29" non-boost wheelset for Timberjack 2017 GX1- Spacer question- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    29" non-boost wheelset for Timberjack 2017 GX1- Spacer question

    Hey All - if this question has been answered many times already, I apologize. I just couldn't find it!
    I have a non boost 29" complete wheelset available to me that I want to have for my TJ which I believe is a boost factory set up.

    details of what is available to me:
    it's not fancy but would be fun to have for my GX1
    WTB i23 Race 29" wheelset, SRAM x9 Hubs non boost
    front 100x15mm with 2.3 WTB TCS Vigilante
    rear 142x12mm with WTB 2.25 TCS Trail Boss

    I believe I just a hub conversion kit?
    in this link, https://www.velofuze.com/boost-hub-adapters/
    does anybody know which one I would need?

    or am I way off on what I need to do.

    Thanks for the help -

  2. #2
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    The front is the easy one, there is only one choice and you only need to get one interface to line up (the rotor/caliper), so that should go easily.

    The choice for rear is a bit trickier, since you need to get 2 interfaces to line up (the rotor/caliper and the cassette/chainline). If you can re-dish the wheel, then the rear kit with the 6mm spacer would be the better choice, since it will maintain the chainline, but you need to dish the wheel and keep it true in the process. If you can't redish the wheel, then you would need the kit with the 3mm spacers. This wont require redishing, but will basically move the cassette inboard 3mm, which might make the largest gear more difficult to use. If you don't know what dishing is, use this option.

    Salsa also has (or at least had) some different dropout plates that you could swap in to use non-boost wheels, but that requires more bike-side work, and would make it more difficult to swap the B+ wheels back in.

  3. #3
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    Thank you very much for the reply and explanation. Not sure I want to tackle dishing the rear but Iím sure my LBS would help if I want to go that route.



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  4. #4
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    The Alternators and the Boost spacing of the frame give you two options at the rear. You can do the Boost conversion on the wheel, or you can use the de-Boost Alternator spacers on the frame.

  5. #5
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    Cool. I like the wheel option so I can swap back and forth when needed. Thanks for your input on this. I have not done much work with wheels and hubs on bikes but it seems pretty straight forward once you do some research and get some good advice from the good people on this forum.


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