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Thread: New Oiz

  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raikzz View Post
    Those who have ridden new Oiz for longer time now, how's the overall reliability and maintenance on those ?

    Do you have any niggles or rattles , had to change some bushings or bearings ?
    I am approaching 2000km on my Oiz. I had to replace the lower eye bushing in the shock at about 1500km. Other than that the frame has been flawless.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  2. #402
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    Water bottles on the seat tube of a Large frame
    Shown shortest to tallest, the last bottle for each is touching the shock so it's a no-go.

    Specialized Carbon Z cage lowest mounting position.
    Note that the Specialized Ribcage mounts at the same level.

    New Oiz-20190706_185519_hdr%7E2.jpg
    New Oiz-20190706_185419_hdr%7E2.jpg
    New Oiz-20190706_190452_hdr%7E2.jpg

    Arundel Other Sideloader Carbon Bottle Cage lowest mounting position.

    New Oiz-20190706_190840%7E2.jpg
    New Oiz-20190706_190911_hdr%7E2.jpg
    New Oiz-20190706_190926_hdr%7E2.jpg
    New Oiz-20190706_190856_hdr%7E2.jpg
    New Oiz-20190706_191010_hdr%7E2.jpg

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarson View Post
    This is somewhat OT to the Oiz but on the topic of MTB power. Iíve had power meters on my road and tri bikes since the original Quarq CinQo back in 2009. I used to do a lot of Iron-distance tris back then and I couldnít imagine doing them without power. Itís just way too easy to overcook the bike and end up losing hours walking in the marathon.


    Iíve never had power on a MTB and havenít stressed doing 100 milers on RPE. I'm sure you still can overcook it to the point that it could ruin your race, but my gut is that there's just more margin for error without having to run after.

    I have power on every bike I ride. On the mtbs, it's useful during MTB specific training, or when I choose to ride the mtb on the road. I've never actually done a steady state TT, so I've never actually used the power data during a race. It's all RPE. But, having the data post-hoc is then super useful.

    I also tend to do shorter races, but can see where pacing strategies with lower IFs (say 0.7-0.8), it would be really helpful to have a meter to tell me when adrenaline is lying to me and trying to goad me into ruining my race.
    Last edited by bikeranzin; 1 Week Ago at 05:06 PM. Reason: Added quotation

  4. #404
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    Hi all, I'm currently eyeing this bike for my primary race rig. I'm 6'3", 33 inseam, 180lbs currently riding an XL Yeti ASRc. I demo'd an XL TR recently and really liked the bike. It felt a little bit faster than my current bike even with GX and Aluminum wheels. I really loved the acceleration, and how well the bike behaved in corners and leaning. I also loved how stiff the rear end felt compared to the ASRc. I felt a lot more confidence hucking into chunky rocks.

    The only downsides I felt were the dropper post/lever position, suspension set up wrong (forgot my shock pump), and the fit. The XL felt a tad too big. I felt it the most up steep switchbacks. I just couldn't get my weight on the front wheel without really getting out of the saddle. I also could never get the seatpost right. The seatpost self slammed itself, but my back told me it still felt too high. I briefly spun around on the L and it felt about the same minus the back pain. I'm looking to do a demo from the LBS before I buy to get the sizing right.

    My current questions are on the sizing and the trim.

    A. I know a lot of tall people liked the XL more. My Yeti feels a bit too big for me, and even with the saddle all the way forward I find myself on the tip. It looks like the reach on the oiz is bigger the the ETT is longer on the yeti. I rode a trek procaliber 19.5" and it fit perfect even though I'm 6'3". Have any other tall people sized down and felt okay? Or should I just try mixing up some components on the XL?

    B. TR vs XC: I race XC competitively. I'm a top 10 CAT 1 in my area. I do a mix of XCO events and marathon events every year. I'm thinking the TR version would be great for some of the more technical/longer races like True Grit and PCP2P, but I've wanted a dedicated race rig for a while just to see if it would help on the climbs. I also have a hard time believing the TR has that much of a difference from the XC version. CAn anyone who has ridden both comment on this?

  5. #405
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    Ksanman, at 186 cm height and 90 cm inseam I had to return the L TR for an XL TR (waiting for it) . I like bigger bikes tough.

    Also remember that if you go for the TR version, reach will be 10 mm shorter and stack 8 mm higher than the XC version.

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksanman View Post
    B. TR vs XC: I race XC competitively. I'm a top 10 CAT 1 in my area. I do a mix of XCO events and marathon events every year. I'm thinking the TR version would be great for some of the more technical/longer races like True Grit and PCP2P, but I've wanted a dedicated race rig for a while just to see if it would help on the climbs. I also have a hard time believing the TR has that much of a difference from the XC version. CAn anyone who has ridden both comment on this?
    I would buy the XC version and put a 120 SC fork on it if you are racing. At your height I would also get an XL.

    No need for the 120 in the rear especially if this is your race bike.
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  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raikzz View Post
    Those who have ridden new Oiz for longer time now, how's the overall reliability and maintenance on those ?

    Do you have any niggles or rattles , had to change some bushings or bearings ?
    I had almost 2400 miles on mine when the seat tube cracked. It did not fail completely but it definitely had to be replaced. I was hesitant to post this because I know how the internet can make mountains of molehills, but in the end, decided on transparency. I do not think this is indicative of any common issue but these things simply happen sometimes. Which is one reason I go with Orbea, they always have taken care of me and fully expect they will for this issue.
    Still enjoy the bike, although I do not think the "geometry" of the TR version was a good choice for me. I am looking into options to remedy that. No complaints and a great bike otherwise.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagster View Post
    ...seat tube cracked...
    I also don't want to make this bigger than it is but I'm curios where it cracked. At the top, down lower someplace?

    Quote Originally Posted by shagster View Post
    ...I do not think the "geometry" of the TR version was a good choice for me....
    Can you elaborate further here? I tested the TR but bought an XC and I feel like they are two distinct bikes. The XC version feels a lot more to my liking, but I think that is mainly because it doesn't feel all that different than my old bike, other than having a 20mm lower handlebar hight.

    Thanks

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyperSprite View Post
    Can you elaborate further here? I tested the TR but bought an XC and I feel like they are two distinct bikes. The XC version feels a lot more to my liking, but I think that is mainly because it doesn't feel all that different than my old bike, other than having a 20mm lower handlebar hight.
    +100

    This was my thinking exactly.

    The TR felt vague to me in a way that the XC didn't. Fortunately, the two bikes are only 2 components away from each other. I'm still hoping that Orbea decides to sell the shock aftermarket. I might be willing to get the shock and a 34 sc to go play in bumpier places. What bike were you coming off of, out of curiosity? For me, the Oiz replaced my ASR.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeranzin View Post
    What bike were you coming off of, out of curiosity?
    2014 Jet 9 RDO

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyperSprite View Post
    I also don't want to make this bigger than it is but I'm curios where it cracked. At the top, down lower someplace?


    Can you elaborate further here? I tested the TR but bought an XC and I feel like they are two distinct bikes. The XC version feels a lot more to my liking, but I think that is mainly because it doesn't feel all that different than my old bike, other than having a 20mm lower handlebar hight.

    Thanks
    It cracked near the pivot point for the linkage, just above where it goes thru the tube. In my opinion, the TR handling is too unresponsive for my taste. I'm sure that is because I came from 10+ years of hardtail, race XC bikes only. I intend to lower the 34 SC to 110 first. And if I'm not happy from there, I will go down to 100 on the fork and look into the options to lower the rear properly. To me this is simply personal preference and nothing to do with any flaw of the bike. I ride flat land mostly so I can get away with less slack of a ride and actually enjoy the more aggressive style on the daily. For the occasional trip to the "highlands", I think the TR will be so much more fun and hopefully I can convert pretty easy when I need to.

  12. #412
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    Be careful not to remove screw #4 when you need to take the chain off the chainring, just loosen it, push it up, and work the chain out carefully.

    The little nut on the back side will fall off and with the chainring in the way, I could not figure out a way to get it back in there without removing #2.

    But then the spacer fell out, yes, only one spacer (washer) even though I have SRAM. I was able to use a magnet to hold the spacer (washer) in position while I put it back together but it was not fun.

    New Oiz-screen-shot-2019-07-09-8.47.39-am.png

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagster View Post
    I intend to lower the 34 SC to 110 first. And if I'm not happy from there, I will go down to 100 on the fork and look into the options to lower the rear properly.
    Zerort seemed to have good things to say about the Manitou McLeod for a rear shock on the 'XC' version. Going off their whole '1 bike, 2 different stroke lengths' things I've thought about swapping a SC32 and a McLeod on for non-technical races like LT100 but leaving it in the TR config for the other 99% of my riding/training in CO. I probably won't actually do that, but I liked that it was an option since I personally can't justify having a separate dedicated short travel XC race bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by HyperSprite View Post
    Be careful not to remove screw #4 when you need to take the chain off the chainring, just loosen it, push it up, and work the chain out carefully.
    Why are you removing the chain guide to take your chain off? Why not just use the quick link?

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarson View Post
    Going off their whole '1 bike, 2 different stroke lengths' things I've thought about swapping a SC32 and a McLeod on for non-technical races like LT100 but leaving it in the TR config for the other 99% of my riding/training in CO. I probably won't actually do that, but I liked that it was an option since I personally can't justify having a separate dedicated short travel XC race bike.
    FWIW, I actually really enjoy riding my 100mm bike around CO. I'm perhaps a bit under-gunned on Longhorn and Bitterbrush (descent), but that's part of the fun I suppose 120mm would be nice to smooth out the sheer bumpiness of places like CB though.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarson View Post
    Why are you removing the chain guide to take your chain off? Why not just use the quick link?
    I didn't need to take the chain off the bike, just needed it out of the way to loosen the the 8mm crank bolt.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyperSprite View Post
    Be careful not to remove screw #4 when you need to take the chain off the chainring, just loosen it, push it up, and work the chain out carefully.

    The little nut on the back side will fall off and with the chainring in the way, I could not figure out a way to get it back in there without removing #2.

    But then the spacer fell out, yes, only one spacer (washer) even though I have SRAM. I was able to use a magnet to hold the spacer (washer) in position while I put it back together but it was not fun.
    I ran into this problem when I broke a chain. It almost destroyed the chain guide when it happened. In the process it bent the bolt #4 so I had no choice but to remove it.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarson View Post
    Zerort seemed to have good things to say about the Manitou McLeod for a rear shock on the 'XC' version. Going off their whole '1 bike, 2 different stroke lengths' things I've thought about swapping a SC32 and a McLeod on for non-technical races like LT100 but leaving it in the TR config for the other 99% of my riding/training in CO. I probably won't actually do that, but I liked that it was an option since I personally can't justify having a separate dedicated short travel XC race bike.


    Thanks, I will look into it! My thought is that I will try the 110 fork sleeve first and see if the Geo isn't too bad. If that doesn't work, I will throw in the 110 sleeve and try the shorter stroke shock. I do not know any other options for the rear at this time.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagster View Post
    I do not know any other options for the rear at this time.
    Since the 100mm and 120mm share the same eye to eye length but different stoke by 5mm, isn't that 20mm of travel coming at the end of the stoke, and couldn't you just run the rear shock at 15% sag instead of 25% to get a similar experience to the 100mm bike?
    You'd still have 120mm of travel but you'd have to hit it hard enough to use that extra 5mm of stroke to notice.
    I'm just throwing this out there, I don't have any experience tuning the TR.

  19. #419
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    I am a bit out of my knowledge area and therefore a bit confused. The blue papers for both the XC and TR are the same. So they reflect the same exact linkages an associated part numbers. So if the only difference in the rear suspension is that one shock has 5mm longer stroke, I'm not sure how that affects geometry. It only implies to me that the shock absorbs 5mm more compression. Wouldn't that also mean that if the linkages are exactly the same, the TR only has 5mm more travel in the rear? Well, not necessarily 5mm more travel exactly as it has to do with the pivot angle of the rear, etc.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagster View Post
    I am a bit out of my knowledge area and therefore a bit confused. The blue papers for both the XC and TR are the same. So they reflect the same exact linkages an associated part numbers. So if the only difference in the rear suspension is that one shock has 5mm longer stroke, I'm not sure how that affects geometry. It only implies to me that the shock absorbs 5mm more compression. Wouldn't that also mean that if the linkages are exactly the same, the TR only has 5mm more travel in the rear? Well, not necessarily 5mm more travel exactly as it has to do with the pivot angle of the rear, etc.
    After thinking about this a bit more... I guess all things being equal except the 5mm longer stroke. That 5mm can translate to 20mm more travel due to the way the rear travel works as a lever. So, the rear height between the XC and TR would probably be very identical even with different shock strokes.

  21. #421
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    XC - 40mm * 20 = 100mm travel
    TR - 45mm * 20 = 120mm travel

    The bb hight for the two models would be different based on the +20mm on the front end. What I don't know is if there is any valving or volume difference between the two "custom tune" shocks.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagster View Post
    After thinking about this a bit more... I guess all things being equal except the 5mm longer stroke. That 5mm can translate to 20mm more travel due to the way the rear travel works as a lever. So, the rear height between the XC and TR would probably be very identical even with different shock strokes.
    The eye to eye is the same. So the geometry is the same.

    Your assumption is correct.

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  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    The eye to eye is the same. So the geometry is the same.

    Your assumption is correct.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    The move to a 120 mm fork brings the front end up, the BB higher, and makes the head angle slacker.

    The rear shock does nothing to change the geometry.

    I've been playing with this bike in regards to setup (probably more than anyone in this thread) and I can tell you that with a Fox 34 SC, this bike is much better. You will not lose anything in regards to handling or speed with this larger fork.

    I've even changed to a 51mm offset after trying both, and prefer the 51 over the 44.

    McLeod is available in a 190 x 45 as well if you want more rear travel, but I have not bottomed out my 190 x 40 yet, and have felt no need for more travel on my XC trails.

    If you ride more "trail" type conditions, you may want to use the extra travel.
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  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    The move to a 120 mm fork brings the front end up, the BB higher, and makes the head angle slacker.

    The rear shock does nothing to change the geometry.

    I've been playing with this bike in regards to setup (probably more than anyone in this thread) and I can tell you that with a Fox 34 SC, this bike is much better. You will not lose anything in regards to handling or speed with this larger fork.

    I've even changed to a 51mm offset after trying both, and prefer the 51 over the 44.

    McLeod is available in a 190 x 45 as well if you want more rear travel, but I have not bottomed out my 190 x 40 yet, and have felt no need for more travel on my XC trails.

    If you ride more "trail" type conditions, you may want to use the extra travel.
    I never mentioned anything about the fork. Of course a 20mm increase in fork a2c will increase the BB height, and slacken the head and seat angle, and decrease the reach.

    The point is, if you have the 100mm or 120mm config, the shocks eye to eye is identical, so it does nothing *on its own* to the geometry. Suspension dynamics, yes, but static geometry no.

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  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyperSprite View Post
    What I don't know is if there is any valving or volume difference between the two "custom tune" shocks.
    The TR shock has 45 mm stroke and linear compression and rebound valving.
    The XC shock has 40 mm stroke and digressive compression and rebound valving.
    Oh and I believe that the TR shock has no spacer, while the XC shock has the smallest spacer (0.2 is it?).

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDee81 View Post
    The TR shock has 45 mm stroke and linear compression and rebound valving.
    The XC shock has 40 mm stroke and digressive compression and rebound valving.
    Oh and I believe that the TR shock has no spacer, while the XC shock has the smallest spacer (0.2 is it?).
    Yeah, agreed. I think the TR shock could actually do with a spacer as stock, as it's pretty linear. It does feel better at around 20% sag, but I think it would be better with 25-30 sag, and a bit more ramp up.

    I've got a load of fox volume chips, so may give it a go at some point.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  27. #427
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    My experience is quite the opposite. I didn't yet manage to bottom the TR out and I run 25 % sag. The bike is definitely progressive enough on it's own.

  28. #428
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    The new 2020s look interesting. I think they have a hit with the three tier, different models in each tier approach they took.

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  29. #429
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    That new model is almost my ideal bike, new SLX/XT groupset, with proper suspension and an option to buy nice carbon wheels.
    Ideally i would have kashima suspension there also, and this lower model doesn't have Orbea's new 3-position lockout lever in standard

  30. #430
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    Just ordered an M10 TR, should be here next week.

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  31. #431
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    Anyone else ordered the new Squidlock for their Oiz? I ordered mine the day it was released, with the extra dropper lever.

    Hopefully it works with the Fox 34sc and the Fox DPS. The email suggested it works. If it just adjusts a poppet valve, then I'm assuming it'll just be open, half open, and closed.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Anyone else ordered the new Squidlock for their Oiz? I ordered mine the day it was released, with the extra dropper lever.

    Hopefully it works with the Fox 34sc and the Fox DPS. The email suggested it works. If it just adjusts a poppet valve, then I'm assuming it'll just be open, half open, and closed.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    Can't decide on with or w/o the dropper lever but will order soon. Assume you ordered from LBS, as at least on my browser couldn't add to cart. Was told by Orbea they won't be here for probably a month or so.
    Ď19 orbea oiz tr
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  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    Can't decide on with or w/o the dropper lever but will order soon. Assume you ordered from LBS, as at least on my browser couldn't add to cart. Was told by Orbea they won't be here for probably a month or so.
    It works on Internet Explorer. But not Chrome. The button is there to pay on IE.

    I bought online

    With the dropper remote, as I don't like the one my TR came with

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    Anyone else ordered the new Squidlock for their Oiz? I ordered mine the day it was released, with the extra dropper lever.

    Hopefully it works with the Fox 34sc and the Fox DPS. The email suggested it works. If it just adjusts a poppet valve, then I'm assuming it'll just be open, half open, and closed.
    If you don't mind posting up how it goes and functions, we'd appreciate it.

    I'm ordering the 100mm version that doesn't come with dropper version, but will be adding a dropper so will need to order the Squidlock dropper version separate and add it on. I'm hoping I can just swap out the top clamp with the dropper lever, as they look interchangeable.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerpoise View Post
    It works on Internet Explorer. But not Chrome. The button is there to pay on IE.

    I bought online

    With the dropper remote, as I don't like the one my TR came with

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    I tried use Microsoft Edge and the box didn't work. But with IE, it did indeed allow it. Now I need to decide which I want.....

    Thanks for the tip!

    Mark
    Ď19 orbea oiz tr
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  36. #436
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    Iím bummed I got a Ď19 instead of a Ď20 but Iím glad Squidlock is fully backwards compatible for the Ď19. Sucks I have to spend an extra $140 but oh well. The wheels are a nice upgrade as well but I donít care so much about XT vs X01. Iíd be happy to give the new XT a try but I donít view that as an upgrade over SRAM, more that Shimano has caught up.

    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerjt07 View Post
    Just ordered an M10 TR, should be here next week.
    For your sake hopefully that's true. In my experience my bike shipped 2 weeks after Orbea's promised availability date and it took another week to arrive.
    Last edited by tgarson; 1 Day Ago at 12:39 PM.

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