Orbea Rallon 2018 Ride Review- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Orbea Rallon 2018 Ride Review

    I have just finished 3 days of riding my 2018 Rallon and I'm ready to give some feedback on how the bike performs for me.

    A little info: I'm 200 pounds full kit...water, protection, tools....and so on.
    The trails I've ridden these 3 days are typical SW USA...dry loose scree and kibble over hard with jagged sharp rocks always being present. Really loose with the past rains this summer that filter extra small rocks into the path that's normally semi smooth.

    My stats: 5'10.5" 32.5" cycling inseam with longish wingspan. 190 pounds

    Trails-Las Vegas: Bears Best / SW Ridge 44.3 miles 4,700 vertical feet climbed

    Wheel & Tire Setup: Easton ARC 30's internal with DT 350 hubs
    Front: Maxxis DHF 2.5 WT 24psi Rear: Maxxis Aggressor 2.3 exo 26psi

    Front Suspension:Fox 36 Performance 79psi with 3 tokens , Rebound 8 turns out from full Damped

    Rear Suspension: Fox DPX2 Factory 220psi with stock internals, Always ran in the open position. 5 clicks rebound from full damped and LSC 4 clicks from closed.

    So the bike is absolutely beautiful and build quality is top notch. Paint and finnish show no issues whatsoever with the complete bike looking very refined.

    I rode the bike in the Low setting the entire 3 day's...65.5 HA and 76 SA
    I have yet to ride the bike in the Lower setting 65 HA 75.5 SA

    The Frame is compliant and the rear triangle has a nice stiffness to it and I never felt any squirm or flex when changing direction and the deflection I've felt on a few frames in the past...Evil Following and Ibis Mojo 3 isn't existent. The fact that this Large Frame weighs less than most 120-130mm trail frames is a real testament to the Orbea engineer team.

    1- Pedal efficiency: I rode the Rallon always in the open mode the entire test as that gives me the best idea of how the suspension performs under power as well as how active the linkage is through bumps and hits as well as punching up features like repeated step ups and rock faces carrying momentum. Bottom bracket height is perfect and it's been awhile since I could say I had zero issues with pedal strikes or the need to ratchet excesively up features. I'd say the Rallon is a great "Lazy climber" 76 degree SA bike in that it's much more effective to seddle in the saddle and grind out your climbs spinning. The suspension is very active and although it has a bit less efficency than my SB5.5, DW link or VPP bikes I've ridden it wasn't to bad overall. The bike kept great traction in the rear and had that hovercraft feeling where as long as you applied the power when needed to get up and over obstacles while climbing the rear end wouldn't lose traction and clean the climb every time. The bike had the ideal amount of anti squat and the front end was rode nice and high in it's travel without the wandery front end that many slack bikes exhibit. I rarely climbed out of the saddle but when I did balance felt really good because the top tube and cockpit allowed me to move freely without getting hung up.

    2- Acceleration: The one thing I felt was the Rallon didn't have was the same level of acceleration as my Yeti SB5.5 The bikes kinematics aren't overly progressive nor linear but rather neutral. Stiff and racey on the power is my Yeti SB5.5 where as are a bike like the specialized Enduro feels mushy and overly plush unless your in a pedal mode on the shock. I'm sure if I would have flipped the lever on the Rallon to Trail it would firm up the platform and lay down the power much better but I ran the bike open always how it should be. Overall not bad but when your not bombing down a descent and you happen to be responsible for creating your own speed the bike is above average.

    3- Playfulness: The bottom line is all these new school LT 29'ers are getting longer and slacker regarding wheelbase and front center and for good reason...stability. That being said the size Large Rallon has a 1218mm WB but it feels much tighter and more maneuverable than the numbers. The chain stays are damn near perfect at 435mm and the bike feels really nicely balanced. I would say it's middle of the pack regarding playfulness where as if your a highly skilled rider this bike will be easy to throw around and maneuver but it's also not going to be as easy to boost and roost as say a 2017 E29. I happen to like the idea that your own trail speed will dictate in lending to make the Rallon playful for you....if pushed hard the bike will Pop and skip any way you like. I don't put a ton of effort into that style of riding unless it's true flow trail stuff.

    4- Turns and Berms: With the Rallon having an ideal wheel base and bottom bracket height as well as having the 44mm fork offset the turning capability of the Orbea is the second best I've ever ridden with only my Yeti SB6c feel in like the better turn and burn bike and again that SB6 has 27.5 wheels. Due to the short seat tube and roomy top tub your able to get your dropper down and have so much room to lean and space the bike no matter if the turn's relatively flat or banked. The tires hook up so well and that makes a huge difference but with the Rallon chassis balanced perfectly with it's Geo it makes the bike the real switchblade you've dreamt of. Slow speed switch backs climbing or descending are a little trickier and take a bit more body english and steering input to perform but I wouldn't say thats much different from the other 29'ers I've ridden.

    5- Jumping and Drop absorption: I really didn't have a chance to jump the bike much during the test and I'm not overly concerned because usually adding a bit more air and messing with the compression and rebound will make the bike as capable as needed. Just the fact that cockpit and attack position balance is so good on the Rallon means that the bike will be a really good jumper. As far as drops I was able to confidently say the bike is really solid and composed on the numerous 2' to 4' drops I hit over the 3 days of testing. Many of the drops were to flat and the suspension just soaked everything up without any drama. The front end always held it's landing and never once did I feel the chassis was out of shape even when the landing had baby heads or was blown out. I used 85-90% travel and I was intentionally trying to land rear wheel first on some landings just to feel bottom out resistence. The Rallon is a big boy bike and I don't have quite the skills that some may have so feel assured this bike can handle anything.

    6- Descending: The Rallon is 110% an out an out confidence inspiring platform where you'll always feel that your in control and just let the Rallon do it's thing....let the brakes go and the bike will plow even the Gnarliest line choice. I rode the bike in the higher 65.5 HA setting and it felt great. Never once did I feel to far over the front end and the fork held whatever direction I steered the bike. Even when you'd slither through a rock garden that wanted to kick you towards the front end if you got a bit hung up the stiff frame would allow the suspension to work for you and keep you from getting jolted around. The Rollover of the 29'er wheels really shines in these moments. The rear suspension stayed active and repeated hits didn't make it shudder. The faster you took a section of Chunder and Chunk the more you realize Orbea absolutely nailed the suspension on this bike. I'd say the Rallon and Evil Wreckoning are a dead heat for the best descending 29'er I've ridden with only the Yeti SB6 being just a bit better but not having the same rollover as the Wagon Wheels.

    10 point rating system

    1- Pedal Efficiency: 7.5 considering it's 6" trail bike
    2- Acceleration: 7.0 *I'm running a heavy aluminum wheel set.
    3- Playfulness: 7.5
    4- Turns and Berms: 9.5
    5- Jump & Drop: 8.5
    6- Descending: 9
    Bonus Intangibles: Frame quality and overall Finnish: 9


    Side Notes: I ran a water bottle each ride in my carbon cage. The Camelback Podium bottle fits snugly and securely but is pretty damn tight with the DPX2 shock.

    I'm running a 2,000 Gram + wheel set on this bike. I have no doubt that the bike will accelerate better with less rotating mass just like any bike would. Either DT EX1501 wheels or a good set of Carbon hoops will really makes this bike a rocket on the flatter terrain where quick power bursts will allow the bike to spool up to speed quickly.

    Orbea Rallon 2018 Ride Review-image1.jpg
    Last edited by skinnybex; 09-20-2017 at 07:23 AM.
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    Nice detailed review, thank you for that. I saw that you rode the Wreckoning, demo maybe? Anyhow, what are your thoughts between the two? I did not know the rallon had that steep a STA, that is really sweet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    Nice detailed review, thank you for that. I saw that you rode the Wreckoning, demo maybe? Anyhow, what are your thoughts between the two? I did not know the rallon had that steep a STA, that is really sweet.
    I rode the Wreckoning at the Hurricane MTB Festival for 1 day in March. Took the bike down Zen trail which is a really fun trail with plenty of challenges and then I also rented it again when I was up in Bellingham at the end of June and rode it at Galbraith.

    Just my quick thought's on the bike was that it feels big and somewhat cumbersome....I rode a 32 pound build and it felt like a 32 pound bike whereas my SB5.5 is a 30.5 pound bike but feels snappy like a 28 pound bike. The Rallon also rides more nimble than it's weight.

    The Wrecker was amazing for pumping terrain and the bike devoured all the square edged hits on Zen and was awesome for the steep chutes in Galbraith.

    I was dissapointed with it's pedaling performance and I didn't like the way it climbed seated nor did I like the way it climbed with the shock open. It seemed to do better when I was out of the saddle but that was only when I had to burst up a quick climb that took me laying down the power in a small cog.

    To me the bike is to far weighted to being a gravity bike that takes a ton of effort to get to the top and I never felt comfy trying to grind out climbs. The stated STA for the Evil must not be correct because it felt Slack and I had to slide the saddle almost completley forward.

    The Orbea is in my opinion at least 15% better a climbing bike than the Wrecker and having the steep 76 degree STA makes that percentage even greater because you never feel like your really hitting that threshold of feeling overly tired.
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    Thank you so much for the review. I really appreciate it. Are you planning on trying it out with a coil or are you happy with the dpx2? Do you think this will replace your 5.5 as the 1 quiver bike?

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    Quote Originally Posted by justsendit View Post
    Thank you so much for the review. I really appreciate it. Are you planning on trying it out with a coil or are you happy with the dpx2? Do you think this will replace your 5.5 as the 1 quiver bike?
    The Rallon could definitely be a 1 Quiver bike but I still prefer the SB5.5 as it's a better overall bike. I will also put a DHX Coil on my Rallon and switch between the 2 shocks depending on type of riding I'm doing, I still love the feel of an Airshock.

    I bought the Rallon to keep at my apartment in South America and Orbea has a big presence in Colombia so I'm covered with any service I may need.

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    The DPX2 is a much better shock than the previous Float X and after my 3 rides I have it feeling good.

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    Would you say the X2 is also much better than the dpX2? Or is the jump from dpx2 to X2 not as significant as float x to dpX2? Thanks again skinny

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    Quote Originally Posted by justsendit View Post
    Would you say the X2 is also much better than the dpX2? Or is the jump from dpx2 to X2 not as significant as float x to dpX2? Thanks again skinny
    I'd say the X2 will still be a considerable jump up in performance from the DPX2

    I think the main advantage of the DPX2 compared to the old Float X it replaces is the extra compression adjustment and the new internal changes which make the DPX2 more resistant to blowing through the travel and better mid stroke feel.

    The X2 takes everything a step further as the 2018 model also has had a host of improvements which should result in a more aggressive tune and the four separate circuits to tune....HSR, LSR, HSC and LSC

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I'd say the X2 will still be a considerable jump up in performance from the DPX2

    I think the main advantage of the DPX2 compared to the old Float X it replaces is the extra compression adjustment and the new internal changes which make the DPX2 more resistant to blowing through the travel and better mid stroke feel.

    The X2 takes everything a step further as the 2018 model also has had a host of improvements which should result in a more aggressive tune and the four separate circuits to tune....HSR, LSR, HSC and LSC
    Man thanks! I feel like your review needs to be somewhere more visible. Just curious, using your same 10 point rating system, how would you rate the 5.5?

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    Quote Originally Posted by justsendit View Post
    Man thanks! I feel like your review needs to be somewhere more visible. Just curious, using your same 10 point rating system, how would you rate the 5.5?
    Yeti SB5.5 Size Large Fox 36 160mm RC2 and Push 11-6 Coil with 450 pound spring



    10 point rating system

    1- Pedal Efficiency: 9.5 considering it's 5.5" trail bike
    2- Acceleration: 8.5
    3- Playfulness: 8.0
    4- Turns and Berms: 8.5
    5- Jump & Drop: 8.0
    6- Descending: 8.5
    Bonus Intangibles: Frame quality and overall Finnish: 8.0

    2018 Orbea Rallon Overall rating: 58 points out of 70
    2017 Yeti SB5.5 Overall rating: 59 points out of 70
    2017 Evil Wreckoning Overall rating: 55.5 points out of 70
    2017 Spec. Enduro 29 Overall rating: 56.5 points out of 70
    Last edited by skinnybex; 09-16-2017 at 09:48 PM.
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    Wooo how interesting! Orbea's bonus intangibles is higher than the yeti! Too bad the only 2 orbea dealers in my area only hold their road bikes so I can't see a rallon in person.

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    Quote Originally Posted by justsendit View Post
    Wooo how interesting! Orbea's bonus intangibles is higher than the yeti! Too bad the only 2 orbea dealers in my area only hold their road bikes so I can't see a rallon in person.
    The Orbea Frame build and fit is outstanding. The paint quality and all the linkage points are nice and clean without any evidence of shortcuts taken. The yeti paint and sticker durability while good is just not as top notch as Santa Cruz, Devinci or Rocky Mountain.

    I will keep updating my thoughts as I get even more saddle time with how the Rallon holds up so everyone can be informed.
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    2017 Evil Wreckoning Size Large
    160mm RS Lyrik and RS Monarch Plus
    2 full days Demo in St. George / Hurricane UT and Bellingham, WA.

    10 point rating system

    1- Pedal Efficiency: 6.5 considering it's 161mm travel bike
    2- Acceleration: 7.0
    3- Playfulness: 8.0
    4- Turns and Berms: 9.0
    5- Jump & Drop: 9.0
    6- Descending: 9.0
    Bonus Intangibles: Frame quality and overall Finnish: 7.0
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    2017 Specialized Enduro 29 Size Large
    160mm Ohlins RFX36 Ohlins Air 165mm
    Ridden numerous days over the course of winter 2016/2017 as my friend own this bike

    10 point rating system

    1- Pedal Efficiency: 7.0 considering it's 165mm travel bike
    2- Acceleration: 7.5
    3- Playfulness: 8.5
    4- Turns and Berms: 8.5
    5- Jump & Drop: 8.0
    6- Descending: 8.5
    Bonus Intangibles: Frame quality and overall Finnish: 8.5
    Last edited by skinnybex; 09-16-2017 at 09:47 PM.
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    What's it all mean regarding the 4 Long Travel 29'ers I've Ridden ?

    All these conclusions are with the bikes fork and rear shock ridden in the open position. The Enduro 29 really benefits from a firm trail setting on the rear shock when climbing and pedaling Flow/Singletrack. The Yeti is the one bike that never feels like you need the lever flipped.


    10 point rating system

    ............................(Rallon)..(SB5.5)..(Wr eck)..(E29)
    1- Pedal Efficiency:..(7.5) ......(9.5).....(6.5) ....(7.0)
    2- Acceleration:.......(7.0).......(8.5).....(7.0)... ..(7.5)
    3- Playfulness:........(7.5).......(8.0)......(8.0).. ...(8.5)
    4- Turns and Berms.(9.5)......(8.5)......(9.0).....(8.5)
    5- Jump & Drop:.....(8.5).......(8.0)......(9.0).....(8.0)
    6- Descending:.......(9.0).......(8.5)......(9.0).... .(8.5)
    7- Bonus Intangible.(9.0).....(8.0)......(7.0)......(8.5)

    Total out of 70pts:...(58).......(59)......(55.5)....(56.5)

    Orbea Rallon is an above average pedaling bike "seated climbing is very good" with great Descending capabilities and stability. Stiff rear end and long WB keeps the bike from never feeling nervous or sketchy.

    Yeti SB5.5 is an amazing pedal effecient bike that sets PR's with its well rounded attributes. Snappy acceleration and a race firm suspension feel make it lightning fast. another 1/2 degree slacker HTA would make it even better.

    Evil Wreckoning is a Gravity devouring monster that's also Poppy and Playful but a real chore on the flats and steeper climbs. The steeper and Gnarlier the terrain the better the bike is for you. Feels a bit clunky when not pointed down.

    The now Older 2017 Enduro 29 is a Playful and nimble bike that only suffers from it's pillowy soft pedaling performance but is otherwise solid in every regard. The 2018 edition will make it and even better descending bike with Geo Tweaks.
    Last edited by skinnybex; 09-17-2017 at 11:52 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    What's it all mean regarding the 4 Long Travel 29'ers I've Ridden ? 10 point rating system:

    ............................(Rallon)..(SB5.5)..(Wr eck)..(E29)
    1- Pedal Efficiency:..(7.5) ......(9.5).....(6.5) ....(7.0)
    2- Acceleration:.......(7.0).......(8.5).....(7.0)... ..(7.5)
    3- Playfulness:........(7.5).......(8.0)......(8.0).. ...(8.5)
    4- Turns and Berms.(9.5)......(8.5)......(9.0).....(8.5)
    5- Jump & Drop:.....(8.5).......(8.0)......(9.0).....(8.0)
    6- Descending:.......(9.0).......(8.5)......(9.0).... .(8.5)
    7- Bonus Intangible.(9.0).....(8.0)......(7.0)......(8.5)

    Total out of 70pts:...(58).......(59)......(55.5)....(56.5)
    @Skinny: awesome posts and detailed reviews! This is the kind of stuff that I've been hunting for.

    I'm an Evil Following (v1) owner, and have loved my ride the last 2 years... but been wanting more squish for gnarlier terrain & square ledges (and admittedly a softer ride for an aging back!). I can have only one bike, so trying to get my head around which compromises to make for my ideal quiver-killer.

    Since I love the ride of my Evil, I've been eyeing the Wreck - and there are *many* in the Evil camp who swear it's also an efficient climber (on par w/ the 5.5, which I felt hard to believe!), especially when you put an 11.6 on it. However, I've also heard others say it feels sluggish until you're hammering at high speeds. I'm not a downhill (or even Enduro) guy and need to earn my turns... and there's lots of steep climbs here on the CO Front Range (and even my trips out to Moab, etc), so I don't want a dog!

    The 5.5 & Rallon have been my two top contenders vs the Wreck, and the (v5) Rallon is super-hard to find reviews on - especially *versus* the other two bikes!

    To get my 'quiver-of-one' bike somewhere in-between, my thoughts were either to (1) beef-up something like a 5.5 (add coils, wide-wheels/tires, etc), or (2) build a Rallon/Wreck/etc undergunned (skinnier wheels/tires, reduced shock, etc).

    But, from the sounds of your reviews, the 5.5 is already designed to be more a middle-path bike, and prob already better suited for what I want to do.

    Any thoughts about how a coil (prob 11.6) makes the 5.5 on decending vs. the Rallon/Wreck? Also been thinking about a coil fork (ACS-3, etc) as well...


    EDIT: I just noticed that your review of the 5.5 was *with* a Push 11.6 - D'oh! Still, wld love your thoughts on what it added to the 5.5!

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    Great review!!

    One technical question:
    Does a 2.5" wide Maxxis DHF fit into the rear end with enough space for mud?
    I need tyre clearance in my area where I ride.
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Igetyou1982 View Post
    Great review!!

    One technical question:
    Does a 2.5" wide Maxxis DHF fit into the rear end with enough space for mud?
    I need tyre clearance in my area where I ride.
    Thanks
    I'll get a photo of clearance with the Aggressor 2.3" currently mounted on my 30mm internal rim. This should give you somewhat of an Idea of how much space is available. Maxxis tires tend to not measure a bit narrower than Schwalbe, WTB and others.

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    Quote Originally Posted by laserjockrock View Post
    @Skinny: awesome posts and detailed reviews! This is the kind of stuff that I've been hunting for.

    I'm an Evil Following (v1) owner, and have loved my ride the last 2 years... but been wanting more squish for gnarlier terrain & square ledges (and admittedly a softer ride for an aging back!). I can have only one bike, so trying to get my head around which compromises to make for my ideal quiver-killer.

    Since I love the ride of my Evil, I've been eyeing the Wreck - and there are *many* in the Evil camp who swear it's also an efficient climber (on par w/ the 5.5, which I felt hard to believe!), especially when you put an 11.6 on it. However, I've also heard others say it feels sluggish until you're hammering at high speeds. I'm not a downhill (or even Enduro) guy and need to earn my turns... and there's lots of steep climbs here on the CO Front Range (and even my trips out to Moab, etc), so I don't want a dog!

    The 5.5 & Rallon have been my two top contenders vs the Wreck, and the (v5) Rallon is super-hard to find reviews on - especially *versus* the other two bikes!

    To get my 'quiver-of-one' bike somewhere in-between, my thoughts were either to (1) beef-up something like a 5.5 (add coils, wide-wheels/tires, etc), or (2) build a Rallon/Wreck/etc undergunned (skinnier wheels/tires, reduced shock, etc).

    But, from the sounds of your reviews, the 5.5 is already designed to be more a middle-path bike, and prob already better suited for what I want to do.

    Any thoughts about how a coil (prob 11.6) makes the 5.5 on decending vs. the Rallon/Wreck? Also been thinking about a coil fork (ACS-3, etc) as well...


    EDIT: I just noticed that your review of the 5.5 was *with* a Push 11.6 - D'oh! Still, wld love your thoughts on what it added to the 5.5!
    I don't really think the travel numbers of the SB5.5 hold it back much if any compared to the Rallon and the wreckoning. The differences really come down to head tube angle 66.5 Yeti and 65.5-65 ish for the other 2 bikes as well as the longer Wheelbase. Another 15-30 mm really help calm the bike down and keep it more forgiving.

    Now the trade offs of the difference in Geo is neither the Orbea nor the Evil accel quite as much as the Yeti on your average all around trail ride where you'll be mixing in plenty of climbing, flowy flat Singletrack and technical descents.

    Adding the 11-6 has made my 5.5 much better through the first 2/3 of the travel and traction is so good. The idea for me is to keep the wheels glued to the trail and absorbing all the little contours while not skipping or stuttering around like the Float X did. Obviously when you want to be playful on the bike it's very capable and I use my second tuned circuit push set up for me which firms up the shock so it becomes much more poppy.

    Small bump performance and mid stroke support are outstanding and as long as you get your correct spring rate to get your Sag between settled between 28% - 32% you'll be dialed. Push springs come in 25# increments.

    I'm sure if you went with the DHX2 or another brand Coil you'd also get great results.

    I still believe an Airshock is a great choice for the SB5.5 and now that the 2018 models are coming with the DPX2 I'd say it'll be better than the previous Float X in almost every aspect. I'm really impressed with the DPX2 on my Orbea.

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    Thx @Skinny - you rock. Very appreciated!

    I'll report back in after I run some demos to share what I notice w/ the thread...

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    Enjoying this thread (subbing also). Rallon is high on my list for next bike but really need to hear this type of stuff before laying down the $


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Bicycling is politics by other means.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Structure View Post
    Enjoying this thread (subbing also). Rallon is high on my list for next bike but really need to hear this type of stuff before laying down the $


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah totally. I looked at the 2018 Scott genius 900 and it's geo is almost identical and similarity priced so this type of review is priceless

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    Guy's this bike is so damn good and one of the beauties of the Geometry is that the bike will really fit a wide variety of riders really well because of the short seat tube length as well as the generous but not obnoxious reach numbers. between tweaking stem length and being able to move the saddle fore or aft you'll get the ideal fit and having the steep seat tube angle is a real benefit in pedaling performance and the bike fitting you well regarding pedal position and being over the bottom bracket for best power transfer.

    The other thing which really put's this bike above many of the others is the quality and design of the carbon frame and linkages. Absolutely beautiful while looking beefy and durable. Add the fact that you'll get a lifetime warranty on the frame and 2 useable frame Geometry position...Low and Lower and your set for many years to come.

    3 different shock choices which I have no doubt will all work equally well so you can decide which type of rear suspension feel you desire without feeling like your compromising.

    I'm in love with the steering response of the 44mm offset and I can only see this being the preferred choice with 29'er bikes in the future.

    This is THE bike to own if you want that sub 65.5 degree slack 29'er that can do everything really well.

    P.S. - Orbea isn't as well supported here in North America as it is in Europe or Latin America but that doesn't mean that you don't have support for any problems that may occur. Orbea USA responded to a couple of my questions within a few hours and plenty of reputable dealers are here in the USA. Yes, Orbea is well renowned for road bikes and racing and they also have a good heritage in the XC world but thats all about to change with this bike because it's Brilliant.

    Be different and get this bike because it feels damn good to ride such a capable and great looking bike that few people know about.
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    I'm guessing 2.4" max in the rear. I know that might put some people off but I'm not sure I'd be comfortable running anything wider and feel good about mud or rock clearance.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igetyou1982 View Post
    Great review!!

    One technical question:
    Does a 2.5" wide Maxxis DHF fit into the rear end with enough space for mud?
    I need tyre clearance in my area where I ride.
    Thanks
    It doesn't look like anything wider than a 2.4" will fit and still allow enough space for mud. I'll still try and get a measurement but visually looking I say no way.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    It doesn't look like anything wider than a 2.4" will fit and still allow enough space for mud. I'll still try and get a measurement but visually looking I say no way.
    The front can fit up to 2.6 right?
    Also, now that you've spent more time on it would you change your 10 point rating?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by justsendit View Post
    The front can fit up to 2.6 right?
    Also, now that you've spent more time on it would you change your 10 point rating?
    Up front you can fit a 2.8" with the Boost Fox Fork. I would never run bigger than a 2.6" in the front. I happen to prefer 2.3" tires on the rear of almost all my bikes. Still good volume but also keep nice tire profile as well as being generally lighter weight than going 2.4"-2.5"

    I stand by my rating for the Rallon. If anything I feel maybe it accelerates a bit better than the 7.0 I gave it.....maybe 7.5 since I'm running the heaviest wheels I own on the Rallon. My Yeti has lighter carbon wheels and the E29 I rode had Roval Carbons. I don't remember what the Evil had but once was carbon and once was Aluminum.

    I'll ride the Rallon Friday and Saturday and then I'm taking it to Whistler for 7 days of riding. I'll do everything from bike park flow laps to "Top of the World" and "Lord of the Squirrels" which will have plenty of climbing and some amazing downs.
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    The next long travel 29'er I want to ride and test will be the 2018 Rocky Mountain Instinct BC edition which is 160mm/155mm

    I love RMB to death and the Thunderbolt is one of the most fun bikes I've ever ridden and looking at all the Geo changes to the new Instinct I have no doubt in my mind it will be a blast and very capable.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    The next long travel 29'er I want to ride and test will be the 2018 Rocky Mountain Instinct BC edition which is 160mm/155mm

    I love RMB to death and the Thunderbolt is one of the most fun bikes I've ever ridden and looking at all the Geo changes to the new Instinct I have no doubt in my mind it will be a blast and very capable.
    Nice! Honestly who needs pinkbike or nsmb when we've got skinnybex.

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    I know some guy who is a Norco Range owner and spec Enduro and just felt in love with the Rallon after some pyrinees racing.

    This bike is so sweet, I am so eager to receive mine! Finally I modified the order to include the DT Swiss 1501 , such a bargain for 400 if you ask me.

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    I've receive mine a month ago. Rallon M-10 XL. I went for the Rallon cause of the geometry, i can sit over the BB with it rather than behind. Up to now, i'm really please by the performance of the bike. I've spent 3 days riding bike park, from a-line type of trail to double black, and it always answer very very well. Still own a DH rig and decide to take the Rallon on the last outing because i had so much fun with it. Oh! BTW don't know if it's cause of my riding style i'm use to throw my bike real hard in the corner, the Rallon did feel really good cornering, even compare to my 2013 Nomad on 26 wheel. I've push as much as i could to try to fault that bike, didn't succeed.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by george82 View Post
    I know some guy who is a Norco Range owner and spec Enduro and just felt in love with the Rallon after some pyrinees racing.

    This bike is so sweet, I am so eager to receive mine! Finally I modified the order to include the DT Swiss 1501 , such a bargain for 400 if you ask me.
    Congratulations on your soon to arrive Rallon. You made an outstanding choice and I can promise you you won't be disappointed. Please make sure to post your impression as well as setup tips and any changes you may make in the Rallon build thread. Let's support this bike so others can be educated and informed and also own such a great bike if their trying to decide on what to get.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smumu View Post
    I've receive mine a month ago. Rallon M-10 XL. I went for the Rallon cause of the geometry, i can sit over the BB with it rather than behind. Up to now, i'm really please by the performance of the bike. I've spent 3 days riding bike park, from a-line type of trail to double black, and it always answer very very well. Still own a DH rig and decide to take the Rallon on the last outing because i had so much fun with it. Oh! BTW don't know if it's cause of my riding style i'm use to throw my bike real hard in the corner, the Rallon did feel really good cornering, even compare to my 2013 Nomad on 26 wheel. I've push as much as i could to try to fault that bike, didn't succeed.
    Like I said in my review the bike fits a wide array of riders and really allows you to adjust properly over the BB. Also like you said turning is so amazing on this bike whether it's high speed or slower technique required the bike just follows through with your steering input so well.

    It's conformation like yours that will make this bike a real success. Thanks for posting and pleas continue to contribute with pictures and build suggestions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    It doesn't look like anything wider than a 2.4" will fit and still allow enough space for mud. I'll still try and get a measurement but visually looking I say no way.
    Thanks for answering the Question.
    If a DHR2 will fit, I'am finde with it.

    Would be great if you could measure it or take some pictures.
    Thanks skinnybex

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    I've ordered my Rallon but I still have to wait until 1st of December which I'm finding extremely difficult. Got it in black and graphite which I think looks awesomeOrbea Rallon 2018 Ride Review-1.jpg

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    Oh and I've got a Kashima Transfer post to go on it too

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    The graphite and black looks awesome. I have an M10 XL Rallon in the Red and Black (instant gratification, couldn't wait til Jan). Ride primarily in the Southeast. Just thought I'd throw my two cents in now that I have some miles on the bike. Came off of a 2015 Remedy 29. That was a great bike but I am enjoying the Rallon quite a bit more. I am a one bike at a time kinda rider so I had to sell the Remedy to get the Rallon but I'm really happy that I did. I'm 6'2 and 185 fully geared the Rallon just fits perfectly. The numbers really are ideal and the 76 degree seat angle is pretty unique along with the 44mm offset the bike corners and climbs much better then my Remedy despite the slacker head angle and longer reach. Suspension is really well done and I had some trepidation coming off the RE:Aktiv but I've been running the Rallon in open even for some milder cross country stuff in the area and have been setting a bunch of PR's on Strava. Small bump compliance is really good but it really shines on the more rock and root strewn descents around here. I'm running about 190 psi, rebound 5 clicks from least damping, and LSC wide open.

    The really cool thing for me is that I've been able to really up my speed on the downs hitting 7-8 mph faster then I could on the Remedy. The bike is super stable at speed and just wants to go. You can really lay off the brakes and feel really safe.

    Only slight negative has been the Fox Performance shock which will probably be the first thing I upgrade as it is not really that adjustable and I've been struggling like crazy to get it adjusted and to use full travel even at like 30% sag. The lbs is going to take a look at it probably this week. I'll hold judgement until they take a look at it. Ribbon Coil anyone? Also, the M10 setup I think runs a 50mm stem and I'm thinking about dropping to a 30mm stem. The XL reach just gives you so much room to play with this sort of stuff so looking forward to experimenting a little bit.

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    I just went the X2 and Factory RC2 fork straight off the bat! Didnt see the point of messing around, the bike already expensive so 'in for a penny in for a pound' I say. I got an XL too which I'm glad I did as they run small in my opinion. One thing I am surprised about is the lack of YouTube footage on the bike.

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    Do have the standard seat post?
    Is it really with only 125mm hub mentioned in spec on their webpage?

  40. #40
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    Did both of you buy sight unseen or did you get a chance to compare the Large v XL? I'm 6 1" and old enough not to be getting any taller. I think the Large is the way to go but I do hate not being able to try both.


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    I bought a 150mm Kashima Transfer as they don't do a 170mm, the RaceFace it comes with is ****ing brutal and has the potential to take your balls clean off!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Structure View Post
    Did both of you buy sight unseen or did you get a chance to compare the Large v XL? I'm 6 1" and old enough not to be getting any taller. I think the Large is the way to go but I do hate not being able to try both.


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    I did ultimately buy sight unseen. I kinda went with the reviews on sizing. A little scary but ultimately as someone who is not really looking for a super playful bike I wasn't put off by the longer wheelbase on the XL. I really wanted something that was fast going down, super stable and with a longer reach. The remedy I was coming off of was a 19.5 so on the small side, and while I feel like I've gained a lot in terms of downhill ability, I don't particularly feel like the bike is significantly less nimble. Because of the seat tube being so short I think if you are going to miss with this bike it might be better to miss bigger. Also, with the steeper seat tube that "reach" feels a little shorter when you are sitting. For what it is worth, I am really comfortable on the XL in stock configuration. I'm 6'2 with a 6'2 wingspan as well.

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    100% large is definitely NOT the way to go mate, they come up small! I'm 6ft and have an XL and I feel it could still be bigger

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    I got to take one out on a parking lot demo the other evening, will get a trail ride in soon, on the XL and it fit pretty well. I'm 6'3" and the stem was slammed but it was very comfortable. Fit was a tad more comfortable than my XL Hightower LT that I've been tweaking for a while now.

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    I've got and XL too, i'm 6'4 and a little longer in legs than in the upper torso. The fit was real good from the get go.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Headoc View Post



    Only slight negative has been the Fox Performance shock which will probably be the first thing I upgrade as it is not really that adjustable and I've been struggling like crazy to get it adjusted and to use full travel even at like 30% sag. The lbs is going to take a look at it probably this week. I'll hold judgement until they take a look at it. Ribbon Coil anyone? Also, the M10 setup I think runs a 50mm stem and I'm thinking about dropping to a 30mm stem. The XL reach just gives you so much room to play with this sort of stuff so looking forward to experimenting a little bit.
    Remember that achieving 95% travel should only be happening on big big hits or drops. It's easy to look at the rubber O-ring and get frustrated that it's at 70% travel. Big drops 4-6' and rough rock gardens and chunk should be what you judge your effective travel useage on.

    I assume your talking about the Fox 36 Performance Fork ? I have a couple suggestions for you. First I'd set fork Sag to 18-20% max. You want the fork to ride fairly high in the travel for almost all you pedal and flow riding. Play with air pressure each ride adjusting no more tha 3-5psi up or down each time until you get the fork feeling nice and supple but not overly harsh, but also you don't want feeling Mushy or overly soft like it dives though 2/3 of the travel when you weight the front end.

    You may need to reduce or add a volume spacer depending on how you ride and if your heavy or overly aggressive over the front end. The fork comes with 2 tokens installed. I would always leave the Grip Damper open and not mess with turning it clockwise. Also keep you rebound between 8-10 turns from full damped/Slow and adjust from that point one click at a time until you get the fork feeling responsive to bumps and hits but not packing up or also rebounding to quickly that your front end is kicking you or deflecting to much.

    If you want to make an instant improvement contact Fox and order the RC2 Damper so you have full adjustment over HSC/LSC

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by CircusNormal View Post
    I bought a 150mm Kashima Transfer as they don't do a 170mm, the RaceFace it comes with is ****ing brutal and has the potential to take your balls clean off!
    Yeah, I had a couple bad experiences with RF droppers so I said no way. My other 4 bikes have Fox Transfer 150mm posts and I love them.

    I decided to give the Reverb another go and so far so good. 170mm is awesome and the new lever is fantastic. I'm sure the Verb will need a fresh bleed each season but I'm okay with that if it stays consistent and works smoothly without the dreaded 5-10mm sag the old ones used to get.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    If you want to make an instant improvement contact Fox and order the RC2 Damper so you have full adjustment over HSC/LSC
    Do you know approximately how much those cost? How difficult is it to swap with the performance damper?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninguno View Post
    Do you know approximately how much those cost? How difficult is it to swap with the performance damper?
    Retail is $310.....I was able to get mine for $200 through a friend but it was a one time hookup. Installation is easy and there are plenty of walk throughs on youtube along with all the tools needed.
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    Newcomers, don't forget to post pics of those beauties :-)

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    This review here says it all pretty well. I own the bike for almost 2 month now and I made the following observations:

    I have the M10 build upgraded with some lighter parts. I rode it on my home trails and I was in Saalbach/Leogang for three days for some lift assisted riding.

    Plus:
    - climbs way better than the Hightower I had before (where I ride it is steep up and down). On Friday I did a climb that I never made with the Hightower. With the Rallon I made it on my first attempt - without even trying too hard.
    - turning feels natural. I feel no negatives with the slack head angle or the short fork rake.
    - DPX2 feels very good
    - for the Saalbach days I switched to the "lower" linkage position. I loved it instantly and I will not switch back. Not too much pedal strikes, and rides better in my opinion.
    - Riding & Geometry? Feels perfect for me. I am 190cm on a XL frame and it fits me well. Better than the Hightower did. Going downhill it is fast and feels secure - even with the less than stellar fork. This bike for me is more fun in the park than a DH-bike and I am sure it will ride good on my multi day trips too.

    Minus:
    - the 36 with Grip damper feels harsh when going fast. Better than a Pike I had, but crappy still and way worse than my Lyrik RCT3 i had before (that fork was just perfect out of the box). I even tried a drop to flat with 30% sag - landed nose heavy - and even with that combination for disaster I was not able to use full travel! With my normal setting at 25% sag, 3cm of travel are unused. I think I will contact Fox with that issue as it does not seem normal.

    - my cable for the dropper post is not wrapped in foam as the brake hose and the shifting cable is. So it was rattling. I solved the problem with some foam and tape but the cable routing on the Hightower was simpler and absolutely silent.

    - I lost the screw at the "split pivot". Was my fault. Should have checked it. Just be sure to secure the nut with some Loctite.

    Would I buy the Rallon again?

    Yes!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by firevsh2o View Post
    This review here says it all pretty well. I own the bike for almost 2 month now and I made the following observations:

    I have the M10 build upgraded with some lighter parts. I rode it on my home trails and I was in Saalbach/Leogang for three days for some lift assisted riding.

    Plus:
    - climbs way better than the Hightower I had before (where I ride it is steep up and down). On Friday I did a climb that I never made with the Hightower. With the Rallon I made it on my first attempt - without even trying too hard.
    - turning feels natural. I feel no negatives with the slack head angle or the short fork rake.
    - DPX2 feels very good
    - for the Saalbach days I switched to the "lower" linkage position. I loved it instantly and I will not switch back. Not too much pedal strikes, and rides better in my opinion.
    - Riding & Geometry? Feels perfect for me. I am 190cm on a XL frame and it fits me well. Better than the Hightower did. Going downhill it is fast and feels secure - even with the less than stellar fork. This bike for me is more fun in the park than a DH-bike and I am sure it will ride good on my multi day trips too.

    Minus:
    - the 36 with Grip damper feels harsh when going fast. Better than a Pike I had, but crappy still and way worse than my Lyrik RCT3 i had before (that fork was just perfect out of the box). I even tried a drop to flat with 30% sag - landed nose heavy - and even with that combination for disaster I was not able to use full travel! With my normal setting at 25% sag, 3cm of travel are unused. I think I will contact Fox with that issue as it does not seem normal.

    - my cable for the dropper post is not wrapped in foam as the brake hose and the shifting cable is. So it was rattling. I solved the problem with some foam and tape but the cable routing on the Hightower was simpler and absolutely silent.

    - I lost the screw at the "split pivot". Was my fault. Should have checked it. Just be sure to secure the nut with some Loctite.

    Would I buy the Rallon again?

    Yes!!
    Do you miss the HT? I am in the same situation, not sure if selling the HT is worth it, considering that I would be lucky if I get 50% of the money i paid for her. Besides, which one would you say looks better given the Clyde size?

    Which is that split pivot everyone seems to be loosing?


    Some pictures would be welcome :-)

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    Hey
    is the hanger tool or pre load tool always included?

    Is this tool definitely needed for maintenance purposes?

    Thanks guys!

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    I don't think anyone else lost his pivot nut. It is just me who was that stupid. ;-)

    I do not miss the HT. In my opinion the Rallon is the better bike. My HT had the crapp Monarch shock (Now I have a crappy fork. Well.). Especialy uphill it is way better. Downhill it is different. The HT was more lively and poppy but the Rallon does not feel dead either.

    I sold my Hightower with the Orbea Parts and lost about 600Ä in half year of ownership.

    My bike was without tools. Has anybody else gotten the tools? If yes, I shuld call my dealer!

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I stand by my rating for the Rallon. If anything I feel maybe it accelerates a bit better than the 7.0 I gave it.....maybe 7.5 since I'm running the heaviest wheels I own on the Rallon. My Yeti has lighter carbon wheels and the E29 I rode had Roval Carbons. I don't remember what the Evil had but once was carbon and once was Aluminum.

    I'll ride the Rallon Friday and Saturday and then I'm taking it to Whistler for 7 days of riding. I'll do everything from bike park flow laps to "Top of the World" and "Lord of the Squirrels" which will have plenty of climbing and some amazing downs.
    Skinny will any of your carbon wheels fit the Rallon? In my 30 years of mountain biking I have found that wheel weight is the most critical part of the equation on how the bike feels pedaling or accelerating. I would love to hear your opinion after trying the switch.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Skinny will any of your carbon wheels fit the Rallon? In my 30 years of mountain biking I have found that wheel weight is the most critical part of the equation on how the bike feels pedaling or accelerating. I would love to hear your opinion after trying the switch.
    SP, I have a set of SC Reserve 30's arriving Friday for my Rallon so I'll update my impressions once I've ridden the bike with the Carbon wheels.

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    Hi Skinny,
    great reviews of the bikes, it's very informative.

    How do you compare the Rallon and SB6 for the most steep and rocky descents (not the bike parks with nice flow but rather the natural steep and scarry descents?

    I am concidering to replace my Nomad with rallon as a AM gun and keem my hightower as a trail bike. what is your feeling having both (Rallon and SB6)?

    thanks in advanced
    regards
    K

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    Great review! Thanks for all the info! On the fence between this bike and Spec Enduro 29er

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingsno19 View Post
    Great review! What is the weight of your Rallon?
    30.3 Pounds without Pedals
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bilu View Post
    Hi Skinny,
    great reviews of the bikes, it's very informative.

    How do you compare the Rallon and SB6 for the most steep and rocky descents (not the bike parks with nice flow but rather the natural steep and scarry descents?

    I am concidering to replace my Nomad with rallon as a AM gun and keem my hightower as a trail bike. what is your feeling having both (Rallon and SB6)?

    thanks in advanced
    regards
    K
    I'll give you a detailed H2H later today. I will say that both bike are really close in descending capabilities with the discerning difference obviously being wheel size. Do you want the better slow speed roll over of the 29'er wheels or the point and shoot momentum driven 27.5 / SB6 feel.

    I think if your a more aggressive rider that tends to let the bike go and just feather the brakes when things get step and chunky the SB6 is better especially with a 170mm fork.

    If your more of a On/Off rider where you tend to like to be a bit more cautious and speed check into Gnarly lines then the slow speed roll over abilities the Rallon gives you with the 29'er wheels you can't go wrong.

    Either bike will deliver in spades it's just a matter of how much the bike will help your own ability level conquer your riding goals.
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  61. #61
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    Thanks for the review. I've had my eye on this Rallon since I saw the first press releases. Really sharp looking bike. Dialed numbers. I've been avoiding the big demo shows lately but after riding the Wreckoning and seeing all the other great long travel 29ers coming out, I may need to get over to Outerbike and do some comparing. In the meantime I appreciate your comparisons. Very helpful.
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    Would love to get a review from you KRob! Especially compared to a Wreckoning. I have always enjoyed your reviews and your review of a Pivot Mach 6 pushed me over the edge to buy one 3 years ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Would love to get a review from you KRob! Especially compared to a Wreckoning. I have always enjoyed your reviews and your review of a Pivot Mach 6 pushed me over the edge to buy one 3 years ago.
    Thanks. I've kinda lost my passion for doing bike reviews lately. Two things: First, All bikes are so good now, it's hard to find meaningful differences (skinny did a good job with his), and secondly, mtbr requires that my reviews are so vanilla/press release-like as to not offend their advertisers that I get bored writing them. Maybe I should just stick to the forums or my blog and let loose a bit more.

    Back to the Rallon: I absolutely LOVE this color combo. I'd buy the bike on that alone even if it were only half decent......
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Orbea Rallon 2018 Ride Review-rallon.jpg  

    Last edited by KRob; 09-28-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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    Come back to the dark side and let loose. We need REAL reviews here! Hand pick a few bikes you are really interested in and maybe it will be fun again. For what its worth, your reviews have been great and I appreciate them.

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    [QUOTE=KRob;13357188]Thanks. I've kinda lost my passion for doing bike reviews lately. Two things: First, All bikes are so good now, it's hard to find meaningful differences (skinny did a good job with his), and secondly, mtbr requires that my reviews are so vanilla/press release-like as to not offend their advertisers that I get bored writing them. Maybe I should just stick to the forums or my blog and let loose a bit more.

    Thank you for your honest reply.

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    I'm demoing a Large Rallon Team for a few days on my local trails in Laguna. Here's my impression after a quick first ride:

    Geometry: dialed for me. 29ers finally feel right. Though a 40 or 45 stem for reach might be better than 32. 44 offset 29 fork is great...light feel, not floppy on climbs, stable at speed.

    Kinematics: Pedaling and braking on point. Antisquat and anti rise felt comparable to my T275 and the HD4 I demo'd.

    Ride: Super stable smasher on open high speed. Smooths braking bumps. Steep roll in transitions are aided with the 29. Felt a bit awkward on steep janky 90deg turns but the fork was also pogoing. I dialed in some more rebound and need to revisit.

    I was concerned with tire/taint rub on the steeps but that proved unfounded - The geo+29 rollover allows for more forward position in steeps and transitions

    Weight: 31.25 vs 29.5 for my T275. Has tubes so probably 30.75 tubeless? 1.25lb difference is a fair bit portly and I felt it with bike on the back HAB. heavier than the HD4 too.

    Concerns: The shock fill sits a little too proud with the asymmetric shock, I caught my knee pad once. Can't rotate it to another position due to the clevis style mount. Squeaking after 1 ride around the shock area. Removed shock and greased eyelets to no avail.

    Main pivot is collet style hardware and I've had nothing but trouble with that on my T275.

    Components:

    Fox 36 RC2 felt great at 85 psi, much more supple than my 2014 Pike. Don't know how many tokens.

    Float X2 is great at 170 psi but I knew that as I have it on my T275

    Wheels felt great. Weight is good and they were more compliant than my ENVEs. I'd run them over carbons.

    Race Face dropper sucks! Doesn't want to extend fully if you're hovering over it applying the slightest seat pressure. If you completely unweight it slams back at ball busting speed. The saddle clamp area creaks, probably could be remedied by greasing but a very poor licensing of the same basic 9.8 Fall Line design that is damn near perfect.

    Minion DHF 2.5 on front is money. Agressor 2.3 on rear was OK but I'd prefer something wider.

    Guide RSCs are my preferred brake but the organic pads on front were not up to par. They were sure smooth but I'd swap for metallics.

    >$1,000 price premium over comparable HD4

    More in coming days.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Thanks. I've kinda lost my passion for doing bike reviews lately. Two things: First, All bikes are so good now, it's hard to find meaningful differences (skinny did a good job with his), and secondly, mtbr requires that my reviews are so vanilla/press release-like as to not offend their advertisers that I get bored writing them. Maybe I should just stick to the forums or my blog and let loose a bit more.

    Back to the Rallon: I absolutely LOVE this color combo. I'd buy the bike on that alone even if it were only half decent......
    Need to just do real reviews on your blog.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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    Couple more observations from today's ride:

    Maybe this is typical of 29s, IDK as this is my first experience but it really is more of a smash and plow bike. It just eats up the open, high speed chunk. The downside is it's noticeably more difficult to lift the front end/manual. It's a bit less playful and nimble than 27.5 as well.

    Bike is a bit noisy on high speed chunk. I couldn't tell if it was chain slap or rebound top out of some sort. Shock rebound is set sufficiently slow. The additional LSC and HSC I added to the fork made a positive impact today. Less divey in bombholes.

    I can't say enough positive things about the geometry. The steep SA is just a joy. No need to stuff the nose of the saddle up your taint to climb. On that topic, I've always been a WTB saddle guy but the flat profile of this Sella Italia is quite nice. Not nearly as cush as my WTB but comfortable on the sit bones and much easier to slide off the back of the bike when desired.

    This XO1 Eagle drivetrain is noticeably more ker-klunkety in gears 1-3 with even slight pedal pressure (compared to my XX1 11 spd). It's perfect on the stand. I didn't set it up so I can't vouch that the B tension is proper or they aligned the derailleur hanger. The HD4 I demo'd had Eagle GX and I don't recall this experience.

    Will revisit some janky stuff tomorrow. I'm torn between this and an HD4 but leaning toward the HD4.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    Couple more observations from today's ride:

    Maybe this is typical of 29s, IDK as this is my first experience but it really is more of a smash and plow bike. It just eats up the open, high speed chunk. The downside is it's noticeably more difficult to lift the front end/manual. It's a bit less playful and nimble than 27.5 as well.

    Bike is a bit noisy on high speed chunk. I couldn't tell if it was chain slap or rebound top out of some sort. Shock rebound is set sufficiently slow. The additional LSC and HSC I added to the fork made a positive impact today. Less divey in bombholes.

    I can't say enough positive things about the geometry. The steep SA is just a joy. No need to stuff the nose of the saddle up your taint to climb. On that topic, I've always been a WTB saddle guy but the flat profile of this Sella Italia is quite nice. Not nearly as cush as my WTB but comfortable on the sit bones and much easier to slide off the back of the bike when desired.

    This XO1 Eagle drivetrain is noticeably more ker-klunkety in gears 1-3 with even slight pedal pressure (compared to my XX1 11 spd). It's perfect on the stand. I didn't set it up so I can't vouch that the B tension is proper or they aligned the derailleur hanger. The HD4 I demo'd had Eagle GX and I don't recall this experience.

    Will revisit some janky stuff tomorrow. I'm torn between this and an HD4 but leaning toward the HD4.
    I demoed the HD4 during Interbike here in Vegas since Irwin Cycles had a free demo day. Did 19 miles and 2k climbing and I wasn't impressed at all with the way it climbed and pedal efficienc with the way it was set up " Ibis 742 wheels I believe ". The bike had 2.6" F & R and I had numerous pedal strikes which really surprised me because I did the same ride on the HD4 as I did on my Rallon and had no problems cleaning everything and the bike felt better all around on the Orbea . Now the HD4 was an absolute monster on the downs but I think that's to be expected. Other than the obvious difference in Wheel size I felt the Orbea was just as nimble and didn't really give up much playfulness even with the bigger wheels. My SB6 to me is still the better bike compared to the HD4.

    Sent from my iPhone

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I demoed the HD4 during Interbike here in Vegas since Irwin Cycles had a free demo day. Did 19 miles and 2k climbing and I wasn't impressed at all with the way it climbed and pedal efficiency. The bike had 2.6" F & R and I had numerous pedal strikes which really surprised me because I did the same ride on the HD4 as I did on my Rallon. Now the HD4 was an absolute monster on the downs but I think that's to be expected. Other than the obvious difference in Wheel size I felt the Orbea was just as nimble and didn't really give up much playfulness even with the bigger wheels. My SB6 to me is still the better bike compared to the HD4.

    Sent from my iPhone
    The Rallon comes with 170mm cranks. That may account for fewer pedal strikes if the HD4 you demo'd had 175s?

    Personally I didn't have any complaints on the HD4 climbing. I did feel the front end wander a bit more on steep climbing but the 1 deg slacker HA would account for that.

    Both amazing bikes...Horses for courses. Many good choices these days.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    The Rallon comes with 170mm cranks. That may account for fewer pedal strikes if the HD4 you demo'd had 175s?

    Personally I didn't have any complaints on the HD4 climbing. I did feel the front end wander a bit more on steep climbing but the 1 deg slacker HA would account for that.

    Both amazing bikes...Horses for courses. Many good choices these days.
    I've ridden my Rallon in both settings 65.5 and 65. The HD4 is 64.9

    The HD4 was definitely more wandery up front and took a bit of muscling. The wheel setup is total overkill and I didn't like the 2.6 in the back at all.

    I'll admit that I would love to have another day to mess with the suspension on the HD4 but I have enough experience with the 36rc2 as well as the X2

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    Looking at the bike, pretty sure the noise was chain slap. The chainstay crosses over and runs very close to the chainring. I can see witness marks on the stock helicopter tape. Doesn't appear to be enough clearance to wrap mastic tape around but I'd apply some strategically on the top of the chainstay if it were my bike.

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    Thanks for the various reviews of the bike.

    Just wondering if anyone who has ordered/received their Rallon with a DHX2 coil shock knows what spring weight comes with the bike (or if it is possible for Orbea to change this directly before shipping out)? Since the SLS springs are fairly expensive, it would be nice to have the correct one for my weight straight away. I have tried to ask Orbea directly but haven't had any success which is a bit annoying!

    Second question is: is there room to fit a larger chain ring than the stock 32 tooth which comes with the bike, does anyone know? From what dodger said, it seems like space is already limited between the chain stay and chain ring.

    Thanks in advance!

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    Seb- I ordered the coil and was told the XL comes with a 500lb spring, not sure about the other sizes. I'll need to swap mine out for probably a 450 at 175 lbs.

    Is anyone else experience creaky frames or any other issues? That is a little concerning and the last thing I want to deal with on a new bike. Hopefully it's a one-off occurrence.

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    Orbea Rallon 2018 Ride Review-screen-shot-2017-08-11-9.13.09-am.jpg

    Not sure what size this is, maybe a large..

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    Quote Originally Posted by itsscience View Post
    Seb- I ordered the coil and was told the XL comes with a 500lb spring, not sure about the other sizes. I'll need to swap mine out for probably a 450 at 175 lbs.

    Is anyone else experience creaky frames or any other issues? That is a little concerning and the last thing I want to deal with on a new bike. Hopefully it's a one-off occurrence.
    Thanks for the heads up. I contacted Orbea and they sent me back a table of air pressures for Fox forks and didn't appear to know what a coil shock was! Haha. When I explained, they said I should ask my dealer. Ironically, my dealer doesn't know and has to contact Orbea. Hope the customer service improves a bit if I require it in the future!! If I find out any more info, I will post it up here.

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    Enjoyed your review skinnybex.

    I really have to rely on others and their reviews as I simply get little time to ride my 1 bike much less a bunch others.

    A customer that can afford to rent/ buy their own bikes, and a lot of them, is really the best review you can get. Editors have the real fear of losing freebies, and guys like me can only afford 1 bike at a time and so we get emotionally invested in to it, not to mention getting little real time to swap well set up bikes.

    Thanks again!

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsscience View Post
    Seb- I ordered the coil and was told the XL comes with a 500lb spring, not sure about the other sizes. I'll need to swap mine out for probably a 450 at 175 lbs.

    Is anyone else experience creaky frames or any other issues? That is a little concerning and the last thing I want to deal with on a new bike. Hopefully it's a one-off occurrence.
    No creaks or issues with my Orbea as of yet after 5 rides. Today I rode in Sedona as I had to cancel my Whistler trip at the last minute do to some personal issues. You can also run a 34t on the bike as another owner in Vegas had that on his bike.

    Today was a mellow intro day to Sedona as I've only been here once before but I did 17 miles and 1.8k climbing. Tomorrow I'll ride Slim Shady / Hiline.

    I was also able to get my first ride on my Santa Cruz Reserve 30 wheels and I'm very very happy with the feel and compliance of the layup. They definitely feel better than my Light bike wheels and never overly harsh but never flinched one bit through the first ride. I'd say the bike is snappier accelerating and not flexy like the ARC 30's can get when punishing the bike through Gnarly lines and quick and nervy direction changes.

    The wheels are just a tad over 1,800 grams with tape and valves but the build quality is so dam nice. I ordered the SC Reserve wheels with DT350 hubs and the 36t upgrade is already installed from the factory. Wheels ratcheted fine and everything is tensioned nicely.

    I'm running Vittoria Goma 2.4" F and Morsa 2.3" R and they mounted up great and have help air and sealant perfectly. Today I ran 21 PSI front and 24 PSI rear and it was hooked up the entire ride.

    The bike is improved with the wheel upgrade no doubt and I bought through Artscyclery and the 15% off code worked and free shipping....Arts is the best !!!!

    I also added a Oneup chain/bash and install was drama free unlike on my Yeti's as it took some tweaking.
    Yeti 2020 SB165
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    Love the reviews guys. I have an rallon on order due December. One question...i have seen some with a tool pouch/bag that fits and bolts on just above the bottom bracket...does this come with the bike does anyone know or do you have to buy it separately?

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthewkeast View Post
    Love the reviews guys. I have an rallon on order due December. One question...i have seen some with a tool pouch/bag that fits and bolts on just above the bottom bracket...does this come with the bike does anyone know or do you have to buy it separately?
    The pouch does not come with the bike.
    Yeti 2020 SB165
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  82. #82
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    Hey skinny, digging the review. Can you speak more specifically to a side by side between the rallon & 5.5?

    Do you feel the slacker seat tube angle on the 5.5 vs the rallon?

    Which one puts you in a more powerful seated climbing position?

    Are the shorter stays on the rallon noticeable, more playful?

    Which one takes aquare edge hits better, both climbing under power & descending?

    Which would you take for a 25 mile backcountry ride?

    I'm going to build a bike in this category for next season & am all but settled on the rallon. However, I'm a frame up guy & right now the rallon as a frame is hard to come by. Thinking if I went 5.5 I'd use an angleset which would bring the seat tubeį, head tubeį , front center and wb more toward the current trend. Excellent input & is appreciated, thanks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Hey skinny, digging the review. Can you speak more specifically to a side by side between the rallon & 5.5?

    Do you feel the slacker seat tube angle on the 5.5 vs the rallon?

    Which one puts you in a more powerful seated climbing position?

    Are the shorter stays on the rallon noticeable, more playful?

    Which one takes aquare edge hits better, both climbing under power & descending?

    Which would you take for a 25 mile backcountry ride?

    I'm going to build a bike in this category for next season & am all but settled on the rallon. However, I'm a frame up guy & right now the rallon as a frame is hard to come by. Thinking if I went 5.5 I'd use an angleset which would bring the seat tubeį, head tubeį , front center and wb more toward the current trend. Excellent input & is appreciated, thanks.
    What is an Angleset and how many degrees can you change such as head angle?

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    Quote Originally Posted by justsendit View Post
    What is an Angleset and how many degrees can you change such as head angle?
    Offset headset cups. Not sure on how far you can go but think up to 2.5į at least. Relooking at the 66.5į head angle on the 5.5 I'd prolly keep it about there or 0.5į for 66į....not sure.
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  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post

    Do you feel the slacker seat tube angle on the 5.5 vs the rallon?

    Which one puts you in a more powerful seated climbing position?

    Are the shorter stays on the rallon noticeable, more playful?

    Which one takes aquare edge hits better, both climbing under power & descending?

    Which would you take for a 25 mile backcountry ride?

    I'm going to build a bike in this category for next season & am all but settled on the rallon. However, I'm a frame up guy & right now the rallon as a frame is hard to come by. Thinking if I went 5.5 I'd use an angleset which would bring the seat tubeį, head tubeį , front center and wb more toward the current trend. Excellent input & is appreciated, thanks.
    The STA on the Yeti isn't a problem for me and the bike is so efficient and has no business being as good as it is for a LT 29'er 160/140mm

    The Rallon is perfect for seated climbing but the slight tradeoff is the saddle can be in the way a bit when you need to climb out of the saddle since it is so steep. I just lower the dropper a tad if I need to attack a climb.

    I feel the SB5.5 takes the square edged hits better. The SI linkage does a great job of staying composed and not getting uneasy or nervy under those occurrences. The Rallon is also good but not like the Yeti.

    I'd take the SB5.5 every time for those big rides if given the choice.

    I agree that if the Yeti had a sub 66 degree HTA it would be even better than it already is.

    I love the Rallon for many of it's great qualities and when pointed down the bike has little competition for being best in class as a descender. The bike also gets you to the top with that grind it out approach since it is such a comfortable pedaler.

    The Yeti SB5.5 is damn near perfect as an all around choice and it's the more complete bike between the two. Fast and Fun even when the terrain isn't the most technical.

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    I bought my Yeti 5.5 in the huge thread discussing the bike that you started sometime back skinnybex.

    The guy I bought the bike from is a stand up guy and a dealer, and I buy parts from him all the time. He has went thru many bikes since I bought my Yeti 5.5 off of him. I asked him recently to compare all the bikes and he sort of echoed your sentiment, 'everything gets compared to the Yeti 5.5, it is the standard and I haven't found anything better yet." He gets all the new bikes too LT Hightower, newest Nomad, etc...

    Lucky for me cause I'll be on my Yeti 5.5 for several years.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    The Rallon is perfect for seated climbing but the slight tradeoff is the saddle can be in the way a bit when you need to climb out of the saddle since it is so steep. I just lower the dropper a tad if I need to attack a climb.
    In theory something to consider might be trying a super short saddle like the Specialized Power saddle for bikes like this with their steep SA. All the staff at my buddies shop in Canmore, AB rock the Power saddle, mimicking steep SA with Specialized offset dropper posts pointed forward and all are happier with this setup, and these guys are fast AM riders, not XC weenies.

    I'm excited with this new geo from the Rallon and Transition Sentinel, in theory should be less moving around the saddle needed where the Power saddle shines.

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    That's the saddle I run and I love it. In fact I have a spare one which is the base model 155mm which I'd sell to someone for $50 shipped. As I recently bought the s-works version of it
    Either way it is very comfortable and I seem to get sodomized a little less often by my saddle.

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    I got to take a Team or LTD build, not sure which as I will get the 10 and upgrade, out yesterday. In a word, this bike is dangerous. I was carrying more speed over and through stuff than I am used to on my Hightower LT and it had me coming into things overly hot on my local trails. Once I got used to that, wow, this bike is amazing. I was able to rail berms so much better, the bike just begs to be leaned over in a way the HT doesn't. It handled the small, rounded chatter, and larger square edge hits equally well, seemed to just float. I'm a long, lanky, 6'3" and the XL fit perfectly. I was able to lift the front and rear effortlessly. It's also a capable climber when what it is is taken into consideration. Seated it would climb up anything I had the legs for. I'm not sure how I feel about it during standing sprinting, either flat or down, as there was a race this weekend and I couldn't get to areas where that was possible for a sustained period. The other thing I couldn't check was manners during a big hit.

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  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    I got to take a Team or LTD build, not sure which as I will get the 10 and upgrade, out yesterday. In a word, this bike is dangerous. I was carrying more speed over and through stuff than I am used to on my Hightower LT and it had me coming into things overly hot on my local trails. Once I got used to that, wow, this bike is amazing. I was able to rail berms so much better, the bike just begs to be leaned over in a way the HT doesn't. It handled the small, rounded chatter, and larger square edge hits equally well, seemed to just float. I'm a long, lanky, 6'3" and the XL fit perfectly. I was able to lift the front and rear effortlessly. It's also a capable climber when what it is is taken into consideration. Seated it would climb up anything I had the legs for. I'm not sure how I feel about it during standing sprinting, either flat or down, as there was a race this weekend and I couldn't get to areas where that was possible for a sustained period. The other thing I couldn't check was manners during a big hit.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Coil or X2? What'd it weigh?
    Denver, CO

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Coil or X2? What'd it weigh?
    X2, no clue on the weight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    I got to take a Team or LTD build, not sure which as I will get the 10 and upgrade, out yesterday. In a word, this bike is dangerous. I was carrying more speed over and through stuff than I am used to on my Hightower LT and it had me coming into things overly hot on my local trails. Once I got used to that, wow, this bike is amazing. I was able to rail berms so much better, the bike just begs to be leaned over in a way the HT doesn't. It handled the small, rounded chatter, and larger square edge hits equally well, seemed to just float. I'm a long, lanky, 6'3" and the XL fit perfectly. I was able to lift the front and rear effortlessly. It's also a capable climber when what it is is taken into consideration. Seated it would climb up anything I had the legs for. I'm not sure how I feel about it during standing sprinting, either flat or down, as there was a race this weekend and I couldn't get to areas where that was possible for a sustained period. The other thing I couldn't check was manners during a big hit.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Can you post some pics please? thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    In theory something to consider might be trying a super short saddle like the Specialized Power saddle for bikes like this with their steep SA. All the staff at my buddies shop in Canmore, AB rock the Power saddle, mimicking steep SA with Specialized offset dropper posts pointed forward and all are happier with this setup, and these guys are fast AM riders, not XC weenies.

    I'm excited with this new geo from the Rallon and Transition Sentinel, in theory should be less moving around the saddle needed where the Power saddle shines.
    I've been running a power saddle since they came out. Won't run anything else. Road and MTB.
    Denver, CO

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by george82 View Post
    Can you post some pics please? thanks.
    Sorry, I can't. I literally picked the thing up in the middle of a field after a morning group ride. Rolled up the bike shop owner said take it, I hung my bike up and took off.

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  96. #96
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    Hi guys, I need your suggestions. I try two times the Rallon: the first was on a flat XC trail (Rallon Team with X2) and the second the same but with two short uphill (Rallon LTD with coil not for my weight). I was really impressed by the bike more the first time, I know that this is not the best for try a bike like this but I want to try it in this conditions to understand if the Rallon can be an all around bike, the second time I was more in trouble on uphill.
    I ride a Following and sometimes the slack seattube make me in trouble on long alpine uphill, so my idea is to search a more steeper seat tube angle bike and the choice is on this good looking bike. With the MYO options I set the bike starting from the TEAM version and downgrade to a DPX2 shock (more pedal friendly?) and upgrade to carbon wheels, what do you think?

  97. #97
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    The coil shock will pedal just fine, maybe better then the air but it's important to have the right spring on for your weight. Otherwise, like you experienced it will feel bad.

    If it were me I would stick with the coil, or the x2 if i really wanted it a little lighter.
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    Few q for the lucky few owners;
    -Is the 36 the new 2018 EVOL?
    -dropper on L and XL is 150mm or 175mm?
    -What tyres are you getting stock on your builds? The spec says aggressors but the pics show 3c dhf front and rear?

  99. #99
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    Just for information, I got a reply back from Orbea with the following about what stock springs come fitted with the DHX2 coil:

    S/M: 400
    LG: 450
    XL: 500

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by m789 View Post
    Few q for the lucky few owners;
    -Is the 36 the new 2018 EVOL?
    -dropper on L and XL is 150mm or 175mm?
    -What tyres are you getting stock on your builds? The spec says aggressors but the pics show 3c dhf front and rear?
    I had a demo on a large - 36 is the 2018 model, 150mm dropper on the large and DHF 2.5 / Aggressor 2.3 fitted as standard.

  101. #101
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    Thank you barbs

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    I got to take a Team or LTD build, not sure which as I will get the 10 and upgrade, out yesterday. In a word, this bike is dangerous. I was carrying more speed over and through stuff than I am used to on my Hightower LT and it had me coming into things overly hot on my local trails. Once I got used to that, wow, this bike is amazing. I was able to rail berms so much better, the bike just begs to be leaned over in a way the HT doesn't. It handled the small, rounded chatter, and larger square edge hits equally well, seemed to just float. I'm a long, lanky, 6'3" and the XL fit perfectly. I was able to lift the front and rear effortlessly. It's also a capable climber when what it is is taken into consideration. Seated it would climb up anything I had the legs for. I'm not sure how I feel about it during standing sprinting, either flat or down, as there was a race this weekend and I couldn't get to areas where that was possible for a sustained period. The other thing I couldn't check was manners during a big hit.
    How would you compare the climbing and pedal efficiency to your Hightower LT?

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbs View Post
    I had a demo on a large - 36 is the 2018 model, 150mm dropper on the large and DHF 2.5 / Aggressor 2.3 fitted as standard.
    And the model was M10?
    The technical spec on the Orbea website suggests Aggressor only (saw it is not the case in reality) and 125mm dropper regardless of the size. Would be awesome to get longer travel dropper.

  104. #104
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    No it was a team model but they had an M10 in the shop too and the tyres are the same, not sure on the dropper length though.

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    I got a RaceFace Turbine 175mm as upgrade from stock 125mm on M10 model. Not sure how much that was, something like 150$ I believe.

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    George82;
    Was it shop upgrade or direct orbea?
    Where are you from?

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by m789 View Post
    George82;
    Was it shop upgrade or direct orbea?
    Where are you from?
    It was probably through the MyO program.

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  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnil View Post
    How would you compare the climbing and pedal efficiency to your Hightower LT?
    They are both big travel trail bikes. Overall probably pretty similar but I run a Minion DHR2 on the rear of mine and the Rallon had an Agressor so big difference there. HTLT is probably better during standing pedaling on technical climbs.

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  109. #109
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    MyO in eu has only 150mm and 125 option. Thats why im so interested...

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by m789 View Post
    MyO in eu has only 150mm and 125 option. Thats why im so interested...
    Oh US it has 175mm as well. Honestly though I'll probably sell whichever and use the funds to get another Fall Line.

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  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by m789 View Post
    George82;
    Was it shop upgrade or direct orbea?
    Where are you from?
    MYO program. I took the basic M10 and added some upgrades like X2, Fox 36 kashima, the 1501 wheels... I'm from Spain and MYO configurator has the option to pick Turbine 175mm. Not sure if that option is frame dependant though,as I picked the XL size.

  112. #112
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    Anybody have time on the 18 Enduro 29er yet to compare to the rallon? Really curious about the differences in both of these bikes..

  113. #113
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    sizing advice needed

    guys, I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the Rallon M10 build with some upgrades, but I'm still hesitant on the sizing.
    I'm 6'2" with 35" inseam, slightly shorter torso and about 6'3" wingspan.

    Looks like most of the guys here over 6' are opting for an XL frame so I'm thinking about going with XL as well, but then I looked at the geo numbers and compared them against my current bike (Turner Sultan 29er in Large) and I'm bit worried about XL being bit too long.

    See below comparison chart I put together for these 2 bikes. All measurements are in mm
    Name:  Rallon vs Sultan GEO.png
Views: 4094
Size:  17.5 KB

    I'm riding Sultan with 50mm stem (swapped from original 70mm) and that's probably the shortest I would be willing to go.

    Now if I look at the comparison, reach and eff top tube numbers for L size Rallon seem to be sufficient, the only place where the L could be small is seat tube length (on Sultan I could easily go with 190mm seat post drop) as on L Rallon it's 40mm shorter than on Sultan) and possibly the stack.

    I know everyone's different, but since I have no possibility to try before buying, I'll appreciate any advice from folks who already own this bike

  114. #114
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    Note the seat tube angle of your current bike. As it's waaay slacker, it makes a bigger reach , altough this only affects when seated. The longer reach of XL rallon would be only noticed when descending.

    Besides, no way I would get L rallon with your size. You're an obvious XL.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by sekiller View Post
    guys, I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the Rallon M10 build with some upgrades, but I'm still hesitant on the sizing.
    I'm 6'2" with 35" inseam, slightly shorter torso and about 6'3" wingspan.

    Looks like most of the guys here over 6' are opting for an XL frame so I'm thinking about going with XL as well, but then I looked at the geo numbers and compared them against my current bike (Turner Sultan 29er in Large) and I'm bit worried about XL being bit too long.

    See below comparison chart I put together for these 2 bikes. All measurements are in mm
    Name:  Rallon vs Sultan GEO.png
Views: 4094
Size:  17.5 KB

    I'm riding Sultan with 50mm stem (swapped from original 70mm) and that's probably the shortest I would be willing to go.

    Now if I look at the comparison, reach and eff top tube numbers for L size Rallon seem to be sufficient, the only place where the L could be small is seat tube length (on Sultan I could easily go with 190mm seat post drop) as on L Rallon it's 40mm shorter than on Sultan) and possibly the stack.

    I know everyone's different, but since I have no possibility to try before buying, I'll appreciate any advice from folks who already own this bike
    You can ride either size. XL will be more stable but more of a handful in tight corners. L will be slightly more playful. Iím 6í1Ē and was also considering the Rallon. I compared the geometry to the Hightower and Wreckoning. I can ride the Hightower locally in XL or L. Use that experience to help guide the Rallon sizing (I would go L for myself).


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  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by sekiller View Post
    guys, I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the Rallon M10 build with some upgrades, but I'm still hesitant on the sizing.
    I'm 6'2" with 35" inseam, slightly shorter torso and about 6'3" wingspan.

    Looks like most of the guys here over 6' are opting for an XL frame so I'm thinking about going with XL as well, but then I looked at the geo numbers and compared them against my current bike (Turner Sultan 29er in Large) and I'm bit worried about XL being bit too long.

    See below comparison chart I put together for these 2 bikes. All measurements are in mm
    Name:  Rallon vs Sultan GEO.png
Views: 4094
Size:  17.5 KB

    I'm riding Sultan with 50mm stem (swapped from original 70mm) and that's probably the shortest I would be willing to go.

    Now if I look at the comparison, reach and eff top tube numbers for L size Rallon seem to be sufficient, the only place where the L could be small is seat tube length (on Sultan I could easily go with 190mm seat post drop) as on L Rallon it's 40mm shorter than on Sultan) and possibly the stack.

    I know everyone's different, but since I have no possibility to try before buying, I'll appreciate any advice from folks who already own this bike
    Definitely go with the XL. The numbers look crazy coming from where you are right now, but one ride and you will understand how much advancement has been made with geometry in the last few years. We used to be really concerned with the effective top tube measurement, but that is more of a road thing than MTB. What we should have been paying attention to is the Reach number and by that you would be riding an XS (398 on your Sultan) on almost every modern bike.

    The newer bikes are significantly faster going downhill and they need the stability of a longer wheelbase so that you don't get pitched on a regular basis. The short rear center keeps the bike very maneuverable in the tight switchbacks. Having ridden a Nomad/Bronson/Hightower/Enduro 29 I can personally say that WB really doesn't matter for getting around tight turns. There is nothing that I made on my MojoHD or old school Intense 5.5 that I can't make on an Enduro 29 or other modern bike. Just be aware that it will take 4-6 weeks to fully adapt to the new school geo. Don't expect to get on and go fast or make every turn on your first ride. Take is slow and work your way up to full speed, if you do that you will never want to get back on a shorter bike again.

  117. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Definitely go with the XL. The numbers look crazy coming from where you are right now, but one ride and you will understand how much advancement has been made with geometry in the last few years. We used to be really concerned with the effective top tube measurement, but that is more of a road thing than MTB. What we should have been paying attention to is the Reach number and by that you would be riding an XS (398 on your Sultan) on almost every modern bike.

    The newer bikes are significantly faster going downhill and they need the stability of a longer wheelbase so that you don't get pitched on a regular basis. The short rear center keeps the bike very maneuverable in the tight switchbacks. Having ridden a Nomad/Bronson/Hightower/Enduro 29 I can personally say that WB really doesn't matter for getting around tight turns. There is nothing that I made on my MojoHD or old school Intense 5.5 that I can't make on an Enduro 29 or other modern bike. Just be aware that it will take 4-6 weeks to fully adapt to the new school geo. Don't expect to get on and go fast or make every turn on your first ride. Take is slow and work your way up to full speed, if you do that you will never want to get back on a shorter bike again.
    I can second this. This bike is actually bigger than my Hightower and on the first ride it was easier to rail turns, bermed, flat, tight, it didn't matter on the Rallon. I was on a group ride with quite a few people last weekend and was on probably the biggest bike there and was the only person to clean a tight downhill switchback, mainly because the geometry let me move the backend without worry of going over the bars.

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  118. #118
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    Because the topic interests me, I ran 6' 2" and 35" inseam through the Orbea size calculator (it's in the MyO section under the "size" tab) and they put you on an XL as Salespunk and Tucker said. The sizing app has me on a L but I'm shorter with less inseam.

    Reach on Rallon: L 455 XL 485
    Hightower: L 450 XL 474
    Wreckoning: L 452 XL 472
    GG Smash: L 490

    The Hightower is shorter for sure, but can give a rough approximation. Seat angle quite a bit steeper on the Rallon though.

    More I look at the Rallon, the more I like it!
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  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Structure View Post
    Because the topic interests me, I ran 6' 2" and 35" inseam through the Orbea size calculator (it's in the MyO section under the "size" tab) and they put you on an XL as Salespunk and Tucker said. The sizing app has me on a L but I'm shorter with less inseam.

    Reach on Rallon: L 455 XL 485
    Hightower: L 450 XL 474
    Wreckoning: L 452 XL 472
    GG Smash: L 490

    The Hightower is shorter for sure, but can give a rough approximation. Seat angle quite a bit steeper on the Rallon though.

    More I look at the Rallon, the more I like it!
    I think that is why it rails better to be honest. Yes, you are further back from the front wheel but due to the larger reach number your further forward of the rear wheel. That's going to cause less of a rearward weight bias when turning. (The rear tire is going to cut a shorter path across the turn creating a weight shift rearward, why the front end gets light.) It's also going to let you not be as susceptible to OTBs due rapid deceleration events as your weight transfer will not be as extreme from front to rear.

    Seated the steep seat angle more makes up for the extra reach as you noted.

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  120. #120
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    This thread has been so useful. The only other reviews out there feel like they're all from the launch event, so thanks to all of you who've shared your insights on the bike.

    Like others, I'm caught between the 5.5 and Rallon. Tested the Yeti in Bend where it certainly felt like it climbed well, but the trails, both up and down, were generally a lot flatter than they are here in Utah.

    I love to go down, but first have to get up, and I'd love not to get dropped by the gang on every climb.

    Coming down, it's less about setting PRs than having the bike offer confidence. I've hear the Wreck described as a mistake eraser. That's the kind of thing I'm looking for when I'm pointed down.

    All that to say, it feels like the general consensus is Yeti = slightly better up, and Rallon = slightly better down (though the discussion of the Yeti taking the square hits better despite the more limited travel sort of muddles those simplifications).

    What I wondered is -

    While the Switch Infinity works wonderfully going up or down when wide open, would it improve the climbing characteristics of the Rallon to close the shock down into one of the other two settings? Philosophies on how a bike should or shouldn't be run aside, would it get me up the hill more efficiently, and potentially bring the Rallon more even with the Yeti in terms of climbing?

    My Rallon is currently due to be delivered in FEBRUARY and the bike I demoed in Bend is being sold off for a sweet price, so I'm fighting the temptation to jump ship.

    You could also just say that I can't go wrong with either and I'll chill out

  121. #121
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    I can't speak to the Rallon but I can tell you that somewhat recently I have discovered the climb switch on my Yeti 5.5 and it's actually very effective at improving extended climbing performance. It helps everything, the seat angle is better, the front end doesn't flop and steer you off trail, etc...

    I wish Fox made an electronic X2 where it automatically went in to climb mode based on the tilt of the bike, adjustable by a BT connection to correct for the shock positioning on the actual bike and personal preference. Around here we have lots of short climbs that lead right to a descend so the climb switch has limited usability cause it's hard to crest a brutal climb and then go right in to a descend while reaching down for your switch. But I have about 5 significant climbs where it is quite useful.

  122. #122
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    There's a killer review on endurotribe.com - it's in french but you can google translate it - . Basically it says that Rallon becomes the new 29 Enduro benchmark.

    Sorry frankentower LT. :-D

    Besides, to all the new owners: Be careful at the frame paint seems to be delicated, at the very least.

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    I wish Fox made an electronic X2 where it automatically went in to climb mode based on the tilt of the bike, adjustable by a BT connection to correct for the shock positioning on the actual bike and personal preference.
    ^^Fox Live most closely matches what you're asking for and the Rallon is compatible with it based on the PDFs on Orbea's website.
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  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by george82 View Post
    There's a killer review on endurotribe.com - it's in french but you can google translate it - . Basically it says that Rallon becomes the new 29 Enduro benchmark.

    Sorry frankentower LT. :-D

    Besides, to all the new owners: Be careful at the frame paint seems to be delicated, at the very least.
    Here is the direct link: Verdict - Essai du Orbea Rallon R5

    The English translation is very difficult to understand.

  125. #125
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    An LBS local to me has Evil and Yeti. They claim the Yeti is very efficient, but not playful at all - it wants to stick to the ground. They promote the Wreckoning much more compared to the 5.5. The Yeti certainly is a beautiful looking bike. I am definitely looking for something playful and poppy.

  126. #126
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    Here's a brand new offering on the Rallon 2018

    https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/blog/end...ave-taken-over

  127. #127
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    Plus another superb review which was published only yesterday! I for one cannot wait for my stealth Rallon R5 to be delivered on December 1st

    https://www.mtb-mag.com/en/tested-orbea-rallon-m-team/

  128. #128
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    Cant wait to see pics of your stealth beast!

  129. #129
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    No idea how to post pictures on this forum, ridiculously complicated

  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by CircusNormal View Post
    No idea how to post pictures on this forum, ridiculously complicated
    Use Tapatalk, absurdly easy.

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  131. #131
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    No idea what that is sorry dude

  132. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by CircusNormal View Post
    No idea what that is sorry dude
    It's an app for smartphones that allows easy use of forums.

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  133. #133
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    Yeah did that but canít find the thread

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by CircusNormal View Post
    Yeah did that but canít find the thread
    This should get you a notification if signed in.

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  135. #135
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    Just figure it out by 1st dec ;ó)

  136. #136
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    Signed in under CircusNormal, followed MTBR, no Rallon review thread

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy87 View Post
    Just figure it out by 1st dec ;ó)
    Just worked it out


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  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy87 View Post
    Just figure it out by 1st dec ;ó)




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  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy87 View Post
    Just figure it out by 1st dec ;ó)
    Got a Kashima dropper to go on there too


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  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy87 View Post
    Just figure it out by 1st dec ;ó)




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    Anybody have time on the '18 enduro 29 to compare?

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    Iíve spent the last month or so riding two different Rallon builds. The purple was an M-LTD (minus the carbon wheels) while the red is the M-10 build (plus Santa Cruz Reserve 30 wheelset). Both bikes performed very well, the only noticeable differences were how smooth the XX1 drivetrain was and suspension modulation. Iím currently on the M-10 build and itís been incredible (the suspension has been setup better than the M-LTD - which was someone elseís bike that I didnít want to tweak too much.)

    I agree with most everything skinnybex has said. It pedals like a long travel 29 should. I feel the the acceleration has a lot more to do with wheels and tires. But the Rallon is noticeably slower accelerating in comparison with my previous bikes, again - bigger meats.

    Anyone that says 29ers canít turn needs to take one of these out for a few rides. This bike feels better than any of the others Iíve been on through high speed tight turns. Iíve been demoing a lot of different bikes in the past few months and I canít believe how stable the Rallon is.

    Small details - The X2 air valve protrudes a hair more than the other shocks and I would catch my leg on it every now and then (tight switchbacks that require the rider to shift one way or another)

    The first time my riding buddies see this bike the first thing out of each of their mouths is ďthat thing is massiveĒ followed by how good they think it looks.

    Skinny pointed out that they arenít very well supported in the USA vs Europe and SA but that he had a good experience with them.

    Theyíve been having issues with the custom paint and Iíve been annoying them quite a bit, but they have gone above and beyond to sort me out. Iíve been blown away at the response Iíve received.

    Itís hard to find a bad bike these days, but this thing has got me ďpelando la mazorcaĒ (grinning ear to ear). Itís one of those bikes thatís got me excited to ride every day.


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  143. #143
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    Another quick note - the steep seat angle has been great, but it does take some getting used to. So glad they kept the seat tube short on this frame as I have short legs, I can run a 170mm dropper no problem!

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    Good to hear more positive feedback. What are the paint issues? Is the M-LTD an XL? How do you find the stand over clearance to be and what is your height?

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsscience View Post
    Good to hear more positive feedback. What are the paint issues? Is the M-LTD an XL? How do you find the stand over clearance to be and what is your height?
    I guess the process for painting the new Rallon frames wasnít cutting it, hence the long wait times for MyO custom builds. But Iíve been told that theyíve revamped the process and it should speed things up significantly.

    Both frames are Large. Iím 5í10Ē with a short inseam. Not much clearance for me on the L, but itís not an issue for me at all


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    Ok cool, thanks for the clarification.

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    The local orbea rep ended up loaning me his personal lrg to demo for a couple days. Have been stunned by the efforts of my local shop and the orbea rep to answer all my questions and get me the opportunity to be fully satisfied with the bike before purchasing.

    Took it to the trails I regularly lap thinking I'd see how much it held me back going up in exchange for more fun coming down.

    Ended up with PRs on both climbs and fairly typical times coming down.

    Think the fairly flowy nature of the downhill probably wasn't the challenge that something chunkier and steeper would have been so there wasn't much of a time difference, but the bike felt super planted in corners and didn't blink when I put it in the air.

    Uphill I was probably pushing more than I normally would just because I was so sure I was going to be held back by the bike. Instead I ended up way out ahead of my previous times, so without being too scientific about it, I ended up feeling like when you want to go after a climb the bike isn't really going to limit you.

    Ended up letting go of the yeti demo and settling in for the long wait for my rallon to arrive.

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  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninguno View Post


    while the red is the M-10 build (plus Santa Cruz Reserve 30 wheelset).
    Hi,

    What is the length of the seatpost in M10?
    Were you able to weigh it?

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killen8 View Post
    The local orbea rep ended up loaning me his personal lrg to demo for a couple days. Have been stunned by the efforts of my local shop and the orbea rep to answer all my questions and get me the opportunity to be fully satisfied with the bike before purchasing.

    Took it to the trails I regularly lap thinking I'd see how much it held me back going up in exchange for more fun coming down.

    Ended up with PRs on both climbs and fairly typical times coming down.

    Think the fairly flowy nature of the downhill probably wasn't the challenge that something chunkier and steeper would have been so there wasn't much of a time difference, but the bike felt super planted in corners and didn't blink when I put it in the air.

    Uphill I was probably pushing more than I normally would just because I was so sure I was going to be held back by the bike. Instead I ended up way out ahead of my previous times, so without being too scientific about it, I ended up feeling like when you want to go after a climb the bike isn't really going to limit you.

    Ended up letting go of the yeti demo and settling in for the long wait for my rallon to arrive.

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    Which yeti demo, 5.5? You rode both?
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  150. #150
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    Yes. Had a chance to ride rallon and 5.5

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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Which yeti demo, 5.5? You rode both?
    Yes, got to ride both

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameyo View Post
    Hi,

    What is the length of the seatpost in M10?
    Were you able to weigh it?
    The M-10 builds come with 125 droppers. I rode the 175 dropper on the LTD and it was slammed, it felt a touch to high for my short legs. Iíll be swapping out for a 150 fox transfer


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  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killen8 View Post
    Yes. Had a chance to ride rallon and 5.5

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    Can you compare the 2 from your demo?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Can you compare the 2 from your demo?
    I can. Probably not to the extent of others here though as the demos, particularly the yeti, were limited.

    Bottom line, both fantastic.

    In my experience the rallon felt burlier but actually climbed every bit as well as the 5.5.

    The 5.5 handled everything I threw at it, but on long rocky sections I felt things a bit more than I expected. Nothing problematic. Just live rather than plush, which isn't a bad thing.

    Both jumped well enough for me. Yeti seemed smoother, possibly because it was xo vs gx and possibly just because it was better serviced.

    I went with rallon mostly because I like potential of longer travel for trips to Moab and St George and I dig my paint scheme

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  155. #155
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    Purple color scheme is rad. Love it.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameyo View Post
    Hi,

    What is the length of the seatpost in M10?
    Were you able to weigh it?
    Oh, and I did weigh the M-10 - 31.8 w/XT trail pedals. I dropped 300 grams with the carbon wheels.


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    Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated. For sake of clarity 31.8 is after or before the carbon wheels upgrade?

    That's a pity they do not differentiate seatpost length between the sizes.

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameyo View Post
    Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated. For sake of clarity 31.8 is after or before the carbon wheels upgrade?

    That's a pity they do not differentiate seatpost length between the sizes.
    31.8lbs stock, set up tubeless. Dropped a little over a half a pound with the Santa Cruz wheelset (heavy for carbon). The reserve 30ía weighed 1840 with XD driver while the DT 1900ís came in at 2140. I Believe the XMC 1200ís are under 1500 grams

    Yeah, bummer on the post sizing. I wasnít impressed with the stock aeffect post


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  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killen8 View Post
    I can. Probably not to the extent of others here though as the demos, particularly the yeti, were limited.

    Bottom line, both fantastic.

    In my experience the rallon felt burlier but actually climbed every bit as well as the 5.5.

    The 5.5 handled everything I threw at it, but on long rocky sections I felt things a bit more than I expected. Nothing problematic. Just live rather than plush, which isn't a bad thing.

    Both jumped well enough for me. Yeti seemed smoother, possibly because it was xo vs gx and possibly just because it was better serviced.

    I went with rallon mostly because I like potential of longer travel for trips to Moab and St George and I dig my paint scheme

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    As good of a review as any...thanks. Rallon is such a sick bike, enjoy it!
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    I'd just like to know, how big of a difference is there between the DPX2 and X2 shocks?

    I'm just about to order the M-10 but I can't decide if to go for the X2 as I'm on a budget.
    I'm ordering the bike with the RC2 fork and the Turbine seatpost, as the stock one is too short and the rest I'll upgrade in time.

  161. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by _prodigy_ View Post
    I'd just like to know, how big of a difference is there between the DPX2 and X2 shocks?

    I'm just about to order the M-10 but I can't decide if to go for the X2 as I'm on a budget.
    I'm ordering the bike with the RC2 fork and the Turbine seatpost, as the stock one is too short and the rest I'll upgrade in time.
    I rode the bike with both, around 150 miles on each. The X2 felt more stable and composed while the DPX2 has been more poppy and playful. Both felt great, and if you're on a budget, I think the DPX2 will work great for you. Maybe someone more advanced than me would be able to tell more of a difference, but for me, the biggest change between the two is tune-ability of the X2.

  162. #162
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    Go for X2 if you aim for burlier terrain and aggresive riding. I think that X2 is more suited for long descents -it can be seen mounted on lots of pro DH bikes - while DPX2 is more of an all mountain shock.

    In my case as I plan to keep the hightower - man I love that bike - I went full gnar with the X2 - RC36 :-D

  163. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by _prodigy_ View Post
    I'd just like to know, how big of a difference is there between the DPX2 and X2 shocks?

    I'm just about to order the M-10 but I can't decide if to go for the X2 as I'm on a budget.
    I'm ordering the bike with the RC2 fork and the Turbine seatpost, as the stock one is too short and the rest I'll upgrade in time.
    To me the difference is huge. The X2 is just an all-around better shock for not much of a weight penalty.

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  164. #164
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    No one has received and weighed a Team build with a DHX2 yet have they? Size Large preferably...
    Denver, CO

  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    No one has received and weighed a Team build with a DHX2 yet have they? Size Large preferably...
    The Large Team I demo'd weighed 31.25 lb as shipped with tubes and my XT pedals on it. Converted to tubeless and no pedals it weighed 30 lb. The weight was the principal detractor for me. That's almost a full 2 lb heavier than my Tracer. If it was just an enduro race bike I wouldn't care so much but for me it has to be my one do everything bike and that extra 2 lbs is noticeable on all day epics and on HABs.

    Hell of a bike though.

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    The Large Team I demo'd weighed 31.25 lb as shipped with tubes and my XT pedals on it. Converted to tubeless and no pedals it weighed 30 lb. The weight was the principal detractor for me. That's almost a full 2 lb heavier than my Tracer. If it was just an enduro race bike I wouldn't care so much but for me it has to be my one do everything bike and that extra 2 lbs is noticeable on all day epics and on HABs.

    Hell of a bike though.
    That was with the Float X2. You can do the math for the incremental addition of the DHX2.

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    The Large Team I demo'd weighed 31.25 lb as shipped with tubes and my XT pedals on it. Converted to tubeless and no pedals it weighed 30 lb. The weight was the principal detractor for me. That's almost a full 2 lb heavier than my Tracer. If it was just an enduro race bike I wouldn't care so much but for me it has to be my one do everything bike and that extra 2 lbs is noticeable on all day epics and on HABs.

    Hell of a bike though.
    What review had the bike weighing 28.5lb with coil in a size large then? I can't seem to find it now... People need to be held accountable for that bullshit.

    edit:

    27.3 pounds according to bike radar. I guess they weighed it without the wheels. Oh wait, that's the LTD model. I'm sure it's 4 pounds lighter then the team

    Orbea Rallon M-Team first ride review - BikeRadar

    I'd be pretty pissed if I ordered one without being able to see it in person and weigh it. I don't doubt it's an awesome bike but so is every other current 150mm/160mm travel 29'er with modern geometry. The fact that it was supposedly under 28lb was the biggest "wow" factor for me if I bought one as a do everything bike.
    Denver, CO

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    What review had the bike weighing 28.5lb with coil in a size large then? I can't seem to find it now... People need to be held accountable for that bullshit.

    edit:

    27.3 pounds according to bike radar. I guess they weighed it without the wheels. Oh wait, that's the LTD model. I'm sure it's 4 pounds lighter then the team

    Orbea Rallon M-Team first ride review - BikeRadar
    I hear ya. I drove an hour to the nearest dealer and had him special order that bike as a demo all predicated on the weight. I don't even consider myself a weight weenie and I know there's some variation in carbon layup but that review and or bike reviewed was either hand selected or straight bullshit.

    The wheels on the LTD are damn feathery and can shed another 300+/- grams but that's just throwing money at the problem. I still suggest demo'ing if you haven't. The slack HA/short offset, steep SA is no bullshit. My other nitpicks were catching my knee pad on the poorly placed shock fill and chain slap on the very close chainstay (that could likely be quieted). Otherwise it's in a class of its own.

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    I hear ya. I drove an hour to the nearest dealer and had him special order that bike as a demo all predicated on the weight. I don't even consider myself a weight weenie and I know there's some variation in carbon layup but that review and or bike reviewed was either hand selected or straight bullshit.

    The wheels on the LTD are damn feathery and can shed another 300+/- grams but that's just throwing money at the problem. I still suggest demo'ing if you haven't. The slack HA/short offset, steep SA is no bullshit. My other nitpicks were catching my knee pad on the poorly placed shock fill and chain slap on the very close chainstay (that could likely be quieted). Otherwise it's in a class of its own.
    The problem is there are a lot of bikes out with that same geometry now. Off the top of my head

    Guerilla Gravity Smash and MegaTrail
    Spec Enduro (for 2 years now)
    Intense Carbine
    Spot Mayhem and Rollik
    Transition Sentinel

    Basically every modern long travel bike is copying the slack HTA/Steep STA geometry. Nothing sets the Orbea apart if it's 30-32lb like everything else, and it's a relatively unknown company in the US outside of road biking. I wish more companies would release frame with shock weights. That would be the easiest way to weed out the BS. I think everything currently made with the ability to take abuse is going to be between 6.5-7.5lb even for full carbon which translates into a bike in the low 30's complete.

    Regardless the Rallon looks sweet.
    Denver, CO

  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    I still suggest demo'ing if you haven't. The slack HA/short offset, steep SA is no bullshit. My other nitpicks were catching my knee pad on the poorly placed shock fill and chain slap on the very close chainstay (that could likely be quieted). Otherwise it's in a class of its own.
    This has to be the best summation Iíve heard thus far. Exactly how I feel about it!


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  171. #171
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    It's almost impossible to get a true Enduro Style bike to less than 30 lb. I threw the whole damn credit card at my Yeti 5.5 and I got to 29# on the dot.

    Very similar to the Rallon weight.

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  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    It's almost impossible to get a true Enduro Style bike to less than 30 lb. I threw the whole damn credit card at my Yeti 5.5 and I got to 29# on the dot.

    Very similar to the Rallon weight.

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    IDK, seams $7k will buy you many boutique brand carbon frame/Al wheel XO1 bikes that hit the 29lb mark w/o pedals. Personally I was ready to throw down $1k premium for the Rallon but couldn't get my head around spending that much for what amounted to a 1.75lb weight penalty to my current Tracer.

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    IDK, seams $7k will buy you many boutique brand carbon frame/Al wheel XO1 bikes that hit the 29lb mark w/o pedals. Personally I was ready to throw down $1k premium for the Rallon but couldn't get my head around spending that much for what amounted to a 1.75lb weight penalty to my current Tracer.
    You're not comparing apples to apples vis a vis the Tracer.

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  174. #174
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    Tracer has 10mm more travel but 27.5 vs 29.

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    Tracer has 10mm more travel but 27.5 vs 29.
    Right, Carbine would be a more direct comparison.

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  176. #176
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    All the modern CF frames weigh within 1# of each other, the rest is just how it's built and a lot of that is determined by the intended application.
    I played with some light weight parts and many really reduce the usefulness of the bike itself.
    CF rims and light hubs work well, no downside.
    CF frame is the bomb.
    I really like my CF KS LEV dropper post although I had to swap the crappy lightweight remote for something heavier that actually works.
    I found a very lightweight seat that works well for me, but it's not as comfortable as the same exact seat and size in the cheap version that had more padding.
    I added the trickest 4 piston Magura brakes, work well but still heavier than my old xtrs. Added some expensive lightweight brake rotors that work well but they were pricy, cheap ones overheat easily.
    Replacement front and rear axles saved weight with no downside to me.
    I run magnesium flat pedals. Works great.
    I needed more shock and gained weight there.
    Smaller forks save weight but suck. Added Avy cartridges to the fork and gained weight again.
    Obviously we are all tubeless but I tried light weight fast rolling tires, that was a disaster. Flats, poor traction, moved under load so the heavy tires went right back on.
    I tried a lightweight cassette, shifted poorly, had to go back to oem stuff, even buying the best gained weight again.
    Needed a chain guard cause I smash my bikes. That was all weight gain although I once again bought what I consider the best.
    Had to go to a bigger front chain rotor and longer chain cause my anti squat wasn't right with the smaller chain ring. Added weight again.

    I swapped all hardware for Ti, no appreciable difference.

    See where I'm going with this? The parts you need, are often not the lightest you can buy, even after spending lots of cash.

    I will say this, I was shuttling yesterday with some guys and when I unloaded their bikes off the tailgate pad there was a very noticeable weight difference.

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    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 11-05-2017 at 05:11 AM.

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    All the modern CF frames weigh within 1# of each other,
    I used to think the same thing. But do the math on the high spec components on the Rallon Team and you'll find the frame is >1.5 lb heavier than the Carbine or Hightower.

    Look at the new Kona Process 153...it's >9lb, that's downright pig territory.

  178. #178
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    I really can't see there being that much difference between the Tracer and Rallon, particularly as this top end Tracer build seems to be coming out at 29lb. Stick some carbon wheels on the Rallon Team and I can't see you'd notice the difference.

    Intense Tracer 275 C 2017 Factory review, first ride and specs review - BikeRadar

  179. #179
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    Any body been able to fit a large bottle in an XL frame? My local shop only has a small frame in stock.

  180. #180
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    I've been riding a Large frame with the 21oz insulated Camelback bottle in sideloader cage, I posted pictures earlier on. The cage bolts sit pretty high up on the downtube, to accommodate the toolbag that Orbea will make for these frames. So I had to drill out new holes in the cage in order to offset it. I might even be able to squeeze the 25oz bottle in there now. The XL should be able to fit most bottles depending on the cage you use and how you mount it.

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    Thanks, I missed that pic somehow. Yeah, it looked like there was a huge gap below the bottle mount, but it was hard looking at the small frame in the shop trying to visualize a bottle in there.

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    Personally I was ready to throw down $1k premium for the Rallon but couldn't get my head around spending that much for what amounted to a 1.75lb weight penalty to my current Tracer.
    I don't think it's really a 1k premium, at least not at the M10 level. If you do the Myo program, for $5400 you build out a GX eagle build with fox factory front and rear with a piggyback, with xt brakes. An Intense or Santa Cruz with GX within a couple hundred, doesn't have piggy back shocks, and the base Fox performance 36. Specialized has weird builds at that price using 1x11 gx, not eagle.

    And you get a paint color choice. Sure the DT 1900 wheels suck, but so do the comparable from the other companies at that price. For 6-800 you can build a nice AL wheelset, maybe a shop will give credit for the stock wheels or you get a spare set. At about $5,500 I've priced it with a 170 dropper and Rotor oval ring. not too shabby.

    My big question with Orbea is durability and support in the US, I've heard questionable levels of both in the past regarding their road lines, I think one shop near Denver dropped them for that reason. And, I'd like to get at least a parking lot test on the thing, my local shop has yet to get anything other than a small delivered yet.

  183. #183
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    Here's another interesting review:

    Orbea Rallon R5 2018 Review-BasqueMTB

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbs View Post
    Here's another interesting review:

    Orbea Rallon R5 2018 Review-BasqueMTB
    Can't trust any of the review when the company is bringing in helicopters.... it's obvious by him quoting the weight at 27.5 when we learned here that's at least 3lb off. That's insane.
    Denver, CO

  185. #185
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    You're comparing an M10 weight (reported here) with the M Ltd reported weight, so not exactly apples with apples!

    Whilst it would be useful to have a real owner of an M Ltd verify the weight there are plenty of M Teams out there at 30lb which would be 29lb with the carbon wheels so at least in the ball park with all the other long travel 29ers out there.

  186. #186
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    Guys

    Really love that bike. Not quiet sure about the sizing. I am 5"8.50 tall and Orbea tells me I am between sizes S/M and L.

    Is it totally off to go with the Large?

    Currently I have a 2015 Trek Slash with a 440 Reach. I actually dont wann go smaller but I am bit afraid that the Large Rallon is (or feels) just to big of a bike for me...

    Please advice!

  187. #187
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    Itís not too large for you. Theyíre an odd size really. Always go bigger


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  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy87 View Post
    Guys

    Really love that bike. Not quiet sure about the sizing. I am 5"8.50 tall and Orbea tells me I am between sizes S/M and L.

    Is it totally off to go with the Large?

    Currently I have a 2015 Trek Slash with a 440 Reach. I actually dont wann go smaller but I am bit afraid that the Large Rallon is (or feels) just to big of a bike for me...

    Please advice!
    Thatís weird because I am 5í10Ē+ and Orbea told me to go S/M. I went with the large anyway and it feels great. It seems that I am on the edge though.

    Do you have access to any demos?


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    Iíve had a go on an XL and still feel I needed more room. Iím just shy of six foot. Itís up to you though mate


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    Thanks guys.

    It Looks like the Orbea calculator is all about inseam.
    At 5"10 I definitely would go with the large and I cant see why they told you to go with an S/M...?

    The guy who wrote the Pinkbike first ride Review is only 5"7 and he Chose the Large as well... kind of confusing.

    I measured my inseam to 32" even though I thought I had short legs (never found Jeans that I didnt have to cut down )...

    As of right now, I am leaning towards a large with a short 32mm stem. This would mean in the end, its just 8mm longer than my current slash with 440 reach and 40mm stem. Just not sure if the bike under me would feel too big. I like going fast more than a playfull ride though and it would be my Endurobike for races.

    I wanna get one for season 2019, so hopefully I can demoride these rockets next season!

  191. #191
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    Over at Pinkbike a guy weigh his new Large Rallon Team built. Came in at 29.10 lbs without pedals. Not too bad I think!

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    Anyone expecting their Rallon in December? I was just told by Orbea today that it is now pushed out until January sometime. Just curious is this is a common theme. The original due date when I ordered was September...

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    you should not complain. Mine was ordered beginning of October and the confirmed date of delivery is April 3rd.

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    I'm not so much complaining, more curious if my order got pushed back later than others who we're on the same timeline. Your wait time is the same as mine, I ordered mine the first week of August. Both 6 months.

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy87 View Post
    Over at Pinkbike a guy weigh his new Large Rallon Team built. Came in at 29.10 lbs without pedals. Not too bad I think!
    But the review shows it on the scale... with pedals at 27.5.
    Denver, CO

  196. #196
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    Which review?

  197. #197
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    The review is of a Ltd model with carbon wheels.

  198. #198
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    And its weighed WITHOUT pedals...

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsscience View Post
    Anyone expecting their Rallon in December? I was just told by Orbea today that it is now pushed out until January sometime. Just curious is this is a common theme. The original due date when I ordered was September...
    My brother and I both ordered Rallons in Mid July and they were due in at the end of September. As it got nearer to this date, it got pushed back a month. At the end of October, it got pushed back another month. I have just found out that they won't arrive until the end of December now. Apparently. They haven't given a reason for the delays and it is always me/my LBS who has to chase them to get any info. Really really frustrating. I will try and email them to find out what is taking so long. I have lost faith entirely in their promise date of the bikes! I wish they would just be honest and upfront about any issues they are having! Rant over.

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbs View Post
    The review is of a Ltd model with carbon wheels.
    My mistake I thought the team build was top of line. That guys bike on PB also had an x2 not a dhx2 like the review that showed 27.3lb. Unless theyíre running 600g pedals itís still BS.

    29.1 was also without pedals so unless the team build has really shitty wheels you arenít taking 2 pounds off buy adding a coil shock and carbon wheels. Even without the added weight off the coil you still arenít taking 2 pounds off from carbon wheels alone.
    Denver, CO

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