FSA and PFBB30 bottom bracket (spearfish)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    FSA and PFBB30 bottom bracket (spearfish)

    According to Salsas guide http://salsacycles.com/culture/build...earfish_frame/
    FSA Cranks won't install correctly on Srams press fit BB30 bottom bracket. Currently it is the only PFBB30 available. I came across a great deal on the FSA Comet 386 cranks and figured what the heck, this has to work some way. well on the bench at least is appears that it will work just fine by simply removing the shield on the Sram BB. The pictures below show the removal of the shield and and a comparison of the FSA installation hardware next to Srams.

  2. #2
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    Finished the build last week and confirmed this works just fine.

  4. #4
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    Hi I have just ordered a FSA V-Drive BB30 Chainset, would the setup be the same? Also without running the seals have the bearings failed prematurely?

  5. #5
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    By removing the seals from the sram PFBB30 it should make it just like any other standard BB30 install. I have around 500 miles on this setup with lots of mud, rain, dust, and everything in between. No problems at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hudnut View Post
    By removing the seals from the sram PFBB30 it should make it just like any other standard BB30 install. I have around 500 miles on this setup with lots of mud, rain, dust, and everything in between. No problems at all.
    I got 2 muddy rides out of my PFBB30, with seals, before it seized up. Managed to get it turning again but these things are rubbish for UK weather.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickyelsdon View Post
    I got 2 muddy rides out of my PFBB30, with seals, before it seized up. Managed to get it turning again but these things are rubbish for UK weather.
    Unfortunately, there aren't any options at this point. I think FSA should have theirs available soon.

  8. #8
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    Hope I haven't bought a bad pup, been looking forward to riding the spearfish.

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    The bike is great, being cornered into a standard that has yet to develop fully is an issue. I put a lot of thought into the BB before i went ahead and bought my spearfish and the fact that Salsa have invested a lot into the standard (3 models?) gave me some faith. Now we see FSA is pushing a different standard, 386?, it looks like we might be stuck with just SRAM for a good while yet, and im yet to be fully convinced by their offerings in terms of BB reliability (ANY of their BB's that is!). TBH i wish id just waited now ive seen the Horsetheif and its BSA bottom bracket, id take the exta 1lb weight for the extra fun (120mm travel) and lack of BB worries.

  10. #10
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    Just hope somebody comes up with a workable solution to the badly sealed PFBB30 then. I even thought of removing the bearings, pressing the cups on and fitting a KCNC adaptor. Realistically I don't think that would work. Fingers crossed eh.

  11. #11
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    Really there isn't much difference between BB30 and PFBB30. I don't personally think there is a flaw in the design. The previously stated failures could have been caused by other factors such as misaligned bearings to over torquing the preload. as far as crud getting caught in the seals, perhaps there are just too many seals! my sealess setup is performing in all conditions with no problems at all.

  12. #12
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    Might have a valid point regarding too many seals.

  13. #13
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    I'm going to buy a SF this week and don't know what part I need fit my SRAM XX standard cranks on???

    Who makes an adapter for pf30 to standard that works with SRAM?

    Problem Solver makes one for Hollowtech II, FSA, and Race Face.

    Help???

  14. #14
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    Check wheels manufacturing web site, they have different shims and some nice exploded drawings to look at for inspiration.

  15. #15
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    I don't think the spearfish will work with narrow Q factor cranks.

  16. #16
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    Now I have got my new cranks(great deal BTW) and after reading the instructions can I use a headset wrench to tighten the preload nut, I think it's 36mm?

  17. #17
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    ya, just remember to torque it correctly. It won't take much

  18. #18
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    Big thanks to Hudnut on starting this thread. I have now fitted my FSA crank. I did have to run some fine wet n dry paper on the shaft to get it passed the bearings, might be a QC issue, then just followed Hudnut's pictorial. I wouldn't worry too much about the seals as the spacers take care of that. I'm based in the uk and CRC are doing my crank for 68 if anyone is interested.

  19. #19
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    As you can see from the pictures, I'm slightly worried that the gap between the lower pivot and chain ring is a bit too close for comfort. What yea all think?

    FSA and PFBB30 bottom bracket (spearfish)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1316260194.836488.jpg
    FSA and PFBB30 bottom bracket (spearfish)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1316260223.575455.jpg

  20. #20
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    After a bit of faffing about I can't used my FSA 3 ring crank due to not being able the set the front derailleur. Think it will work with a two ring set up but not three.

  21. #21
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    how far off is it? you may be able so spacer out the drive side by a few mm with the shims included with the sram BB.

  22. #22
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    I have the H screw, XT front derailleur, screwed in all the way but it is still touching the inside of the outer ring. I haven't put a chain on it yet but I reckon it will try and throw the chain off. I moved the crank to where I thought it should be and it doesn't leave much sticking out on the left. I think FSA do a press fit BB30 but getting hold of one is a different matter.
    http://www.cinelli-usa.com/public/ca...S016911?page=1

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by atgillo View Post
    I have the H screw, XT front derailleur, screwed in all the way but it is still touching the inside of the outer ring. I haven't put a chain on it yet but I reckon it will try and throw the chain off. I moved the crank to where I thought it should be and it doesn't leave much sticking out on the left. I think FSA do a press fit BB30 but getting hold of one is a different matter.
    BTI | Bottom Brackets from FSA (page 1)
    With my XTR setup the chainrings are almost touching the swingarm! and yet the front mech works fine. I dont understand how your front mech wont adjust properly as there is physically no way you could have your chainrings closer to the frame than me, maybe you need to try a different front mech?

  24. #24
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    I'm happy with the lower limit as I'm able to set that up, it's just the higher limit. I've screwed in the H screw as far in as it will go but doesn't even leave me with .5mm gap on the inner side of the outer ring. Basically no room to adjust but as I've said a two ring set up would be ok if using the FSA cranks. I imagine a sram set up would be fine.

  25. #25
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    ... and if we just ...


    Ok looked in the box and found some clear plastic shims(thanks for the suggestion Hudnut ), fitted them on the drive side and now have a couple of millimeters now. Just have to fit the chain now and set it all up.

  26. #26
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    Quick update.
    I have now set up the drive train, dialled my front and rear mechs in. All seems to be good now after fitting the plastic shims, I fitted all of them BTW, just have to see how it handles some good English mud.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hudnut View Post
    I don't think the spearfish will work with narrow Q factor cranks.
    So the spearfish won't fit the standard 156Q factor crankset in SRAM's XX line, but what about the SRAM XX 166Q factor crankset? Would this fit the spearfish?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Boz View Post
    So the spearfish won't fit the standard 156Q factor crankset in SRAM's XX line, but what about the SRAM XX 166Q factor crankset? Would this fit the spearfish?
    Boz,

    Q-166 XX cranks fit just fine.

    The issue with the Q-156 crank is not actually the Q-factor width, but rather the inside surface of the crank arm and contact with the left-side chainstay end. The BB30 arm has a fat "bicep" on the inside that bulges out and causes the interference. The Q-166 arms do not have this bulge on the inside of the arm. No bulge, no problem.

    Additionally the GXP Q-156 XX crank also lacks this bulge, so it can be run on the 'Fish with the appropriate reducer.

    It's only the BB30 Q-156 XX cranks that have the fit issue.

    [email protected]

  29. #29
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    Zarf, exactly what is the appropriate reducer that would make the fish work with the Q156 GXP crankset and GXP bracket?

    Thanks!

  30. #30
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    bump, can anyone answer this question? ^^^

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Boz View Post
    Zarf, exactly what is the appropriate reducer that would make the fish work with the Q156 GXP crankset and GXP bracket?

    Thanks!
    SRAM makes a PF30 to BSA converter. It is basically a set of resin cups that press into the 46mm shell and have standard english threading. You need to thread and torque each GXP cup in to each adaptor first, then press both R and L sub-assembly into the frame, and lastly install the GXP cranks as usual.

  32. #32
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    I using the SRAM converter and running 2012 XT m785 crank, took a little playing around to get correct spacers but working like a charm

  33. #33
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    hello

    FSA now sells a PF30 bottom bracket.
    I was able to install a Kforce light crankset without problems with it.
    Frenchspeaking 29"ers community site http://VingtNeuf.org

  34. #34
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    thanks for the post, i am trying to figure out mine right now
    Last edited by hobiesmith; 03-11-2012 at 10:48 AM.

  35. #35
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    No good

    Ok quick update and its not good.
    My BB seized up on Saturday after riding it through the winter months and it has damaged the spindle. So for my type of riding and area that i ride in, basically mud and water in the UK, its not the best option.
    i have managed to get a new set of FSA cranks for 75 and have ordered the correct BB to go with them but it wont arrive till the end of April. I have the problem solvers and a set of SLX cranks, so to keep me turning I will buy the SRAM PF30 BB and use that set up for a while.
    So keep an eye on your PF30 BB if you have taken the seals off.

  36. #36
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    Just thought
    Has anyone used the problem solvers, if so do they creak under load or have had any issues with them?

  37. #37
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    Went out for a ride wit the problem solver set up, first impressions are good. I will see how it's goes over the next few months.
    I've also received the new FSA PF30 bottom bracket and will try this out when the SRAM one fails.
    TBH the SRAM BB seem better sealed than the FSA BB.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails FSA and PFBB30 bottom bracket (spearfish)-imageuploadedbytapatalk1334408409.793473.jpg  


  38. #38
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    looking at the FSA it appears to be no different than the SRAM with the seals removed. Can you read what manufacturer/model the bearings are?

  39. #39
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    No makers name on the bearing seal, but they sit slightly higher in the cups than the SRAM ones, only a few mm.
    They are 6806 2rs I think.

    OD 40mm ID 30mm
    Last edited by atgillo; 04-14-2012 at 10:50 AM.

  40. #40
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    That might be 42mm OD

  41. #41
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    Ok quick update. Checked pivot bearings today so had to remove crank to do this. Guess what found the none drive bb bearing gritty and only after 8 rides on the SRAM pf30 bb with the problem solvers fitted. Not good these press fit set ups. Time for a rethink.

  42. #42
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    I built my SF over the winter with the SRAM PF30 BB and Problem Solvers adapters to run Shimano cranks. The BB lasted about a dozen rides before it started clicking under load. I pulled the seals and they were filled with water/grit. Big thumbs down. I've installed the Truvativ PF30 to BSA adapter and had a couple rides on it so far with no creaking or other issues. I wish I had known of the BSA adapter when I first built it. $60 gone and the pleasure of swinging a hammer at a brand new bike to remove the old cups. Put me in the "hates PF30" column. Bleh.

  43. #43
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    I think this one is going to be the answer

    Doh, cant post links

    Race Face are making a much better looking adapter, go have a look

  44. #44
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    Try again

    Race Face 2012

  45. #45
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    After a long weekend of riding I took my cranks off to inspect the bearings yesterday. I pulled the seals off the bearings and the grease was still fresh and they turned smoothly. during reassembly I over-torqued the preload nut on the bb30 cranks and they felt as they turned with some resistance. I backed the nut off to the proper torque and they spun smoothly as before. I'm not saying that improper torque on the preload nut is the cause of bearing failures, but I sure think if over-torqued it could contribute. It does not need to be tight, just needs to take up any side to side play.

  46. #46
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    Just to throw another wrinkle into the discussion. I built up my SF 1 with the Parlee PF 30 BB (for Shimano type cranks) and Rotor 2 x 10 cranks (163mm Q factor) and it has worked perfectly. Zero creaking and excellent fit. Highly recommended set up.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dambala View Post
    Just to throw another wrinkle into the discussion. I built up my SF 1 with the Parlee PF 30 BB (for Shimano type cranks) and Rotor 2 x 10 cranks (163mm Q factor) and it has worked perfectly. Zero creaking and excellent fit. Highly recommended set up.
    I went the same route, and it creaks like crazy. My drive side cup has managed to work itself out a couple times as well. So far I'm not digging this new BB standard.

  48. #48
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    The failed BBs I've had have been to water and dirt getting into the none drive side. So I've fitted a VDrive crank,FSA pf30 and checked the bearings before fitting. The drive side had plenty of grease in and the none drive side has another seal under the dust seal. Time will tell if it's a good unit?

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