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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnyquist View Post
    740mm


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    Thanks, I looked them up and it looks like they'd make me a 790mm. How is their durability?

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  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Thanks, I looked them up and it looks like they'd make me a 790mm. How is their durability?

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    Canít speak to the durability as I just installed them. Lots of people using them with success, though.


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  3. #803
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    Headset issues

    Has anyone upgraded their headset? If so, what brand/type?

    Orbea Blue Paper only says 1-1/8 x 1-1/2 integrated. I ordered a cane creek but no go. The top integrated bearing cap looks more rounded and doesn't fit the chamfered bearings securely. Does anyone have experience with this? New Oiz-psx_20200326_193318.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Oiz-psx_20200326_193342.jpg  


  4. #804
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    I replaced mine with a Cane Creek AER.

    Specs are:

    IS 42/28.6 top
    IS 52/40 bottom


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  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnyquist View Post
    I replaced mine with a Cane Creek AER.

    Specs are:

    IS 42/28.6 top
    IS 52/40 bottom


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    Thanks! Short cover or tall, and did the dust cap sit flush with the top of the frame?

  6. #806
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    Short. Iíll take a picture tomorrow.


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  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kusar View Post
    Has anyone upgraded their headset? If so, what brand/type?

    Orbea Blue Paper only says 1-1/8 x 1-1/2 integrated. I ordered a cane creek but no go. The top integrated bearing cap looks more rounded and doesn't fit the chamfered bearings securely. Does anyone have experience with this?
    Here's a side on view of the headset on my bike. This has been through a couple of revisions from my first post on this bike a few months ago. (top down).

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-headset.jpg

    What I have now is a OneUp components threaded top cap to hold a OneUP EDC tool in the steerer tube. The Fox 32 Stepcast fork steerer had to be tapped to put the thread in but this works really well once installed to preload the headset, much better than the usual star nut. You use a cassette lockring tool to adjust the preload on the headset bearings.

    https://uk.oneupcomponents.com/colle...ts/edc-top-cap

    The stem is an 80mm Specialized S-Works stem +12 degrees.

    The Wahoo bike computer mount is a generic Best Tek one.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The headset top dust cover is the stock Acros one that came with the bike.

    Underneath the dust cover I replaced the 1 1/8" compression cap with an aftermarket one. The stock compression cap that comes with the bike was causing lots of friction when turning the bars. I originally tried a Cane Creek compression cap and dust cover but it left the upper bearing exposed and sat too high. It's this compression cap that decides how flush the dust cover will be with the top of the frame. What you're interested in is that lip on the top of the compression ring. The lower that lip is the more flush the headset dust cover will be. This generic gold compression ring is what I have.

    https://www.evanscycles.com/m-part-e...-inch-EV173699

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    The bearings are the smoothest running ones I could find in the bike shop's spares box.

  8. #808
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    Good info on the headset. I sweat a ton & stock bearings are generally shot within a year. Iíll be going to Cane Creek for replacement like I always do.

    I got my M10 TR this week & am getting it dialed in. What a sweet bike! So far Iíve swapped in my SQLabs 16 degree sweep bar -itís 720mm but Iíd like to go wider so Iíve got another on the way & will start at 760 to see how that goes. Iím pretty small at 5í5Ē & have been on 720 for a few years. Also threw on my trusty Ergon SMR3 Pro, bottle cages & converted the stock to tubeless. The Maxxis Forekaster is supposed to be 2.35 but to me it looks like 2.2 max! Iíve got a set of BTLOS rim/DT 240 wheels on the way & will be going with Vittoria Barzos 2.35 front/2.25 back.

    The Shimano drivetrain is impressive! The shifting just works every time. Iím coming off SRSM 11 speed which I thought was good but Shimano 12 works with no thought -*click* & itís in the next gear.. just wow! I do find the spacing of the upper cogs on the cassette a bit weird, feels like too much of a jump sometimes but Iíll adapt.

    Still getting used to the Squidlock. Iíve accidentally locked out a couple of times when I wanted to activate the dropper. Itís going to take awhile to reprogram the muscle memory! At some point, Iím going to fiddle with the cable tension to the rear shock & see if I can eek out some travel in the middle position but so far, Iíve had the suspension wide open & am liking it a lot.

    I weigh about 150 & have 65psi in the fork & 165 in the shock. Didnít even check sag but am looking at travel indicators on the shock/fork & adjusting by feel. I stated close to 70/170 but that was too firm. Right now it feels a lot better but I think it feels like. I could go just a bit lower to get just a little more travel. Iím a recovering single speeder & stand whilst peddling a lot more than anyone I know. Itís a hard habit to break but fortunately, I donít feel like Iím losing too much efficiency standing & mashing on this bike.

    I think Iím going to replace the crankset with a Raceface Next SL G5 model. Iím duck footed & my right heel is rubbing on the chain stay. If I do, I plan to put a 143.5 spindle in it which should help with that. Iíd get a Absolute Black oval for boost & flip it to keep pretty close to the boost chainline.

    When Iíve got the bike all set, Iíll post pics.

  9. #809
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    Hey, which Intend stem is that, the 77/7 degree or the 90/12? Thanks man.
    Quote Originally Posted by mnyquist View Post
    A few updates to my Oiz TR for the season:

    Trickstuff Piccola brakes
    Darimo Carbon bar
    Intend XC stem
    AXS Eagle upgrade
    21 lbs, 9oz






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  10. #810
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    77/7


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  11. #811
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    The difference between the Orbea Oiz headset and the Specialized Epics I've had in the past is the carbon moulding that the upper bearing drops into. You can see the carbon moulding in Kusar's picture above.

    With the Specialized Epics the upper bearing would go further down into the frame, so that the top of the bearing was flush with the frame. On the Orbea Oiz the top of the upper bearing sits above the frame. That's why I ended up going back to the stock Acros top cap as that shape will mostly cover the bearing to protect it a bit more whilst being as low stack as possible.

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnyquist View Post
    77/7


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    Thanks man!

  13. #813
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    Anyone else had an issue with the carbon link wallowing out?

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  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Anyone else had an issue with the carbon link wallowing out?
    Wallowing?
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  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Anyone else had an issue with the carbon link wallowing out?

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    Maybe just time for bearing/bushing replacement?

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayfield View Post
    Maybe just time for bearing/bushing replacement?
    No, warranty issue. It's the second one I'm aware of with the issue. Basically the bearing gets loose in the linkage and allows side to side play at the top most pivot.

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  17. #817
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    Holy crap, the quarantine must be getting to some people.

    Anyway, does anyone have experience with the xc as an actual xc race bike? I haven't had the opportunity to ride much the past few years (couldn't get hurt because of work), but I'm getting back into it and want to get back into xc and xcm races. Bikes I'm looking at are the Oiz xc, Blur xc, Cannondale Scalpel, Scott Spark, Giant Anthem, and Canyon Lux. The Anthem, Spark, and Oiz are currently at the top of the list. Can anyone compare the Oiz to any of these bikes?

    Thanks

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Holy crap, the quarantine must be getting to some people.

    Anyway, does anyone have experience with the xc as an actual xc race bike? I haven't had the opportunity to ride much the past few years (couldn't get hurt because of work), but I'm getting back into it and want to get back into xc and xcm races. Bikes I'm looking at are the Oiz xc, Blur xc, Cannondale Scalpel, Scott Spark, Giant Anthem, and Canyon Lux. The Anthem, Spark, and Oiz are currently at the top of the list. Can anyone compare the Oiz to any of these bikes?

    Thanks
    I can't compare it to the bikes you mentioned. I have done a marathon and a half marathon race on the TR and thought it performed great. Extrapolating that down to an XCO type race and on the XC flavor I think it would be a great bike. The lockout works great and if adjusted properly can get you three distinct feels, the middle one being perfect for short rough climbs and less than smooth flat sections.

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  19. #819
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    I can't compare it to the bikes you mentioned. I have done a marathon and a half marathon race on the TR and thought it performed great. Extrapolating that down to an XCO type race and on the XC flavor I think it would be a great bike. The lockout works great and if adjusted properly can get you three distinct feels, the middle one being perfect for short rough climbs and less than smooth flat sections.

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    Thanks!

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Anyone else had an issue with the carbon link wallowing out?

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    Interesting that you're having the issue. The Intense Sniper has a similar rear end design and had a lot of issues with wallowing out of the bearing holes.

    They ended up redesigning the rear triangle for the 120mm trail version, adding upright supports between the CS and SS on both sides. They also added a bolt in brace in between the SS where they bolts to the link. Can't do that on the OIZ
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  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Interesting that you're having the issue. The Intense Sniper has a similar rear end design and had a lot of issues with wallowing out of the bearing holes.

    They ended up redesigning the rear triangle for the 120mm trail version, adding upright supports between the CS and SS on both sides. They also added a bolt in brace in between the SS where they bolts to the link. Can't do that on the OIZ
    Yeah, I know of one other person that's had the exact same issue. I truly do wish it was imaginary as both my bikes are down for warranty at the moment, big bike is delaminating inside the lower bearing cup. I'm thinking it's probably due to it not being braced properly for side loads. It's the only thing that makes sense to me and is where the greatest amount of leverage would be in such an event.

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  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Anyone else had an issue with the carbon link wallowing out?

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    Had a similar issue with my 2019 Oiz TR. A little Loctite 609 retaining compound around the bearing and it tightened everything right up. Check out this thread for some discussion on it. Good luck.

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by chapman_164 View Post
    Had a similar issue with my 2019 Oiz TR. A little Loctite 609 retaining compound around the bearing and it tightened everything right up. Check out this thread for some discussion on it. Good luck.
    Yep that's most likely the start of the issue. Thanks!

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  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Holy crap, the quarantine must be getting to some people.

    Anyway, does anyone have experience with the xc as an actual xc race bike? I haven't had the opportunity to ride much the past few years (couldn't get hurt because of work), but I'm getting back into it and want to get back into xc and xcm races. Bikes I'm looking at are the Oiz xc, Blur xc, Cannondale Scalpel, Scott Spark, Giant Anthem, and Canyon Lux. The Anthem, Spark, and Oiz are currently at the top of the list. Can anyone compare the Oiz to any of these bikes?

    Thanks
    I've been racing on the 2019 XC for about a year now. Coming off a Yeti ASRc, this bike honestly has taken me a while to "love". The reason I got it was for the remote lockout and 2 bottle cages, because otherwise, it's quite similar to the ASR. Granted, I didn't do any XCMs last year, so only one cage has been necessary, and it also took too long to get the bike in time for SoHo, which is where I think it would have shined. At XCO Nats (US), having the lockouts was a dream due to the ~10min smooth surface climb each lap. As far as training goes, I use the 2 bottle cages constantly, so it definitely wasn't a waste. And, if it happens at all this year, I'm sure they'll be useful at XCM Nats.

    Downside:
    The Quarq PM doesn't _quite_ clear the right chainstay, so you have to add a spacer to it to prevent it from rubbing on the frame. In general this works, though when the bike gets to dirty, or even after using it for a while, I've had to dissemble, re-grease everything, and do some ritualistic dance to get it quiet. I have zero tolerance for clickety or creaking bikes.

    The other thing that took some work, but I'm super happy with the results, is getting the RockShox AXS dropper on the bike. I had to switch over to the RS TwistLoc remote lockout to make room for the RS dropper. Ultimately, this has been an upgrade anyways because I don't accidentally lockout on bumpy descents anymore.

    I definitely would buy this bike again.

  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Holy crap, the quarantine must be getting to some people.

    Anyway, does anyone have experience with the xc as an actual xc race bike? I haven't had the opportunity to ride much the past few years (couldn't get hurt because of work), but I'm getting back into it and want to get back into xc and xcm races. Bikes I'm looking at are the Oiz xc, Blur xc, Cannondale Scalpel, Scott Spark, Giant Anthem, and Canyon Lux. The Anthem, Spark, and Oiz are currently at the top of the list. Can anyone compare the Oiz to any of these bikes?

    Thanks
    I extensively demo'd the Oiz last year but ended up with a Scott Spark RC because of availability and lbs turned to a Scott dealer so I got a better deal. Both in XL size, both around the $5000 mark (spark rc pro vs oiz m10 vs oiz m10 tr). I was shopping specifically for a bike for the XCM races I am focusing on this year.

    The Oiz wins in the parts spec category. Top of the line suspension, xt/xtr mix, lightish dt swiss wheels, carbon bits. The two things I am constantly wishing I could upgrade now on my spark are the wheels and the fork. Wheels are heavy, and the fork (and shock for that matter) are a pain to setup. Very pressure and setting sensitive. Losing weight means I basically have had to reset it up every week. They work once they are setup, but I hate not being able to tune the compression how I like.

    Climbing, they both climb well. The Oiz might have a slight advantage with the slightly shorter frame and steeper STA. It's more of a feel than an actual difference.

    Descending, the Spark wins hands down. It's probably the best descending short travel bike I've ridden. Really composed, corners on rails, likes to have too much fun.

    Suspension, can't really compare directly.

    The Oiz pedals great when the shock is open. Lockout is lockout. Never felt a third mode. Descending open, felt like my asrc. The rear end was very stiff, and suspension was a touch stiff. I didn't really mess beyond the initial setup of suspension though.

    The Spark has a very progressive shock tune, and
    3 "modes". Open is for descending, and is nice and plush. Great for rowdy stuff, jumps, and drops. Traction is for everything else and pedals very efficiently while have 70mm of plush travel. I really enjoy twinlock because I don't have to compromise the suspension for climbing vs descending. Descending can be super plush, climbing can be firm and supportive. I just have to push a lever. If that leaves a bad taste in your mouth, get an Anthem.

    I'd feel comfortable racing both the Oiz and the Spark in xcm events. It's comes down to personal preference and options. Slacker, little bit longer/lower, plusher spark vs shorter slightly steeper more traditional oiz. Two bottles vs one bottle. Ability to run a 120mm fork vs 110 max on the spark. Proprietary spark shock and fork damper vs non proprietary oiz suspension.

    My advice is buy the bike from your favorite LBS. If your LBS is an Orbea,Scott,giant dealer, pick your favorite color and build spec.

  26. #826
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    I'm interested in the twistlock part.

    Did you manage to get the 3 positions working for the shock ? (I don't care about the fork lockout, I removed it)

    If so, is it hard to set up ?

  27. #827
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    Curious which Quarq PM do you have that doesn't clear the drive side chainstay? I have an AXS XX1 Dub boost and have tons of clearance.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeranzin View Post
    I've been racing on the 2019 XC for about a year now. Coming off a Yeti ASRc, this bike honestly has taken me a while to "love". The reason I got it was for the remote lockout and 2 bottle cages, because otherwise, it's quite similar to the ASR. Granted, I didn't do any XCMs last year, so only one cage has been necessary, and it also took too long to get the bike in time for SoHo, which is where I think it would have shined. At XCO Nats (US), having the lockouts was a dream due to the ~10min smooth surface climb each lap. As far as training goes, I use the 2 bottle cages constantly, so it definitely wasn't a waste. And, if it happens at all this year, I'm sure they'll be useful at XCM Nats.

    Downside:
    The Quarq PM doesn't _quite_ clear the right chainstay, so you have to add a spacer to it to prevent it from rubbing on the frame. In general this works, though when the bike gets to dirty, or even after using it for a while, I've had to dissemble, re-grease everything, and do some ritualistic dance to get it quiet. I have zero tolerance for clickety or creaking bikes.

    The other thing that took some work, but I'm super happy with the results, is getting the RockShox AXS dropper on the bike. I had to switch over to the RS TwistLoc remote lockout to make room for the RS dropper. Ultimately, this has been an upgrade anyways because I don't accidentally lockout on bumpy descents anymore.

    I definitely would buy this bike again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Oiz-img_20200409_110204.jpg  


  28. #828
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    Currently waiting for the world to reopen before placing my order for an oiz m10. Iím currently riding a 2017 occam tr h20(120mm travel). Iím kind of torn between the xc and tr version of the oiz. This will be my race bike. I donít want a dropper, and I want it to be as light as possible. Iíll be ditching the squidlock as it seems completely useless to me to have a 3 position remote for a 2 position shock/fork. Iím currently running the rockshox twistloc on my occam and I absolutely love it. So that will be the first change before I even ride my oiz. Iím not concerned about being able to take big hits (drops, jumps, etc) but do ride very rocky, chunky terrain. I think 100mm will suffice as I want efficiency and do not want a supple ride. I just want to be sure I make the right decision. I Rode an oiz demo last year and thought it was an absolute rocket. I wish I new wether or not it was 100 or 120mm version.

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Currently waiting for the world to reopen before placing my order for an oiz m10. Iím currently riding a 2017 occam tr h20(120mm travel). Iím kind of torn between the xc and tr version of the oiz. This will be my race bike. I donít want a dropper, and I want it to be as light as possible. Iíll be ditching the squidlock as it seems completely useless to me to have a 3 position remote for a 2 position shock/fork. Iím currently running the rockshox twistloc on my occam and I absolutely love it. So that will be the first change before I even ride my oiz. Iím not concerned about being able to take big hits (drops, jumps, etc) but do ride very rocky, chunky terrain. I think 100mm will suffice as I want efficiency and do not want a supple ride. I just want to be sure I make the right decision. I Rode an oiz demo last year and thought it was an absolute rocket. I wish I new wether or not it was 100 or 120mm version.
    As far as I'm aware, the Factory demos and most bike shop demos are the TR version. That runs true for about every bike company. I don't think I've ever seen an actual race bike from any company demo unless it was a special demo through a shop.

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Iíll be ditching the squidlock as it seems completely useless to me to have a 3 position remote for a 2 position shock/fork.
    Be careful.

    There are many people on this thread that actually think that just because the squidlock has 3 positions that their shock and fork offer 3 positions (or settings), even though Fox specifically says that both are either 'on' of 'off'.

    Anyway, my 100mm Large Oiz weighs 21.75 pounds with a 120mm Fox 34 Step Cast and pedals. No dropper.

    So, my advice is to buy the 100 version, and if you need some extra travel, pickup a 34 SC. This will raise the BB somewhat (which I feel is a bonus) and the handling seems more precise from the stronger fork.
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  31. #831
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Be careful.

    There are many people on this thread that actually think that just because the squidlock has 3 positions that their shock and fork offer 3 positions (or settings), even though Fox specifically says that both are either 'on' of 'off'.

    Anyway, my 100mm Large Oiz weighs 21.75 pounds with a Fox 34 Step Cast and pedals. No dropper.

    So, my advice is to buy the 100 version, and if you need some extra travel, pickup a 34 SC. This will raise the BB somewhat (which I feel is a bonus) and the handling seems more precise from the stronger fork.
    That's because it does...

    As you have been told ad nauseum just because the fork and/or shock only has two positions that does not mean that stopping the restriction mechanism between those two positions does not alter the level of restriction to somewhere between the two limits. I know it's slightly complicated to picture but trust me, and others, it works.

    If you need a real world example, find a flexible drinking straw. Drink through it with no restriction, then with it pinched as tightly as possible between two fingers and finally with it loosely pinched. Same principle at work.

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  32. #832
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    That's because it does...

    As you have been told ad nauseum just because the fork and/or shock only has two positions that does not mean that stopping the restriction mechanism between those two positions does not alter the level of restriction to somewhere between the two limits. I know it's slightly complicated to picture but trust me, and others, it works.

    If you need a real world example, find a flexible drinking straw. Drink through it with no restriction, then with it pinched as tightly as possible between two fingers and finally with it loosely pinched. Same principle at work.

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    Oh - ok.
    Move along dude. If you are so sure of it, go post of video of it on Youtube.
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  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Oh - ok.
    Move along dude. If you are so sure of it, go post of video of it on Youtube.
    Ironically someone already has in this thread. You chose to ignore that one so why bother.

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  34. #834
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Be careful.

    There are many people on this thread that actually think that just because the squidlock has 3 positions that their shock and fork offer 3 positions (or settings), even though Fox specifically says that both are either 'on' of 'off'.

    Anyway, my 100mm Large Oiz weighs 21.75 pounds with a 120mm Fox 34 Step Cast and pedals. No dropper.

    So, my advice is to buy the 100 version, and if you need some extra travel, pickup a 34 SC. This will raise the BB somewhat (which I feel is a bonus) and the handling seems more precise from the stronger fork.
    Thanks for the recommendation, that seems like sound advice. I guess my concern would be bottoming out the fork on big hits. But i feel if the fork is set up properly this shouldnít be an issue I suppose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Thanks for the recommendation, that seems like sound advice. I guess my concern would be bottoming out the fork on big hits. But i feel if the fork is set up properly this shouldnít be an issue I suppose.
    On the TR version the fork hasn't been an issue, I've bottomed it but not jarringly so. The rear is a different story though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksanman View Post
    As far as I'm aware, the Factory demos and most bike shop demos are the TR version. That runs true for about every bike company. I don't think I've ever seen an actual race bike from any company demo unless it was a special demo through a shop.
    Ok, I just confirmed you are correct. Dig up my old Strava post with picture from demo day. It indeed is a TR. now my decision is not so clear! 🤦🏻*♂️

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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Anyone else had an issue with the carbon link wallowing out?

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    Is this carbon link issue noticeable as free play in the rear end with the rear shock fully inflated or is it more evident if you let all the air out of the rear shock?

    The rear suspension of my bike seems to be ok at the moment. There's nothing obviously wrong with the suspension on it.

    I did have one of my Shimano Deore XT M8000 pedals packup the other day though. The M8000 pedals are normally really reliable so I use them instead of XTR but this one had lots of grease come out from the seals by the axle and started rocking. It was only about a year old.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Is this carbon link issue noticeable as free play in the rear end with the rear shock fully inflated or is it more evident if you let all the air out of the rear shock?

    The rear suspension of my bike seems to be ok at the moment. There's nothing obviously wrong with the suspension on it.

    I did have one of my Shimano Deore XT M8000 pedals packup the other day though. The M8000 pedals are normally really reliable so I use them instead of XTR but this one had lots of grease come out from the seals by the axle and started rocking. It was only about a year old.
    It's noticeable while riding. Didn't check with the shock deflated.

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  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    It's noticeable while riding. Didn't check with the shock deflated.

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    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Thanks.
    You're welcome

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Thanks for the recommendation, that seems like sound advice. I guess my concern would be bottoming out the fork on big hits. But i feel if the fork is set up properly this shouldnít be an issue I suppose.
    If you are an aggressive ride and using an XC bike usually your set-up is so freaking stiff that harsh bottom outs are no an issue. Small bump compliance and fatigue on long descents on the the other hand are major factors.

    I swap my bike between XC trim and TR trim fairly regularly. (Change shock, fork, bars, stem and tires). For a 2 minute descent I am just as quick in XC trim, it just really hard to hold that pace after 2 minutes.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

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    The 120 Fox SC seems relatively bottomless to me, but maybe I am just not that aggressive.

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    At 21.75 with pedals- What is your build list? What did you change from stock?
    Do you also have the rear shock for more travel? (Though I can't see that as being much heavier as it is only 5mm longer).

    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Be careful.

    There are many people on this thread that actually think that just because the squidlock has 3 positions that their shock and fork offer 3 positions (or settings), even though Fox specifically says that both are either 'on' of 'off'.

    Anyway, my 100mm Large Oiz weighs 21.75 pounds with a 120mm Fox 34 Step Cast and pedals. No dropper.

    So, my advice is to buy the 100 version, and if you need some extra travel, pickup a 34 SC. This will raise the BB somewhat (which I feel is a bonus) and the handling seems more precise from the stronger fork.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsie_cat View Post
    The 120 Fox SC seems relatively bottomless to me, but maybe I am just not that aggressive.
    I've only had one instance where it didn't feel bottomless and I've done the same thing on a ACS-3 170mm 36, and while it didn't bottom it it used quite a bit of travel. Essentially it's a rock garden where if you don't hit the entry just right you get kicked high up two big square edges and then dropped into a hole.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsie_cat View Post
    At 21.75 with pedals- What is your build list? What did you change from stock?
    Do you also have the rear shock for more travel? (Though I can't see that as being much heavier as it is only 5mm longer).
    It's entirely possible that the TR shock is lighter. Not sure what the weight different between the pistons is but the non-TR version uses the same shock with a spacer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsie_cat View Post
    The 120 Fox SC seems relatively bottomless to me, but maybe I am just not that aggressive.
    On modern shocks and forks we bottom them all the time without realizing. The ramp up on them is tuned so well that most of time that bottom is just a soft touch that we don't feel it. The only tell-tale is that o-ring at the bottom out marker.

    However, occasionally you hit somethings so fast and hard that you go straight to bottom. It seems that the speed of hit is more important than the amount of force. I will bottom a fork on quick sharp hits, not enough high speed compression is the culprit in most cases I think.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

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    Hi! I did a test ride on the 2020 H10 TR yesterday and it was great fun! The only problem I had was that sometimes it felt like the fork was locked when I put the Squidlock on the middle position and pedaled into a rooty trail section. An hour into the ride or so, I figured it out. The 34 SC FIT4 does not have a middle position, so going to middle on Squidlock does nothing as far as the fork is concerned. So when I switched from locked out to middle, the shock becomes softer but the fork remains locked, but when I switch from open to middle, the fork remains open and the shock becomes a bit firmer.
    So those times when I thought that something is wrong with the fork was actually when I came from locked to middle. I can't see how that makes any sense, softening the shock but keeping the fork locked! Anyway, googled it and found this thread.

    Maybe someone here has good advice? Is there anything the can be done to make the fork open when the Squidlock is set to middle regardless of the previous state? Or is it possible to replace the remote cable thing with a manual lever on the fork? I don't really feel a need to lock out the fork, so that would work for me. I only faced this problem once on a Rockshox Bluto fork, but with that one it would have taken a whole new damper to ditch the remote.

    Edit: To get rid of the fork remote, I think I just need to install a non-remote top cap with the Fox part number 820-05-330-KIT

    Regards,
    Daniel
    Last edited by Daniel Thomas; 04-17-2020 at 04:01 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    Hi! I did a test ride on the 2020 H10 TR yesterday and it was great fun! The only problem I had was that sometimes it felt like the fork was locked when I put the Squidlock on the middle position and pedaled into a rooty trail section. An hour into the ride or so, I figured it out. The 34 SC FIT4 does not have a middle position, so going to middle on Squidlock does nothing as far as the fork is concerned. So when I switched from locked out to middle, the shock becomes softer but the fork remains locked, but when I switch from open to middle, the fork remains open and the shock becomes a bit firmer.
    So those times when I thought that something is wrong with the fork was actually when I came from locked to middle. I can't see how that makes any sense, softening the shock but keeping the fork locked! Anyway, googled it and found this thread.

    Maybe someone here has good advice? Is there anything the can be done to make the fork open when the Squidlock is set to middle regardless of the previous state? Or is it possible to replace the remote cable thing with a manual lever on the fork? I don't really feel a need to lock out the fork, so that would work for me. I only faced this problem once on a Rockshox Bluto fork, but with that one it would have taken a whole new damper to ditch the remote.

    Regards,
    Daniel
    You would have to send the shock and fork back to fox to have it changed to be manually operated.

    Iíd suggest getting a 2 position remote, that way there is no middle option as that is how the fox suspension is designed to operate. Problem solved. I myself, will be going with a rockshox twistloc remote the day my bike arrives. But fox also has a two position remote that you may prefer.

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    Iím not 100% sure on that part, yes, itís what you need but is the damper the same? I've never worked on a fork myself. I know that when I went from standard lockout to a remote lockout, I had to send it back to fox for a new damper. Not sure about going the other way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Iíd suggest getting a 2 position remote, that way there is no middle option as that is how the fox suspension is designed to operate. Problem solved. I myself, will be going with a rockshox twistloc remote the day my bike arrives. But fox also has a two position remote that you may prefer.
    I agree.

    The FOX two position remote that can be bought from any online retailer is what should be on these bike anyway.

    As more and more people on this thread have proclaimed, the shock and fork are only 2 position capable as per Fox.

    The Squid lock is a nice idea - I have the capability on my DT SWiss shock and fork, but Fox has not setup their components to be compatible with this feature.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsie_cat View Post
    At 21.75 with pedals- What is your build list? What did you change from stock?
    Do you also have the rear shock for more travel? (Though I can't see that as being much heavier as it is only 5mm longer).
    Here is my build:
    New Oiz-20200218_123809-1-.jpg

    Size Large frame
    Stock shock 100 mm
    Fox Factory 34 SC 120 mm travel
    Darimo post and bars
    EE Wings crank
    Look pedals
    Nox Skyline wheels with Project 321 hubs
    Stock stem
    XTR brakes
    2 Pos Fox lockout remote
    Rocket Ron tires
    KCNC rotors
    Wolftooth 34 oval ring
    Full Sram AXS
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    I agree.

    The FOX two position remote that can be bought from any online retailer is what should be on these bike anyway.

    As more and more people on this thread have proclaimed, the shock and fork are only 2 position capable as per Fox.

    The Squid lock is a nice idea - I have the capability on my DT SWiss shock and fork, but Fox has not setup their components to be compatible with this feature.
    Again, that's true and not true. The fork and shock have two INDEXED positions per Fox. The Squidlock has three. With the correct cable tension it is possible to have the middle position of the Squidlock stop the adjustors on the suspension between their indexed positions resulting in a restricted, but not fully restricted, flow. Someone who has gotten a non-perfect setup from the factory or dealer, there are bikes they missed the retaining compound in the linkage on so entirely possible, may well indeed only see two.

    It's not that complicated of a concept really. You've just honed in on "well Fox said two positions" and have incorrectly correlated that to mean two levels of damping which is not correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Again, that's true and not true. The fork and shock have two INDEXED positions per Fox. The Squidlock has three. With the correct cable tension it is possible to have the middle position of the Squidlock stop the adjustors on the suspension between their indexed positions resulting in a restricted, but not fully restricted, flow. Someone who has gotten a non-perfect setup from the factory or dealer, there are bikes they missed the retaining compound in the linkage on so entirely possible, may well indeed only see two.

    It's not that complicated of a concept really. You've just honed in on "well Fox said two positions" and have incorrectly correlated that to mean two levels of damping which is not correct.

    Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
    In "thoery" I agree.

    However, multiple people in this thread have said it doesn't work.

    Fox have also stated the components are binary. Meaning on/ off.

    I'm glad it works for you. But, it seems it doesn't work for everyone.

    Yours is probably special. Just like you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    In "thoery" I agree.

    However, multiple people in this thread have said it doesn't work.

    Fox have also stated the components are binary. Meaning on/ off.

    I'm glad it works for you. But, it seems it doesn't work for everyone.

    Yours is probably special. Just like you.
    I'm far from the only person that this works for, even in this thread, and no Fox has not stated that the damper is binary, it uses the three-position capable DPS damper... Fox stated their, Fox's, switches are binary. Your continual resulting to insults is just a further indicator of how far in over your head you are here and that you're just regurgitating talking points you don't fully comprehend in an effort to win an argument. If it weren't for you propogating incorrect data I couldn't care less but alas here we are.

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    Ok son. LOL.

    I think you have it reversed. It has nothing to do with the switch, but everything to do with the components. It's stated in here over and over again.

    Carry on.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Ok son. LOL.

    I think you have it reversed. It has nothing to do with the switch, but everything to do with the components. It's stated in here over and over again.

    Carry on.
    You do realize that the only functional difference between the two models is the mode selection switch and that they both use a 3-position capable damper yes?

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  57. #857
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    In "thoery" I agree.

    However, multiple people in this thread have said it doesn't work.

    Fox have also stated the components are binary. Meaning on/ off.

    I'm glad it works for you. But, it seems it doesn't work for everyone.

    Yours is probably special. Just like you.
    I have three Oiz's that I just built and set-up the Squidlock. It 100% creates three different levels of stiffness in the fork and shock. Super tricky to get set-up right, but there are three settings.

    The middle setting is ideal for fire roads climbs where you want it firm but with give on bigger hits.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    I have three Oiz's that I just built and set-up the Squidlock. It 100% creates three different levels of stiffness in the fork and shock. Super tricky to get set-up right, but there are three settings.

    The middle setting is ideal for fire roads climbs where you want it firm but with give on bigger hits.
    Yep, this is just a case of someone not knowing how to set up a bike properly so it must not be possible and there's no way anyone else could possibly get it to work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Yep, this is just a case of someone not knowing how to set up a bike properly so it must not be possible and there's no way anyone else could possibly get it to work.

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    To be fair, getting it right is difficult. And I suspect that it will be difficult to keep it in perfect adjustment.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    To be fair, getting it right is difficult. And I suspect that it will be difficult to keep it in perfect adjustment.
    Agreed, one interesting thing to note, since you're caring for a stable, is that if muck lands in the selector it can block the Squidlock. Seems obvious I know but when you're powering along and half-bonked it wasn't to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Agreed, one interesting thing to note, since you're caring for a stable, is that if muck lands in the selector it can block the Squidlock. Seems obvious I know but when you're powering along and half-bonked it wasn't to me.

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    Mud has always been the achilles heal of lockouts. That is why the Icd was so good, and the theory behind the hydraulic lockouts that rockshox used.

    Fox went to push to unlock so that when everything gets jammed with mud you can still force your suspension to open. When it was push to lock I had a couple of times where it wouldn't unlock on me because of mud. I also suspect that this is why Fox went away from a three position remote.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    Mud has always been the achilles heal of lockouts. That is why the Icd was so good, and the theory behind the hydraulic lockouts that rockshox used.

    Fox went to push to unlock so that when everything gets jammed with mud you can still force your suspension to open. When it was push to lock I had a couple of times where it wouldn't unlock on me because of mud. I also suspect that this is why Fox went away from a three position remote.
    Yep, I could get to my middle setting, which was fine, just burning miles and being socially responsible with risk, but the open setting wasn't going to happen. Just didn't think to stop and check.

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  63. #863
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    Hi! I did a test ride on the 2020 H10 TR yesterday and it was great fun! The only problem I had was that sometimes it felt like the fork was locked when I put the Squidlock on the middle position and pedaled into a rooty trail section. An hour into the ride or so, I figured it out. The 34 SC FIT4 does not have a middle position, so going to middle on Squidlock does nothing as far as the fork is concerned. So when I switched from locked out to middle, the shock becomes softer but the fork remains locked, but when I switch from open to middle, the fork remains open and the shock becomes a bit firmer.
    So those times when I thought that something is wrong with the fork was actually when I came from locked to middle. I can't see how that makes any sense, softening the shock but keeping the fork locked! Anyway, googled it and found this thread.

    Maybe someone here has good advice? Is there anything the can be done to make the fork open when the Squidlock is set to middle regardless of the previous state? Or is it possible to replace the remote cable thing with a manual lever on the fork? I don't really feel a need to lock out the fork, so that would work for me. I only faced this problem once on a Rockshox Bluto fork, but with that one it would have taken a whole new damper to ditch the remote.

    Edit: To get rid of the fork remote, I think I just need to install a non-remote top cap with the Fox part number 820-05-330-KIT

    Regards,
    Daniel
    The Fox 34 remote lockout cable wasn't adjusted properly on the demo bike you tried. All it needed was for the cable tension for the fork lockout to be set.

    Once adjusted correctly on the fork lockout with an Orbea Squidlock the front suspension fork should be fully locked out when the rear suspension is locked out. For both the middle and full open rear suspension squidlock settings the suspension fork should be fully open.

    It just needed the cable tension to be adjusted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    To be fair, getting it right is difficult. And I suspect that it will be difficult to keep it in perfect adjustment.
    I'd be super interested to know how you went through your setup. And how you got the adjustment bang on. I've kind of got it there, but it's not perfect.

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    The Squidlock definitely enables three distinct behaviors of the shock. I don't how one can keep arguing about it again and again. On the positive side, now I am aware that it is controlled by cable tension and know that I can tweak there as well when I work on the setup.

    WR304, thanks for the advice! I will check cable tension and hopefully this will solve it!

    Other then this lockout thing, I love the bike! Two rides and it feels like made for me already. On the final part of the trail that takes me home, I have two turns on the descent before a brief uphill that takes a sharp turn before it goes down again. I always try to carry speed through the turns to make the uphill without pedaling and I succeed with more or less speed remaining. With the Oiz I managed the turns so well that I had to brake to make the final turn. I mean, it would have been totally doable without braking, but I was so surprised by the amount of speed carried that I was not properly positioned for a fast turn at all.

  66. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    The Squidlock definitely enables three distinct behaviors of the shock. I don't how one can keep arguing about it again and again. On the positive side, now I am aware that it is controlled by cable tension and know that I can tweak there as well when I work on the setup.

    WR304, thanks for the advice! I will check cable tension and hopefully this will solve it!

    Other then this lockout thing, I love the bike! Two rides and it feels like made for me already. On the final part of the trail that takes me home, I have two turns on the descent before a brief uphill that takes a sharp turn before it goes down again. I always try to carry speed through the turns to make the uphill without pedaling and I succeed with more or less speed remaining. With the Oiz I managed the turns so well that I had to brake to make the final turn. I mean, it would have been totally doable without braking, but I was so surprised by the amount of speed carried that I was not properly positioned for a fast turn at all.
    The Fox 34 fork lockout is Push to Unlock. I'd have thought the lockout cable for the fork from the Squidlock needs to have a bit more tension added to it, so that on the middle position of the Squidlock the fork lockout turns enough to fully open.

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    Thanks a lot WR304! You're right! I had to turn the cable tension screw several rotations in, now the middle position is always open. Perfect!

    I have also shortened that curved tube at the dropper remote so that I can mount it closer to the lever clamp, inside of that protusion of the XT lever that rests against the bars. With the Squidlock mounted outside, I felt the brake lever wasn't long enough to comfortably position my index finger. Mount inside, it's fine!

    New Oiz-20200419_090142.jpg

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    Thanks a lot WR304! You're right! I had to turn the cable tension screw several rotations in, now the middle position is always open. Perfect!

    I have also shortened that curved tube at the dropper remote so that I can mount it closer to the lever clamp, inside of that protusion of the XT lever that rests against the bars. With the Squidlock mounted outside, I felt the brake lever wasn't long enough to comfortably position my index finger. Mount inside, it's fine!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That metallic graphite grey / matte black Orbea colour scheme looks familiar!

    In the background of your picture you can see where the two cables go into the internal routing of the frame down tube. As stock these are probably a bit loose and free to rattle.

    What I did on my bike was to undo the blanking plate and slide it out a bit before wrapping the cable with several layers of electrical tape to make it thicker. When the blanking plate is put back in place the cable is then firmly wedged in place by the tape so less likely to rattle when riding.

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    I like the scheme, plus there is no danger of going crazy on colors that I grow tired of a couple months later.

    I did not hear any cables rattling, but I had two or three fairly loud chain slaps. I noticed the rear derailleur has a lever on it. Could be something this shadow plus thing my girlfriend has on her Shimano 11 speed. I will have to look at what it can do. I wouldn't mind if it is system like the SRAM cage lock. I am rather calm and patient, but fighting chain tension while removing/installing a rear wheel is really making me angry in a matter of seconds.

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    Haha ! I miss cage lock too, even tho it's not a huge hard work to remove the wheel without it.

    I got a problem with my XTR derailleur tho.

    The lever you're talking about enables/disables the clutch, which is supposed to reduce chain slap when it's activated, if I'm right.

    I got a problem lately tho... When the clutch lever is set to "off", everything works fine, but when it's set to "on" and the chain moves to the smaller cogs, the derailleur moves correctly sideways, but the cage remains in the same position, which decreases chain tension. As soon as I put the clutch to "off" again, the cage goes to the correct position. I tried to clean everything, but the problem persists...

  71. #871
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    Quote Originally Posted by evildos View Post
    Haha ! I miss cage lock too, even tho it's not a huge hard work to remove the wheel without it.

    I got a problem with my XTR derailleur tho.

    The lever you're talking about enables/disables the clutch, which is supposed to reduce chain slap when it's activated, if I'm right.

    I got a problem lately tho... When the clutch lever is set to "off", everything works fine, but when it's set to "on" and the chain moves to the smaller cogs, the derailleur moves correctly sideways, but the cage remains in the same position, which decreases chain tension. As soon as I put the clutch to "off" again, the cage goes to the correct position. I tried to clean everything, but the problem persists...
    Sounds like your clutch could use a service, unless itís already too late. How much use on the bike? This is how my xt acted when it was due for a service. Actually thatís how it acted after I serviced it with the wrong grease as well.

  72. #872
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    The bike doesn't have a lot of Kilometers, that's why I'm surprised.

    I did ride almost always in very muddy conditions tho, and washed the bike at the car station afterwards, because I live in an appartment.

    Maybe some water went through the clutch seals and built some kind of glue inside of it.

    I'll check how to service it, during the week. Can't hurt.

    Thanks for your input.

  73. #873
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    I like the scheme, plus there is no danger of going crazy on colors that I grow tired of a couple months later.

    I did not hear any cables rattling, but I had two or three fairly loud chain slaps. I noticed the rear derailleur has a lever on it. Could be something this shadow plus thing my girlfriend has on her Shimano 11 speed. I will have to look at what it can do. I wouldn't mind if it is system like the SRAM cage lock. I am rather calm and patient, but fighting chain tension while removing/installing a rear wheel is really making me angry in a matter of seconds.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-xtr-m9100-clutch.jpg

    On the Current Shimano rear derailleurs you have a lever that turns the clutch on or off. For riding the clutch should be turned on but for taking the rear wheel out it's best to shift the bike down to close to the smallest rear sprocket and turn the clutch off.

    The strength of the clutch can be adjusted to make it stronger or weaker. If you look at the underside of the derailleur there's a small rubber cap that you pop back and then using a 1.5mm allen key you can turn the clutch adjuster to change the clutch strength. In the picture above it's where the allen key is. If you have the clutch set to really strong then you're not going to get any chain slap but it does increase the amount of hand pressure needed to change gear by pressing the shifters.

    I try and keep the clutch strength fairly low so that I don't get too much hand fatigue from changing gear.

    You can also take the clutch apart and give it a service as per this page if it's playing up:

    https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-rep...illeur-clutch/

    .

  74. #874
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    I'll give this a good look tomorrow, thanks a lot for your help.

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    Mine was in the open position. I rode in the closed position and there were no chain slaps, although the trail was smooth. There is a strong resistance against pushing the mech backwards, so I am sure it will work. Three hours into the ride, my thumb joint started to hurt. I wouldn't have made the connection to the increased lever force if you hadn't mentioned it, but that is something I will have to keep an eye on. I guess my thumb has taken one or two hits too much and the joint tends to hurt too easily.

  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    Mine was in the open position. I rode in the closed position and there were no chain slaps, although the trail was smooth. There is a strong resistance against pushing the mech backwards, so I am sure it will work. Three hours into the ride, my thumb joint started to hurt. I wouldn't have made the connection to the increased lever force if you hadn't mentioned it, but that is something I will have to keep an eye on. I guess my thumb has taken one or two hits too much and the joint tends to hurt too easily.
    The default clutch strength that comes from the factory on the Shimano rear derailleurs is quite high. Reducing it was one of the first things I did before even riding the bike.

    If you're used to SRAM trigger shifters there is the clutch strength but also the position of the largest paddle for downshifts is worth looking at relative to your hand. With a Shimano trigger shifter something to look at is how far back you're having to pull your thumb to be able to push that shift paddle.

    Pulling your thumb back too far can be a real stretch on the thumb joint and over time riding most days it's possible to end up with a repetitive strain injury from shifting like that over and over again. The integrated ispec EV mounts have some adjustment in so you may be able to rotate your shifter round a little on the mount to reduce that stretch and make it more comfortable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    To be fair, getting it right is difficult. And I suspect that it will be difficult to keep it in perfect adjustment.
    Do you have any advice on how to get it right?

    Do you need the shock cable to be slack when locked?

    Kaj

  78. #878
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    Yes, the cable will need to be at its most slack when fork or shock is locked out.

    I fiddled around with the middle setting on mine the other day. I had to adjust the cable at the shock & then fine tune the cable tension at the Squidlock. At the risk of angering a few people, this shock is meant to be open or locked out, it's a 2 position shock. Can you get a middle position out of it? Yes. But what is that middle position going to do to the action of the shock, really? Looking at the diagram posted earlier in this thread, you can see that the middle position of the lockout plate would simply restrict flow in the compression stroke of the shock. Further, I suspect the diagram is from a 3 position shock based on the text: "Main Piston: Controls Open and Medium modes". I couldn't find this drawing on the Fox site but there is a different drawing of a 3 position remote shock. The shock on the Oiz is not this shock, verified in an email exchange documented earlier in this thread.

    Anyway, I managed to find the correct cable tension to achieve a middle position between open/locked out but it was a pain in the ass & not at all worth it. In my experience, it really just slowed down the action of the shock. The only use I can see for the middle position of the Squidlock is to lockout the shock while keeping the fork open. I'm open to the possibility that I'm wrong on this but I really don't think I am.


    Quote Originally Posted by KajLaursen View Post
    Do you have any advice on how to get it right?

    Do you need the shock cable to be slack when locked?

    Kaj

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    Has anyone tried to add a volume spacer to the shock? I have removed the air pressure to check and at maximum compression the o-ring is at the bottom of the Kashima print. I monitored the travel a bit and I within a few millimeters of this position without any major hits. I have never felt a hard stop and I like how the suspension feels, so I don't want to change it too much. Just curious if I can get a bit more reserve with a spacer on this shock or if there is anything special going on inside. I have done a small service on another DPS once and it wasn't difficult. I have seen the Fox video on how to change a volume spacer, looks just as simple and like it can be done without removing the shock from the frame. This is certainly good because it seems that having a good middle position is not straight forward and I'd rather not mess with mine then.

  80. #880
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    Yes, I put the smallest purple one in mine M10 TR. You may need a strap wrench to unscrew the barrel from the cap. The whole process takes maybe 5 minutes or so.

    Before the spacer, I was running 15% sag to get the pedaling efficiency I like. With the spacer, I dropped 10psi air pressure & am running 20% sag & like it a lot. Feels like the rear wheel is tracking the ground better on smaller bumps, roots, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    Has anyone tried to add a volume spacer to the shock? I have removed the air pressure to check and at maximum compression the o-ring is at the bottom of the Kashima print. I monitored the travel a bit and I within a few millimeters of this position without any major hits. I have never felt a hard stop and I like how the suspension feels, so I don't want to change it too much. Just curious if I can get a bit more reserve with a spacer on this shock or if there is anything special going on inside. I have done a small service on another DPS once and it wasn't difficult. I have seen the Fox video on how to change a volume spacer, looks just as simple and like it can be done without removing the shock from the frame. This is certainly good because it seems that having a good middle position is not straight forward and I'd rather not mess with mine then.

  81. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by redwarrior View Post
    Yes, the cable will need to be at its most slack when fork or shock is locked out.

    I fiddled around with the middle setting on mine the other day. I had to adjust the cable at the shock & then fine tune the cable tension at the Squidlock. At the risk of angering a few people, this shock is meant to be open or locked out, it's a 2 position shock. Can you get a middle position out of it? Yes. But what is that middle position going to do to the action of the shock, really? Looking at the diagram posted earlier in this thread, you can see that the middle position of the lockout plate would simply restrict flow in the compression stroke of the shock. Further, I suspect the diagram is from a 3 position shock based on the text: "Main Piston: Controls Open and Medium modes". I couldn't find this drawing on the Fox site but there is a different drawing of a 3 position remote shock. The shock on the Oiz is not this shock, verified in an email exchange documented earlier in this thread.

    Anyway, I managed to find the correct cable tension to achieve a middle position between open/locked out but it was a pain in the ass & not at all worth it. In my experience, it really just slowed down the action of the shock. The only use I can see for the middle position of the Squidlock is to lockout the shock while keeping the fork open. I'm open to the possibility that I'm wrong on this but I really don't think I am.
    The 3 position and push to unlock both use the same DPS system.

    Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

  82. #882
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    I stand corrected. From the diagram earlier in the thread, I incorrectly inferred what was going on with the main piston.

    I found this video with a graphic showing oil flow on a 3 position shock. Regardless, Iím not able to get a good middle position out of mine. Maybe I need to tighten the cable just a hair more? I spent a good 20 minutes messing with it & couldnít come up with much more than still open feeling or pretty much closed. Either way, Iím very happy with how it works wide open with the volume spacer in there. Iím really liking this bike.

    https://youtu.be/9j3FuvHClJI

    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    The 3 position and push to unlock both use the same DPS system.

    Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

  83. #883
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    Iím sure this was touched upon many times but Iím really stuck on size. I wanted to do ďmy oĒ. It isnít not available in the XL frame size At the moment. (Makes me wonder why, is there a new frame design coming to the new year model, and they are out of xl and decided not to produce any more?) My occam is an xl. Iím comfortable riding it. But I really believe Iím in between two sizes here. And Iím wondering if I should try a large and just add a longer stem to get the reach I want. According to orbea website I should be on a large. Iím somewhere between 6í1Ē and 6í2Ē. With a 33-34Ē inseam. Anyone close in size that can share their decision?

  84. #884
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    I'm 6' tall and 34" inseam. Going by the reach/stack numbers and comparing to my YT Jeffsy size L, which fits me really well, I would have ordered XL without any doubts. My local shop had a size L with the 70 mm stem to try. I fully expected that it would be too short. I rode it and it felt great, so I bought it the next day (pro-forma sleeping over the decision). It climbs incredibly well on techy uphill sections and maneuvering is crazy good. Steep descending was fine up to a certain size of steps over rocks or roots. There were sections that I would have been fine riding on the Jeffsy, but where it was borderline or walking with the Oiz. I can't say for sure if I would have done those on an XL Oiz though. There has to be a difference to bikes like a Jeffsy at some point. Anyway, since you are taller than I am, I think you would find L off getting XL.

  85. #885
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Iím sure this was touched upon many times but Iím really stuck on size. I wanted to do ďmy oĒ. It isnít not available in the XL frame size At the moment. (Makes me wonder why, is there a new frame design coming to the new year model, and they are out of xl and decided not to produce any more?) My occam is an xl. Iím comfortable riding it. But I really believe Iím in between two sizes here. And Iím wondering if I should try a large and just add a longer stem to get the reach I want. According to orbea website I should be on a large. Iím somewhere between 6í1Ē and 6í2Ē. With a 33-34Ē inseam. Anyone close in size that can share their decision?
    When it comes to frames Orbea are in Spain so they've probably been affected by the coronavirus lockdown there.

    The main thing to consider with the sizing is that if you have long arms the Orbea Oiz top tubes aren't that long. If you prefer more reach then the XL would be the better choice by far.

    I'm 6' tall with a 34" inseam. My Orbea Oiz is a Size Large with an 80mm stem but I have a 25mm FSA K-Force Light layback seatpost fitted. With an inline post it would have been too cramped for me. The Size Large is very borderline!

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-ngeco-side-1.jpg

    https://forums.mtbr.com/orbea/new-oi...l#post14473109

  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by redwarrior View Post
    Yes, I put the smallest purple one in mine M10 TR. You may need a strap wrench to unscrew the barrel from the cap. The whole process takes maybe 5 minutes or so.

    Before the spacer, I was running 15% sag to get the pedaling efficiency I like. With the spacer, I dropped 10psi air pressure & am running 20% sag & like it a lot. Feels like the rear wheel is tracking the ground better on smaller bumps, roots, etc.
    I'm on the second smallest volume reducer. The TR definitely needs it as the spring curve is very linear. It feels so much better with less volume.

    Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk

  87. #887
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    Well I got some bad news today, The only offering the have on an xl oiz is the mint green color. No ďmy oĒ for large or xl for remainder of 2020 models. They will not be producing anymore 2020 models in xl. So whatís left is it. Iím not too keen on the mint for myself (just personal preference). So it looks like Iíll be waiting to hopefully order one of the first 2021 models. My assumption was that they are switching over to a new design, and Iím afraid I might be correct. I really hope they donít mimic the rallon or new occam frame design or Iíll be looking at another brand.

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Well I got some bad news today, The only offering the have on an xl oiz is the mint green color. No ďmy oĒ for large or xl for remainder of 2020 models. They will not be producing anymore 2020 models in xl. So whatís left is it. Iím not too keen on the mint for myself (just personal preference). So it looks like Iíll be waiting to hopefully order one of the first 2021 models. My assumption was that they are switching over to a new design, and Iím afraid I might be correct. I really hope they donít mimic the rallon or new occam frame design or Iíll be looking at another brand.
    I'd be surprised if it's a completely new mold. The current one is only two years old. I imagine there will be some component changes and with the pandemic there are going to be supply chain shortages that the model year rollover will help offset.

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  89. #889
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    I hope youíre right! I like the oiz just the way it is.

  90. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by redwarrior View Post
    Yes, I put the smallest purple one in mine M10 TR. You may need a strap wrench to unscrew the barrel from the cap. The whole process takes maybe 5 minutes or so.
    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    I'm on the second smallest volume reducer. The TR definitely needs it as the spring curve is very linear. It feels so much better with less volume.
    Thanks guys! I'll try a smaller spacer first! If any of you has a spacer still lying around and comes around to measuring the diameters, I'd appreciate it. I am going to 3D print one and confirmed measurements would be nice. With a a 9mm shaft slit, the outer diameter should be 1 1/2" and the inner diameter 35/64" - or 38 mm and 14 mm, respectively. I picked the nearest inch fractions. This should have a volume of approximately 0,2"^3 when the thickness is 11/64" or 4.37 mm.

    Daniel
    Daniel

  91. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    I really hope they donít mimic the rallon or new occam frame design or Iíll be looking at another brand.
    I also think that this is very unlikely. It would mean redesigning the whole suspension, loss of the second water bottle and an increase in frame weight. No idea what benefits there could be that would justify messing with the frame like that.

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    Hi all, just made it through all 5 pages- quite an entertaining 2 lock/3 lock 'discussion'!

    My question- has anyone got an H10? I've seen lots of M10 TR chat which is great to read but was wondering if people were on M20 TRs or H10s? I'm after weights etc, to see if the extra £800 is worth it?

    Also looking at sizing, I'm 181cm with 89cm inseam. Looks like XL is the one for me- which seems mad as I'm L in everything else but the last thing I want is a cramped position!

    Thanks very much

  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    Hi all, just made it through all 5 pages- quite an entertaining 2 lock/3 lock 'discussion'!

    My question- has anyone got an H10? I've seen lots of M10 TR chat which is great to read but was wondering if people were on M20 TRs or H10s? I'm after weights etc, to see if the extra £800 is worth it?

    Thanks very much
    It depends how much $800 is worth to you. The alu frame is going to be at most 400g lighter. So that's $2 per gram.

    Unless you're going for the M10 the M20 isn't worth it. You save a small amount of weight, and get an X01 mech, which is the same weight as a GX on the H10. The only upgrade on the mech is the pivot bolt assembly. Which you can buy separately for like $20.

    Plus the alu model looks like carbon.

    Find a cheap deal on the M20 that makes it the same price as the H10, or save more for the M10 TR.

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  94. #894
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    Cheers for that, as I thought, not worth the £800 and the jump to M10 is more than I am prepared for- the H10 will be more than enough and not that much heavier anyway. Thanks!

  95. #895
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    I would just get the mint green. The paint is so bad on these things that your bike will be full of chips and scratches in a month or too.
    So either it won't matter or you will want to get it re-painted.

    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Well I got some bad news today, The only offering the have on an xl oiz is the mint green color. No ďmy oĒ for large or xl for remainder of 2020 models. They will not be producing anymore 2020 models in xl. So whatís left is it. Iím not too keen on the mint for myself (just personal preference). So it looks like Iíll be waiting to hopefully order one of the first 2021 models. My assumption was that they are switching over to a new design, and Iím afraid I might be correct. I really hope they donít mimic the rallon or new occam frame design or Iíll be looking at another brand.

  96. #896
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    Even tho I can agree about the terrible paint quality, I can also say that mine has been spotless ever since I wrapped the frame with an invisiframe kit.

    I've been riding a lot in really muddy conditions and it totally saved the paint.

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    Hey guyz,
    You probably already talked about it but it is a big thread and I cant read everything..
    What is the weight of stock XC M10 w/wo dropper?

    Thank you

  98. #898
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    Quote Originally Posted by sid700 View Post
    Hey guyz,
    You probably already talked about it but it is a big thread and I cant read everything..
    What is the weight of stock XC M10 w/wo dropper?

    Thank you
    23-24lbs if I recall correctly.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  99. #899
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    I'm 6'2" with a 34 inseam and very comfortable on an XL.

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    Iím 5í10Ē/178cm with 32Ē/81cm inseam and looking to get an Oiz TR. The site recommends size M but looks like Iím also on the border between M and L.

    For those of you around the same height, what size did you go for?

  101. #901
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    Iím 6Ē/183cm with 34Ē/86cm inseam and I ride size L. Comparing to my size L Jeffsy, I think the XL Oiz would work as well. My guess is you could ride either size. I find the Oiz a LOT more playful than the Jeffsy, which I like a lot. I believe that the shorter frame of the Oiz is a contributing factor here.

    You will have to consider your preferred saddle height. I have the 150 mm dropper and 25 mm of insertion left. Comparing the numbers, with size L you may need to get the 125 mm dropper and insert it all the way to get a comfortable saddle height.

  102. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2020 Orbea Oiz XTR M9100 Clutch.jpg 
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ID:	1326169

    On the Current Shimano rear derailleurs you have a lever that turns the clutch on or off. For riding the clutch should be turned on but for taking the rear wheel out it's best to shift the bike down to close to the smallest rear sprocket and turn the clutch off.

    The strength of the clutch can be adjusted to make it stronger or weaker. If you look at the underside of the derailleur there's a small rubber cap that you pop back and then using a 1.5mm allen key you can turn the clutch adjuster to change the clutch strength. In the picture above it's where the allen key is. If you have the clutch set to really strong then you're not going to get any chain slap but it does increase the amount of hand pressure needed to change gear by pressing the shifters.

    I try and keep the clutch strength fairly low so that I don't get too much hand fatigue from changing gear.

    You can also take the clutch apart and give it a service as per this page if it's playing up:

    https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-rep...illeur-clutch/

    .
    I just overhauled the clutch on two derailleurs, very easy and effective maintenance procedure.

    In a "Clutch" you can also squirt some oil into through the clutch adjustment port.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  103. #903
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    Orbea's site show all Oiz as unavailable except small.

    Probably getting ready to introduce a new version in the next few months.
    by Silentfoe
    I'm satisfied knowing that what I wear during my "day" job makes me more of a man than you'll ever be.

  104. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    I just overhauled the clutch on two derailleurs, very easy and effective maintenance procedure.

    In a "Clutch" you can also squirt some oil into through the clutch adjustment port.
    I noticed I mislabelled that picture with the On and Off for the clutch lever the wrong way round.

    The clutch on my Shimano XTR M9100 rear derailleur is fine but that's more than can be said for the shifter. On Tuesday I was 2 hours ride from home when my 5.5 months old Shimano XTR M9100 shifter failed. The large thumb paddle lost any clicks so it was impossible to change gear into a larger sprocket. The small trigger for shifting to a smaller sprocket still worked and could change gear but it wasn't possible to downshift at all.

    I stopped to see if I could fix it, followed by the full arms in the air despairing WHYYYY!!! and banging my head on the bars reaction, before realising I'd stopped next to a house and the occupants were looking across at me like I was mad.

    As it could hold a gear and was in the middle of the block I pedalled home at 10mph stuck in the one gear. You'd have laughed because as I was slowly making my way back on the road another cyclist sat behind me (about 30 metres back so not close) and refused to overtake for miles, even though my bike was toast and I was having to freewheel most of the time with no speed at all.

    I'm going to switch the Orbea Oiz over to a SRAM drivetrain but until the bits turn up I've been riding a loaner demo Specialized Turbo Levo SL ebike this week instead.

  105. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Orbea's site show all Oiz as unavailable except small.

    Probably getting ready to introduce a new version in the next few months.
    Thatís what I thought as well, but I was told by the bike shop that due to the current situation, they are extending the 2020 range and delaying 2021 models until the end of summer.

    So now Iím not sure what to think.

  106. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Thatís what I thought as well, but I was told by the bike shop that due to the current situation, they are extending the 2020 range and delaying 2021 models until the end of summer.

    So now Iím not sure what to think.
    Well they could have easily put September or October on their website for availability but they didn't.

    They wont be making anymore 2020. So I'm guessing 2021 brings a new bike or something new.
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  107. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    Thatís what I thought as well, but I was told by the bike shop that due to the current situation, they are extending the 2020 range and delaying 2021 models until the end of summer.

    So now Iím not sure what to think.
    It's not uncommon for them to do this. The current Rallon, pre-updated linkage, also went through a period of unavailability in some sizes with no major changes.

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  108. #908
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    When I say the bike shop told me, I mean I saw the email dealers got from orbea, a screen shot text to me from the bike shop that says ďwe will be extending our current 2020 range and postponing the launch of our 2021 line until after the summer.Ē Exact words from orbea.

  109. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetglider08 View Post
    When I say the bike shop told me, I mean I saw the email dealers got from orbea, a screen shot text to me from the bike shop that says ďwe will be extending our current 2020 range and postponing the launch of our 2021 line until after the summer.Ē Exact words from orbea.
    Like I said it's not uncommon for them. The same thing happened with the Rallon, once after release and once on model year cut over.

    In this instance there are two factors at play, both related to the pandemic. My O orders are horribly backed up and continually getting pushed out, even stuff that should have been done right as Spain shut down and there is also componetry scarcity for certain lines.

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  110. #910
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    "Bike are the new toilet paper". Getting hard to find new bikes.

    I wonder what changes they are making to the Oiz. If I was to guess it would be a change in the rear swing arm. A bit more tire clearance and stiffen it up.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  111. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    I noticed I mislabelled that picture with the On and Off for the clutch lever the wrong way round.

    The clutch on my Shimano XTR M9100 rear derailleur is fine but that's more than can be said for the shifter. On Tuesday I was 2 hours ride from home when my 5.5 months old Shimano XTR M9100 shifter failed. The large thumb paddle lost any clicks so it was impossible to change gear into a larger sprocket. The small trigger for shifting to a smaller sprocket still worked and could change gear but it wasn't possible to downshift at all.

    I stopped to see if I could fix it, followed by the full arms in the air despairing WHYYYY!!! and banging my head on the bars reaction, before realising I'd stopped next to a house and the occupants were looking across at me like I was mad.

    As it could hold a gear and was in the middle of the block I pedalled home at 10mph stuck in the one gear. You'd have laughed because as I was slowly making my way back on the road another cyclist sat behind me (about 30 metres back so not close) and refused to overtake for miles, even though my bike was toast and I was having to freewheel most of the time with no speed at all.

    I'm going to switch the Orbea Oiz over to a SRAM drivetrain but until the bits turn up I've been riding a loaner demo Specialized Turbo Levo SL ebike this week instead.
    Well that sucks!! I think you are like me and take really good care of your bike. I know random mechanicals really piss me off. At least you will have a new shifter when sell that drivetrain.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  112. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    Well that sucks!! I think you are like me and take really good care of your bike. I know random mechanicals really piss me off. At least you will have a new shifter when sell that drivetrain.
    The Shimano XTR M9100 shifter has gone back to be replaced under warranty. It was working fine then I did a multi shift going down 2 gears at once and that was it no more gears. It was completely without warning.

    On the plus side it did stay in a middle gear so wasn't as bad as when a rear derailleur gets destroyed and you have to break the chain to get it short enough to pedal back home single speed.

    I do try and look after my bikes because it's a false economy to neglect them. If something fails when riding it can be really serious, either ending up stranded in the middle of nowhere or even a really big crash. When I crashed in 2012, re-breaking my left femur and separating my left shoulder, that was all down to a worn SPD cleat and pulling my right foot out of the pedal when sprinting, my unclipped foot then went into the front wheel and flipped the bike end over end . That was a year off the bike and many hospital visits all for the sake of some £15 SPD cleats.

  113. #913
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    On the plus side it did stay in a middle gear so wasn't as bad as when a rear derailleur gets destroyed and you have to break the chain to get it short enough to pedal back home single speed.
    Something like that happened to me once when I took my bike with me on a business trip. I arrived at my room the afternoon the day before and went for a ride where I broke my derailleur hanger and didn't have a spare. I figured I would do the 25k to my meeting the next day singlespeed and shortened the chain for a reasonable gear. Problem was, many times when I had to put some more power down to make it up an incline, the frame would warp just enough for the chain to shift up, which put me into a fairly hard stop because the chain tension then became too high to continue pedaling.

    BTW, you could have adjusted the derailleur to a faster gear by manipulating the cable tension at the derailleur end. Or release the cable and work with the limit screw.

  114. #914
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    I am looking for a Squidlock to upgrade my 2019. I need to combine the dropper and suspension remotes to open up bar space to install inner bar ends. I want to create a different hand position for 6-12 hour events.
    Orbea showed immediate availability when I submitted the order but now shows year 2100 lol.
    Anyone know of a source of a Squidlock in the US right now?

  115. #915
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnm65 View Post
    I am looking for a Squidlock to upgrade my 2019. I need to combine the dropper and suspension remotes to open up bar space to install inner bar ends. I want to create a different hand position for 6-12 hour events.
    Orbea showed immediate availability when I submitted the order but now shows year 2100 lol.
    Anyone know of a source of a Squidlock in the US right now?
    i ordered one from orbea in January and forgot about it. Saw the order in my email a week ago and emailed orbea us for status. They shipped one overnight from Spain, had it in 2 days. Havenít installed yet as it looks kinda fidgety to get it dialed and no patience these days. Anyways, point is they appear to have them, contact orbea directly.
    Ď19 orbea oiz tr
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  116. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    i ordered one from orbea in January and forgot about it. Saw the order in my email a week ago and emailed orbea us for status. They shipped one overnight from Spain, had it in 2 days. Havenít installed yet as it looks kinda fidgety to get it dialed and no patience these days. Anyways, point is they appear to have them, contact orbea directly.
    Thanks. I did just that - contacted Orbea via website and quickly received an email back saying they are checking on the order.

  117. #917
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    After a week spent ebiking on a Specialized Turbo Levo SL my Orbea Oiz is working again.

    It's now got a SRAM Eagle AXS XX1 shifter and rear derailleur but is still running a Shimano XTR M9100 10-51 cassette and Shimano XTR M9100 chain. To fit the SRAM shifter I've used a Wolftooth MM-ISEV matchmaker shiftmount to attach it to the Shimano XT M8120 brake lever

    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...14423010803747

    You can't slide the SRAM Eagle AXS shifter fully inboard as the shift lever will touch the edge of the mount. It's ok like this for me but to go anymore inboard would mean cutting the matchmaker up.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-wolftooth.jpg

    On an Orbea Oiz specific note fitting the SRAM Eagle AXS shifter and derailleur is easy. Where you need to be really careful doing is taking the internally routed gear outer out of the frame. What I hadn't realised is that the small allen bolt that stops the cable moving in the chainstay has a free nut on the inside. I took the allen bolt out, only to discover the nut has fallen down inside the carbon fibre chainstay. Yes it rattles.

    There doesn't seem to be a way to get the nut out without taking the entire rear triangle off the bike.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-cable-allen-bolt.jpg

    To setup the gears were straightforwards. I left the chainlength the same as it had been with the Shimano XTR M9100 derailleur, took the slack out with the B tension screw and that's about all it took to get the AXS shifting nicely on the Shimano 10-51 cassette!

    This picture shows the rear derailleur and shifter connected in the SRAM AXS app. To fine tune the gears tap on the derailleur and that will take you to the micro adjust page

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-setup1.jpg

    On the adjustment page you have a display showing the adjust point of the gears and what gear you're in. This is a live display so to set the gears you have this page of the app showing next to where you're working on the bike.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-setup2.jpg

    You then do a micro adjust by holding the small AXS button on the underside of the shifter and tapping the shifter in the direction you want to adjust. It starts at 15/31 and you can then move it in one step increments until the gears are smooth. This is really nice as you can see exactly what change you're making and the effect it's having on the gear alignment. With the set numbers there's far less guesswork than indexing a cable shifter by feel.

    The SRAM AXS shifters connect via ANT+ to a Garmin or Wahoo bike computer. This picture shows what this looks like on my Wahoo Elemnt Bolt with the graphical gear display, and also gear number showing. This is a live display and changes as you ride to show the gear you're in.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-wahoo-3.jpg

    To set the detailed gear sprocket numbers in the Wahoo app tap on the sensor, choose configure gear ratios and then manually enter your chainring size and
    sprockets.

    For my bike this is a 34 tooth front chainring and Shimano XTR M9100 12 speed 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51 sprockets. (A SRAM Eagle XX1 12 speed cassette is 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36-42-50 sprockets )

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-wahoo-1.jpg

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-wahoo-2.jpg

  118. #918
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    With this setup the gear you're in and your gear shifts are saved into the ride .fit file. It doesn't show in Strava but you do get a summary in the Wahoo app or your choice of analysis software post ride. This is what it looks like in WKO4 for a short 20 minute section of a ride up a climb. Click on the pictures for a larger version. In this graph the purple line shows what gear I was in. I actually changed gear 102 times (a gear shift on average every 12 seconds! ) for just this short 20 minute section of the ride. Over the full 3 hour ride I changed gear 740 times.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-graph1.jpg

    When the gear shifts are grouped together for the climb this is the pattern that it shows:

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-graph2.jpg

    I don't seem to like the 34x33 tooth gear for some reason!

    You can see from the table that I didn't use the bottom 34x51 tooth gear either, even on the steepest 15% gradient section. This is something I've been finding all the time on this bike, including with the XTR derailleurs previously, that the 2nd from bottom gear 34x45 tooth gear tends to feel nicer and is quite close in speed to the bottom 34x51 tooth gear so I'll stay off the bottom gear as much as I can unless it's a really steep climb. It's probably something to do with the worse chainline at the extremes of the 12 speed cassette.

  119. #919
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    I was doing a bit of power meter comparison testing so put my Orbea Oiz on my Tacx Neo 2T turbo trainer today. I usually have an old bike on there as a dedicated turbo trainer bike so I hadn't actually tried to see if it would fit before now.

    The Tacx Neo 2T uses the bike's thru axle to attach so it was a case of swapping the Tacx non drive side end cap from 142x12mm to the 148x12mm version and bolting it on.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-tacx-neo-2t-1.jpg

    It fitted nicely with plenty of space for the disc brake. With a 142x12mm frame it's a case of needing to move the brake caliper out to stop it touching so the 148x12mm frame is much easier to do.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-tacx-neo-2t-2.jpg

    I have an 11 speed Shimano Ultegra 11-32 cassette on the turbo trainer and the indexing was nowhere near perfect. I was able to get a middle gear to run acceptably, good enough for an erg mode interval session, but it wouldn't be a straight swap between wheel and turbo trainer like this. I reckon it could be interchangeable with an XD driver and 12 speed SRAM cassette on the turbo trainer but didn't have one on hand to try.

    This bike has a 29x2.3" front tyre and that seemed to be pitching the bike up a little on the front. To match the rear height I have a 29x2.1" front tyre on my dedicated turbo trainer bike that makes the wheel axle heights seem more even.

    Apart from that with the Orbea Oiz suspension locked out it was all nice and worked fine.

    The Power2Max NG Eco power meter readings were reasonably close to the Tacx Neo 2T. At an indicated constant 220 watts on the turbo trainer in erg mode the Power2Max NG Eco was showing 225 watts so within a few percent, unlike the built in power meter of the Specialized Turbo Levo SL which was all over the place.

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    You could get an NX cassette to fit on the regular shimano freehub, unless you want to swap a roadbike on and off in addition to the MTB

  121. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by Udyr View Post
    You could get an NX cassette to fit on the regular shimano freehub, unless you want to swap a roadbike on and off in addition to the MTB
    Interestingly, I'm not sure an NX cassette would be a straight swap. I had the Specialized Turbo Levo SL comp carbon demo bike, which uses a SRAM NX 12 speed 11-50 cassette and SRAM NX 12 speed shifting on the turbo trainer too and that was a perfect fit for the 11 speed cassette on the turbo trainer! The SRAM NX shifting and indexing on that bike was spot on with the turbo trainer 11 speed cassette. It was super smooth through all 11 gears without touching a thing!

    New Oiz-specialized-turbo-levo-sl-turbo-1.jpg

    I think that the 12 speed cassettes with a 10 tooth top sprocket (SRAM XD driver and Shimano Microspline) might sit out wider than the 12 speed cassettes that go on the older style splined freehubs. If I'd put my DT Swiss XRC 1200 wheel and Shimano cassette into the Specialized Turbo Levo SL frame, or vice versa with that bike's rear wheel into the Orbea Oiz, it would have meant redoing the upper and lower limit screws on the rear derailleur before the indexing would work.

    I usually have an old bike with Shimano Deore XT M8000 2x11 speed shifting on the turbo trainer which is why it has a 11 speed cassette on there instead of 12 speed.

  122. #922
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    I meant to add a picture showing the bike in its 34x51 tooth bottom gear with the SRAM AXS rear derailleur.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-low-gear.jpg

    This is with a Shimano XTR M9100 12 speed 10-51 cassette, Shimano XTR M9100 chain and the SRAM AXS rear derailleur. The extra 1 tooth size difference over a SRAM cassette doesn't seem to make a difference and the electronic shifting is smooth up and down the cassette. In the bottom gear you can backpedal the cranks all day and the chain isn't going to fall off.

    I have got a new SRAM XX1 chain, XX1 cassette and a narrow wide chainring to go on but it's working well enough with the current Shimano parts that I think I'm just going to leave them on for now and take a view when the cassette wears out.

  123. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    I meant to add a picture showing the bike in its 34x51 tooth bottom gear with the SRAM AXS rear derailleur.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2020 Orbea Oiz AXS Low Gear.jpg 
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ID:	1333583

    This is with a Shimano XTR M9100 12 speed 10-51 cassette, Shimano XTR M9100 chain and the SRAM AXS rear derailleur. The extra 1 tooth size difference over a SRAM cassette doesn't seem to make a difference and the electronic shifting is smooth up and down the cassette. In the bottom gear you can backpedal the cranks all day and the chain isn't going to fall off.

    I have got a new SRAM XX1 chain, XX1 cassette and a narrow wide chainring to go on but it's working well enough with the current Shimano parts that I think I'm just going to leave them on for now and take a view when the cassette wears out.
    Tough choice between those cassettes. The SRAM is lighter but the shifting performance of the Shimano is so much better. As for wearing out, you will have to wait a while. I am using an XTR cassette with 7000km, it had not issues taking a new chain.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  124. #924
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    Tough choice between those cassettes. The SRAM is lighter but the shifting performance of the Shimano is so much better. As for wearing out, you will have to wait a while. I am using an XTR cassette with 7000km, it had not issues taking a new chain.
    On the Shimano XTR M9100 10-51 cassette the smallest four sprockets are steel, the next five sprockets are titanium and then the largest three sprockets are aluminium. I suspect that it will probably be the smallest of the titanium sprockets (18 tooth) or maybe one of the steel sprockets that starts skipping first but it should be good for another month or two yet hopefully.

    Using the SRAM AXS electronic shifter has been taking a bit of getting used to. With a Shimano or SRAM cable actuated trigger shifter you get a very distinct tactile click with each gear change from the shifter, so you know it's happened. With the SRAM AXS shifter I've got it as default with the bottom of the paddle shifting to a larger rear sprocket and the top of the paddle shifting to a smaller rear sprocket. A downshift pressing the bottom of the paddle gives a bit of a click, so it's fairly obvious it's activated but there isn't much of a click at all when pressing the top of the paddle for upshifts.

    When riding along on the road the main sign of a gear upshift is hearing the servo motor of the rear derailleur whirr. That's fine on the road but on even easy offroad with additional gravel noise under the tyres, suspension noise, the rattle of that loose nut inside the chainstay etc plus the bike bouncing around and trying to concentrate on steering, braking, lines at the same time it can be unclear what's going on gear wise without that tactile feedback from the shifter. More practice needed!

    Apparently the rechargeable battery for the MTB AXS rear derailleur is supposed to last around 16 hours between charges. The problem with this is that there isn't a detailed battery percentage. There's an LED on the rear derailleur that lights up with each shift that I think might change colour from green to red when the battery is running down. That's on the rear derailleur though, which isn't easy to monitor when riding.

    There's also a battery indicator in the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt sensor settings but that only says "Good" and you can only see it in the actual settings menu. The Power2Max power meter will flash up an onscreen low battery message on the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt screen when the battery is low so I'm hoping the gears being connected to the bike computer may do the same thing.

    What I'm intending to do is run it down to completely flat for the first battery (whilst carrying a spare battery! ) so I can get an idea of how many hours to expect in future.

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    I am still using the XT cassette. That is good info that it works with SRAM shifting, because I have a DT Swiss wheelset with Eagle on my Canyon Dude. I can just switch the Shimano and XD freehub body between the fatbike and the Oiz if I want to run an XD cassette. On the first couple rides I was irritated by the spacing on the Shimano cassette, but now I am used to it. The only thing I still miss compared to SRAM 10-50 is the large amount of relief felt when shifting into the largest sprocket because the jump is quite big.

    So, WR304, you are doing 15% gradient on the 2nd sprocket with a 34t chainring and it's fine? Woah! The only reason I still have the stock 34t on is that the tool for the lock ring is not available.
    It's been a month now and most of my riding was on the Oiz and by now I am already suffering at a reasonable cadence when it gets steep, so I am actually considering keeping 34t. I got a OneUp Switch on my fatbike and I already have 28t and 32t chainrings for it. I bought one for the Orbea too so that I can switch chainrings around. The plan was to put on an e*thirteen 9-46 cassette and use the 28t chainring, because that is what I use in winter on the Dude, so I won't need it there for the rest of the year. But now I think that 28x46 would be a step in the wrong direction. I suppose I will have to buy a 30t Switch chainring if I decide to switch cassettes.

  126. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    I am still using the XT cassette. That is good info that it works with SRAM shifting, because I have a DT Swiss wheelset with Eagle on my Canyon Dude. I can just switch the Shimano and XD freehub body between the fatbike and the Oiz if I want to run an XD cassette. On the first couple rides I was irritated by the spacing on the Shimano cassette, but now I am used to it. The only thing I still miss compared to SRAM 10-50 is the large amount of relief felt when shifting into the largest sprocket because the jump is quite big.

    So, WR304, you are doing 15% gradient on the 2nd sprocket with a 34t chainring and it's fine? Woah! The only reason I still have the stock 34t on is that the tool for the lock ring is not available.
    It's been a month now and most of my riding was on the Oiz and by now I am already suffering at a reasonable cadence when it gets steep, so I am actually considering keeping 34t. I got a OneUp Switch on my fatbike and I already have 28t and 32t chainrings for it. I bought one for the Orbea too so that I can switch chainrings around. The plan was to put on an e*thirteen 9-46 cassette and use the 28t chainring, because that is what I use in winter on the Dude, so I won't need it there for the rest of the year. But now I think that 28x46 would be a step in the wrong direction. I suppose I will have to buy a 30t Switch chainring if I decide to switch cassettes.
    The 15% gradient section of that climb was only a short 0.12mile ramp before it flattened off again. It was a 1 minute 16 second effort so just a short burst. If it was a longer section at that sort of gradient I'd have been in trouble with that gearing!

    For the Shimano direct mount chainring you need a Shimano TL-FC41 tool to get the existing chainring off. These come included if you buy a set of new Shimano direct mount crank arms, but didn't come with a complete bike. It would probably be easiest to see if your local bike shop has one to use for the job as it isn't something that gets used much.

    You can also buy the tool separately, showing in stock here: eg:

    https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/sh...-assembly-tool

    or Park Tools make their own LRT-4 Lockring tool that does the same job too:

    https://www.parktool.com/product/loc...ct-mount-lrt-4

    .

  127. #927
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    That is pretty much Nino Schurter gearing, I think it's ok to be in trouble with that on longer sections

    I wanted the Park Tool one, but I was given a delivery time of mid of June by bike-components, where I usually buy my stuff. For the Shimano one, they said end of May. At the same time I also bought something from r2-bike and they said end of April for the TL-FC41, which I didn't quite believe but ordered anyway because I had to wait for the OneUp Switch carrier anyway because of other COVID-19 delays. I didn't look around online beyond that because it's a waste ordering just for a single item that I don't urgently need. Eventually r2-bike said mid of May for the TL-FC41 and I got the shipping notification yesterday.

    But now that you mention the bike shop, it reminds me that I still haven't asked them to get me a spare derailleur hanger! I don't want to go there for the tool, because they will insist on doing it for me and I don't trust the owner with my bike - not only because of general distrust, but because of what I saw when the bike was set up for me for the test ride, but that is another story.

  128. #928
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    What stem size is coming with your large size Orbea Oiz? My 2019 was spec'd with a 90mm with an option for the 70mm when building. It looks like the 2020 now comes standard with the 70mm. I wonder if Orbea felt like the bike works / performs better with the shorter unit.

  129. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    That's a great idea.

    I do love this stem and the riding position. But, I did do a quick test and it barely hits.

    I'm afraid I couldn't leave my shifter loose "enough". I wouldn't know how to judge that. So, I did what any wimp does and ordered a new stem. Wren sports 70mm 6 degree.

    One thing I have to point out is that I cannot get my seatpost to stay up. I've tried all torque settings - 5, 5.5, and 6 Nm. I've also applied 2 different compounds and have used sand paper to rough up my post. No luck.

    As soon as that seat drops, the knee pain starts and I know it's down just enough and I can't think straight. So I ordered a new clamp. Hopefully it will solve the problem or I will have to move on to another post. Bummer!
    My post slipped at first as well. I cleaned it well and applied Park Tool Carbon paste and it has now for several months.

  130. #930
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    My size large 2020 came with a 70mm stem, I changed it to 80mm- Probably going to try a 90mm.

    Don't confuse the size stem that a bike is spec'd with the size that you should actually use.
    People confuse stem length with how a bike handles. Yes, it does influence handling to an extent, but you want to choose stem length based on your personal needs.


    Quote Originally Posted by biffhamilton View Post
    What stem size is coming with your large size Orbea Oiz? My 2019 was spec'd with a 90mm with an option for the 70mm when building. It looks like the 2020 now comes standard with the 70mm. I wonder if Orbea felt like the bike works / performs better with the shorter unit.

  131. #931
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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsie_cat View Post
    My size large 2020 came with a 70mm stem, I changed it to 80mm- Probably going to try a 90mm.

    Don't confuse the size stem that a bike is spec'd with the size that you should actually use.
    People confuse stem length with how a bike handles. Yes, it does influence handling to an extent, but you want to choose stem length based on your personal needs.
    Agreed

    I just found it curious. Maybe they ran out of the 90mm...lol

  132. #932
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    Quote Originally Posted by biffhamilton View Post
    What stem size is coming with your large size Orbea Oiz? My 2019 was spec'd with a 90mm with an option for the 70mm when building. It looks like the 2020 now comes standard with the 70mm. I wonder if Orbea felt like the bike works / performs better with the shorter unit.
    My size Large 2020 Orbea Oiz had the option of either a 70mm or 90mm length stem. There wasn't the choice of an 80mm from new for some reason. I ended up getting the bike and then immediately put the 80mm Specialized S-Works stem and Specialized S-Works flat bars (cut down to 720mm) on from my previous bike.

  133. #933
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnm65 View Post
    My post slipped at first as well. I cleaned it well and applied Park Tool Carbon paste and it has now for several months.
    The FSA K-Force Light carbon seatpost on my 2020 Orbea Oiz has been fine with just carbon paste. It hasn't slipped at all.

    I have had issues on some of my older bikes though. What I did on my 2012 Specialized Epic was to use half a KCNC SC13 double seatpost clamp.

    https://www.bike24.com/p232618.html

    On the 2012 Specialized Epic the KCNC SC13 clamp has the same issue as it would used on an Orbea Oiz. The lower section clamp size doesn't fit the frame so that although the top clamp section will fit the 31.6mm diameter seatpost the lower clamp won't fit the frame. As a work around I cut the clamp in half with a hacksaw and used just the top clamp section with the original lower clamp. That was very effective and I never had an issue with the seatpost again afterwards.

    This picture shows that bike's seatpost setup (it's now my dedicated turbo trainer bike)

    New Oiz-2012-epic-kcnc-sc13.jpg

    On my 2016 Specialized Epic that had even worse issues with the Cannondale Save 2.0 seatpost slipping down in the frame. What I eventually did on that bike was use a KCNC SC13 clamp (the full clamp fitted ok on that bike) but I also put a long strip of electrical tape down the edges of the seatpost and then wedged the whole lot into the frame seat tube so the electrical tape would act as a shim to take up the space. That fix with the electrical tape worked and the seatpost stayed put for the rest of the time I owned that bike.

  134. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    That is pretty much Nino Schurter gearing, I think it's ok to be in trouble with that on longer sections

    I wanted the Park Tool one, but I was given a delivery time of mid of June by bike-components, where I usually buy my stuff. For the Shimano one, they said end of May. At the same time I also bought something from r2-bike and they said end of April for the TL-FC41, which I didn't quite believe but ordered anyway because I had to wait for the OneUp Switch carrier anyway because of other COVID-19 delays. I didn't look around online beyond that because it's a waste ordering just for a single item that I don't urgently need. Eventually r2-bike said mid of May for the TL-FC41 and I got the shipping notification yesterday.

    But now that you mention the bike shop, it reminds me that I still haven't asked them to get me a spare derailleur hanger! I don't want to go there for the tool, because they will insist on doing it for me and I don't trust the owner with my bike - not only because of general distrust, but because of what I saw when the bike was set up for me for the test ride, but that is another story.
    That lockring on the back of the Shimano crankset is very thin. On my bike with its Power2max NG Eco power meter the lockring holds the power meter spider on whilst the actual 104BCD chainrings attach with chainring bolts so the direct mount lockring doesn't need removing normally.

    So far I've done 19 hours riding and 4,200 rear gear shifts on the SRAM AXS rear derailleur. It's still showing as Good battery level at the moment without having changed the battery for a fresh one as yet.

    I've been getting more used to the AXS shifting now. It's taken me a while but using it is getting more natural with the paddles. I got back from my ride today, got on the turbo trainer for my post ride cooldown (the turbo trainer bike has Shimano Deore XT M8000 shifters) and I was initially completely lost as I was still reaching for where the AXS paddles are trying automatically to shift! That's a good sign I think.

    One downside of SRAM AXS is that there was a storm overnight and high winds so lots of sticks and branches had come down. I was riding along under some trees on these sticks and hearing them cracking under the tyres I was immediately stressing out about the vulnerability of that expensive electronic rear derailleur if a stick went into it.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-axs-shifter-wahoo-battery.jpg

  135. #935
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    Hey guys, I am back after some time.
    Skimmed through all the posts, phew, it was a lot.

    I was riding my Oiz TR a lot recently and have been thinking about adjusting it's suspension. The fork is completely fine, it's the rear shock I would like to adjust.
    The "problem" is that the suspension is quite active when pedalling, and it dives through travel during slow g-outs (climbing), which is pretty annoying. I have been thinking of getting the shock tune changed to digressive (both compression and rebound), but I am not sure how exactly it would impact it's performance.

    My current shock pressure is 160 psi and my weight is ~68 kg geared up. If I recall correctly the sag is 25 %, measured when seated. I could try increasing the shock pressure, but I am not sure if this is the right way to go, because even during my quite aggressive descents I haven't managed to bottom out the shock. Always a few mms left on the piston. This is also why I haven't considered getting spacers for the shock, until I read about someone happy with it in this thread.

    What do you think and what would you consider, or what would be your steps in adjusting the suspension?

    Thanks, cheers

  136. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    On an Orbea Oiz specific note fitting the SRAM Eagle AXS shifter and derailleur is easy. Where you need to be really careful doing is taking the internally routed gear outer out of the frame. What I hadn't realised is that the small allen bolt that stops the cable moving in the chainstay has a free nut on the inside. I took the allen bolt out, only to discover the nut has fallen down inside the carbon fibre chainstay. Yes it rattles.
    You totally saved me from painful work there! The non-drive side screw on mine is rusty. A screw that rusts, on a new 4899Ä bike. I wanted to replace it and I am glad that I decided that it must be with a bronze-ish aluminium screw, which I still need to get.

    I have just installed the OneUp Switch and was looking forward to having the 32t oval chainring on, only to learn that there is something different about the Shimano 12spd chains. I can either get a new updated chainring or try a different chain. I have a KMC X12. Any idea if that will shift well with the XT cassette?

  137. #937
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    You totally saved me from painful work there! The non-drive side screw on mine is rusty. A screw that rusts, on a new 4899Ä bike. I wanted to replace it and I am glad that I decided that it must be with a bronze-ish aluminium screw, which I still need to get.

    I have just installed the OneUp Switch and was looking forward to having the 32t oval chainring on, only to learn that there is something different about the Shimano 12spd chains. I can either get a new updated chainring or try a different chain. I have a KMC X12. Any idea if that will shift well with the XT cassette?
    Those two allen bolts for holding the cables in the chainstays are exposed and get every single bit of dirt and moisture off the front wheel. Water gets in the chainstays too. There was white aluminium corrosion all over the gear cable outer that I pulled out of the frame in that area from where the aluminium inserts in the chainstay had been corroding.

    Have you fitted the newest OneUp Switch Shimano compatible chainring? According to this product page this model is specifically 12 speed Shimano compatible:

    https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/switch-shimano

    With the Shimano 12 speed chains apparently the difference is in the quick link. The actual chain links could work on the chainring if you replace the quick link with a SRAM or KMC 12 speed quick link instead:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/shimano/m910...s-1096476.html

    Post 515 Onwards:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...l#post13937123

  138. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDee81 View Post
    Hey guys, I am back after some time.
    Skimmed through all the posts, phew, it was a lot.

    I was riding my Oiz TR a lot recently and have been thinking about adjusting it's suspension. The fork is completely fine, it's the rear shock I would like to adjust.
    The "problem" is that the suspension is quite active when pedalling, and it dives through travel during slow g-outs (climbing), which is pretty annoying. I have been thinking of getting the shock tune changed to digressive (both compression and rebound), but I am not sure how exactly it would impact it's performance.

    My current shock pressure is 160 psi and my weight is ~68 kg geared up. If I recall correctly the sag is 25 %, measured when seated. I could try increasing the shock pressure, but I am not sure if this is the right way to go, because even during my quite aggressive descents I haven't managed to bottom out the shock. Always a few mms left on the piston. This is also why I haven't considered getting spacers for the shock, until I read about someone happy with it in this thread.

    What do you think and what would you consider, or what would be your steps in adjusting the suspension?

    Thanks, cheers
    Don't bother getting it tuned just yet - a volume reducer will work wonders for ramping up the spring curve.

    Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk

  139. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Don't bother getting it tuned just yet - a volume reducer will work wonders for ramping up the spring curve.

    Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk
    But I don't want to ramp up the curve. The suspension is progressive enough, maybe even too much.

    That's why I am asking about the digressive tune which is stock on the XC versions. The diving through travel I meant doesn't happen when descending or riding out of the saddle, but rather riding on flat or uphill and hitting a small roller like hole when seated. Small hole or roller is enough to make the suspension dive, return and oscillate a few times. Actually it's mostly on flats when going 20-30 kph, pedalling constantly, when it causes most concern, because there's no problem pedalling through the hole, but the diving suspension is making pedalling through much harder and uncomfortable. Hardtail would handle these holes much better probably.

  140. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    With the Shimano 12 speed chains apparently the difference is in the quick link. The actual chain links could work on the chainring if you replace the quick link with a SRAM or KMC 12 speed quick link instead:
    I didn't get a the new OneUp rings because I thought I could use the ones I had. Being able to easily switch around chainrings was why I got it in the first place.
    It's not just the quick link. The whole chain does not fit the wide teeth anymore because the inner links are extending too much beyond the pin. It is shown here:

    https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/infor...perglide-.html

    I have used a KMC X12 chain for the ride yesterday and didn't notice anything off with the shifting, so I will just keep it until I have made up my mind about going a bit weight-weenie and replace the XT cassette.

  141. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDee81 View Post
    But I don't want to ramp up the curve. The suspension is progressive enough, maybe even too much.

    That's why I am asking about the digressive tune which is stock on the XC versions. The diving through travel I meant doesn't happen when descending or riding out of the saddle, but rather riding on flat or uphill and hitting a small roller like hole when seated. Small hole or roller is enough to make the suspension dive, return and oscillate a few times. Actually it's mostly on flats when going 20-30 kph, pedalling constantly, when it causes most concern, because there's no problem pedalling through the hole, but the diving suspension is making pedalling through much harder and uncomfortable. Hardtail would handle these holes much better probably.
    This is the exact same problem I have with the TR (linear) tune. It's set up for long hours in the saddle. The digressive tune will prevent the wallowing when hitting the small stuff and will get softer for the big stuff.

    Just send your shock into Fox requesting the XC tune

  142. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    I didn't get a the new OneUp rings because I thought I could use the ones I had. Being able to easily switch around chainrings was why I got it in the first place.
    It's not just the quick link. The whole chain does not fit the wide teeth anymore because the inner links are extending too much beyond the pin. It is shown here:

    https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/infor...perglide-.html

    I have used a KMC X12 chain for the ride yesterday and didn't notice anything off with the shifting, so I will just keep it until I have made up my mind about going a bit weight-weenie and replace the XT cassette.
    I didn't know that was the case with the inner links. That probably explains why in the forum links it was saying it worked if the chainring was already part worn, so there was a looser fit between the chain and chainring teeth allowing the extended inner links to seat a bit better.

    Chainrings are usually made of aluminium alloy that's fairly soft. One work around could be to get a metal file and lightly file down the edges of each of the wide teeth on the One Up chainring until they're thin enough for the Shimano chain to seat fully.

  143. #943
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDee81 View Post
    But I don't want to ramp up the curve. The suspension is progressive enough, maybe even too much.

    That's why I am asking about the digressive tune which is stock on the XC versions. The diving through travel I meant doesn't happen when descending or riding out of the saddle, but rather riding on flat or uphill and hitting a small roller like hole when seated. Small hole or roller is enough to make the suspension dive, return and oscillate a few times. Actually it's mostly on flats when going 20-30 kph, pedalling constantly, when it causes most concern, because there's no problem pedalling through the hole, but the diving suspension is making pedalling through much harder and uncomfortable. Hardtail would handle these holes much better probably.
    I've got the 100m travel Orbea Oiz (not the TR version).

    It sounds to me like you should try adding more air pressure to the rear shock, to firm the rear suspension up until the bike pedals acceptably, and then also increase the amount of rebound damping by a few clicks, so that it's more controlled on the return stroke and less likely to oscillate in the way you're describing.

    That extra air pressure will mean you won't get full travel, and have less sag also, but the trade off of reduced dive could be worth it.

  144. #944
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    I've seen so many people whoa re 6ft on Large and XL. I have long legs and arms and am 181cm/89cm inseam. Reckon XL is the way to go? Very tricky when I have none to test ride nearby! Thanks

  145. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    I've seen so many people whoa re 6ft on Large and XL. I have long legs and arms and am 181cm/89cm inseam. Reckon XL is the way to go? Very tricky when I have none to test ride nearby! Thanks
    Edit: See Post 953
    Last edited by WR304; 1 Week Ago at 09:49 AM.

  146. #946
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    Great, thanks for the help. XL just sounds like it'll be cumbersome and massive but I don't think that's the case!

  147. #947
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    I've seen so many people whoa re 6ft on Large and XL. I have long legs and arms and am 181cm/89cm inseam. Reckon XL is the way to go? Very tricky when I have none to test ride nearby! Thanks
    XL seems too big for 181/89 cm. Especially when you have quite a short torso. The distance between saddle and bar may be too big for you. Iím 180/85 and my Oiz in size L is perfect. Most brands put me even between size M or L. XL would definitely be too big for me. Since youíre only 1 cm taller (with shorter torso)........


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  148. #948
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy1980 View Post
    XL seems too big for 181/89 cm. Especially when you have quite a short torso. The distance between saddle and bar may be too big for you. Iím 180/85 and my Oiz in size L is perfect. Most brands put me even between size M or L. XL would definitely be too big for me. Since youíre only 1 cm taller (with shorter torso)........
    183/86 and I agree, as long as the 70 mm stem is on. With a shorter stem the length would be ok, but then it's a question of what kind of ride feel you want from the bike.

  149. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    183/86 and I agree, as long as the 70 mm stem is on. With a shorter stem the length would be ok, but then it's a question of what kind of ride feel you want from the bike.
    I have a large Scale at the moment with a 100mm -13 stem on, so equivalent Oiz would be Large and 90mm stem. I want something that feels lively and chuckable. Thanks for the help

  150. #950
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    New Oiz

    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    I have a large Scale at the moment with a 100mm -13 stem on, so equivalent Oiz would be Large and 90mm stem. I want something that feels lively and chuckable. Thanks for the help
    You need a long stem because of your long arms or just because you like a stretched position? I use a 80 mm stem and have a longer torso.


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  151. #951
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    Bit of both! I guess a large with a 80/90 stem would work nicely. That's what I was aiming for but I saw a few posts in this thread from people of similar builds saying it was quite cramped.

  152. #952
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    Bit of both! I guess a large with a 80/90 stem would work nicely. That's what I was aiming for but I saw a few posts in this thread from people of similar builds saying it was quite cramped.
    Ah ok, well i guess you just need to try it. Replacing a stem is easy Good luck!


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  153. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    I've seen so many people whoa re 6ft on Large and XL. I have long legs and arms and am 181cm/89cm inseam. Reckon XL is the way to go? Very tricky when I have none to test ride nearby! Thanks
    ...
    I have a large Scale at the moment with a 100mm -13 stem on, so equivalent Oiz would be Large and 90mm stem. I want something that feels lively and chuckable. Thanks for the help
    Having had a think about this the correct reply would be to ask what your arm length measurement is (from your shoulder bone to your wrist with the arm straight ) and what your saddle - handlebar drop is on your current bike?

    My (rounded) measurements are:

    Height 6' / 183cm
    Leg inseam 34" / 86cm
    Arm length shoulder to wrist 23" / 59cm

    When I went to the Scott web site they have a really nice size estimator tool where you can enter your measurements and it will then give you a sliding scale diagram of roughly what size frame you should try.

    Click on the Find Your Size button on the right hand side and follow the steps:

    https://www.scott-sports.com/gb/en/p...icle=274586008

    New Oiz-scott-smartfit-1.jpg

    New Oiz-scott-smartfit-2.jpg

    The Scott geometry isn't exactly the same as Orbea but that tool gives a rough idea.

    For my measurements that's bang in the middle for a size Large Scott Scale, not between sizes. If you're happy on a Large Scott Scale, particularly with a negative rise 100mm stem, then the Large Orbea Oiz would probably be the correct size too.

  154. #954
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    Awesome, thanks for the advice- I'm 181/89 leg/61 arm and bang in the middle of Large for Scott. I think a large Oiz with an 80/90 stem will be spot on. cheers

  155. #955
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    The lower shockmount bolt that attached the rear shock to the swinglink on my Orbea Oiz snapped today. It had done 249 hours riding and had been in use for 6.5 months.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-snapped-shockmount-1.jpg

    I've attached a picture showing the broken alloy bolt. The black slug on the left of the picture is the shaped threaded nut normally located on the drive side of the swinglink that the alloy bolt threads into. I hadn't checked the bolt tightnesses for a few weeks but this bolt was tight quite recently. It could quite possibly have come loose, and then broken, but my feeling is that it's broken from repeated stresses over time. The bolt had snapped right on the thread where it enters the built in threaded nut on the other side of the frame.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-snapped-shockmount-2.jpg

    When it broke riding through a small bump there was a really loud carbon fibre cracking noise. I initially thought the seatpost might have snapped it was that loud!

    The carbon fibre swinglink doesn't look that nice on the side where it had broken. The inside of the hole in the carbon fibre swinglink looks a bit oval so I'm hoping that the bolt breaking, and then having to ride the bike home afterwards, hasn't damaged that too. The bolt snapped off deep within the swinglink so the shock was left supported enough on what remained of the bolt from the other side that I could ride it home without the rear suspension collapsing completely.

    Click on the picture for a bigger version.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-snapped-shockmount-3.jpg

    The bolt is available as a spare part from Orbea. OIZ HYDRO 2020 SHOCK FIXING BOLTS KIT Ref. Y0000148

    https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/gear/spa...dor-oiz-h-2020

    This bolt clearly takes a lot of load, due to the way the bike suspension works, so I suspect that I could keep potentially breaking the alloy bolts repeatedly in the same place every 6 months or so. My current plan is to get a replacement Orbea bolt, but also have a steel bolt of the same dimensions made and use that stronger steel bolt instead so it doesn't happen again.

  156. #956
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    Can you take a better picture of the fracture surfaces?

    By steel you mean Titanium, right?

  157. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    The lower shockmount bolt that attached the rear shock to the swinglink on my Orbea Oiz snapped today. It had done 249 hours riding and had been in use for 6.5 months.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've attached a picture showing the broken alloy bolt. The black slug on the left of the picture is the shaped threaded nut normally located on the drive side of the swinglink that the alloy bolt threads into. I hadn't checked the bolt tightnesses for a few weeks but this bolt was tight quite recently. It could quite possibly have come loose, and then broken, but my feeling is that it's broken from repeated stresses over time. The bolt had snapped right on the thread where it enters the built in threaded nut on the other side of the frame.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    When it broke riding through a small bump there was a really loud carbon fibre cracking noise. I initially thought the seatpost might have snapped it was that loud!

    The carbon fibre swinglink doesn't look that nice on the side where it had broken. The inside of the hole in the carbon fibre swinglink looks a bit oval so I'm hoping that the bolt breaking, and then having to ride the bike home afterwards, hasn't damaged that too. The bolt snapped off deep within the swinglink so the shock was left supported enough on what remained of the bolt from the other side that I could ride it home without the rear suspension collapsing completely.

    Click on the picture for a bigger version.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The bolt is available as a spare part from Orbea. OIZ HYDRO 2020 SHOCK FIXING BOLTS KIT Ref. Y0000148

    https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/gear/spa...dor-oiz-h-2020

    This bolt clearly takes a lot of load, due to the way the bike suspension works, so I suspect that I could keep potentially breaking the alloy bolts repeatedly in the same place every 6 months or so. My current plan is to get a replacement Orbea bolt, but also have a steel bolt of the same dimensions made and use that stronger steel bolt instead so it doesn't happen again.
    Welcome to the party pal!

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  158. #958
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    FYI.....That bolt is super soft / light aluminum. I think there is a possibility that if over-torqued it can put unneeded stress on it causing it to snap. The manual says torque to 5nm. I'm now loading up the threads with locktite and torquing to only 4nm. I was going to stick with the steel one that I made (that will never break) but I'm a bit of a weight weenie and the steel bolt heavy.

    This episode did make me invest in a torque wrench though. I use to just go by feel. Not anymore....

  159. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by biffhamilton View Post
    Welcome to the party pal!
    ...
    FYI.....That bolt is super soft / light aluminum. I think there is a possibility that if over-torqued it can put unneeded stress on it causing it to snap. The manual says torque to 5nm. I'm now loading up the threads with locktite and torquing to only 4nm. I was going to stick with the steel one that I made (that will never break) but I'm a bit of a weight weenie and the steel bolt heavy.

    This episode did make me invest in a torque wrench though. I use to just go by feel. Not anymore....
    Did yours make the same loud carbon fibre crack noise as when the bolt on my bike broke?

    I was down the bike shop this morning to get a new bolt ordered. The first thing my mate said was that if I'd managed to break that bolt then there must have been plenty of other people who would have broken that bolt on their bike too!

    I just do very (very! ) easy offroad and more road riding than anything on it really. Saying that, due to only having one working leg I can't ride out of the saddle. What bumps there are I end up plowing through seated with zero finesse so the rear suspension gets plenty of use. Pedalling on one leg puts an uneven load through the bike, compared to using both legs, which probably doesn't help either.

    It's a good thing that I can get the custom bolt made on Monday as it looks like the warranty one from Orbea could be a week or so away from arriving. The replacement bolt is probably going to be made of duplex stainless steel. It could be titanium but I'm inclined to have a steel bolt for added peace of mind. The lightest my bike ever was when it came out of the shipping box! Since then I've been progressively making it heavier. Power meter, Ground Control 29x2.3" tyres, XT 4 piston brakes etc.

    This picture shows the broken bolt section in more detail:

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-snapped-shockmount-4.jpg

  160. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Did yours make the same loud carbon fibre crack noise as when the bolt on my bike broke?

    I was down the bike shop this morning to get a new bolt ordered. The first thing my mate said was that if I'd managed to break that bolt then there must have been plenty of other people who would have broken that bolt on their bike too!

    I just do very (very! ) easy offroad and more road riding than anything on it really. Saying that, due to only having one working leg I can't ride out of the saddle. What bumps there are I end up plowing through seated with zero finesse so the rear suspension gets plenty of use. Pedalling on one leg puts an uneven load through the bike, compared to using both legs, which probably doesn't help either.

    It's a good thing that I can get the custom bolt made on Monday as it looks like the warranty one from Orbea could be a week or so away from arriving. The replacement bolt is probably going to be made of duplex stainless steel. It could be titanium but I'm inclined to have a steel bolt for added peace of mind. The lightest my bike ever was when it came out of the shipping box! Since then I've been progressively making it heavier. Power meter, Ground Control 29x2.3" tyres, XT 4 piston brakes etc.

    This picture shows the broken bolt section in more detail:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2020 Orbea Oiz Snapped Shockmount 4.jpg 
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    There must have been a defective run of those bolts.

    My team uses Oiz's and we have an Elite guy who rides really, really hard and we have had no issues with those.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  161. #961
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    I noticed mine had snapped when putting my bike away after a ride. There was a ton of play in my linkage.

  162. #962
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    Sorry, some more questions- I'm getting closer though!!!

    H10's are all sold out, as are M20 TR's.

    So, is this worth doing instead of waiting for the 2021...

    Get an M30, with the upgraded TR bits and dropper.
    Is the carbon that much better? I guess as a base to build off for future and it'll be stiffer etc Main difference is the groupset and cranks are better from what I can see, but you do get XT rear mech and hyperglide+ which is a bonus

    -What tyres come on it? Are there options? Different sites say Ikon or Ardent?

    -If I don't get the squidlock, is there still a lockout function with the dropper too?

    -I don't want to create another mass argument, is squidlock worth £55 if it comes with 2 pos lockout standard anyway?

    If anyone has pictures of Mint green Oizs with tan wall tyres that'd appreciated!

    Ta

    Sam

  163. #963
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    The M30 with TR bits will be great. Weakest link are the brakes, which I would change for sure, but mostly because I don't like Shimano brakes. Other than that only the wheels are not exactly light, but will be perfectly functional and reliable.
    As for the tires the bike probably comes with Ardent (possibly Ardent Race) front and Ikon rear.

  164. #964
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zissou88 View Post
    Sorry, some more questions- I'm getting closer though!!!

    H10's are all sold out, as are M20 TR's.

    So, is this worth doing instead of waiting for the 2021...

    Get an M30, with the upgraded TR bits and dropper.
    Is the carbon that much better? I guess as a base to build off for future and it'll be stiffer etc Main difference is the groupset and cranks are better from what I can see, but you do get XT rear mech and hyperglide+ which is a bonus

    -What tyres come on it? Are there options? Different sites say Ikon or Ardent?

    -If I don't get the squidlock, is there still a lockout function with the dropper too?

    -I don't want to create another mass argument, is squidlock worth £55 if it comes with 2 pos lockout standard anyway?

    If anyone has pictures of Mint green Oizs with tan wall tyres that'd appreciated!

    Ta

    Sam
    I haven't seen any clear information on if there's an all new bike coming soon to replace the current model of the Orbea Oiz. It's something to consider though.

    The mint green / black colour scheme is a gloss finish so should look quite good. I was originally thinking about getting that before eventually going with graphite grey (gloss) / black (matte).

    According to the Orbea website an Orbea Oiz M30 would come with Rear - Maxxis Ikon 2.20" FB 120 TPI 3C Exo TR and Front - Maxxis Ardent 2.2" FB Dual Exo TR tyres fitted. A complete TR 120mm travel version of the Orbea Oiz would come with Maxxis Forekaster 2.35" FB 120 TPI Dual Exo and Maxxis Ardent 2.2" FB Dual Exo TR tyres.

    With the lockout and dropper post there are two versions of the squidlock - one that is just a remote lockout switch and one that is a remote lockout switch but also has an integrated dropper lever. The squidlock with integrated dropper lever would make most sense to spec from new if you're getting a dropper post for a tidy layout. It means all the cabling would be in place in the frame and the squidlock has better ergonomics than the Fox 2 position remote lockout lever I suspect it comes with otherwise.

  165. #965
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    Squidlock and dropper post parts?

    Does anybody happen to have a solid cable stop cover for `19-20 Oiz or squidlock no dropper post lever clamp (both items pictured) that they'd part with for reasonable amount? I'm looking at possibly going no dropper post but would need those 2 items and shipping to United States for few dollar parts was too high. Thanks for checking.New Oiz-screenshot_20200529-100545.jpgNew Oiz-screenshot_20200529-100318.jpg

  166. #966
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstandfest View Post
    Does anybody happen to have a solid cable stop cover for `19-20 Oiz or squidlock no dropper post lever clamp (both items pictured) that they'd part with for reasonable amount? I'm looking at possibly going no dropper post but would need those 2 items and shipping to United States for few dollar parts was too high. Thanks for checking.
    I've found it quite hard to get small spare parts for my Orbea. My experience has been that Specialized bikes are far easier to get small spare parts for!

    With the blanking plate I ended up simply putting electrical tape along the inside of the existing plate to fill the hole when switching over to the SRAM AXS.

    When you see the picture of those three blanking plate sections bear in mind that they aren't symmetrical. The left hand side plate will only take that piece with the long hole in whilst the single hole and blanked off plates are both for the right hand side only.

  167. #967
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    My bike is back up and running again.

    I had the replacement lower shockmount bolt made from duplex hardened stainless steel, rather than titanium in the end. The way it was done was to machine the bolt and then it has a short 7mm socket head on the end for tightening it.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-steel-shockmount-2.jpg

    This 7mm socket head sits flush and doesn't protrude from the swinglink when installed.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-steel-shockmount-1.jpg

    Reassembled with blue loctite threadlocker on the threads it all seems to be ok. There was enough undamaged carbon fibre in the swinglink holes that the bolt appears to be sitting in there supported. There isn't any noticeable freeplay or slop in the rear suspension so it appears to be working normally. I'll give it a try riding tomorrow.

  168. #968
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    Hey guys.

    Thinking about my susp more. The shock doesn't have the open mode compression adjust that the regular DPS has, right? That would be pretty nice if it had it.

    Second thing I was thinking about is the compression setting on the Fox fork. How do you run it? Also do you run it differently for racing and general riding/training?

    Third thing, how much sag (or psi for weight) do you run on the TR model for racing?

    Thanks

  169. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDee81 View Post
    Hey guys.

    Thinking about my susp more. The shock doesn't have the open mode compression adjust that the regular DPS has, right? That would be pretty nice if it had it.

    Second thing I was thinking about is the compression setting on the Fox fork. How do you run it? Also do you run it differently for racing and general riding/training?

    Third thing, how much sag (or psi for weight) do you run on the TR model for racing?

    Thanks
    Every Fit 4 fork I have worked on has had 11 clicks of effective compression adjustment from closed. There are 22 clicks I believe but the last 11 do not do anything. I generally run 8 clicks from closed on a step cast 32. I will adjust it though depending on my fatigue level. If I am fresh and hitting things hard I will gun more compression but as I fatigue I run less.

    My ball park for air-pressure is set your psi to your weight in lbs. I personally run about 10psi more than my weight.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  170. #970
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Pulling your thumb back too far can be a real stretch on the thumb joint and over time riding most days it's possible to end up with a repetitive strain injury from shifting like that over and over again. The integrated ispec EV mounts have some adjustment in so you may be able to rotate your shifter round a little on the mount to reduce that stretch and make it more comfortable.
    Unfortunately I have already used the maximum adjustment, but the shift lever is still positioned in the middle of the proximal phalanx of my thumb. To shift, I have to move the thumb back far and I get joint pain. I have experimented with spacers and a longer screw. A 13 mm spacer (plastic thing that came on the screws of a bottle cage) puts the shifter in a nicer position. There's no form closure, so I can't ride like that. Because of the Covid-19 measures, the local fablab is closed, so I can't go make a proper extender. I hope they will open again in the next week or so!

  171. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN View Post
    Every Fit 4 fork I have worked on has had 11 clicks of effective compression adjustment from closed. There are 22 clicks I believe but the last 11 do not do anything. I generally run 8 clicks from closed on a step cast 32. I will adjust it though depending on my fatigue level. If I am fresh and hitting things hard I will gun more compression but as I fatigue I run less.

    My ball park for air-pressure is set your psi to your weight in lbs. I personally run about 10psi more than my weight.
    Thanks for your input.

    I have 34 SC that came on the 2019 TR, there are 22 compression clicks as you said and from what I can recognize the 0, 1 and 2 clicks from open are the same, but after that you can feel the fork stiffening and not running so smooth over little trail debris, so unlike your experience.

    For the shock it's funny, but I have run it almost exactly as you said. I am 67 kg, which is ~150 lb and I run 160 psi.

    Anyone else racing on the TR caring to share his setup?

  172. #972
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    Depending on what I carry, weight is 170 to 175 lbs. I run 170 psi and want a volume spacer. I just checked the pressure and it was only 160 psi (yes, I accounted for the pressure due to pressurizing the pump). Not sure why, I am certain that I put in 170 psi.

  173. #973
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Thomas View Post
    Unfortunately I have already used the maximum adjustment, but the shift lever is still positioned in the middle of the proximal phalanx of my thumb. To shift, I have to move the thumb back far and I get joint pain. I have experimented with spacers and a longer screw. A 13 mm spacer (plastic thing that came on the screws of a bottle cage) puts the shifter in a nicer position. There's no form closure, so I can't ride like that. Because of the Covid-19 measures, the local fablab is closed, so I can't go make a proper extender. I hope they will open again in the next week or so!
    That's no good. If you're getting pain now it will only continue to get worse unless addressed. Been there done that.

    What you can do temporarily would be to rotate your entire brake levers up round the bars. That will adjust the trigger shift position as well so it's not quite as much of a stretch for your thumb.

    Longer term if you're staying Shimano you could either make a custom spacer or get a band on trigger shifter. The band on trigger shifter isn't integrated, so you're no longer limited on angle, but Shimano XT M8100 appears to have two separate models ispec or band on. Unlike SRAM shifters it doesn't seem to be a case of just buying a band on bracket.

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-...speed-shifter/

    .

  174. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Reassembled with blue loctite threadlocker on the threads it all seems to be ok. There was enough undamaged carbon fibre in the swinglink holes that the bolt appears to be sitting in there supported. There isn't any noticeable freeplay or slop in the rear suspension so it appears to be working normally. I'll give it a try riding tomorrow.
    I took my bike out for a ride yesterday and it seemed to be working ok but at the same time it was ridiculously noisy and creaky. The difficult part was tracking down what was causing all the varied noises.

    For the suspension I'm going to be replacing the upper shockmount bolt as soon as I can. It's made of the same alloy as the lower bolt that snapped was. I had to ride it home with the broken lower bolt, which would have let the shock twist and put strain on the upper bolt so I'm concerned that upper bolt could be damaged. Visually the bolt is missing some of the black anodising but doesn't seem to be cracked.

    I managed to get that rattling loose nut out of the chainstay. The way to get it out is to remove the plastic chainstay protector and there is a larger access hole underneath.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-chainstay-hole.jpg

    The actual nut is a threaded alloy piece, rather than steel, so it isn't magnetic. To get it out I dropped a piece of card in the hole to act as a stop and guide, rolled the loose nut onto it and then carefully turned the frame over so it would fall out of the hole. It sounds easier than it was! Taking the chain off and having someone to help is advisable.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-cable-allen-bolt2.jpg

    I've also replaced the Shimano XTR M9100 chain with a fresh chain and replaced the sintered metallic Shimano brake pads in the XT M8120 brakes with Swisstop Disc 27C organic pads.

    https://www.swissstop.ch/brakepads/d...isc27/organic/

    This picture shows a sintered metallic Shimano pad from the front brake and one of the pads from the rear brake next to one another. These are taken out of the brakes as is.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-brake-pads-glazed.jpg

    It's more obvious seeing the actual pads than in the picture. The front brake pad is highly shiny where the pads have glazed.

    New Oiz-2020-orbea-oiz-brake-pads-glazed-graph.jpg

    The attached graph above is an example of what caused this where I was threshold braking from 58.5 km/h to 10km/h in 7 seconds down to the temporary traffic lights. The problem was every time I'd do this the front brake would lose its feel after a few seconds, going like a block of wood and howling. Sanding down the pads and rebedding them in would sort this, right up until the next time I did a big stop when it would go back to howling again!

    That's not strictly related to the bike creaking but was on my list of things to try and quiet.

  175. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    What type of glue do you use to attach the rubber/plastic chainstay protector? Mine is peeling off so I will have to reattach it soon.

  176. #976
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDee81 View Post
    What type of glue do you use to attach the rubber/plastic chainstay protector? Mine is peeling off so I will have to reattach it soon.
    The plastic chainstay protector is held on by a 1.5mm allen bolt just behind where the rear gear cable hole is and also by the wrap around section of protector that clips onto the chainstay. There's a strip of weak double sided tape running the length of the chainstay protector too.

    To replace this double sided tape you could use something like 3M 9088 Double-Sided High Performance Clear Tape, Size 12mm x 50m :

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-9088-Dou...t-items&sr=1-2

    That thinnest part of chainstay protector behind the chainring is probably going to peel off a little on all these bikes. Mine sits a few mm off the chainstay where it's had mud get underneath there in the past. It's quite a thick bit of plastic though so is unlikely to get any worse than that few mm.

    With the loose nut removed from the chainstay my bike was far quieter today. It had been creating most of the racket from the bike!

    There's still a bit of an intermittent rattle from the brake hose in the down tube and my shoes were creaking a little on the spd pedals but the suspension all seemed fine. I couldn't hear anything that sounded like it was suspension related so that was encouraging.

  177. #977
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    Thanks WR304. Mine is peeling near the allen bolt and there is already more than 2 mm space. It has no effect on protection, but you know. It's unsightly.

  178. #978
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    I used shoe goo. Apply it and hold down with zip ties until dry. Works perfect!

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