vertex RSL seatpost clamp- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    24

    vertex RSL seatpost clamp

    does anyone know if I can replace the existing seatpost clamp with a quick release clamp on a Vertex RSL?
    Last edited by himalayas_xc; 03-10-2010 at 12:09 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RMB-PM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    515
    Sorry, no off the shelf provisions for a QR...
    Director of Product
    Rocky Mountain Bicycles

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    24
    i ride on single tracks and some steep slopes every now and then, and i'm not too confident doing them with the seat high, and its really inconvenient having to unscrew the clamp and pushing the seat down every time i come across such a section...

    so i'm guessing my other option would be to get a seatpost such as the joplin, but man those things will add 500g to my ultra light bike... what are my options?

  4. #4
    ups and downs
    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    15,537
    Manual telescopic option

    http://www.profile-design.com/titec/...posts/el-norte

    but not much lighter at 380gms versus the Joplin at 461gms.

    With some practice you can get waaaaaay behind the seat on the Vertex.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails vertex RSL seatpost clamp-canberra2x.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    24
    i guess i'll have to polish my techniques a little better then... . thanks!

    another question. i've realised that my seat post slides down on its own during a ride. ive realised that this is because the clamp is not screwed tightly enough, but it seems pretty tight to me. i could probably tighten it a little more but because i've already lived through the nightmare of having a broken carbon frame once, I am kinda hesitant on tighetning it more. is there a possibility that if i tighten it too much, i could break it?

  6. #6
    ups and downs
    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    15,537
    If your shop has any of the TACX carbon paste you can apply that to the post, that will increase the friction at the clamp, it ships with a lot of carbon parts like FSA, it's a red jelly-like paste with some scientifically appropriate grit mixed in. My seatpost clamp is tightened using the short arm on the 4mm allen key to apply the torque with a thumb and forefinger, using the TACX paste, that is enough to keep the post from moving under my 195-200pound butt.

    Over tightening can hurt the seatpost as well as the frame.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RMB-PM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    515
    It's a bit tricky with carbon on carbon. The Tacx paste works great, though plain ol' chalk works too sometimes. Whatever you do, DON'T grease the post. I assume you haven't already?

    PS: this may seem incredibly obvious to you, but saddle selection is key here... I tried a WTB Devo a few seasons ago (my standard saddle at the time was the WTB Rocket V), and I couldn't get behind it to save my life. Way too much flare for me, my *huge tree trunk thighs * kept catching... Immediately went back to the Rocket V.
    Director of Product
    Rocky Mountain Bicycles

  8. #8
    Shore slayer
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    91
    Do you have the correct size seatpost? May want to check with a set of digital calipers. Unlikely the wrong size, but best to check everything to be certain.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by ChunkyMonkey
    Do you have the correct size seatpost? May want to check with a set of digital calipers. Unlikely the wrong size, but best to check everything to be certain.
    I use the stock 30.9 mm Easton EC70 that came with the bike itself. So I'm pretty sure the size is correct. I'll check it with a caliper nevertheless.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill
    If your shop has any of the TACX carbon paste you can apply that to the post, that will increase the friction at the clamp, it ships with a lot of carbon parts like FSA, it's a red jelly-like paste with some scientifically appropriate grit mixed in. My seatpost clamp is tightened using the short arm on the 4mm allen key to apply the torque with a thumb and forefinger, using the TACX paste, that is enough to keep the post from moving under my 195-200pound butt.

    Over tightening can hurt the seatpost as well as the frame.
    I am not too heavy either, at 150 pounds. So it's definitely not the weight thats pushing it down

    Quote Originally Posted by RMB-PM
    It's a bit tricky with carbon on carbon. The Tacx paste works great, though plain ol' chalk works too sometimes. Whatever you do, DON'T grease the post. I assume you haven't already?

    PS: this may seem incredibly obvious to you, but saddle selection is key here... I tried a WTB Devo a few seasons ago (my standard saddle at the time was the WTB Rocket V), and I couldn't get behind it to save my life. Way too much flare for me, my *huge tree trunk thighs * kept catching... Immediately went back to the Rocket V.
    I'll try getting behind the saddle, I agree toning by techniques is a lot better than looking for other options.

    May be I'm just being a little over paranoid and I should tighten the screw a little more. I'll gather a bit more courage...

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RMB-PM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    515
    Use some sort of paste / chalk regardless... Better safe than sorry.
    Director of Product
    Rocky Mountain Bicycles

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by RMB-PM
    Use some sort of paste / chalk regardless... Better safe than sorry.
    I'm sorry this might sound like a silly question but can I use the same chalk that is used in rock climbing?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RMB-PM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    515
    That's exactly the kind of chalk I'm talking about!
    Director of Product
    Rocky Mountain Bicycles

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    4
    I had the same exact problem with my ec90 post on my rsl.I torqued it to spec and it slipped after a short ride. I applied some carbon friction paste and retorqued the clamp to spec. My post hasn't slipped since I applied the paste.I would highly recommend using a torque wrench when working with carbon. I have found that "tight" by hand is usually excessive. Good luck.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    I had problem with my post slipping too. I applied regular grease.

    I then used a little carbon paste and never had my post move during a complete season.
    I've also found that the stock bolt that came on my vertex rsl had very little bolt socket depth for the 4mm allen and was prone to stripping. After some tightening and untightening the bolt was damaging itself (no overtorquing). I've put a regular bolt and the problem was solved.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    27
    My Vertex RSL's maiden ride last weekend happened to be an XC race - I was goaded in to racing it on its first outing by my mates. I thought - well, so what. Gotta get stuck in. Towards the end of the first lap, legs and back were burning, so suspected seatpost slippage, and found it was down by over an inch. Bit of rummaging to get the allen out; underway in about a minute. Now 3/4 way down the field. Same thing happened on the second lap. On the third lap, stopped again, but found it hadn't slipped down. Same on the fourth. So basically, all this stationary action wasn't conducive to a good race result. :-)

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    916
    Quote Originally Posted by Sweptwind
    My Vertex RSL's maiden ride last weekend happened to be an XC race - I was goaded in to racing it on its first outing by my mates. I thought - well, so what. Gotta get stuck in. Towards the end of the first lap, legs and back were burning, so suspected seatpost slippage, and found it was down by over an inch. Bit of rummaging to get the allen out; underway in about a minute. Now 3/4 way down the field. Same thing happened on the second lap. On the third lap, stopped again, but found it hadn't slipped down. Same on the fourth. So basically, all this stationary action wasn't conducive to a good race result. :-)
    A maiden ride in a XC race wasn't the best idea...

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    221
    What's the recommended torque setting for the clamp bolt?

    Rich
    Rocky Mountain 2003 Hammer, 2009 Vertex 70 RSL, 2012 Element 970
    2012 Wilier Triestina Gran Turismo

  18. #18
    ccm
    ccm is offline
    aka Taprider
    Reputation: ccm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    771
    hopefully 2011 Element will have quick release seatpost option

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    10
    recommended torque setting? 4nm?

  20. #20
    ups and downs
    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    15,537
    4-5Nm should be safe.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.