Bucksaw2, 2x to 1x converts out there care to comment?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Bucksaw2, 2x to 1x converts out there care to comment?

    I went from 2x10 to 1x10 by removing the front gearing and dérailleur, and installing a 30T Wolf Tooth. I think the chain line is pushing it and want to know what others think.

    In 50 miles I dropped the chain once to the inside. I will post a picture in 12 hours or so.


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    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  2. #2
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    I run a 24t narrow wide 64 bcd and bash on the outside. I like the chain line from the inside ring. Haven't dropped the chain.
    11-36 for my cassette. For my rides, style, and fitness, this gearing works. If I am tempted to spin out, I coast.

  3. #3
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    Daniel,

    Yes, when keeping the stock crank set, I've come to the conclusion that I need to put a bash guard in the 104 and the ring in the 64. I've ordered a 28T to and Bash from Wolf Tooth and I really really hope it works out.

    Here is the chain line with a Race Face 30T in the 104 slot going to the 10th gear. It lines up best going to the 2nd or 3rd.

    Bucksaw2, 2x to 1x converts out there care to comment?-0113144077759e7d971282796fd37b57cf8f162784.jpg
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  4. #4
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    So I installed the Wolf Tooth 28T 64 bcd on the stock crank set, and put a Wolf Tooth Bash guard in the 104 bcd slot. Chain line is soooooo much better, definitely the way to go folks. Don't even bother trying something in the 104 bcd slot.

    That means your limited to 28T as the current largest, unless you replace the crank set.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  5. #5
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    I installed the Wolf Tooth 42T and the 16T. Not a fan of the 16, I just can't get it to shift well in or out of that gear. I installed it as per the instructions. With the SRAM 1050 cassette and installed, it doesn't come close to the wave pattern cut into the cassette. I would have to install it contrary to instructions, one counter clockwise position. Before going there, I decided to install the 15T back instead and prefer that to the 16T for sure.

    I


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    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  6. #6
    since 4/10/2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jester7677 View Post
    I installed the Wolf Tooth 42T and the 16T. Not a fan of the 16, I just can't get it to shift well in or out of that gear. I installed it as per the instructions. With the SRAM 1050 cassette and installed, it doesn't come close to the wave pattern cut into the cassette. I would have to install it contrary to instructions, one counter clockwise position. Before going there, I decided to install the 15T back instead and prefer that to the 16T for sure.

    I


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    I got the WT 16t cog to work just fine on mine. SRAM 1050 cassette, also. True, it's not ramped. But I haven't found that to be a big deal. I do find the shifting adjustments to be pretty finicky, though. One click on the barrel adjuster can make it far too easy to overshift to the next gear, especially into the 42t. But once it's dialed, everything shifts perfectly. x9 med cage der with an xx shifter on my setup.

  7. #7
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    X9 cage (stock, don't know if that's long or medium) with X9 shifter. I fiddled with it for a long time. To get it to stop trying to jump into the 42t, I increased the limit for that cog a hair, so I could back off the barrel, but the low end not so good. Maybe I'll replace the hanger some day and try again, just to see...


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    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  8. #8
    since 4/10/2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jester7677 View Post
    X9 cage (stock, don't know if that's long or medium) with X9 shifter. I fiddled with it for a long time. To get it to stop trying to jump into the 42t, I increased the limit for that cog a hair, so I could back off the barrel, but the low end not so good. Maybe I'll replace the hanger some day and try again, just to see...


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    Hangers can be tweaked a little bit with the right tool. Any shop worth its salt should have one.

    It really is finicky, though. Cable tension, limit screws, and the b-screw need to be exactly right. Chainline will also affect your end result.

    I have over 600mi on my cassette. I did get some fairly rapid chain wear and I needed to install a new one at 500mi or so, but the gears themselves look good. My RF chainring is in good shape. I did have some crappy shifting after replacing the chain, though. Just couldn't get it exactly right.

    Turns out, my housing was the problem. Mechanic at my shop insisted I not use the plastic ferrules that came with my housing, first off. Then he told me that when I pulled the ferrule off, if the outer sheath had pulled back from the wires that make up the structural component of the housing, to trim the housing until it's even.

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    Mine didn't look frayed like this, but I did have about 1/4" of the wires sticking out of the sheath. Basically, when cable tension is applied through the shifter, those wires could move and mash around, resulting in imprecise cable pull at the derailleur. I also installed a new inner shift wire while I was at it. Those things addressed my iffy shifting when I swapped my chain. Now it's perfect again.

  9. #9
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    Why no ferrule? Eliminate any play between housing and dérailleur? I need to change my shift cable so I'll keep that in mind.


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    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

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