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  1. #401
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    Progress on FJ40 Motor

    This has been my Spring/Summer wrenching project. I could've been done by now, if my son wasn't so damn busy. It's for his '70 FJ and he wants to be a part of it, so I'm at the mercy of his schedule. Hopefully, I can get the head on, the lifters in and the valvetrain installed this weekend. THEN... the swap.

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    I love the finish hone on this thing.

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  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    When they get old they can open too soon too, not by a lot, but my Jetta was running 10* cooler than it should, new thermostat fixed it.
    True but heís talking about the truck running lean. That has nothing to do with a thermostat. It has to do with an air leak in the intake system. His mechanic said his thermostat may be causing a running too lean idiot light to come on. Iíve never heard of a thermostat being the culprit for a lean running motor.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  3. #403
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    OK, how about this; should a thermostat be replaced after 200K+, even if it still works? I'm willing to replace it even if it's not the problem.

    I've got pics of belts and error codes coming, stay tuned!
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  4. #404
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    Well, Iíve never known of a thermostat benging a maintenance replacement thing. Only when they go bad are they replaced. But youíve already got it and are willing to go through that, I guess go for it. It canít hurt to have a new thermostat. But be forewarned many new thermostats are bad right from the manufacturer. Boil some water and test it before you put it in. Otherwise you go through all that and button it back up only to find out the new one you put in is bad.

    Get a pan of water and put the thermostat in.

    Get a thermometer to measure at what degree it opens if it does at all.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    This has been my Spring/Summer wrenching project. I could've been done by now, if my son wasn't so damn busy. It's for his '70 FJ and he wants to be a part of it, so I'm at the mercy of his schedule. Hopefully, I can get the head on, the lifters in and the valvetrain installed this weekend. THEN... the swap.

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    I love the finish hone on this thing.

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    Cool! I don't know why but I've always dug inline motors...just more aesthetically pleasing and simplified. A ways back my buddy had an 80's M6 that he pulled the engine and proceeded to rebuild over a year or more. Always enjoyed stopping over and checking out his progress.
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  6. #406
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    I watched a video on heating up a thermostat. It should open at 180 degrees. I don't have one yet, and now I'm thinking I should start with what I have, and that's an O2 sensor and an A/F sensor. These codes are telling me that's what it is.



    And for the belts; they were replaced in 2014 when I had the timing belt/water pump done. From what I've read, the belts shouldn't be able to be turned more than 90 degrees, or deflect 1/2", so maybe the AC belt is ok and the power steering and alternator belts need tension?

    AC belt


    Power steering belt


    Alternator belt (note the small tear in the side, probably ok?)
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  7. #407
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    Korn, my last post I had just mowed the lawn and was sweating and overheating and in a hurry. Out of the shower now but still in a hurry. I thought about it. What you describe is something in the intake system leaking air. I would ponder a guess at a cracked intake manifold. Before doing a thermostat replacement which I feel is unrelated and uneccasary. Go have a mechanic do a pressurized vacuum test on your intake system. They can pinpoint where thereís an air leak.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  8. #408
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    Corn,

    Ask for a smoke test. Or, you can actually buy a can of smoke and check for yourself.

    My youngest sons E46 kept setting codes; first, "O2 bank one", then, "O2 bank two". I knew it had to be something common to both banks on a split exhaust system. The smoke test revealed a split down low on the intake boot behind the mass airflow sensor. The boot cost me $11 but took about 45 minutes to replace on that thing. Never set another code.
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  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Cool! I don't know why but I've always dug inline motors...just more aesthetically pleasing and simplified. A ways back my buddy had an 80's M6 that he pulled the engine and proceeded to rebuild over a year or more. Always enjoyed stopping over and checking out his progress.
    This is a small bore, long stroke 6, so it's got great torque and a very low redline RPM (like 4000). It's not at all smooth like the Bimmer (which I love), but it's a great motor.

    The origin of the Toyota F motor has it's roots in a 1939 Chevy design. GREAT motor for sure!
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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Well, Iíve never known of a thermostat benging a maintenance replacement thing. Only when they go bad are they replaced. But youíve already got it and are willing to go through that, I guess go for it. It canít hurt to have a new thermostat. But be forewarned many new thermostats are bad right from the manufacturer. Boil some water and test it before you put it in. Otherwise you go through all that and button it back up only to find out the new one you put in is bad.

    Get a pan of water and put the thermostat in.

    Get a thermometer to measure at what degree it opens if it does at all.
    Yep, I had a Scirocco that was overheating. Replaced the thermostat and it didn't fix it. Me and my dad did all kinds of wire tracing looking for the problem. Ended up the replacement thermostat was bad as well. Unfortunately, by then the overheating had cracked the plastic radiator. Good news was, the crack would close when the radiator cooled down, it only leaked when it was hot. That's when the temperature gauge was handy.
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  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    I watched a video on heating up a thermostat. It should open at 180 degrees. I don't have one yet, and now I'm thinking I should start with what I have, and that's an O2 sensor and an A/F sensor. These codes are telling me that's what it is.
    Aren't an O2 sensor and an A/F sensor the same thing?

    I had to replace an O2 in my Forester.
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  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    Corn,

    Ask for a smoke test. Or, you can actually buy a can of smoke and check for yourself.

    My youngest sons E46 kept setting codes; first, "O2 bank one", then, "O2 bank two". I knew it had to be something common to both banks on a split exhaust system. The smoke test revealed a split down low on the intake boot behind the mass airflow sensor. The boot cost me $11 but took about 45 minutes to replace on that thing. Never set another code.
    Pretty much what I recommended with a pressure test, a smoke test giving the same results, the smoke in a can thing being the cheapest route. The pressure test is more accurate being under pressure and picking up a minuscule air leak where a smoke test may not pick up. I mentioned a cracked intake manifold being a high possibility which is what you found with your sons vehicle. Now I think we are in the same page here. Korn abort the thermostat replacement for now and get one of the tests mentioned above before anything else. Youíll save yourself some headaches. These tests will pinpoint where there is an air leak so you can move forward in fixing it.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Yep, I had a Scirocco that was overheating. Replaced the thermostat and it didn't fix it. Me and my dad did all kinds of wire tracing looking for the problem. Ended up the replacement thermostat was bad as well. Unfortunately, by then the overheating had cracked the plastic radiator. Good news was, the crack would close when the radiator cooled down, it only leaked when it was hot. That's when the temperature gauge was handy.
    Yep, been there done that. Which was a learning experience in testing the new thermostat in boiling water with a thermometer to check if it opens up at the correct degrees or even at all. Saves a lot of extra pain of swapping it out only to find out the new thermostat was bad to begin with.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  14. #414
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    Thanks guys, I'll look into that, maybe i can do it myself with a big bong rip.

    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Aren't an O2 sensor and an A/F sensor the same thing?

    I had to replace an O2 in my Forester.
    Kinda sorta. On the Denso part finder when you click on A/F sensor it automatically checks off the O2 sensor as well. They work as a pair measuring the amount of air before and after the cats.
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  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Aren't an O2 sensor and an A/F sensor the same thing?

    I had to replace an O2 in my Forester.
    Yes and no. The primary O2 sensor is more for a/f, the secondary is just to monitor your cats.

    If your cat goes bad and you have a standard threaded type sensor just get a 18x1.5mm sparkplug anti fouler. Put that on the sensor and ta da no more P0420. Works on most cars. some sensors don't fit unless you drill out the anti fouler (Nissan). But I never said that. Check your local laws and regulations first.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Thanks guys, I'll look into that, maybe i can do it myself with a big bong rip.
    Pretty sure that's how they do it at my garage.
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  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Thanks guys, I'll look into that, maybe i can do it myself with a big bong rip.
    Iíve got a bad feeling about this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  18. #418
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    After a bit more reading I went ahead and tightened the alternator belt to 1/4"-1/2" deflection. It was the easiest to get to and seemed the loosest. No squeal upon startup, which it had been doing lately, so that's a good sign. Now I'll go drive and see if that fixed it.
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  19. #419
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    Nothing was worse than a kid towing his car into the shop who tried it themselves not knowing what to do. Then you have the box of nuts, bolts, and parts they took off and a bag of parts they broke. But my favorite was "here is my car. The engine is in the trunk".

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    Nothing was worse than a kid towing his car into the shop who tried it themselves not knowing what to do. Then you have the box of nuts, bolts, and parts they took off and a bag of parts they broke. But my favorite was "here is my car. The engine is in the trunk".
    I feel the same way when I have to fix homeowner repairs, you should see some of the stuff they do! I'm so not trying to be that kid.

    I feel like I am learning quite a bit, as I have done with other things, by going slow and quadruple checking everything as I go along. I think you either have it or you don't, and with my background in construction I think I've got just enough of it. And I can build bike wheels!

    No squeals on my test drive!!!
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  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    Nothing was worse than a kid towing his car into the shop who tried it themselves not knowing what to do. Then you have the box of nuts, bolts, and parts they took off and a bag of parts they broke. But my favorite was "here is my car. The engine is in the trunk".
    Similar story here with something in the trunk:

    When I was 17 and already on my 3rd car. I wanted it to be race worthy having seen one similar around town for a few years. I bought a 1975 Dodge Colt in near perfect condition from a relative. Fun car with a peppy 4 cylinder. There was another Dodge Colt in town that was somewhat hopped up but was sold and was just sitting for a year or so. The previous owner was a friend who did a few things to it and gave me the inside scoop of its location. Knowing it was a 1974 with higher compression head no smog pump and a header already a better platform to start with, I went and pestered the guy to sell it. After a couple of months and several visits he finally gave in and sold it to me. I had previously purchased a race cam and I and a buddy pulled the motor from the 1974 using another friends dads backhoe as a cherry picker. We pulled and dropped the motor in his gigantic Oldsmobile trunk. We then drove my 1975 Colt into my mechanic followed by my 1974 Colt motor in his trunk. Pulled into my mechanic and told him I wanted the 1974 motor from the trunk fully rebuilt, balanced and blueprinted, bored .30 over ported and polished with the head worked. Use the 4 into 1 Hooker header that was already on the 1974 motor, and install the race cam. Pull the 1975 motor to be returned back to me. I later sold that motor to and old guy wanting it for his dune buggy.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  22. #422
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    made the journey safely from my house to the shop. 38 miles at 40mph Was a little shaky at first but once we got moving to smoothed out. Now I really can start getting some work done on the ford.
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  23. #423
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    That is a cool old Ford. Iím guessing itís a 1978.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  24. #424
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    Close. 74 actually. It's a highboy so it tall from the factory to fit the longer driveshafts from the divorced transfer case. Those are 42" tires on there. Gonna be a never ending project

  25. #425
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    That thing is burly!

    What are you going to do with the paint? I think it looks cool how it is in the top pic, bottom pic looks like some faded camo.
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  26. #426
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    The passenger and driver side are different. It sat for 12 years out in the desert the driver's side was exposed to the sun, the passenger side was up against a box truck. The hood is red white and blue striped. There is probably 15 layers of paint on it, the original color is metallic green.

    I'm thinking if and when I strip it, I will probably do OD green. It does run and drive but currently it has no front brakes or parking brake. Once we're done beefing up the new front axle it will be ready to drive.

  27. #427
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    Ok, now it is my turn. This actually happened last Saturday but just now getting around to posting.

    Went for a ride and when I got home, I stopped outside my basement garage, left my '06 Forester (non-turbo) running while I opened the garage door, got my bike out and rolled it into the garage. When I got back in the car, it was acting really odd, lots of warning lights flashing and the radio had cut out. I can't remember just how it was running, rough I believe, maybe kind of surging back and forth.

    I immediately put it in gear and pulled it in and turned it off. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't turn over, tried to but couldn't. After a few attempts, the battery started acting weak.

    Later checked a few things. With the ignition on, lights seems to be ok. But odd thing was, with the radio on, it would be fine with the parking lights (or whatever the first position of the lights is, seems like the parking lights is a separate switch) but when lights turned to full on, the radio would quit playing and the radio display would go out. I tried googling that but couldn't find anything, I'm thinking it probably isn't anything too significant, but seems odd.

    Figured I'd go ahead and clean the battery terminals and be sure the cables were tight. As I thought, didn't help. Broke out the multimeter and got really confused. On the 10 scale, it pinned far right. On the 50 scale, it pinned far right. On the 250 scale, I got the below reading. I know a battery should read higher than 12v DC but this doesn't seem right.

    Wrenching on cars.-car_battery.jpg

    But despite this, I'm thinking maybe it's the fuel pump?


    Next part is, being an all-wheel drive Subaru, they warn not to tow it with any wheels on the ground, must be on a flatbed. But could I put it in neutral (it's an automatic) and pull it with another car? I have a mechanic two miles up the road and it is a pretty flat drive. I could pull it with either my wife's '15 Forester or our '03 I35 (I checked, it has a hook in back). I'm leaning toward the I35 as my wife may not be happy with me using her car for this.
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  28. #428
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    Might be a grounding problem. did it throw any CELs?

    as far as the flat tow it about the differentials, most specifically the center diff in the transmission. for a few miles at regular road speeds I would not worry too much, just don't go too fast. They just don;t want you to put it on a 2 wheel lift tow. all 4 tires must be moving together. We had a customer that had his wrx towed with a car dolly. the center diff cooked, got so hot it caught fire and burned the car down.
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  29. #429
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    Grounding or lead problem?
    Short?
    Battery failed?
    Guesses toward the outcome. Being parked in your garage I'd most likely disconnect the battery just to be extra safe.
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  30. #430
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    FJ40 6 Cyl Progress

    I got the head on and torqued and the valvetrain assembled. Now, I need to get the engine onto a cradle and put the flywheel on so that I can set the valves.

    Wrenching on cars.-img_4359.jpg

    Gettin close.
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  31. #431
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  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post

    Next part is, being an all-wheel drive Subaru, they warn not to tow it with any wheels on the ground, must be on a flatbed. But could I put it in neutral (it's an automatic) and pull it with another car? I have a mechanic two miles up the road and it is a pretty flat drive. I could pull it with either my wife's '15 Forester or our '03 I35 (I checked, it has a hook in back). I'm leaning toward the I35 as my wife may not be happy with me using her car for this.
    I am not sure about Subaru automatic transmissions, but many automatic transmissions will burn up if you tow them (neutral or not) as the fluid pump is run off the engine and it does not spin when towed. It get that it is only 2 miles, but signing up for AAA may be your best bet so that you can get it towed.

    BTW, something seems wonky with your multi meter. I am not sure why it shows 20v on the 250v scale but would peg the meter on the 50v scale. If working properly it should show 20v on either scale.

    Try the lights and radio with the ignition in the accessory position vs "on". If you still have issues then it is not the fuel pump as it should not turn on until the ignition is on.


    Can the motor be turned over by hand?

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    Might be a grounding problem. did it throw any CELs?

    as far as the flat tow it about the differentials, most specifically the center diff in the transmission. for a few miles at regular road speeds I would not worry too much, just don't go too fast. They just don;t want you to put it on a 2 wheel lift tow. all 4 tires must be moving together. We had a customer that had his wrx towed with a car dolly. the center diff cooked, got so hot it caught fire and burned the car down.
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    I am not sure about Subaru automatic transmissions, but many automatic transmissions will burn up if you tow them (neutral or not) as the fluid pump is run off the engine and it does not spin when towed. It get that it is only 2 miles, but signing up for AAA may be your best bet so that you can get it towed.

    BTW, something seems wonky with your multi meter. I am not sure why it shows 20v on the 250v scale but would peg the meter on the 50v scale. If working properly it should show 20v on either scale.

    Try the lights and radio with the ignition in the accessory position vs "on". If you still have issues then it is not the fuel pump as it should not turn on until the ignition is on.


    Can the motor be turned over by hand?
    Oops, somehow didn't see BlueCheesehead's reply until just now. Forester is now up the road at the shop, which is closed until Monday. Hopefully no damage done.

    Here's another clue I came across, when in reverse or drive, it was making an electronic sound under the hood; when in park or neutral, it wasn't. I tried to make a quick listen to locate but I was afraid something would get burned out. Fuel pump?

    Yeah, not sure what is up with that meter. As you can probably tell, it is very old and I haven't used it in a long while. Maybe the selected knob isn't aligned correctly with the shaft? It is a little off from the numbers. And I thought a battery would measure more like 14v.
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  34. #434
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    Looking good Chuck. As for Chaz's strange scenario it sounds like the possibilities have been covered already.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  35. #435
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    Finally for the first time in about 10 years the Mustang is back on the road with new heads, 7 qt oil pan and a little cleaning up. Still to go are the ceramic coated headers and stainless exhaust. It's a fun driver.

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  36. #436
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    Fuel pump on a Forester is under the back seat in the tank noise under the hood dunno.

    Pretty engine. I think I'm going to get my engine bay on my truck nice and clean but leave the outside the way it is

  37. #437
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    Sometimes when wrenching on cars, it's necessary to get back to the basics, ya know? It's easy to get caught up in what could be complex problems, but the basics still prevail. An ICE needs fuel, air and spark (at the right time). Take one of these away and you're standing on the side of the road. I sometimes lose sight of this and have to reset my brain back to the basics.

    The other night, I had a coil fail on my '67 GTO. Nope! I just had a loose/dirty connection at the firewall terminal block. I guess a 52 year-old car needs to have it's connections checked once in awhile.
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    exactly. old cars baffle some people's minds. I have a distributor, carburetor, and electric fuel pump. I still have my mechanical pump on the engine as a back up. The truck has 6 fuses and 7 wires on the entire engine harness.

    If you have a modern car that won't start and no CEL you're pretty much screwed. worse is an OBD1 car. time to get a paperclip, jump the contacts and count the engine light flashes.
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  39. #439
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    Ended up being a bad alternator and battery on my Forester, mechanic seemed to think the battery damaged the alternator. Naturally, the battery was out of full replacement as of April (3 years) but I got it prorated.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  40. #440
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    Here was a fun one... I apologize in advance for the long story.

    A couple of years ago, a buddy of mine and another friend swapped in a '94 LT1 from a Caprice (cop car) into his '87 Monte Carlo SS. They rebuilt the motor while they had it out, just to freshen it up. Once the swap was complete and the FI system was wired in, it was time to fire it off. Fuel? Check!, Ignition? Check!, Timing (optispark)? Check! ...Nothing! They verified everything numerous times. Nothing! My buddy called me and asked my opinion all the while telling me how he had pinned out the replacement ECM and verified everything. How he had verified Spark, fuel, timing, etc. For weeks he would call me at the end of fiddling with it. Still nothing.

    Somewhere around two months into the project, they were pulling their hair out, so asked if I could come over after work to have a look at it. I told them I would.

    When I pulled into the driveway in my Suburban (think, vantage point), the garage door was open and the Monte was backed into the garage with the hood off. I noticed that the valve covers were still off from the latest valve adjustment attempt.

    I got out of my truck and told Ethan (the owner), "I think I know why it won't start". He goes, "Bullshit. There's no way you can pull into my driveway and tell me that." I said, "maybe not, but I'm pretty sure your valves are set too tight." Again, "Bullshit", he said. So I told him, "I have worked on hundreds of small block Chevys and I can tell you that I should see about four threads above the rocker nuts and I see around ten on top of yours." "Let me run through the adjustment again."

    I showed him how to determine zero lash and set the valves. When I was done, I told him to put the valve covers back on so we didn't splash oil everywhere when it starts. He was positive it wasn't going to start after I had being there only ten minutes.

    He put the key in the ignition, turned it. It fired right off and ran perfect. His wife came running out of the house and asked, "Can I hug you?" I swear they were both damn near in tears. She had already been lobbying him to ditch the project, but he had owned the car since high school and wasn't willing to get rid of it. It had become somewhat of a point of contention between them. This was a win-win-win.

    Sometimes experience still counts.
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  41. #441
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    Nice!
    Most of the time experience counts.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  42. #442
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    I think I fixed my truck! I've only driven about 5 miles, but the CEL hasn't come back on, we'll see what happens tomorrow.

    After pondering for some time, I decided there wasn't any good reason why I shouldn't change out the pre-cat A/F sensor, so I got after it! The first nut came off fairly easily, but I did notice the socket wasn't seated very well. Moved on to the second one, which is a bit harder to see, and couldn't get the socket to grab at all! Upon closer inspection I realized it was rounded over, damn, I'm screwed! A few minutes later I grabbed a small Vice-Grip (which I bought at an estate sale a week ago, it was a vintage gift set of a big and little one) and was able to get it to turn, YES!!! It only took another couple dozen 1/8th turns before I was able to get the nut off.

    I'm thinking one of the previous owners attempted to replace the sensor and just gave up after rounding the nut, not sure if a shop would have done that. The dealer I bought the truck from probably cleared the codes before they put it on the lot.

    I went over to Autozone and tried their threaded display and the nut didn't fit any of the threads perfectly, but it moves pretty easily on the stud. I think it best matched the M8 threads. Does anyone know where to find out what size threading it is? I was going to go down to the dealer and get a nut, but I'm thinking it should be a fairly standard size that I can get at the hardware store around the corner.



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  43. #443
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    most Tacoma O2 sensor nuts are 8mm x 1.25.
    Thanks Internet!
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  44. #444
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    Was just going to say... 8mm x 1.25 pitch.

    My ACE Hardware has a great selection of metric nuts and bolts. Those nuts look like lock nuts. Buy regular 8mm and use a split lock washer instead.
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  45. #445
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    Anyone here know where my 10mm socket is?

  46. #446
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    I've been going to Menard's for hardware, not sure if there are any in CA. I'll get a couple stainless nuts and lock washers.

    There was a buildup of rust and junk under the gasket on the stripped nut side, so I think that nut had been loosened before it got rounded over, and then just left, perhaps that could have been an air leak in addition to a bad sensor.
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  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by AVL-MTB View Post
    Anyone here know where my 10mm socket is?
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  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    I've been going to Menard's for hardware, not sure if there are any in CA. I'll get a couple stainless nuts and lock washers.

    There was a buildup of rust and junk under the gasket on the stripped nut side, so I think that nut had been loosened before it got rounded over, and then just left, perhaps that could have been an air leak in addition to a bad sensor.
    I wouldn't use stainless unless the bolt is stainless. Dis-similar metals creates a whole other issue due to galling. If you do use stainless make sure to use anti-seize.
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    I wouldn't use stainless unless the bolt is stainless. Dis-similar metals creates a whole other issue due to galling. If you do use stainless make sure to use anti-seize.
    Thanks!

    Just called Toyota and they'd have to order them, so I'll just stick some anti-seize on there with the stainless.
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  50. #450
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    Well I got rid of one code, P0171 came back.
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  51. #451
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    MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. May not be a bad sensor, but a difference in what the MAF thinks is flowing versus what your new O2 sensor is seeing out the exhaust. Look for a leak behind the MAF. This is what happened to my Diesel Benz and was never found by the dealer. It caused the car to get labeled a "lemon" and I bought it CHEAP. Once I found the problem (a cracked plenum), it hasn't set another code.

    A smoke test should find it.
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by AVL-MTB View Post
    Anyone here know where my 10mm socket is?
    Was it a deep socket or standard? Iím not telling you which one I found or the brand.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  53. #453
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    clean your maf and check for torn boots or vacuum leaks. as far as a 10mm socket you might find some in irrigation boxes, parking lots and well pretty much anywhere.
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  54. #454
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    The 10mm socket is still on the nut in the engine bay, you'll find it after you buy a new one. Either that or it's with the 13mm socket.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  55. #455
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    have you ever started a car with a wrench that you left on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer?
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    have you ever started a car with a wrench that you left on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer?
    Sounds like a good time. LOL
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  57. #457
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    I've been seeing references to 10 mm sockets all over the internet lately.

    Is this the latest internet "thing"? Where'd it start?
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  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    have you ever started a car with a wrench that you left on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer?
    But isn't that the most efficient way to tighten/loosen that bolt?
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  59. #459
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    actually tried to loosen a crank pulley once on an E55 mercedes using the starter. its something like 270ft/lbs plus 90 degrees.
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. May not be a bad sensor, but a difference in what the MAF thinks is flowing versus what your new O2 sensor is seeing out the exhaust. Look for a leak behind the MAF. This is what happened to my Diesel Benz and was never found by the dealer. It caused the car to get labeled a "lemon" and I bought it CHEAP. Once I found the problem (a cracked plenum), it hasn't set another code.

    A smoke test should find it.
    I try to keep up on cleaning the MAF, and I meant to do it before I left but ran out of time/forgot. I'll be looking into the smoke test and talking with my wrenching friends in SoCal, we should be able to get it code free without too much trouble, I'm already half way there!
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  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    I try to keep up on cleaning the MAF, and I meant to do it before I left but ran out of time/forgot. I'll be looking into the smoke test and talking with my wrenching friends in SoCal, we should be able to get it code free without too much trouble, I'm already half way there!
    A word of advice on wrenching on vehicles, thereís never a ďhalf wayĒ point.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    The 10mm socket is still on the nut in the engine bay, you'll find it after you buy a new one. Either that or it's with the 13mm socket.
    hahaha

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  64. #464
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    Idler pulley for the serpentine belt on my 2003 sprinter is squealing occasionally at start up, it hadn't done it for a week or so, but it did just now while driving to town, so I looked up when I last replaced the tensioner and the idlers and belt, 70,000 miles ago, part of me wanted to just replace the bad idler, but, as long as I'm in there... I ordered a new belt, tensioner, and both idler pulleys, $139, worth it for the peace of mind. I'll save the good old parts and chuck them in my "roadside emergency parts" box that lives in the van.

  65. #465
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    Good idea. I never understood people who would buy a new belt or wipers and not put them on. They would have them under the seat till they "needed" them. You have new ones put them on and hang onto the old ones.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    Good idea. I never understood people who would buy a new belt or wipers and not put them on. They would have them under the seat till they "needed" them. You have new ones put them on and hang onto the old ones.
    I keep a full set of new pistons, rings, cam shaft and a spare crankshaft under my seat.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    I keep a full set of new pistons, rings, cam shaft and a spare crankshaft under my seat.
    Just chuck 'em in on the side of the road if any of them fail while on a road trip!

    You do have some plastigauge strips under the seat too, yea? To make sure bearing tolerances are correct for your roadside rebuild?

  68. #468
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    You didn't put the new pistons in first and save the old ones?

    I keep 2 spare driveshafts in my truck and several rolls of duct tape. Never know....

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    I never understood people who would buy a new belt or wipers and not put them on.
    I do that. I buy stuff at a VW Group trade centre and tend to buy stuff that i think I'll need for the next year. For example I have two new oil filters in the shed, just fitted two. Next oil change I don't need to go out and buy filters. Bought two new wipers while I was there. Ones on the car are working ok but the driver's side is just starting to wobble a bit. When it starts to shudder or smear, I don't need to get in the car, drive to the parts store and buy a new one.

  70. #470
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    Those aren't things that fail and make the car undriveable though.

  71. #471
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    I will say here in Arizona it's best to keep your wiper blades in the car. If it starts to rain get out and put them on. That way they don't dry rot in the summer sun.

    As far as my daily driver I don't keep spares of stuff but my 4x4s I have many spares of different items, even brake hoses. When something failed out on the trail I buy 2. One to fix what broke and another for backup. But there will always be something that will fail you never expected to.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    But there will always be something that will fail you never expected to.
    Yes! Especially the nut that holds the steering wheel.
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  73. #473
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    I have been in a car where someone did not tighten the bolt that holds the steering shaft to the rack. I was passenger. It was code brown.

  74. #474
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    Thinking I might not have to do any more wrenching on the Taco, if I trade it in for a TDI wagon. I might be able to get ~6k and put a couple thousand into a 2013'ish wagon, there seems to be quite a few out here for around 8,000 with under 100k on the clock.
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  75. #475
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    Wrenching on cars.-pro-tip-drain-all-oil-squeeze-car-61021782.png
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  76. #476
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    Lol
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  77. #477
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    Wrenching on cars.-561dbb7fc9568ca48f0876c8ba243d26.jpg
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Thinking I might not have to do any more wrenching on the Taco, if I trade it in for a TDI wagon.
    True, you'll be wrenching on the TDI wagon.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    True, you'll be wrenching on the TDI wagon.
    Nah, I'll take it to the shop and have them do it if it needs something wrenched on. My friend had a 2012 and said it was pretty reliable.
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  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    True, you'll be wrenching on the TDI wagon.
    I didnít want to go there, but yeah. More than likely more often than the Taco and more money when thereís a problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    I didnít want to go there, but yeah. More than likely more often than the Taco and more money when thereís a problem.
    A 2012-13 Jetta is less reliable than a 2000 Tacoma?
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  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    A 2012-13 Jetta is less reliable than a 2000 Tacoma?
    LOL
    I knew I could lure you out of hibernation.

    I didnít know what years you were looking at but it is still possible.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    LOL
    I knew I could lure you out of hibernation.

    I didnít know what years you were looking at but it is still possible.
    Please see post #478.

    Perhaps I should start my own thread instead of hijacking this one.

    *Added a winky for you, DJ.
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  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Please see post #478.

    Perhaps I should start my own thread instead of hijacking this one.
    How much mileage on the Jetta?

    I saw the other day that Vdub is discontinuing the SportWagon and AllTrack due to low sales. The article was blaming VW for not doing much marketing on those models. Would be tempting if I could find one at a great price.

    But repair parts are expensive for VWs.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    How much mileage on the Jetta?

    I saw the other day that Vdub is discontinuing the SportWagon and AllTrack due to low sales. The article was blaming VW for not doing much marketing on those models. Would be tempting if I could find one at a great price.

    But repair parts are expensive for VWs.
    There are a few that I've been looking at on various sites, most are under 100k. Here's the new thread:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/off-camber-o...s-1111511.html
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  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Please see post #478.

    Perhaps I should start my own thread instead of hijacking this one.

    *Added a winky for you, DJ.
    Yeah, sorry no time to scroll back through every thread.

    Besides what is in post #478 that tells me the year range of Jettas that you were interested in? Nothing, zilch, nada.

    Wrenching on cars.-9e85f2f1-13e4-4191-becf-1b7146053833.jpeg
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  87. #487
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    I didn't really mean it as saying the TDI would need a lot of work, I just thought it was funny that Corn said "I might not have to do any more wrenching on the Taco if I trade it in". Believe me, once I sell my Forester I plan on doing zip maintenance on it!
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  88. #488
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    And by the way, Iím my opinion if you go for another vehicle no matter what it is. Sell the Taco, you'll get more $$$$ for it than trading it in. Many places wonít even take a trade that is that old anyway.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  89. #489
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    I always wanted a mk1 diesel golf. Slower than hell but great fuel mileage and car run on just about anything.

  90. #490
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    I'd like to find a 4wd Toyota Tercel wagon in good shape. Those things were indestructible, capable as all get out + cheap & reliable.

    https://youtu.be/dENUYo1ce_U
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    I have been in a car where someone did not tighten the bolt that holds the steering shaft to the rack. I was passenger. It was code brown.
    I knew someone that had a Mk3 GTI where the steering rack disconnected on the freeway. He said that the steering wheel just went "loose". They were fortunate enough to just coast to the side of the road. Someone was looking out for him that day.

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    I'd like to find a 4wd Toyota Tercel wagon in good shape. Those things were indestructible, capable as all get out + cheap & reliable.

    https://youtu.be/dENUYo1ce_U
    It's tempting, but I want a VW for a change. I had one of these BITD, drove the snot out of it, would go anywhere.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9kwVg7vzK4
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  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    It's tempting, but I want a VW for a change. I had one of these BITD, drove the snot out of it, would go anywhere.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9kwVg7vzK4
    Oh yeah, I remember those things.
    Is there a practical, capable, non gas guzzler people hauler like that made anymore?
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  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Oh yeah, I remember those things.
    Is there a practical, capable, non gas guzzler people hauler like that made anymore?
    Maybe the CRV?

    If I could have anything I wanted it'd probably be a cross between a van and a wagon, just a bit more utility'ish than a 4 door passenger vehicle, like having only two seats with a bigger cargo area in a Jetta wagon.
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  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Maybe the CRV?

    If I could have anything I wanted it'd probably be a cross between a van and a wagon, just a bit more utility'ish than a 4 door passenger vehicle, like having only two seats with a bigger cargo area in a Jetta wagon.
    Yeah, and I'm surprised there aren't more vehicles that bridge the wagon to van, as you say that'd be a very utilitarian vehicle indeed. The newer Highlander's kinda seem like that. If Sienna's had more ground clearance I'd buy one in a heartbeat as they say. I do see there are lift kits for the first 2 gen's though.

    Been living with a newer full size Ford van & gotta say I don't love it. The space is great for riding & camping of which I do a lot but that's it. Even for work I don't need that much space and loading stuff on top is way up there. Off road capability straight sucks along with mileage. My former awd Astro's were way better vehicles. Anyway, good luck with your on your TDI quest. I was a huge VW guy back in the day but once I got a van there's no going back for me.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  96. #496
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    I want a Subaru brat. I know subies real well but hard to find. Just like the VW trucks

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Yeah, and I'm surprised there aren't more vehicles that bridge the wagon to van, as you say that'd be a very utilitarian vehicle indeed.
    Mercedes R320, even comes with a diesel back to 2007, I'm not sure how they are for reliability/cost of repair though,



    https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...&firstRecord=0

  98. #498
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    THey make it with a forced induction V8 too, with 500 HP, LOL


  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    I want a Subaru brat. I know subies real well but hard to find. Just like the VW trucks
    My dad bought one new in 1978. I used take it on ski trips up to Steamboat. Fun little ride in the snow. Front wheel drive / 4WD.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    Mercedes R320, even comes with a diesel back to 2007, I'm not sure how they are for reliability/cost of repair though,



    https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...&firstRecord=0
    Here's mine. It's an '09 Bluetek diesel with 92K mi. on it. We love it. I chased an issue which caused it to be deemed a "lemon" and got it cheap. It turned out to be a broken air intake from some dumbass, ham-fisted tech when they replaced the turbo at 30K mi. under recall.

    Wrenching on cars.-r320_1.jpg

    All that said, it's a Benz so everything is pricey.

    Cruising at 70 on the freeway I get over 28 mpg, though. ...and the Air ride suspension, SOOO nice!
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  101. #501
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    Awesome you got a great deal on it and tracked down an inexpensive fix. Hard to argue about a diesel with the MPG youíre getting. Still not much of a fan of the stinky things. Maybe Iím a bit bias as to regularly witnessing all the rednecks in my area rolling coal on innocent pedestrians. I just witnessed a dude a couple of days ago in a lifted Dodge purposely roll coal on a teenage girl on her bike. Pissed me off but the traffic was such I couldnít work my way over before he turned off. Iím thinking he knew I was pissed as after he did it I suddenly sped up trying to get up to him. He quickly turned off and I was stuck in congested traffic.

    Not saying your little wagon is set up to roll coal like some of the lifted redneck trucks. Just rambling away as usual, sorry.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  102. #502
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    Yeah, I'm not sure how I would roll coal with this thing. The only way you know it's an oil burner is from the rattle under the hood and the smell of raw fuel when I'm refilling it. This thing has 400 lb/ft of torque too, so it shits and gits! Oh and it's a 4Matic AWD.
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  103. #503
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    Only time I enjoyed someone roll coal was on a Tesla driving like a complete ass pissing people while recording it. The Dodge got in front of the Tesla, started to do a burnout and smoked him out. The Tesla was covered in rubber.

  104. #504
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    RIP, Jessi Combs

    For you car guys... I just saw this on the news. Jessi Combs, from Overhaulin', All Girl's Garage and several other car related programs, was killed yesterday in Southeast Oregon, during a speed record attempt.

    She was 36.

    Story here: https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...-record-crash/
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  105. #505
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    So sad, a very warm friendly personality. Iíve watched her on a couple of car shows over a 10 year span. As you said, very talented. Iím crushed by this, she was a beautiful soul.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  106. #506
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    Wow, very sad indeed. She certainly brightened every show with her enthusiasm without being over the top. RIP and my prayers are with her and her loved ones.

  107. #507
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    Now it says 120 something miles on the trip OD!*



    *What is missing in this picture?
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  108. #508
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    a CEL?
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  109. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    a CEL?
    Correct!

    After changing out the A/F sensor cleared one of the codes I wanted to clean the MAF and see if that would fix the P0170, but I ran out of time before my trip. I finally cleaned it and the code has been gone! If it stays off that means I don't have to go hunting around for the problem (smoke test, etc).
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  110. #510
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    my little work taco has had the CEL on for a long while. I know what it is and it does not cause a drivability problem. the charcoal canister is finished and has an evap emissions code. however I can get it to pass emissions just long enough for the code not to set with some vacuum line manipulations.
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  111. #511
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    I've had a CEL on for so long it's uncanny having it off.

    Looking back I'm kinda amazed at what's been recommended by shops; replace cats, replace thermostat, "fuel rail clean", etc. You guys have been way more helpful, thank you!

    Makes me happy I couldn't afford to get duped, lol!
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  112. #512
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    How's the project truck coming along, azimiut?
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  113. #513
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    Barely touched it. It's been too damn hot to work on it. But next week it is supposed to be under 100. I have been gathering parts instead. Got parts to finish off my front axle and a new rear axle.

    Been working on the power steering system since it didn't have power steering to start with. I'm going to do a steering with hydraulic ram assist. I have the steering box rebuilt and ported for the ram.

  114. #514
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    Nice, can't wait to see it!
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  115. #515
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    Yea I'm excited to finally get something done on it. Just ordered a ton of parts for it last night actually. Various brackets and parts for the rear axle. That will be a bit of work. I have to cut off all the old brackets to get it to fit. Not only is it a GM 14 bolt going in a Ford but my truck is different from other fords.

    I was upset that the headers I got don't fit because my truck is a highboy and the frame is narrower than a standard truck. My factory manifolds were both cracked so I cleaned and welded them back up. Hopefully they won't continue to crack.

  116. #516
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    Was looking at another ford highboy like mine that is all done up to get some ideas on exhaust and fuel tank and such and noticed his rear springs. I think he could fit a few more in there....

    Wrenching on cars.-img_20191001_171702492_burst000_cover_top.jpg

    I have not really had a chance to work on my truck that much in the past few weeks. I keep getting more parts piled up that need to go on. One of our foremen at work had been in a car accident and has been out of work for the past few weeks. I have had to cover him so my normal work has had to get done on the weekends so I have had no time. Plus I'm off to a bike race Sat so this weekend is out as well. but bike race! Tour of the White Mountains.
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  117. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by azimiut View Post
    Tour of the White Mountains.
    In eastern california? Such a cool spot!

  118. #518
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    north east arizona. Pinetop
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  119. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Now it says 120 something miles on the trip OD!*



    *What is missing in this picture?
    You got 'em TDI?!??!?!?!?

    Saaawweeettttt!!!!!!

  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Now it says 120 something miles on the trip OD!*



    *What is missing in this picture?
    A 1/4 tank of gas and according to your gas gauge symbol your gas cap is on the right of the vehicle. That would tell me you are not in your Tacoma, possibly a TDI, your current dream vehicle and recently purchased.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  121. #521
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    So, my 2003 sprinter, I was driving back from cali, and filled up in central nevada, and spent the night in eastern nevada, the weather was quite unseasonably cold, that next morning the van started just fine, but when climbing hills 20 min later the engine was getting starved for fuel, *sigh*

    Probably due to "summer diesel" in the 40* temps. So slow to 60 MPH and all is happy, I get to the next gas station and dump a bunch of "arctic" diesel additive in the tank and fill it up, 6 gallons or so in the 28 gallon tank... The van runs fine once again, hammer down uphill, no issues, cool.

    I get home and a guy needs a lift to the airport, 80 miles away, my Jetta has a leaking headgasket, so it has to be the sprinter, and low and behold, I am once again limited to 60 MPH due to fuel starvation, *sigh*

    So I get home and I replace the 2 micron CAT fuel filter I added to the fuel system, it was rather old and they are pretty cheap... Crank for a bit, it fires up, and I go for a test drive up to the ski hill, I keep it matted for as long as I dare, drive the exhaust temp way over 1400*F and the van doesn't hesitate, sweet, problem fixed..


    Today I was driving around and the van starts hesitating again due to fuel starvation, FML

    I actually don't have a spare stock fuel filter for the van in my garage, and nobody in town has one, but they'll have one tomorrow morning.

    When I added the 2 micron CAT fuel filter I did have to add an electric pump to push fuel through it, I can still hear that pump running, the 9 PSI that it generates should be enough to overwhelm even an old clogged fuel filter, *sigh*

    I'm pretty annoyed by the whole deal. And I really don't care to pull the head my Jetta, I really should, but, man, I feel like a dipshit having 2 vehicles and neither one runs correctly right now. Anyone have a guiltenne I can borrow?

  122. #522
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    You should have bought a 3rd vehicle for a spare.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  123. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    You should have bought a 3rd vehicle for a spare.
    I do have a motorcycle as well :-)

  124. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    You got 'em TDI?!??!?!?!?

    Saaawweeettttt!!!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    A 1/4 tank of gas and according to your gas gauge symbol your gas cap is on the right of the vehicle. That would tell me you are not in your Tacoma, possibly a TDI, your current dream vehicle and recently purchased.
    Are you guys sniffing glue? It's the Taco's dash, and the gas gauge is pointing to the frikkin left!!!

    I guess I was kinda vague just posting that out of the blue, coulda worded it better. Well the CEL light is still off, now it does come on every once in a while but it's been off for the majority of a month, woohoo!

    Sorry to hear about your vehicle probs Jack. You need a sidehack for your motorbike!
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  125. #525
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    Chevy work truck has been running great for a while. It needs emissions tested this month. Oct 1st cel. Wtf. Haven't checked to see what it is. Has a bad exhaust leak I'm sure it's that.

  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Are you guys sniffing glue? It's the Taco's dash, and the gas gauge is pointing to the frikkin left!!!
    Skimmers.

    And how did DJ get a 1/4 tank of gas out of that when it's more like 3/4?!
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Skimmers.

    And how did DJ get a 1/4 tank of gas out of that when it's more like 3/4?!
    That's one thing he did get right, because I asked: "What is missing in this picture?"

    I am missing a 1/4 (1/5 really) tank of gas along with the CEL.

    How he got that my gas cap was on the right is a complete mystery.
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  128. #528
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    Iím glad I got one thing right. 🙈
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  129. #529
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    Ahh, that explains it! I couldn't figure out how DJ could have misread that.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  130. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Ahh, that explains it! I couldn't figure out how DJ could have misread that.
    He was missing a 1/4 of a tank. Hard to keep up with that DJ character.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  131. #531
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    Sprinter is running right, well, it did on the test drive, but it did run well on a test drive after I replaced the aftermarket fuel filter a few days ago too, hopefully this time it will run correctly tomorrow, and maybe even the day after that...


    I replaced the stock fuel filter and every o-ring in the fuel system, if the fuel system is still leaking air in when it is parked and not delivering enough to the HPFP under high load I might just light the whole van on fire.

    Now I really should pull the head off my Jetta's engine so I can ship it on Monday so it can get rebuilt while I am away from home, but, man, I realy really don't give a **** right now...

  132. #532
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    Do you know what's bad on the jetta's head?

  133. #533
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    I'm getting a bit of exhaust in my cooling system, no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil, so its kind of the "best leak" you can have with the head gasket. It has 240k miles on it and that car makes a lot more power than stock. Its a bit annoying to have to deal with, but getting new valve guides and seals and a valve job will be nice.

  134. #534
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    Getting my van ready for an annual trip to Moab which is about 1k miles one way for me. I drive 84 through the Columbia Gorge and over the Walla Walla's etc which has many precipitous cliffs and drop offs for fast highway driving. One thing's for sure, the stock headlights on a 2011 Ford van are worthless. After much reading I decided to go with a European style headlight lens and got Hella's.

    Interesting side track, there are large differences in American headlight laws vs European headlight specs. American headlights are required to spill a certain percentage of light into the sky to light highway signs overhead where European lenses do not and spill more light out to the sides to light the shoulder off the highway. Apparently the American design of requiring skyward light really limits the optics one can build into a lense. The European design allows for more beam concentration and thus throw. I'll tell ya, driving around a couple times now with the European style lights and it's very different indeed. Just seems like you get a far better and more usable beam pattern, I like it.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  135. #535
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    Also on the fence about changing my oil for the trip. It has 4k on it and wager I'll drive about 2500k on the trip. I'm new to synthetic oil and am used to changing it at 3-5k or whenever it got dirty and thickened up really. The first oil change on the new van got pretty dark and thick right around 4500 miles so I changed it. At 4k now it's just starting to get dirty. Napa gold filter with their full syn oil. When I drive back from Moab it's usually in one 14-16 hour shot at 80mph which I'm sure is hard on oil. What would you do, change it for the trip to be safe or let it go for the full 7500 mile service interval?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  136. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    let it go for the full 7500 mile service interval?
    Does the owners manual state the 7500 interval?

    My 2003 Jetta has a 10,000 inteval and MUST have synthetic, my 2003 sprinter gets changed every 15,000 miles.

    So much oil gets changed too soon.

    If the owners manual says 7500 aand you have synthetic in there I would ABSOLUTELY go 7500 miles.

    When you do change it at 7500 send a sample to Blackstone labs to get analysed, I bet you can comfortably run the oil 10,000 miles and save time and money, assuming you keep running synthetic. I have run my van oil to 17,000 miles and it still tested fine, it does hold 9 quarts, but still...

    https://www.blackstone-labs.com/prod...ree-test-kits/

  137. #537
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    Change it to be safe. I run Mobil One 15,000 mile synthetic. Have for years. I still change it at between 3,000 & 5,000 miles just to be safe.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Change it to be safe. I run Mobil One 15,000 mile synthetic. Have for years. I still change it at between 3,000 & 5,000 miles just to be safe.
    Absolute waste of money, and time.

  139. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    Absolute waste of money, and time.
    Yep, but worth it for peace of mind.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    Does the owners manual state the 7500 interval?

    My 2003 Jetta has a 10,000 inteval and MUST have synthetic, my 2003 sprinter gets changed every 15,000 miles.

    So much oil gets changed too soon.

    If the owners manual says 7500 aand you have synthetic in there I would ABSOLUTELY go 7500 miles.

    When you do change it at 7500 send a sample to Blackstone labs to get analysed, I bet you can comfortably run the oil 10,000 miles and save time and money, assuming you keep running synthetic. I have run my van oil to 17,000 miles and it still tested fine, it does hold 9 quarts, but still...

    https://www.blackstone-labs.com/prod...ree-test-kits/
    Good input and yeah an analysis is the only way to know for sure. There are some caveats here though. This will be the third oil change since taking ownership of the van. Typically when I get a new used vehicle I pay close attention to the oil and will do short interval oil changes if necessary untill the oil stays cleaner longer. I've read this is the best way to address sludge/buildup if the previous owner did not do the best maintenance or used shitty oil.

    Also my van calls for motortcraft full syn for those 7500k intervals. Motortcraft oil is expensive as hell and thus I'm not using it. Right now it has Napa full syn which I understand people are getting 6k before it begins to break down...this from reading on bob the oil guy. From this point forward I'll be using Castrol gtx magnetec which I've read is top performing oil and I can buy cheap.

    I think I'll just check it again before I leave and decide based on how it looks.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  141. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Change it to be safe. I run Mobil One 15,000 mile synthetic. Have for years. I still change it at between 3,000 & 5,000 miles just to be safe.
    Why not just run a really good conventional oil?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  142. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Yep, but worth it for peace of mind.
    The only thing that provides actual peace of mind is a used oil analysis.

  143. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Why not just run a really good conventional oil?
    Because full synthetic is way better. Peace of mind running a good synthetic and changing it out before itís recommended interval just makes me feel better. Do what you want, thatís how I do it. May be a waste of money and time but oil is the heartbeat of the motor. Longevity is what I seek in a motor. I havenít used conventional oil for 20 years or so.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    From this point forward I'll be using Castrol gtx magnetec which I've read is top performing oil and I can buy cheap.
    Mobil 1 is only $5 a quart when you buy a 5 quart jug at walmart.

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Do what you want, thatís how I do it.
    Can't argue with that my man.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  146. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    Mobil 1 is only $5 a quart when you buy a 5 quart jug at walmart.
    Just changed mine the other day and bought the oil and filter at Wal Fart.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    Mobil 1 is only $5 a quart when you buy a 5 quart jug at walmart.
    I'd have to go back and re-read some more but think the magnetec outperforms the Mobil-1 and I got 5 quarts for around $23 or something.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  148. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    I'd have to go back and re-read some more but think the magnetec outperforms the Mobil-1 and I got 5 quarts for around $23 or something.
    Sorry, nothing out performs Moble - 1 in performance and longevity. NOTHING!
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  149. #549
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    To really truly know when you should have your oil changed you need to test it. There are many factors that make a difference on oil longevity. I drive my bronco maybe 3k miles a year but change the oil usually at 3k. I start the truck maybe every two weeks let it warm up and drive it around the property. But I change the oil after about 8-10 months. Oil goes bad and collects moisture plus it's a tired old engine.

    The other reason is oil volume. The solution to pollution is dilution. European cars tend to hold more oil and can go longer between changes. My little commuter car only holds 3.5 quarts with filter. The oil goes bad quickly not just because of lack of volume but also at highway speed it's just under 4k rpm for 40 miles a day.

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Sorry, nothing out performs Moble - 1 in performance and longevity. NOTHING!
    Just don't use it on an engine with flat tappet lifters. It lacks zinc.

  151. #551
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    Duplicate
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  152. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Just don't use it on an engine with flat tappet lifters. It lacks zinc.
    Correct, older vehicles with flat tappet cams need zinc enriched in conventional oil to keep it cool.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  153. #553
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    Synthetic oil really dropped in price the last few years. Funny though, I don't think the oil change places bothered to lower their prices on synthetic changes. I've been using Pennzoil Platinum in my wife's car. I was picking it up at Home Depot for less than $20 but they've gone up on it.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  154. #554
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    Finally got some time to work on my truck. Got the exhaust all back on the truck. Getting ready to swap the front axle for the beast. I took the knuckles off the front and have a gusset kit to strengthen them. Because a kingpin 60 front just needs a little bit of help.

    Wrenching on cars.-img_20191010_115125528.jpg
    Wrenching on cars.-img_20191010_115305858.jpg



    Im also trying to figure what engine is actually in it. unfortunately Ford FE motors are identical on the outside from 360ci to 428ci. I have either the 410ci or 428ci because the engine has a 4in stroke.
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  155. #555
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    Hopefully youíve got the 428ci block. Way more desirable that the 410ci.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  156. #556
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    Welding on the knuckles is almost finished need some more steel to finish off some corners

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  157. #557
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    Brakes / Braking practices ?

    I'm so old, I don't even know where, how or who I read this info from but always felt that when stopping the vehicles, it is best to brake some, release, brake again, release in that type of fashion. Always thought or heard that it allows the brakes to cool off a bit from the friction / heat build up.

    - Thoughts or comments on this being advisable, worthwhile or true ?

    I still drive this way.
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again. :madman:


  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by bachman1961 View Post
    I'm so old, I don't even know where, how or who I read this info from but always felt that when stopping the vehicles, it is best to brake some, release, brake again, release in that type of fashion. Always thought or heard that it allows the brakes to cool off a bit from the friction / heat build up.

    - Thoughts or comments on this being advisable, worthwhile or true ?

    I still drive this way.
    Iíve always driven that way not necessarily for cooling the pads but to prevent rapid wear. Cramming on the brakes hard is just going to wear the pads out quicker. Learning to drive defensively and planning ahead on braking, rather than the last minute cramming them on is going to give longer life to the brakes.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  159. #559
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    Probably left over from the pre antilock brake days. That is effectively what antilock brakes do, at a very rapid pace; so that your wheels don't lock up and skid, putting you out of control.

    If you are descending long stretches of mountain road, then you don't want to continuously ride your brakes as they can overheat (hence why you'd put it in a lower gear), but in normal driving, no need to brake/release. If you are paying attention and not tailgating, shouldn't need to jam on the brakes.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  160. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Probably left over from the pre antilock brake days. That is effectively what antilock brakes do, at a very rapid pace; so that your wheels don't lock up and skid, putting you out of control.

    If you are descending long stretches of mountain road, then you don't want to continuously ride your brakes as they can overheat (hence why you'd put it in a lower gear), but in normal driving, no need to brake/release. If you are paying attention and not tailgating, shouldn't need to jam on the brakes.
    Yep, old habits are hard to break / brake.

    Also some newer vehicles have a braking system in the transmission for going downhill. My Tacoma has that and when I first bought it I thought the tranny was acting up. Not sure exactly how it works but it definitely helps in preventing as much braking going downhill.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  161. #561
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    Thanks for the input.
    Along the lines of DJ's post, I was thinking it on saving wear too.

    As per the pumping brakes in winter condition's like a manual version of ABS ,, I def was taught that 'in the day' and it served me well. Before coming to Colorado, I had 16 years of Michigan winters to gain some experience, 10 of those pre-dating front wheel drive which I do count as a 'thing'.

    My current VW with DSG trans offers some odd feel to it but I count it as modern tech and changes I'll get used to. There is nothing about that little car I don't love though. The older I get, the easier it is for me to research and check the right boxes for what I want and expect out of almost anything.
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again. :madman:


  162. #562
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    While I'm waiting on parts for suspension I thought I would go about working on the electrical. The whole harness was wrapped with duct tape, thats a no-no. peeled that off and found many wires simply tied together. no insulation, no crimps, no butt connectors. good thing its an old truck and very simple. there are only 7 fuses total.

    A fair amount of the wiring is not going to be used. I am getting rid of the factory ford alternator that is externally regulated and going with a GM 1 wire. The distributor is very simple, Malory Unilite 3 wire. Ditching the factory gauges and going all digital with a gps speedometer.

    Wrenching on cars.-img_20191108_075531240_hdr.jpg
    Dont make me go all Jonathan Winters on this gas station.

  163. #563
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    ^^^ Painless products makes some universal wiring kits which make it easier, if not painless.

    I am trying to remember what modern" alternator I put in my Mustang 10 years ago. What I am hearing now is that a 1 wire alternator is not the way to go, but rather a 3g style alternator as they charge at a lower RPM. Also, be prepared to deal with your belt system. Switching from about a 60 amp alternator to 100 amp puts more stress on the belt, thus you might get squealing as I did. It was worst under heavy electrical load like head lights on and electric cooling fan running. None the less I went with a dual belt pulley system (below) from CVF Racing. (they have serpentine kits too but they are more expensive.

    Wrenching on cars.-img_3765.jpg

  164. #564
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    I thought about the painless kits but it's such a simple harness it's an easy fix. Just needs to be cleaned up.

    It's a 100 amp alternator and dual belt from the factory. Old school guys do not like one wire, say they are for boats and tractors. It's an internal regulator alt like almost any new car these days.

    I'm running dual spal 20" fans, they tax the system the most 50amp start, 20 amp run for both. I'm thinking of going back to a clutch fan, but the e-fans make it safer to work on for now. I will be running a frame mounted trans cooler and ps cooler with fans. Currently with the rad fans on at idle 720rpm I'm getting 13.4v.

  165. #565
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    Somewhere back in this thread I mentioned my new to me 2011 Econoline acted like it had air in the brake lines. Bleeding them had no affect and theorized the abs module needed bleeding as that is what I was seeing on line. Whelp, before my Moab trip I visually checked the pads and noticed my driver's side rear pads were wearing unevenly. Finally got around to changing them and discovered the lower guide pin was seized in the caliper.

    The pins are covered by boots and booth lower one's were missing as they're vulnerable. The other side was rusty and gummed up but spun. They're massive calipers and the pin is 3/4" by about 1-1/2" seized inside the caliper. Even torch heat and an impact would not budge it. New caliper and bracket ($74) and this thing finally has real brakes.

    The crux here is I know the lady I bought it from spent a bunch of money on this thing trying to sort it out and is why I ended up getting it so cheap. After I replaced all the front end I had it aligned and also spent some money having a shop "fix" the brakes. In retrospect, any tech worth his salt should've discovered the seized pin straight away. You could visually see the lower pins were missing their boots/rusty and one spin of the wrench would confirm the problem.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  166. #566
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    Also, regarding the magnetec oil, my van definitely sounds different and seems to turn over faster at start up.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  167. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Somewhere back in this thread I mentioned my new to me 2011 Econoline acted like it had air in the brake lines. Bleeding them had no affect and theorized the abs module needed bleeding as that is what I was seeing on line. Whelp, before my Moab trip I visually checked the pads and noticed my driver's side rear pads were wearing unevenly. Finally got around to changing them and discovered the lower guide pin was seized in the caliper.

    The pins are covered by boots and booth lower one's were missing as they're vulnerable. The other side was rusty and gummed up but spun. They're massive calipers and the pin is 3/4" by about 1-1/2" seized inside the caliper. Even torch heat and an impact would not budge it. New caliper and bracket ($74) and this thing finally has real brakes.

    The crux here is I know the lady I bought it from spent a bunch of money on this thing trying to sort it out and is why I ended up getting it so cheap. After I replaced all the front end I had it aligned and also spent some money having a shop "fix" the brakes. In retrospect, any tech worth his salt should've discovered the seized pin straight away. You could visually see the lower pins were missing their boots/rusty and one spin of the wrench would confirm the problem.
    You're not wrong. Many "Techs" today are little more than parts changers. They follow a scripted decision making process and change out likely bad parts and call it good. Often that works just fine and fixes the problems. When a deep dive is needed, not many are trained to get to the root cause.

    That's pretty much what happened to get my R Class deemed a lemon. I bought it super cheap and figured it out within a month or so.
    "And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called, The Human Race..."

  168. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    You're not wrong. Many "Techs" today are little more than parts changers. They follow a scripted decision making process and change out likely bad parts and call it good. Often that works just fine and fixes the problems. When a deep dive is needed, not many are trained to get to the root cause.
    I take that step further and say that's becoming the case across all the trades unfortunately. Furthermore people are losing touch with what actual craftsmanship and quality are, at least in my business. Not good.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    You're not wrong. Many "Techs" today are little more than parts changers. They follow a scripted decision making process and change out likely bad parts and call it good. Often that works just fine and fixes the problems. When a deep dive is needed, not many are trained to get to the root cause.

    we had that problem when I was a tech. When we hired new techs they were from UTI( Un Trained Idiots) or dealer where you replace the old part with the same part. It was a performance shop, everything was aftermarket. you had to think for yourself and solve problems without alldata or instructions. sometimes there were instructions, but not always in English, most of the time it was German or Japanese. many parts did not fit, or it wasn't actually for that model car but might fit.

    like trying to fit 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag
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