Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk

    I thought it makes sense to share some pictures & experiences between SB V2 owners.

    Here are some pictures of my large SB V2 that I took during our vacation on Madeira.

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3308.jpg
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3253.jpg
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3335.jpg

    First issue I have is that the lower shock bushing has play after only 4-5 rides. Anyone else has play in the rear end?
    My V1 Switchblade had the same bushings for nearly 3 years without any issues. I'll take the shock out this weekend and get in contact with my Pivot dealer on Monday.
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  2. #2
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    Had time to take a closer look today at the issue with the play in the rear end. Turns out that my lower shock screw has play within the bushing.
    I'm pretty sure that was an issue from the beginning. I guess just a tolerance issue that should be no big deal to get replaced/fixed.

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3384.jpg
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  3. #3
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    Already got an answer with a fix.
    The lower shock screw needs to be tightened with 16nm instead of the recommended 13nm. Now the problem seems to be gone.

    Apparently this happened before so might be worth checking when you have your new bike.
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    I'm going to pull the trigger on one this week assuming theyre available. Really torn on color, would prefer the green but the blue may look better with the build kit that's going on it. Have some silver accents with the cane creek ti cranks, xtr 4 piston brakes, and silver I9's on my Enve's. Going to run A Lyrik and a Super Deluxe Ultimate Coil. Hopefully one one isn't available in XL so that can make the decision for me.

  5. #5
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    Had the same lower bolt problem, tightened it and it fixed it.

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    A few more things from my side.

    Race Face Next R Cranks: I installed the upgrade cranks (supplied by Pivot). One thick and one thin spacer on each side works out well and gives the correct chain line.
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3426.jpg

    Seat Post Cable: The original Jagwire cable housing is pretty thin (I believe its 4mm). This means it's not well clamped and things become noise pretty quickly. I switched to a 5mm Shimano cable which improved things. Would still be interested in how others handle this issue (it's the same on every Pivot frame I believe).
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3427.jpg

    I also installed a -1 angle set from Works components. Good improvement. I wonder if -1.5 would have been even better.
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3423.jpg
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  7. #7
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    220/200mm Hope rotors, 30t Wolftooth chainring, OneUp composite flats, tubeless and fully Ridewrapped. Have a few items left to install like crank boots, 35mm rise Renthal Fatbar and Apex stem, Chromag Squarewave XL grips and Trailmaster DT seat. Iíll give the stock seat/bars a chance first though.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-37a11a17-0ddf-42d2-ba28-77b4fc6b0b45.jpeg  


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    Looks great! I wonít be able to hold off much longer.....

  9. #9
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    Love this color

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    Got the new bike home. I hung it on my scale and I was surprised itís reading 34.0lbs. Anyone else have an XL that theyíve weighed?

    This is an XL Team XTR with 30t Wolftooth chainring, 220/203mm Hope floating rotors, Ridewrap vinyl kit, OneUp composite pedals, Raceface crank boots, Renthal Carbon 35mm rise Fatbar with Chromag Squarewave XL grips, tires converted to tubeless and Shockwiz attached. I guess some of that stuff adds up fast but according to specs should only have added 1.5lbs and shoukd have maybe lost a little with the tubeless conversion. Anyone else have an XL, whatís it weigh? 32.5lb shipping weight seem about right?

    Iím not a weight weenie, just a bike geek. My scale might be inaccurate too, itís a cheapo Performance Tools hanging unit rated for 600lbs so bicycles are definitely very low on itís spectrum.

  11. #11
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    My XL Pro XT with xt pedals weighed 32.9 on my bathroom digital scales. I replaced the DHRII with a Mountain King so it would roll and dropped a pound. It's a pig but it's a fun pig!

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    Has anyone swapped to a coil yet on the SB? I've been itching to try one out, thinking Hazzard or DHX2.

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    Just got mine today. Blue size L. Came off of a 2018 mach 6, the sb is so much fun to ride. I am looking at carbon wheels for my next upgrade.

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    Question, I was surprised my Team XTR build didnít come with the i-spec shifter/brake clamp. Did anyone elseís? Is there an adapter I can use to integrate them without changing components?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Camstyn View Post
    Question, I was surprised my Team XTR build didnít come with the i-spec shifter/brake clamp. Did anyone elseís? Is there an adapter I can use to integrate them without changing components?
    Shimano part number Y0FA98050
    Retail is $51.

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    Mine came with full i-spec setup.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camstyn View Post
    Question, I was surprised my Team XTR build didnít come with the i-spec shifter/brake clamp. Did anyone elseís? Is there an adapter I can use to integrate them without changing components?
    Mine did both brake and dropper

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  18. #18
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    Had to warranty the raceface cranks because they were clicking like crazy. While doing that picked up an absolute black chain ring

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    Bike looks great, same color I went with and I have to say I donít think pictures do this color of blue justice!
    How did you come up with the number of spacers on each side with the race face next r crank install? Does anyone know how pivot is setting up the spacers to optimize chainline?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by weaver84 View Post
    Bike looks great, same color I went with and I have to say I donít think pictures do this color of blue justice!
    How did you come up with the number of spacers on each side with the race face next r crank install? Does anyone know how pivot is setting up the spacers to optimize chainline?
    Yes! Check what I wrote here reg. the cranks:
    https://forums.mtbr.com/pivot-cycles...l#post14607901
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  21. #21
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    I love blue bikes but that green had really won me over. So many good beautiful bikes these days. 😎🤙
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    Were you able to measure if this gave you the recommended 65.5 mm chainline recommended by Pivot?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by weaver84 View Post
    Were you able to measure if this gave you the recommended 65.5 mm chainline recommended by Pivot?
    I did not measure it but it was the specs that my dealer gave me and the shifting works flawless now!
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    Shot from yesterday. Love how this bike rides with a -1 AngleSet.
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_3610.jpg
    Also it's rolling so much better with the 2.5 Aggressor in the back. I wonder if the OEM tires are heavier than aftermarket tires?
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    Yup! This was the ticket! The OCD side of me also confirmed with the online chat Pivot offers quick response! Thanks Again!

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    Had my 2018 Santa Cruz Hightower LT XX1 stolen two weeks ago from a locked garage.

    Went to my LBS and demo'd a pivot switchblade. First time on a shimano drive train. What a treat it was. Thing climbed exceptionally well compared to my 160mm forked hightower LT with an x2.

    Those short chainstays are sick.

    Placed my order today for a Large Team XTR in green and also ordered a Fox DHX2 coil to check it out.

    I'm hoping since I placed that order today it'll come with the newly announced Fox 2021 36 fork. LBS told me it'd be about a month out until my bike arrived.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bliz2z View Post
    Shot from yesterday. Love how this bike rides with a -1 AngleSet.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also it's rolling so much better with the 2.5 Aggressor in the back. I wonder if the OEM tires are heavier than aftermarket tires?
    Just installed the same tire on the rear of mine as well. We'll see how well it does this weekend.

  28. #28
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    Me too, but I havenít yet...
    I did put a PUSH ACS3 in though...
    What are people using for a chain guide/bash guard? I tried to use my OneUp components V1 bash guide and it did not seem to be compatible with the superboost spacing?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by weaver84 View Post
    Me too, but I havenít yet...
    I did put a PUSH ACS3 in though...
    What are people using for a chain guide/bash guard? I tried to use my OneUp components V1 bash guide and it did not seem to be compatible with the superboost spacing?
    I have the same bashguide on my Firebird 29. No spacers under the ISCG mount, and I think all but one spacer for the guide is what worked for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by Owler
    Do not dispute right of way with a tree.

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    Anyone besides me looking at upgrading to carbon wheels? I did not have the option when I bought as I purchased the demo bike. I like the Nobl's with onyx hubs.

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    I have the OneUp with bash guard on mine. Fits great when you use the included spacers.
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    Been six days since I ordered.

    Bike hasn't got here yet and I've already ordered an ergon sm seat, wolftooth grips, wolftooth lever, ridewrap, crank boots, mrp bash guard, fidlock bottle mount, fox dhx2 coil with a 550lb spring.

    Anybody else thrown a coil on this bike yet? What's your weight and spring you've used with sag %? I'm 225lbs 6'0" and bought a 550lb sls hoping that'll put me in the ballpark. Hoping I don't have to swap too many to get it right.

    Here's to hoping pivot receives that shipment of 2020 fox suspension before they ship mine out, but in all honesty I've bikeless for going on 3 weeks post theft and I'm feigning hard.

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    The little tube/CO2 holder works pretty well. At least it didn't make any noises or fell off during two the last two rides .

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-sb.jpg
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    Haven't taken it out yet, been busy. But just got here.

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    I just built my medium last night. Can't wait for the maiden voyage later today. I'm glad I waited till now to pick one up because I was able to score the new Fox Factory suspension on both ends and the new Transfer drop post.

    The bike went together pretty well. I wasn't sure about the spacing for the cranks so I called Pivot. They recommended the following:

    Non-Drive side: 3 1mm spacers and 1 1.5mm spacer
    Drive side: 1 1mm spacer and 1 1.5mm spacer

    This seemed to put the chain line somewhere in the 55-58mm range.

    I plan to swap out the headset to a Chris King, the seat clamp to Wolf Tooth, and the chainring to a oval Wolf Tooth. I open to suggestions for color(s) on all three.

    I'll post more as I put some miles on it.Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1497.jpgSwitchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1496.jpgSwitchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1495.jpgSwitchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1494.jpgSwitchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1502.jpgSwitchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1499.jpgSwitchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_1501.jpg
    2019 Pivot Trail 429

  36. #36
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    That green really is growing on me.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOE2465 View Post
    I just built my medium last night. Can't wait for the maiden voyage later today. I'm glad I waited till now to pick one up because I was able to score the new Fox Factory suspension on both ends and the new Transfer drop post.

    The bike went together pretty well. I wasn't sure about the spacing for the cranks so I called Pivot. They recommended the following:

    Non-Drive side: 3 1mm spacers and 1 1.5mm spacer
    Drive side: 1 1mm spacer and 1 1.5mm spacer

    This seemed to put the chain line somewhere in the 55-58mm range.

    I plan to swap out the headset to a Chris King, the seat clamp to Wolf Tooth, and the chainring to a oval Wolf Tooth. I open to suggestions for color(s) on all three.

    I'll post more as I put some miles on it.
    Super envious my friend, I picked up my large green on sunday and didnt get the new 36 fork. Now Im just going to have to upgrade it to the new fox 36 when it's time to service instead of paying the $200 for the service. haha.
    Last edited by wmm1985; 04-24-2020 at 02:33 PM.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOE2465 View Post
    I just built my medium last night. Can't wait for the maiden voyage later today. I'm glad I waited till now to pick one up because I was able to score the new Fox Factory suspension on both ends and the new Transfer drop post.

    The bike went together pretty well. I wasn't sure about the spacing for the cranks so I called Pivot. They recommended the following:

    Non-Drive side: 3 1mm spacers and 1 1.5mm spacer
    Drive side: 1 1mm spacer and 1 1.5mm spacer

    This seemed to put the chain line somewhere in the 55-58mm range.

    I plan to swap out the headset to a Chris King, the seat clamp to Wolf Tooth, and the chainring to a oval Wolf Tooth. I open to suggestions for color(s) on all three.

    I'll post more as I put some miles on it.
    Nice bike. Re colors:

    Chris King headset - black
    Wolf Tooth seat clamp - black
    Wolf Tooth oval chainring - black

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOE2465 View Post
    I just built my medium last night. Can't wait for the maiden voyage later today. I'm glad I waited till now to pick one up because I was able to score the new Fox Factory suspension on both ends and the new Transfer drop post.

    The bike went together pretty well. I wasn't sure about the spacing for the cranks so I called Pivot. They recommended the following:

    Non-Drive side: 3 1mm spacers and 1 1.5mm spacer
    Drive side: 1 1mm spacer and 1 1.5mm spacer

    This seemed to put the chain line somewhere in the 55-58mm range.

    I plan to swap out the headset to a Chris King, the seat clamp to Wolf Tooth, and the chainring to a oval Wolf Tooth. I open to suggestions for color(s) on all three.

    I'll post more as I put some miles on it.Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks great! You ordered the entire bike? So, pivot is shipping them with all new 2021 fox shocks now? I ask because I'm about to order mine today.

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  40. #40
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    I called Pivot ahead of time to inquire about the bike specs and was told Switchblades are being shipped with 2021 Fox products. I'm not sure about other bike models. I ordered a complete XTR bike.
    2019 Pivot Trail 429

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOE2465 View Post
    I called Pivot ahead of time to inquire about the bike specs and was told Switchblades are being shipped with 2021 Fox products. I'm not sure about other bike models. I ordered a complete XTR bike.
    That's great news. I'll be ordering your exact bike setup today. Was thinking about the live valve but not sure it's worth it with this bike considering how efficient it is. Thank you.

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  42. #42
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    Hello !
    My first 29 "
    I owned before a Mach 5.5
    A bike that I managed to limit in weight to 13.1 kgs

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-pivot_1.jpg

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    I have three questions, not sure someone could answer...
    1. What is the weight of a Large Xt/Xtr with Reynolds carbon wheels or stock stocks Swiss wheels?

    2. I know it says that the Reynolds wheels are Reynolds Blacklabel Enduro Wide Trail w/ Industry Nine hub, 34mm - is the 34mm internal width or external. I went to the Reynolds website and I think they are these ones? 34mm inside 39 mm outer
    https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...rail-349-hydra

    3. Are Reynolds wheels decent? If not Reynolds, what else would you guys get? Not too many options with super boost.

    Thanks for your responses.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by pap View Post
    That's great news. I'll be ordering your exact bike setup today. Was thinking about the live valve but not sure it's worth it with this bike considering how efficient it is. Thank you.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    Mtbyumyumís video review talks about how he enjoyed the bike more without the live valve vs with it. Less muted feeling and more playful without it.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmm1985 View Post
    Mtbyumyumís video review talks about how he enjoyed the bike more without the live valve vs with it. Less muted feeling and more playful without it.
    Thank you. I'll check out the video.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bachey View Post
    I have three questions, not sure someone could answer...
    1. What is the weight of a Large Xt/Xtr with Reynolds carbon wheels or stock stocks Swiss wheels?

    2. I know it says that the Reynolds wheels are Reynolds Blacklabel Enduro Wide Trail w/ Industry Nine hub, 34mm - is the 34mm internal width or external. I went to the Reynolds website and I think they are these ones? 34mm inside 39 mm outer
    https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...rail-349-hydra

    3. Are Reynolds wheels decent? If not Reynolds, what else would you guys get? Not too many options with super boost.

    Thanks for your responses.
    2. I know it says that the Reynolds wheels are Reynolds Blacklabel Enduro Wide Trail w/ Industry Nine hub, 34mm - is the 34mm internal width or external. I went to the Reynolds website and I think they are these ones? 34mm inside 39 mm outer
    https://hayesbicycle.com/collections...rail-349-hydra

    3. Are Reynolds wheels decent? If not Reynolds, what else would you guys get? Not too many options with super boost.

    Thanks for your responses.[/QUOTE]

    Yes Black label 34mm internal width


    I've had a couple sets of Reynolds wheels. They are great quality and ride very nicely for me. I enjoy the stiffness and ride characteristics which compliments the switchblade very well. Also now that Hayes owns Reynolds they are offering a lifetime warranty. The Hydra hubs are great but the Reynolds hub shells are understated compared to he non oem shells from i9

    You won't go wrong with other wheelsets but TBH I've ridden Derby's/we are one/enve wheelsets and Reynolds is on par. I've done some questionable drops that have pinged the rim with Reynolds and they hold up very wheel in my day to day riding in the rocky Southwest

    In my opinion pivot has done a solid job specing their bike components and they all work very well in tandem.




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    Thanks for the reply InJ3cted. Just to be clear you are talking about the ďlookĒ of the outside of the hubs are nothing special compared to buying the I9 hubs say directly from Ibis? There is not a lot of distinguishing marks on the Reynolds version hubs? They are still 100% I9 hydra internally though correct?

    Thanks for the response on the Reynolds. I think Iím getting ready to pull the trigger on a new switchblade. Test rode one a few days ago and itís just so different than my current ride. Hard to compare.

    Do you happen to have a weight for your green bike.. nice bike by the way.
    Thanks again,
    Don

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    Quote Originally Posted by bachey View Post
    Thanks for the reply InJ3cted. Just to be clear you are talking about the ďlookĒ of the outside of the hubs are nothing special compared to buying the I9 hubs say directly from Ibis? There is not a lot of distinguishing marks on the Reynolds version hubs? They are still 100% I9 hydra internally though correct?

    Thanks for the response on the Reynolds. I think Iím getting ready to pull the trigger on a new switchblade. Test rode one a few days ago and itís just so different than my current ride. Hard to compare.

    Do you happen to have a weight for your green bike.. nice bike by the way.
    Thanks again,
    Don
    Haha man you opened a can of worms. I did some searching and can't say 100% they sound like hydras I have torches next to it and they're definitely different sounding. I dropped pivot support a note to ask because it's not completely clear.

    Maybe someone else here can confirm

    I have a team xtr medium and I didn't weigh it



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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by InJ3cted View Post
    Haha man you opened a can of worms. I did some searching and can't say 100% they sound like hydras I have torches next to it and they're definitely different sounding. I dropped pivot support a note to ask because it's not completely clear.

    Maybe someone else here can confirm

    I have a team xtr medium and I didn't weigh it



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    coming from torches. These def have more engagement buzz. My lbs told me they were hydras :shrug: The exterior hub body doesnít look the same as i9ís hydras though. The factory i9ís hubs look cooler.

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    Quote Originally Posted by InJ3cted View Post
    Haha man you opened a can of worms. I did some searching and can't say 100% they sound like hydras I have torches next to it and they're definitely different sounding. I dropped pivot support a note to ask because it's not completely clear.

    Maybe someone else here can confirm

    I have a team xtr medium and I didn't weigh it



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    A tell tale would be to pull the rear wheel off then you can slide the cassette off with the freehub without a tool. That would be the Hydra.

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    Thanks for the responses guys. Hmmm, I do know that torches and hydras sound very different. I guess if it has crazy amounts of engagement it would have to be some form of a hydra. One would hope they wouldnít use an lesser internal hydra (if thatís even possible).
    To bad one couldnít get a coloured ďlegitĒ hydra as an option on the wheels.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pap View Post
    A tell tale would be to pull the rear wheel off then you can slide the cassette off with the freehub without a tool. That would be the Hydra.

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    Good call, They look like hydras with the smaller groves and the driver has the new leaf springs vs those micro springs.

    Excuse the dust




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    Quote Originally Posted by InJ3cted View Post
    Good call, They look like hydras with the smaller groves and the driver has the new leaf springs vs those micro springs.

    Excuse the dust




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    That is certainly Hydra! Enjoy.

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    Thanks so much for doing that. Awesome.

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    How tall are you guys on the mediums and larges? Pulling the trigger on one today and on the fence as to which size to get. I'm right at 5'9.5.
    It's Better To Die On Your Feet Than To Live On Your Knees. (Emiliano Zapata)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric B View Post
    How tall are you guys on the mediums and larges? Pulling the trigger on one today and on the fence as to which size to get. I'm right at 5'9.5.
    Iím 6í0Ē on a large and sat on a medium because the pivot large felt larger than my Santa Cruz Hightower large. I know some pros like Matt walker ride medium and they are 6 foot.

    I like the large, if I was a few inches shorter Iíd probably size down to a medium.

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    Iím 5í10Ē and wear 30Ē length jeans and tested a large. Seemed pretty good to me and personally I wouldnít want to go smaller. However, I donít own the bike, so take it for what itís worth.

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    I'm 5'10" and had a large v1 switchblade. Thought about sizing down for the v2 switchblade but I didn't like the feel of it in the parking lot compared to the large. Went with the large and it feels good out on the trail.

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    5í11, 35in inseam, so long legs, very short torso. Large with a 32mm stem.


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  60. #60
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    https://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?

    Industry Nine Carbon Super Boost Wheel for cheap

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    Jealous of those who got the 2021 Fox stuff! I received my XL Blue 2 weeks ago and unfortunately got the old fork. Am I correct in thinking the shock is the same aside from the stickers?

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    A little help, Iím looking at a large pro build with carbon wheels. Iím not a weight weenie, but is there a way to get this bike under 30 lbs. maybe in the 29 range. From what I have seen, a team build (highest end) is weighing in around 30.5 lbs.

    the only thing thatís left would be crankset, chain, cassette I imagine. Everything else is carbon. And tires.
    Any thoughts on how to get weight down already with the carbon wheels?

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by bachey View Post
    A little help, Iím looking at a large pro build with carbon wheels. Iím not a weight weenie, but is there a way to get this bike under 30 lbs. maybe in the 29 range. From what I have seen, a team build (highest end) is weighing in around 30.5 lbs.

    the only thing thatís left would be crankset, chain, cassette I imagine. Everything else is carbon. And tires.
    Any thoughts on how to get weight down already with the carbon wheels?
    Wheels, tires, and cranks.

    Wheels - The black labels are light, but you can do a custom set that are lighter (and more expensive, and probably less bombproof). I did i9's laced to E13 TRS Race SL's, and they've been pretty good for 18mos now (ran them on my Trail429 last year).

    Tires - I ditched the Minions that we spec for some Schwalbes that work well here in New England (Hans Dampf F, Nobby Nic R).

    Cranks - Assuming you're talking about the Pro XT/XTR kit with the alloy cranks, you can get some RF NEXT SL's that will save you almost 200g.

    I made all of these changes to my build. The wheels/tires saved 500g (over AL rims), and the cranks saved another 200g. 700g is 1.54 lbs.

    Obviously, there are trade-offs here, mostly in the form of strength and price. I ride pretty 'light', so the wheels have held up fine, and I've only gotten a couple of pinch flats on those light casing tires over the course of a 18mos. I'm also doing fine on my NEXT SL cranks that are 3 years old (knocking on wood as I type), though I have heard of others breaking them.

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    Thanks JP. Thanks for confirming those are the spots to save some weight. Yeah, cranks and tires I see as my only options if I decide to buy the bike. I think I will leave the Reynolds rims as Iím not a featherlight. The easiest thing to save some weight I guess would be if I lost some. But thatís the easy answer. Also much less expensive answer.

    I took a large out for a rip, short one, and I liked it. Just so hard to compare to what I am used to which is a 2016 giant trance advanced with carbon rims and 27.5Ē tires. The geometry is different, I sit on the trance and in the switchblade. The switchblade feels heavier donít know actual pound differences. Iím a chunky monkey and my bike does feel flexy but not the switchblade.
    The other hard part is the $$$. There is nothing really wrong with my bike and so spending close to $10,000 Canadian on a pedal bike seems absurd. I know pivot is a good brand and it is quality, but Iím questioning the $$$ as well. I mean I can justify my health is important and all that...but I got a bike that so far has held up and keeps me going. So do I need a new one? Uh, I kind of want one, but donít need one. Common sense isnít helping me right now.

  65. #65
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    If youíre not in perfect physical shape and racing competitively, why is a few pounds of bike weight important?

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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Tires - I ditched the Minions that we spec for some Schwalbes that work well here in New England (Hans Dampf F, Dirty Dan R).
    JP
    Thats a strange combo, Dirty Dan is a mud tire... at list i would mount them the opposite way, if not taking it down and change it to Magic Mary (F) / Hans Dapmf (R).

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    Quote Originally Posted by itsky View Post
    If youíre not in perfect physical shape and racing competitively, why is a few pounds of bike weight important?
    Yeah, you got a point there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bachey View Post
    Yeah, you got a point there.
    No, he doesn't really. What, do we now need to meet some silly metric like BMI before we're allowed to upgrade our bikes?

    If you have the cash, want to upgrade your bike and it makes you happy I say go for it regardless of how much you weigh or what kind of shape you are in.

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    Also true. Okay, well, I feel bad for derailing this thread about my weight, so letís feel free to get back to talking about tech about switchblade
    Iím going to take the bike at my shop out for one more ride just to confirm that itís the one bike for me.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddy-Runs View Post
    Thats a strange combo, Dirty Dan is a mud tire... at list i would mount them the opposite way, if not taking it down and change it to Magic Mary (F) / Hans Dapmf (R).
    Whoops... meant to say Nobby Nic on the rear (went back and fixed it). All of Schwalbe's alliterative names get mixed up in my head. Haha
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  71. #71
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    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by itsky View Post
    If youíre not in perfect physical shape and racing competitively, why is a few pounds of bike weight important?
    Because Iím heavy I need to buy expensive parts because my body morphology puts me at an disadvantage

    Personally, I feel us clydes that ride often donít have much info made available to us.

    The SB is stiff. At first I felt V1 was stiffer, but now I feel the current gen frame is stiffer. Rock gardens are much easier to transverse.

    Iím thinking of getting the Fox 38. Not because I can send it but once again, in the tech, stiffness inspires confidence.

    The bike is heavy. Iím not afraid of it breaking like so many of my past bikes. The bike is fun. So.....

    157 boost has meant less wheel rebuilds, and it does feel stiffer to me.

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  72. #72
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    Any luck with the cable slap problem inside the DT? Did the Shimano housing fix it? Its pretty loud.

    Thanks
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  73. #73
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    I bought the SB in Large Blue. You can read my demo report on the other SB thread in the Pivot forum. Feel like it is more robust bike like Dr Don mentioned.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spine Shank View Post
    Any luck with the cable slap problem inside the DT? Did the Shimano housing fix it? Its pretty loud.

    Thanks
    I haven't heard of this issue. A couple things to check:
    1. Make sure your cable housing and brake hose are under tension and secure via the cable port covers. Tighten one end down, pull it taught, and tighten the other end down. If the hose or housing can pull loose easily, wrap a little electrical tape around the housing where it's clamped down by the cable port cover, and this will secure it. Once that hose and housing are under tension, there won't be any way for it to rattle around in there.
    2. Make sure the cable rattle you're hearing aren't 2 cables slapping together in front of your cockpit. I spent the better part of a month trying to silence cable rattle that I thought was coming from inside my bike until I realized it was my front brake cable rattling against my dropper cable.

    Best of luck,
    JP
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spine Shank View Post
    Any luck with the cable slap problem inside the DT? Did the Shimano housing fix it? Its pretty loud.

    Thanks
    I have the same issue.. I just put some tape around the housing and cinched it down. Little annoying

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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    I haven't heard of this issue. A couple things to check:
    1. Make sure your cable housing and brake hose are under tension and secure via the cable port covers. Tighten one end down, pull it taught, and tighten the other end down. If the hose or housing can pull loose easily, wrap a little electrical tape around the housing where it's clamped down by the cable port cover, and this will secure it. Once that hose and housing are under tension, there won't be any way for it to rattle around in there.
    2. Make sure the cable rattle you're hearing aren't 2 cables slapping together in front of your cockpit. I spent the better part of a month trying to silence cable rattle that I thought was coming from inside my bike until I realized it was my front brake cable rattling against my dropper cable.

    Best of luck,
    JP
    Both my Switchblades had this issue with noise from the cables. Both times it was the seat post cables only.
    What fixed it now was to switch to a slightly thicker cable housing (5mm instead of 4mm) so that the cable port cover can actually hold it in place. Look for Shimano SIS-SP51.

    Would be nice if Pivot could do this from the beginning..
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  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by bliz2z View Post
    Both my Switchblades had this issue with noise from the cables. Both times it was the seat post cables only.
    What fixed it now was to switch to a slightly thicker cable housing (5mm instead of 4mm) so that the cable port cover can actually hold it in place. Look for Shimano SIS-SP51.

    Would be nice if Pivot could do this from the beginning..
    My Switchblade did the same. I used a little electrical tape to so I could tighten it down on the cable, now it is silent. I understand that now the upper cable port clamp comes with a piece of rubber to help solve this issue. I don't think it is something that happens on all bikes, but now the clamp comes with a solution, so people won't have the same issue.
    "The face of a child can say it all, especially the mouth part of the face".
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan23 View Post
    My Switchblade did the same. I used a little electrical tape to so I could tighten it down on the cable, now it is silent. I understand that now the upper cable port clamp comes with a piece of rubber to help solve this issue. I don't think it is something that happens on all bikes, but now the clamp comes with a solution, so people won't have the same issue.
    Good to know that Pivot addressed the issue now.
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  80. #80
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    Sunday riding, treeline green fits right in with the

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  81. #81
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    Amazing picture! 👍
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  82. #82
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    Switchblade in action in the French Basque country

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Dd32yaoqW0&t=

  83. #83
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    Dang, I didn't know what that rubber was for! I'll have to look for it. Hahaha. I bought a medium. I'm 5'11 with a 30" inseam. It fits great. Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-916c3fe9-96a0-477b-b99e-9ba142403ebc.jpeg
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan23 View Post
    My Switchblade did the same. I used a little electrical tape to so I could tighten it down on the cable, now it is silent. I understand that now the upper cable port clamp comes with a piece of rubber to help solve this issue. I don't think it is something that happens on all bikes, but now the clamp comes with a solution, so people won't have the same issue.
    I just built mine and can confirm this is true.

    And I think someone asked about weight... medium Team XTR build with no changes other than Candy pedals... 30.5 lbs.

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  85. #85
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    Thanks for the replies

    Thank you for all the replies. All of them make sense, and I have tried them all. Pretty much saying the same thing anyways. I have them tight at the cable cover ports, but still they, (or it) still rattles. I agree that it seems to be the Jagwire seat cable clamp as the main culprit. No big deal. Turn the head phones up louder. Seriously, the bike performs so well for me, I hardly notice it anymore. I did buy the Jagwire silencer roll/insulator. I have not installed it yet as to do it properly, you would need to disconnect the cable and run the housing through it. I'll do when I replace the housing in a few weeks/months. To busy riding this thing to care honestly.

    Thanks again though for the support.



    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    I haven't heard of this issue. A couple things to check:
    1. Make sure your cable housing and brake hose are under tension and secure via the cable port covers. Tighten one end down, pull it taught, and tighten the other end down. If the hose or housing can pull loose easily, wrap a little electrical tape around the housing where it's clamped down by the cable port cover, and this will secure it. Once that hose and housing are under tension, there won't be any way for it to rattle around in there.
    2. Make sure the cable rattle you're hearing aren't 2 cables slapping together in front of your cockpit. I spent the better part of a month trying to silence cable rattle that I thought was coming from inside my bike until I realized it was my front brake cable rattling against my dropper cable.

    Best of luck,
    JP
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  86. #86
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    Hey folks !
    Im looking for a L frame only in green. Pivot is saying none available until late August. Is anyone looking to size up or down and looking to sell a frame ?
    Thanks for your time.

  87. #87
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    Tuned in.

  88. #88
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    This is a Pivot Switchblade swiss custom project.
    Weight is exactly 28lbs with pedals in size S.

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-1795d30d-04f6-4abd-9721-c7879441e098.jpg

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-1084f1f5-6151-4d33-a52c-d19ec6d365a4.jpg

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-59f9fd99-3768-4f6c-bbe3-5225276d5e0c.jpg

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-f3c75d38-77de-406e-9ebc-ad4c1b3e1edb.jpg

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-7fbe5c7c-c0eb-4c7f-8374-a494b8744a7c.jpg

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-40f63d51-4284-4df0-8d66-a00ec32d50a6.jpg

  89. #89
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    That's good weight considering the Fox 36 and heavy rims.

  90. #90
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    Just picked up my 2020 SB and super stoked. Just trying to get the suspension all set up.
    I am 238 lbs fully kitted and started with the following settings...let me know if this sounds about right.
    Fork
    105 psi sag is close -ish
    Compresssion HSC 5 clicks out LSC 10 clicks out (only one option in fox set up guide)
    Rebound HSR 2 click out. LSR 3 clicks out.
    I think this is okay.

    Rear shock
    283 psi to get sag
    Open all the way
    3 mm hex nut compression ??? No idea. Recommendations?

    Rebound
    3 clicks out

    Does all this sound right-ish? Any recommendations on the 3 mm hex nut compression?

    Thanks

  91. #91
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    Iím about the same weight. Extra spacer in the rear shock, 280lb, open, rebound more or less in the middle.

    Fork, extra spacer, 90lb, hi/lo compression middlish. Got sick of futzing with it and put my old Avy cart in it.


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  92. #92
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    Anyone know the weight difference between the stock DT Swiss wheels and the Reynolds Carbon upgrade?

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark194 View Post
    Anyone know the weight difference between the stock DT Swiss wheels and the Reynolds Carbon upgrade?
    Based on my research, somewhere between nothing and not very much. Reynolds might be a tenth of a pound heavier.

  94. #94
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    that makes my choice to stick with Alu easier! Thank you

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clyde Ride View Post
    Based on my research, somewhere between nothing and not very much. Reynolds might be a tenth of a pound heavier.
    If you're looking at the DT M1700- Weight in 29" is 1,915g for 30mm rims.
    The Reynolds Black Labels are 4mm wider and weigh 1,755g (160g less)

    So:
    1. .35lbs less.
    2. Faster Engagement
    3. Stiffer
    4. Wider
    5. Made in the USA hubs.
    6. Bling

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtrpickels View Post
    If you're looking at the DT M1700- Weight in 29" is 1,915g for 30mm rims.
    The Reynolds Black Labels are 4mm wider and weigh 1,755g (160g less)

    So:
    1. .35lbs less.
    2. Faster Engagement
    3. Stiffer
    4. Wider
    5. Made in the USA hubs.
    6. Bling
    Yeah, you're right on the weight... I had some bad data stuck in my head. Still... a lot of dough. I like some of the other reasons (engagement, stiffer) more than the weight reason.

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    Has anyone purchased in a 27.5 configuration? Or Demoed it? I'm curious what the ride is like. Thanks,

  98. #98
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    Here's mine:
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  99. #99
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    Thanks for the info guys! I think I'm going with the Pro X01 build. Might update the wheels later. Looking at the individual parts spec, the SRAM stuff looks lighter! Just teh brakes alone are -250g lighter

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    Yup, I'm also going with the Pro X01 build, going to go ahead and fork over the $$ for the wheels too. I'll probably end up getting a set of 27.5 to experiment with down the road when I see a good deal. Too bad they stuck the GX cassette on that build. No idea why they'd do that.

  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmoses View Post
    Yup, I'm also going with the Pro X01 build, going to go ahead and fork over the $$ for the wheels too. I'll probably end up getting a set of 27.5 to experiment with down the road when I see a good deal. Too bad they stuck the GX cassette on that build. No idea why they'd do that.
    I saw that, its a heavy cassette to... But 350 for a new one, ouch

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Here's mine:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice! loving that green

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clyde Ride View Post
    Yeah, you're right on the weight... I had some bad data stuck in my head. Still... a lot of dough. I like some of the other reasons (engagement, stiffer) more than the weight reason.
    I'd agree that weight is likely 3rd on the list of improvements.
    The up charge is $700? less than you'd pay if you bought the Blacklabels separately, which is about the value of the DT Wheels.

    I went with the DT wheels on my PRO XTR Build.
    Hopefully shipping next week...

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtrpickels View Post
    I'd agree that weight is likely 3rd on the list of improvements.
    The up charge is $700? less than you'd pay if you bought the Blacklabels separately, which is about the value of the DT Wheels.

    I went with the DT wheels on my PRO XTR Build.
    Hopefully shipping next week...
    Same build here... Pro XT/XTR 29 with the DT Swiss wheels, but I'm going to have an Onyx/WeR1 Union wheel set built up too. I'll keep the stock wheels as spares.

    The upcharge for the Reynolds wheels is $1300. It's a solid option... you're not getting screwed, but you're not stealing them either.

  105. #105
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    Sorry for the dumb question here - when changing to an oval chainring (say OneUp) do I choose the Super Boost or regular Boost? I'm aware the bike is super boost spacing, but can't figure out with the crank spacers whether the boost chain ing is already sufficiently spaced. Loving the switchblade, but need some more climbing prowess with the oval. Think I will keep it at 32T to keep the same chain length. Riding in and around the Rockies of Alberta and BC
    Last edited by rocky_mtn18; 2 Weeks Ago at 12:47 PM.

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky_mtn18 View Post
    Sorry for the dumb question here - when changing to an oval chainring? (Say OneUp) do I choose the Super Boost or regular Boost. I'm aware the bike is super boost spacing, but can't figure out with the crank spacers whether the boost chaining is already sufficiently spaced. Loving the switchblade, but need some more climbing prowess with the oval. Think I will keep it at 32T to keep the same chain length. Riding in and around the Rockies of Alberta and BC
    I think it matters which cranks you're using. With my Race Face Next R cranks, I've been using Boost rings. But if you message Pivot on their site, they're super responsive and helpful. I've asked exactly that question, and they'll confirm which ring and spacers you need.

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clyde Ride View Post
    I think it matters which cranks you're using. With my Race Face Next R cranks, I've been using Boost rings. But if you message Pivot on their site, they're super responsive and helpful. I've asked exactly that question, and they'll confirm which ring and spacers you need.
    It might depend on the cranks, but with the Affect R cranks, it's a wide spindle so you need a regular Boost chainring. Absolute Black suggest flipping the chainring for superboost, but this is presuming a regular chainset. So, with the wider chainset fitted by pivot you use a regular boost oval chainring installed the "normal" way round.

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by samunderhill View Post
    It might depend on the cranks, but with the Affect R cranks, it's a wide spindle so you need a regular Boost chainring. Absolute Black suggest flipping the chainring for superboost, but this is presuming a regular chainset. So, with the wider chainset fitted by pivot you use a regular boost oval chainring installed the "normal" way round.
    Thanks for the information - I also have the Aeffect R Cranks!

  109. #109
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    Could use some advice on sizing - Iím 5í11Ē (maaaaybe 5 feet 11 and 1/2 inches...), so right on the cusp between medium and large. Anyone my height have any advice? Iím thinking large but not 100% sure. Thanks for any thoughts.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvrpl View Post
    Could use some advice on sizing - Iím 5í11Ē (maaaaybe 5 feet 11 and 1/2 inches...), so right on the cusp between medium and large. Anyone my height have any advice? Iím thinking large but not 100% sure. Thanks for any thoughts.
    What are you riding right now?

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clyde Ride View Post
    What are you riding right now?
    A new-gen (2019) Stumpjumper in a large.

  112. #112
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    Without knowing anything else, I'd say that you and I are the same height and I am very happy with my large.

    I ran it with the 50mm stem it ships with, then ran a 60mm which also felt good, but after going back to the 50mm today it's going to stay on.
    Last edited by xtrpickels; 1 Week Ago at 08:32 AM.

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtrpickels View Post
    Without knowing anything else, I'd say that you and I are the height and I am very happy with my large.

    I ran it with the 50mm stem it ships with, then ran a 60mm which also felt good, but after going back to the 50mm today it's going to stay on.
    I'm 5'11" as well, and riding a large. Wouldn't think about a Medium, personally. I swapped to a 60mm stem, which works well for me.

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvrpl View Post
    Could use some advice on sizing - Iím 5í11Ē (maaaaybe 5 feet 11 and 1/2 inches...), so right on the cusp between medium and large. Anyone my height have any advice? Iím thinking large but not 100% sure. Thanks for any thoughts.
    Lots of time people think they should "downsize" because in the 90s, large frames had crazy high top tubes, crazy long head tubes with the bars jacked way up high, you couldn't lower your CG or get enough behind the bike because dropper posts didn't exist, and stems shorter than 100mm were rare, if available. Basically, you started to take a big hit on maneuverability and other aspects if you went bigger, vs if you went smaller you could use a longer seatpost and stem, cramping your riding, but possibly the lesser of two evils.

    They used to (feverishly) claim that "you can make small bike bigger, but you can't make a large bike smaller". That's not really true though with the shorter stems and moving your seat forward/zero offset. You can definitely make a larger frame smaller, especially if you are "in between" sizes.

    These days, you don't take a giant hit on the maneuverability with a bigger frame, they make short stems like 35mm (even zero), almost every single frame has good top tube clearance, and so on. I'm about the exact same size and the only time I'd consider downsizing (consider, not necessarily go forward) is a bike that will be ridden downhill exclusively, like a full DH bike. Otherwise, you are spending 90% of the time not descending and spending most of the time cramped up on a too-small bike is just not fun in the long run. It makes the bike a pain to ride. I've made that mistake a few times. Still, I see a lot of resistance to "upsizing" when in-between. For me, it's a no-brainer now. I think you need to be real with yourself and where you spend the majority of the time riding. It's not downhill AND the smaller frame doesn't give you a huge difference in downhill handling like in the 90s.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Lots of time people think they should "downsize" because in the 90s, large frames had crazy high top tubes, crazy long head tubes with the bars jacked way up high, you couldn't lower your CG or get enough behind the bike because dropper posts didn't exist, and stems shorter than 100mm were rare, if available. Basically, you started to take a big hit on maneuverability and other aspects if you went bigger, vs if you went smaller you could use a longer seatpost and stem, cramping your riding, but possibly the lesser of two evils.

    They used to (feverishly) claim that "you can make small bike bigger, but you can't make a large bike smaller". That's not really true though with the shorter stems and moving your seat forward/zero offset. You can definitely make a larger frame smaller, especially if you are "in between" sizes.

    These days, you don't take a giant hit on the maneuverability with a bigger frame, they make short stems like 35mm (even zero), almost every single frame has good top tube clearance, and so on. I'm about the exact same size and the only time I'd consider downsizing (consider, not necessarily go forward) is a bike that will be ridden downhill exclusively, like a full DH bike. Otherwise, you are spending 90% of the time not descending and spending most of the time cramped up on a too-small bike is just not fun in the long run. It makes the bike a pain to ride. I've made that mistake a few times. Still, I see a lot of resistance to "upsizing" when in-between. For me, it's a no-brainer now. I think you need to be real with yourself and where you spend the majority of the time riding. It's not downhill AND the smaller frame doesn't give you a huge difference in downhill handling like in the 90s.
    Thanks, this is super helpful. Any thoughts on the claims that the smaller bike will be significantly more maneuverable on tight/twisty terrain (I live in the northeast, so lots of rocky and roots stuff and tight twisties arenít unusual) and that the smaller bike is so much more ďplayfulĒ? In relative terms, Iím sure the smaller bike is more poppy, but is it crazy to think the larger has still got some fun poppiness to it?

  116. #116
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    Hi All - any carbon experts out there? I'm devastated after my Switchblade came off my Thule T2 rack last week - only to be held by the rear wheel safety strap. Thule is completely unhelpful and calls it user error, but the ratcheting system on the swing arm has to of let go when I hit a "whoop" in the road.

    The main damage is a spot on the top tube right near the front. The coin test yields a slightly different sound when tapping the effected area, however, it does not feel noticeably soft. The second damage is a chip on the side of the frame. I've contacted Pivot, but appreciate any thoughts. I'm at a loss as I saved hard for this bike, but fear the worst.

    Pictures below:




    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-image2.jpg  

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-image4.jpg  

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-image0.jpg  


  117. #117
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    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by lvrpl View Post
    Could use some advice on sizing - Iím 5í11Ē (maaaaybe 5 feet 11 and 1/2 inches...), so right on the cusp between medium and large. Anyone my height have any advice? Iím thinking large but not 100% sure. Thanks for any thoughts.
    Iím 5í11Ē and prefer smaller feeling bikes. But I found out I have a very long inseam. Iím on a large with a 32mm stem. My friend is 6í2Ē with a short inseam and rides my back up. Stem is about 40mm and my 175 dropper wonít work for him. I spent years not knowing where I was at on the bell curve. Unfortunately many shops, especially mountain bike oriented ones, know little about fit. They donít even stock different sized stems for demos and fit sessions. I recently got out the tape measure and had to shorten the stem on my 429T because I assumed I had the correct length based on published geometry numbers. The STA threw me off.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky_mtn18 View Post
    Hi All - any carbon experts out there? I'm devastated after my Switchblade came off my Thule T2 rack last week - only to be held by the rear wheel safety strap. Thule is completely unhelpful and calls it user error, but the ratcheting system on the swing arm has to of let go when I hit a "whoop" in the road.

    The main damage is a spot on the top tube right near the front. The coin test yields a slightly different sound when tapping the effected area, however, it does not feel noticeably soft. The second damage is a chip on the side of the frame. I've contacted Pivot, but appreciate any thoughts. I'm at a loss as I saved hard for this bike, but fear the worst.

    Pictures below:




    To me that looks all cosmetic. Living and riding in the SW, rock chips are part of riding and I have worse ones than that on my carbon wheels and a dinger bigger than that on my SB frame even with Frame protection wrap on most of my bike. I moved away from those style racks for this very reason and never had an issue with my 1up

    I'd be curious to what pivot said but usually Unless it's cracked it's just cosmetic. The difference in sound could very well be because pivot utilizes material differently in different areas



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  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtt64 View Post
    Hello !
    My first 29 "
    I owned before a Mach 5.5
    A bike that I managed to limit in weight to 13.1 kgs

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'd love to hear how you like the SB coming from the 5.5 (which I also have). The SB would also be my first 29er. Also, did you stay with the same size frame when getting the SB?

  120. #120
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    Some Updates:

    1. Tires: My Switchblade shipped with 2.5 DHF Exo+ on Front and Rear. I immediately went 2.5 DHF Exo Front + Aggressor DC Exo Rear. This set-up was good for general riding, and would be prefered if I was a little more trail and less "enduro" on this bike.

    Next, I went Assegei MaxTerra 2.5 Exo+ Front & Dissector Maxxterra 2.5 Exo+ Rear. Assegei is very similar to DHR in terms of feel. In general a little less vague at times than DHF, but it did slide a touch before gripping last night on loose over hard (Although this may be related to the extended headset cup noted in #2 below). Dissector rolls with noticeably more buzz than Aggressor, but has better braking traction and similar to slightly improvement climbing traction. My Uphill times are very similar between the two set-ups. Additionally, I like the slightly more damp ride from the Exo+ casing. They feel like they track the ground better and have a bit less rebound compared to the EXO casing.

    2. I added the 17mm lower cup to my 29er. It did not profoundly change the feeling as much as I thought it would. HTA comes in about 65.2 degrees with it installed. It might be a little more stable, and it might be little less quick, but it wasn't profound after 1 ride. I'm going to give it a few more rides, focusing on steeper and looser. If I don't see a big difference, I may go back to the normal cup. If you're mostly on twistier trails, I'd stay with the stock set-up. If you're mostly high speed, chundery, or drops into chunky terrain then I can see trying out the 17mm lower up.

    3. I have 24h i9 Enduro 315c wheels on order. I'm interested to see how the bike responds with a lighter wheelset.

    4. The Wolftooth B-Rad Rolltop bag attaches perfect to the top-tube mounts and holds a pump, Stans darts, Tubulito Tube and Fix-it sticks with lots of room to spare.
    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...d-roll-top-bag
    Last edited by xtrpickels; 2 Days Ago at 11:17 AM.

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtrpickels View Post
    Some Updates:

    1. Tires: My Switchblade shipped with 2.5 DHF Exo+ on Front and Rear. I immediately went 2.5 DHF Exo Front + Aggressor DC Exo Rear. This set-up was good for general riding, and would be prefered if I was a little more trail and less "enduro" on this bike.

    Next, I went Assegei MaxTerra 2.5 Exo+ Front & Dissector Maxxterra 2.5 Exo+ Rear. Assegei is very similar to DHR in terms of feel. In general a little less vague at times than DHF, but it did slide a touch before gripping last night on loose over hard. Dissector rolls with noticeably more buzz than Aggressor, but has better braking traction and similar to slightly improvement climbing traction. My Uphill times are very similar between the two set-ups. Additionally, I like the slighty more damp ride from the Exo+ casing. They feel like they track the ground better and have a bit less rebound compared to the EXO casing.

    2. I added the 17mm lower cup to my 29er. It did not profoundly change the feeling as much as I thought it would. HTA comes in about 64.5 degrees with it installed. It might be a little more stable, and it might be little less quick, but it wasn't profound after 1 ride. I'm going to give it a few more rides, focusing on steeper and looser. If I don't see a big difference, I may go back to the normal cup. If you're mostly on twistier trails, I'd stay with the stock set-up. If you're mostly high speed, chundery, or drops into chunky terrain then I can see trying out the 17mm lower up.

    3. I have 24h i9 Enduro 315c wheels on order. I'm interested to see how the bike responds with a lighter wheelset.

    4. The Wolftooth B-Rad Rolltop bag attaches perfect to the top-tube mounts and holds a pump, Stans darts, Tubulito Tube and Fix-it sticks with lots of room to spare.
    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...d-roll-top-bag
    Cool. Can you show us a picture of the installed B-Rad Rolltop bag? I guess you used the 1.1L version?
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  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by bliz2z View Post
    Cool. Can you show us a picture of the installed B-Rad Rolltop bag? I guess you used the 1.1L version?
    I was about to ask the same thing - if not too much trouble, it would be awesome.

  123. #123
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    Stock HTA is 66 degrees in the low setting. I'm curious how it changed 1.5 degrees to 64.5 after adding the 17mm cup. That seems huge! On the v1 Switchblade, adding the 17mm cup only slacked it out .5 degrees.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by bliz2z View Post
    Cool. Can you show us a picture of the installed B-Rad Rolltop bag? I guess you used the 1.1L version?
    Yep. 1.1L
    Could roll down lower / tighter, if not for the pump.
    Also, Does not need to be attached over the top tube. I did that for extra security and the frame has RideWrap, so I'm not worried about damage.

    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_20200804_172054.jpg
    Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk-img_20200804_172123.jpg

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phlegm420 View Post
    Stock HTA is 66 degrees in the low setting. I'm curious how it changed 1.5 degrees to 64.5 after adding the 17mm cup. That seems huge! On the v1 Switchblade, adding the 17mm cup only slacked it out .5 degrees.
    Rechecked yesterday and got 65.2 which is fairly in line with the assumption that 20mm = 1deg change.

    Will update original post

  126. #126
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    Just a quick question for ya guys who are familiar with the pivot SB...is there a national dealer for pivot. I'm finding a hard time finding a dealer in my area that has a good pivot presence. Most dealers in my area may be a "dealer" but dont have demos or barely have stock of pivot bikes. Any help would be appreciated

  127. #127
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    BackCountry.com / Competitive Cyclist are National Online Retailers, but that doesn't help with Demo's.

    I was fortunate that Sports Garage here in Boulder was well-stocked with demos and super knowledgeable.

  128. #128
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    Anyone have an opinion on internal wheel width? I see that the stock alloy wheels are 30mm wide but the Reynolds upgrade carbons are 34mm. How differently do these two widths ride? Iím getting a different pair of carbon wheels and trying to decide what width to go with. Thanks for any thoughts.

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvrpl View Post
    Anyone have an opinion on internal wheel width? I see that the stock alloy wheels are 30mm wide but the Reynolds upgrade carbons are 34mm. How differently do these two widths ride? Iím getting a different pair of carbon wheels and trying to decide what width to go with. Thanks for any thoughts.
    Depends on the tyre size you want to run. For 2.4-2.5 tires 30mm inner is the sweet spot imo.
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  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by bliz2z View Post
    Depends on the tyre size you want to run. For 2.4-2.5 tires 30mm inner is the sweet spot imo.
    How about if I may got up to 2.6 also? So realistic range would be 2.4-2.6 tires. Still go 30mm?

  131. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvrpl View Post
    How about if I may got up to 2.6 also? So realistic range would be 2.4-2.6 tires. Still go 30mm?
    If you like it wide go with the 34mm inner and 2.6 tires. All depends on what trails you ride and personal preference .
    And yes you can still run 2.6 tires with 30mm inner.
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