Syncros Revolution Help- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Syncros Revolution Help

    I have a set of 180mm Syncros Revos on my SS, and I'm looking for one of the hard to find bolts that attach the 'power ring' to the driveside crank.

    Here's the catch, I'm running it as a SS, so when Syncros still had them, I got a full set of the road, shortie bolts to clean up the look. Problem is, I lost one.

    I'd really like to find at least one short one, preferrably a few extras too. I have ( I think, I'll have to check) a full set of the longer ones that I'd be willing to trade, and that's really the way I'd prefer to do it, a trade for the bolts that I'm looking for, and maybe someone can use the longer ones i have around and won't use.

    Mods, if this is in the wrong place, let me know.

    PM me or post here if you've got some shorty bolts you're not using, Please.

    Plum

  2. #2
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    I think those are the hardest things to find. I've only seen one set come down the pike.

    I have a set missing two bolts...so...you're not the only one looking.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  3. #3
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    I know

    Yep, I haven't seen a set of these around for a while. There was a set on eBay a while ago, but they were the long ones, which I don't need.

    I guess I was hoping to entice someone out of a few shorties, as I have a complete set of 5 for a triple mountain setup. One is being used (with a spacer) in place of the missing shorty right now, but it sticks out and looks bad, and it bothers the sh!t of of the aesthetics snob in me. Boo Hoo.

    Anybody? Bueller? Beuller?

    Plum

  4. #4
    information leafblower
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    remind me

    ...do the inner bolts have hex heads on both the male and female bolts or was it slotted?
    i've got one inch, who needs more?

    (wanted small or medium 93 or earlier race lite, must have bonded TT cable guides)

  5. #5
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    4mm Hex

    Should be a 4mm hex on each side, if I recall correctly.

    Plum

  6. #6
    He be a moose too.
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    I broke one of those and my mechanic found something that worked just fine. I don't know what it was, but he got it from a shimano parts drawer in his toolbox. I can't go back and ask him where he got it as he is actually my former mechanic and we aren't on speaking terms. I'm sorry I can't be more specific, but it's been working fine for two years. This is from a triple and I assume uses the longer bolts. I've just checked my bike a minute ago and indeed, one of the five inner bolts is different. If it would help, I can post a picture of what he put it in there (I don't want to take it off, if it works fine...don't mess) and maybe it can help. Let me know.

    I'm also looking at another pair of Syncros cranks that I have with all five bolts intact, but this one appears different from the other set. This one has the hex nut on the inside of the ring and is threaded into the the power ring. What type of attachment is that you have? I don't much like the design that threads into the aluminum power ring, I can only see that stripping over time.

    Is this a question (not just for Plum, but for Rumpfy) that you can't use the crank or is it that you want to be authentic with your parts. I'm asking out of curiosity but also what to do when I have a problem with my cranks. My one pair of cranks are ten years old and used on a daily basis and have only lost one bolt, but I will break a second one eventually.

    Is this something I could go down to a bike or machine shop and say, "Hey, what do you have that will fit?" or would I have to get some part custom made?

    Also, are the bolts for the two larger rings standard bolts?

    Penguin

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinguwin

    Is this a question (not just for Plum, but for Rumpfy) that you can't use the crank or is it that you want to be authentic with your parts. I'm asking out of curiosity but also what to do when I have a problem with my cranks. My one pair of cranks are ten years old and used on a daily basis and have only lost one bolt, but I will break a second one eventually.

    Is this something I could go down to a bike or machine shop and say, "Hey, what do you have that will fit?" or would I have to get some part custom made?

    Also, are the bolts for the two larger rings standard bolts?

    Penguin

    I'm not sure I have an answer to your question. I'm sure there is some speciality shop somewhere which has bolts that will work as a replacement. Riding long and hard on those cranks (on top of doing that with only 4 bolts) I don't think is the best idea. They had a reputation for breaking so I've read/seen.

    Do a search for 'Syncros Revolution' and you'll see several threads about these cranks and the bolts that go with them.


    Whats more...I didn't know they had two different bolt sizes...I assumed only the one size.

    I had them on my Slingshot SS for a very short while before going to a set of forged Syncros (and now Cook Bros 'E' cranks).

    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  8. #8
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    Different Bolts

    They do use different bolts. The Power ring attachment bolts are the hardest to come by, which are the male/female gold bolts, all the ones I have are 4mm x 4mm. The chainring attachment bolts are standard bolts, but on the small ring on a triple setup, the power ring bolts actually hold on the small ring with a spacer.

    I've been using my cranks since about 1996, so I'm a little concerned about their longevity as well, but if I start breaking bolts, the search will intensify.

    Plum

  9. #9
    He be a moose too.
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    Mine are a little different

    Rumpfy, I did some searches to see what others are doing for bolts and didn't find anything other than a few people looking for them. Do you have any specific references or solutions? I've seen pics of your cranks at: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=38561

    Did you get hurt by breaking that one pair!? I've not heard of Syncros breaking, but in my searches today found a reference or two to that. I weigh 155-160 and don't break parts very often, but a crank snapping scares me quite a bit.

    The pair of well used cranks that I have, which have had a bolt replaced with a Shimano part look similar to Rumpfy's cranks in terms of the bolts used. The other pair that hasn't been used by myself, is a little different as I've described. I've got both inside & outside photos so you can see the difference from what was previously posted. All the other cranks I've seen posted look different than this pair. As mentioned previously, there is a hex bolt on the inside that threads into the spider. Perhaps it's an early pair, serial# 3460 on power ring.

    I don't know what would prevent one from jerry-rigging something. Somebody out there, who is more clever than I when it comes to parts has to be able to work out something. Ugly isn't good, but ugly is better than a non-functioning part.
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  10. #10
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    A solution for Syncros Revolution chain ring bolts!

    I was in Chicago for the January Critical Mass and while there, scoped out a few bike shops. I went to a place not too far from the loop, called Yojimbos and presented him with a Syncros chainring bolt and asked if he had one or knew what could be done. He's a helpful and friendly guy and came up with a Campy seat binder bolt that is the exact same diameter and threading as a Syncros bolt (each brand will go into the other) and only ran $3. The only difference is the Campy bolt is steel and is longer. Enter the dremel tool.

    There is a knob on the bolt that needs to be grinded off, and then I cut both of the sections down to length. It took a few minutes and Voila! A perfectly functioning Syncros chainring bolt. I cut the screw part too short so for the next one I do, it will be longer. It works fine, but why not have the maximum amount of thread?

    If anyone is interested in the measurements, send me a message, I don't have anything to measure with tonight. No need for you to futz around getting it right.

    The first picture is from L->R, standard campy bolt, cut down campy, and the original bolt. The second picture is the same order with a bolt that my mechanic came up with. It's some sort of Shimano bolt, but he wasn't sure what. If I had been thinking, I would have bought ten of them from him that day, but didn't. You can see the knob on the original bolt that needs to be grinded away. The altered bolt looks longer than the original, but that's because it has higher shoulders. It's probably best to use a little blue loctite as they can loosen with the relatively low threading.

    They look slightly different than the originals but who is going to notice? I put it on my bike and it looks like we have a winner. So there you go, Syncros Revolution chainring bolts for $3 or close enuf.

    Penguin

    P.S. Here is another thread with another solution.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by pinguwin; 03-10-2007 at 03:04 AM. Reason: adding in loctite comment

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinguwin
    I was in Chicago for the January Critical Mass and while there, scoped out a few bike shops. I went to a place not too far from the loop, called Yojimbos and presented him with a Syncros chainring bolt and asked if he had one or knew what could be done. He’s a helpful and friendly guy and came up with a Campy seat binder bolt that is the exact same diameter and threading as a Syncros bolt (each brand will go into the other) and only ran $3. The only difference is the Campy bolt is steel and is longer. Enter the dremel tool.

    There is a knob on the bolt that needs to be grinded off, and then I cut both of the sections down to length. It took a few minutes and Voila! A perfectly functioning Syncros chainring bolt. I cut the screw part too short so for the next one I do, it will be longer. It works fine, but why not have the maximum amount of thread?

    If anyone is interested in the measurements, send me a message, I don't have anything to measure with tonight. No need for you to futz around getting it right.

    The first picture is from L->R, standard campy bolt, cut down campy, and the original bolt. The second picture is the same order with a bolt that my mechanic came up with. It’s some sort of Shimano bolt, but he wasn’t sure what. If I had been thinking, I would have bought ten of them from him that day, but didn’t. You can see the knob on the original bolt that needs to be grinded away. The altered bolt looks longer than the original, but that’s because it has higher shoulders.

    They look slightly different than the originals but who is going to notice? I put it on my bike and it looks like we have a winner. So there you go, Syncros Revolution chainring bolts for $3 or close enuf.

    Penguin
    Hey Guin-
    Sorry, I missed your last post there.

    As it turns out, I didn't have any leads or info at all at bolt replacment, so I would have been no help at all.

    I gotta hand it to you, that info above is huge for any Syncros crank owners!

    I'm in need of bolts myself, so thank you for sharing that with us!
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  12. #12
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    Bolt Update

    Penguin, I tried your roadie binder bolt fix, and it worked to remove one of my spacers. I now have a complete set of long bolts (for running double rings) and a set of 4 +1 binder bolt of the shorties, for running a single ring. I have to run one chainring spacer on the binder bolt, but it's better than having to run two on the longer bolts.

    Great idea, I really appreciate the information. Knowing now that there is a female end that works in the 'power ring', finding a suitable male bolt become that much easier.

    $3.00 fix that worth a million damn dollars, love it.

    Plum

  13. #13
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    Ok, one more addition since a fellow vrc'er wants to know. I've just measured how I have the bolts cut. The inside measurement between the shoulders is 15.5 mm. The female part from the inside of the shoulder to the end is 8.5 mm.

    These measurements don't have to be precise, a little off here or there isn't going to ruin anything. Remember, measure twice, cut once, if they're too long, you can always shave a little more off.

    As mentioned before, be sure to use blue loctite on them. I had several non-loctited ones loosen (and even come off on the trail, aargh). I've not had a single problem after applying loctite.

    Pen-Goo-Eee-Nee

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the tip on the locktite.

    I might not have thought of it and would rather keep the original bolts that I have as long as possible. I could see myself in such a rush to get out an the trail that I would have forgot that step. hopefully the rest of the project comes together in the next little bit

    thanks for the head check (slow down and think)

  15. #15
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    Ditto on the use of Loctite. It's almost mandatory.

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