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  1. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashidy View Post
    That is correct. They replaced it with the new one that is two pieces.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
    But the derrailleur is in a completely different location!..

  2. #702
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    Ahh didn't notice that. I'll have s look at mine when I get home this week. I've been carrying the new spare in my bike bag with the larger Allen key as well. I'll check if mine is "different".

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  3. #703
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    Greetings from Australia. I just finished building a 2019 70 model.

    I swapped out the wheels for a set of DT EX511 I built onto Hope Pro4 hubs, the Hope E4 brakes I had on my old bike, and my preferred bars/stem/saddle. Some Invisiframe, and Slik Graphics decals on forks and shock rounded it off.

    Really happy with how it rides so far, and looking forward to sharing tuning and setup info.

    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181006_164508%7E3.jpg

    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181006_164756%7E2.jpg

    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181006_164543%7E2.jpg

    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181006_164838%7E2.jpg

    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181006_165006%7E2.jpg

  4. #704
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    Sexual! i want a carbon black frame!

  5. #705
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    Looks sensational tek!

  6. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    Greetings from Australia. I just finished building a 2019 70 model.

    I swapped out the wheels for a set of DT EX511 I built onto Hope Pro4 hubs, the Hope E4 brakes I had on my old bike, and my preferred bars/stem/saddle. Some Invisiframe, and Slik Graphics decals on forks and shock rounded it off.

    Really happy with how it rides so far, and looking forward to sharing tuning and setup info.

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    Very nice....

    I'm Melbourne based and haven't seen another Slayer out there yet...

    I'm stock standard though on a 2017 750 MSL

  7. #707
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    Quote Originally Posted by northvanguy View Post
    Very nice....

    I'm Melbourne based and haven't seen another Slayer out there yet...

    I'm stock standard though on a 2017 750 MSL
    Thanks, I'm from Melbourne too and have only seen maybe 2 Slayers out in the wild! Altitudes seem to be much more common. I wonder if people worry about the Slayer being unsuitable for all-round use?

  8. #708
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    I have sram with original one piece hanger. The new two piece that i have as a spare looks identical to the one piece minus the obvious nut change. Not sure why you're is different. Sram vs shimano shouldn't man's a difference either. Not sure what one they gave you.

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  9. #709
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    Working on the build slowly at the moment.... The next question pops up. I removed the shock to replace it with a DHX2 and discovered the Ride 4 chips are a less tight fit than those on my T-bolt and previous altitude. Is this okay? I seem to recall an earlier post where somebody actually has a problem with them....

  10. #710
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    Mine are less tight than they were on my 16 altitude. I clean them occasionally and put some grease on the faces. Have yet to have a problem

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  11. #711
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    Cheers, thanks for the info!

  12. #712
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    I'm not the one who posted that, but mine is showing the same. A somewhat concerning amount of play. Regularly greased and torqued to spec.

  13. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnwill View Post
    I'm not the one who posted that, but mine is showing the same. A somewhat concerning amount of play. Regularly greased and torqued to spec.
    What exactly are you greasing? The 4 facing sides against the frame or just the axle?

    I've only ever adjusted mine once to set it at ride 1... I wonder if never touching it is better than servicing it.

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  14. #714
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    I figured it out. I had to take the little dogbone thing off the derailer . Now its is sweet.

  15. #715
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    Quote Originally Posted by northvanguy View Post
    What exactly are you greasing? The 4 facing sides against the frame or just the axle?

    I've only ever adjusted mine once to set it at ride 1... I wonder if never touching it is better than servicing it.

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    The pivot. Not sure why the inserts would need greasing? I take most of the pivots apart to clean them after riding mud or before a race (4 times this season). I've done this for years. Other than its maiden voyage, I've ridden it in the slackest setting. I ride it a fair bit (2-4 times a week) and it has seen about 15 resort days. Im a lightweight, still haven't bottomed out the suspension....

  16. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnwill View Post
    I ride it a fair bit (2-4 times a week) and it has seen about 15 resort days. Im a lightweight, still haven't bottomed out the suspension....
    If yourve done all that riding and havent bottomed the bike then you have the suspension set too firm. You should bottom on your hardest regular hit.

    PS Fox x2 travel doesnt extend to all the shaft length. So if you are baseing your non bottoming on the oring no reaching the end of the shaft you may well be bottoming and not know it!

  17. #717
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  18. #718
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    I think what's happening is that too much play allows the chips to rotate, especially in positions 2, 3 and 4. If the chips rotate the shock forces aren't distributed nicely along the flat sides of the chip, but end up on the rounded corners. This causes point loading and the carbon eventually locally deforms. That allows yet more rotation, making things worse. A loose thru-bolt, probably wouldn't help either.

    I'm going to try and shim the less tight of the two shims (driveside) and assume it will be fine. Another solution for already somewhat damaged frames would be a Ride1 chip where the bolt hole is right in the center of the chip.

  19. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post
    If yourve done all that riding and havent bottomed the bike then you have the suspension set too firm. You should bottom on your hardest regular hit.

    PS Fox x2 travel doesnt extend to all the shaft length. So if you are baseing your non bottoming on the oring no reaching the end of the shaft you may well be bottoming and not know it!
    I haven't bottomed mine out by letting all the air out, but it has 65mm of stanchion under the o ring when the bike is at rest. Seems to me the ring would be pushed all the way to the end if I bottomed out during a ride.

  20. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    ...it has 65mm of stanchion under the o ring when the bike is at rest.
    I think Plummet is right. As far as I know, all Fox air shocks have about 2 mm of shaft that's never used. If you're measuring 65 mm from seal to o-ring you're getting max. travel.

  21. #721
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    Hey guys Iím in the market for a slayer but Iím unsure about sizing (my local RMB dealer doesnít have a slayer for me to test). Iím 5í10Ē and wear a 30 inseam pant. I currently ride a 2015 kona Process 153 and it has 435mm of reach for a size medium. I checked rockyís Geo chart and it seems like the medium slayer is up to 10mm shorter and the large is at minimum 10mm longer than my processís reach. Any advice for what size to get? I do prefer a more flickable bike, so Iím leaning towards a medium unless someone strongly objects. Thanks

  22. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by eric View Post
    I think Plummet is right. As far as I know, all Fox air shocks have about 2 mm of shaft that's never used. If you're measuring 65 mm from seal to o-ring you're getting max. travel.
    Yep. 65mm is approximately to where the Kashima writing is.

  23. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by NubTubLub64 View Post
    Hey guys Iím in the market for a slayer but Iím unsure about sizing (my local RMB dealer doesnít have a slayer for me to test). Iím 5í10Ē and wear a 30 inseam pant. I currently ride a 2015 kona Process 153 and it has 435mm of reach for a size medium. I checked rockyís Geo chart and it seems like the medium slayer is up to 10mm shorter and the large is at minimum 10mm longer than my processís reach. Any advice for what size to get? I do prefer a more flickable bike, so Iím leaning towards a medium unless someone strongly objects. Thanks
    How many spacers did you run under the stem on the Process?

    The Slayer has quite a tall head tube which reduces the need to run spacers compared to bikes which have shorter head tubes. Less spacers means less reduction of reach.

  24. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by NubTubLub64 View Post
    Hey guys Iím in the market for a slayer but Iím unsure about sizing (my local RMB dealer doesnít have a slayer for me to test). Iím 5í10Ē and wear a 30 inseam pant. I currently ride a 2015 kona Process 153 and it has 435mm of reach for a size medium. I checked rockyís Geo chart and it seems like the medium slayer is up to 10mm shorter and the large is at minimum 10mm longer than my processís reach. Any advice for what size to get? I do prefer a more flickable bike, so Iím leaning towards a medium unless someone strongly objects. Thanks
    I'm the same height and I've ridden medium Kona's which feel good and large Rocky's which also feel good.

  25. #725
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I ran 2 spacers under the bars of my kona. I spoke to a guy at the shop I bought the bike from and he said heís got a coworker, exact same dimensions as me who preferred the medium slayer over the large, so thatís what I went with! Canít wait for it to get here!

  26. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by lillegutt View Post
    I'm around 78kg and probably around 82-84kg with gear and experimented with a DHX2 for a bit more than a week, so fresh first impressions are (the Fox calculator recommended a 450lbs so as to reach around 30% SAG when input 63% rear wheel bias):
    - 450lbs 2.75" SLS: no harsh bottom out but using full travel when huck to flat / 50cm-to-1m drops; felt like going through travel a touch too easily, and getting a touch too harsh when adding more compression damping to save some millimeters of travel; as well some bobbing when pedaling even on "climb switch"
    - 475lbs 2.75" SLS: kind of the same as above but a touch less often using all of the travel, and a touch less harsh; a touch better pedaling
    I am left wanting to try a 500lbs or 525lbs and see how it feels.

    Note that I am running a PUSH ACS3 in a Fox 36 up front (green spring) and while the regular air sprung Fox 36 2018 felt harsher than the shock, it is now kind of the opposite: the shock feels harsher than the fork.

    *edit*
    Additional note: the DHX2 does feel better on small bumps than the DPX2. The rear wheels tracks better and sticks more to the ground in situations where the DPX2 would have lost contact.
    However, the DHX2 tried with the above clearly lacks bottom out resistance, and the climb switch is not nearly as effective as the one on the DPX2.
    It feels like the DHX2 would feel much better with a tinkered shim stack to match better the leverage ratio curve of the Slayer.
    I just got a DHX2 for my Slayer. I weigh 168lbs with gear (76kgs). I've tried a 350lb, 400lb and 450lb spring and all bottom out as you indicated. I bottomed out each spring on a 4 to 5 foot drop to almost flat (slight transition). Did you ever try a 475lb or 500lb spring? Just curious what your thoughts were....

    Also what were your settings like on the 450lb spring? I found when I had HSC at 18 clicks (from fully closed / counter clockwise), I could feel a difference when doing the drop.. less harsh on the landing, but bottom out bumper still being pushed all the way to the bottom. I opted to leave it at this setting, since I was trying to find the least amount of HSC dampening without a harsh bottom out. My LSC was set at 13 clicks from fully closed. HSR 0 clicks from fully closed, so fully damped and LSR at 7 clicks from fully damped.

  27. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldog View Post
    Did you ever try a 475lb or 500lb spring? Just curious what your thoughts were....
    I settled on using the 475lbs with 0 turns preload. It gets me to the SAG and feeling I want.

    Quote Originally Posted by caldog View Post
    Also what were your settings like on the 450lb spring?
    I use a firmer setting than before so as to smooth the ride (sounds counter-intuitive but you want to avoid riding a pogo stick going fast and deep into the travel on each bump).
    This also gets rid of the "blowing through the travel" issue.
    So I ended up with (clicks from fully closed) HSC:11 LSC:11 HSR:8 LSR:10.
    Maybe closing more your HSC (threshold at which the HS circuit opens) while leaving your LSC (steepness of the dampening curve) at its current setting would leave more time to the LS circuit for damping the impacts while still being smooth. I would try something like HSC:11-10 LSC:13-14.

  28. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by caldog View Post
    I just got a DHX2 for my Slayer. I weigh 168lbs with gear (76kgs). I've tried a 350lb, 400lb and 450lb spring and all bottom out as you indicated. I bottomed out each spring on a 4 to 5 foot drop to almost flat (slight transition). Did you ever try a 475lb or 500lb spring? Just curious what your thoughts were....

    Also what were your settings like on the 450lb spring? I found when I had HSC at 18 clicks (from fully closed / counter clockwise), I could feel a difference when doing the drop.. less harsh on the landing, but bottom out bumper still being pushed all the way to the bottom. I opted to leave it at this setting, since I was trying to find the least amount of HSC dampening without a harsh bottom out. My LSC was set at 13 clicks from fully closed. HSR 0 clicks from fully closed, so fully damped and LSR at 7 clicks from fully damped.
    What I came to realise when I had a coil shock on my old bike, is that just because the bumpstop is pushed to the bottom doesn't necessarily mean the suspension bottomed out. The bumpstop compresses once it makes contact with the shock.

    This does make it hard to accurately gauge how much travel is actually being used.

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    because the bumpstop is pushed to the bottom doesn't necessarily mean the suspension bottomed out. The bumpstop compresses once it makes contact with the shock.
    +1
    The bottom out bumper is part of the travel. On the DHX2 it is about 1cm thick which means that, depending on the leverage ratio of the bike at end of travel (around 2.3-2.1 for the Slayer), the last 3 to 4cm of travel are used on the bumper.

    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    This does make it hard to accurately gauge how much travel is actually being used.
    One can put a rubber band on the shaft (or use the bottom out bumper as you did) and ride a trail where no excessive usage of the shock stroke should happen, say a track you know usually uses at max 3/4 of the travel and check that the rubber band does not exceed those 3/4. Very approximative but easy to achieve.

  30. #730
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    Quote Originally Posted by NubTubLub64 View Post
    Hey guys Iím in the market for a slayer but Iím unsure about sizing (my local RMB dealer doesnít have a slayer for me to test). Iím 5í10Ē and wear a 30 inseam pant. I currently ride a 2015 kona Process 153 and it has 435mm of reach for a size medium. I checked rockyís Geo chart and it seems like the medium slayer is up to 10mm shorter and the large is at minimum 10mm longer than my processís reach. Any advice for what size to get? I do prefer a more flickable bike, so Iím leaning towards a medium unless someone strongly objects. Thanks
    I'm 5'11" and ride a medium. I like it! I've tried it with a 50mm stem and 33mm stem. 50mm stem gives more alround performance, 33mm stem is more dh orientated with lighter front end on the climbs but adding to the sweetness of the downs.

    Note that i do prefer a short bike by todays standards. if you like chuckable throwable then i recon medium and play round with stem length to get that compromise between up and down.

  31. #731
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    5'11 you could easily ride a large too with a short stem. Playing with the ride 4 makes a big difference too. I'm over 6'1 and ride xl with a 32mm stem full stack and 790mm bars.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  32. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashidy View Post
    5'11 you could easily ride a large too with a short stem. Playing with the ride 4 makes a big difference too. I'm over 6'1 and ride xl with a 32mm stem full stack and 790mm bars.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
    Is this directed at me?

    If so, yeah, nah!

    I dont want to go longer WB or TT length. Medium is good. I do a light of tight natural mountain trails and want more agility than stability.

    PS i'm running 180mm up front, so slightly more slacked out.

  33. #733
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    Is the 2018 slayer size small has no water cage mount?

  34. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by Final-Limit View Post
    Is the 2018 slayer size small has no water cage mount?
    They all have bottle mounts. But in the small youll struggle to use it. In my medium I can only just fit a 500ml bottle with a side entry cage.

  35. #735
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    Hi guys,

    I've known this thread for a long time, back then when i was "considering" a slayer as my new bike.
    Thanks everyone for the info you've shared in here, it helped me to make my decision and i do not regret it! I ride my slayer for a few months now. So far so good, but i do have a little issue with chain slap.

    The picture shows that the "slapping area" is really extended (arrow to arrow). Is that normal ?
    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181215_182652.jpg

    Is my chain too long (see picture, where i'm on the biggest cog) ?
    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181215_182752.jpg

    Cheers !
    Thanks in advance,
    Damien

  37. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post

    No music needed for a vid like this. The sounds of the bike and wheels made this video. Curious if the sounds were "real" of if they were added in post production? Either way, it is stellar.
    *2019 Rocky Mountain Altitude C70 Custom Build*
    *2018 Pivot Mach 5.5 Custom Build*
    *2017 Knolly Warden Custom Build*

  38. #738
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    No music needed for a vid like this. The sounds of the bike and wheels made this video. Curious if the sounds were "real" of if they were added in post production? Either way, it is stellar.

    I'm guessing they have an onboard mic which is external to th camera. Sometimes they fit it right near the rear wheel.

  39. #739
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damien_Fr View Post
    Hi guys,

    I've known this thread for a long time, back then when i was "considering" a slayer as my new bike.
    Thanks everyone for the info you've shared in here, it helped me to make my decision and i do not regret it! I ride my slayer for a few months now. So far so good, but i do have a little issue with chain slap.

    The picture shows that the "slapping area" is really extended (arrow to arrow). Is that normal ?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is my chain too long (see picture, where i'm on the biggest cog) ?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cheers !
    Thanks in advance,
    Damien
    Bit hard to tell but if you calculate the perfect theoretical chain length you can usually go up to 1 link shorter (two half links) , since you won't ever bottom out in 1st gear. I did this and was able to reduce my chain length by 1 link which helps reduce chain slap.

    Also the factory chainstay guard is inadequate. I added a layer of mastic tape along the bottom edge and a couple of sections of v-belt along the top. Has helped a lot.

    Rocky Mountain Slayer!-img_20181027_161251.jpg

  40. #740
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    i see guys r running 180 forks on the slayer. anyone try the 37 mm offset?

  41. #741
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    Thank you very much for answering me Tek, i'll try to shorten my chain then

  42. #742
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    Anyone got a rubber piece where their dropper housing enters the seat tube on their bike? I tried the spares RM sent me but none fit the hole right near the rear shock.

    When I hose bike down etc clearly getting water and whatever else down there.

    I've also gone a OneUp dropper so the housing moves around....

    Just looking to see what others have and did the bike come with it?

    Cheers

  43. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by northvanguy View Post
    Anyone got a rubber piece where their dropper housing enters the seat tube on their bike? I tried the spares RM sent me but none fit the hole right near the rear shock.

    When I hose bike down etc clearly getting water and whatever else down there.

    I've also gone a OneUp dropper so the housing moves around....

    Just looking to see what others have and did the bike come with it?

    Cheers
    Yeah mine had a rubber stopper to seal this area.

  44. #744
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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    Yeah mine had a rubber stopper to seal this area.
    Hmm alright. Good to know.

    I tried one of the large rubber bits that's intended for near the headtube and it wouldn't stay in place....

  45. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by northvanguy View Post
    Hmm alright. Good to know.

    I tried one of the large rubber bits that's intended for near the headtube and it wouldn't stay in place....
    You could easily mould one using Sugru and Vaseline

  46. #746
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    I got my Slayer up for sale if you guys know anyone
    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2488715/

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