VAYA build...HELP NEEDED!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    VAYA build...HELP NEEDED!

    I am new to this website and new to building a bicycle.

    I am getting my Vaya frame next week and going for a touring setup.

    Here is what im thinking:

    Front derailleur: Shimano Sora Triple
    Rear derailleru: Shimano Deore, 9 Speed long cage
    Cassette: Shimano HG-50, 9 speed 11-34T
    Shifters: Shimano ST-4501 Tiagra STI Double Shifter Lever Set (9-Speed)

    My questions is, are there issues with the STI shifters if I run a mtn bike cassette to obtain the gear range desired for touring? I have heard that there can be issues with shifting.

    Any suggestions or comments are greatyl appreciated.....Thanks!

    Al

  2. #2
    Nature Rider, Not MTBer
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    Why a triple front derailleur and a double shifter? If you want three chainrings, both should be triple.


    I have a tandem and a vaya, both with shimano ultegra sti shifters and mountain cassettes. The shifting isn't actually as great as I'd like, but I'd always ascribed it to my crappy mechanical skills and to the long cable run on the tandem. And the shifting still basically works. What issues have you heard with that sort of combination? I'd feel a bit better if my non-perfect shifting wasn't my fault.
    This is no time for levity. - Oliver Hardy

  3. #3
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    Sorry, I meant triple on the shifters.

    I was told the shifting can be really difficult at really high and really low gears.

  4. #4
    i heart singletrack
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksmart113 View Post
    Sorry, I meant triple on the shifters.

    I was told the shifting can be really difficult at really high and really low gears.
    You'll be fine... A good mechanic can make it work. It may not be "Shimano ideal", but you should be able to set it up to shift and work just fine.

    That said, I decided to go with a double on my Vaya (36/50) running with a 11-34 cassette in the rear. I like the simplicity and have plenty of gears for my uses.
    I like bikes

  5. #5
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    I have mixed Shimano MTB and road derailleurs and shifters for years.
    It works as fine as the quality of the individual components (accordingly long cage rear derailleurs don't shift as well) but I don't think you will see a difference in high and low gears.
    MTB and road cassettes have the same spacing between cogs (9-speed is 9-speed)
    So, cassettes can be exchanged easily as long as the derailleur can clear the largest cog.
    With an MTB derailleur, you're good.
    I think the front derailleurs have different pull ratios but since you're using a road derailleur and a road shifter, no problem here too.
    You should be absolutely fine.

  6. #6
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    thanks....extremely helpful

  7. #7
    Ballstein Models
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    On my Vaya I have the 6700 Ultegra 10Spd shifters, a XTR SGS 970 "9" Spd rear derailleur, a SRAM OG1070 10 speed 11/36 road cassette, Ultegra 6700 10 spd double front mech, a Wipperman Conex 10 spd chain, and a SRAM road compact double front chainset.

    Thats a lot of mix and match. All works like a dream.
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  8. #8
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    vaya cranksets

    Salsa specifies a "ROAD compact double or triple" crankset for the Vaya. They told me that a mtb crankset would have an improper chainline and create shifting problems so I bought a 48-36-28 touring road crankset with a square tapered BB.

    I would really prefer an mtb crankset (probably a Shimano SLX) and have been told it will work just fine. My FD is an SLX and shifters are XT on a flat bar.

    Can someone provide me with the tiebreaker? I really don't want to get the damned thing and find out it is problematical.

    Why would Salsa specify a road crankset if it doesn't actually matter?

    Thanks!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by asmac View Post
    Salsa specifies a "ROAD compact double or triple" crankset for the Vaya. They told me that a mtb crankset would have an improper chainline and create shifting problems so I bought a 48-36-28 touring road crankset with a square tapered BB.

    I would really prefer an mtb crankset (probably a Shimano SLX) and have been told it will work just fine. My FD is an SLX and shifters are XT on a flat bar.

    Can someone provide me with the tiebreaker? I really don't want to get the damned thing and find out it is problematical.

    Why would Salsa specify a road crankset if it doesn't actually matter?

    Thanks!
    I would not be too concerned by the shifting as long as your FD can reach the large chainring.
    The Vaya rear hub being a 135mm (road is 130mm), the chainline should be identical to that of an MTB.
    All About Bicycle Chainline

    MTB cranks having a higher Q-factor than road cranks (the vertical plane in which the pedal is rotating is further away from the central symetry plane of the frame, does it make sense ?), you can probably play with shorter spindle BB to bring the chainline closer anyway if it is a square taper.

    If you already have the touring crankset with a small ring of 28. Are you sure you want something even smaller ? With a 12-32 cassette, you should have plenty of low gears ?

  10. #10
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    Anyone know where I can find a Vaya Ti 57cm to buy?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by asmac View Post
    Salsa specifies a "ROAD compact double or triple" crankset for the Vaya. They told me that a mtb crankset would have an improper chainline and create shifting problems so I bought a 48-36-28 touring road crankset with a square tapered BB.

    I would really prefer an mtb crankset (probably a Shimano SLX) and have been told it will work just fine. My FD is an SLX and shifters are XT on a flat bar.

    Can someone provide me with the tiebreaker? I really don't want to get the damned thing and find out it is problematical.

    Why would Salsa specify a road crankset if it doesn't actually matter?

    Thanks!
    I am running a sram X0 mtn crank (36/42) and a 28-11 in the rear. It took a little while to dial in but she works great now! Great gearing for gravel around Iowa.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the feedback, I've placed the order. I generate a fair bit of torque and my square bracket is getting creaky. I figure that 44/11 of the new setup will give me the same high gear as my current 48/12 plus give me more at the bottom -- 22/34 vs 28/36. I'm not exactly a racer and rarely use the top end but when I need the low end I really need it.

    BTW, "Q Factor" is a new one for me. If I understand correctly, electric "bikes" could be said to have a very high Q Factor... is that the idea?
    Last edited by asmac; 09-18-2012 at 02:38 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by asmac View Post
    BTW, "Q Factor" is a new one for me. If I understand correctly, electric "bikes" could be said to have a very high Q Factor... is that the idea?
    Electric bikes ? I have no clue. Don't they use a traditional crank/ chain/ hub ?
    In short, with a narrower Q-factor, you pedal with your feet closer to each other in a transversal plane, improving the aerodynamics as well as the bio-mechanical efficiency of your legs....
    What I was trying to say is because road bikes chainstays are narrower, road cranksets tend to have narrower Q-factors. Pedals will pass very close to the chainstays.
    Since by design, MTB crankset are rotating further away from the chainstay, if your bottom bracket allows you to play with the spindle length, you can reduce simultaneously the chainline and the Q-factor of an MTB crankset without risking to touch the chainstay.

  14. #14
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    Q factor

    Thanks for the explanation... I was unaware of that difference between road and mtb. Aerodynamics are low on my priority so this should be fine.

    Electric bikes (e-bikes) are like electric vespas, not like bicycles. They have pedals to qualify legally as bicycles but the pedals are VERY far apart, they are not meant to be used and they sometimes rotate freely. Imagine the greek chariot in Ben Hur. I'm convinced one of them will chop off my left foot if it passes too close.

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