, that plus the fact it was really the best fit was a no brainer to go M hightower!

  173. #973
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    Does nobody have the weight of the Aluminum Frame in size Lage of the Hightower V2.
    Also my local store couldn't tell me anything...

  174. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by R0htabak View Post
    Does nobody have the weight of the Aluminum Frame in size Lage of the Hightower V2.
    Also my local store couldn't tell me anything...
    https://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/h...l#post14351289

  175. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    not much space but on my M frame I can flip both chips removing only the rear shock bolt!
    So can I (on my large).
    2020 SC Hightower

  176. #976
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    I'm 6'1" on an XL Hightower

    Started with Mezzer forks at 160mm and Superdeluxe shock set at 200psi for 32% sag.

    First ride the bike just felt odd and after about 4 or 5 rides I wasn't feeling it at all. Bike felt sluggish when pedaling and I wasn't finding the confidence to push the front at all. I tried different combinations of pressures front and rear but couldn't find the balance I like and used all the rear travel very easily with pressures that gave good sag numbers.

    I then fitted a MegNeg to the shock and at 230psi got 32mm sag. The MegNeg has really helped the back end sit higher with the added mid stroke support and I'm using all the travel with no issues at places I should be. Bike is pedaling much better and I'm able to lean on the front much more with the added confidence and changed front end bias.

    Big fan of the MegNeg.
    Last edited by robmac48; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:22 PM.

  177. #977
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    Hi, first question in this forum. I am trying to decide components for my ordered Hightower. Leaning towards XT drivetrain, but can't understand if I should choose 8100 with 52 mm chain line, 172 mm q factor or 8120 with 55 mm /178 mm. As I understand 52 mm is same chain line as eagle, but shimano states 8100 as non boost /boost and the 8120 as boost so I am a bit confused. Anyone here that happens to have the new Shimano 12sp installed?

  178. #978
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    Yes I do, IĎm running the new XTR FCM9120 with 52mm chainline, 168mm Q. Both spec XTR cranks have 52mm chainlines.
    52mm works perfectly for most boost bikes, which also appeals to the M8100.
    In case there is a problem with wider chainstays, where the 8100 could get in contact with, go for the 8120 (shouldnít be with the Hightower2).
    For superboost there is the 8130 with 181mm Q and 56.5mm chainline.
    So to sum it up, for a boost frame, 99% of the time the FCM8100 should work perfectly, in case you need more frameclearance, use 8120. 8130 for Superboost.

  179. #979
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    go 8100, I use sram cranks that are 168q factor. the 8120 seems to be a little too much!

  180. #980
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    Blue v2

    My Batmobile!Hightower V2-7d5f50fb-27b2-45aa-9617-7fe4e4e6380b.jpg
    Ride On!

  181. #981
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBert18 View Post
    Yes I do, IĎm running the new XTR FCM9120 with 52mm chainline, 168mm Q. Both spec XTR cranks have 52mm chainlines.
    52mm works perfectly for most boost bikes, which also appeals to the M8100.
    In case there is a problem with wider chainstays, where the 8100 could get in contact with, go for the 8120 (shouldnít be with the Hightower2).
    For superboost there is the 8130 with 181mm Q and 56.5mm chainline.
    So to sum it up, for a boost frame, 99% of the time the FCM8100 should work perfectly, in case you need more frameclearance, use 8120. 8130 for Superboost.
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    go 8100, I use sram cranks that are 168q factor. the 8120 seems to be a little too much!
    Thanks. I will go 8100 then. Yes I guess a narrower q is never wrong.

  182. #982
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    Anyone build up a blue/desert aluminum model yet? Care to share what build and weight or maybe a photo or two. I haven't seen one in the wild yet.

  183. #983
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    Anyone build up a blue/desert aluminum model yet? Care to share what build and weight or maybe a photo or two. I haven't seen one in the wild yet.
    I'm also curious. I almost bought a Carbon S but went with the Ripmo AF for the tire clearance, coil compatibility, durability, extra travel (could be a con to some), price and weight being only 0.85 lbs heavier than the HT2 C frame. I'd love to see the weight of a carbon S with some beefier parts like Assegais/DHF 2.5s. Still thinking about that blue carbon S HT2. Nice bike!
    2020 Ripmo AF

  184. #984
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    I've put that somewhere before I think but I did test ride the Hightower 2020 L Aluminum build. That was the D build.

    It was just a 30min ride but that's better than nothing, and I do ride a carbon C frame (and factory tested the CC frame on release week a while back).

    Here's my summary:

    - The bike's a little heavier but I barely noticed it. It was a short ride and I'm sure you notice it much more on long climbs, but on a short ride I wouldn't be able to tell if it made a really noticeable difference (I usually reliably feel a difference every 500gr you add, on long climbs). So that's good anyway, I was even a little surprised by that.

    - If you're interested by that, I found the D build to be just fine. If I was on a budget I'd seriously consider it.

    Details on the D build: Specially surprised how the cheaper fork worked just fine - same for the dropper, never used the RF ones before and while it wasnt as smooth as my Fox Transfer, it was plenty fine, and dare I say it, better than the Reverb I've used. The remote control for it was a little weird looking and not my favorite but worked fine. Everything else was really fine (Eagle SX feels like the other eagle stuff, Sram Guide T felt like the other Guide brakes)
    Wheels were a bit meh, but not terrible. Mainly they weren't well assembled, which could be due to a variety of reasons and if you buy the bike you'd just ask the bike shop to fix that up. The Fox Float DPS felt relatively similar to the superdeluxe, which also surprised me. It however didn't pedal just as well and I'm guessing it would be overwhelmed faster during a real aggressive descent. This might also be fixable by setting it up differently, the shop didn't exactly fine tune things for me ;-)

    - I didn't feel a different in stiffness on the frame, but I'm sure a longer test could feel different there. I find the C and CC frame to be significantly stiffer in the rear end compared to my HT1, which is a great improvement. The Alu model felt more stiff than my HT1 as well.

    - The frame being thinner/less bulky actually look cool in person. Color was the highland blue and it looked exactly like the carbon's color, if you're wondering about that. The finish (welds) was quite good as well, I suspect many that don't look closely or aren't like "us" will think its a carbon frame.

    A note on weight, as per a previous post:
    - 4.205 kg AL frame, size L, no shock
    - 3.126 kg C frame, size L, no shock

    That's 1079gram or 2.37lbs difference, not 0.85lbs! Note also that for the D build, the Fox float DPS is slightly lighter than the Rockshox Superdeluxe (but the weight difference is minimal)

    Hope that helps people wondering about the alu frame, at least a little bit. Wish I had more hours on it, but that's all I could get hehe.

  185. #985
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    Blue V2

    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    Anyone build up a blue/desert aluminum model yet? Care to share what build and weight or maybe a photo or two. I haven't seen one in the wild yet.
    Mine with 6 weeks and about 70,000ft of vert on it.
    Large CC frame, Lyrik Ultimate 150 (likely 160 next season), Shimano XTR/XT 11spd, NOX carbon DH rims w/Hope Pro 4 hubs and bladed spokes. Next carbon cranks w/32 oval ring, OneUp carbon bar, Saint brakes w/180 rotors, Easton 40 stem, ODI grips, crappy Reverb 170 post, Maxxis Assagai/DHR tires. Weight= about 30 lbs on bathroom scale.Hightower V2-4fe9c032-0a03-4632-a4b9-532dc00bc874.jpg

    Edit: sorry just saw your request for blue Alu build, mine is CC
    Ride On!

  186. #986
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Mine with 6 weeks and about 70,000ft of vert on it.
    Large CC frame, Lyrik Ultimate 150 (likely 160 next season), Shimano XTR/XT 11spd, NOX carbon DH rims w/Hope Pro 4 hubs and bladed spokes. Next carbon cranks w/32 oval ring, OneUp carbon bar, Saint brakes w/180 rotors, Easton 40 stem, ODI grips, crappy Reverb 170 post, Maxxis Assagai/DHR tires. Weight= about 30 lbs on bathroom scale.Click image for larger version. 

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    Edit: sorry just saw your request for blue Alu build, mine is CC
    Damn, that's light tho!

  187. #987
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    Good writeup of the alloy. It'll be a great bike for some. To clarify, the 0.85 lbs I mentioned was the difference between a C HT2 and Ripmo AF frame.

  188. #988
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Good writeup of the alloy. It'll be a great bike for some. To clarify, the 0.85 lbs I mentioned was the difference between a C HT2 and Ripmo AF frame.
    I was AF curious as well before going w/the HT. My large cc frame with seat collar and shock was right at 7.25#. The AF (medium I think) is 8.25#

    Respectable for such a burly aluminum bike.

    My current setup w/pedals weighs 30.67#(including 4 piston xt's, Fox 36) Meaning that an AF with my components would come in at about 32#

    Outstanding weight for such a capable aluminum bike!
    2020 SC Hightower

  189. #989
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    I find it interesting when people say they can feel 1 lb of non-rolling weight (not wheels or tires) difference on a bike. That's only a 3% difference on the bike or 0.47% of the total avg bike/rider weight. 16 oz in a water bottle is 1 lb so those people can tell if their bottle is full or empty just based on bike feel?

  190. #990
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    I was AF curious as well before going w/the HT. My large cc frame with seat collar and shock was right at 7.25#. The AF (medium I think) is 8.25#

    Respectable for such a burly aluminum bike.

    My current setup w/pedals weighs 30.67#(including 4 piston xt's, Fox 36) Meaning that an AF with my components would come in at about 32#

    Outstanding weight for such a capable aluminum bike!
    Yeah, not bad. It swayed me to switch although I later demo'd the HT2 and loved it. Pros and cons to each bike and build kit. The AF builds are beefy so there's room to trim there. Assegais for example, are 0.75 lbs more than the DHR2 at the worst possible place. The DVO is 1/4 lb more than a 36 but if you factor in that it's got a built in fender and initial travel is a coil spring, it's not bad. Travel and geo are almost a match to the HT2 if you've got a 160 fork on the HT2. 7 mm more out back on the AF isn't much.

  191. #991
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight70 View Post
    Damn, that's light tho!
    Thx TW70! New V2 build with pretty much all same stuff off my old V1 Hightower with exception of Lyrik instead of Pike ended up being about 2 lbs heavier on the nose. Although heavier, the ride climbs as well up long slogs and descends like a bat out of hell!
    Ride On!

  192. #992
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    has anyone up the travel to 160mm on the fork? What were the results like?

  193. #993
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFlex View Post
    has anyone up the travel to 160mm on the fork? What were the results like?
    I'm running a 160mm lyrik but that's all I've run on it... no complains, honestly I didn't noticed much difference compared to the demo bikes with the 150mm. I might end up lowering to 150mm since I'm really short and I'm feeling the stack height is getting too tall! Other than that I don't feel any negatives with vague front wheel during climbs or anything like that

  194. #994
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    Thanks for the mini review boubla.

  195. #995
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    Wondering for anyone with a stock HT2 setup, do you have a 29" lyrik with 44mm offset, or a 27.5" lyrik?

    I'm asking because I think there aren't any 29" with 44mm offset otherwise available. I think the only real difference between the 2 (boost) forks is clearance (well other than offset), but I don't really know.

  196. #996
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Wondering for anyone with a stock HT2 setup, do you have a 29" lyrik with 44mm offset, or a 27.5" lyrik?

    I'm asking because I think there aren't any 29" with 44mm offset otherwise available. I think the only real difference between the 2 (boost) forks is clearance (well other than offset), but I don't really know.
    lyrik is 42mm offset afaik, fox 36 is 44mm. the demo bike I rode x01 had a 42mm lyrik 29Ē, SC also says recommended 42 or 44mm clearly a reference to both rs and fox short offset forks

  197. #997
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    lyrik is 42mm offset afaik, fox 36 is 44mm. the demo bike I rode x01 had a 42mm lyrik 29Ē, SC also says recommended 42 or 44mm clearly a reference to both rs and fox short offset forks
    oh yeah you're right. I think that solves it

    note: Im mainly trying to figure out what the difference is between a Lyrik 29" and a 27.5" fork with the same specs. I suspect its just the clearance (might affect stiffness?)

  198. #998
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    Does anyone else find the SC recommended air pressure setting to be too light? I'm 78kg (172lb) and I'm currently running 190psi in the shock with one added volume spacer. SC would recommend I run about 177psi for my weight. I'm still bottoming pretty hard and sitting at about 31-32% sag. Has anyone tried running 3 volume spacers?

  199. #999
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    Quote Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
    Does anyone else find the SC recommended air pressure setting to be too light? I'm 78kg (172lb) and I'm currently running 190psi in the shock with one added volume spacer. SC would recommend I run about 177psi for my weight. I'm still bottoming pretty hard and sitting at about 31-32% sag. Has anyone tried running 3 volume spacers?
    I'm about 193 in riding gear. Running 200psi w/one volume spacer in the low geometry setting (which is a bit more progressive).

    Are you running a super deluxe with the low speed compression? I have that set 5 clicks from full closed. 4 clicks of rebound from full open. I'm coming close to bottoming out on my last ride with a really rocky descent with a good size drop.

    Are you cycling the shock every 50 psi until you reach your desired pressure?

    My current setup feels pretty good, though I might try adding one more volume spacer to see how that feels.

    I've found that I prefer the lower geometry setting, feels more in the bike. High setting feels more on top of the bike. Still climbs great. It was the opposite on my '17 Fuel EX, I prefered the high geometry setting on that bike.

    BTW, glad to be back on a Santa Cruz. My favorite bikes (until now) in order: the Tallboy LTc, over-forked with a Fox 36 150mm, then my Tallboy 2, followed by the Fuel EX, then my 5010cc. I mainly prefered the FEX over the 5010 because I just love the 29er wheel size, but I will say that the 5010 was a lot of fun to ride.

    Two other bikes I've owned in the past worth mentioning: a carbon 26er Stumpy which I could not get rid of fast enough, A 2010 Remedy 26er that was actually great. I don't know why that particular Stumpy sucked, I've ridden other Specialized bikes that I thought were pretty good.

    The Hightower has a little bit of that TB LTc DNA, but so much better. The geometry is on point.
    2020 SC Hightower

  200. #1000
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    Quote Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
    Does anyone else find the SC recommended air pressure setting to be too light? I'm 78kg (172lb) and I'm currently running 190psi in the shock with one added volume spacer. SC would recommend I run about 177psi for my weight. I'm still bottoming pretty hard and sitting at about 31-32% sag. Has anyone tried running 3 volume spacers?
    One token in can is bottom out city unless a lightweight I guess. I was running up to 260psi and still bottoming occasionally. Went to 2 tokens and little less pressure definitely better. Settled on 2.5 tokens (240psi) at 210-214lbs rider weight and feels pretty good to me and still use all travel when riding hard with some hits. No low speed compression (unless climbing) for me since takes away the small bump too much especially with running higher pressures. Debonair/bigger negative chambers cans like higher air pressures to perform best I noticed or else will blow thru travel way too easily. Noticed with new Lyrik fork as well with having to run 130 psi, two tokens with 2-3 clicks LSC to control dive some and 1-2 clicks HSC for the hits.
    Ride On!

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