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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    Yeah unkitted im 130lbs so a light weight rider. Ran pikes for the last 6 years and never thought I needed a stiffer fork but would like as responsive a fork as possible when it comes to chatter and repetitive small hits because I tend to find my weight struggles to get forks to respond. 170g is a lot of weight to save when I'm trying to keep weight down as much as possible to get as close to my bronson build as possible, I dont really understand why the maverick's are being spec'd with lyriks then when most female riders are going to be on the lighterweight side. Equally I'm an above average rider who hits some pretty gnarly tuff and pretty steep stuff and sometimes long intensive runs but if the internals are identical I dont see what the point is!
    Maybe do a coil upgrade? I know of a few featherweight riders who had great results by going coil.

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    Yeah unkitted im 130lbs so a light weight rider. Ran pikes for the last 6 years and never thought I needed a stiffer fork but would like as responsive a fork as possible when it comes to chatter and repetitive small hits because I tend to find my weight struggles to get forks to respond. 170g is a lot of weight to save when I'm trying to keep weight down as much as possible to get as close to my bronson build as possible
    Yeah - definitely go with the Pike if you're only 130 lbs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    I dont really understand why the maverick's are being spec'd with lyriks then when most female riders are going to be on the lighterweight side.
    I'm not sure what drove their product managers on that decision, but perhaps it's a matter of sticking with a uniform build for cost or logistics? Ideally, they'd spec Pikes on the small and medium builds and Lyriks on the L, XL and XXL for both Maverick and Santa Cruz. That'd tailor the weight and stiffness of the fork to rider weight more closely, at least.

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight70 View Post
    Maybe do a coil upgrade? I know of a few featherweight riders who had great results by going coil.
    Yes.
    I am 140lbs and the only way to get my fork or shock to work right for me was either going custom tuned air or coil.
    I prefer coil these days for it's long service intervals and consistency.

  4. #604
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    Anyone upgrading their fork let me know. I have a line a C R build that comes with a Yari, would like to upgrade to something better like a Lyrik.

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Anyone upgrading their fork let me know. I have a line a C R build that comes with a Yari, would like to upgrade to something better like a Lyrik.
    I would consider selling my Lyrik if you're interested. I have the Lyrik that came on the desert/orange build. It has probably ten rides on it at this point but zero noticeable wear and tear and I did not cut the steerer tube down at all.

    I'm mostly satisfied with it, so the offer would have to be reasonable but I'd consider it. PM if you're serious.

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Anyone upgrading their fork let me know. I have a line a C R build that comes with a Yari, would like to upgrade to something better like a Lyrik.
    I had that build too since it was the only available option at the time, which now has most parts swapped over from previous build.

    I installed a Charger 2.1 RTC3 Damper in the Yari making it a Lyric. Cost $250, and the upgrade was extremely noticeable with the LSC on the Charger. Perfect upgrade to a Yari.
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  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Anyone upgrading their fork let me know. I have a line a C R build that comes with a Yari, would like to upgrade to something better like a Lyrik.
    canít you install the push hc97 on it?

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Anyone upgrading their fork let me know. I have a line a C R build that comes with a Yari, would like to upgrade to something better like a Lyrik.
    Why not just swap the dampening cartridge on the Yari to match a Lyric? Cheaper than buying a new fork...
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  9. #609
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    Thanks for the replies guys, I didnít realize I could modify it. If thatís the case that will save some money. Anyone have links to the parts/kit to improve the Yari fork?

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Thanks for the replies guys, I didnít realize I could modify it. If thatís the case that will save some money. Anyone have links to the parts/kit to improve the Yari fork?
    I believe you need this 00.4020.170.000

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=99051

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I believe you need this 00.4020.170.000

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=99051
    Before I would drop over $300 on a RS cartridge, I would spend another 100 & get a custom tuned cart that will transform your fork. Rockshox Lyrik and Yari


  12. #612
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    Hightower V2

    what causes a blown shock? faulty damper? i brought my HT2 in for its first tune up...iíd definitely ridden it hard but no jumping etc... and the shock had a squeak and perhaps you could hear the air pushing around (like a pump) but i donít have a trained ear for these things. Just curious, iím sure it could be a number of things.


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  13. #613
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    Ordering up a HT2 and a Maverick for the Mrs and debating a switch to a Fox DPX2. Anyone tried this and/or did you need a shock modification? SC says the DPX2 isn't tuned for the new suspension curves and not sure what the best approach is. Many thanks.

  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tedh View Post
    Ordering up a HT2 and a Maverick for the Mrs and debating a switch to a Fox DPX2. Anyone tried this and/or did you need a shock modification? SC says the DPX2 isn't tuned for the new suspension curves and not sure what the best approach is. Many thanks.
    Can I ask why do you want a DPX2?

    IMO the best approach...ride the bike as designed by Santa Cruz and then when you have all available information then go make changes if necessary.

    I'm sure if a DPX2 had a light compression and rebound tune it'll work fine btw. Don't know if it will work any better than the Super Deluxe but it'll work.

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Can I ask why do you want a DPX2?

    IMO the best approach...ride the bike as designed by Santa Cruz and then when you have all available information then go make changes if necessary.

    I'm sure if a DPX2 had a light compression and rebound tune it'll work fine btw. Don't know if it will work any better than the Super Deluxe but it'll work.
    No urgent reason; just looking to see if people had done it yet and had a preference.

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tedh View Post
    Ordering up a HT2 and a Maverick for the Mrs and debating a switch to a Fox DPX2. Anyone tried this and/or did you need a shock modification? SC says the DPX2 isn't tuned for the new suspension curves and not sure what the best approach is. Many thanks.


    Is this question going to pop up on every page? There's two threads for this bike on mtbr: "Hightower V2" and "The Future Hightower" with lots of info.

    Right on santa cruz's website it lists what shocks they recommend and the size you need, which is a metric 210x52.5

    When I was considering I simply did a search on "DPX2 vs Super Deluxe". it's not as if the megatower ,bronson ,and nomad don't already use the same suspension linkage design and haven't been out for quite a while now.

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    what causes a blown shock? faulty damper? i brought my HT2 in for its first tune up...iíd definitely ridden it hard but no jumping etc... and the shock had a squeak and perhaps you could hear the air pushing around (like a pump) but i donít have a trained ear for these things. Just curious, iím sure it could be a number of things.


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    Air cavitation?
    How many hours do you have on the shock?

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Air cavitation?
    How many hours do you have on the shock?
    roughly 30hrs (400km total, 20km rides, ~1.5hrs/ride)


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  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    roughly 30hrs (400km total, 20km rides, ~1.5hrs/ride)


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    Hmm 30h isn't that much. The performance of air shocks usually starts going down after 50h. But of course it all depends on the way it is ridden, riding conditions, riders weight...
    Did your shop tell you the shock was blown? Is it leaking oil? How heavy are you?

  20. #620
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Hmm 30h isn't that much. The performance of air shocks usually starts going down after 50h. But of course it all depends on the way it is ridden, riding conditions, riders weight...
    Did your shop tell you the shock was blown? Is it leaking oil? How heavy are you?
    said was blown. iím 200lbs with gear. east coast rooty gnar for the most part
    i did not see oil leaking, or any liquid escaping kind of sound , nor am i an expert to notice anything in modest amounts, but as far as iím concerned I didnít see any.
    there was some friction/ďcrunchinessĒ post a wash but didnít seem to stay


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  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    said was blown. iím 200lbs with gear. east coast rooty gnar for the most part
    i did not see oil leaking, or any liquid escaping kind of sound , nor am i an expert to notice anything in modest amounts, but as far as iím concerned I didnít see any.
    there was some friction/ďcrunchinessĒ post a wash but didnít seem to stay


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    A blown shock may not show any external leakage, but it can happen. All it takes is a failed seal somewhere in the damper or IFP and itís done. If itís a new shock you might just be unlucky and got one that was built on a Friday afternoon! Full rebuild under warranty in that case.

    A healthy shock will make noise as it cycles too. Does your shock have any damping ie. does the lockout or rebound dial make any noticeable difference? Does it ride like a pogo stick ie. no damping?

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by accuracy View Post
    Is this question going to pop up on every page? There's two threads for this bike on mtbr: "Hightower V2" and "The Future Hightower" with lots of info.

    Right on santa cruz's website it lists what shocks they recommend and the size you need, which is a metric 210x52.5

    When I was considering I simply did a search on "DPX2 vs Super Deluxe". it's not as if the megatower ,bronson ,and nomad don't already use the same suspension linkage design and haven't been out for quite a while now.
    Read those threads, including your posts, which highlighted the tuning need. My question was seeking an update as to whether someone had since tried it out, not whether it was possible, which is well known. If you don't like the question, just ignore and move on.

  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    I swapped my wifeís Pike for a Mattock on her Furtado. Great change. Plenty stiff, lighter tune (and easy to reshim for custom tunes), and very responsive to small trail noise and chatter. They also have longer travel enduro forks, forget the name.

    I really donít know why SC specks the same tune fork in a bike for 180lb men and 120lb women. The same tune canít cope with both well. They tune the shocks lighter riders so why not the fork? I know....cost.
    Or 180mm front rotors on XL and XXL AM and TRAIL bikes.

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock.man View Post
    A blown shock may not show any external leakage, but it can happen. All it takes is a failed seal somewhere in the damper or IFP and itís done. If itís a new shock you might just be unlucky and got one that was built on a Friday afternoon! Full rebuild under warranty in that case.

    A healthy shock will make noise as it cycles too. Does your shock have any damping ie. does the lockout or rebound dial make any noticeable difference? Does it ride like a pogo stick ie. no damping?
    i was questioning the lockout switch as i wasnít sure i was getting the firmness i expected. iím new to FS so still learning. Never actually used a pogo stick before but donít think it was there just yet.


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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    From the chart Iíve seen, the 150mm Lyrik comes with 2 tokens. Iím going to pull mine apart some time this week, and Iíll let you know.
    It sounds like 2 tokens is correct, I'll remove one and give it a shot, no way I'm using full travel out this fork with both tokens at the recommended PSI unless I gain like 30 pounds and start hitting rock gardens at pro-level speeds.

  26. #626
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbs76 View Post
    i was questioning the lockout switch as i wasnít sure i was getting the firmness i expected. iím new to FS so still learning. Never actually used a pogo stick before but donít think it was there just yet.


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    If your damper is blown and passing oil through it freely, the air spring will feel very bouncy and uncontrolled - like a pogo stick.

  27. #627
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    You guys think itís worth picking up a C R build for 3700? Is the NX drivetrain decent?

  28. #628
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    Yes. I sat down yesterday and compared the S and R builds on various SC bikes and could find no rational reason to go with the S. The R will perform as well as the S with only about a 1/2 lb. weight penalty.

    The differences between NX and GX is negligible and most riders would probably not notice them.

    Don't believe me though. Go on line and you will find plenty of reviews that support my opinion. The carbon* frame is the most important part of your purchase. If you are not happy with the drivetrain that comes on the "R", drivetrains wear out and you can upgrade at that point.

    Like most things posted on MTBR, its personal opinion on what to buy, but tell me, where can you get an HT2 C/R for $3700?

    * I'm not certain that the aluminum frame wouldn't be as much fun as the carbon but there probably is a 2 lb difference so I would pick the carbon over the aluminum.

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    You guys think itís worth picking up a C R build for 3700? Is the NX drivetrain decent?
    Yes. Thats a great price! Like stated by Erik, drivetains wear out. Personally my R build has a GX 11 speed on it (dropped some weight as the NX cassette is a boat anchor). Also I upgraded my Yari for $250 with the Charger 2.1 damper making it a Lyric.

    Grab that R build for that price and upgrade when you feel you need (have) too...
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  30. #630
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    Keep in mind that upgrading from a NX cassette to a GX will require a different hub driver (splined vs XD) and not all hubs have easily swappable drivers

  31. #631
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    Itís used, bike is $3600 but I will be paying $100 in PayPal fees. FYI I used that pop up messenger on MikesBikes and just asked them for the best price on new. They sent me a 10% off coupon. Even with that here in CA the R build would be 4200 and some change after tax. That leaves me $500 to upgrade the used R build.

  32. #632
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    Itís used, bike is $3600 but I will be paying $100 in PayPal fees. FYI I used that pop up messenger on MikesBikes and just asked them for the best price on new. They sent me a 10% off coupon. Even with that here in CA the R build would be 4200 and some change after tax. That leaves me $500 to upgrade the used R build.
    Ymmv but I wouldnít throw away the lifetime frame warranty for $500.

    Just my $0.02

  33. #633
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    I have to agree for $600 more I would go and get the lifetime warranty as well as the lifetime warranty on bearings. That cost will soon tot up.

  34. #634
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    Just received my new HTV2, in love with it so far. I've never ridden Rockshox forks before does anyone have a good source for tuning and understanding Rockshox Lyric Ultimate and Rockshox Super Deluxe.

  35. #635
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    For the fork this is a good start: https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/

    For the rear shock, go to "shock setup" under the "tech support section" at the bottom of the page: https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/hightower

    Unfortunately the fork guide just tells you what pressure and rebound to use but doesn't tell you what LSC or HSC setting to use, and the SC shock setup guide tells you what pressure to use and no rebound or LSC setting. I too would like to know if there is a more in-depth guide for suspension settings but I have followed these and they will go pretty far. You will probably want to ride around with LSC near the middle number of clicks (front and rear) to start with then go from there I think based on my personal findings. I too have not 100% dialed in the rear shock rebound yet though I think.

  36. #636
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    Also, double post here but I watched these videos make and they make it pretty easy to understand setting up your suspension:

    Getting your suspension setup in 10 minutes:

    Advanced setup:

    Another video on the topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIyWP3B3ggI

    I found this video good at explaining what is going on inside your suspension too and exactly what volume spacers, LSC, etc do:

  37. #637
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    Hightower V2

    rockshox has a good basic tuning guide here

    https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/...sh_rev_a_2.pdf

    also some videos from Fox

    https://youtu.be/GPQnjSe6rdw

    https://youtu.be/CM0lDN80miQ

  38. #638
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    What damper tune ships in the super deluxe on the v2 Hightower? There should be a sticker on the shock or printed near the serial number with ďMLĒ or ďMMĒ or some other combination of the letters L, M and H. Can anyone confirm?

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by MondoGram View Post
    What damper tune ships in the super deluxe on the v2 Hightower? There should be a sticker on the shock or printed near the serial number with ďMLĒ or ďMMĒ or some other combination of the letters L, M and H. Can anyone confirm?
    I canít 100% confirm because I havenít seen it personally but a couple reviews of the Hightower mentioned that it is using a light tune and they have specifically mentioned itís compliance vs the medium on the Megatower.

  40. #640
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    Hightower 2 comes LL, Megatower comes MM.

  41. #641
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    Loving my new V2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hightower V2-hightower.jpg  


  42. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim0905 View Post
    Loving my new V2
    Is that just a straight up normal Absolute Black DM ring, or one of their Shimano-12 specific ones?
    I'm trying to find GXP DM rings that's Shimano compatible for a set of eeWings.
    Thanks.

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight70 View Post
    Is that just a straight up normal Absolute Black DM ring, or one of their Shimano-12 specific ones?
    I'm trying to find GXP DM rings that's Shimano compatible for a set of eeWings.
    Thanks.
    Yeah itís one of their Shimano 12 speed ones. I did message them a couple of months back about what other Shimano 12 speed rings they were doing as I was considering Hope cranks. No go on the Hope but they were doing Cinch and Sram fitting ones. EEwings take Sram fitment donít they?

  44. #644
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    I think wolftooth is making shimano 12 speed rings now that will fit the eewings

  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim0905 View Post
    Yeah itís one of their Shimano 12 speed ones. I did message them a couple of months back about what other Shimano 12 speed rings they were doing as I was considering Hope cranks. No go on the Hope but they were doing Cinch and Sram fitting ones. EEwings take Sram fitment donít they?
    Yeah, that 3-bolt GXP interface...

    I'm looking for 28T tho...knee issues...and cannot go any larger because I also dropped from 175 down to 170 on those EEs.

    Numbers on paper say the 5mm crank arm drop is ~2.9% gain which 2% of which can be accounted for by the one extra tooth of the Shimano-12. And by going w/ Onyx, I'm not sure if I can account for the 0.8% by how low drag the hubs roll.

    I did mount a Garbaruk 28T ring on a RF SixC cranks and it does work w/ Shimano-12, but is a bit noisy. But my knees were very happy w/ those 175 SixCs and 51T XT cassette!

  46. #646
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    Roughly 300 miles in and loving it. Iím removing the MegNeg, and installing a Maxxis DHF on the front. The front end washes out a couple times per ride, and Iím hoping the DHF has better traction.


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  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Just an update - HT 2 developed a strange creaking when pedaling light to moderately, only when seated. Ahh easy fix! Must be seat or seat post related, right?

    So, first thing I tried was cleaning / re greasing all things seat related. Nope.

    Tried changing seats. Nope.

    Thought it might be dropper post. Nope. Swapped out and creaking still there.

    Greased all drop outs, axles. Nope.

    Removed, re-greased front chain ring and crank threads. Nope.

    Different pedals. Nope.

    Tried different back wheel. Nope.

    Only thing left was bottom bracket, or rear suspension linkage (didn't think it was the actual shock itself).

    Disassembled rear linkage - there was a lot of grit that had built up and SC seems to install the lower linkage with a ton of grease. Cleaned off excess grease, wiped grit off, re greased the high / low bolt. Axle bolts and associated collet bolts were dirt free so left them alone.

    Also dropped tiny bit of Tri-flow around all of the hanger linkages and where the shock connects to the bike.

    Creak finally gone.

    Super frustrating, I think I have spent about 4 hours trying to fix this. Anyway, just passing along in hopes this helps someone else. I am not sure what the ultimate cuplrit was (hanger linkage, shock interface in shock eyelets, or the lower linkage itself, but in any case, will have to keep an eye on this as time goes by.

    As a side note, lower linkage is pretty easy to disassemble - pretty much like original HT except the high / low bolt that goes through the shock. Be sure to do all of this in an area that if something drops to the ground it will be easy to find - the seal covers at the end of the shock tend to drop out / down to the floor, as do the high / low nuts (there are two of those, one on each side of the shock). Also, the clearance between the high / low bolt and the seat stay is very tight, so be careful not to scratch your paint with your whatever tool you are using. I also removed the little shock guard to give myself more room, but this isn't necessary.
    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Just an update - still dealing with noise issues on my HT 2 - mainly dealing with RS Reverb Stealth posts and what I believe was some additional squeaking from the upper bolt of the hanger which I think I have addressed. Two different posts had significant side to side play creating a very obvious and annoying creaking and knocking sound while putting any decent effort into pedaling. Leaning bike against wall and pushing on any part of the post caused the same knocking sound. LBS has installed third dropper on bike so hoping this particular post does the trick.
    Hey SD ever determine if your creaking was strictly the frame, the dropper, or if both were creaking?

  48. #648
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    Hey SD ever determine if your creaking was strictly the frame, the dropper, or if both were creaking?
    Two sources: defective dropper and upper linkage needed some lubrication. No more issues


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  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinbend View Post
    Iím removing the MegNeg
    any more feedback on MegNeg? Why are you removing it?

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    Hightower V2-cartier-14.jpg

    Had a request for a side view, so here it is. Also have a DPX2 from a SB130 I'm gonna try soon, just waiting on eyelet bearing/hardware. The SB130 shock has a lighter tune, so we will see how well it plays with the Hightower. I'll post some feedback once it's on and tested for those interested.

  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    any more feedback on MegNeg? Why are you removing it?
    I couldnít get it to hold more than 260psi. This put me at 40% sag and I was getting 30% sag at 245psi with the standard air can.


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  52. #652
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    Quote Originally Posted by CORMONTE View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Had a request for a side view, so here it is. Also have a DPX2 from a SB130 I'm gonna try soon, just waiting on eyelet bearing/hardware. The SB130 shock has a lighter tune, so we will see how well it plays with the Hightower. I'll post some feedback once it's on and tested for those interested.
    Thanks for sharing this. Love the green decals on that frame!

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    Is that the exo or exo+ Assegai on there? Curious if the plus and non plus have the same ride quality or if the plus has a more firm or slow ride due to stiffer sidewalls.

  54. #654
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    Exo+. Max Terra. Stiffer side wall, better support. Running 21-24psi depending on terrain. Well worth the extra grams.

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    When you changed the letter color on the frame, did you remove the original colored letters or just go over the original?

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    Just sticker over top, youíd make a real mess of the paint if you tried to remove the original letters. Lol.

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    I figured, can you tell me where you picked yours up? I have read that some are a little too small. Did yours fit well?

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    Invisiframe, they seem to fit well, apart from my poor install.

  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by CORMONTE View Post
    Invisiframe, they seem to fit well, apart from my poor install.
    they are supposed to be a little bigger than the original ones so should have good coverage!

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    Did you install the letter on top of the Invisiframe complete wrap ? I want to fully protect the frame, but I don't know if the letter should go above or under, I expect under will create some air bubbles.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by foxone View Post
    Did you install the letter on top of the Invisiframe complete wrap ? I want to fully protect the frame, but I don't know if the letter should go above or under, I expect under will create some air bubbles.
    I put the decals on top, which leaves the option of changing them later with no effect on the Invisiframe wrap. Only downside is you have to be careful when washing the bike, not to lift the decals etc. If you went underneath there would definitely be air trapped around the edges which would be hard to get out.

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    How well the decals hold elements thrown to them? Putting them under would likely protect them better, but it's true that if you want to change them later there goes Invisiframe too.
    Roots, bloody roots

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by foxone View Post
    Did you install the letter on top of the Invisiframe complete wrap ? I want to fully protect the frame, but I don't know if the letter should go above or under, I expect under will create some air bubbles.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.T View Post
    How well the decals hold elements thrown to them? Putting them under would likely protect them better, but it's true that if you want to change them later there goes Invisiframe too.
    So far so good, I can see the edges lifting a bit on a couple letters but thatís after 5 weeks of riding in mostly wet conditions with quite a few much needed bike washes.

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    What else would I need to upgrade the C R build NX cassette to X01? I know the cassette part number, but I dont know what else would need to be swapped.

  65. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGenErik1 View Post
    What else would I need to upgrade the C R build NX cassette to X01? I know the cassette part number, but I dont know what else would need to be swapped.
    You will need an XD freehub. Depending on your hub, it may or may not be swappable.

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    Tall riders beware....XXL vs. XL is a huge difference.

    I'm 6'4", with long arms (6'8" wingspan) and currently ride a tallboy LT XXL....assumed the XXL hightower was going to be the bike for me. Loved the reach and stack numbers on paper. Got a chance to demo it for two days and absolutely hated the XXL.

    It was unwieldy, hard to control, impossible for me to get air, sketchy on rock rolls....it just felt wrong. Then I switched to the XL and it felt really comfortable and familiar on the same terrain. A bit short in the reach and stack, but overall a nice feel and very playful, easy to get air.

    Demo dudes thought it was me needing to get used to modern geometry...but I don't think so. I've also demoed a kona process 153 XL, which has a very long reach and it was so comfortable and easy to ride and get used to. Much better than the hightower in playfulness and descending.

    I'm torn, not sure I can justify the money for an XL given the reach and stack weren't right. For anybody in my height range, I highly recommend a demo before committing to the XXL as it was so long it might not be the bike for you.

    Also, appreciate any tips from XL riders in my height range, how are you finding the stack and reach?

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by soto View Post
    I'm 6'4", with long arms (6'8" wingspan) and currently ride a tallboy LT XXL....assumed the XXL hightower was going to be the bike for me. Loved the reach and stack numbers on paper. Got a chance to demo it for two days and absolutely hated the XXL.

    It was unwieldy, hard to control, impossible for me to get air, sketchy on rock rolls....it just felt wrong. Then I switched to the XL and it felt really comfortable and familiar on the same terrain. A bit short in the reach and stack, but overall a nice feel and very playful, easy to get air.

    Demo dudes thought it was me needing to get used to modern geometry...but I don't think so. I've also demoed a kona process 153 XL, which has a very long reach and it was so comfortable and easy to ride and get used to. Much better than the hightower in playfulness and descending.

    I'm torn, not sure I can justify the money for an XL given the reach and stack weren't right. For anybody in my height range, I highly recommend a demo before committing to the XXL as it was so long it might not be the bike for you.

    Also, appreciate any tips from XL riders in my height range, how are you finding the stack and reach?
    I agree quite a bit with the demo drivers. The bike you were on previously is geometry that is easily 2.5 generations old with regards to front/rear center ratios. The resulting difference in how the bikes want (must) be ridden compared to what you are used to easily takes 10 or so rides to start adapting to. at 6'4" on a bike with 450 reach, you are riding completely off the back of your tallboy LT. On the new geo bikes, you ride with your hips more forward and with easily 2x more weight in your hands then you have previously. Without the weight in your hands, the new breed of bikes are vague, won't steer and will ride you. They will understeer, wander and will stand up instead of digging in and providing grip.

    I digress. because of the above listed comparison of both of these new bikes to your tallboy LT, i'm going to throw out that tallboy LT comparison and move towards comparing the XL kona 153 29 cr to the xxl ht2. The kona is 5mm shorter then the ht2, but it has 32mm less stack and has a 51mm offset fork. The reduction in stack and the longer offset fork are what is making you comfortable on the process faster then you are comfortable on the ht2. The kona's handlebar and hand position is lower (unless it had 40mm rise bars that were on the top steer tube with extra length, and the ht2 had a slammed stem with a flat bar), forcing you to put more weight in the front of the bike without noticing it. In addition, the 51mm offset fork allowed you to get away with steering the bike with the bars, where the ht2 is going to demand that you lean the ever loving shit out of the bike to get it to turn.

    You are in between sizes at 6'4" in SC's lineup... as I am also in between sizes in their lineup at 6'2" (L to XL). If the large fit you better, that's what you should go with. I only mention the above items as I agree with the demo drivers. I feel strongly about this, especially since you mentioned you were comfortable on the process. I just made the switch from traditional 29rs to modern 29rs and have helped a few friends make the same switch. One thing that was universal between my own transition and those of my riding buddies is that we all found the process 153 very intuitive when we were demo'ing bikes. Most of us were very uncomfortable at first on bikes such as the ripmo, sb130 and other long/low/slack short offset 29rs. We also all agreed that we were more comfortable on more conservative low offset 29rs such as the giant trance 29 that had some of the characteristics of the new bikes, but didn't demand that riding style.

    In time over the period of 2 months or so during our demo/purchasing period, we all started to adjust to the new style of bikes. I went back and rode the process 153 29 before buying my megatower and found that once I had adapted, I didn't find that bike as comfortable as I did at first. It was really the first of the newer bikes I jelled with, and now that I go back and ride it, I still like it... but not as much as I like the mega, ht2 and tallboy 4.

    Definitely keep demo'ing bikes. I feel like in the course of demo'ing 5-6 bikes your riding style is going to start to change and your story will be much like mine. If you end up more comfortable on the XL, then don't fight it. The most important thing is that you end up comfortable with the bike you are on. I'm really only rambling on and on about this to point out that you have two things at play here; 1-being in between sizes, 2-a massive shift in geometry and resulting riding style of these newer 29rs.

    https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=s...-29-2020;*z.XL

  68. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by soto View Post
    I'm 6'4", with long arms (6'8" wingspan) and currently ride a tallboy LT XXL....assumed the XXL hightower was going to be the bike for me. Loved the reach and stack numbers on paper. Got a chance to demo it for two days and absolutely hated the XXL.

    It was unwieldy, hard to control, impossible for me to get air, sketchy on rock rolls....it just felt wrong. Then I switched to the XL and it felt really comfortable and familiar on the same terrain. A bit short in the reach and stack, but overall a nice feel and very playful, easy to get air.

    Demo dudes thought it was me needing to get used to modern geometry...but I don't think so. I've also demoed a kona process 153 XL, which has a very long reach and it was so comfortable and easy to ride and get used to. Much better than the hightower in playfulness and descending.

    I'm torn, not sure I can justify the money for an XL given the reach and stack weren't right. For anybody in my height range, I highly recommend a demo before committing to the XXL as it was so long it might not be the bike for you.

    Also, appreciate any tips from XL riders in my height range, how are you finding the stack and reach?
    6'4" with proportional reach and I ride a Tallboy LTc but XL.

    I've demoed the v3 Tallboy in XL and XXL, Hightower XL, Hightower LT XL, Hightower 2 XL, Ripley v4 XL, Primer XL, Smuggler XL, and many others. I found that for me 500 reach and 650 effective top tube are what I target. The XXL Tallboy 3 and Hightower 1 were good. The XL were also good. It was a toss up for me, but XXL may have been better.

    With the HT2 the XL I demoed felt big but also rode great and was easy to climb, stable down, and easy to get the front wheel up. I would definitely get the XL. The XXL would be too long for me.

    I personally think bikes these days are too big and long. My LTc is too small so I'm looking to replace it. (running a 60mm stem and 35mm rise 800mm wide bars to get a better fit) But in the last few years bikes have gotten sooooo much longer. 450mm in a LTc XXL to 518mm HT2 XXL is three bike sizes worth of reach. Don't get me wrong, I like the new long front center...but its too much IMO.

    Check out Lee MaCormack's book "Dialed" or his site leelikesbikes.com and subscribe for a month. A lot of good fit and technique information to help steer you to the right size.
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  69. #669
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    To anyone running 160mm forks in front, are you using Hi or Lo? I am using a Fox 36 Grip 2 160 in front on Lo setting and I find it a little difficult to pedal on rolling terrain. I have adjusted the shock's LSC to just one click from fully closed but I would still need to activate the lever to climb mode just to minimize pedal bob. Figure if the shock set to Lo with 160 fork contributes to that. Any ideas? TIA!

  70. #670
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    Interesting. Do you think that is caused by the increase in front suspension because 1) there is more suspension in general or 2) kinematics and balance between shock and fork has changed (likely to be fixed with proper tuning). I'm planning to run 160 mm Lyrik, but extra-bobbing is not what I had in mind.
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  71. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by soto View Post
    I'm 6'4", with long arms (6'8" wingspan) and currently ride a tallboy LT XXL....assumed the XXL hightower was going to be the bike for me. Loved the reach and stack numbers on paper. Got a chance to demo it for two days and absolutely hated the XXL.

    It was unwieldy, hard to control, impossible for me to get air, sketchy on rock rolls....it just felt wrong. Then I switched to the XL and it felt really comfortable and familiar on the same terrain. A bit short in the reach and stack, but overall a nice feel and very playful, easy to get air.

    Demo dudes thought it was me needing to get used to modern geometry...but I don't think so. I've also demoed a kona process 153 XL, which has a very long reach and it was so comfortable and easy to ride and get used to. Much better than the hightower in playfulness and descending.

    I'm torn, not sure I can justify the money for an XL given the reach and stack weren't right. For anybody in my height range, I highly recommend a demo before committing to the XXL as it was so long it might not be the bike for you.

    Also, appreciate any tips from XL riders in my height range, how are you finding the stack and reach?
    I'm 6'5" and on an XXL Megatower. It fits just about perfect. I think minimus is right, it will take more than one ride to adapt. I learned bike handling on bmx bikes, my first mtb had a 460mm reach so I'm familiar with a range of different sized bikes. You do have to adjust from a 'off the back of the bike' type position to a more aggressive hip forward position. This works well for aggressive riding obviously, but it's not necessarily the best option for every rider.

  72. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.T View Post
    Interesting. Do you think that is caused by the increase in front suspension because 1) there is more suspension in general or 2) kinematics and balance between shock and fork has changed (likely to be fixed with proper tuning). I'm planning to run 160 mm Lyrik, but extra-bobbing is not what I had in mind.
    Frankly, I have no idea if the increased fork travel is a factor in changing the frameís kinematics. I have run a 160 fork previously in my HTLT and it didnít give me the pedal bob, granted that it is a last generation VPP. I am thinking maybe the pedal bob is caused by improper shock settings; I am still dialing the RS SD with LSC - 1 and LSR - 5. Or do I need to set the shock to HI setting to steepen the head angle a little bit. Wondering if setting the frame to HI would also have an effect to the shockís damping.

  73. #673
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    Is it actually "bobbing"? Can be hard to tell given the shock placement on these bikes. The new versions have incredibly low breakaway force and are very very supple in the beginning of the stroke. That can make it feel less less efficient.

    I can say, when I had my HT2, I actually liked it slightly better in high position, though that was with a 150 fork. It felt snappier to me without really giving up any descending prowess.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  74. #674
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    The longer fork may raise your center of gravity, which I believe would theoretically reduce the anti squat percentage by a tiny bit. I don't imagine it would be a very significant amount.

    There are a few options for increasing anti-squat. Running the flip chip in the high position and/or running less sag in the rear would keep you higher in the anti-squat curve and effectively increase the amount of anti-squat by maybe a few percent. Less sag also generally means a firmer spring rate, which can help reduce bob as well. Maybe you could pair that with a smaller volume spacer in the shock so you still use full travel. You could also run a smaller chainring to increase the amount of anti-squat throughout the entire range of travel by maybe a few percent per chainring size. Pairing that with a 9t cassette like the E-13 TRS would enable you to drop down a chainring size without significantly changing your gear ratios.

  75. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    Is it actually "bobbing"? Can be hard to tell given the shock placement on these bikes. The new versions have incredibly low breakaway force and are very very supple in the beginning of the stroke. That can make it feel less less efficient.
    On rolling terrain, I can see a little bob from the movement of the lower shock link in concert with my pedal strokes so I backed off the LSR a bit. It felt less efficient for sure but I believe with proper shock tuning, pedal bob can be eliminated. OTOH, the descents are amazing on this bike.

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    There are a few options for increasing anti-squat. Running the flip chip in the high position and/or running less sag in the rear would keep you higher in the anti-squat curve and effectively increase the amount of anti-squat by maybe a few percent. Less sag also generally means a firmer spring rate, which can help reduce bob as well. Maybe you could pair that with a smaller volume spacer in the shock so you still use full travel. You could also run a smaller chainring to increase the amount of anti-squat throughout the entire range of travel by maybe a few percent per chainring size. Pairing that with a 9t cassette like the E-13 TRS would enable you to drop down a chainring size without significantly changing your gear ratios.
    Thanks for the output, @dlxah and @blatant. I will shift to the HI setting and ride on the same trail tomorrow. All other settings I will not change; maybe that will improve the ride on rolling terrain and punchy climbs. I am using a 32-34 SRAM Oval chainring so that should help in the anti-squat. I already have 2 spacers in the RS Super Deluxe on 33% sag, same as last ride. Maybe that and the HI setting will do wonders. Let's see... If not, maybe reduce the sag to 30%.

  77. #677
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    The lower setting will slacken the STA out, increase sag and decrease weight on the front wheel. The longer fork will do the same.

  78. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The lower setting will slacken the STA out, increase sag and decrease weight on the front wheel. The longer fork will do the same.
    This is what have been suspecting all along. So going with Hi on 160 will somehow replicate the Low setting with 150 fork, but with higher BB height, all other things equal?

  79. #679
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    Quote Originally Posted by gent96 View Post
    This is what have been suspecting all along. So going with Hi on 160 will somehow replicate the Low setting with 150 fork, but with higher BB height, all other things equal?
    not sure if replicate but it would offset some of the effects of a longer fork and kinda compensate for some of it, just not sure at what degree or %

  80. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by gent96 View Post
    This is what have been suspecting all along. So going with Hi on 160 will somehow replicate the Low setting with 150 fork, but with higher BB height, all other things equal?
    Yeah. You should also consider sliding your saddle forward as long as it's comfortable (same as steepening the STA).

    This kinda why I'm not a huge fan of long forking bikes. It's always a trade off.

  81. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Two sources: defective dropper and upper linkage needed some lubrication. No more issues


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    That kind of sucks to hear, I am not too annoyed with having a creaky frame as that is apparently common with SC bikes, is fixable, and it doesn't affect bike function but my reverb (the new model) is also having issues. I thought the new reverbs would have fixed the issues with the old one but apparently not. The HT2 honeymoon is officially over. I was getting some creaking which might have been my frame but i'll have to get the reverb fixed first to see...

    I'd still recommend the HT2 to anyone, just with a warning about the reverb and note that you might develop some creaks (which are able to be fixed if it is the frame).

  82. #682
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    Starting to slowly gather/order the parts for my build that I have missing from my current build. Just wanted to check on the headset cups that I'm right in thinking a hope pick n mix should be HSC7 for the top cup and HSCJ for the bottom cup.

  83. #683
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    I rode again today on the same trail I rode last weekend. This time, I set the frame to the HI setting. Without changing any settings, I felt the HT rode better. The lockout lever was not engaged for whole duration of the ride, even on long ascents. I was a bit faster too, comparing both rides on my Garmin app. The most important thing is that after the ride, I was not that spent physically, compared to the previous ride. I believe for the HT with 160 fork in front, the HI setting is optimal. I emailed SC on their take on 160 forks for the HT; let's see what they have to say. Thank you for your input here, guys!

  84. #684
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    Can anyone tell me what length the steerer tube is on a XL Hightower V2?

  85. #685
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvcraig75 View Post
    Can anyone tell me what length the steerer tube is on a XL Hightower V2?
    130mm

    https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-GB/hightower

  86. #686
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    Ok, but how long is tube on fork with headset, stem, etc....I just want to make sure if I buy a used fork that it is long enough. Thanks!

  87. #687
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    It depends on what headset, stem and stack spacers you choose. It's going to be the headtube length of your frame + the stack height of your headset + the stack height of your stem + the stack height of however many stack spacers you prefer. For example, on a large stock build the absolute minimum steerer length would be 130mm headtube + 1mm lower headset stack + 9mm upper headset stack + 40mm stem stack = 180mm total. You'll probably want to have at least 20mm more to play around with your bar height, so I'd look for a steerer length of at least 200mm or more if you prefer higher bars.

  88. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    Starting to slowly gather/order the parts for my build that I have missing from my current build. Just wanted to check on the headset cups that I'm right in thinking a hope pick n mix should be HSC7 for the top cup and HSCJ for the bottom cup.
    it uses an integrated headset, so no cups hope docs are a little confusing but seems like you are right from the diagrams and drawing seems these are only bearings and no cups, + top assembly and crown race of course

  89. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    Starting to slowly gather/order the parts for my build that I have missing from my current build. Just wanted to check on the headset cups that I'm right in thinking a hope pick n mix should be HSC7 for the top cup and HSCJ for the bottom cup.
    Headset is Integrated (IS41/52)

    Interestingly, Santa Cruz use the dropset 3 in their complete builds but Chris King recommend the dropset 1. They will both fit, the only difference is the angle of the bearing seat on the 3 is 36x45 v 45x45 on the dropset 1.

    I did ask Santa Cruz for clarification but they didn't respond.

  90. #690
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Headset is Integrated (IS41/52)

    Interestingly, Santa Cruz use the dropset 3 in their complete builds but Chris King recommend the dropset 1. They will both fit, the only difference is the angle of the bearing seat on the 3 is 36x45 v 45x45 on the dropset 1.

    I did ask Santa Cruz for clarification but they didn't respond.
    I asked Chris King and they recommended dropset 3 (customer service email) I didnít really got into why, he also told me the dropset 3 works not only with integrated crown races but also with their crown race, I think they both work but given that SC and CK are recommending dropset 3 thatís what Iím getting.

    btw they also told me they are not aware of any clearance issues with threadfit 30 bb

  91. #691
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    Yeah the Hope headset you need is 7 and J

  92. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf_Chick View Post
    Starting to slowly gather/order the parts for my build that I have missing from my current build. Just wanted to check on the headset cups that I'm right in thinking a hope pick n mix should be HSC7 for the top cup and HSCJ for the bottom cup.
    Yeah 7 and J

  93. #693
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I asked Chris King and they recommended dropset 3 (customer service email) I didnít really got into why, he also told me the dropset 3 works not only with integrated crown races but also with their crown race, I think they both work but given that SC and CK are recommending dropset 3 thatís what Iím getting.

    btw they also told me they are not aware of any clearance issues with threadfit 30 bb
    Strange as the Chris King website states all 2018+ SC bikes us drop set 1 with the exception of the Stigmata which uses drop set 3
    https://chrisking.com/collections/up...our-santa-cruz

  94. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I asked Chris King and they recommended dropset 3 (customer service email) I didnít really got into why, he also told me the dropset 3 works not only with integrated crown races but also with their crown race, I think they both work but given that SC and CK are recommending dropset 3 thatís what Iím getting.

    btw they also told me they are not aware of any clearance issues with threadfit 30 bb
    CK are recommending dropset 1.

    Didn't know there were integrated crown races....is that a thing?

  95. #695
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    CK are recommending dropset 1.

    Didn't know there were integrated crown races....is that a thing?
    On their website yes, thatís why I sent them email asking that. CS told me the deopset 3 works with both integrated crown race as well as the crown race that comes with the headset and told me to go with the 3.

    my email

    ďI'm a little confuse about which headset is the correct one for the new 2020 Hightower V2. Santa Cruz high end builds show a Dropset 3 being used, but CK fit finder talks about the Dropset 3 being used with a integrated baseplate fork. I'm going to install a 2020 Lyrik Ultimate, Santa Cruz says the bike uses an integrated 41/52 headset.

    The headset spec shows a different angle bearing but both are compatible with the baseplate that comes with the headset itself and the right size. So should I get a dropset 1 or dropset 3? Do you guys know why Santa Cruz used a dropset 3?Ē

    response I got:

    ďDropset 3 can be used with or without integrated crown race. go 3.Ē

    no reason or no explanation but considering SC is specing dropset 3 and Chris King customer service told me the same thing.

    Iím not sure if there is any reason but they are basically the same headset with a different angle that interfaces with the crown race, itís very confusing since both apparently also work with integrated baseplate

    ďCompatible with our baseplate and 36(45 for dropset 1) degree integrated crown racesĒ

    btw, I had no clue integrated baseplate was a thing! Seems like something you would find in road/gravel forks I guess

  96. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    On their website yes, thatís why I sent them email asking that. CS told me the deopset 3 works with both integrated crown race as well as the crown race that comes with the headset and told me to go with the 3.

    my email

    ďI'm a little confuse about which headset is the correct one for the new 2020 Hightower V2. Santa Cruz high end builds show a Dropset 3 being used, but CK fit finder talks about the Dropset 3 being used with a integrated baseplate fork. I'm going to install a 2020 Lyrik Ultimate, Santa Cruz says the bike uses an integrated 41/52 headset.

    The headset spec shows a different angle bearing but both are compatible with the baseplate that comes with the headset itself and the right size. So should I get a dropset 1 or dropset 3? Do you guys know why Santa Cruz used a dropset 3?Ē

    response I got:

    ďDropset 3 can be used with or without integrated crown race. go 3.Ē

    no reason or no explanation but considering SC is specing dropset 3 and Chris King customer service told me the same thing.

    Iím not sure if there is any reason but they are basically the same headset with a different angle that interfaces with the crown race, itís very confusing since both apparently also work with integrated baseplate

    ďCompatible with our baseplate and 36(45 for dropset 1) degree integrated crown racesĒ

    btw, I had no clue integrated baseplate was a thing! Seems like something you would find in road/gravel forks I guess
    And the response I just got from Chris King.....
    'The DropSet 1 is the headset you need.'

    No explanation re the 3 v 1

  97. #697
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    And the response I just got from Chris King.....
    'The DropSet 1 is the headset you need.'

    No explanation re the 3 v 1
    thatís weird, like I said I believe both will work Iíd just like to understand why SC decided to go with the 3, clearly the only sifference is the low bearing angle interface with the crown race.

  98. #698
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    Two rides in on my new V2 HT and I'm pretty mind blown at the improvements over the HTLT I've been on. Longer front, more supple/active rear with a ton of support and the better pedal/climbing position. Overall I have nothing but positive things to say about this bike. I ended up doing a warranty frame build:

    CC Blue Frame - Medium
    Fox PE 36 with old offset
    RS Super Deluxe Ultimate
    GX Drivetrain with Turbine cranks, AB oval
    Enduro 305's/Torches, Rekon 2.4 out back with the Dissector 2.4 up front
    XT Brakes, Ice Tek Rotors 203/180
    One up Dropper with V2.1 actuator installed/wolftooth lever
    WTB Koda
    ESI Chunkies
    Santa Cruz carbon bar with Turbine R Stem
    Invisiframe
    Lenzyn Water Bottle Side Load
    CB Emallet
    Custom Slik Graphics on fork
    (waiting on Rock Guardz as I already cracked an LT)

    The bike weighs 30lb 11oz which is only about 8oz heavier than my LT C with the same build (minus the shock change from DPX2).

    STOOOOOKED. Pics coming soon as soon as I get my graphics all complete.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  99. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    Two rides in on my new V2 HT and I'm pretty mind blown at the improvements over the HTLT I've been on....I ended up doing a warranty frame build:...
    What happened to your HTLT...cracked?

  100. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight70 View Post
    What happened to your HTLT...cracked?
    "crash warranty". Maybe I should clarify. I've had a rough go with frames the last two years. LOL Santa Cruz, as expected, has been outstanding to work with.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  101. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    Two rides in on my new V2 HT and I'm pretty mind blown at the improvements over the HTLT I've been on. Longer front, more supple/active rear with a ton of support and the better pedal/climbing position. Overall I have nothing but positive things to say about this bike. I ended up doing a warranty frame build:

    CC Blue Frame - Medium
    Fox PE 36 with old offset
    RS Super Deluxe Ultimate
    GX Drivetrain with Turbine cranks, AB oval
    Enduro 305's/Torches, Rekon 2.4 out back with the Dissector 2.4 up front
    XT Brakes, Ice Tek Rotors 203/180
    One up Dropper with V2.1 actuator installed/wolftooth lever
    WTB Koda
    ESI Chunkies
    Santa Cruz carbon bar with Turbine R Stem
    Invisiframe
    Lenzyn Water Bottle Side Load
    CB Emallet
    Custom Slik Graphics on fork
    (waiting on Rock Guardz as I already cracked an LT)

    The bike weighs 30lb 11oz which is only about 8oz heavier than my LT C with the same build (minus the shock change from DPX2).

    STOOOOOKED. Pics coming soon as soon as I get my graphics all complete.
    would love to hear about your tire combo performance, was just considering exactly that to get things a little faster


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  102. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    Two rides in on my new V2 HT and I'm pretty mind blown at the improvements over the HTLT I've been on. Longer front, more supple/active rear with a ton of support and the better pedal/climbing position. Overall I have nothing but positive things to say about this bike. I ended up doing a warranty frame build:

    CC Blue Frame - Medium
    Fox PE 36 with old offset
    RS Super Deluxe Ultimate
    GX Drivetrain with Turbine cranks, AB oval
    Enduro 305's/Torches, Rekon 2.4 out back with the Dissector 2.4 up front
    XT Brakes, Ice Tek Rotors 203/180
    One up Dropper with V2.1 actuator installed/wolftooth lever
    WTB Koda
    ESI Chunkies
    Santa Cruz carbon bar with Turbine R Stem
    Invisiframe
    Lenzyn Water Bottle Side Load
    CB Emallet
    Custom Slik Graphics on fork
    (waiting on Rock Guardz as I already cracked an LT)

    The bike weighs 30lb 11oz which is only about 8oz heavier than my LT C with the same build (minus the shock change from DPX2).

    STOOOOOKED. Pics coming soon as soon as I get my graphics all complete.
    how tall? were you also on a M HTLT?

    Interesting tire combo, also curious on how they are working for you!

  103. #703
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    Iím 5-9, with a rather short inseam at 29.5. Iím a tad old school and prefer my bikes on the smaller side for our twisty east coast stuff.

    The rekon is a fantastic tire but it has a bit of tread squirm in cornering hard. I was one of the lucky few to snag a Dissector in time and Iím in love with it up front. I may throw one on the rear when they hit the shelf in DC. Itís the first time in a while Iím a bit ďunder tiredĒ. Typically Iím a DHF/DHR2 kind of guy. Iíve figured for myself through a lot of trial and error that I really prefer 2.4ís. Iím trying to reel myself back in a bit while making sure Iím not gonna wreck myself in every corner.

  104. #704
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    Dear owners of HT v2,

    Could you post several photos of the rear end? I would like to understand how much room HT has. My local trails have a lot of small rocks and mud.
    I have a CB Riot and I have a problems in early spring and autumn. It has not enough room.

    Thanks

  105. #705
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    Anyone have any more info on the possibility of dropping a DHX2 into the tunnel?
    The owner of that instagram account seems to purged it of any pic of a HT2 w/ a coil...I wonder if he's a SC sponsored rider and they told him to clean it up?
    Of note, he did say his is an XL which likely means the spring is >=500# and "it's snug, but fits."

  106. #706
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    meh...on the red, but this thread needs some more photos anyway. I was trying to play off the logo on the I9's so I was convinced it would be rad. LOL I'll likely change up at some point to green or orange or back to the classy tan. 3 rides in and this thing is DAMN good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hightower V2-img_0620.jpg  

    Hightower V2-img_0617.jpg  

    Hightower V2-img_0621.jpg  

    Santa Cruz HT2

  107. #707
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    meh...on the red, but this thread needs some more photos anyway. I was trying to play off the logo on the I9's so I was convinced it would be rad. LOL I'll likely change up at some point to green or orange or back to the classy tan. 3 rides in and this thing is DAMN good.
    A good rule of thumb is to use the other side of the color wheel as well as the opposite of light/dark.
    There is a good example of the blue base/orange trim on the guy w/ the coil's instagram page. But I think your darkish blue base + a lime green (majority) and pink (minority) would pop nicely. Example: Lime green "Santa Cruz" w/ a pink outline.

    I think when I get around to ordering mine, I'm doing the sand base w/ purple majority and turquoise or lime green (because I have a bunch of lime ano parts) minority.
    Hightower V2-color-spectrum.jpg

  108. #708
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    I don't think I'll ever understand why people want the logo to pop more. I much prefer the subtle logos on the new Tallboys or better yet no logos on the side like most of the latest Specialized and Yeti bikes. If it were me, I'd probably go for a subtly different shade of blue to tone it down a bit. To each their own I guess!

  109. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    I don't think I'll ever understand why people want the logo to pop more. I much prefer the subtle logos on the new Tallboys or better yet no logos on the side like most of the latest Specialized and Yeti bikes. If it were me, I'd probably go for a subtly different shade of blue to tone it down a bit. To each their own I guess!
    Meh, I go both ways on this. Sometimes high contrast (lime on red) and sometimes stealth (ano purple on black). But, of all the comments, it's always "DAYUM that purple is sweet looking!"

  110. #710
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    Yeah for me itís just the ability to create the bike to not look like everyone elseís so I search for options. (Iím in the garage peeling off red as we speak! Lol). I had a Wicklow green and went purple. It was nearly god awful looking and very ďlook at meĒ which isnít quite my style, but every freakin person that stopped me about the bike loved it. Lolol. Whatever. Going back to stock. I have the fox slik graphics with the stock tan color sitting here as option B. Alllll my broís seem to have orange stuff on their bikes so Lime green would be my next try. Maybe.

  111. #711
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    Yeah for me itís just the ability to create the bike to not look like everyone elseís so I search for options. (Iím in the garage peeling off red as we speak! Lol). I had a Wicklow green and went purple. It was nearly god awful looking and very ďlook at meĒ which isnít quite my style, but every freakin person that stopped me about the bike loved it. Lolol. Whatever. Going back to stock. I have the fox slik graphics with the stock tan color sitting here as option B. Alllll my broís seem to have orange stuff on their bikes so Lime green would be my next try. Maybe.
    You can also pattern the decals if you custom order them...
    When I ordered those, he also sent me a set in solid. The hatched ones looked WAY better!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hightower V2-p5pb16681746.jpg  


  112. #712
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    I don't think I'll ever understand why people want the logo to pop more. I much prefer the subtle logos on the new Tallboys or better yet no logos on the side like most of the latest Specialized and Yeti bikes. If it were me, I'd probably go for a subtly different shade of blue to tone it down a bit. To each their own I guess!
    I'm with dlxah on this
    Hightower V2-5620.jpg

  113. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by CORMONTE View Post
    I'm with dlxah on this
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	5620.jpg 
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ID:	1280583
    Is that the sand?
    Has that photo been Google stylized or untouched? It looks to have a bit more green in the mix than I've seen on SC's or Competitive's site... I really need to go see one in person and throw a leg over one to see how it fits!

  114. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight70 View Post
    Is that the sand?
    Has that photo been Google stylized or untouched? It looks to have a bit more green in the mix than I've seen on SC's or Competitive's site... I really need to go see one in person and throw a leg over one to see how it fits!
    Yes, Sand with custom decals. No touch ups, just a fat finger and an IPhone. Lol.

  115. #715
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    After a couple of months of way too much analysis paralysis, the guys at the LBS convinced me the Hightower was the bike to get over the Tallboy. Also ended up ordering an XL. At 6í1Ē with a 33Ē inseam they were adamant a Large would be too small. Theyíre building up an XL for me to pedal around. Iím skeptical about the size.

    Large or XL, CC frame will be here in about a month. Let the build begin.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  116. #716
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    I am 6'1" with 32 inseam and I got a large, I ride a hightower V1 large right now, my recommendation is try both sizes.

  117. #717
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    Hightower V2

    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    After a couple of months of way too much analysis paralysis, the guys at the LBS convinced me the Hightower was the bike to get over the Tallboy. Also ended up ordering an XL. At 6í1Ē with a 33Ē inseam they were adamant a Large would be too small. Theyíre building up an XL for me to pedal around. Iím skeptical about the size.

    Large or XL, CC frame will be here in about a month. Let the build begin.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Iím roughly the same size as you and find that on SC bikes I can generally ride either a large or XL comfortably, but tend to be more confident on the XL.

  118. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    After a couple of months of way too much analysis paralysis, the guys at the LBS convinced me the Hightower was the bike to get over the Tallboy. Also ended up ordering an XL. At 6í1Ē with a 33Ē inseam they were adamant a Large would be too small. Theyíre building up an XL for me to pedal around. Iím skeptical about the size.

    Large or XL, CC frame will be here in about a month. Let the build begin.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Iím a half inch shorter and loved the XL.

  119. #719
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    I'm 6'1" with 34 inseam (long legs...), I was able to demo a Large HT2, and it felt really good both seated or in attack position. The only drawback was the seat post (Bokeyoke 185mm) was set at the minimum insertion mark.

    I'm not sure I'll be able to demo an XL, demo bike are rare in my area, but I'm wondering if XL would not be the best option for me.

  120. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by foxone View Post
    I'm 6'1" with 34 inseam (long legs...), I was able to demo a Large HT2, and it felt really good both seated or in attack position. The only drawback was the seat post (Bokeyoke 185mm) was set at the minimum insertion mark.

    I'm not sure I'll be able to demo an XL, demo bike are rare in my area, but I'm wondering if XL would not be the best option for me.
    I'm 6'-1/2" without shoes and have an XL with 35mm stem and it absolutely fits like a glove. I had an XL HTLT before this and always felt it was a bit short. I have my seat in the middle of the rails. It will take a little bit to get used to the length and it does have a bit of a weakness when going really slow through tight twisty stuff but the pros outweigh the cons in my opinion.
    Slugs love beer.

  121. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    Iím a half inch shorter and loved the XL.
    Interesting. Not gonna lie, I'm wary of the XL. I look at the reach, front center and wheelbase numbers compared to my '16 size large OG Hightower it freaks me out. The new frame in general is much longer in every way. But there's also the shorter and steeper seat tube.

    I gotta stop looked at geo numbers.

    The dude at the shop said I was no question an XL. I'm really curious to sit on it and ride it. The frame is still a month out, I can still switch it to a large.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  122. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Interesting. Not gonna lie, I'm wary of the XL. I look at the reach, front center and wheelbase numbers compared to my '16 size large OG Hightower it freaks me out. The new frame in general is much longer in every way. But there's also the shorter and steeper seat tube.

    I gotta stop looked at geo numbers.

    The dude at the shop said I was no question an XL. I'm really curious to sit on it and ride it. The frame is still a month out, I can still switch it to a large.
    FWIW, Iím a hair under 6í2Ē with long inseam and had an XL OGHT and am on an XL HT2. I find the HT2 feels shorter in the seat to bar (cockpit?) dimensions. Ran a 40mm stem on my OG and find that a 50mm stem works better on the HT2. Although the geo charts make the bike look big on paper, the feel is actually a touch smaller as I have described above. Hope that helps.

  123. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by CORMONTE View Post
    FWIW, Iím a hair under 6í2Ē with long inseam and had an XL OGHT and am on an XL HT2. I find the HT2 feels shorter in the seat to bar (cockpit?) dimensions. Ran a 40mm stem on my OG and find that a 50mm stem works better on the HT2. Although the geo charts make the bike look big on paper, the feel is actually a touch smaller as I have described above. Hope that helps.
    I had to dive in on this a bit. It seems the numbers agree w/ your assessment...
    The effective TT len of the OG HT in XL is 25.59" and 25.39" in the HT2.
    I don't think reach is a good metric to gauge fit...it doesn't account for the portion behind the projection from the BB to the ETT projection.
    Anyway, thanks for the heads up. I backed off from a 50mm to 40mm on my OG HT. Might have to keep that 50 for when I order my HT2

  124. #724
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    I generally use reach for standing fit and TT for seated fit. I have a TT range I like, but only a minimum reach (it would be impossible to make reach too long for me without making TT too long no matter how steep the STA gets)

  125. #725
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronxbomber252 View Post
    I generally use reach for standing fit and TT for seated fit.
    this! I agree that TT is more important when looking for fit, the closer you are from your current bike the better in my opinion, since that's how you spend most of your time seated and climbing. It's unlikely the reach will be too long, since reach can be compensated more easily than ETT by changing your body position when standing on your pedals

  126. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    ...since reach can be compensated more easily than ETT by changing your body position when standing on your pedals
    Depends... Can consider that you can compensate/adjust ETT with moving both saddle fore/aft and stem length, whereas with reach, only can adjust stem really.

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  127. #727
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    Can anyone help me out,

    I need to replace the hydraulic hose for my dropper post (RockShox Reverb Stealth) i can't find the part number for it anywhere.

    Any know what model RockShox Reverb Stealth the HT2 shipped with? more specifically that hose part number?

  128. #728
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    you need to check itís either the Bx or C1 dropper, they both work with the Connectamajig hose.

  129. #729
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  130. #730
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    First big ride on the HT2, and I am super pumped on the rear end of this bike, coming off of the HTLT. Couple of notes....

    First, the rear is way more active with the Super Deluxe Ultimate, and I don't mean that in a bad way. The traction is noticeable going down, especially over high speed chatter. In addition the traction going up over technical sections was much improved as well. The bike over all is way more composed back there.

    It took me what seemed like months to get the DPX2 dialed with the HTLT. The rear end never seemed to have the small bump compliance I dreamed of and I spent time with spacer kits and the shock wiz many, many rides to get it where I felt pretty happy. On this bike, I set sag, went riding and immediately was getting scores on the shockwiz between 88-94%. I made a few personal preference clicks and the thing feels so good I can let it go and move on with my life. Pretty stoked on that.

    The geometry of the bike leaves me in a much better climbing position, I have more traction on the front wheel while climbing (even with the old offset). I'm having less lower back pain as well. The bike does have a bit of a longer feel in the front when out of the saddle in tight terrain but it seems to "carve" better.

    I keep having buddies claiming there are reviews claiming the bike isn't "poppy". I call BS, as I usually tune my shocks and forks a little poppier than most. The rear is more active for sure leading to a more planted feel for sure when things are in need, but the shock is so supportive that I am having no issue popping this bike. It's super fun guys, have no worries if this is your concern. Just my opinion. I feel like a shock can change everything also....I've ridden stock OGHT's with X2's that feel glued to the ground.

    HT2 is a beast of a ride and fun as hell. I couldn't be more stoked on this bike.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  131. #731
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    James River State Park, Richmond, VA
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hightower V2-f19f5ff1-6d81-440c-81fd-1edb252661ec.jpg  

    Santa Cruz HT2

  132. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by CORMONTE View Post
    Yes, Sand with custom decals. No touch ups, just a fat finger and an IPhone. Lol.
    Where are custom decals available? Just got the sand colored HT V2 and although I like the orange, thinking it would be fun to change that up.

    By the way, agree with this post above - the bike can definitely be ridden with a poppy feel. It's not a pogo stick but you can definitely load the suspension and get that "pop" that makes it fun to ride somewhat tame trails.

    Loving this bike! An improvement over my Norco Sight 29er in everyway....

  133. #733
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    [QUOTE=sfmtber;14333971]Where are custom decals available? Just got the sand colored HT V2 and although I like the orange, thinking it would be fun to change that up.

    I got mine from Invisiframe.

  134. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfmtber View Post
    Where are custom decals available? Just got the sand colored HT V2 and although I like the orange, thinking it would be fun to change that up.

    By the way, agree with this post above - the bike can definitely be ridden with a poppy feel. It's not a pogo stick but you can definitely load the suspension and get that "pop" that makes it fun to ride somewhat tame trails.

    Loving this bike! An improvement over my Norco Sight 29er in everyway....

    As far as I know the two choices for stickers are Santa Cruz and Invisiframe. I would recommend the Invisiframe as the Santa Cruz versions weren't quite large enough to cover the stock logo. In addition for just a few dollars more, the IF versions come with additional stickers so that all the logos over the bike match.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  135. #735
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    First big ride on the HT2, and I am super pumped on the rear end of this bike, coming off of the HTLT. Couple of notes....

    First, the rear is way more active with the Super Deluxe Ultimate, and I don't mean that in a bad way. The traction is noticeable going down, especially over high speed chatter. In addition the traction going up over technical sections was much improved as well. The bike over all is way more composed back there.

    It took me what seemed like months to get the DPX2 dialed with the HTLT. The rear end never seemed to have the small bump compliance I dreamed of and I spent time with spacer kits and the shock wiz many, many rides to get it where I felt pretty happy. On this bike, I set sag, went riding and immediately was getting scores on the shockwiz between 88-94%. I made a few personal preference clicks and the thing feels so good I can let it go and move on with my life. Pretty stoked on that.

    The geometry of the bike leaves me in a much better climbing position, I have more traction on the front wheel while climbing (even with the old offset). I'm having less lower back pain as well. The bike does have a bit of a longer feel in the front when out of the saddle in tight terrain but it seems to "carve" better.

    I keep having buddies claiming there are reviews claiming the bike isn't "poppy". I call BS, as I usually tune my shocks and forks a little poppier than most. The rear is more active for sure leading to a more planted feel for sure when things are in need, but the shock is so supportive that I am having no issue popping this bike. It's super fun guys, have no worries if this is your concern. Just my opinion. I feel like a shock can change everything also....I've ridden stock OGHT's with X2's that feel glued to the ground.

    HT2 is a beast of a ride and fun as hell. I couldn't be more stoked on this bike.
    This is exactly how I would describe the bike.

  136. #736
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    Hi all,
    has anyone installed a 200mm c1 reverb in a 2020 large frame? I'd like to know if the seat post can be inserted all the way down to the collar or does the bottom of the post start to interfere with the shock chunnel?
    Cheers

  137. #737
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    I watched MTB yumyum's live chat and there's lot of HT2 discussion in there. He compares it some to the Tallboy, Instinct, Ripmo and Tallboy. At his own admission, he does say he's a little biased against SC. I've got a chance to demo the HT2 this weekend and hoping to get a bit of time on one.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYlo_WM4cjc
    2020 Ripmo AF

  138. #738
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    Tony posted his HT2 suspension analysis on Linkage Design today. Looks pretty much as expected, but here's the link if anybody is interested: Santa Cruz Hightower 2020 - Linkage Design

  139. #739
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    Tony posted his HT2 suspension analysis on Linkage Design today. Looks pretty much as expected, but here's the link if anybody is interested: Santa Cruz Hightower 2020 - Linkage Design
    Great find man. Thats a hellaciously different looking leverage curve than the HTLT. Wow.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  140. #740
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    Tony posted his HT2 suspension analysis on Linkage Design today. Looks pretty much as expected, but here's the link if anybody is interested: Santa Cruz Hightower 2020 - Linkage Design
    Thanks for posting! I've been waiting for this for a while.

  141. #741
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    Fellow 2020 HT owners, Iím on a large Carbon S build and love the way this bike feels going downhill. However I feel like Iíve given up some of the uphill efficiency compared to some other bikes Iíve demoed/owned. I get that this version of the HT is more dh oriented but has anyone else noticed this? Have you tried to remedy it with lighter wheelsets or different tires?

    FYI I have the stock tires and alloy wheelset. Sag is set at 28% currently. Locking out the rear shock helps but Iíd like to keep it open for chunky sections while climbing.

  142. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biffard View Post
    Fellow 2020 HT owners, Iím on a large Carbon S build and love the way this bike feels going downhill. However I feel like Iíve given up some of the uphill efficiency compared to some other bikes Iíve demoed/owned. I get that this version of the HT is more dh oriented but has anyone else noticed this? Have you tried to remedy it with lighter wheelsets or different tires?

    FYI I have the stock tires and alloy wheelset. Sag is set at 28% currently. Locking out the rear shock helps but Iíd like to keep it open for chunky sections while climbing.
    try adding some lsc clicks to see if it helps, this was mentioned a while ago in this thread see how it goes!

  143. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biffard View Post
    Fellow 2020 HT owners, Iím on a large Carbon S build and love the way this bike feels going downhill. However I feel like Iíve given up some of the uphill efficiency compared to some other bikes Iíve demoed/owned. I get that this version of the HT is more dh oriented but has anyone else noticed this? Have you tried to remedy it with lighter wheelsets or different tires?

    FYI I have the stock tires and alloy wheelset. Sag is set at 28% currently. Locking out the rear shock helps but Iíd like to keep it open for chunky sections while climbing.
    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    There are a few options for increasing anti-squat. Running the flip chip in the high position and/or running less sag in the rear would keep you higher in the anti-squat curve and effectively increase the amount of anti-squat by maybe a few percent. Less sag also generally means a firmer spring rate, which can help reduce bob as well. Maybe you could pair that with a smaller volume spacer in the shock so you still use full travel. You could also run a smaller chainring to increase the amount of anti-squat throughout the entire range of travel by maybe a few percent per chainring size. Pairing that with a 9t cassette like the E-13 TRS would enable you to drop down a chainring size without significantly changing your gear ratios.
    Adding LSC could help as well, but I don't think the Select+ shock on the S build has a LSC adjuster aside from the climb switch.

  144. #744
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    Installed my invisiframe kit and threw on some gray stickers to see how it looked. Not bad.






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  145. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    After a couple of months of way too much analysis paralysis, the guys at the LBS convinced me the Hightower was the bike to get over the Tallboy. Also ended up ordering an XL. At 6í1Ē with a 33Ē inseam they were adamant a Large would be too small. Theyíre building up an XL for me to pedal around. Iím skeptical about the size.

    Large or XL, CC frame will be here in about a month. Let the build begin.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm half an inch shorter than you with similar inseam and after demoing XL I changed my order from L to XL. I currently have L sized OGHT and while it is agile little thing while circling around trees, I've always felt it being too small when the ride gets rough.
    Roots, bloody roots

  146. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by MySpaceTOM View Post
    Installed my invisiframe kit and threw on some gray stickers to see how it looked. Not bad.
    Black decals will look much nicer on your bike.

  147. #747
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddy-Runs View Post
    Black decals will look much nicer on your bike.
    Iím sure. But why not try something different. Itís just a sticker


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  148. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by MySpaceTOM View Post
    Iím sure. But why not try something different. Itís just a sticker
    Experiments are good, i do so as well before i'm settling down

    The reason i said black decals was coz the rest of your parts n' decals are back.

    Either way, i like your build, looks nice with just the right parts.

  149. #749
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    FYI, I emailed Rockguardz to see if they were close to getting one sized out for the HT2 and they just haven't gotten their hands on a bike yet to do so. The megatower is done, but no HT2 yet. There really wasn't any outlook given on timing, so I'm just keeping my fingers crossed it's soon.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  150. #750
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    I am running a 160mm air spring on a Pike Ultimate on my V2. There are hash marks on the stanchions for 150mm and 160mm travel for setting the sag. Fork feels really nice. Coming off 4 bikes with Lyriks I find the Pike totally capable for me at 175 pounds.

  151. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuch View Post
    FYI, I emailed Rockguardz to see if they were close to getting one sized out for the HT2 and they just haven't gotten their hands on a bike yet to do so. The megatower is done, but no HT2 yet. There really wasn't any outlook given on timing, so I'm just keeping my fingers crossed it's soon.
    I bought the Rockguardz for my 2019 and although it does help with small rock hits and looks fantastic, it also drove me crazy because it creaks like crazy when on the bike. Drove me up the wall thinking it was either my seatpost or my BB.
    Ride

  152. #752
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biohazard74 View Post
    I bought the Rockguardz for my 2019 and although it does help with small rock hits and looks fantastic, it also drove me crazy because it creaks like crazy when on the bike. Drove me up the wall thinking it was either my seatpost or my BB.
    Did you cover the frame w/ some clear bra or Invisiframe? If not, that creaking may be the carbon on the inside of the Rockguardz rubbing the paint off of your frame.

  153. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddy-Runs View Post
    Experiments are good, i do so as well before i'm settling down

    The reason i said black decals was coz the rest of your parts n' decals are back.

    Either way, i like your build, looks nice with just the right parts.
    Thanks! The gray definitely has a different look in person. This tan has some green in it. I think the right combo of olive green stickers on frame and fork would really flow well.

    The options are endless! Haha


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  154. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight70 View Post
    Did you cover the frame w/ some clear bra or Invisiframe? If not, that creaking may be the carbon on the inside of the Rockguardz rubbing the paint off of your frame.
    Was about to mention exactly that. Had one on my v2 Bronson on the bare frame. When I pulled it off I found the small gap at the top was enough to let dirt and what not in and was marking up the frame pretty bad.

    Ironically I took a rock strike hard enough to crack my frame anyways.

  155. #755
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jukas View Post
    Ironically I took a rock strike hard enough to crack my frame anyways.
    You know, I was wondering about that...xfer of forces w/ such tight fit would be directly to the frame carbon. Not sure on this but if you insert a pliable layer like the 8mil thick clear bra film, it'll mitigate a bit of the direct guard to frame force xfer...?

  156. #756
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    Has anyone confirmed the weight of only the frame and shock of a large C model?

  157. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Has anyone confirmed the weight of only the frame and shock of a large C model?
    3.126 kg C frame, size L, no shock
    2.876 kg CC frame, size L, no shock

    Super Deluxe is probably about 450-460g

  158. #758
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    CC frame with shock approx. 7.4 pounds then...

    Ripmo AF just under a pound heavier.

    I'm torn between the lighter weight/better climbing ability of the TB4 vs the rowdy nature of the HT2 and the Ripmo AF.

    What a terrible conundrum!
    2020 SC Hightower

  159. #759
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    CC frame with shock approx. 7.4 pounds then...

    Ripmo AF just under a pound heavier.

    I'm torn between the lighter weight/better climbing ability of the TB4 vs the rowdy nature of the HT2 and the Ripmo AF.

    What a terrible conundrum!
    I don't get how you guys will buy a bike based on its climbing ability, unless you are racing or something. LOL The HT2 is probably the best climbing bike I've ever owned (4 stumpies, Troy, 2 HTLT, Capra, Reign and a few other mistakes I wont mention LOL). And then when you point down the decision you just made to buy that HT2 is going to make you smile so damn big!

    My build is 30-8oz. You may be climbing wayyyy more than me and I understand that, but if you were my bro, I'd be pushing you to the HT all day. Unless - you are literally riding XC trails every weekend, you never leave the ground, etc...at some point the returns would be worthless I guess. The TB does look like a fantastic bike but it may have some limits based on what you are doing. I feel genuinely like the HT2 is about as close as I can get to a one bike quiver killer.
    Santa Cruz HT2

  160. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    3.126 kg C frame, size L, no shock
    2.876 kg CC frame, size L, no shock

    Super Deluxe is probably about 450-460g
    2790g CC frame, size M, no shock

    504g Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate, with hardware

    So 7.25 lbs with shock

  161. #761
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    I have 4-5 rides on my new Hightower and thought I'd give some input.

    I'm 5'10" and got a size large CC custom build. Using a 40mm stem right now. I couldn't decide between the M or the L, ultimately decided to go with SC's recommendation. The bike is huge compared to my last bike, which only had a reach of 440 and a 50mm stem and a wheelbase of 1180, so it's a big change.

    The bike feels so good and comfortable going downhill at high speed, it just begs you to push it faster and faster, at flattish slow speeds in really chunky/rocky stuff it feels big and weird. I think this has more to do with the head angle and short offset fork though than the size of the bike. I'm using a lyrik at 160mm and the head angle is probably 64.7 degrees or so, a big change from my prior bike which had a 66 degree head angle and less trail so much less wheel flop. I'd probably be just as happy with a size medium with a 50mm stem - all that to say that at 5'10", either a medium or a large should fit.

    The bike is extremely soft/plush off the top of the stroke - it tracks the ground so well. It makes the little roots and rocks in the trail almost disappear and is insanely fast. It's not boring though, you can still pop it off everything and hopping/jumping the bike feels very natural. I love the suspension. Pedaling platform and climbing position is great and I don't get any detectable bob while climbing whatsoever (using 4 clicks of LSC on the shock). There isn't a ton of room on the rear triangle for a wide tire - i'm using a 2.3 aggressor and I don't know if a 2.5 aggressor would fit very well. I'll try a 2.4 dissector if they are ever in stock again.

    I want to try lowering the fork to 150mm and see how that feels compared to the 160mm. Might feel a little better for general trail riding.

    Also 12 speed XT is AMAZING.

  162. #762
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    Got a demo on a cc xo reserve build today. Compared to my ripmo af, it was more similar then I thought it'd be. Rolled faster due to lighter wheels and tires on this build. Pedaled up and over obstacles in a similar way but I feel the ripmo does it a bit smoother but not by a lot. HT2 is super quiet. Loved that. No noise at all. Rear suspension over both large and small hits felt pretty similar. AF feels a bit more stable likely due to mine having 2.5 assegais, 160 fork and bit more rear travel. HT2 tad more nimble for the same reasons. Lyrik ultimate was butter, so smooth. Small bump compliance is top notch. Mid and end support feels the same as my DVO and 36s I've been on lately. I might need to get a lyrik now. Geo felt the same as my af, because it is. Reverb felt like it had a hand full of sawdust dumped inside. Those things suck compared to a transfer or bike yoke. Anyways, fun bike and I'd recommend to anyone. Not better or worse than my Ripmo, just a different ride. I wanted to try the tallboy but the clouds opened up and it started dumping.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hightower V2-screenshot_2019-09-28-18-17-55-1.jpg  

    2020 Ripmo AF

  163. #763
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    Are you running air or coil on the Ripmo?
    2020 SC Hightower

  164. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    Are you running air or coil on the Ripmo?
    Air for now. I haven't seen any with the coil or slx kits yet. Probably soon.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  165. #765
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    I started this thread on July 2 and it took until yesterday, September 28, for me to ride the Hightower V2.

    I was not impressed. The size felt wrong for me even though I have no problem with other large SC bikes. The HT reminded me too much of Megatower which was definitely not a bike I would buy. For the correct rider in the proper terrain, it would be an great bike but that rider is just not me.

    I also got to ride the new Tallboy and have demo'ed (5 times) the latest Bronson. Owning a 5010 and liking 27.5, I'm not surprised that I feel at home on the Bronson. Up until I finally got my hands on a Tallboy, the Bronson was my favorite.

    It was the Tallboy that impressed me most though. Maybe its geometry is close to the Hightower but it felt right for me and nimble, something I find I like in a bike. I ride my old 5010 over some pretty technical stuff and had no problem with the Tallboy in similar conditions so, I guess, for me, the Tallboy V4 was the surprise winner.

    In person, I liked the tan Hightower over the blue and the yellow Tallboy over the purple and any color looked right on the Bronson.

  166. #766
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev Bubba View Post
    I started this thread on July 2 and it took until yesterday, September 28, for me to ride the Hightower V2.

    I was not impressed. The size felt wrong for me even though I have no problem with other large SC bikes. The HT reminded me too much of Megatower which was definitely not a bike I would buy. For the correct rider in the proper terrain, it would be an great bike but that rider is just not me.

    I also got to ride the new Tallboy and have demo'ed (5 times) the latest Bronson. Owning a 5010 and liking 27.5, I'm not surprised that I feel at home on the Bronson. Up until I finally got my hands on a Tallboy, the Bronson was my favorite.

    It was the Tallboy that impressed me most though. Maybe its geometry is close to the Hightower but it felt right for me and nimble, something I find I like in a bike. I ride my old 5010 over some pretty technical stuff and had no problem with the Tallboy in similar conditions so, I guess, for me, the Tallboy V4 was the surprise winner.

    In person, I liked the tan Hightower over the blue and the yellow Tallboy over the purple and any color looked right on the Bronson.
    Aside from wheelbase, the sizing between the TB and HT is almost identical, so not sure how the HT could feel wrong.

  167. #767
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev Bubba View Post
    I started this thread on July 2 and it took until yesterday, September 28, for me to ride the Hightower V2.

    I was not impressed. The size felt wrong for me even though I have no problem with other large SC bikes. The HT reminded me too much of Megatower which was definitely not a bike I would buy. For the correct rider in the proper terrain, it would be an great bike but that rider is just not me.

    I also got to ride the new Tallboy and have demo'ed (5 times) the latest Bronson. Owning a 5010 and liking 27.5, I'm not surprised that I feel at home on the Bronson. Up until I finally got my hands on a Tallboy, the Bronson was my favorite.

    It was the Tallboy that impressed me most though. Maybe its geometry is close to the Hightower but it felt right for me and nimble, something I find I like in a bike. I ride my old 5010 over some pretty technical stuff and had no problem with the Tallboy in similar conditions so, I guess, for me, the Tallboy V4 was the surprise winner.

    In person, I liked the tan Hightower over the blue and the yellow Tallboy over the purple and any color looked right on the Bronson.
    How tall are you and which sizes did you demo?

  168. #768
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    5"11 - Large. Same size I demo'ed on all SC bikes and same size I've owned on three.

  169. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev Bubba View Post
    5"11 - Large. Same size I demo'ed on all SC bikes and same size I've owned on three.
    HT2 in L felt too big? Interesting.
    I am deciding between M and L TB4 and I am just around 5'8.5" with 31" inseam. They both felt good and I could make work either of them.

  170. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    HT2 in L felt too big? Interesting.
    I am deciding between M and L TB4 and I am just around 8'5" with 31" inseam. They both felt good and I could make work either of them.
    same for me but between small and medium at 5í5Ē, what is making me go for the M is that with the S I keep feeling Iím too much on top of the front wheel on downhills, yes the larger size is less nimble but that comes with a more planted feeling during downhills at not much cost climbing, or managing the bike at slow speeds

    if in between sizes Iíd consider going for the larger size!

  171. #771
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    same for me but between small and medium at 5í5Ē, what is making me go for the M is that with the S I keep feeling Iím too much on top of the front wheel on downhills, yes the larger size is less nimble but that comes with a more planted feeling during downhills at not much cost climbing, or managing the bike at slow speeds

    if in between sizes Iíd consider going for the larger size!
    I'm 5'6" and ride a medium Trance but with these newer bikes, what was medium is now a small. On paper, a new medium looks too big for me. I think biggest concern is seatpost height. I've demoed a few medium bikes that even with the dropper slammed, the fully extended dropper wasn't low enough for me.

  172. #772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev Bubba View Post
    I also got to ride the new Tallboy and have demo'ed (5 times) the latest Bronson. Owning a 5010 and liking 27.5, I'm not surprised that I feel at home on the Bronson. Up until I finally got my hands on a Tallboy, the Bronson was my favorite.

    It was the Tallboy that impressed me most though. Maybe its geometry is close to the Hightower but it felt right for me and nimble, something I find I like in a bike. I ride my old 5010 over some pretty technical stuff and had no problem with the Tallboy in similar conditions so, I guess, for me, the Tallboy V4 was the surprise winner.
    Your words are like poetry. I too love how the 5010 pedals and how Bronson descends and was hoping the Tallboy was some kind meeting in the middle. Can't wait to demo it in November.

  173. #773
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikeventures View Post
    I'm 5'6" and ride a medium Trance but with these newer bikes, what was medium is now a small. On paper, a new medium looks too big for me. I think biggest concern is seatpost height. I've demoed a few medium bikes that even with the dropper slammed, the fully extended dropper wasn't low enough for me.
    Iím ~29ish inseam and can fit a 150 reverb on a M hightower, has about maybe 1/2Ē exposed post, almost slammed but not quite

    You should fit on a M given that you ride a M trance with longer ett (610 vs 596) and just 15mm less reach (435 vs 450), I think the most noticiable would be the massive wheelbase (1160 vs 1207)

  174. #774
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    Hi all - I have a deposit down on an Alloy 2020 HT now after sizing a Carbon up at my local shop in the UK (Stif).

    Will be replacing a 110mm Travel Orange Stage 4 - I wanted something a bit more capable and active feeling ( and with bottle bosses )


    Most of my kit will swap over (Mavic Trail Elites, practrically new 11SpXTR) but I need to source a fork.

    I considered stretching my Fox 34 to 150mm but I think it will be too noodly.

    150mm Pike RCT2 with Charger 2 damper is currently available new, at a very good price - I am tempted. The alternative is a used Lyrik, otherwise Sitf have a sale coming up and are promising a good deal on a 2018/2019 36 Performance with the original GRIP damper (which would match the Fox DPS that comes on the frame only nicely).

    Bearing in mind I'm aiming for 'capable trail bike' as oppposed to 'Mini enduro bike' , do you reckon its worth going for the burlier forks?



    Alloy frames landing in the UK in a month or so, dont suppose anyone on here has picked up an Alloy frame yet?

  175. #775
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    My opinion is if you're under 200 lbs and are doing moderate trail riding you can go with a Pike or 34 if you want to save some weight. If you're heavier, jump a lot or are more aggressive then go bigger. The mid-weight forks can be ridden hard but like you said, you can feel them flex sometimes.
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  176. #776
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    Reverb felt like it had a hand full of sawdust dumped inside.
    sounds about right lol - same experience here.

  177. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    HT2 in L felt too big? Interesting.
    I am deciding between M and L TB4 and I am just around 5'8.5" with 31" inseam. They both felt good and I could make work either of them.
    Im also 5"11 and the HT2 L initially felt too big. Then I realized it's just the geo that's different from what i'm used to and its not too big for me - its actually the right size. After just one lap of a technical trail it was clear to me size was right that is, and it made sense how the bike was built after that. Going on the M, the M was definitely too small.

    Hope that helps

  178. #778
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    Randomish question:
    Given SantaCruz sells the Carbon CC frame from 3200USD and the aluminum frame for 2000USD. If they sold the Carbon C frame, how much do you think you'd pay for it?

    There aren't weights of the alu frame, and alu is a bit different than carbon but.. I've a feeling the weight is not all that different from a Carbon C and that it might be why they don't sell it frame only. There is approx 250grams difference between C and CC according to posts in this thread (seems accurate)

  179. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Randomish question:
    Given SantaCruz sells the Carbon CC frame from 3200USD and the aluminum frame for 2000USD. If they sold the Carbon C frame, how much do you think you'd pay for it?

    There aren't weights of the alu frame, and alu is a bit different than carbon but.. I've a feeling the weight is not all that different from a Carbon C and that it might be why they don't sell it frame only. There is approx 250grams difference between C and CC according to posts in this thread (seems accurate)
    There's actually a pretty significant weight difference between aluminum and carbon C this time around. 1079g according to SC.

    4.205 kg AL frame, size L, no shock
    3.126 kg C frame, size L, no shock
    2.876 kg CC frame, size L, no shock

  180. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlxah View Post
    There's actually a pretty significant weight difference between aluminum and carbon C this time around. 1079g according to SC.

    4.205 kg AL frame, size L, no shock
    3.126 kg C frame, size L, no shock
    2.876 kg CC frame, size L, no shock
    Oh wow. thanks!

  181. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    sounds about right lol - same experience here.
    I hate to say it but while looking at new SC's at two shops here, 3/4 of the Reverbs felt like that. One other gripe is those 370 hubs make an annoying "boing" noise each time the pedals are engaged/free hub first engages. The 350 hubs don't do this. I am aware that the free hub body can be changed.
    2020 Ripmo AF

  182. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4dr View Post
    I hate to say it but while looking at new SC's at two shops here, 3/4 of the Reverbs felt like that. One other gripe is those 370 hubs make an annoying "boing" noise each time the pedals are engaged/free hub first engages. The 350 hubs don't do this. I am aware that the free hub body can be changed.
    Yes I feel like SC cheaped out on these. The demo bike I tested at their HQ first week of release already had issues - and the person from SC there said nearly all their reverbs did and that employees that buy these bikes swap them for Fox transfers or similar.

    The 370's had no problem for me but I definitely would rather have 350, I've heard so many horror stories on the 370. I wonder if some of the freehubs are also 18T, these definitely "boing" a lot more. Upgrade of the ratchet to 54t being about 50USD.

  183. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    sounds about right lol - same experience here.
    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Yes I feel like SC cheaped out on these. The demo bike I tested at their HQ first week of release already had issues - and the person from SC there said nearly all their reverbs did and that employees that buy these bikes swap them for Fox transfers or similar.
    My reverb (the new, redesigned one) broke and I haven't been able to ride in weeks because of it. How all reverbs haven't been recalled and discontinued yet is an enigma as the product is fatally flawed.

    Its a serious pile of garbage. Seriously. <insert poop emoji here> I can't believe someone can sell something this flawed, buying the hightower with the reverb is like buying a super expensive luxury car with a greater than 50% chance that some random small part is going to break and make the entire car a paperweight.

    That is my only real complaint about the bike, plus some squeaking, which might be the frame, but I still won't know until I get my fixed reverb. I just wanna ride while the weather is still good!

  184. #784
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    My reverb (the new, redesigned one) broke and I haven't been able to ride in weeks because of it. How all reverbs haven't been recalled and discontinued yet is an enigma as the product is fatally flawed.

    Its a serious pile of garbage. Seriously. <insert poop emoji here> I can't believe someone can sell something this flawed, buying the hightower with the reverb is like buying a super expensive luxury car with a greater than 50% chance that some random small part is going to break and make the entire car a paperweight.

    That is my only real complaint about the bike, plus some squeaking, which might be the frame, but I still won't know until I get my fixed reverb. I just wanna ride while the weather is still good!
    I keep an old fashioned seatpost around for this exact reason.

  185. #785
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    Guess I've been lucky. Had at least half a dozen Reverbs over the years -- including the new one I swapped to my Ripmo when I sold my HT2 -- and not a single problem. It's not a product I'd choose to buy personally, but it being on a factory build doesn't deter me one bit.
    Just like a raindrop, I was born to fall.

  186. #786
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    My reverb (the new, redesigned one) broke and I haven't been able to ride in weeks because of it. How all reverbs haven't been recalled and discontinued yet is an enigma as the product is fatally flawed.

    Its a serious pile of garbage. Seriously. <insert poop emoji here> I can't believe someone can sell something this flawed, buying the hightower with the reverb is like buying a super expensive luxury car with a greater than 50% chance that some random small part is going to break and make the entire car a paperweight.

    That is my only real complaint about the bike, plus some squeaking, which might be the frame, but I still won't know until I get my fixed reverb. I just wanna ride while the weather is still good!
    I was just talking to the dude at my local shop about what dropper to put in my HT2 frame. I'll be using my 2 year old, problem free Fox Transfer but he swears then Reverbs are the best out there. Ha! I've owned enough Reverbs to know better.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  187. #787
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    Finally I got my bike, I can't wait to go riding!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  188. #788
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    My reverb (the new, redesigned one) broke and I haven't been able to ride in weeks because of it. How all reverbs haven't been recalled and discontinued yet is an enigma as the product is fatally flawed.

    Its a serious pile of garbage. Seriously. <insert poop emoji here> I can't believe someone can sell something this flawed, buying the hightower with the reverb is like buying a super expensive luxury car with a greater than 50% chance that some random small part is going to break and make the entire car a paperweight.

    That is my only real complaint about the bike, plus some squeaking, which might be the frame, but I still won't know until I get my fixed reverb. I just wanna ride while the weather is still good!
    On my third reverb as well.


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  189. #789
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    My reverb (the new, redesigned one) broke and I haven't been able to ride in weeks because of it. How all reverbs haven't been recalled and discontinued yet is an enigma as the product is fatally flawed.

    Its a serious pile of garbage. Seriously. <insert poop emoji here> I can't believe someone can sell something this flawed, buying the hightower with the reverb is like buying a super expensive luxury car with a greater than 50% chance that some random small part is going to break and make the entire car a paperweight.

    That is my only real complaint about the bike, plus some squeaking, which might be the frame, but I still won't know until I get my fixed reverb. I just wanna ride while the weather is still good!
    I have three Reverbs and I've yet to have an issue. I've read all the hate but at this point, if one of mine failed or acted up, I'd buy another one.

  190. #790
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    On my third reverb as well.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Mine was warrantied 3 times on my 2018 HT...finally just got a Fox Transfer with a credit for the RS. No issues since.


  191. #791
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    I live and ride on the North Shore / Squamish / Whistler / Pemberton. I have a DH bike and ride the Whistler park fairly often. (Although I'm not a fan of it).

    I'm trying to decide between a Megatower and the new Hightower. I'm looking for a very capable, confidence inspiring descender. I like having a strong pedaling bike, but it's not a priority. Ideally I can replace my DH and trail bikes with this and ride anything in the sea to sky.

    I'm currently leaning towards the Megatower as I'd like to have a bike I can trust to carry me through some hairy stuff.

    Were any of you guys on the fence? What made you go with one over the other?

  192. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    Guess I've been lucky. Had at least half a dozen Reverbs over the years -- including the new one I swapped to my Ripmo when I sold my HT2 -- and not a single problem. It's not a product I'd choose to buy personally, but it being on a factory build doesn't deter me one bit.
    Quote Originally Posted by twodownzero View Post
    I have three Reverbs and I've yet to have an issue. I've read all the hate but at this point, if one of mine failed or acted up, I'd buy another one.
    No doubt that the reverb was great when it worked properly, it had lots of travel, went up and down quickly and smoothly. Then all wasn't so great...

    Call it user error but somehow my fox transfer post that is a few years old and has seen its share of abuse still works great while the reverb became problematic after only a short period of time. The fox has a lot shorter travel so that may be a factor but who knows.

    When functioning correctly it is a great post with nothing to complain about! But the "functioning correctly" bit seems to be a problem all too often.

    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    I was just talking to the dude at my local shop about what dropper to put in my HT2 frame. I'll be using my 2 year old, problem free Fox Transfer but he swears then Reverbs are the best out there. Ha! I've owned enough Reverbs to know better.
    Quote Originally Posted by jncarpenter View Post
    Mine was warrantied 3 times on my 2018 HT...finally just got a Fox Transfer with a credit for the RS. No issues since.
    As I wrote just above in this comment here, the fox transfer is great! I am guessing its on the heavier side for a seatpost and you probably can only run a 150 on a bike that you can run a 175 reverb, but the reliability is good.

    JNC how did you get a credit though for the reverb? I don't want to spend $400 on a new post but I will not sit sidelined in peak riding weather again if it breaks again.
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    I keep an old fashioned seatpost around for this exact reason.
    I have one hanging around somewhere that I forgot about until I read this, although it would be super awkward going back to riding without a dropper.

  193. #793
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    Since it's an aftermarket replacement anyway, why not looking at other brands for the dropper instead of the usual two brands? I had a Raceface on my HT v1 and I always felt like 150mm was not enough, I got a YEP 185mm one year ago (at the same total lenght of the Raceface) and never looked back, it's great, easy to install, very light, and fully reliable. I also have a OneUP on my XC bike, another great product.
    We just need to stop looking only at Rockshox and Fox...

  194. #794
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    I have the new Reverb that came on my HT2 and so far (700km) it's flawless but the old Reverb on mine and my girlfreinds HT1 stuck so much it is hard to push down with all our weight.

    I demoed a TB3 that also had a terrible Reverb.

    I had an X-Fusion Manic on my Stumpjumper and it worked perfectly for over 7000km and My girlfriend loved her Bike Yoke Revive and is considering replacing her Reverb with a new one.

    If my current new gen. Reverb continues to work fine that will be great, otherwise I think I will get a Bike Yoke Revive.
    2020 SC Hightower v2
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  195. #795
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    My new XL CC frame showed up yesterday. Love the blue color and am amazed how light it is compared to my old Hightower C frame. The shock was kind of a PIA to get in but it went in with some fiddling.

    It won't be built up for a few months but it'll be worth it when its ready for next spring.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  196. #796
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    Quote Originally Posted by Natazhat View Post
    I live and ride on the North Shore / Squamish / Whistler / Pemberton. I have a DH bike and ride the Whistler park fairly often. (Although I'm not a fan of it).

    I'm trying to decide between a Megatower and the new Hightower. I'm looking for a very capable, confidence inspiring descender. I like having a strong pedaling bike, but it's not a priority. Ideally I can replace my DH and trail bikes with this and ride anything in the sea to sky.

    I'm currently leaning towards the Megatower as I'd like to have a bike I can trust to carry me through some hairy stuff.

    Were any of you guys on the fence? What made you go with one over the other?
    Iíve had both and if your priority is DH then get the Megatower. I had a 170mm fork and a coil rear shock and it chewed up pretty much everything I threw at it. My ability was the only thing holding it back. The Hightower is awesome (and I decided to keep that), but thatís primarily because when Iím not at the bike park itís a better all around bike (and Iíve got another big travel bike for park days). I doubt youíd be disappointed with the Megatower.


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  197. #797
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    Recently upgraded my lyrik on my HT2 from 150mm (stock) to 160mm with the Push ACS3 coil kit. Wow! I thought the Lyrik was already pretty nice but the ASC3 gives the bike an incredible feel. Super small bump compliance and traction. Also the bike feels great at 160/140. Definitely worth checking out.

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  198. #798
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    "pro tip" on the linkage, once its sorted out (which might require brand new bearings btw, if theyre broken or too dirty to fix, sadly), put helicopter tape or similar on top of them, which prevents 100% of dirt from coming in from the exposed bolt side. While dirt can technically come in from the other side its much less likely and ive bearings that last years since i do this (vs a few month lol)
    Interesting. Can you post a picture as I'm not sure exactly where you are placing the tape. Thanks.

  199. #799
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fassn8 View Post
    Recently upgraded my lyrik on my HT2 from 150mm (stock) to 160mm with the Push ACS3 coil kit. Wow! I thought the Lyrik was already pretty nice but the ASC3 gives the bike an incredible feel. Super small bump compliance and traction. Also the bike feels great at 160/140. Definitely worth checking out.

    Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
    curious to hear more, I have a 160 lyrik now and was planning on going down to 150 acs3 when itís time for service probably spring 2020, curious to hear more regarding 150 vs 160

  200. #800
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    Super easy to install the ACS3 and you and simply order the length you want. I like having the 160 up front. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

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