Retouching Guitar Body- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Retouching Guitar Body

    My eldest son bought a bass guitar today as he fancies learning, it's a Fender Precision Lyte Deluxe from the late nineties. It's in pretty nice condition for its age, just needs a set-up really, but the body has a bit of wear I'd like to tidy if possible.

    The body is oiled mahogany and is showing wear in a few places, as you might expect. It's through to the bare wood. I tried to take pictures but it's one of those things that tends to be hard to photograph.

    The question is, what kind of oil is this likely to be and if I find the right stuff can I just apply it to the worn areas?

    Thank you :0)

    Retouching Guitar Body-003-3-.jpg

    Retouching Guitar Body-009.jpg

    Retouching Guitar Body-010.jpg

  2. #2
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    Nice looking bass! If you just want to touch up the raw areas you'll need a wipe on oil that'll dry and protect the wood. There's a bunch of different wood restorers out there and I've tried a few. The ones I tried seem to dry up eventually and look like they were never applied; Formby's lemon oil and Scott's Liquid Gold.

    I did find something that seemed to work- Flood Penotrol. I wiped it all over a reception desk at a bank a few years ago and it evened out the dry spots nicely, but haven't been back to see if it still looks as good as it did when I put it on. I'd imagine it's fine since I haven't been called back to fix it.

    I have a kitchen that's got really old dry lacquer that needs brought back to life, so I'll be trying some of these products again here shortly.
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  3. #3
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    As a luthier for the last twenty years I think I'm qualified to comment. Tung oil or Linseed oil would be the right product. Doesn't really matter which you use, and yes you can only apply it to the areas that need it. Note that it has a fairly long cure time, and will put the bass out of commission for a bit while it sets up. Until then it's gonna be a tacky mess. Find a well ventilated place to hang it where the smell won't bug you too much.

  4. #4
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    It also takes a while to build it up, so depending on the wear, this could be a long process.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey Trevor View Post
    As a luthier for the last twenty years I think I'm qualified to comment. Tung oil or Linseed oil would be the right product. Doesn't really matter which you use, and yes you can only apply it to the areas that need it. Note that it has a fairly long cure time, and will put the bass out of commission for a bit while it sets up. Until then it's gonna be a tacky mess. Find a well ventilated place to hang it where the smell won't bug you too much.
    I agree, Tung soil or Linseed oil are both great. Tung oil comes in different tones for dark or light woods. Also Teak oil is another good one.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey Trevor View Post
    it's gonna be a tacky mess.
    That is why I didn't want to use linseed oil for my nipples. plus it stinks!

    I can't remember exactly how long it took for the Penetrol to dry, I think it was overnight.
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  7. #7
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    Retouching Guitar Body

    The correct way to apply any penetrating oil finish whether it's tung oil linseed or a modified oil finish like Watco is to apply the oil with a brush and rub it in with a scotchbrite pad by hand then let it penetrate into the wood and wipe off the excess before it gets tacky, let it dry and repeat as many times as you need to get the desired build and sheen.
    The Fender looks good!
    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  8. #8
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    And a bass is not a guitar! "Bass guitar" - no! It's a bass.
    This post is a natural product. Variances in spelling & grammar should be appreciated as part of its character & beauty.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    And a bass is not a guitar! "Bass guitar" - no! It's a bass.
    I didn't want to go there.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    The correct way to apply any penetrating oil finish whether it's tung oil linseed or a modified oil finish like Watco is to apply the oil with a brush and rub it in with a scotchbrite pad by hand then let it penetrate into the wood and wipe off the excess before it gets tacky, let it dry and repeat as many times as you need to get the desired build and sheen.
    The Fender looks good!
    The scothbrite pad acts as a sand paper / a form of wet sanding. It opens the grain of the wood so the oil penetrates. Great addition.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  11. #11
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    Thanks guys. Can't rep in here, which is annoying.

    I should have some teak-oil around here but I'll buy the Linseed oil if that would be better. When I was a kid I can remember my dad using that on his cricket bat ;0) The advice on how to apply it is useful too, thanks for that. So I should try to dab it only on the bare areas?

    My eldest plays drums normally but he's living up in Edinburgh just now and wants something to fill time. He was going to buy a cheaper bass but I said that buying a quality one will be cheaper in the long as it will hold value, plus he'll have a nicer instrument to play on. I don't think this bass will loose any value at all, as long as it's kept in good working condition. We bought it locally but the seller had a lot of interest from far afield. One guy wanted to fly over from Germany to buy it! Apparently they are really nice to play on and have a very versatile range of sounds.

    My other son bought a new bass recently, it's a Cort one. Sounded amazing in the shop, really jumped out.

    Retouching Guitar Body-artisan_c4_zbmh1-1-.png

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