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  1. #1
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    Amazing Ride at Wedge Today

    This is unbelievable. It is tough enough to even surf at the wedge, but to swap boards in the middle of a ride. I have never seen that before.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_rGy08i8ME

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    Ha! Brilliant vid! Wonder what the back story on that one is.

    I accidentally board hopped once. Some kook dropped in on me, so I shoulder checked him but our boards got tangled. I hopped over to his board as he fell off and scooped up mine. When his leash played out I got tossed off and managed to land on my belly back on my board. Now, if I had somehow landed standing and finished the wave it woulda been super rad, but I was already laughing my arse off at what I had done..... so good enough.

  3. #3
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    The Wedge has some insane surf. I've never surfed there, but I have surfed waves bigger than that.

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    Uh-oh, we got the surfer boys together and chatting. Terms like "kook" are coming out.

    I've never understood riding the shore break at The Wedge. You get slammed into the sand at the end. Where's the fun in that?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    You get slammed into the sand at the end. Where's the fun in that?
    I dunno...sounds like mountain biking. And I love mountain biking.
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    Cowabunga dude he's graduated Barney status.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Uh-oh, we got the surfer boys together and chatting. Terms like "kook" are coming out.

    I've never understood riding the shore break at The Wedge. You get slammed into the sand at the end. Where's the fun in that?
    near vegas

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRingGrinder View Post
    Ha! Brilliant vid! Wonder what the back story on that one is.
    You know I was trying to figure out how he could have paddled into the wave and got the second board. He almost had to have someone feed it to him right as he was dropping in.

    Regardless, it is really insane to even attempt that, much less pull it off.

    BigRingGrinder, I've seen someone push someone off their board after dropping in on him; then grab the board and deposit it on the rocks before kicking out.

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    I body-boarded at this place. IMO, it's just as crazy, even crazier, than the Wedge. Every wave closes out. You might get a 2 second ride. It breaks in inches of water. I'm lucky I didn't break my neck there.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0mHrkBn-8k

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    This is the biggest I have seen it here since Hurricane Linda in '97. I live at the Point (a little bit north of the wedge on the peninsula) and not only is it huge but it is shaped real well too.

    Here's a shot from our family room just now, look at the left over my neighbor's fence.
    Amazing Ride at Wedge Today-image.jpg


    Here's a pic of a guy getting interviewed in front of my house last night then the pic below that is from the news report.
    Amazing Ride at Wedge Today-image.jpg

    Amazing Ride at Wedge Today-image.jpg


    It took me twice as long to get home from my office just now because so many people are driving in to see the waves.

  11. #11
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    Let's go surfin' now, everybody's learnin' how, come-on on safari with me!

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/QXUhbrzzKKg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    This is BRG rippin' it up!!!

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    Gordon, are you going to venture out?
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    Quote Originally Posted by net wurker View Post
    Gordon, are you going to venture out?
    Suicide mission...
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Shumway View Post
    More:

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    These are some kick ass pics!
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  16. #16
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    Amazing Ride at Wedge Today

    Who is JOB?

    Short board is on the nose of the longboard facing backwards with find hanging over the nose.

  17. #17
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    My son who asked me if it was Jamie O'Brien and I asked "Is that JOB?"

    I started hitting the waves again in the early 2000's after being away 25 years, but that return was longboarding. The guys I followed were Joel Tudor, Jimmy Gamboa, etc. I've been out of the water again for the last few years and haven't been following it.

    John

    EDIT: PUNKY, thanks for the info on how he set it up. I didn't pick up on that.
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  18. #18
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    I used to bodyboard all year long every weekend any chance i got. Never boarded at the wedge though, that is nasty shore break. 20ft waves into 2ft flat..no thanks. I do love watching the videos on youtube however. I haven't been out once this summer and i know there is a crazy swell right now

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Uh-oh, we got the surfer boys together and chatting. Terms like "kook" are coming out.

    I've never understood riding the shore break at The Wedge. You get slammed into the sand at the end. Where's the fun in that?
    And Squid, for the non locals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ray View Post
    I body-boarded at this place. IMO, it's just as crazy, even crazier, than the Wedge. Every wave closes out. You might get a 2 second ride. It breaks in inches of water. I'm lucky I didn't break my neck there.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0mHrkBn-8k

    I think the biggest wave I ever body surfed was at most 3.5 or 4 feet, backside, maybe 7 or 8 foot face. Even with deep water to land in in front of you, that was my personal limit... level of power, under tow, swirl, sand mixed in water in every orfice, and it sometimes taking 10 seconds or more to known which way was up if you got caught up in it, or rarely, got thrown to the bottom and got the wind knocked out of you... That cured me. It's a *****en perspective of the wave when you are in it, but L.A County beachs just are not known in too many areas for having good point breaks, Malibu excepted, but that's all claimed by surfers. Too many people, too many locals, i would think, these days, it was a lot less crowded back in the mid '70's at the beach.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Shumway View Post
    This is the biggest I have seen it here since Hurricane Linda in '97. I live at the Point (a little bit north of the wedge on the peninsula) and not only is it huge but it is shaped real well too.

    Here's a shot from our family room just now, look at the left over my neighbor's fence.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It took me twice as long to get home from my office just now because so many people are driving in to see the waves.
    Can I park in your carport today in my white passat while you are at work? I've never been to the Wedge or HB for that matter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Uh-oh, we got the surfer boys together and chatting. Terms like "kook" are coming out.

    I've never understood riding the shore break at The Wedge. You get slammed into the sand at the end. Where's the fun in that?
    In San Diego there's Marine St. and Boomers for that. I met a kneeboarder out at a beach break lineup who had dual rods along his spine from body surfing at Marine St.
    So much fun!

    In S. swells like this one, N. beach in Coronado catches it better than anyplace else in the County. I also know of a kid who died there after being pounded into the sand on q big swell, body surfing the shorebreak. As the lifeguard told it, he got up, said, "my neck feels funny!" and twisted his neck, ala self-chiropractic -style, and plop! hit the sand. Code blue. Un- revivable. At least it was quick....

    also, one of my old martial art students, on his way to surf a break oat Sunset Cliffs, slipped and compression fractured his T 12/L 1. This, after being slammed into the ground thousands of times in training. I think he was concentrating on protecting his new un-dinged board. Priorities.

    That said, in all of my decades surfing here and elsewhere, like the N. shore of Oahu, I never hurt myself as badly as I have mtb-ing.

    So we may not know it, but we are taking bigger risks by riding our bikes than we would surfing.

  23. #23
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    Amazing Ride at Wedge Today

    The Wedge is crazy and not for kooks on big days. Used to body surf there in the 80's but never had the juevos to ride my short board there. Cloudbreak at Seal can be hairy too. Man I miss Cali...


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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyonadyke View Post
    Can I park in your carport today in my white passat while you are at work? I've never been to the Wedge or HB for that matter.
    Sorry just saw this, haven't been able to browse MTBR at work lately because I am in a crazy busy time right now. The waves aren't huge anymore like yesterday anyways. Still good waves but not the 20ft stuff from yesterday.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ray View Post
    In San Diego there's Marine St. and Boomers for that. I met a kneeboarder out at a beach break lineup who had dual rods along his spine from body surfing at Marine St.
    So much fun!

    In S. swells like this one, N. beach in Coronado catches it better than anyplace else in the County. I also know of a kid who died there after being pounded into the sand on q big swell, body surfing the shorebreak. As the lifeguard told it, he got up, said, "my neck feels funny!" and twisted his neck, ala self-chiropractic -style, and plop! hit the sand. Code blue. Un- revivable. At least it was quick....

    also, one of my old martial art students, on his way to surf a break oat Sunset Cliffs, slipped and compression fractured his T 12/L 1. This, after being slammed into the ground thousands of times in training. I think he was concentrating on protecting his new un-dinged board. Priorities.

    That said, in all of my decades surfing here and elsewhere, like the N. shore of Oahu, I never hurt myself as badly as I have mtb-ing.

    So we may not know it, but we are taking bigger risks by riding our bikes than we would surfing.
    Yep Ray Marine Street is famous for dropping your ass on the beach abruptly. It's also known for ripping girls bikini tops off which isn't so bad. I've body boarded there and it was just too brutal of a landing for me. In recent years it's become the perfect destination for skim boarders. As the wave recedes back into the ocean they run and drop their board in the water that's only 2" deep then jump on the board. They can time it to get a good long skimming ride and then catch the incoming wave and launch a perfect jump off of it. This beach break really is the perfect skim boarders break.

    Speaking of large waves I body boarded some 8' ers off Crystal Pier in Pacific Beach during one of these winter storms years ago. A wave shut out and I was slammed to the bottom and stuck in the washing machine. Held in the bottom and confused if which way was up. It seemed like forever before I finally broke free and surfaced. For those unfamiliar with the power of the ocean and what big waves can do it's hard to explain it until you've been in it. Very scary stuff.

    Also rip currents can take you out to see before you realize what's going on. You can swim as hard as you can towards shore and not make any headway. Many people drown from this not knowing how to get out of it. I was caught in one off Calafia Beach Mexico near Rosarito one time that I could have easily drowned if I wasn't aware of what to do. I kept trying to swim in and couldn't get there then in a state of exhaustion it dawned on me that I was stuck in a rip current and being sucked out to sea. I luckily figured it out in time to swim parallel to the beach until I made it out of the rip. Then I could swim in. By the time I made it to shore I could barely drag myself onto the beach I was so exhausted. I know if I didn't realize the situation with just minutes to spare I would have drowned for sure.


    Theres a bunch of Skim board videos of Marine Street San Diego. Here's a good one. It's an awesome sport for young guys but it's way dangerous as your only in a few inches to a few feet of water. Serious injury can occur.

    Check it out:. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJrPvtL_fOs
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 70sSanO View Post
    My son who asked me if it was Jamie O'Brien and I asked "Is that JOB?"

    I started hitting the waves again in the early 2000's after being away 25 years, but that return was longboarding. The guys I followed were Joel Tudor, Jimmy Gamboa, etc. I've been out of the water again for the last few years and haven't been following it.

    John

    EDIT: PUNKY, thanks for the info on how he set it up. I didn't pick up on that.
    Tudor is pretty sick. I tried to buy an original HPD for Tudor off a local surf shop, glassed on side bites, with sliderbox centre fin longboard. Sadly, the price they want for it makes it an investment/wall hanger. Oh well might get a 9'2" HPD ITP now instead.
    Hes been attempting and doing the board transfers for a few years now. Was taking punter/comp wax and applying it to the foamie/bottom of short board to add b2b friction.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ray View Post
    In San Diego there's Marine St. and Boomers for that. I met a kneeboarder out at a beach break lineup who had dual rods along his spine from body surfing at Marine St.
    So much fun!

    In S. swells like this one, N. beach in Coronado catches it better than anyplace else in the County. I also know of a kid who died there after being pounded into the sand on q big swell, body surfing the shorebreak. As the lifeguard told it, he got up, said, "my neck feels funny!" and twisted his neck, ala self-chiropractic -style, and plop! hit the sand. Code blue. Un- revivable. At least it was quick....

    also, one of my old martial art students, on his way to surf a break oat Sunset Cliffs, slipped and compression fractured his T 12/L 1. This, after being slammed into the ground thousands of times in training. I think he was concentrating on protecting his new un-dinged board. Priorities.

    That said, in all of my decades surfing here and elsewhere, like the N. shore of Oahu, I never hurt myself as badly as I have mtb-ing.

    So we may not know it, but we are taking bigger risks by riding our bikes than we would surfing.
    I can verify this... cracked or fractured ribs 3 times in 6 years, separated left shoulder two times. I have all my major injuries in life due to mountain bike riding. Prior to that, I've had no broken bones or stitches. MTN biking is bad to the bone for adrenaline junkies, but us mere mortals can and do get hurt riding sweet single track. I've never been hurt riding fireroad, just single track, where all the fun is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyonadyke View Post
    I can verify this... cracked or fractured ribs 3 times in 6 years, separated left shoulder two times. I have all my major injuries in life due to mountain bike riding. Prior to that, I've had no broken bones or stitches. MTN biking is bad to the bone for adrenaline junkies, but us mere mortals can and do get hurt riding sweet single track. I've never been hurt riding fireroad, just single track, where all the fun is.
    Ummm we're talking waves H2O and surfing not mountain biking. Go to Hawgs bike thread for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    Ummm we're talking waves H2O and surfing not mountain biking. Go to Hawgs bike thread for that.
    Seems you've never been hurt seriously mountain biking? Ask Hawg about being cored and the helicopter ride out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyonadyke View Post
    Seems you've never been hurt seriously mountain biking? Ask Hawg about being cored and the helicopter ride out.
    First off I was joking with you. We are in the OC aren't we.

    And yes I've had numerous injuries in 14 years plus of mountain biking. The worst being a shattered not fractured but a shattered wrist joint. That was in 08' and my wrist is ruined for life because of it. Every day I have pain in it and have lost 40-50% of its normal movement.

    Back to surf talk.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ray View Post
    So we may not know it, but we are taking bigger risks by riding our bikes than we would surfing.
    I would equate it to cars (mtb) vs planes (surfing). Cars have a far higher chance of fender benders, but when it goes wrong with a plane the chances of fatality are high.

    Not the perfect analogy, but the risk of drowning (let alone getting pounded into reef/sand) while surfing big waves is ever present. That being said, i am looking forward to big waves this winter. This recent swell missed most of San Diego. It was big, but it was twice as big up the coast where the coastal contour wraps to catch south swells. Gimmie a massive north/north west swell hammering sunset cliffs tyvm!

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRingGrinder View Post
    I would equate it to cars (mtb) vs planes (surfing). Cars have a far higher chance of fender benders, but when it goes wrong with a plane the chances of fatality are high.

    Not the perfect analogy, but the risk of drowning (let alone getting pounded into reef/sand) while surfing big waves is ever present. That being said, i am looking forward to big waves this winter. This recent swell missed most of San Diego. It was big, but it was twice as big up the coast where the coastal contour wraps to catch south swells. Gimmie a massive north/north west swell hammering sunset cliffs tyvm!
    The biggest wave I ever caught was at Sunset Cliffs, on a huge NW swell that was closing out almost a mile of breaks 9 out of 10 sets. For example,a straight-wall closeout from Subs to North Garbage. None of my friends would go out. I was one of only 8 guys who went out that day. I caught my wave, a monster triple overhead left, and rode it in.

    It was jus a matter of getting out through the channel, such as it was that day, (timing) and then waiting, way outside, for that one rideable set wave to come through.

    And then, to get out of the water alive.

    I think we called that day "Big Monday". To this day, every time one of my old surfing buds razzes me about not getting wet anymore, I just remind them of Big Monday, when NONE of them would go out with me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Ray View Post
    The biggest wave I ever caught was at Sunset Cliffs, on a huge NW swell that was closing out almost a mile of breaks 9 out of 10 sets. For example,a straight-wall closeout from Subs to North Garbage. None of my friends would go out. I was one of only 8 guys who went out that day. I caught my wave, a monster triple overhead left, and rode it in.

    It was jus a matter of getting out through the channel, such as it was that day, (timing) and then waiting, way outside, for that one rideable set wave to come through.

    And then, to get out of the water alive.

    I think we called that day "Big Monday". To this day, every time one of my old surfing buds razzes me about not getting wet anymore, I just remind them of Big Monday, when NONE of them would go out with me.
    That sounds like a good experience, scary and all. Perhaps when you get tired of your current username, "Big Monday" would be a good choice?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    First off I was joking with you. We are in the OC aren't we.

    And yes I've had numerous injuries in 14 years plus of mountain biking. The worst being a shattered not fractured but a shattered wrist joint. That was in 08' and my wrist is ruined for life because of it. Every day I have pain in it and have lost 40-50% of its normal movement.

    Back to surf talk.

    It's over, surf shrinkage yesterday and today.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    That sounds like a good experience, scary and all. Perhaps when you get tired of your current username, "Big Monday" would be a good choice?
    Dunno, maybe Mucho Grande Huevos or Big Johnson would work too? Old Johnson? ;-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    That sounds like a good experience, scary and all. Perhaps when you get tired of your current username, "Big Monday" would be a good choice?
    No way, Jose.....I ain't like that anymore.

    That was one helluva ride. I made that wave on a custom fiberglass bellyboard....52" long, the fastest board I ever had. Guys on guns who dropped in on me got run into with that board.

    As BRG can tell you, S. Garbage is a peak break when it's big....you can usually go left or right, depending on where you drop in. On this day, everything was totally out of proportion. I took off on the right, and saw an opportunity, with that short boards' speed, and my close proximity to the face, to cut left, and I did so. I was briefly in the barrel, then I was spat out to the left, just flying. The wall of the wave looked like it was gonna hold up for me at that speed. In fact, I was outrunning it a bit, so I chanced a bit of a cutback to get up higher on the face.

    It was only the that I realized how BIG that wave was.....I saw a guy on his board, scratching like crazy to get over the wall, and he was like, fifteen feet below me! Crazy big wall.

    It was a near-perfect giant wave. The usual steps and bumps were not on this wave. It's like it was destined to be caught and ridden....by me. And yeah, it was what you might call a religious experience for me. I've surfed Pipeline, Sunset Beach, Makapuu, but nothing there ever equaled that wave I caught in my own back yard. That day was close to 30 years ago.

    I rode that wave all the way across most of the channel between N. and S. Garbage reefs, before I was able to pull up over the face before it closed out, which it did, HARD. It was just a small re-form wave from there right back to the steps.

    I got out. That one wave made for the whole day.

    In fact, it made for my entire persona out at Garbage. Everybody saw that. Everybody was waiting for me at the top of the stairs. Everybody told me I was phuking-nuts, too.

    But I did it. And I never let them forget it either.

    But I really ain't like that anymore. These days, I KNOW I can be hurt. Back then, I knew I could not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyonadyke View Post
    Dunno, maybe Mucho Grande Huevos or Big Johnson would work too? Old Johnson? ;-)
    Or the Big Kahuna
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Amazing Ride at Wedge Today-image.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

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