New Oiz - Page 7- Mtbr.com
Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567
Results 1,201 to 1,217 of 1217

Thread: New Oiz

  1. #1201
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    5,260
    Quote Originally Posted by madskatingcow View Post
    @WR304, with all the problems encountered so far, is this going to be your first and last Orbea? Seems like Specialized gave you a lot less issues?
    It's one of those cases where I've been posting more on here about niggles with the bike, as they might be helpful for other people to know in advance what to fix, rather than the positives.

    I've done just over 400 hours riding on this bike now and there's a lot to like about my 2020 Orbea Oiz.

    In its current build, as pictured below, it climbs really well - I've been gradually re-writing my uphill climbing personal bests on Strava all year. Even on a bad day I'll be going along on the flat feeling rough and then the bike comes alive as soon as the climbing starts.

    It goes downhill well too. I've also been re-writing a lot of my descending personal bests all year. The combination of being able to have full open active suspension at will (rather than the Epic brain lockout suspension), wider 29x2.3" tyres and the XT M8120 4 piston brakes is confidence inspiring and measurably quicker. On this bike I've been braking later with more g force, carrying higher corner speeds and in particular way quicker on anything rough than I was on an Epic.

    Where I've done longer rides on it I've been getting off the bike post ride still in good shape, not too beaten up, and I even did a 29 minute 10 mile time trial on the road the other day so performance wise it's doing all I expect from it.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/xc-racing-tr...g-1148025.html

    Component wise the DT Swiss XRC 1200 wheels have been good. The carbon rims seat tubeless tyres easily and have stayed true whilst the DT 180s hubs are smooth running.

    The SRAM AXS electronic gears have been trouble free so far too and the rest of the drivetrain has been holding up well. I'm still on the original Shimano XTR M9100 cassette that came with the bike although it has had a fresh XTR M9100 chain fitted.

    The Shimano XT M8120 4 pot brakes work well, particularly since I switched the brake pads from stock shimano metallic to Swisstop Disc 27 organic pads which offer an improvement in feel I think, along with being quieter.

    The Power2Max Ng Eco power meter has been reliable with no data dropouts.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-mirror-saddle-side.jpg

  2. #1202
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joshua_B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    288

    Slipping post

    Has anyone had a problem with their seat-post slipping. I just bought a 2021 OIZ and I have tried everything to get the post to stop slipping. I also have tried three different seat-posts. I think it might be the clamp, but I was just curious if anyone else has had this issue?

  3. #1203
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Has anyone had a problem with their seat-post slipping. I just bought a 2021 OIZ and I have tried everything to get the post to stop slipping. I also have tried three different seat-posts. I think it might be the clamp, but I was just curious if anyone else has had this issue?
    Nope.

    I'm assuming you've tried carbon paste?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  4. #1204
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joshua_B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    288
    Yea, I'm hoping I don't have a frame issue.....

  5. #1205
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Yea, I'm hoping I don't have a frame issue.....
    Mines a 2019/2020 version, so could be different!

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  6. #1206
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    5,260
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Has anyone had a problem with their seat-post slipping. I just bought a 2021 OIZ and I have tried everything to get the post to stop slipping. I also have tried three different seat-posts. I think it might be the clamp, but I was just curious if anyone else has had this issue?
    If you take the seatpost clamp off and try just the seatpost in the frame with no clamp is it a really loose fit? If you measure the diameter of the seatpost, and also the diameter of the inside of the frame seat tube with a digital caliper are they both in spec? They should be 31.6mm diameter.

    As you've tried three seat posts it's possible that the frame seat tube diameter is a little too large. I'd try the suggestions below. You'll need to cut the KCNC SC13 clamp in half as just the top 31.6mm half will fit (not the frame section). That plus the shim of electrical tape to wedge the seat post in the frame ought to fix it.

    That will work better by spreading the load over two clamps, rather than just tightening down the single existing clamp tighter and tighter as that could damage the seatpost, and still slip anyway.

    ------------------------------
    Post #933

    The FSA K-Force Light carbon seatpost on my 2020 Orbea Oiz has been fine with just carbon paste. It hasn't slipped at all.

    I have had issues on some of my older bikes though. What I did on my 2012 Specialized Epic was to use half a KCNC SC13 double seatpost clamp.

    https://www.bike24.com/p232618.html

    On the 2012 Specialized Epic the KCNC SC13 clamp has the same issue as it would used on an Orbea Oiz. The lower section clamp size doesn't fit the frame so that although the top clamp section will fit the 31.6mm diameter seatpost the lower clamp won't fit the frame. As a work around I cut the clamp in half with a hacksaw and used just the top clamp section with the original lower clamp. That was very effective and I never had an issue with the seatpost again afterwards.

    This picture shows that bike's seatpost setup (it's now my dedicated turbo trainer bike)

    New Oiz-2012-epic-kcnc-sc13.jpg

    On my 2016 Specialized Epic that had even worse issues with the Cannondale Save 2.0 seatpost slipping down in the frame. What I eventually did on that bike was use a KCNC SC13 clamp (the full clamp fitted ok on that bike) but I also put a long strip of electrical tape down the edges of the seatpost and then wedged the whole lot into the frame seat tube so the electrical tape would act as a shim to take up the space. That fix with the electrical tape worked and the seatpost stayed put for the rest of the time I owned that bike.

  7. #1207
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WR304's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    5,260

    SRAM Eagle AXS Shifter Battery Life Update 12 September 2020


    New Oiz-sram-eagle-axs-shifter-battery-life.jpg

    https://sram.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ar...ter-batteries-

    According to the SRAM website the CR2032 battery in the shifter is supposed to last for about 2 years before needing replacing.

    The brand new Duracell CR2032 battery in my SRAM Eagle AXS shifter lasted 200 hours riding (a little under 4 months total time). At around a shift every 15 seconds that's roughly 48,000 rear shifts before the battery went flat. There was no warning at all of this beforehand riding on the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt.

    I only noticed because I was at home and by chance had the bike upside down looking at the cassette sprockets and saw there was a red light on the underside of the shifter (completely invisible unless the bike is upside down). I had it connected to the SRAM AXS app via bluetooth to check the micro adjust settings and that bluetooth connection seemed to finish it off completely. Soon after taking the app screenshot above the shifter was non functional. If I'd taken it out for the next ride without seeing that I'd have been left with a dead shifter very early on.

    It wouldn't have been a terminal issue. If this had happened mid ride I could have taken the CR2032 battery out of the bike's front wheel speed sensor and put that battery into the SRAM Eagle AXS shifter to get the shifter working again. The SRAM Eagle AXS rear derailleur also has a manual override (by pressing the AXS button on the rear derailleur) which will manually downshift to a larger sprocket so I could have used that to get back up the hill to my house if needed also.

    One press of the AXS button on the rear derailleur will shift to a smaller rear sprocket.
    Two presses of the AXS button on the rear derailleur will shift to a larger rear sprocket.

  8. #1208
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    6
    I'm considering the 2021 Oiz H10 TR as an upgrade from my current 2006 vintage 100mm Cannondale F5 hardtail.

    I'm in Southern NH so a lot of the riding is more XC oriented, lots of rocks and roots, but I'm planning to do a fair number of 'enduro' nights at my local bike park (Highlands) next year. I was there last week and started to feel a little bit under-biked on the flowy blues, and completely under-biked on the techy blues!

    Would the Oiz be a good option do you think? Order times are pretty lengthy at the moment so I want to get one locked in sooner rather than later for next spring.

  9. #1209
    achiever
    Reputation: redwarrior's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,005
    Quote Originally Posted by chiefsilverback View Post
    I'm considering the 2021 Oiz H10 TR as an upgrade from my current 2006 vintage 100mm Cannondale F5 hardtail.

    I'm in Southern NH so a lot of the riding is more XC oriented, lots of rocks and roots, but I'm planning to do a fair number of 'enduro' nights at my local bike park (Highlands) next year. I was there last week and started to feel a little bit under-biked on the flowy blues, and completely under-biked on the techy blues!

    Would the Oiz be a good option do you think? Order times are pretty lengthy at the moment so I want to get one locked in sooner rather than later for next spring.
    I'm in western MA & have ridden some stuff in southern NH such as Bear Brook & trails that were in the Hampshire 100. I'm on a 2020 Oiz M10 TR. I'm an XC rider & the bike is great for the type of trails we ride regularly. It is an XC bike with a bit of extra travel. A few weeks ago, I finally made it up to Perry Hill in Waterbury, VT. I rode some of the tougher stuff up there in the wet without trouble but I know my limits & walked some of the steeper rollers because I think at 48, I've finally learned to respect my limits a bit. I'd say that if you're doing ok at Highland on the Cannondale, you'll be more than happy on the Oiz.

  10. #1210
    LMN
    LMN is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,245
    Quote Originally Posted by chiefsilverback View Post
    I'm considering the 2021 Oiz H10 TR as an upgrade from my current 2006 vintage 100mm Cannondale F5 hardtail.

    I'm in Southern NH so a lot of the riding is more XC oriented, lots of rocks and roots, but I'm planning to do a fair number of 'enduro' nights at my local bike park (Highlands) next year. I was there last week and started to feel a little bit under-biked on the flowy blues, and completely under-biked on the techy blues!

    Would the Oiz be a good option do you think? Order times are pretty lengthy at the moment so I want to get one locked in sooner rather than later for next spring.
    The Oiz is fundamentally designed for world cup racing. That means the frame is super light. I am not sure that a super light frame is going to be best for a rider like yourself who keeps their bikes for a long time.

    If you are looking at Orbea I think the Occam might be a better fit for you.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  11. #1211
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    The Oiz is fundamentally designed for world cup racing. That means the frame is super light. I am not sure that a super light frame is going to be best for a rider like yourself who keeps their bikes for a long time.

    If you are looking at Orbea I think the Occam might be a better fit for you.
    I've only been 'seriously' riding my MTB this year, I've just had the bike for a long time. That said I would hope the frame would last for many years, given it has a lifetime warranty?

    My worry about going for something like the Occam with more travel is losing climbing ability. I did a 2 hour 'enduro' session at my local bike park last week and I was able to put in 6 full laps, 13.5 miles and 3,300' climbed. The only person to pass me on the uphill was on an e-bike. That sets my benchmark for what I need a bike to do.

    I'm also considering a longer travel hardtail, but with all the rocks and roots around here the prospect of some rear suspension is quite appealing.

  12. #1212
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    3,097
    Quote Originally Posted by chiefsilverback View Post
    I've only been 'seriously' riding my MTB this year, I've just had the bike for a long time. That said I would hope the frame would last for many years, given it has a lifetime warranty?

    My worry about going for something like the Occam with more travel is losing climbing ability. I did a 2 hour 'enduro' session at my local bike park last week and I was able to put in 6 full laps, 13.5 miles and 3,300' climbed. The only person to pass me on the uphill was on an e-bike. That sets my benchmark for what I need a bike to do.

    I'm also considering a longer travel hardtail, but with all the rocks and roots around here the prospect of some rear suspension is quite appealing.
    To have a bike that's going to last, especially at a bike park, you are going to have to sacrifice some climbing ability over an XC race rig. There is no way I would take my Oiz to a bike park. It's just not the correct bike for the job and is likely to come back broken.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

  13. #1213
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    To have a bike that's going to last, especially at a bike park, you are going to have to sacrifice some climbing ability over an XC race rig. There is no way I would take my Oiz to a bike park. It's just not the correct bike for the job and is likely to come back broken.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    The vast majority of my riding will be on the more XC oriented trails in the area. I've been to the bike park 3 times this year and as a relatively novice 39 year old rider I'm not looking for a bike to 'send it' down a double black. Actually in my immediate area something that can cover some pavement or gravel roads to get between sections of trail would also be a bonus!

    Looking back at my MTB rides over the last few weeks:

    10 miles - 1000' climb
    14 miles - 1000' climb
    13.5 miles - 3300' climb - bike park
    9 miles - 750' climb
    9 miles - 2000' climb - bike park
    8.5 miles - 1000' climb

    All of this is on blue and green terrain, varying from smooth flow at the bike park, to very rocky and rooty trails in the local state parks.

    In an ideal world I'd be able to go to an MTB show/festival and demo a number of options, but I don't know when those are going to happen again?

  14. #1214
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    3,097
    Quote Originally Posted by chiefsilverback View Post
    The vast majority of my riding will be on the more XC oriented trails in the area. I've been to the bike park 3 times this year and as a relatively novice 39 year old rider I'm not looking for a bike to 'send it' down a double black. Actually in my immediate area something that can cover some pavement or gravel roads to get between sections of trail would also be a bonus!

    Looking back at my MTB rides over the last few weeks:

    10 miles - 1000' climb
    14 miles - 1000' climb
    13.5 miles - 3300' climb - bike park
    9 miles - 750' climb
    9 miles - 2000' climb - bike park
    8.5 miles - 1000' climb

    All of this is on blue and green terrain, varying from smooth flow at the bike park, to very rocky and rooty trails in the local state parks.

    In an ideal world I'd be able to go to an MTB show/festival and demo a number of options, but I don't know when those are going to happen again?
    In all honesty as a novice rider you're probably going to be rougher on the bike more often than someone that is ripping double blacks. Part of being able to do that is being able to ride smooth which is a learned skill, bump jump here, unweight here, makeshift berm there, prejump now, etc.

    If you're not going to be exclusively XC racing it and are going to be hitting jumps, as a novice, then a good pedaling trail bike is going to be a better fit and probably make you a better rider more quickly, the Oiz is not a forgiving bike. The TR is a bit of a misnomer as it's still not a real trail bike even in 120mm form.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

  15. #1215
    LMN
    LMN is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,245
    Quote Originally Posted by chiefsilverback View Post
    I've only been 'seriously' riding my MTB this year, I've just had the bike for a long time. That said I would hope the frame would last for many years, given it has a lifetime warranty?

    My worry about going for something like the Occam with more travel is losing climbing ability. I did a 2 hour 'enduro' session at my local bike park last week and I was able to put in 6 full laps, 13.5 miles and 3,300' climbed. The only person to pass me on the uphill was on an e-bike. That sets my benchmark for what I need a bike to do.

    I'm also considering a longer travel hardtail, but with all the rocks and roots around here the prospect of some rear suspension is quite appealing.
    I have gotten really good life out of my Oiz. It is pushing 6000km and I expect to get another 4000km out of it. But the frame is super light, and is vulnerable to crash damage. Crash damage isn't covered under warrantee.

    I have an Oiz and Occam. The Occam is really good climbing bike, but there is no doubt that Oiz climbs better. Just as the Oiz is a great descending bike but the Occam is better.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  16. #1216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    396
    Well.... A while ago someone posted about losing the little expanding cable stops that go into the ports on the rear triangle to hold the rear hose and rear cable outer.

    They lost it *into* the rear triangle.

    Well.... I did the same thing today! It's pretty easy to do if you're not paying attention, it's a sliding expanding bolt in two halves. The bottom half is female, and top male. If you unscrew the top part too far, the bottom part will release and end up inside the rear triangle.

    So. If you do this. You are pretty f*cked.

    I managed to get it out, but it took some doing.

    For anyone that suffers this, here's what I did:

    Remove the rear triangle - take off the rear mech and caliper, and remove the cable outer and hose from the triangle.

    Shake and manipulate the triangle until you hear the loose part move into the non-drive side. Get an 8mm spanner, dip the ring end in some very thick grease, and then pop that into the brake caliper hose port. Then shake the triangle gently, until it sticks to the spanner and grease.

    Carefully remove the spanner, and the loose part will come out with it.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  17. #1217
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    8,772
    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Well.... A while ago someone posted about losing the little expanding cable stops that go into the ports on the rear triangle to hold the rear hose and rear cable outer.

    They lost it *into* the rear triangle.

    Well.... I did the same thing today! It's pretty easy to do if you're not paying attention, it's a sliding expanding bolt in two halves. The bottom half is female, and top male. If you unscrew the top part too far, the bottom part will release and end up inside the rear triangle.

    So. If you do this. You are pretty f*cked.

    I managed to get it out, but it took some doing.

    For anyone that suffers this, here's what I did:

    Remove the rear triangle - take off the rear mech and caliper, and remove the cable outer and hose from the triangle.

    Shake and manipulate the triangle until you hear the loose part move into the non-drive side. Get an 8mm spanner, dip the ring end in some very thick grease, and then pop that into the brake caliper hose port. Then shake the triangle gently, until it sticks to the spanner and grease.

    Carefully remove the spanner, and the loose part will come out with it.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Tele...s%2C137&sr=8-4
    Ripley LS v3
    OG Ripley v2 handed down to son

Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567

Similar Threads

  1. 2017 Orbea Oiz
    By RashadF in forum XC Racing and Training
    Replies: 45
    Last Post: 12-17-2018, 03:29 AM
  2. Orbea oiz?
    By Dphoward in forum Orbea
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-22-2015, 10:22 AM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-29-2013, 03:24 AM
  4. Personal video - XC-Trail - Orbea Oiz Team . La Rioja. Spain .
    By gualas in forum Videos and POV Cameras
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-31-2013, 03:22 AM
  5. Orbea oiz carbon 2009
    By bladeage1 in forum Bike and Frame discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-10-2013, 09:47 AM

Members who have read this thread: 362

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.