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  1. #801
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    Now that people have had their Blurs for a while, does anyone have any comments on how they have worked for racing? It seems like a lot of folks have built them up for fast, light tech, trail bikes, which is cool, but I am interested in race experiences and impressions. One of the things that appeals to be about the Blur is that it looks like it would have great cross over between those two uses with little compromise. A lot of bikes lean one way or the other a bit more.

  2. #802
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    I am not a racer anymore but I did a few events last year for fun. It works great, I made up a lot of time on the downhill portions of the course and the lockout worked great on short burst and uphill. It is a light weight xc bike that goes down well with a lockout. It's hard to go wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by bizango View Post
    Now that people have had their Blurs for a while, does anyone have any comments on how they have worked for racing? It seems like a lot of folks have built them up for fast, light tech, trail bikes, which is cool, but I am interested in race experiences and impressions. One of the things that appeals to be about the Blur is that it looks like it would have great cross over between those two uses with little compromise. A lot of bikes lean one way or the other a bit more.
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  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by bizango View Post
    Now that people have had their Blurs for a while, does anyone have any comments on how they have worked for racing?
    Raced mine eight or so times last year, and can't wait to do it again! It surprised me with how well it did in a smoother, climbing oriented race (not usually my forte), and as ntm1973 mentioned, it takes no prisoners when the going gets rough.

    Rode it as my trail bike most of last season too, and properly equipped (fork, dropper, tires, etc) it's a bunch of fun in that guise too. Such a versatile bike.
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  4. #804
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    Thanks, that is helpful. Are either of you (ntm1973, miles e) running 120mm travel forks?

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by bizango View Post
    Thanks, that is helpful. Are either of you (ntm1973, miles e) running 120mm travel forks?
    ^^This.

    I have been eyeing a Sniper, but have now turned towards a Blur TR, with a dropper and 34SC 120mm. Will also go with 29-30mm ID carbon wheels for a burly build. Wondering who has built up something similar, and what their feedback is. TIA
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  6. #806
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    I have really enjoyed my Blur Tr and think that it is a great race/trail bike. I will have to say that I am debating on selling mine though for something closer to a Ridley/TB for a bit more travel. I know it will be a trade off though as the Blur Tr is more efficient and faster is certain conditions.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    ^^This.

    I have been eyeing a Sniper, but have now turned towards a Blur TR, with a dropper and 34SC 120mm. Will also go with 29-30mm ID carbon wheels for a burly build. Wondering who has built up something similar, and what their feedback is. TIA
    I have the Blur TR and was going to do the same thing but just a heads up that the tire clearance in the rear is pretty accurately 2.4 max as I have a 2.4 tire measuring 2.38 on the i25 stock wheels and it is only maybe 1 or 2 mm away from being too big and I am seeing some signs of very slight rub after a year of riding. These tires have medium sized side knobs too so running i30 with burly 2.4 tires I can already tell won't fit like I had hoped. Luckily the TR build (with 10 more mm on the SC) has been fantastic regardless for a bike that really does actually blur the lines between a race full suspension and a true trail bike.

  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by drdocta View Post
    I have the Blur TR and was going to do the same thing but just a heads up that the tire clearance in the rear is pretty accurately 2.4 max as I have a 2.4 tire measuring 2.38 on the i25 stock wheels and it is only maybe 1 or 2 mm away from being too big and I am seeing some signs of very slight rub after a year of riding. These tires have medium sized side knobs too so running i30 with burly 2.4 tires I can already tell won't fit like I had hoped. Luckily the TR build (with 10 more mm on the SC) has been fantastic regardless for a bike that really does actually blur the lines between a race full suspension and a true trail bike.
    Good to hear, and I’ll likely keep it a 2.35 in back, so I assume that would work.


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  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Will also go with 29-30mm ID carbon wheels for a burly build. Wondering who has built up something similar, and what their feedback is.
    Yep, 120mm 34.

    Last season I was running a 2.4 DHR on Reserve 30's for trail duty, and clearance was adequate. A 2.35 should have plenty of clearance.
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  10. #810
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    Quick question: How do you all feel the CC Blur TR compares to an SB100 Turq, weight and performance wise?

    Thanks!
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  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Quick question: How do you all feel the CC Blur TR compares to an SB100 Turq, weight and performance wise?

    Thanks!
    I've ridden both. The Blur is lighter and less expensive. The SB100 pedals well and is a little better when it gets rowdy. The reason I went with the blur is the lack of quality control on the SB. Seems like even on try #3, the SI unit is still a crap shoot. It's a shame because I probably would have gone with it.
    The SB is more of a leave it in open or trail all the time and just enjoy the ride kinda whip. The Blur is a little more race focused. Both are amazingly capable considering the limited travel.


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  12. #812
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    Just built up a Blur with a FOX SC34 120mm fork. I rode with a 100mm and then the 120mm, but I think for me the sweet spot is just in-between at 110. I called around and some folks said you can't buy a 110 air spring for the SC fork. Bad info? True? Any help would be great. Thanks.

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by george7117 View Post
    Just built up a Blur with a FOX SC34 120mm fork. I rode with a 100mm and then the 120mm, but I think for me the sweet spot is just in-between at 110. I called around and some folks said you can't buy a 110 air spring for the SC fork. Bad info? True? Any help would be great. Thanks.
    You will Need a new Airshaft: 820-02-542-KIT Service Set: Air Shaft Assy, 2019, 34 SC, 110mm, FLOAT LC NA 2, 1.214 Bore, Al NP

  14. #814
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    That's what I built. 120mm fork, bonty line pro 30 wheels, 2.35" xr2 rear, 2.4" xr4 front. so much fun, but it just got better...………... pressed in a pair of offset bushings to the CC DB inline air shock and rode this weekend. changes bike to a 67deg HTA and 72deg STA and lowers the BB slightly, but didn't notice any pedal strikes. Bike stock is 69deg, 120fork gets you to 68deg, two bushings is 67deg
    Oh my lord does it rail now! it rides so much harder and confident on steeper descents, but the most noticeable change is the cornering. it now rails the corners. I can lean it over further and harder and faster that i'm now thinking of trying some RIMPACT tire inserts. Climbing efficiency may have decreased slightly, but not much. Will have to get in a few more rides on trails with more sustained climbs to really know for sure. I couldn't tell from the first ride with the bushings, likely because I of the smiling and yelling while bombing trails faster than I ever have on it b4. Additionally, I feel more IN the bike now with the bushing changes. it wasn't bad before, but the blur always had a slight ON TOP of the bike feeling vs IN the bike feeling if that makes any sense.

    It's a cheap upgrade that nets big benefits IMO. For those of you running 100mm forks, it would be even more beneficial to get the HTA to 68deg without having to swap forks.

    check em out. you order buy putting in your bike/shock info. those of you with the OEM fox shock will get the offset bushings with replacement DU bushings. but order the DU bushing install tool as well or have a shop do it for you.

    https://www.offsetbushings.com/colle...-bushings-pair

    more to come after additional rides. Also toying with trying a RWC needle bearing kit and only running one offset bushing for a 67.5 HTA. could be the sweet spot.

    I love this bike. can you tell!!

    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    ^^This.

    I have been eyeing a Sniper, but have now turned towards a Blur TR, with a dropper and 34SC 120mm. Will also go with 29-30mm ID carbon wheels for a burly build. Wondering who has built up something similar, and what their feedback is. TIA

  15. #815
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    Large Blur, 120mm fork, bonty line pro 30 wheels, 2.35" xr2 rear, 2.4" xr4 front, 70deg stem, 2 offset bushings = 67deg HTA. I'm 5'10, 32" inseam, long arms, 2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-blur-67deg-hta.jpg

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catsoft View Post
    You will Need a new Airshaft: 820-02-542-KIT Service Set: Air Shaft Assy, 2019, 34 SC, 110mm, FLOAT LC NA 2, 1.214 Bore, Al NP
    Thanks. I contacted a World Cyclery and they said that you couldn't modify a SC34 fork ..... perhaps they were wrong? Thanks again.

  17. #817
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    Quote Originally Posted by george7117 View Post
    Thanks. I contacted a World Cyclery and they said that you couldn't modify a SC34 fork ..... perhaps they were wrong? Thanks again.
    I modifyed my "normal" 34 from 120mm to 110mm and that realy was easy. The 34 SC should be the same. So check the tutorial Video and then just do it.

    Changing Travel is descibed here: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=615

    For OilBath look here: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=987

    And as you can see here, there is only one Damper für 100-120mm as it´s on the "normal" 34: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=955

    Normaly you could use all small parts again so you will only Need the AirShaft and oil. If your LBS can´t do that, look for a new dealer ;-)

  18. #818
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    longer ride last night with some good climbing. 67 HTA is great for trails that aren't tight and twisty with switchbacks. She wasn't as agile in the tight stuff, which makes sense. Ideally, it'd be great to have two shocks. 1 set up with both offset bushings at 67deg for those flow- down hill style trails and a standard shock (rockshox deluxe rt3) with no offset bushings at 68.5/68 HTA with a 110/120 fork. Still didn't notice any issues with SeatTubeAngle and climbing. likely because the bike is already a great climber and a tilt of the seat more forward seems to accommodate for the slacker angle.

    Still, those offset bushings are a great value if you don't want to change your fork from stock. no play, no noises, solid.

    cheers

  19. #819
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    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-img_0072.jpg

    I didn't like the canned builds that Santa Cruz offers so I built mine to meet my likes. I am pretty excited how it turned out and the weight (23.76 ready to ride). I can't wait to test it on the trails!

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by george7117 View Post
    Just built up a Blur with a FOX SC34 120mm fork. I rode with a 100mm and then the 120mm, but I think for me the sweet spot is just in-between at 110. I called around and some folks said you can't buy a 110 air spring for the SC fork. Bad info? True? Any help would be great. Thanks.
    I'll have one in the next day or so when mine is swapped out for 120. The TR comes stock with the 110 so it is out there.

  21. #821
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    Thanks for all the replies. My initial concern was that the "SC" version couldn't swap airshafts ..... based on what a dealer told me.

    AF2NR - are you swapping forks or the airshaft? Looking to sell? Thanks-

    DG

    PS- This bike rails colorado trails with the 120 fork!

  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by george7117 View Post
    Thanks for all the replies. My initial concern was that the "SC" version couldn't swap airshafts ..... based on what a dealer told me.

    AF2NR - are you swapping forks or the airshaft? Looking to sell? Thanks-

    DG

    PS- This bike rails colorado trails with the 120 fork!
    Swapping the airshaft only and I would likely be willing to sell the 110.

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by AF2NR View Post
    Swapping the airshaft only and I would likely be willing to sell the 110.
    While you guys are swapping out air shafts I would strongly suggest buying a luftkappe. On bikes like this, they are amazing.

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  24. #824
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    I have a Blur CC frame which I built up with a 120SC, Xo1 eagle, XTR brakes and carbon wheels which I built up a couple of months ago. The lockout is great for racing, but after coming off a Yeti SB100, I feel like the Blur would be better off with a 3 position shock and run it in trail mode (middle setting) all the time. Can anyone comment on how the Blur rides with the 3 position compared to the 2 position? I understand why SC specced the lockout on the Blur, especially as a race bike. It still has pretty supportive antisquat in full open mode, but there is a bit of wallow on the pedals less techy undulating terrain or on a typical BC logging road where it is beneficial to have some active suspension. It has pretty amazing climbing traction in Open, and the full lockout is great for fireroad, paved road etc. It is a PITA to send the shock away, but if it sounds like it is worth it, it is something I would really consider. Overall, very pleased with the Blur, it's descending manners surprised me, it is quite supple descending. Smoother than the Yeti, but doesn't handle the bigger hits quite as well.

  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    While you guys are swapping out air shafts I would strongly suggest buying a luftkappe. On bikes like this, they are amazing.

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    From my understanding they aren't compatible with the StepCast models?

  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by AF2NR View Post
    Swapping the airshaft only and I would likely be willing to sell the 110.
    PM me when you know, I'd be interested in the air shaft as long as its in good condition. Thanks.

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by slipstream View Post
    I feel like the Blur would be better off with a 3 position shock and run it in trail mode (middle setting) all the time. Can anyone comment on how the Blur rides with the 3 position compared to the 2 position?
    I never used the middle position until I did the rwc needle bearing swap and now the full open mode is so plush I feel like I need the trail mode for efficiency. I have been riding it a lot like that and its great but I still like to flip it open for long descents. I may try playing with the air pressure or compression settings to see if I can get it to a point where I just leave the shock open.

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by AF2NR View Post
    From my understanding they aren't compatible with the StepCast models?
    Shoot, you're probably right. I have a regular 34. The Stepcast isn't listed as incompatible on their site, but I've done some googling and can't find anyone running that combo.

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by rox View Post
    I never used the middle position until I did the rwc needle bearing swap and now the full open mode is so plush I feel like I need the trail mode for efficiency. I have been riding it a lot like that and its great but I still like to flip it open for long descents. I may try playing with the air pressure or compression settings to see if I can get it to a point where I just leave the shock open.
    Hey Rox did you use an extra spacer when you did the swap? In other words did you do the swap cuz of shock play, or simply to have better small bump compliance?
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  30. #830
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    I did it for better compliance. I had a small amount of lateral bushing play that I think is now gone but theres still a high frequency knock that I cant figure out

  31. #831
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    @rox, I had a knock as well. Not sure if its the same as what you are experiencing but i figured it out. The lock out cable has to be tight. Cant have any play at all in the cable pull. When i would press the switch to unlock the suspension I had a little play before the cable would beging to pull. The rear suspension was inbetween locked and open. Every time i hit a big bump i would get the wierdest sensation through the suspension. Took me a while to figure it out.
    Quote Originally Posted by rox View Post
    I did it for better compliance. I had a small amount of lateral bushing play that I think is now gone but theres still a high frequency knock that I cant figure out

  32. #832
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    I have listed my Large X01 Reserve Blur TR for sale here in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Thanks!

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    I picked up my Blur this spring and it is my first full suspension MTB after almost 12-15 years of riding a hard tail. As such, I don’t know if what I am experiencing is normal or not.

    When the suspension is locked out and I am pedaling, I get a very strong “bounce” motion out of the rear of the bike. I push down on a pedal, the back end of the bike goes up. It is as it the thing is trying to “buck” me off of it like I was trying to ride a bull. I stop pedaling and, of course, it smooths out. But once I start pedaling again, sitting or standing, I get that violent bounce again.

    Looking at the rear shock, it is not moving from what I can see.

    Now, to get the correct sag, I have the rear shock inflated about 20-25 psi higher than is recommended in the setup guide. If I don’t get that high, then I am blowing through all the rear travel on minor bumps while bottoming out on minor cross-country “bumps” and roots.

    I am 185# kitted up and rude mostly cross country, so no big hits, jumps, or anything too crazy.

    Is this motion that I am feeling normal? A function of the VPP design? Or is there something else that I am missing?

    Thanks for any insight you may have.

  34. #834
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    welcome to pedal kickback i think? up your air pressure a bit maybe.

  35. #835
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    I get a little kickback but not much. I recently tried putting a new chain on and the minor kickback that I got was enough to make me put the old chain back on
    ....guess I didn't change it out early enough. I actually run slightly less pressure than the starting psi and it rides great. Have you tried upping the rebound? How smooth is your pedal stroke? It would be nice if we could change high and low speed compression.

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  36. #836
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    If I run lower rear pressure, the kickback isn’t as bad, but I bottom out in the travel very quickly.

    If I up the rear pressure, I feel like I am riding a jackhammer.

    Rebound is turned up 3 clicks from the neutral setting.

    Pedaling is pretty smooth, even, and consistent. I prefer spinning to mashing.

    If this is a normal phenomena, then so be it. But if locking out the suspension is supposed to be similar to a hard tail, though it IS stiffer, it is intolerable due to the bouncing.

    Perhaps the shock needs service, tuning, ???? It’s the stock model that came on the Blur S build.

  37. #837
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    Could this have something to do with not being used to having a locked out fork? I noticed that when the whole bike was locked out, the rear felt prone to bouncing on anything. This combined with perhaps a little upper body movement could cause that feeling you have

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    Hello hello,

    So, a few months ago, I found a very good deal on a large blur that I bought, only to sell it a few weeks later without even riding it... Don't ask, I have bike buying issues (and the offer was too good to pass, I didn't actually loose anything on that deal).

    Anyway, it means I'm still in the market for an XC bike! The goal being to do some long distances events in 2020, and start training at the end of this enduro and park season.

    I'm trying to demo as much as I can, but XC demos aren't super common. Here's the list of bikes I m interested in:
    Intense Sniper/ Santa Cruz blur are on tp of my list
    New gen Orbea Oiz (hard if not impossible to find used)
    The new pivot does look pretty good, although might be a touch short
    The upcoming Norco Revolver.
    Scott Spark ?

    I've already read a few comparisons, but obviously, most of these bikes are new, or not even released yet, so not much content yet!

    As far as sizing, I'm 6', 75" wingspan, 34.5/35" inseam, and I've actually been recommended an XL against a Large for the blur, what are your thoughts? If that's the case, well, I'm glad I didn't keep the first blur. The goal also being to put a slightly shorter stem, and a 120mm SC (what about a Sid 120mm though? Anyone has compared)

    My knowledge of XC oriented components is very, very limited, so any input on the fork (Sid 120 VS 34 SC) and frame sizing would be greatly appreciated.

    Last., if anyone around Denver rides an XL with a short stem and a 120mm fork, I'll gladly buy him a 6-pack to let me hop on his bike!

    Cheers.

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewbn42 View Post
    Could this have something to do with not being used to having a locked out fork?
    No- with a lockout only for the rear shock, the bike should just feel like a hardtail when locked out.

    I run mine this way, and seem to remember that the first time or two I rode it (over a year ago now) experiencing a similar sensation to what he's describing. I think I fixed it by taking most of the pressure out of the shock, stopping to cycle it every 50 psi, then pumping back up in the same manner to equalize the positive and negative chambers. Having to run the pressure that high for correct sag is another indication the negative pressure might be too high.

    If that doesn't do it, call Fox and/or SC. What you are experiencing is not normal.
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by xavierp View Post
    Hello hello,

    So, a few months ago, I found a very good deal on a large blur that I bought, only to sell it a few weeks later without even riding it... Don't ask, I have bike buying issues (and the offer was too good to pass, I didn't actually loose anything on that deal).

    Anyway, it means I'm still in the market for an XC bike! The goal being to do some long distances events in 2020, and start training at the end of this enduro and park season.

    I'm trying to demo as much as I can, but XC demos aren't super common. Here's the list of bikes I m interested in:
    Intense Sniper/ Santa Cruz blur are on tp of my list
    New gen Orbea Oiz (hard if not impossible to find used)
    The new pivot does look pretty good, although might be a touch short
    The upcoming Norco Revolver.
    Scott Spark ?

    I've already read a few comparisons, but obviously, most of these bikes are new, or not even released yet, so not much content yet!

    As far as sizing, I'm 6', 75" wingspan, 34.5/35" inseam, and I've actually been recommended an XL against a Large for the blur, what are your thoughts? If that's the case, well, I'm glad I didn't keep the first blur. The goal also being to put a slightly shorter stem, and a 120mm SC (what about a Sid 120mm though? Anyone has compared)

    My knowledge of XC oriented components is very, very limited, so any input on the fork (Sid 120 VS 34 SC) and frame sizing would be greatly appreciated.

    Last., if anyone around Denver rides an XL with a short stem and a 120mm fork, I'll gladly buy him a 6-pack to let me hop on his bike!

    Cheers.
    You're on a SC Blur thread so what do you think your responses are going to be?

    I had a Tallboy V1 and V3, Had a Stumpjumper- personally I find DW link to be a sort of Goldilocks between Horst link and VPP. So that said if I hadn't just gotten a new Ripley I'd be looking at the new Pivot SL or Trek Top Fuel- I just have a hard time with Trek frame prices.
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  41. #841
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    xavierp I would go XL if I were you. I also have a long wingspan at 6'1" and I'm 5'10, running the seat back in the rails and a 70mm stem on a LARGE. go bigger. you can run a shorter stem if needed.

  42. #842
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    Quote Originally Posted by xavierp View Post
    Hello hello,

    So, a few months ago, I found a very good deal on a large blur that I bought, only to sell it a few weeks later without even riding it... Don't ask, I have bike buying issues (and the offer was too good to pass, I didn't actually loose anything on that deal).

    Anyway, it means I'm still in the market for an XC bike! The goal being to do some long distances events in 2020, and start training at the end of this enduro and park season.

    I'm trying to demo as much as I can, but XC demos aren't super common. Here's the list of bikes I m interested in:
    Intense Sniper/ Santa Cruz blur are on tp of my list
    New gen Orbea Oiz (hard if not impossible to find used)
    The new pivot does look pretty good, although might be a touch short
    The upcoming Norco Revolver.
    Scott Spark ?

    I've already read a few comparisons, but obviously, most of these bikes are new, or not even released yet, so not much content yet!

    As far as sizing, I'm 6', 75" wingspan, 34.5/35" inseam, and I've actually been recommended an XL against a Large for the blur, what are your thoughts? If that's the case, well, I'm glad I didn't keep the first blur. The goal also being to put a slightly shorter stem, and a 120mm SC (what about a Sid 120mm though? Anyone has compared)

    My knowledge of XC oriented components is very, very limited, so any input on the fork (Sid 120 VS 34 SC) and frame sizing would be greatly appreciated.

    Last., if anyone around Denver rides an XL with a short stem and a 120mm fork, I'll gladly buy him a 6-pack to let me hop on his bike!

    Cheers.
    I had a Blur. Maybe you bought mine???

    I now have the new Orbea. It feels small. I'm 5'9" on a Large with a 70mm stem. I could definitely go longer.

    The Oiz handles much better in both 100mm and 120mm forks. I have both.

    Is it faster? In the tight stuff, yes. Over a longer course not so sure.

    One thing about the Blur is it was smooth. With the Oiz I've taken off the Fox Factory DPS and moved on to the Manitou McLeod. It's much better now. The factory setup was brutal.
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  43. #843
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    Just built up a Blur cc. No suspension remotes. 21.85 lbs w pedals.

    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMay View Post
    Just built up a Blur cc. No suspension remotes. 21.85 lbs w pedals.

    so nice !!!

    where did you find these decals ?
    Thanks !

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    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!

    Thx! Invisiframe in the UK has the best SC frame decals, because they are slightly bigger than the letters on the frame, so much easier to apply. SC sells frame decals too but they do not do not fit...I know because I tried. You’d think they would be perfect but not even close.

    The other decals on the chainstay (and top tube near stem) I had made at doityourselflettering.com. Just matched the font as close as I could on a gold background. Cheap, like $2 a decal.
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  46. #846
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    xavierp I would go XL if I were you. I also have a long wingspan at 6'1" and I'm 5'10, running the seat back in the rails and a 70mm stem on a LARGE. go bigger. you can run a shorter stem if needed.
    Good input, when I "briefly" tried the one I had, it felt a bit short, that confirmed that I did well not keeping it (I suspected it, but again, good deal!!). It also isn't the first time I'm being told XL.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    I had a Blur. Maybe you bought mine???

    I now have the new Orbea. It feels small. I'm 5'9" on a Large with a 70mm stem. I could definitely go longer.

    The Oiz handles much better in both 100mm and 120mm forks. I have both.

    Is it faster? In the tight stuff, yes. Over a longer course not so sure.

    One thing about the Blur is it was smooth. With the Oiz I've taken off the Fox Factory DPS and moved on to the Manitou McLeod. It's much better now. The factory setup was brutal.
    haha, no. I got mine through a shop, which for some reason had a sale on same year's bike. Don't ask me why.
    I join you on the Orbea, I haven't ridden the oiz, but the Rallon I rode last year, for 3 days, was an XL and not "long" by any mean (the wheelbase was super long though, but it didn't feel like it)
    Good info on the handling, that is actually what I was expecting, and I also read the Oiz thread. By handling, do you mean it's more "agile" in the tight stuff? I have a trial and DH background, some I'm not concerned by that, I'll make the bike work. But if you mean like, handling on technical/rough downhill sections, well, I'd be more inclined to go with a little more stability (which would mean Blur?).

    Now, time to find a XL to actually ride it!

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    db inline air FS

    Got a good deal on a Rockshox rear shock for the blur and will be running it with a 130mm FOX fork, which puts the HA at 67.5. For this reason I no longer require the Cane creek db air IL shock, which has two offset bushings pressed in.
    https://www.offsetbushings.com/pages/how-they-work

    This db air IL shock with the offset bushings nets a 1 deg slacker head angle when installed. Would be perfect for someone wanting to slacken out their oem 100mm/110mm forked bike and or someone wanting to remove the eom shock with the lockout.

    offset bushings were about $45 shipped to the door. I'll let the setup go for $250 shipped. (original cane creek shock bushings also included) PM me if interested. thanks!
    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-20190406_112704.jpg

  48. #848
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    Has anyone tried the Fox 2018 2-Position Fork/Rear Shock Remote instead of the Rockshox twisting lock?

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...ght-lower-left

    My local shop had this Fox lockout remote on an XX1 build Blur and it functioned much better than the Rockshox gizmo. Curious if anyone has trail experience with the Fox remote on a Blur.

    The dropper lever would have to be an over the bar type, but I hate the Rockshox lockout remote so much that I am willing to live with an over the bar dropper lever.

    Thanks
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  49. #849
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrewMaster View Post
    Has anyone tried the Fox 2018 2-Position Fork/Rear Shock Remote instead of the Rockshox twisting lock?

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...ght-lower-left

    My local shop had this Fox lockout remote on an XX1 build Blur and it functioned much better than the Rockshox gizmo. Curious if anyone has trail experience with the Fox remote on a Blur.

    The dropper lever would have to be an over the bar type, but I hate the Rockshox lockout remote so much that I am willing to live with an over the bar dropper lever.

    Thanks
    This is the set-up I’m using after two failed attempts using the TwistLoc. They also swapped out the dropper for a Transfer so it’s all Fox now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-6f941a31-8b9b-4035-a040-d29b9a17eb42.jpg  

    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-08738232-48fd-4361-ab92-7fe3f70e3fc6.jpg  


  50. #850
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    Quote Originally Posted by AF2NR View Post
    This is the set-up I’m using after two failed attempts using the TwistLoc. They also swapped out the dropper for a Transfer so it’s all Fox now.
    Thanks for the pics. May I ask which fork and shock you have?
    "What can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence."

  51. #851
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrewMaster View Post
    Thanks for the pics. May I ask which fork and shock you have?
    No problem. It’s the stock TR setup, SC 34, changed the air shaft this week to 120, and DPS shock.

  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisbiker65 View Post
    Gipsy. Does that 2.6 rub during hard sprints or turns?
    Never

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMay View Post
    Just built up a Blur cc. No suspension remotes. 21.85 lbs w pedals.

    DAMN! Sweet looking bike!

    Great tip for the SC decals. I just put some of the factory decals on my hightower and they don't cover the original lettering!! Frustrating!

    I'm assuming to get it to 21.85 lbs most of that weight savings came from the wheels and dropper? Do you mind sharing your complete build?

  54. #854
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    Regarding the Santa Cruz decals that don't quite fit right, the shop I got my Blur from staggered them a bit so it kind of looks like 3d/block lettering. Its pretty sweet. My picture above isn't exactly the greatest.

  55. #855
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    Regarding the decals, I was able to get a custom set made that were just slightly oversized which made install much easier!
    Quote Originally Posted by HamfisT
    I understand that engineering has value in and of itself. But in the end, it's still just a pile of aluminum tubes.

  56. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by DPC View Post
    DAMN! Sweet looking bike!

    Great tip for the SC decals. I just put some of the factory decals on my hightower and they don't cover the original lettering!! Frustrating!

    I'm assuming to get it to 21.85 lbs most of that weight savings came from the wheels and dropper? Do you mind sharing your complete build?
    Sure thing, I started a "Post Your Blur Pics and Build" thread here, full build listed:https://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/p...d-1103692.html

    I didn't go full weight weenie but there are some decent weight savings from wheels, fork, etc.
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  57. #857
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    Anyone have a suggestion for tire upgrades? The Aspens are not the best choice for the Sierra trails. I need the fastest, lightest, best traction, lowest rolling resistance possible-of course- without adding a ton of weight. Have been running Nobby Nic/Ralph combo on my Ripley which has worked out well. For the Blur I want to keep it XC as much as possible bit still be able to get around Tahoe trails.

  58. #858
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocdog View Post
    Anyone have a suggestion for tire upgrades? The Aspens are not the best choice for the Sierra trails. I need the fastest, lightest, best traction, lowest rolling resistance possible-of course- without adding a ton of weight. Have been running Nobby Nic/Ralph combo on my Ripley which has worked out well. For the Blur I want to keep it XC as much as possible bit still be able to get around Tahoe trails.
    Ikon 2.35 f/2.20 or 2.35 r...FTW
    Ride more; post less...

  59. #859
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    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!

    Quote Originally Posted by rocdog View Post
    Anyone have a suggestion for tire upgrades? The Aspens are not the best choice for the Sierra trails. I need the fastest, lightest, best traction, lowest rolling resistance possible-of course- without adding a ton of weight. Have been running Nobby Nic/Ralph combo on my Ripley which has worked out well. For the Blur I want to keep it XC as much as possible bit still be able to get around Tahoe trails.
    Friends of mine who podiumed in their classes at Tahoe Trail 100 rode Ardent Race and Bontrager XR2s.

    Edit: I’m checking out the Rekon (not race) 2.25 for Tahoe 100. In my LBS it looks as burly as an Ikon 2.35 but like 70g lighter. And online reviews say it rolls faster than Ikon.
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  60. #860
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    Quote Originally Posted by bizango View Post
    Now that people have had their Blurs for a while, does anyone have any comments on how they have worked for racing? It seems like a lot of folks have built them up for fast, light tech, trail bikes, which is cool, but I am interested in race experiences and impressions. One of the things that appeals to be about the Blur is that it looks like it would have great cross over between those two uses with little compromise. A lot of bikes lean one way or the other a bit more.
    NBA Legend Reggie Miller is doing alright racing his Blur

    https://www.instagram.com/p/ByHdmeyl...on_share_sheet
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  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrewMaster View Post
    NBA Legend Reggie Miller is doing alright racing his Blur

    https://www.instagram.com/p/ByHdmeyl...on_share_sheet
    Reggie riding a Blur is absolutely AWESOME. Thanks for this.

    As per the question posed, it is biased towards XC race more than trail. Factory shock tune alone indicates this to be the case.

  62. #862
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    Has anyone put any on-bike storage on their Blur? I'm curious to see what solutions are out there since I'm thinking of using the under side bottle cage bolts to attach some kind of storage for tools, tube, etc. I'd also consider a small frame bag inside the front triangle if it doesn't impede the water bottle cage.

    Show us what you've got! Thanks.
    "What can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence."

  63. #863
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    Thinking of buying a Blur-frame to build my bike because it's my 3rd new BB on my Rocky Mountain Element and starting to dislike this PressFit bs, anyone here coming from an Element and now riding the Blur?? Why did you guys change and how is the difference?? Threaded BB must be so much better, no???

  64. #864
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    Quote Originally Posted by L3onardo View Post
    Thinking of buying a Blur-frame to build my bike because it's my 3rd new BB on my Rocky Mountain Element and starting to dislike this PressFit bs, anyone here coming from an Element and now riding the Blur?? Why did you guys change and how is the difference?? Threaded BB must be so much better, no???
    While the blur is great, if the press-fit is your only complaint I would try a praxis.

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    or BBInfinite. Will spin better than Praxis and wont creak.

  66. #866
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    I use grey RTV on my pressfit BBs with good success.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  67. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
    or BBInfinite. Will spin better than Praxis and wont creak.
    I built my Blur with a BBInfinite ceramic. Hopefully lasts a long time.

  68. #868
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    Curious if anyone with a L or XL frame has tried to mount 2 bottles inside the front triangle using a Wolf Tooth B-Rad? If so, how is it working? Any pictures?

  69. #869
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    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!

    What is the general opinion of how the orange SC 34 120 fork looks on the sunset (red) Blur? Dope? Tacky?

  70. #870
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    Here's my new Blur Xo1 build. after the first ride the Levels have to go swapping them out for a set of Guides off my enduro.


  71. #871
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    Yeah those Levels are about as useful as 80s cantilever rim brakes. I built mine with Guides as well.

  72. #872
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    I totally agree Bulldozer. Any recommendations on a beefier front tire to try out?

  73. #873
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyIvan View Post
    I totally agree Bulldozer. Any recommendations on a beefier front tire to try out?
    The Forekaster 2.35 is the perfect blend of grip and rolling resistance for one of these modern hopped-up XC bikes.

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  74. #874
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    Agree, I loved the Forekaster on the front of my Blur Tr

  75. #875
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    Sizing Question:

    Blur owners..I'm looking at building up a Blur to be more of a light duty trail bike...120 fork, wider bars, short(er) stem, etc. I'm 6 feet tall, 33" inseam, long arms. Any opinions on frame size. If I want to run a shorter stem (~50-60mm) and taller fork, will the Large start to feel to cramped???

    Thanks!

  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Sizing Question:

    Blur owners..I'm looking at building up a Blur to be more of a light duty trail bike...120 fork, wider bars, short(er) stem, etc. I'm 6 feet tall, 33" inseam, long arms. Any opinions on frame size. If I want to run a shorter stem (~50-60mm) and taller fork, will the Large start to feel to cramped???

    Thanks!
    I think so. I am 5 10 and the large fits me perfectly. I would prob go XL at 6.


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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    I think so. I am 5 10 and the large fits me perfectly. I would prob go XL at 6.
    I'm 5'10" too and I did order an L-frame, but I saw a guy (also 5'10")on youtube riding an M-frame, and it didn't seem too small to him either, so I started doubting my choice?

    Santa Cruz's "frame sizing" does have some overlap between the frames and with 5'10" I'm kinda in-between M and L.

    All you 5'10" are all on Large or not?

  78. #878
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    Anyone on a small? If so, how tall are you? My wife is 5'2" and wanting a Blur. No chance to demo one... Geo numbers seem big.

  79. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by L3onardo View Post
    I'm 5'10" too and I did order an L-frame, but I saw a guy (also 5'10")on youtube riding an M-frame, and it didn't seem too small to him either, so I started doubting my choice?

    Santa Cruz's "frame sizing" does have some overlap between the frames and with 5'10" I'm kinda in-between M and L.

    All you 5'10" are all on Large or not?
    I think a medium would be too small for me. I also use a 50mm stem and 760mm bars. Ride a large HT2 also.

  80. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by jburm View Post
    Anyone on a small? If so, how tall are you? My wife is 5'2" and wanting a Blur. No chance to demo one... Geo numbers seem big.
    Hi, my wife is 5’4” and currently on an S Blur. The bike fits perfectly. She is progressing a lot with the bike.

  81. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDO View Post
    Hi, my wife is 5’4” and currently on an S Blur. The bike fits perfectly. She is progressing a lot with the bike.
    My wife is also 5'2 and she is riding and racing and winning on a small. She had a pro fit done and the geo is perfect. She came off a 275 Pivot and the 29 blur is a better fit.

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by L3onardo View Post
    I'm 5'10" too and I did order an L-frame, but I saw a guy (also 5'10")on youtube riding an M-frame, and it didn't seem too small to him either, so I started doubting my choice?

    Santa Cruz's "frame sizing" does have some overlap between the frames and with 5'10" I'm kinda in-between M and L.

    All you 5'10" are all on Large or not?
    I’m 5’10” and so is my son in law who races, both on Mediums, 70mm stem. Doesn’t feel small to either of us.
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  83. #883
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    I’m so sry, wanted to converse “meters” into “ft and inches” and did the wrong calculation.
    So for the record, I’m 1m79cm tall and I Ordered an L-frame!
    Any Blur owners who are my height also ride an L-frame??

  84. #884
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    What does the rear suspension of the Blur feel like compared to a trail full suspension bike? I've never had an XC bike, and I want to get one for racing. Currently have a basic aluminum hardtail (Specialized Rockhopper weighing 29 pounds) and an aluminum 2018 Stumpjumper weighing 31 pounds).

    The rear suspension of the Stumpjumper really soaks up the bumps. I've read that the rear of a full suspension XC bike feels like a softened hardtail, but I was hoping to get some more feedback on that. For example, what does the rear of the Blur feel like going over a tree root I(single hard hit), or if you're riding over a gravel road, where the suspension is having to soak up a lot of small bumps.

  85. #885
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    It's really relative to personal preference. I run mine at 15-20% sag because i prefer a stiffer feel. It still soaks up the chatter well while maintaining efficiency. I wouldnt say it feels like a softened hardtail. The only time the Blurs shorter travel is really noticeable is when getting air born.

  86. #886
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    XTR Blur

    Here is mine. Just got it and had my first ride yesterday. It was the X01 build w/ the Reserve 25 wheels but sold the SRAM stuff and replaced it with the Shimano XTR 9100. Kept the Aspen on the rear and put a Forcaster up front (too many fallen leaves on the trails in New England).

    My scale isn't very accurate but w/ pedals and bottle cage came in at 23lbs 7 ounces.

    That xtr shifting is telepathic! Just amazing. Coming from a hardtail, the bike felt like I was cheating! Need more rides on it, but that one ride was pretty freaking sweet!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-img_20191111_180519_621.jpg  


  87. #887
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    Nice! Belongs in the Blur Build and Picture Thread too!
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellullabob View Post
    Here is mine. Just got it and had my first ride yesterday. It was the X01 build w/ the Reserve 25 wheels but sold the SRAM stuff and replaced it with the Shimano XTR 9100. Kept the Aspen on the rear and put a Forcaster up front (too many fallen leaves on the trails in New England).

    My scale isn't very accurate but w/ pedals and bottle cage came in at 23lbs 7 ounces.

    That xtr shifting is telepathic! Just amazing. Coming from a hardtail, the bike felt like I was cheating! Need more rides on it, but that one ride was pretty freaking sweet!
    Awesome ! !
    Is that an L-frame you got there?

  89. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMay View Post
    Nice! Belongs in the Blur Build and Picture Thread too!
    I'll post it there too.

    Quote Originally Posted by L3onardo View Post
    Awesome ! !
    Is that an L-frame you got there?
    It's a medium frame.

  90. #890
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    Just built up another large Blur TR. Build spec is as follows:

    -Large Blur CC Frame w/lockout
    -Fox 34 Stepcast Factory 120mm fork (3 pos)
    -XTR M9100 Drivetrain
    -XTR M9100 Brakeset, KCNC Razor 6-bolt Rotors (180/160)
    -Industry Nine 240C Ultralite 24h wheelset w/Hydra hubs
    -2.25" Rekon 3C/EXO/TR front, 2.25" Rekon Race EXO/TR rear w/Orange Seal
    -KS Lev Ci 150mm dropper
    -SQLab 611 Carbon (Non-Active) saddle
    -Thomson Trail Carbon 750mm handlebar, ESI Chunky grips
    -Wren 60mm stem

    Weight is 22lbs 9oz without pedals, 23lbs 4oz with XTR M9000 pedals. Really happy with how it turned out...I'll post pics later today.

  91. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt.s67 View Post
    Just built up another large Blur TR. Build spec is as follows:

    -Large Blur CC Frame w/lockout
    -Fox 34 Stepcast Factory 120mm fork (3 pos)
    -XTR M9100 Drivetrain
    -XTR M9100 Brakeset, KCNC Razor 6-bolt Rotors (180/160)
    -Industry Nine 240C Ultralite 24h wheelset w/Hydra hubs
    -2.25" Rekon 3C/EXO/TR front, 2.25" Rekon Race EXO/TR rear w/Orange Seal
    -KS Lev Ci 150mm dropper
    -SQLab 611 Carbon (Non-Active) saddle
    -Thomson Trail Carbon 750mm handlebar, ESI Chunky grips
    -Wren 60mm stem

    Weight is 22lbs 9oz without pedals, 23lbs 4oz with XTR M9000 pedals. Really happy with how it turned out...I'll post pics later today.
    Very nice build! For sure post some pics.

  92. #892
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    Fox DPS 3-way lever swap

    Switched out the remote lockout on Fox DPS Performance Elite shock through Fox for 3-way lever. Check out this listing:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/283670496098

    Works great to select best option for conditions and I really like how it cleans up cables.




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  93. #893
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    Hi, I’m 6ft 7/16, 34.5in inseam. Long legs, shorter torso and arms. Shall I pick L or XL? I need saddle at 33in fom BB.
    I tried XL yesterday and was surprised that it was quite OK. The seller does not have L to try.

  94. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpcyclist View Post
    Hi, I’m 6ft 7/16, 34.5in inseam. Long legs, shorter torso and arms. Shall I pick L or XL? I need saddle at 33in fom BB.
    I tried XL yesterday and was surprised that it was quite OK. The seller does not have L to try.
    I'm a tad taller at 6'1" and a 36" inseam, I opted for the XL short stem, wide bars. All legs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-squirelly-dan.jpg  


  95. #895
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    Trying to figure out sizing for a 2019 Blur. I'm 5'6" with short arms, short legs, but long-ish torso for my height. I ride 50-52cm road bikes.

    The size chart on SC's site puts me at a medium, but towards the very bottom end of the spectrum. Should I look into a small instead or would I be too cramped?

  96. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Trying to figure out sizing for a 2019 Blur. I'm 5'6" with short arms, short legs, but long-ish torso for my height. I ride 50-52cm road bikes.

    The size chart on SC's site puts me at a medium, but towards the very bottom end of the spectrum. Should I look into a small instead or would I be too cramped?
    I am also a ‘smallish’ 5’6” and I also ride a size 52 road bike. I went with a size small Blur and the 100mm fork. It was an adjustment going to a smaller frame but I do like it. I wouldn’t call it ‘cramped’ but sometimes I get a feeling that I’m over the front wheel on steep and technical descents. That said, I’ve never gone OTB or even come off the bike in a crash. It’s very stable and with practice it’s not really a big deal. If I could do it over again I might have optioned for the 110mm fork as the slightly slacker head angle might help with this issue. Still though, it’s an awesome bike with the 100mm fork and weighs less. I do a lot of XC racing so wanted to optimize the bike for that purpose. FWIW, I also ride a size medium Highball and I would not recommend a small Highball for our height as I think the OTB feeling would be even worse.

  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by hour9 View Post
    I am also a ‘smallish’ 5’6” and I also ride a size 52 road bike. I went with a size small Blur and the 100mm fork. It was an adjustment going to a smaller frame but I do like it. I wouldn’t call it ‘cramped’ but sometimes I get a feeling that I’m over the front wheel on steep and technical descents. That said, I’ve never gone OTB or even come off the bike in a crash. It’s very stable and with practice it’s not really a big deal. If I could do it over again I might have optioned for the 110mm fork as the slightly slacker head angle might help with this issue. Still though, it’s an awesome bike with the 100mm fork and weighs less. I do a lot of XC racing so wanted to optimize the bike for that purpose. FWIW, I also ride a size medium Highball and I would not recommend a small Highball for our height as I think the OTB feeling would be even worse.
    Thanks for the input. This definitely helps

  98. #898
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    Is there anobody with a 2020 model? I would like to buy one but I haven´t seen it yet.

  99. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sahagún View Post
    Is there anobody with a 2020 model? I would like to buy one but I haven´t seen it yet.
    My wifes was delivered this week and is currently being built. She opted for the gloss carbon/emerald. It's very sharp in person. The robins egg blue model is actually brighter than the photos on SC website. There's some better images that can be viewed in google photos.

  100. #900
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    Racing ? Definitely not for fast and easy XC tracks raced by Elite racers. Suspension is fairly active and still efficient but is not match for flex chain stays or DW split pivot for racing applications . These suspensions are lighter, simpler and usually more up to the task. They maybe not so pleasant and smooth like blur but more effective. I can see Blur more for XC marathons or some epic rides like South African Absa. I have been riding Blur 100 mm.

  101. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by nick d View Post
    To "delete" the lockout all I did was install a very short cable (no housing) with the cable end sitting where the housing would sit on the end of the shock body. Then turn the lockout knob on the shock to the open position, thread the cable around it like normal and tighten the cable pinch screw. I've come to the conclusion the lockout is not needed and will eventually get a shock without one and enjoy useful ride modes, but this will do for now.
    this is an awesome idea if it works. is it still holding up for you?

  102. #902
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    Does anyone know what's the max tire clearance for the 32 and 34 sc fork. I'm looking to run the 29x2.6 rekon up front and 2.4 out back as a trail bike.

  103. #903
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    I have the 2.6" Rekon on the front of My Blur in a 34 SC fork-very generous amount of clearance.

  104. #904
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    I'm moving on from my Blur. Loved the bike but decided to consolidate the long travel and short travel bikes into one mid-travel bike.

    Just before selling I ran the DB Inline rear shock briefly. Man it really added to the capability of the bike on longer descents and techy climbing. I really like how the climb switch ramps up low speed compression AND low speed rebound. Really provides a great platform and keeps the rear wheel glued to the ground. New owner wanted the stock fox so I have an almost new DB Inline that won't fit my new bike. PM me if anyone wants this shock or wants any feedback on the performance difference between the stock float!

  105. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    I really like how the climb switch ramps up low speed compression AND low speed rebound. Really provides a great platform and keeps the rear wheel glued to the ground.
    Did you use the remote lever, and if so did it play nicely with a dropper lever (if you have one)? And how much does it firm up the shock on a scale of 1-10, if the stock lockout is a 10?
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  106. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Did you use the remote lever, and if so did it play nicely with a dropper lever (if you have one)? And how much does it firm up the shock on a scale of 1-10, if the stock lockout is a 10?
    It's a bit of a unique switch in that it's not locked/unlocked, it's infinitely adjustable compression. It's not quite as firm of a lockout at the fox. Like maybe the fox is a 9/10 in stiffness and the IL is like a 6-7/10. The cool thing about it is that it slows down your low speed rebound so you keep traction better on techy climbs.

  107. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Did you use the remote lever, and if so did it play nicely with a dropper lever (if you have one)? And how much does it firm up the shock on a scale of 1-10, if the stock lockout is a 10?




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  108. #908
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    Is that a Fox dropper lever? I've got a KS thumb lever and it's much smaller, which is nice until you go to use it and your thumb slides off and hits the lockout lever.

    The Cane Creek remote lockout lever ("OPT") is a different style altogether from the Fox. Goes on top of the handlebar and has "hooks" on either end, presumably to keep your thumb from sliding off. Basically it seems like it was designed with a dropper lever in mind, whereas the Fox lockout lever clearly wasn't.

    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-opt_edit_web_wide.jpg
    ''It seems like a bit of a trend, everyone trying to make things longer over the last couple of years" Sam Hill

  109. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Is that a Fox dropper lever? I've got a KS thumb lever and it's much smaller, which is nice until you go to use it and your thumb slides off and hits the lockout lever.

    The Cane Creek remote lockout lever ("OPT") is a different style altogether from the Fox. Goes on top of the handlebar and has "hooks" on either end, presumably to keep your thumb from sliding off. Basically it seems like it was designed with a dropper lever in mind, whereas the Fox lockout lever clearly wasn't.
    I believe that "lever" relies on friction to hold it in lockout position and doesn't play well with other brand shocks. Some tried on the Manitou Mcleod and it didn't play nice.

  110. #910
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Did you use the remote lever, and if so did it play nicely with a dropper lever (if you have one)? And how much does it firm up the shock on a scale of 1-10, if the stock lockout is a 10?
    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-img_3296.jpg


    Here's one solution around the dropper remote. Super slick set up as you can toggle the shock unlock and dropper simultaneously. Basically just had to grab a slightly longer bolt from the spares bin to mount the Wolftooth lever in place of the axle screw on the Fox Remote.

  111. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerpss View Post
    I believe that "lever" relies on friction to hold it in lockout position and doesn't play well with other brand shocks.
    I figured as much. The fact that the DBIL has a remote designed around a dropper is part of the reason I'm planning to try it, along with it ostensibly being a better shock.

  112. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyvagen View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's one solution around the dropper remote. Super slick set up as you can toggle the shock unlock and dropper simultaneously. Basically just had to grab a slightly longer bolt from the spares bin to mount the Wolftooth lever in place of the axle screw on the Fox Remote.
    That's pretty clever. It's rare I'd need to unlock the shock/drop the saddle simultaneously, but maybe less chance of accidentally locking the shock when activating the dropper that way, since the "unlock" lever would be closest to the dropper lever (and for me would typically be depressed already when using the dropper).

    Not sure my thumb is coordinated enough to find the right one 100% of the time though, especially in the heat of a race.

  113. #913
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles e View Post
    Is that a Fox dropper lever? I've got a KS thumb lever and it's much smaller, which is nice until you go to use it and your thumb slides off and hits the lockout lever.

    The Cane Creek remote lockout lever ("OPT") is a different style altogether from the Fox. Goes on top of the handlebar and has "hooks" on either end, presumably to keep your thumb from sliding off. Basically it seems like it was designed with a dropper lever in mind, whereas the Fox lockout lever clearly wasn't.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yes, it’s just the standard Fox transfer lever. Used to have LEV Ci dropper but the seat clamp for their posts is just too finicky as they bend causing creaking.

    Hard to see from the pic but there is plenty of room under the dropper to operate the lockout. PS: using Fox SC 34 120 on this bike and it really rips! So much better than the SC 32 100 that came with it.


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  114. #914
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    Quote Originally Posted by c-wal View Post
    My XL CC black frame with seat collar is 2300g.

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    My 2019 TB3 XL Frame weight with axle, shock, grommets, seatpost collar is 2600g
    Not much difference (~2/3 lb.) seeing as mine has the extra mass of the paint. Reach is a little shorter than the XL Blur.

  115. #915
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    Bringing up the Fox DPS lower shock mount issue, again. Mine developed play within just a few rides after purchase. Same thing previously happened with my 5010 V1. The RWC needle bearing kit fixed that bike, and it still rides flawlessly, so I bought a kit for my Blur. The problem seemed to be solved immediately after installation, but the lower mount has again developed play after just a few rides. SC has been worthless in this situation, b/c they say it is a Fox problem, even though they continued to spec this shock on their bikes knowing there were issues. They basically told me not to worry about it and it won't affect the performance of the suspension, which is complete BS. It's so evident, and ruins the feel of the bike. I contacted Fox and they are sending new bushing hardware that supposedly will fit better than the original, but I'm not holding my breath. Has anyone else experienced this and what was the solution?

  116. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyvagen View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's one solution around the dropper remote. Super slick set up as you can toggle the shock unlock and dropper simultaneously. Basically just had to grab a slightly longer bolt from the spares bin to mount the Wolftooth lever in place of the axle screw on the Fox Remote.
    How did you get the bolt tight enough to stop rotation of the wolftooth lever, but loose enough to allow operation of the lockout?

    When I tighten up the bolt to remove slop on the wolftooth (so the trigger can depress without rotating while assembly), I can't operate the lockout.

  117. #917
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-wolfcomponents-dropper-lever.jpg

    Wolf's new ReMote BarCentric looks promising!

  118. #918
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    I picked-up a blur tr and pretty much like the bike after 2 rides. I have two concerns. The RS dropper post is slow to rise. It drags about half way up. More annoying is the lock out. I can be riding down the trail and feel the lock-out turn in my hand when I clearly didn't hit the release. It is almost like some of the bumps release the lock out. I am a bit shocked SC specified this dropper post and lock out. I am not sure what the solution will be. I do like the idea of having a lock-out for the suspension. Particularly, coming from a single speed hardtail which has a lock out on the front fork.

  119. #919
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    Try loosening the seat post clamp a tad to free up the return.


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  120. #920
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    ox DPS 3-way lever swap

    Switched out the remote lockout on Fox DPS Performance Elite shock through Fox for 3-way lever. Check out this listing:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/283670496098

    Works great to select best option for conditions and I really like how it cleans up cables.


    No need for 3 way switch. 2 way mode have same range of adjustment just harder to setup . Just throw away handlebar switch and you set. Pumped up shock 30lb above my weight. Ride uphill almost like a hard tail with very little compromise on descents. Even with stiffer shock still the most capable cross-country bike.
    Wish the geo was a bit different. Low, long and slack, not so great for a guy with longer legs and shorter torso. At 5'.9" stack is too small and TT could be slightly shorter, for M.

  121. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Try loosening the seat post clamp a tad to free up the return.


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    It is only 5 Nm right now. That is a pretty standard spec.

  122. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcr1 View Post
    It is only 5 Nm right now. That is a pretty standard spec.
    I believe that was the spec on my Blur as well but I never could tighten it to that without it having issues returning fully. I ended up backing off that number a bit and it resolved my issues.
    So many trails, so little time.

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  123. #923
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    Hey guys, looking to swap the Fox DPS for a RS Deluxe, does anyone know what kind of Tune I'd need for the damper? -> https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-dlx-ultr-b2

  124. #924
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    And while we're at it: Can someone describe the behavior of the Fox shock when in locked mode? To me, it's more a "firm" mode than a "locked", since the shock moves somewhat. I know it has to, but it seems to me there's more movement than there should be...

  125. #925
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    I had a deluxe on my last bike. It was okay at best. I wouldn't swap the Fox for it. Plus, the blur has a short travel with a quick ramp up. Will the deluxe have the same ramp-up curve?

  126. #926
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    when its locked, it barely moves. Its not a firm mode. Even if oyu hit a bump it still doesnt move.
    Quote Originally Posted by MindPatterns View Post
    And while we're at it: Can someone describe the behavior of the Fox shock when in locked mode? To me, it's more a "firm" mode than a "locked", since the shock moves somewhat. I know it has to, but it seems to me there's more movement than there should be...

  127. #927
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    Not too bad - 25 lbs even with 150 dropper, pedals, and 120 fork.






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  128. #928
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    I used a zip tie just after the barrel adjusters to keep the remote stable. Haven’t had a problem since. Just kept the bolt loose enough that both remotes work. Using this same setup with a Scott Twinlock on my Genius and its works swell.

  129. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex-henson View Post
    How did you get the bolt tight enough to stop rotation of the wolftooth lever, but loose enough to allow operation of the lockout?

    When I tighten up the bolt to remove slop on the wolftooth (so the trigger can depress without rotating while assembly), I can't operate the lockout.
    I used a zip tie just after the barrel adjusters to keep the remote stable. Haven’t had a problem since. Just kept the bolt loose enough that both remotes work. Using this same setup with a Scott Twinlock on my Genius and its works swell.

  130. #930
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    Crashed in race and broke lockout this weekend so full rigid the rest of the time. Needed to send off suspension to Fox anyway for service so the lockout on the fork and shock are going to get converted to lever style. I've had so many problems with the lockout, glad to be getting rid of it. Going to RWC needle bearing upgrade for the rear as well!

    Anyone get Fox to do anything different with their shock/fork on service, valving, etc?
    2018 Santa Cruz Blur X01 Reserve
    2015 Santa Cruz Tallboy 2 C
    2016 Look 695 Aerolite

  131. #931
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    Has anyone tried the cane creek inline rear shock? What's the verdict

    Looking to remove the lockout so might as well buy the inline if it's worth it.

  132. #932
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    See post #904 above
    Never underestimate an old man with a mountain bike.

  133. #933
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    Looking at purchasing a new Blur this year. Any rumors if SC will release a new model in 2020? I am more than willing to hold off if something new will pop up.

  134. #934
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    I'm curious about this as well. I have a current generation Blur (not trail version) I think the bike is great as is but curious how they will change it. If I could change anything I would raise the bottom bracket and slightly slacken the head angle.

  135. #935
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    Is anyone running a new M9100 chainset on their Blur? Need to see what the chainstay clearance is like as I'll want to run a power meter too. Not sure whether I'll need to get an M9120 or an M9100...

  136. #936
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    what do you mean?

  137. #937
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    Will an M9100 chainset fit on a Blur or do I need an M9120? They've got different Q factors so there will be less clearance if any on the M9100 at the chainstays.

  138. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleveruplink View Post
    Will an M9100 chainset fit on a Blur or do I need an M9120? They've got different Q factors so there will be less clearance if any on the M9100 at the chainstays.
    I have a set waiting to go on once the chainring arrives. I'm running one of the 156 q Srams now. holding the left XTR crank up against the Sram bb it looks to have a good bit of clearance (15mm I'd guess). I think you would be okay for most powermeters. I'll snap a picture when I install it.

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  139. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    I have a set waiting to go on once the chainring arrives. I'm running one of the 156 q Srams now. holding the left XTR crank up against the Sram bb it looks to have a good bit of clearance (15mm I'd guess). I think you would be okay for most powermeters. I'll snap a picture when I install it.

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    Awesome, thanks :-)

  140. #940
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    I'm running XT 8100 1x on mine with a Wolf Tooth ring if this helps there is about 11mm space between the crank arm and Chainstay measured including the rubber chainstay protector.

  141. #941
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    Well after going through 2 Sram grip shift lock outs in about 8-10 total rides, I am going to bite the bullet and send the fork and shock to Fox. I am going to replace the remote with levers. I am rather disappointed at having to spend money on a new bike. Sram needs to improve the product or Santa Cruz needs to stop specifying it.

  142. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    Has anyone tried the cane creek inline rear shock? What's the verdict

    Looking to remove the lockout so might as well buy the inline if it's worth it.
    Came here looking for an answer to this too. Did you end up going with the CCIL? My lockout is pointless. I'm not racing and I'm coming from(really with, it hasn't left) an enduro 160mm bike so the thing already feels incredibly fast.

    Did just buy a SC 34 though so excited

  143. #943
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pistol2Ne View Post
    Came here looking for an answer to this too. Did you end up going with the CCIL? My lockout is pointless. I'm not racing and I'm coming from(really with, it hasn't left) an enduro 160mm bike so the thing already feels incredibly fast.

    Did just buy a SC 34 though so excited
    The Cane Creek is fantastic. It's basically a blank slate. You can completely dial in HSC LSC HSR LSR. The climb switch is great because it provides additional rebound damping in addition to LSC. It may take you forever to dial-in because there are so many different options. User serviceability is the drawback.

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  144. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    The Cane Creek is fantastic. It's basically a blank slate. You can completely dial in HSC LSC HSR LSR. The climb switch is great because it provides additional rebound damping in addition to LSC. It may take you forever to dial-in because there are so many different options. User serviceability is the drawback.

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    Cane creek it is. Thanks!

  145. #945
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    Has anyone tried putting a 130mm fork on their Blur yet?

  146. #946
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJ415 View Post
    Has anyone tried putting a 130mm fork on their Blur yet?
    When I bought my Ribbon SL, it came as a 130. I figured I'd ride it that way until the first oil change and then lower it. After a couple rides, I made the switch. The handling felt vague--there wasn't enough weight on the front wheel for my taste. That seems to be a very common grape of mine on modern long tt bikes. Maybe you'd have a different take.
    Maybe a really low offset fork would allow you to keep enough weight on the front end. I'd love to try the 41 mm offset, but that's not a cheap experiment. So, I'll stick with my 46 mm offset and the fork set at 115 which I found to be the sweet spot. For most forks the option is either a 110 or 120, in which case I prefer the 110.

    Off topic but partially related, Nino runs 110 up front and 120 rear on his Scott. Whether that's to keep the stack height down or to keep more weight on the front wheel I don't know. But it's telling that over forking might not be the way to go on short travel bikes. Obviously most of us are not world-class riders like he is, and that's a sample size of one, so don't over analyze. But it's an interesting data point nonetheless.

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  147. #947
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    Thanks for that feedback.

    I have had my Blur R for about a year and a half. I put a 150mm dropper post on it right away. Three months in, I swapped out the air spring in the 32 Rhythm, bumping it up from 100mm to 120mm. I also swapped out the 70mm stem for a 50mm, put a 180mm brake rotor on the front, swapped out the Aspen tires for a 2.25 Recon in the back and a 2.3 Minion DHF in the front.

    This for sure added some weight to the bike but it was a huge improvement. I only noticed the impact of the 120mm fork on steeper climbs, 20%-35% inclines, but never noticed it again after one or two rides.

    Keep in mind, I don't race. I just like a compact bike that climbs really well considering that I will inevitably be on a fire trail with some steep 25%-35% sections on any given ride.

    The 23 just has to much flex in it. The thing chatters/flexes backward about 3/4 an inch when you brake on pavement. I like the idea of a step cast 34, but you are locked in with a max travel of 120mm. A 34 Performance Elite weighs about .4 lbs more and has more range.

    My thought with 130mm is that this could smooth out the ride a bit, compensating for the damage that the cows and horses do the fire roads and trails during California winters. The only concern I have with 130mm in front is what it will do to the seat tube angle.

  148. #948
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    [QUOTE=JJ415;14681403]
    ...and a 2.3 Minion DHF in the front.

    Since you are running a meaty front tire you might be fine. Most of us are running scrawny XC tires on a blur. They require weight to give grip since they lack tread. The DHF is a more forgiving.
    If you go with a regular 34, You can also throw a Luftkappe in, which is a massive upgrade imo.

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  149. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    When I bought my Ribbon SL, it came as a 130. I figured I'd ride it that way until the first oil change and then lower it. After a couple rides, I made the switch. The handling felt vague--there wasn't enough weight on the front wheel for my taste. That seems to be a very common grape of mine on modern long tt bikes. Maybe you'd have a different take.
    Maybe a really low offset fork would allow you to keep enough weight on the front end. I'd love to try the 41 mm offset, but that's not a cheap experiment. So, I'll stick with my 46 mm offset and the fork set at 115 which I found to be the sweet spot. For most forks the option is either a 110 or 120, in which case I prefer the 110.

    Off topic but partially related, Nino runs 110 up front and 120 rear on his Scott. Whether that's to keep the stack height down or to keep more weight on the front wheel I don't know. But it's telling that over forking might not be the way to go on short travel bikes. Obviously most of us are not world-class riders like he is, and that's a sample size of one, so don't over analyze. But it's an interesting data point nonetheless.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    He could have ran 110 because that was the longest travel he could get with the carbon crown SID fork. If the carbon crown had been available in 120mm he may have used it

  150. #950
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleveruplink View Post
    Will an M9100 chainset fit on a Blur or do I need an M9120? They've got different Q factors so there will be less clearance if any on the M9100 at the chainstays.
    Yes, for XTR M9100, I'm running this atm and perfect clearance. Also, I'm running "stages"-powermeter, and also perfect clearance there

  151. #951
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    Stem Length question for all you guys: Have you swapped out your stems for something shorter? If so, what length and how are you liking it? I have the standard Syntace (70mm I think) stem.

    I have a '20 X01 Blur (non TR) in size large and want to put a 40-50mm stem on it to shorten the reach a bit. It came with the SC carbon flat bars which I plan to keep stock.

    I was hoping someone could tell me if the handling might be too twitchy if I go down to a 40-50mm stem. My Tallboy v3 had a 50mm and it handled well. Thanks in Advance for any input!

  152. #952
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    2018 Santa Cruz Blur....IS HERE!-8903e681-53cc-40c4-9a76-6d6cc2c47923.jpgClick image for larger version. 

Name:	8903E681-53CC-40C4-9A76-6D6CC2C47923.jpg 
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ID:	1331305I was on a 50mm stem, but for the summer I thought I’d give a 35mm a go. I’ve got 120mm forks on and I’m using the bike as a bit more of a fun, light trail bike than an out and out XC bike.
    I’m loving the 35mm, it’s making me play around on trail a bit more. Not finding it twitchy at all, but done a couple of 100k rides in the last couple of weeks and could’ve used at least 20mm more stem. Probably wouldn’t have had as much fun though.

  153. #953
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    it wont be twitchy as far as steering but the blur doesnt have that long of a reach so its going to be short and weird climbing unless you sized up on the frame.

  154. #954
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    I'm building up a new frameset with XT 12sp and need to know the chainline to order the correct cranks. Does anyone know if it's 52mm or 55mm?

  155. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by brumos View Post
    I'm building up a new frameset with XT 12sp and need to know the chainline to order the correct cranks. Does anyone know if it's 52mm or 55mm?
    52mm Chainline !

  156. #956
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onetrack View Post
    52mm Chainline !
    Awesome, thank you.

  157. #957
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    What size dropper are you guys running on a large frame?

    I'm 5'9" and deciding between 150mm or 180mm OneUp dropper. The 180 can be shimmed down to 160mm or 170mm.

  158. #958
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    Has anyone tried to install a rear fender to keep dirt, etc from gathering on the rear lower pivot? I only had about 8-10 rides on my bike before it started creaking from dirt and sand in the lower pivot points. The shop clean it up and re-lube it, but seems like it could be problematic. They have a little plastic piece on the tallboy to help shed dirt, etc, but nothing on the Blur.

  159. #959
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    On my TallBoy 2 I just put a piece of inner tube, zip tied to the seat tube and the rear triangle to keep dirt away from this area.
    Works nicely.

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