Creak....creak....creak.... pedaling an M6 out of the saddle- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    486

    Creak....creak....creak.... pedaling an M6 out of the saddle

    I've had my M6 since April and it has developed a creak when I pedal out of the saddle. I sometimes hear it when I pedal seated, but it usually occurs when I apply a higher amount of pressure to the pedals. Does anyone know how to make it go away?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    6,018
    First step is to liberally grease the rear through axle. 95% of the time this takes care of it. Next would be to check torque and lube the threads on the RD hangar. If that doesn't fix it, pull the BB, clean and use white plumbers tape on the threads when reinstalling.

  3. #3
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    6,430
    Could be from a dozen differnt sources not related to the frame.

    If you did isolate it to the frame, the rear shock mount has a tendency to creak. I've found this to be very reproduceable by pushing/pulling on the shock mount and listening for the creak.

    My rear shock mount was creaky. I tried the taping method along with greasing and tightening the shock mounting bolt. Fixed the creak but saw the taped worked itself out over time.

    Recently, I put an air spacer in the shock so had to take it apart and found all the tape had disintegrated and probably was doing very little. I simply greased all interfaces and reassembled and its been silent.

    Aside from chain slap, I've found this to be an otherwise quite frame.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    759
    I had a creak that sounded like it was coming from the rear shock mount. Was fortunate enough to be at a demo site for Pivot in June and they took care of it. Took the mount off, greased it up real good, and tightened the mount. They have changed the measurements for how to tighten that mount. I believe it went up from 12nm to 24nm.

    No tape fix, just liberal mounts of grease and cranking the bolt down. Has not squeaked since. I had the same squeak when I mashed the pedals. Give that a try.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    553
    Check your pedals too. I spent 45 minutes tracking down one this weekend on my 429C and finally noticed it was the pedal.

  6. #6
    Pivotal figure
    Reputation: kenbentit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    6,361
    Yeah, we bumped up the recommended torque for the clevis bolt to 24nM. There are a lot of connecting surfaces with the clevis assembly so keeping things greased up and tight is key to a quiet bike.
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14,078
    Quote Originally Posted by aevanlloyd View Post
    Does anyone know how to make it go away?
    I had a similar issue and the info below solved it.

    Quote Originally Posted by kenbentit View Post
    Yeah, we bumped up the recommended torque for the clevis bolt to 24nM. There are a lot of connecting surfaces with the clevis assembly so keeping things greased up and tight is key to a quiet bike.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: seandm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    687
    Quote Originally Posted by aevanlloyd View Post
    I've had my M6 since April and it has developed a creak when I pedal out of the saddle. I sometimes hear it when I pedal seated, but it usually occurs when I apply a higher amount of pressure to the pedals. Does anyone know how to make it go away?
    Whats your drivetrain? if you are running a 1x11 then i would check the cassette.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    5
    Just took my first quick ride on my Pivot Mach 6 last night.
    I liked the geometry better than my previous bike the Rocky Mountain Slayer 70.
    However, 20 minutes into the ride i started to hear the Creak, Creak, Creaking.
    It's a buzz kill when your riding and thinking of how you just dropped 6 grand on a bike and it has issues out of the box. Especially since I purchased and shipped it in from Edmonton and I'm 14 hours away in Kelowna, BC.
    I hope it's not the frame or suspension pivots. I hope the issue is something easier that I can discover and resolve. I'm far from being a bike mechanic and still learning the parts of the bike. I can pump up my suspension, change tires, and other basic maintenance but that's about it.
    I will probably have to take my new Pivot into my LBS and he won't be happy that I didn't buy the Tracer T275 he was hoping to sell me since he even let me demo the aluminum 275.
    Another buzz kill was the XTR rear derailleur jumping gears all over the place. I hope this is a simple tuning issue. I was wishing I had the Sram X9 from my RM Slayer.
    My opinion of the XT breaks is undecided. The Slayer's Formula the ones do appear to have much more stopping power, but, the XT's appear to have more finesse. The Formula's have 203mm rotors front and back, so this may be an upgrade I'll have to make to the Mach 6.
    The good initial impressions:
    1)The fox suspension especially the shock is an improvement over the RM Slayer's
    RP23 shock.
    2) M6 seems faster and more agile than the RM Slayer and Tracer 275 (aluminum version)
    3) DW and Carbon seem to provide a firm, stiff platform that absorb the bumps much better than the Slayer's rear suspension

    I will use the advise above and try to identify the creaking.
    I'll have to figure out how to tune the XTR derailleur or a Sram upgrade may be in the future.

    My Mach 6:
    -Large Black with yellow logos
    -XT/XTR build
    -Canadian version comes with Stans no Tubes Arch ZTR wheel set
    -I added Maxxis HR 2's, Rock Shock 150mm stealth dropper, and Spank Pedals
    (I bought from Revolution Cycle in Edmonton and everything was 25% off for a total of $5,400 with the additions above)

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    57
    Great price. The derailleur issue is likely misaligned from shipping, easy fix, but can be finicky, I set up an XTR drivetrain on my banshee spitfire two nights ago and it took less than 5 minutes to get everything sorted, it feels better than the sram xo it replaces. As for the creaking, it could be from a series of different things, QC hopefully caught any frame defects so your best case scenario is that it's a dry bottom bracket or over torqued / under torqued bolts. If you have a torque wrench, go through the bike and tighten everything to spec. I find that putting a hint of grease near the top thread of each bolt helps ensure easy removal when the time comes.

    Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    57
    Also, just went from formula ro to xt brakes, I echo your sentiment about power

    Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    I had the annoying creak also. After removing my xt pedals and greasing the spacer on my xo1 carbon cranks the creak went away.
    2014 Pivot 429c

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    5
    Thanks Bmann and Rachid,
    I've read many creaking stories on various posts.
    It's time to take my M6 to my LBS, where unfortunately I didn't buy it.
    If I can get rid of the creaking and rear derailleur issues I think it will be a great bike.
    Took it down hilling last night for first time and wow the hype is true. No creaking going down because I wasn't peddling. Loved the suspension and XT breaks. High roller 2's are almost like glue on the dusty dry trails.
    I also set a strava PR on the climb, creaking and all! I broke my record on a trail I've ridden over a hundred times. I'm 15 lbs heavier than when I set the record last year (the beer was too good this summer) and I was concentrating more on the creaking and dis functional rear derailleur. Pretty surprised to see I set a pr. It tells me this bike is something special or my old RM slayer is a real dog.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    759
    If you didn't have any creaks going downhill, you can take the yoke creak out of the equation. Cranks/BB or pedals would be my guess. I am 230 geared up and I have 203/180 XT's and have no problems with power. Might want to upgrade to a 203 in the front if you have are having stopping issues. Love my XT brakes.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SDMTB'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    1,173

    Creak....creak....creak.... pedaling an M6 out of the saddle

    Have those suffering creaking tried loosening rear QR, greasing contact points, and then re tightening (hard)? Also usual suspects are seat post, seat rails, or chain not lubed properly. I have also had front shock creaking issues as well but the rear QR is my number one culprit especially if you have changed the rear wheel recently.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14,078
    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Have those suffering creaking tried loosening rear QR, greasing contact points, and then re tightening (hard)? Also usual suspects are seat post, seat rails, or chain not lubed properly. I have also had front shock creaking issues as well but the rear QR is my number one culprit especially if you have changed the rear wheel recently.
    Nope, but doing something to the yoke/shock interface has always resolved the issue for me so I have not looked further afield.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    5
    Follow up to my previous post- greasing & torquing the rear shock clevis bolt took care of all creaking. My mechanic said from the factory my M6 basically had no grease and the clevis bolt was almost loose.
    Anyways love the bike and Xtr/XT build. I upgraded to tubeless high roller 2 tires and 203mm rotors. Traction and stopping power in dry rocky conditions have been very good. This bike has made me about 2 minutes quicker on my local hour long climb than my previous bike. I attribute this to the 2 lb lighter carbon frame, Dw link and 27.5 wheels. Just hoping long term durability of pivot brand is good and this bike will be a winner.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1
    Having a similar problem on my M6, though I get the distinct feeling that the noise is coming from the front bolt on the rear shock, rather than the back / clevis connection. Easy to reproduce noise off the bike by holding the seatpost and pushing the top of the back wheel left and right (to simulate side loading on the suspension). No noise with straight up and down bounce and have done less than 100km on it. Took the front bolt out and greased the hell out of it then tightened back up 'by feel' (my torque wrench only goes to 13Nm, sadly) - still creaking. Will try clevis one over the weekend and report back.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SDMTB'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    1,173
    Just picked up an M6 yesterday and searched for this issue and came to this thread. Zero noise at the shop, but 5 minutes into my inaugural ride, a crap ton of creaking both on and off the saddle. Thought it could be the chain, or maybe the seat. Reached down and put my hand on the rear shock area and could feel something not right there. Tightened bolt that attaches rear shock to the black U-shaped Clevis (which then attaches to the rear triangle) and not a peep out of the bike now. The bolt is underneath the black clevis and it is silver. I could turn it about a quarter turn.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: seandm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    687
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    First step is to liberally grease the rear through axle. 95% of the time this takes care of it. Next would be to check torque and lube the threads on the RD hangar. If that doesn't fix it, pull the BB, clean and use white plumbers tape on the threads when reinstalling.
    What grease is everyone using for the rear axle. Seems no matter what i use, it sounds worse after i have been out riding for an hour. Almost as if once it gets warmed up it just rubs and rubs.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14,078
    Quote Originally Posted by seandm View Post
    What grease is everyone using for the rear axle. Seems no matter what i use, it sounds worse after i have been out riding for an hour. Almost as if once it gets warmed up it just rubs and rubs.
    I've never greased the rear axle and ride in wet conditions a lot. 100% of my squeaking has been the yoke to shock interface. It's possible the noise isn't coming from your rear axle.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: seandm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    687
    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I've never greased the rear axle and ride in wet conditions a lot. 100% of my squeaking has been the yoke to shock interface. It's possible the noise isn't coming from your rear axle.
    My bike is the pivot les, i just decided to jump on this thread as i saw that others are getting noise from the thru axle and i have already exhausted all efforts with the drive train. Even switched out the drop outs to an SS, but that uses the QR and the noise was gone.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14,078
    Quote Originally Posted by seandm View Post
    My bike is the pivot les, i just decided to jump on this thread as i saw that others are getting noise from the thru axle and i have already exhausted all efforts with the drive train. Even switched out the drop outs to an SS, but that uses the QR and the noise was gone.
    Got it. Can't be your rear suspension then.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

Similar Threads

  1. Big Top Creak?
    By Elfbkr50 in forum Yeti
    Replies: 50
    Last Post: 03-30-2014, 07:01 PM
  2. Saddle creak
    By bank5 in forum Tooltime
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-31-2013, 01:36 PM
  3. SB-66 and creak
    By trailbrain in forum Yeti
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 10-11-2012, 08:45 AM
  4. BB creak
    By riverfever in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-01-2012, 03:40 AM
  5. i-drive creak creak creak
    By slo65 in forum GT
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 04-18-2011, 07:54 AM

Members who have read this thread: 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.