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  1. #1
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    2020 Optic

    Who's ridden one/owns one and how are you getting on with it?

    Looking at adding a bike between my Smuggler and Enduro, have been looking at Yeti's, until I cam across the Optic, which ticks a lot of boxes.

    Picked up a stumpjumper evo the other week, didn't get on with it at all, headtube is really low, so you lose a load of reach once you've got the bars at the right height. Its since been sold on ebay after two rides!

    Anyone know what the shock dimensions and fork offset are?

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    shock is 190 x 45.

    Fork offset is 42mm.

    As I mentioned to you via Instagram messenger, a great bit of kit!

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    It looks like a wicked bike alright, would be top of my list if I were shopping this year. But in regards to the OP's question; would there be enough separation between the Smuggler and the Optic to justify both?

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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    But in regards to the OP's question; would there be enough separation between the Smuggler and the Optic to justify both?
    There is a high possibility that the Optic would replace the smuggler.

    However, the Optic is a fair bit slacker and a longer than the smuggler. In fact its pretty close to the enduro.

    Also having two bikes that are close isn't a problem, just means I can have the smuggler setup for xc (midweek rides) and the Optic can be setup for the weekend (trail/enduro type riding), for when I dont want something as big and steamrollery as the enduro.

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    OPTIC for the Pinkbike bike of the year win!!

    I just threw a leg over one at the shop - they finished the build while there... I banged if off some curbs, parking blocks etc... not a real test frankly but enough to sense there is something really good going on with this bike

    fork was way to stiff, seat was too low, but shock was about 29% sag... I slowed the rebound and it settled in to my version of a lot test nicely. Fit and "feel for fit" was really spot on even w the longer dimensions than my current bike and seat height off, bars too wide etc... still "felt" decent which kinda surprised me. Btw this and the Sight - which does "feel bigger and longer" - cuz it is, its likely gonna be tough call but I sure do see the potential for it as a shorter travel trail crusher

  6. #6
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    Random Q, but has anyone seen the estimated weight for the frame and shock only?
    Thanks!
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

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    I'd take a guess at it being around 3200. This was based on the C2 bike being 13.8kg and then taking the weights of all the components off

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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Random Q, but has anyone seen the estimated weight for the frame and shock only?
    Thanks!
    My large frame w/ shock weighs 6.77 lbs. (3.07 kg). That's without the chainstay protector.

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    Here's my C1, coming off an Intense I notice the extra weight and it's certainly no XC bike in terms of pedalling performance but it rips down hills.
    I've changed the wheels to LB carbon and got rid of the XTR brakes for Hopes.

    https://www.facebook.com/Astroracer/...type=3&theater

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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    Here's my C1, coming off an Intense I notice the extra weight and it's certainly no XC bike in terms of pedalling performance but it rips down hills.
    I've changed the wheels to LB carbon and got rid of the XTR brakes for Hopes.

    https://www.facebook.com/Astroracer/...type=3&theater
    Looks good mate. What Intense were you riding? I'm on a 2015 Tracer, but will be getting a new bike this year. Looking at the Sight or a Nukeproof Mega.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir HC View Post
    There is a high possibility that the Optic would replace the smuggler.

    However, the Optic is a fair bit slacker and a longer than the smuggler. In fact its pretty close to the enduro.

    Also having two bikes that are close isn't a problem, just means I can have the smuggler setup for xc (midweek rides) and the Optic can be setup for the weekend (trail/enduro type riding), for when I dont want something as big and steamrollery as the enduro.
    N+1 right? My vote is have all 3.☝️
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    N+1 right? My vote is have all 3.☝️
    In the end I ordered a Reactor 290, couldn't bring myself to buy a bike from Evans. Norco need to sort themselves out a proper distributor in the UK, they didn't want to get hold of a frame only and I was loathed to buy a C1 just for the frame.

    Also bought a Scout 290 and a Privateer, so complete change in the bike fleet!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Windband View Post
    Looks good mate. What Intense were you riding? I'm on a 2015 Tracer, but will be getting a new bike this year. Looking at the Sight or a Nukeproof Mega.
    Hi mate, coming off a Spider 29C and a Carbine.
    It's heaps better without the factory wheels and I went for a more sensible tyre selection that drops the rolling resistance down a bit, if I do some shuttle runs then I'll put the MM back up front but the HD is fine with a a Minion SS out back.
    We don't see many Nukeproofs here in Australia so I can't comment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    Hi mate, coming off a Spider 29C and a Carbine.
    It's heaps better without the factory wheels and I went for a more sensible tyre selection that drops the rolling resistance down a bit, if I do some shuttle runs then I'll put the MM back up front but the HD is fine with a a Minion SS out back.
    We don't see many Nukeproofs here in Australia so I can't comment.
    Glad it's working out for you so far! It's a great looking bike.

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    Anyone know if a 2.6 could fit in the rear?

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    Great review in the latest Enduro Mag trail bike test. 15 bikes tested. Optic seems to be near their top of mind, list w the genre bending Optic

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    Anyone have an incite in n sizing up at 5'8"?im trying to decide between the sight and optic and I'm thinking this route might work the best for me.

    I ride in the Atlantic provinces and sometime travel for dh trips. Currently riding a Rocky instinct bc and it works reay well for the area.

  18. #18
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    any "non-magazine" reviewers present and want to offer their reviews of the Optic?

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    So how would this bike compare with the Sight 2019? The travel of the 2020 Optic is nearly on par with the 2019 Sight. But in terms of geometry how do they compare/contrast? How different/similar do they ride?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kulharin View Post
    So how would this bike compare with the Sight 2019? The travel of the 2020 Optic is nearly on par with the 2019 Sight. But in terms of geometry how do they compare/contrast? How different/similar do they ride?
    Start with seat tube angle and head tube angle

  21. #21
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    small review

    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    any "non-magazine" reviewers present and want to offer their reviews of the Optic?
    I have an Optic since Christmas but it is too early for me for a full review. There are a fiew key facts I could give you:

    - I'm 190cm tall and the XL fits me fine. It is a bit longer than my Orbea Rallon and I aprecciate that. Trail feel is very simmilar but with more room to move on the bike.

    - My bike is a rebuild C3 and weights now 13,5 kg with pedals and all. (XX1 crank, XM150 - 30 Wheesl, OneUp 35mm rise bar, Magic Mary 2,6 in front, X01 cassette, GX drivetrain, Select+ Pike - my bike was delivered with it)

    - The OneUp Bar with 35mm rise and 800mm long made a big difference for me. I am used to longer bars and to a higher front, so the flat 780mm bar felt wrong to me. (Time for a new Enduro-sled I guess)

    - 2,6 tires do fit for sure. I have a 2,4" DHR in the back with plenty of room.

    - I used "ride aligned" to tune in the suspension. My setup is now a bit firmer than they suggested. The suspension works wery good in my opinon as I am used to firmer suspension action on my Rallon. As far as I can tell you are able to setup the Optic more plush or firmer as I did.

    As mentioned before it is too early for a full review as my trails here are too sloppy for higher speeds but the bike feels really good to me.

  22. #22
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    I'm surprised there isn't more discussion on this bike with what seems to be limited availability and the praise it has received? I called shops within 2 hours of me and no one has the C2 and in my size, Large, and it won't be available until at least May. I'm planning to demo one next month as the Norco Demo comes through and also plan to demo the Process 134 as I'm considering a 29" replacement for my 5010. I guess I could look at the C3 and move my drivetrain and brakes from the 5010, if they are available in my size. It appears the only real difference besides the drivetrain/brakes are the hubs between the two, assuming you get the Pike Select+ like @firevsh2o did.
    So many trails, so little time.

    Ibis Ripley V4, Pike Ultimate 140, I9 Trail S Hydra

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    I'd love to discuss them, just can't find somewhere to demo one(or even buy one lol) :\. KC area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelandk2 View Post
    I'd love to discuss them, just can't find somewhere to demo one(or even buy one lol) :\. KC area.
    I understand completely. Luckily we have the demo coming through, well 1.5 hours away, at the end of March that will have them. Of course if it takes that long to finally see/ride one the availability may be pushed back further than May...
    So many trails, so little time.

    Ibis Ripley V4, Pike Ultimate 140, I9 Trail S Hydra

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    Yeah... for me it would be right there with the TB4/Ripley/Rascal or maybe the Ripmo (if they at least put out a new color, not a fan of the 2 current ones personally :P) but I cant ride it, and I haven't seen as much unanimous confidence in their suspension platform that I have with SC/ibis etc (not that it hasn't gotten good reviews, but I've heard people like bikemag be a tad less praising of it's climbing for example). Also it's such an extreme geo... I feel pretty risky buying it without some sort of firsthand knowledge Į\_(ツ)_/Į.

    Anyone have any genius ideas for me? Looking for something fun/efficient while being a trail bike that is capable of doing ... most stuff without being to scary. Oh... and to make it harder for you, I can't demo almost anything lol. Because I'm in Kansas City and all anyone seems to demo are hightowers and specialized bikes ;P. I'll be at outerbike Bentonville, but that's in October.

    Norco Optic - Pretty much what I want, but the above problems. Also in an awesome price range.

    TB4 - I can get a sick bike for 6k if I do a custom build (hydra hubs, CC frame, Pike, slx/xt Drivetrain, Pike Ult). Bit over my budget... but w/e. Also don't like either colors particularly.

    Ripley - Can get a Stock SLX bike with a pike Ult upgrade for 4800. - Awesome bike, but maybe a little to xc/light? (I ride KC/Bentonville mostly, and weigh 210)

    Rascal - Pretty much what I want I guess, but it's one of those bike's I'd kind of want to demo. Not sure I have a good reason, I've just heard it's a bit more plush and bigger bike feel (only LT bike I've ridden was a Evil Wreckoning which I really hated, felt like I couldn't turn it at all).

    Or

    Wait till spring for new bikes (ripmo rumors are abound ?).

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    Quote Originally Posted by firevsh2o View Post
    I have an Optic since Christmas but it is too early for me for a full review. There are a fiew key facts I could give you:

    - I'm 190cm tall and the XL fits me fine. It is a bit longer than my Orbea Rallon and I aprecciate that. Trail feel is very simmilar but with more room to move on the bike.

    - My bike is a rebuild C3 and weights now 13,5 kg with pedals and all. (XX1 crank, XM150 - 30 Wheesl, OneUp 35mm rise bar, Magic Mary 2,6 in front, X01 cassette, GX drivetrain, Select+ Pike - my bike was delivered with it)

    - The OneUp Bar with 35mm rise and 800mm long made a big difference for me. I am used to longer bars and to a higher front, so the flat 780mm bar felt wrong to me. (Time for a new Enduro-sled I guess)

    - 2,6 tires do fit for sure. I have a 2,4" DHR in the back with plenty of room.

    - I used "ride aligned" to tune in the suspension. My setup is now a bit firmer than they suggested. The suspension works wery good in my opinon as I am used to firmer suspension action on my Rallon. As far as I can tell you are able to setup the Optic more plush or firmer as I did.

    As mentioned before it is too early for a full review as my trails here are too sloppy for higher speeds but the bike feels really good to me.

    Have you cracked open the air can on the Super Deluxe to see how many spacers (if any) are stock? I haven't opened mine up yet and can't seem to find this information online.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gdmack View Post
    Have you cracked open the air can on the Super Deluxe to see how many spacers (if any) are stock? I haven't opened mine up yet and can't seem to find this information online.
    No I did not open it yet.

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    I chatted w norco while on their website as the Ride aligned guide shows I should be setup w 4.5 volume bands. The online rep "checked" and stated it has 4.5 installed as shipped from Norco... I'd prob guess its accurate, but always good to check

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    I demoed the Optic 2x. in that same stretch I demoed the new Sight and Niner Rip 9. A ways back I demoed the Ripmo.

    I did a Sight/Optic comparison on the Sight thread. Basically - the Optic is REALLY good. Geo like all reviews state is just dialed. I ride in the front range of CO. I prob don't need more travel than the optic has on tap and it did indeed feel like a bit more. Im getting on in my age and while im a decent rider up and down, kinda wondering if I "want" more to keep the aging bones and tissues from feeling it as much.

    I couldnt ride my go to test loop as it stays shaded and full of death ice. But where I did ride had a decent mix of some chatter, chunk some lips and tech features... Optic didn't flinch - and it is fun and easy to pop off anything bigger than a gnats ass..

    BTW - my rear shock wasn't set up proper and it still was pretty incredible. After those demos my rankings are:

    Optic 1A. Most exciting ride overall. Giggle factor = 10. I believe this would likely serve me best overall.

    Rip 9 1B felt they had similar character ride qualities - but you could feel there was more plush travel on tap in the Rip. Downside is Niner's brand equity and long term viability?

    Sight. just felt a bit big overall, yet climbs respectable and wanted to run wide out going down - probably too wide out for my comfort zone and trails I regularly ride. Was the alloy and could feel the extra near 4lbs weight..

    Ripmo. Good bike - but did nothing for me overall. Would be easy to own if not exciting?

    Outlier/take a risk. YT new Jeffsy. Great value, great overall mag tests/reviews - but can't demo and no ride it return it policy like other consumer direct.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelandk2 View Post
    Yeah... for me it would be right there with the TB4/Ripley/Rascal or maybe the Ripmo (if they at least put out a new color, not a fan of the 2 current ones personally
    In the last two weeks I have demoed all of these except the Rascal due to my DPX2 having to be warrantied. I thought the Ripley and TB were both impressive bikes though they felt smaller than my 5010, all size large. Maybe this is due to the steeper STA as I felt this more seated than standing with the post dropped. Unfortunately I didn't ride them on the same trails and got very little downhill on the TB. The Ripmo was surprisingly good on flowy/XC type trails but was more difficult on sustained climbing and likely overkill for 90% of my riding, it was fun when pointed down though.

    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Ripmo. Good bike - but did nothing for me overall. Would be easy to own if not exciting?
    Good insight and the same feeling I had on the Ripmo! How did the Optic handle tight switchbacks? I'm looking forward to trying the Optic and Process 134 in the next few weeks to see if I really want something other than my 5010. I want the poppy playfulness it has but think I want to go back to 29" wheels as they really shine in many places that I normally ride and help make easy work of the rocky and rooty sections we have in this area.
    So many trails, so little time.

    Ibis Ripley V4, Pike Ultimate 140, I9 Trail S Hydra

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    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    Start with seat tube angle and head tube angle
    1 and 2 degree difference, 65 vs 66 and 74 vs 76, not too dramatic.

    Enlighten me more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kulharin View Post
    1 and 2 degree difference, 65 vs 66 and 74 vs 76, not too dramatic.

    Enlighten me more.
    Iíd consider those numbers to be dramatic differences. I donít think youíre taking into account the travel differential between the bikes.

    The Sight is effectively a 67* head angle at the same fork travel as the Optic (alternatively, the Optic would be a 64* head angle if it had a 160 fork like the Sight).

    The seat angle of the Sight will also be comparatively slacker than the 74* suggests considering that it will sag into 140mm of rear travel vs the 125mm of the optic.

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    I didn't ride the tightest of switchers, but a handful of the typical here in the front range both up and down - no prob - didn't have to think twice about it. Love it when that happens!

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    Quote Originally Posted by irck View Post
    Iíd consider those numbers to be dramatic differences. I donít think youíre taking into account the travel differential between the bikes.

    The Sight is effectively a 67* head angle at the same fork travel as the Optic (alternatively, the Optic would be a 64* head angle if it had a 160 fork like the Sight).

    The seat angle of the Sight will also be comparatively slacker than the 74* suggests considering that it will sag into 140mm of rear travel vs the 125mm of the optic.
    I am comparing the Sight 2019 29er with the Optic 2020.

    The 19 29er sight rear travel was 130mm with a 150mm fork.

    I might have been on the wrong sight page last night looking at geometry.

    Essentially not sure if I should pick up a sight from last year since you can get a great price on em or look closer at the new topic. Both bikes seem like they would ride the same trails.

  35. #35
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    So, I might have weak search fu on the Norco website, but did they ditch the XS 27.5 optic for 2020?
    Trying to find one for wifey.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kulharin View Post
    I am comparing the Sight 2019 29er with the Optic 2020.

    The 19 29er sight rear travel was 130mm with a 150mm fork.

    I might have been on the wrong sight page last night looking at geometry.

    Essentially not sure if I should pick up a sight from last year since you can get a great price on em or look closer at the new topic. Both bikes seem like they would ride the same trails.
    https://www.norco.com/bikes/2019/mou...rbon/sight-c1/

    My bad. Youíre right about the rear travel being 130 but the fork travel is definitely 160.

    I was having the same dilemma as you because the 2019 Sight can be had for such good price and spec. It sounds like a great bike and the main flaw you read about is that itís a noticeably sluggish pedaler.

    I went with the Optic because it has up to date geometry so Iíd be happy to sit on the frame for more years without feeling that the bike was outdated. The geometry of the Sight was too similar to my old 2015 (14?) Trance SX (though a 650b) and seemed like a sideways upgrade that just got me bigger wheels and no other geometry improvements.

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    curious as to what the leverage curve of this bike is. i wonder how a cane creek coil would get along on the new optic

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    So Optic 2020 will handle long distances and uphill better than 2019 sight it sounds like?

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    Quote Originally Posted by AF2NR View Post
    I'm surprised there isn't more discussion on this bike with what seems to be limited availability and the praise it has received? I called shops within 2 hours of me and no one has the C2 and in my size, Large, and it won't be available until at least May. I'm planning to demo one next month as the Norco Demo comes through and also plan to demo the Process 134 as I'm considering a 29" replacement for my 5010. I guess I could look at the C3 and move my drivetrain and brakes from the 5010, if they are available in my size. It appears the only real difference besides the drivetrain/brakes are the hubs between the two, assuming you get the Pike Select+ like @firevsh2o did.
    Iīm also a little surprised about this very calm discussion here about the new Optic. If you are interested, you can find many pics of us Optic bikers in Europe (Germany/Austria) here:
    https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/norc...c-2020.909079/
    And: we are all very, very impressed and really happy with this bike!

  40. #40
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    What stem are you guys using? Has anyone experimented with different lengths and, if yes, what are your thoughts so far?

    Since I bought the frame, mine didn't come with the recommended (Norco branded) 45mm. I have a 50mm on it and the steering seems a tad unresponsive/slow. I have a spare 40mm so I'm going to try that next ride. 45mm is an uncommon size and I'm wondering if 5mm is really enough of a difference to make a noticeable difference for most?

  41. #41
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    I am 5'10 on a large optic and the 40mm stem feels perfect for me.
    SEI Racing

  42. #42
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    This thread needs some more build pics. Here is mine.




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    Sweet looking build!

    Anyone think the June 2020 date listed for frame only availability on the Norco website is pretty realistic? Saw completes are looking like March 2020, also saw a $200 bump in prices on their website recently too. Looks like the Optics are a hot commodity.

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    I just noticed the price bump too, definitely a turn off. Especially with their bs house made components on it. The c2 build was looking pretty sweet but like I said, at 4700 I donít think the value is there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EastFallsShredSquad View Post
    Sweet looking build!

    Anyone think the June 2020 date listed for frame only availability on the Norco website is pretty realistic? Saw completes are looking like March 2020, also saw a $200 bump in prices on their website recently too. Looks like the Optics are a hot commodity.
    I don't know. Norco is probably concerned about possible supply chain issues in the coming weeks if things go south. So I'm not ready to make any predictions.




    Edit: Jeremy, I'm not usually a big fan of that purple but your build is insane. Brilliant job.

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    I was looking at the C2 but that price increase was rude! No gracias.


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    anyone else notice the pic from Sedona? MRP Hazzard Coil on a Optic C2...

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by j-t-g View Post
    I don't know. Norco is probably concerned about possible supply chain issues in the coming weeks if things go south. So I'm not ready to make any predictions.




    Edit: Jeremy, I'm not usually a big fan of that purple but your build is insane. Brilliant job.
    Thanks. My only option was frame only and there was no sense in going conservative on the build when you are rocking a bright purple frame.


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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    anyone else notice the pic from Sedona? MRP Hazzard Coil on a Optic C2...
    That sounds interesting. Do you have a link to the pic?

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    unfortinaltey the shot was just the shock and lower section of frame at BB w some bottom tube, and shock linkage - the color had me thinking it was Optic - turns out it was a Range

    Sorry for the mis-info!

    MRP doesn't make the hazard in the stock Optic size but seems the 200x45 w offset bushing could be a go. CC Inline coil has stock size and sounds like DVO could offer stock sizing as a possibility as well.

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    Thinking about picking up an optic as my only bike. Do you think I'll be outgunned if I use this on all trails besides super techy black diamonds? Mainly want to be able to travel with it to Sedona, Moab and the north shore

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Thinking about picking up an optic as my only bike. Do you think I'll be outgunned if I use this on all trails besides super techy black diamonds? Mainly want to be able to travel with it to Sedona, Moab and the north shore
    I've only seen Moab on videos, but it looks pretty gnarly! I'd say you will be underbiked for sure. But I suppose you can just ride the blues, if they have any.
    I live in the PNW and I'd say the same for here. Underbiked depending on where you go. It can do a lot, but it's still 125mm at the end of the day... Did you check out the review on Pinkbike? Cheers.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Windband View Post
    I've only seen Moab on videos, but it looks pretty gnarly! I'd say you will be underbiked for sure. But I suppose you can just ride the blues, if they have any.
    I live in the PNW and I'd say the same for here. Underbiked depending on where you go. It can do a lot, but it's still 125mm at the end of the day... Did you check out the review on Pinkbike? Cheers.
    Yeah their review was what got me thinking I'd be able to get away with it. If only the sight was better priced like the Optic.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Yeah their review was what got me thinking I'd be able to get away with it. If only the sight was better priced like the Optic.
    That makes sense. The Optic C2 is pretty decent build for the money.
    Maybe it's time to look elsewhere?

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    I am also turned off by $ increase and availability. Decrease supply to increase $. Nice job Norco.

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    Quote Originally Posted by telejefe View Post
    I am also turned off by $ increase and availability. Decrease supply to increase $. Nice job Norco.

    Norco's always had really limited supply of bikes. They're a pretty small manufacturers and their "hot" bikes sell out fast every year.

    They did a price change last year too on the fluids. These things happen. They aren't out to scam you, I'm guessing it has to do with dealers moreso than a decision coming from Norco themselves.



    As a sidenote, I think an Optic would work really well in Moab. The bike is going to fall behind on high speed, repeated hits. For slower tech or spread out impacts it's going to be great. There's a ton of tech climbing there too and the Optic is sick for that compared to some of these bruiser bikes.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by telejefe View Post
    I am also turned off by $ increase and availability. Decrease supply to increase $. Nice job Norco.
    Almost every bike company just had their Asian production creamed by the coronavirus shutdown. The supply for everyone is going to be more limited than usual this year.

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    Im still wondering why the shock won't work rightside up? Also - the shock comes packed full of vol bands so tuning seems to be minimized to keep the shock damped enough for the bike kinematics. If a Mara Pro, Topaz or other could fit, id be much more likely.

    I've seen bottom out pix and the space btw tire and seat tube was good - seems a little bit of long stroking could be amazing here...

  59. #59
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    Personally I'd love to experiment with a shock that used a lockout switch on an Optic. I'm guessing the shock goes upside downfor water bottle clearance reasons.

  60. #60
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    OK JTG - I can see that now! a bottle cage with multiple mounting options on spine could eleviate it - I personally use shorter bottles for some daily rides, and move to a camel for longer day so moving the bottle cage up and away from shock could still be feasible w a shock flip

    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...cts/morse-cage

    If anyone feels inclined to test the shock flip - please post the result



    IF anyone has some time and desire to flip it as a test - please post up as would be keen to see what the result is...

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    unfortinaltey the shot was just the shock and lower section of frame at BB w some bottom tube, and shock linkage - the color had me thinking it was Optic - turns out it was a Range

    Sorry for the mis-info!

    MRP doesn't make the hazard in the stock Optic size but seems the 200x45 w offset bushing could be a go. CC Inline coil has stock size and sounds like DVO could offer stock sizing as a possibility as well.
    https://www.instagram.com/p/B945FvwH...=1szmm2vdbfulr

    Definitely a coil on this one!

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by irck View Post
    That's Ben Arnott's bike, he works for Chromag but is also part of the crew that own Alba Distribution which import and service EXT shocks and Formula brakes & suspension. Hence his Optic being a parts display for all their goodies.
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  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Im still wondering why the shock won't work rightside up? Also - the shock comes packed full of vol bands so tuning seems to be minimized to keep the shock damped enough for the bike kinematics. If a Mara Pro, Topaz or other could fit, id be much more likely.

    I've seen bottom out pix and the space btw tire and seat tube was good - seems a little bit of long stroking could be amazing here...
    Shocks are being mounted with the trunion mounts at the down tube as that way there is a more stable and naturally wider mounting point. Any flex through the linkage is then onto the smaller shock shaft mounting hardware (ie cheap easily replaceable bushing or needle bearing) rather than the expensive shock body. Also puts weight lower (a small gain but it all adds up). If PUSH has finally cracked the spherical bearing that actually lasts (see their latest 11-6 mounting hardware) then this interface will only get more reliable.
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  64. #64
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    can anyone validate if the rear shock is truly a 45 stroke or a more standard 50 w a spacer? The bottom out pics show lots of room to say - run it long stroke... HA

    If anyone knows would love to have you share that

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy R View Post
    This thread needs some more build pics. Here is mine.
    So I have almost finished the build so here are my pictures:

    The full build spec:
    2020 Optic C9 XL frame (Metallic Purple & Silver Grey)
    2020 RockShox Lyrik Ultimate 29 150 mm 42 mm offset
    2020 Rockshox Super Deluxe DH Ultimate rear shock


    Canecreek eeWings 170 mm Stages Ti crankset
    Canecreek Hellbender PF92 bottom bracket
    Wolftooth Componentís CAMO spider 6mm offset, Black
    Wolftooth Componentís CAMO Elliptical Stainless 32T chaining
    OneUp Componentís Chain guide V2, Purple
    Crankbrothers Mallet E LS pedals, Black & Silver


    SRAM Eagle XO1 AXS Shifter
    SRAM Eagle XO1 AXS Rear Derailleur
    SRAM Eagle XX1 XG-1299 Rainbow 10-50T Cassette
    SRAM Eagle XX1 Rainbow 12 speed chain


    WeAreOne Composites Revolution Custom wheel set
    Front: Union Rim (30 mm inner)
    Rear: Faction Rim (27 mm inner)
    on purple Industry Nine Hydra ISO6 Boost XD hub set (32H) w torque caps and Sapim CX-Ray spokes w purple nipples.
    Continental Der Baron Projekt Protection APEX 2.4Ē front
    Continental Der Kaiser Projekt Protection APEX 2.4Ē rear
    Wolftooth Components SRAM Front Axle


    SQ-Labs 30X 12ļ sweep 45mm Carbon Riser (770 mm) bar
    9point8 Stout Stem 40 mm (0ļ rise) w Ti bolt kit
    OneUp Components grips (purple)
    SRAM Code RSC Brake set w metallic pads
    SRAM Centre line rotors 200mm front & 180mm rear with Trickstuff CNC Ti adaptors.


    Rockshox Reverb AXS A1 31.6mm x 170mm w Eagle AXS-L Remote
    SQ-Labs 611 Active S-Tube Saddle 13 cm w hard elastomer
    Vidiom Graphics Rainbow Ti bolts
    Covered by RideWrap
    Custom AXS Rainbow Metallic stickers by StikRD


    It has been fun to build and I am looking forward to a dry sunny day for my first ride.
    Happy trails
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 Optic-web-drive-side-front-brake.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-down-tube-logo-ds.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-b-rad-bag-logo.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-9point8-stem-ds.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-9point8-stem-close-up.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-ds-rear-side.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-ds-front-i9-hydra-hub-axle.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-ds-front-fork.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-ds-eewings-mallet-e-ls.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-ds-controls.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-nds-sq-lab-bar.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-nds-lyrik-fork-front-wheel.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-full-bike-side-ds.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-eewings-stages-pm-nds.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-ds-sq-lab-611-active-13-cm.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-sq-lab-611-ds-front-view.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-rear-cassette.jpg  

    2020 Optic-web-rear-brake.jpg  

    Last edited by AndrewBikeGuide; 04-03-2020 at 06:46 PM.
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  66. #66
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    Which Wolftooth bag is that? Looks slick.

  67. #67
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    @gdmack B-Rad Mini with strap and mounting plate (don't need the rail as the kit comes with 2 nylon spacers to space the plate away from the frame).

    It contains a tube, a spare derailleur hanger, tyre lever, shop cloth, medical gloves, two sterile dressing pads, 3 x BZK wipes, 3 x knuckle plasters, 4 x long zip ties 6 x medium zip ties, 2 sets of spare Code brake pads and $50 cash. So I can jump on my bike and know that I have a decent emergency kit that is clean and usable (better than the tube strapped to the frame that actually has holes in it because it has been covered in dirt and debris for the past year.)
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  68. #68
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    That is top shelf stuff there Andrew. Wow.

  69. #69
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    2020 Optic-a0d50a12-26a9-411b-86bf-f570478571c2.jpg
    Hey everyone,

    thought I would post up my Optic C2 in large, had for 2 weeks now and had about 4 hours saddle time.

    Loving the bike so far. It's my first 29er (coming from sb6c) and I am impressed at the rollover and speed compared to the 27.5 wheels. I also thought it would be a bit more of a handful in the corners, but it handles amazing. Only small negatives i can come up with for now are the bigger wheels don't feel as nimble in the air (which i kind of expected anyway) and the rear shock loses some composure on fast consecutive hits. I upgraded the fork to a 36 and chucked on some Code rsc brakes just waiting on my Renthal fatbars in gold with a 30mm rise and a wolf tooth dropper remote to finish it off for now.

    In the future I would like to upgrade the wheels to something a bit lighter and maybe get an X01 or garbaruk cassette. The bike is pretty great out of the box, but I cant help but think how it could be much snappier if it lost a few kgs haha. I usually ride Maxxis rubber (loving the Assegai Dissector combo) but the Schwalbe tyres have been pretty good as well.

    Will post up a longer, more detailed review and some more pictures after some more ride time. Hope everyone can still get some trail time with these restrictions due to COVID-19.

  70. #70
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    Hey everyone!

    Another happy Optic owner here. I have had my C2 in large for just under 5 months now. my first 29er, coming from a 2018 Carbon Rocky Mountain Altitude.

    Its hard to quantify just how good this bike is, especially as one mans super gnar is another mans smooth single track. But I have never felt under biked or out of my depth with it. It feels faster than my previous bike and strava would seem to support this.

    my bike is stock build, apart from I transferred my X01 AXS groupset (from the rocky mountain) and put a AXS revrb on it. So nicew having less cable/hoses!

    this is my only bike and I intend on riding it everywhere, from local trails, to the bike park, to the French alps (when covid is long gone).

    unless you ride big gnar on a regular basis, I cant imagine needing anymore bike.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Thinking about picking up an optic as my only bike. Do you think I'll be outgunned if I use this on all trails besides super techy black diamonds? Mainly want to be able to travel with it to Sedona, Moab and the north shore
    i think you'll be fine, it seems like a good all-rounder. i demoed a c2 on pretty tame trails and it was fun, peppy, pedaled well. when pinkbike and nsmb posted their thoughts on riding it in the pnw i figured it could do tech as well--definitely seems to have the geometry and spec for it

    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    If anyone feels inclined to test the shock flip - please post the result.
    i tried flipping mine when i was building it up. can't recall why -- maybe it was the rocker link clearance vs. the wide end of the aircan? -- but it won't work with the stock shock

  72. #72
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    I have ridden my Optic on challenging trails in Pemberton BC and I feel more confident on this bike after two rides than on my 2019 Sight despite it being an awesome bike too. The new geometry really plays to the taller rider. The inly downside I can see to the Optic is that it is so capable one might find themselves on a part of a double black trail that would be safer to deal with if the bike had a lot more travel. I am very happy that I have a Lyrik RC2 150 mm on the front of my Optic. I am going to smile a lot when riding this bike.
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  73. #73
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    has the additional 10mm travel at the front made the bike ride differently?

    I assume it has made the head angle about half a degree slacker and raised the BB a smidge?

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by v7fmp View Post
    has the additional 10mm travel at the front made the bike ride differently?

    I assume it has made the head angle about half a degree slacker and raised the BB a smidge?
    Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I was thinking of doing this myself, but thought the fork would give you that extra confidence and perhaps the 125mm out back would struggle or feel a bit out of balance. Interested to hear your opinion.

  75. #75
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    Any taller riders try out the optic yet? Iím interested but worried at 6í6 the XL will be too small.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut15 View Post
    Any taller riders try out the optic yet? Iím interested but worried at 6í6 the XL will be too small.
    I am 6'2"/ 188 cm and it is perfect for me. I don't think you are going to be running it with a 40mm stem however. I am a 33" inseam so I guess that fit is going to depend a bit on how much leg you have when pedalling. I can post a photo of my knee bar clearance later if that helps. Also as much as I am a Norco rider and this is a Norco thread for some people (my 6'5" tall mate is one of them) then a truly long bike like a Pole XL or Geometron might be the way to go to finally get a bike that actually really fits you.
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  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjames88 View Post
    Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I was thinking of doing this myself, but thought the fork would give you that extra confidence and perhaps the 125mm out back would struggle or feel a bit out of balance. Interested to hear your opinion.
    Well I didn't bother to try it with the 140 Pike as I already had a 2020 150mm Lyrik and I am a bigger rider anyway. The bike feels really balanced. I am more centred on it than on my 2019 Sight (130mm rear/ 150 mm front) and it handles tight corners better than the 2019 Sight despite the longer wheel base as one is more centred (steeper seat tube).

    The sensation (and actual fact) of being centred is the key improvement to all aspects of handling as far as I am concerned.

    For reference, I am 6'2"/ 188 cm and 205 lb/ 95 kg riding weight.
    Suspension settings (from full open ie no dampening) are:

    2020 RockShox Lyrik Ultimate 29 150 mm 42 mm offset
    1 token
    95 psi
    HSC: +1
    LSC: +3
    LSR: +7

    2020 Rockshox Super Deluxe DH Ultimate settings:
    4.5 tokens
    235 psi
    LSC: +5
    LSR: +2

    I have tried the Lyrik with no tokens but prefer it with one.
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  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    I am 6'2"/ 188 cm and it is perfect for me. I don't think you are going to be running it with a 40mm stem however. I am a 33" inseam so I guess that fit is going to depend a bit on how much leg you have when pedalling. I can post a photo of my knee bar clearance later if that helps. Also as much as I am a Norco rider and this is a Norco thread for some people (my 6'5" tall mate is one of them) then a truly long bike like a Pole XL or Geometron might be the way to go to finally get a bike that actually really fits you.
    The problem is I canít sit on or ride the optic before ordering it so itís risky. I sat on a new Santa Cruz Tallboy in XXL the other day and the size felt very good. Iím thinking any smaller than the Tallboy could be an issue. My inseam is 37Ē. Problem with the Tallboy is the spec is nothing special for the price.

  79. #79
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    6'2" on an xl optic and it fits great. there's a bit of room, but. pinkbike review noted that norco does not advise changing the stem length for the sake of fit

    every model comes with a 40mm stem that Norco says shouldnít be changed out. Instead, they want riders to use different width handlebars should they need to tweak the fit
    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/video-...rail-bike.html

    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut15 View Post
    Problem with the Tallboy is the spec is nothing special for the price.
    no one buys sc for the value. if you're looking for an xxl trailbike that'll give you bang for your buck maybe look at yt? the izzo pro is that same price as the optic c2 and the spec is comparable

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    The Trek Fuel Ex is pretty sweet, just got refreshed, super stiff for the big boys and does come XXL. The 8 is decent value too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by j-t-g View Post
    The Trek Fuel Ex is pretty sweet, just got refreshed, super stiff for the big boys and does come XXL. The 8 is decent value too.
    Yea it is sweet, the 2020 is longer and slacker and is pretty good value. Whats funny is the Tallboy in size XXL is only available in Carbon while the Fuel XXL is the only size that is not available in Carbon.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    6'2" on an xl optic and it fits great. there's a bit of room, but. pinkbike review noted that norco does not advise changing the stem length for the sake of fit



    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/video-...rail-bike.html



    no one buys sc for the value. if you're looking for an xxl trailbike that'll give you bang for your buck maybe look at yt? the izzo pro is that same price as the optic c2 and the spec is comparable
    Getting SC bikes built frame up is actually more affordable imo. Problem is that only really starts to get viable at like 5.5k.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut15 View Post
    The problem is I canít sit on or ride the optic before ordering it so itís risky. I sat on a new Santa Cruz Tallboy in XXL the other day and the size felt very good. Iím thinking any smaller than the Tallboy could be an issue. My inseam is 37Ē. Problem with the Tallboy is the spec is nothing special for the price.
    Norco recommend the 40mm stem and to an extent I agree but at 6'7" if a 50mm makes it work then it will still handle well.

    As far as the Tallboy XXL reach is only 5mm longer but effective reach relative to being centred over the bottom bracket is actually less.

    Use this post I did as a guide line for the maths: https://www.instagram.com/p/B5eNZObnltH/

    The Tallboy only has 430mm chain stays - it will suck relative to the centred position that the Norco will put you towards. I rode SCB for 13 years and I was always trying to get more forward and more centred and I am only 6'2". This being forced towards the rear of the bike is even more pronounced the taller one is. Your COG and COM are so far from the BB/ chain stay relationship that SCB (and most other brands to be fair) designed around the ubiquitous medium rider (5'8"-5'10" 75 kg male).

    I know it is hard to consider a bike without sitting on it but I bought my first Sight without a test ride and the longer chain stay was immediately apparent and a real "ah" moment in my riding life.

    As per PM I cannot post photos to you directly so here they are:
    2020 Optic-img_3684.jpg
    2020 Optic-img_3685.jpg

    Foot is placed on pedal as I would ride in clips. 170 mm cranks. I think that my femur could be two inches longer and I would still "fit"

    For reference of measurements:

    Fit Measurements:

    BB to centre saddle (170mm dropper at full extension): 802 mm
    Centre saddle (seat post up) to mid handle bar (centre of stem): 735 mm
    Centre saddle (seat post down) to mid handle bar (centre of stem): 675 mm
    Centre saddle (up) to mid end of grip: 784 mm
    BB to mid handle bar (centre of stem): 870 mm
    BB to mid end of grip: 940 mm
    Mid handle bar (end of grip) to floor: 1065 mm
    mid handle bar (centre of stem) to front axle: 725 mm
    Crown to top of stem: 180 mm
    Headset to top of stem: 41 mm
    Head tube length: 130 mm

    Obviously with wider bars (800 mm - I am running my 12ļ sweep bars trimmed to 760mm - you can triangulate the difference) and less sweep on the bars (most are 8ļ or 9ļ) you will gain a few mil on the "Centre saddle (up) to mid end of grip" dimension.

    Good luck with the fit. I think the XL Optic actually has more real world cockpit room than the XXL Tallboy and you will certainly ride far more centred on the Optic.
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    Any shorter riders on the optic? I am looking for a playful bike and was looking at a yeti sb140, but this bike intrigues me. My only hesitation is that I am on 5í4Ē and worry that I wonít be able to move it around as much as a 27.5.

    Iíve heard of butt buzzing for short people on 29ers, but figure it shouldnít ne an issue given the shorter travel?

  85. #85
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    All depends on how low you go!😮
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    So Im pretty sold that the Optic will be my next bike, probably the C2 in a large size and then swap out a few components. I was going to do a frame up build but the purple-colorway just doesnt do it for me. I think its pretty perfect for my current style of riding, and Im a big fan of the 29er relaxed geo. I might even try some bikepacking with it.

    Does anyone have any insight into Norco's model year cycle and bike availability? Im currently deployed and wont be back till the end of 2020. Id like to be able to have everything lined up to start riding it when I get back, so I see 3 potential courses of action.

    -worth it to buy one now and just have it sit in my garage back home?
    -wait, and hope that there are still some C2s in L left towards the end of the model year (maybe get one on closeout from somewhere?)
    -hope and pray that COVID-19 hasnt delayed the 2021 production year and pick up a 2021 as soon as they come out?

    Any thoughts?
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  87. #87
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    Looking at the 2020 Optic C3, wondered what peoples thoughts are on that build?
    LBS has one that I can ride around their lot in, but that's all, due to the Covid restrictions.
    Appreciate any feedback.

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    Big drawbacks to the C3 that i can see: Last year's charger 2 (not charger 2.1) damper in the pike, no carbon cranks, bargain shimano 4pot brakes, novatec hubs.

    If you planned to upgrade the wheelset anyway, then perhaps it's a worthy bargain. I test rode a C3 today; it's not a light bike but it's a lotta bike for the money.

    FWIW I couldn't discern much of a "downgrade" in the MT420 brakes versus the C2's MT-5520 (or whatever they're called). Neither have tool-free reach which in my extensive experience with shimano brakes, is important..

    I was impressed by the optic in general, it was a close call between it an an SB130

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by prae View Post
    Big drawbacks to the C3 that i can see: Last year's charger 2 (not charger 2.1) damper in the pike, no carbon cranks, bargain shimano 4pot brakes, novatec hubs.

    If you planned to upgrade the wheelset anyway, then perhaps it's a worthy bargain. I test rode a C3 today; it's not a light bike but it's a lotta bike for the money.

    FWIW I couldn't discern much of a "downgrade" in the MT420 brakes versus the C2's MT-5520 (or whatever they're called). Neither have tool-free reach which in my extensive experience with shimano brakes, is important..

    I was impressed by the optic in general, it was a close call between it an an SB130
    Thanks for the intel.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-B-R View Post
    Looking at the 2020 Optic C3, wondered what peoples thoughts are on that build?
    LBS has one that I can ride around their lot in, but that's all, due to the Covid restrictions.
    Appreciate any feedback.
    I bought my C3 and have since replaced:
    Cranks-SRAM XO
    Bars/Stem-One Up Components
    Brakes-XT 4 piston
    Wheels-WR1 with I9 Hydra
    Seat
    Post-One Up Components
    Forkó-? I hate this Pike. My hands go numb pedaling it 10 mins. Iíve tried 3 bars.
    Drive train- XT 12 speed

    I bought this bike not knowing if Iíd like it so i went bottom shelf build. I could not order frame only as i just cannot accept that one and only color option. Plus the C3 was the best color for me. I donít like buying full built bikes but i did this time and now have just the fork and shock as original. Wheels are boat anchors.

    Needless to say, it is worth the parting out and putting on your own parts. This bike is fun.

    BTW, if anyone has any suggestions on Pike and why itís harsh and painful, let me know. Iím thinking about getting a Fox 34 140mm performance elite.

    I donít want to visit the fork forum as it is a Sh*t show with all the arguing and 🔥.

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    Thanks.I agree the other colours are pretty bad.
    After the wheel change, do you find the weight ok?
    How much do you think you shaved off the weight with your new wheels?

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-B-R View Post
    Thanks.I agree the other colours are pretty bad.
    After the wheel change, do you find the weight ok?
    How much do you think you shaved off the weight with your new wheels?
    Wheels havenít been put on yet. Iíll let you know... I think bike weighed around 32.5lbs stock. Although weight of this bike is not much an issue. I was always going to upgrade wheels to carbon. I changed tires out and when i did, i noticed how heavy those wheels were so i decided to stiffen up and decrease some rolling weight.

    I do not like the Hans Dampf tire for my trails. So if someone wants a new tire at good deal, Iíd consider.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    I bought my C3 and have since replaced:
    Cranks-SRAM XO
    Bars/Stem-One Up Components
    Brakes-XT 4 piston
    Wheels-WR1 with I9 Hydra
    Seat
    Post-One Up Components
    Forkó-? I hate this Pike. My hands go numb pedaling it 10 mins. Iíve tried 3 bars.
    Drive train- XT 12 speed

    I bought this bike not knowing if Iíd like it so i went bottom shelf build. I could not order frame only as i just cannot accept that one and only color option. Plus the C3 was the best color for me. I donít like buying full built bikes but i did this time and now have just the fork and shock as original. Wheels are boat anchors.

    Needless to say, it is worth the parting out and putting on your own parts. This bike is fun.

    BTW, if anyone has any suggestions on Pike and why itís harsh and painful, let me know. Iím thinking about getting a Fox 34 140mm performance elite.

    I donít want to visit the fork forum as it is a Sh*t show with all the arguing and 🔥.
    I'm also on a C3 that I've had about a month now. I can agree with most of the things you've replaced. I've been far from rough on it and the wheels already have a slight wobble to them, the seat post is okay but not the smoothest, the seat is okay at best, and the brakes have been loud/weak. That said, the bike is an absolute blast. It's my first 29er and I'm shocked at how playful, yet capable it is. I've had 140-160mm rear travel bikes as my last 3 bikes and this feels no less capable. The ride is definitely what I consider "sporty", not plush by any means. Easily top 2 if not favorite bike I've ever had after just a month.

    Have you tried Norco's Ride Aligned setup? I found the fork setup was very accurate for me and I'm liking it so far.

    Brakes may become a priority soon. What all was involved in the brake swap? Did you replace rotors/pads/calipers/everything?

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBCNY View Post
    I'm also on a C3 that I've had about a month now. I can agree with most of the things you've replaced. I've been far from rough on it and the wheels already have a slight wobble to them, the seat post is okay but not the smoothest, the seat is okay at best, and the brakes have been loud/weak. That said, the bike is an absolute blast. It's my first 29er and I'm shocked at how playful, yet capable it is. I've had 140-160mm rear travel bikes as my last 3 bikes and this feels no less capable. The ride is definitely what I consider "sporty", not plush by any means. Easily top 2 if not favorite bike I've ever had after just a month.

    Have you tried Norco's Ride Aligned setup? I found the fork setup was very accurate for me and I'm liking it so far.

    Brakes may become a priority soon. What all was involved in the brake swap? Did you replace rotors/pads/calipers/everything?
    Yes, I set it up according to their RA. The fork is just making my hands numb and i know itís not the bars cuz they are bars Iíve used on other bikes. Maybe itís the grips? I kept those on....?
    I put on new brakes including calipers levers & pads. When i put my other wheels on this week, Iím going to go 203 front and 180 in rear. Ice tech.

    This was my first 29r too. Hell, i never rode one once prior to buying. I didnít even demo this bike. Rolled the dice and came up happy. I have a 155mm Warden that i havenít ridden once since i got the optic.

  95. #95
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    My C2 in Large. a few upgrades from standard build.

    AXS X01 drivetrain,
    AXS reverb,
    Zipp 3Zero Moto wheels,
    Shimano Ice-Tec rotors,
    DMR Deathgrips,
    Specialized Saddle,
    Nukeproof Horizon flat pedals

    2020 Optic-p6pb18633178.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 Optic-img_0713.jpg  


  96. #96
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    My LBS has a left over new 2019 Optic C2, is this radically different from the 2020?
    The price is right...

  97. #97
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    yup, totally different beasts!

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    Thanks, that's what I thought, given the price.Your right looks great btw!

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by v7fmp View Post
    My C2 in Large. a few upgrades from standard build.

    AXS X01 drivetrain,
    AXS reverb

    Click image for larger version. 

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    God I am so tempted to spend $ and get AXS....at least seat post.

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by v7fmp View Post
    My C2 in Large. a few upgrades from standard build.

    AXS X01 drivetrain,
    AXS reverb,
    Zipp 3Zero Moto wheels,
    Shimano Ice-Tec rotors,
    DMR Deathgrips,
    Specialized Saddle,
    Nukeproof Horizon flat pedals

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did you see a notable improvement with the Ice-Tec rotors? And did you swap pads? As noted above, brakes are definitely my biggest complaint with my Optic C3 and don't want to drop $300+ to upgrade if there's a cheap fix.

  101. #101
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    The best thing you can do to improve Shimano brakes is add rotors of at least SLX level (any of them with the separate black core will do the trick) and metallic finned pads. You can even get those shitty no brand, single piston brakes to work pretty damn well with these two changes.

    RT66's are a blight on humanity. Put them on the train tracks and get some proper rotors and pads.

    I am 220 pounds without gear and I live in the land of hills. Fat boy knows what he's talking about when it comes to brake performance.

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    God I am so tempted to spend $ and get AXS....at least seat post.
    although the AXS was a hefty investment, it has been utterly flawless over the last 12 months I have owned it. I don't think I will ever go back to cable operated gears or seatpost. I love the lack of cables.

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBCNY View Post
    Did you see a notable improvement with the Ice-Tec rotors? And did you swap pads? As noted above, brakes are definitely my biggest complaint with my Optic C3 and don't want to drop $300+ to upgrade if there's a cheap fix.
    to be fair, I didn't have too much issue with the resin only rotors, but there does feel like more bite with the new rotors. Plus it gives me the option to run metallic pads etc in future.

    I would be aware that I believe the lower end 4 pot shimano brakes wont accept finned pads. so careful when making any purchases!

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    Maybe itís the grips? I kept those on....?
    i binned the grips after the first ride. my hands didn't get along with them at all. only change i've made to my c2 other than the tires

    interesting that so many folks have bought full bikes and then immediately spent thousands on upgrades. one of the selling points for the c2, to me, was that there was virtually nothing in the spec that needed immediate replacement. drive train is functional; hubs and rims are bombproof (though i would expect any factory built wheelset to need occasional truing, maybe a de- and re- this winter); suspension is capable; brakes feel fine; i'll swap the rotors and pads before i head to bc later this summer, but other than that i'll wait until things break, i think, before replacing anything else. though i have been eyeing prettier stems

  105. #105
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    the C2 is a great build out of the box, as you say, its a solid bike.

    For me personally, I had the AXS groupset on my previous bike, so was a no-brainer to swap it over. The AXS dropper was a treat and strictly not necessary.

    Then the zipp wheels weren't even on the radar, but a set came up at a price too good to pass up.

    Had the above not happened, I don't think I would have changed anything on the bike really.

    oh... and the optic isnt available as a frame only option in the UK (or at least it wasnt when i bought mine)

  106. #106
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    Reading this thread makes me wonder if I should go for the C2 build over the C3.
    The difference is 1000 CDN so wonder if that spread is worth it?
    Anyone here who was in my position?

  107. #107
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    when I bought mine I looked at both. The colour of the C3 was a bit more me, but the spec of the C2 was that much better, it was worth the extra £600 it is in the UK.

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    i binned the grips after the first ride. my hands didn't get along with them at all. only change i've made to my c2 other than the tires

    interesting that so many folks have bought full bikes and then immediately spent thousands on upgrades. one of the selling points for the c2, to me, was that there was virtually nothing in the spec that needed immediate replacement. drive train is functional; hubs and rims are bombproof (though i would expect any factory built wheelset to need occasional truing, maybe a de- and re- this winter); suspension is capable; brakes feel fine; i'll swap the rotors and pads before i head to bc later this summer, but other than that i'll wait until things break, i think, before replacing anything else. though i have been eyeing prettier stems
    Pretty much every mountain biker can settle on a ďcapableĒ bike.... I could have bought the C2 and the only thing i wouldnít change compared to my C3 are the cranks and possibly the plus Pike. So, now Iím getting my components i want, in a color i like. This sport we all partake in costs money

  109. #109
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    Pulled the trigger today and looking forward to picking up my 2020 C3 this weekend.
    My first FS, so I am pretty stoked!

  110. #110
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    so i've had maybe 10 rides on my c2 so far, and i'm very happy with it, but for one thing

    when i demoed one last fall, the rear end felt both supple over small stuff and very efficient when pedalling -- it was, to me, one of the bikes standout features, which i credited to the shock spec and tune, and the suspension design

    since i've been riding it on my home trails, which feature a lot of roots, i've found the rear end to be, if anything, quite harsh, at least early in its travel, like the shock is overdamped. i've only found one review that seems to agree with this assessment:

    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bi...tic-c3-review/

    anyone finding this with their optic? i'm going to borrow my lbs' shockwiz to get a second assessment, but my experiences have me wondering how the bike would perform with a bit lower compression tune. the shock says the base tune is ML; i'm thinking that's medium compression, low rebound

  111. #111
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    What is your height, weight, frame size?
    What tyres and tyre pressures are you running on what inner width rims?
    Clips or flat pedals?
    Centred or rear weighted riding style?

    First up you do know that it comes stock rammed with the max compliment of volume spacers (4.5)?

    I am on an XL (posted somewhere earlier), 98 kg riding weight, running 245 psi for 30% sag, LSC: +5, LSR: +2 (from open/ fast).
    Der Baron Projekt 2.4" on We Are One Union front (30mm inner) 22 psi and Faction rear (27mm inner - prefer the slightly rounder profile this gives the rear tyre) 24.5 psi.

    Clips, centred stance, ride 10-15 hrs per week as a minimum and normally 15-20 hrs during late spring, summer and early autumn (professional guide). I found that the rear is unusually plush.

    I haven't used the ShockWiz on the Optic as I found that it was so easy to set up and I was able to take close to 1:30 off my normally 11 minute long favourite Black trail in Pemberton whilst using about the same level of concentration and commitment, which I had previously been riding on my 2019 Sight (130/ 150).

    Let me know your dets above and I'll see how I can help.
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  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    What is your height, weight, frame size?
    What tyres and tyre pressures are you running on what inner width rims?
    Clips or flat pedals?
    Centred or rear weighted riding style?
    6'2", 170lbs, on an xl
    2.6" butcher 23 psi / 2.35 minion ss 25 psi (tubeless) on stock (flow d) rims
    clips
    centered

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    First up you do know that it comes stock rammed with the max compliment of volume spacers (4.5)?
    i did not. wtf?!

    can't recall what pressure i'm running in the shock but sag is 30%, rebound is dialled and and compression is full open

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    Let me know your dets above and I'll see how I can help.
    let me know if you have any thoughts. now that i know the can is packed with spacers i'm doubly curious to mess with it

    the bike is fast, not doubt; it's just not very comfortable (yet)

    what's your favourite trail in pemby? i've always been partial to rusty trombone

  113. #113
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    Iíve found the settings on Norcoís site (Ride Align?) quite good as a start. I ride a large, riding weight of 177 (170-ish naked). Try to ride centered but probably still a little towards the back. Use flat pedals. Tires are 23 and 26psi in Maxxis 2.5 WT. My rear shock settings are 206 psi (200 was recommended). LSC full open (8 clicks?). Rebound 5 clicks from closed and thinking about trying 4. Norcoís site recommends 6 and it felt good jumping but I had the bike kick me forward a few times after deep hard compressions. (Almost had a bad OTB.) After slowing down one click itís definitely better and smoother all around. My point being, maybe your rebound is slightly too fast and causing the harshness?

    Edit/update: Meant to also say that slowing down the rebound also made if feel better in the high speed chunk, which is why Iím suggesting maybe itís a little too fast.

    ShockWiz results with my settings:
    2020 Optic-b96e592f-0c6e-42df-a7aa-c27649cd5aa5.jpg
    Last edited by kdiff; 05-18-2020 at 01:57 PM.

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    so i've had maybe 10 rides on my c2 so far, and i'm very happy with it, but for one thing

    when i demoed one last fall, the rear end felt both supple over small stuff and very efficient when pedalling -- it was, to me, one of the bikes standout features, which i credited to the shock spec and tune, and the suspension design

    since i've been riding it on my home trails, which feature a lot of roots, i've found the rear end to be, if anything, quite harsh, at least early in its travel, like the shock is overdamped. i've only found one review that seems to agree with this assessment:

    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bi...tic-c3-review/

    anyone finding this with their optic? i'm going to borrow my lbs' shockwiz to get a second assessment, but my experiences have me wondering how the bike would perform with a bit lower compression tune. the shock says the base tune is ML; i'm thinking that's medium compression, low rebound
    Do the 50 hr service on the shock, makes a massive difference.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-B-R View Post
    Thanks.I agree the other colours are pretty bad.
    After the wheel change, do you find the weight ok?
    How much do you think you shaved off the weight with your new wheels?
    Took forever to reply. Bike weighs just under 31lbs. My tires are beefy (e13).
    Only C3 on this bike is fork, shock, and frame.
    2020 Optic-660881ba-3d85-4a9b-9478-27ef614a53bb.jpg2020 Optic-07a5d287-5419-49ec-854a-624c41c38771.jpg

  116. #116
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    How does the Optic climb? Tempted to get one over a SB100 because the Optic looks way more fun on the descents but I still want a good climber.

  117. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    How does the Optic climb? Tempted to get one over a SB100 because the Optic looks way more fun on the descents but I still want a good climber.
    The Optic climbs pretty good, but I think the SB100 would be a much better climber if you went for a light weight build. I would more compare the Sb130 to the Optic in terms of an aggressive trail bike

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjames88 View Post
    The Optic climbs pretty good, but I think the SB100 would be a much better climber if you went for a light weight build. I would more compare the Sb130 to the Optic in terms of an aggressive trail bike
    Would I be too bored on the Optic then if I took it on flatter trails? I don't want to give up the aggressive geo for when things actually do go downhill. I already have a Firebird 29 so realistically the SB100 would be a better complement to it but the Optic just looks so much more fun.

  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Would I be too bored on the Optic then if I took it on flatter trails? I don't want to give up the aggressive geo for when things actually do go downhill
    It depends on your local trails or where you will be riding the most. My local track has plenty of climbing with only short descents and I still really enjoy riding the Optic. I find myself popping off little features everywhere. Itís great fun to ride and still pedals pretty well.

    If you can get yourself a demo thatís the best way to see what you like the most. Also the Yeti will be much more expensive if price is an issue

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    Yeah unfortunately, my local norco deal only does parking lot demos and due to covid 19 Norcos factory demo tour is postponed

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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    How does the Optic climb? Tempted to get one over a SB100 because the Optic looks way more fun on the descents but I still want a good climber.
    It's a good climber. And it is an awesome bike. My build is more at the "indestructible" end of the build spectrum and it is still 31 lbs for an XL.

    It is more playful and poppy than my 2019 Sight (and my 2020 Sight) and a great bike if 125/140 (or 150 front - I'm running a 150mm Lyrik on mine) is enough for your local trails.
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  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Yeah unfortunately, my local norco deal only does parking lot demos and due to covid 19 Norcos factory demo tour is postponed
    Take the leap, you won't regret it!
    You don't earn PB bike of the year without being a solid performer.I am loving mine.
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  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Yeah unfortunately, my local norco deal only does parking lot demos and due to covid 19 Norcos factory demo tour is postponed
    I bought mine having never seen one but I knew it had the progression in design that would be an improvement over my 2019 Sight. It is awesome.
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  124. #124
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    Love mine. Never rode a Norco nor a 29r prior to buying. Didnít ride my Knolly Warden once in the 2 mos i bought it... sold Warden last week. Never considered another short travel aggressive geo bike. Nice making the right choice.

  125. #125
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    You guys may want check all of the water/tool bolt rivets on your frame when first getting your bike. The two tool bolt rivets were loose on my frame when I first got the bike. Luckily I bought the frame locally and the LBS was good about fixing it quickly. Today my water bottle cage was flopping back & forth on my ride, those rivets are now loosening. (In hindsight I now realize what I thought was weird flex because of having the OneUp pump mount at the bottle cage, same as Andrew, was actually the rivets starting to slowly loosen.) Taking it to the LBS later this week to get looked at.

    I love how the bike rides but not totally stoked on my first experience with Norco given the little issues Iíve encountered. (The frame arrived missing some of the cable grommets. Cable rattling, though I expected this to some extent, just not used to it because my other bikes have internal cable tubes/routing.)

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    How does the Optic climb? Tempted to get one over a SB100 because the Optic looks way more fun on the descents but I still want a good climber.
    It's not going to climb anything like an SB100. I came off an Intense and it's chalk and cheese, the Optic is a much slower bike uphill and feels sluggish to pedal.
    To be honest it's not really the type of bike that fits in the 125mm travel range like many others, a better comparison to the SB100 would be Revolver. The Optic rides more like a 140mm bike and it's far more capable downhill than my previous 150mm bikes (Carbine 275) but the weight is certainly a hindrance when climbing.
    After a few months I have got used to dragging the weight around and changing my climbing style, but I got close to selling the bike when I first got it because it 'feels' slow up hill.
    That all sounds pretty negative, but the Optic is as close as I've ever come to having just one bike for everything which is a real achievement because I've usually got at least three at any given time for different things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    It's not going to climb anything like an SB100. I came off an Intense and it's chalk and cheese, the Optic is a much slower bike uphill and feels sluggish to pedal.
    To be honest it's not really the type of bike that fits in the 125mm travel range like many others, a better comparison to the SB100 would be Revolver. The Optic rides more like a 140mm bike and it's far more capable downhill than my previous 150mm bikes (Carbine 275) but the weight is certainly a hindrance when climbing.
    After a few months I have got used to dragging the weight around and changing my climbing style, but I got close to selling the bike when I first got it because it 'feels' slow up hill.
    That all sounds pretty negative, but the Optic is as close as I've ever come to having just one bike for everything which is a real achievement because I've usually got at least three at any given time for different things.
    I completely agree with what you are saying. I thought 29er with 125mm would absolutely fly up the climbs. It still climbs good and has a great pedalling position, but for me itís definitely not as rapid as I expected.

    I am looking into some carbon wheels and after reading some other build threads it seems losing a good 500g from the wheels seems to help make the bike a lot more snappy. If any one with carbon or lighter wheel upgrade has any comments I would love to hear your thoughts.

    Had some good shuttles this weekend gone on a local DH track and I was so suprised at how well the bike handled a super rocky and rough track. Norco got the descending part down pact, which also brings me to my other concern with this bike.

    Why only 125mm travel!! The fluid and the revolver 120 have 120mm rear travel. Itís like the Optic is begging for 130-135mm rear travel. In my opinion it would be absolutely spot on with the extra for those slightly tougher tracks without giving up to much on the climbs or getting to close to the Sights territory

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    I've got carbon wheels on mine and it certainly made it less sluggish. I've got LB 35mm wide I think the set is about 1600g, HD up front and Minion SS at the back.
    The climbing traction is so good on these that I find the Minion SS is not a problem, not great for braking but rolls well and has good cornering knobs.
    The other thing that I did early on was do the 50hr service on the shock and the lowers on the fork, made it heaps smoother since they seemed to be out of lube at Rockshox when my stuff was built.

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    Ahh nice. Have the lb wheels had any issues? I have been considering these as well because they are so affordable compared to the other 3 grand wheels on the market haha.

    I was looking at putting a rock razor on the back of mine to see if that helped, but I think itís more the heavy wheels that make it a tad sluggish

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    I've had 4 sets of LB wheels and done maybe 15,000km on them without any issues. I only buy the rim though and get them built by my local rim guru which may make a difference.
    I've seen plenty of broken Enve's so it's more about understanding the limitations of carbon wheels rather than where they are made. If you are planning to mow through rock gardens with 17psi in the tyres, then I would reconsider carbon wheels as a viable option.

  131. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    Do the 50 hr service on the shock, makes a massive difference.
    Were you able to do the service without needing the RockShox bearing/bushing tool? I watched the service video and they say you need it but typically one can push everything out by hand except for the eyelet bushings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    It's not going to climb anything like an SB100. I came off an Intense and it's chalk and cheese, the Optic is a much slower bike uphill and feels sluggish to pedal.
    To be honest it's not really the type of bike that fits in the 125mm travel range like many others, a better comparison to the SB100 would be Revolver. The Optic rides more like a 140mm bike and it's far more capable downhill than my previous 150mm bikes (Carbine 275) but the weight is certainly a hindrance when climbing.
    After a few months I have got used to dragging the weight around and changing my climbing style, but I got close to selling the bike when I first got it because it 'feels' slow up hill.
    That all sounds pretty negative, but the Optic is as close as I've ever come to having just one bike for everything which is a real achievement because I've usually got at least three at any given time for different things.
    Wow you're the first person I've seen be pretty negative on how it climbs, hope I don't regret my new purchase lol

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    I have a set of Bontrager Line Pro 30 Carbon wheels in combination with SE4s on my 2020 Norco Optic C3. It climbs at least as good as my 2019 Remedy 9.8 did.




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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Wow you're the first person I've seen be pretty negative on how it climbs, hope I don't regret my new purchase lol
    It's easy to look at this bike and think it's a 125mm travel 29er so it should climb nearly as well as a proper XC bike, it does not.
    Once you get your head around that it's fine, just don't expect to set any KOM's going uphill.

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    Quote Originally Posted by petejupp View Post
    Great review, thanks for posting.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    It's easy to look at this bike and think it's a 125mm travel 29er so it should climb nearly as well as a proper XC bike, it does not.
    Once you get your head around that it's fine, just don't expect to set any KOM's going uphill.
    Hm... I donīt agree. I think everyone whoīs interested in the Optic should know in the meantime that itīs not an XC bike (anymore). I mean: the internet is quite full with reviews of this bike...

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    has anyone changed their stem?

    I would like something a bit more jazzy, but am struggling to find many options in a 45mm length.....

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    We Are One Da Package (essentially a 77designz/ Intend Grace stem - ie awesome): https://www.weareonecomposites.com/s...da-package-510

    I'm running the 9point8 Stout in 40mm: https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?rou...product_id=229
    and it is awesome (strong, light and kind of well priced).

    The bike handles beautifully (so unless you are really maxing your reach/ down sizing your frame size or exactly the height/ reach ratio for your frame size you probably won't notice it). I also tried the 30mm which was too short. I could run the 50mm and be really happy but I don't need the extra reach and the handling felt nearly identical.
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    Cool, thanks for the links, I will take a look.

    Interesting to know the 40mm doesn't mess with the handling, so maybe I will go down that avenue?!

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    We Are One Da Package (essentially a 77designz/ Intend Grace stem - ie awesome): https://www.weareonecomposites.com/s...da-package-510

    I'm running the 9point8 Stout in 40mm: https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?rou...product_id=229
    and it is awesome (strong, light and kind of well priced).

    The bike handles beautifully (so unless you are really maxing your reach/ down sizing your frame size or exactly the height/ reach ratio for your frame size you probably won't notice it). I also tried the 30mm which was too short. I could run the 50mm and be really happy but I don't need the extra reach and the handling felt nearly identical.
    Do you think it'd be better to size up to a 50mm stem or size down to a 35mm? Thinking about getting the OneUp bar and stem combo.

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Do you think it'd be better to size up to a 50mm stem or size down to a 35mm? Thinking about getting the OneUp bar and stem combo.
    I would go to a good shop and ask them to fit both. You don't really need to ride it, just remove your entire bar/ stem/ control assembly, pad it and zip tie it to your fork so it is out of the way and not banging on your stanchions.

    I really like their expanding wedge system so if you want to run the tool in the steerer you are not voiding your fork warranty.

    Get them to fit the 35 mm combo, try it seated and standing
    Fit the 50mm combo and again try it seated and standing.

    What ever feels best in the shop is probably going to translate to feeling better on 1-2 hr (or longer) rides.

    I suspect that the 50mm (maybe with an extra 5mm spacer under the stem which will bring the effective reach back about 3mm) will feel better.

    There is quite a lot of interactions in the cockpit to get correct fit.

    Raising stack height with the stem or stem spacers (ie along the plane of the steerer) reduces reach because as you get higher the grips are coming back towards you.

    You can change rise but maintain reach by using a riser bar with a higher rise.

    A wider bar effectively moves your chest further forward (as your hands spread out).

    All very interesting.
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    I've been riding the optic for 20 ish rides in Golden, BC and here are my thoughts.

    I ordered the C2 in the women's build (which is exactly the same except colour so why is it even called women's!?!?!) in January and am still waiting for it to show up due to shipping issues. Should be next week. Since I had already sold my previous bike my shop has been kind enough to let me ride their rentals. So I was on a c3 small for a bit and am now on a c3 medium. I'm 5'5 and while I could have made the small work, the medium feels better. I especially noticed the increased stability on fast downhills, and while it's slightly less nimble in tight corners I'll get used to it. I'm coming off of a 2015 transition Scout which happened to have 140/125 travel as well and was quite slack for its time. So the optic doesn't feel all that different other than the bigger wheels.

    I have never ridden a true xc bike but to me the optic climbs incredibly well. I'm not at all in mid-summer fitness yet and have had lots of PR's on the climbs (and on the downhills!).

    When it's time to go down, the optic accelerates and holds its speed. I love it on smooth bermy trails best but it's been super fun in more technical terrain too.

    The specs on the c3 are fine but I'm looking forward to the better wheels and hubs, gx drivetrain and carbon cranks (though I'm not sure how big a difference they will make!)

    I am shocked to see how many people buy the bike and seem to upgrade everything. I've had zero issues with anything. The brakes are great for me (Im a lighter rider) and the post is smooth and responsive. I don't plan on upgrading anything until I need to or possibly bars and grips just for looks.

    Are people running the optic tubeless? I'm thinking of trying it, thoughts?

    Let me know if you have any questions! Happy to help!

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    Glad you are having a good time. I take it you went with the 'female' version of the bike due to being a better colour?

    Defo run tubeless, its a no brainer.

    As for the upgrading, I don't think anyone has any issues with the factory builds, its just nice to tinker, spend, add bling if your budget allows!

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by skibunnie2 View Post
    I've been riding the optic for 20 ish rides in Golden, BC and here are my thoughts.

    I ordered the C2 in the women's build (which is exactly the same except colour so why is it even called women's!?!?!) in January and am still waiting for it to show up due to shipping issues. Should be next week. Since I had already sold my previous bike my shop has been kind enough to let me ride their rentals. So I was on a c3 small for a bit and am now on a c3 medium. I'm 5'5 and while I could have made the small work, the medium feels better. I especially noticed the increased stability on fast downhills, and while it's slightly less nimble in tight corners I'll get used to it. I'm coming off of a 2015 transition Scout which happened to have 140/125 travel as well and was quite slack for its time. So the optic doesn't feel all that different other than the bigger wheels.

    The women's build does ship with a cut out (women's?) saddle and slimmer model grips - although this season Norco have been a bit odd/ generous and shipped the build kits with both saddles and weirdly a thread fit bottom bracket as well

    I have never ridden a true xc bike but to me the optic climbs incredibly well. I'm not at all in mid-summer fitness yet and have had lots of PR's on the climbs (and on the downhills!).

    When it's time to go down, the optic accelerates and holds its speed. I love it on smooth bermy trails best but it's been super fun in more technical terrain too.

    I agree that it is a great trail bike

    The specs on the c3 are fine but I'm looking forward to the better wheels and hubs, gx drivetrain and carbon cranks (though I'm not sure how big a difference they will make!)

    Lighter wheels are immediately noticeable hence running tubeless and choosing a tyre type/ weight that suits your size and riding style eg lots of riders will say that one has to run DD or DH tyres (Maxxis) to avoid punctures/ tyre roll but lighter and smoother riders can run lighter casings quite safely

    I am shocked to see how many people buy the bike and seem to upgrade everything. I've had zero issues with anything. The brakes are great for me (Im a lighter rider) and the post is smooth and responsive. I don't plan on upgrading anything until I need to or possibly bars and grips just for looks.

    As a lighter rider I doubt that you will enjoy the overly stiff 35mm handlebar, a good upgrade would be to a 31.8mm system, a carbon riser bar or something like the OneUp bar which gives better trail dampening and a better ride experience overall

    Are people running the optic tubeless? I'm thinking of trying it, thoughts?

    Always, tubes are something that one fits after a horrible puncture that a plug cannot seal. Again as a lighter rider you will benefit from lower pressures giving you more grip

    Let me know if you have any questions! Happy to help!
    And ask your shop to install your internal hose and cables with this: https://jagwire.com/products/small-p...housing-damper
    or the rattling sound will be quite distracting whilst riding.
    Happy trails
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    Yes I picked it for the colour. My scout that I rode for 5 years was neon yellow so I thought it would be nice to have a change. Any tips on going tubeless? The shop says the bike comes with tubes already installed. Any other must-dos? I have a ridewrap to install and a wolftooth bag already.

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    Thanks! On the 2 c3's that I've ridden there was no rattling at all... I wonder if my shop already does something to prevent it?

    They also told me the men's and women's versions were identical other than colour. I even asked about the saddle and they said it was the same. Will be interesting to see what comes in the box!

    And thanks for the recommendation on the bar. I was looking at the oneup but will run the stock version for a while to see how it feels. I have been getting some hand and wrist aches but figured it's just from early season biking and that I'll strengthen them as the season progresses.

    If I get a smaller diameter bar does that mean a bunch of other upgrades to make it fit? Thanks for the advice!

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by skibunnie2 View Post
    Yes I picked it for the colour. My scout that I rode for 5 years was neon yellow so I thought it would be nice to have a change. Any tips on going tubeless? The shop says the bike comes with tubes already installed. Any other must-dos? I have a ridewrap to install and a wolftooth bag already.
    Going tubeless was really easy on this bike. The stans wheels come pre taped, so itís just a matter of taking the tubes out and replacing them with some tubeless valves and some sealant and re-inflating. Both front and rear inflated with just a normal floor pump.

    It was probably the easiest tubeless conversion I have done to date because some tyres can be a bit stubborn. If you arenít comfortable doing it, I am sure your bike shop will be able to help you out.

    If you want to change back to 31.8 bar you will need to change your stem back to the smaller diameter and then you will be good to go. I swapped my bars out to renthal 35ís with a 30mm rise and I am pretty happy with them on the stock stem.

  149. #149
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    @skibunnie2 yes if you change the bar away from 35mm to 31.8mm then you will need to change the stem as well.

    Contact points are the four most important things on a modern bike. Grips, pedals and saddle contacting the rider and tyres contacting the ground.

    Hand and wrist aches are because the bar is too stiff, very few companies make a 35mm bar that is not too stiff for anything other than the really large or professional level rider. One of the advantages to a carbon bar is that it has a natural vibration dampening quality to it.

    The biggest issue with the modern riser bar is that the sweep angle is often determined by what encourages the best neutral or attack arm position when descending. Which is great, for the 10 minutes one is riding down hill or down the trail but not much good for the hour or two that one is climbing.

    There is also the factor of wrist angle. A lot of bars use 8ļ back sweep which places a lot of pressure on the ulna pad of the hand and the outside of the wrist.

    Better bars use 9ļ and the one degree does make a difference.

    PNW make a bar that is 10ļ which is where you really feel a difference.

    SQ-Labs take the whole ergonomics to the next level and make bars with 12ļ and 16ļ, as well as a range of grips that reduce the pressure on the ulna area.

    Ergon GE1 Slim grips also help in this area but there is only so much one can do with a grip.

    Happy to chat bike fit for hours but don't want to bore or overwhelm you.
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  150. #150
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    Re tubeless the rims will be sealed with a good tape so you just need tubeless valves and sealant. Stans seem to be as reliable as any brand as they have been in the game the longest.

    Use a spray bottle with soapy water when re-installing the tyres (or buy a bottle of the Schwalbe tyre lube - it will last for years) as the most common issue is the tyre bead pulling the tubeless tape off the rim bed during install and then the air leaks under the tape and out of the spoke nipple holes and valve stem hole.
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  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    @skibunnie2 yes if you change the bar away from 35mm to 31.8mm then you will need to change the stem as well.

    Contact points are the four most important things on a modern bike. Grips, pedals and saddle contacting the rider and tyres contacting the ground.

    Hand and wrist aches are because the bar is too stiff, very few companies make a 35mm bar that is not too stiff for anything other than the really large or professional level rider. One of the advantages to a carbon bar is that it has a natural vibration dampening quality to it.

    The biggest issue with the modern riser bar is that the sweep angle is often determined by what encourages the best neutral or attack arm position when descending. Which is great, for the 10 minutes one is riding down hill or down the trail but not much good for the hour or two that one is climbing.

    There is also the factor of wrist angle. A lot of bars use 8ļ back sweep which places a lot of pressure on the ulna pad of the hand and the outside of the wrist.

    Better bars use 9ļ and the one degree does make a difference.

    PNW make a bar that is 10ļ which is where you really feel a difference.

    SQ-Labs take the whole ergonomics to the next level and make bars with 12ļ and 16ļ, as well as a range of grips that reduce the pressure on the ulna area.

    Ergon GE1 Slim grips also help in this area but there is only so much one can do with a grip.

    Happy to chat bike fit for hours but don't want to bore or overwhelm you.
    This is interesting, thanks. I'm leaning towards the oneup carbon bar with 20mm rise. It has great reviews and I like to support local when I can. I'm also curious about oval chainrings and am looking at the oneup version. For $50 it seems like it's worth checking out.

    I have a kinesiology background and am interested in the ergonomics and biomechanics and efficiency of all of the sports I do.

    If I try going tubeless myself, would you recommend using a syringe to put the sealant in? It seems like a cleaner way to do it.

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    I'm completely the opposite...find a bar with a lot of backsweep very uncomfortable. I only ride renthal, 7 degree back sweep. Have tried a few 9 degree backsweep bars but got rid of them pretty quick.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfboy View Post
    I'm completely the opposite...find a bar with a lot of backsweep very uncomfortable. I only ride renthal, 7 degree back sweep. Have tried a few 9 degree backsweep bars but got rid of them pretty quick.
    Everyone's hands and wrists are different so it is good that there is a lot of variety. I coach full time and therefore see a lot of riders with bikes that are poorly fitted to them. Number one mistake being bars that are too wide because someone said that 800 mm was better or cool.
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    Interesting, I can't stand 35mm carbon bars because in my experience they're ALL way too stiff despite the dampening properties of carbon. 35mm alloy bars seem less stiff to me.

    I haven't tried anything like the NEXT 35 which might be less stiff, but anything else I've sat on hasn't been awesome.

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by j-t-g View Post
    Interesting, I can't stand 35mm carbon bars because in my experience they're ALL way too stiff despite the dampening properties of carbon. 35mm alloy bars seem less stiff to me.

    I haven't tried anything like the NEXT 35 which might be less stiff, but anything else I've sat on hasn't been awesome.
    I agree, I haven't found a 35mm that works except the Da Package by We Are One. I am also at the end of the spectrum that 800mm x 35mm bars are supposedly designed for (6'2" & 98 kg riding weight) - but they still don't work for me.

    I feel that most manufacturers have got this 35mm format totally wrong ie too stiff and no benefit over a 31.8mm system. The theory that using a larger diameter tube allows the same or greater strength at a lighter weight seems to lose something in the execution. A certain well known big name brand is infamous for how easily their 35mm bars snap after heavy use or a crash.

    I have heard good things about the OneUp bar but haven't had the time to ride it myself other than around in front of the shop.

    But technically the We Are One is 33mm sleeved into a purpose built stem and designed to be laterally precise and vertically compliant as well as dampen trail vibration. It would be better for me if it was 9-10ļ rather than 8ļ. It works really well. I am looking forward to their release of the 35mm rise version.
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    Iīve had that One Up 35 mm riser on my Optic C3, but only for a short time. I couldnīt feel the comfort they are advertised with. In the meantime Iīve changed to the new Newmen Advanced 318.25 with a little bit more upsweep in combination with their 50 mm stem. Now Iīm pretty happy with this combination.

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    interesting, I have a One-up ready to go on mine, to see if it reduces vibration as they claim. Although mine is a 20mm rise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skibunnie2 View Post
    This is interesting, thanks. I'm leaning towards the oneup carbon bar with 20mm rise. It has great reviews and I like to support local when I can. I'm also curious about oval chainrings and am looking at the oneup version. For $50 it seems like it's worth checking out.

    I have a kinesiology background and am interested in the ergonomics and biomechanics and efficiency of all of the sports I do.

    If I try going tubeless myself, would you recommend using a syringe to put the sealant in? It seems like a cleaner way to do it.
    Rise of the bar should be based on achieving a grip to ground height that is consistent with achieving the correct body angles based on frame fit (standing) and saddle height (pedalling). It is surprisingly consistent across bikes and across the years despite the change in bikes (one of the bike mags - Dirt? ran an article about the top downhillers bikes over 10 years and the variation in grip to ground height was about 5-10mm despite the huge changes in geometry etc).

    I like oval chain rings, they seem to make the same ride a little easier but a lot of people don't like them. I have used OneUp and they make good product. If you install the SWITCH system is it easy to change chainrings to a round (or a larger chain ring for a less hilly location) if you want/ need to.

    I can switch between bikes (oval vs round) without really noticing the difference, I run a 32T round on my Sight but a 30T oval on my Optic (but this bike was built with guiding carrying a large guide pack on big elevation multi-day trips in the Chilcotin).

    Tubeless, the syringe is less messy but it is easier and cheaper to find someone who has one of the little Stans bottles from a tubeless kit. Wash it clean every time you use it and just fill it from the cheaper bulk bottle. The nozzle fits into the valve stem easily. The trick is have the stem at 45ļ angle and squeeze the mini bottle gently. If you want more than 60ml of Stans then just re-fill it. I cannot believe it took me 15 years to work this one out.
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  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    Rise of the bar should be based on achieving a grip to ground height that is consistent with achieving the correct body angles based on frame fit (standing) and saddle height (pedalling). It is surprisingly consistent across bikes and across the years despite the change in bikes (one of the bike mags - Dirt? ran an article about the top downhillers bikes over 10 years and the variation in grip to ground height was about 5-10mm despite the huge changes in geometry etc).

    In your experience, does the Norco Ride Align system give good results with regards to bar rise, width, stem spacers etc? Or should it just be used as a starting point and then fine tuned?

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    That's my Ride Aligned recommendation

    Effective rise is 55mm (spacers, 0.5 x stack height of stem & bar rise)

    My actual set up is:

    3mm Wolftooth spacer
    35mm 9point8 Stout 40mm x 0ļ rise stem (one of the lowest stack height stems)
    45mm rise SQ-Lab 30x 12ļ sweep Carbon Riser bar trimmed to 760mm (after trying 780mm and 770 mm).

    So my effective rise is 65.5mm

    But my reach on the Optic was 20mm longer than my 2019 Sight so taking 5mm off the stem reach and the additional sweep of the SQ-Lab bars (another 5 mm effective) gives me the additional 10mm of reach I wanted.
    I am also running a 150mm Lyrik so this shortens the effective reach by about 2mm (with the extra 10mm crown to axle length slackening the bike slightly).

    My grip to ground measurement is +5mm over my 2019 Sight and within the 10mm range I have used on that travel bike for 15 years.

    Further to the Ride Aligned is that I run 22 psi front and 24 psi rear (on 30mm rims) but I run Protection Apex tyres (so like Double Down). Also with an effective riding weight of 98 kg I run 95 psi in the Lyrik (this will drop to 92 psi when I install the new C1 seal head kit) and 235 psi in the rear shock. I am only running 2 clicks of RB (from open/ fast/ rabbit) and 5 clicks of LSC.

    I think that the handle bar width recommendation is whack but the industry is obsessed about wider is better rather than actually thinking about what is more effective (and crowbar stiff 35mm handlebars!!!).

    6'4" plus riders might need a 800mm handle bars. Clydesdale riders and high level racers can benefit from a well made 35mm bar/ stem system (due to the forces and also willingness to sacrifice comfort for performance).

    For comparison I run 770mm on my 2020 Sight (and the widest I have run is 780mm on my DH bike but there is very little tree dodging in the bike park).

    I also run single lock ring grips so I can rest my hand right on the end of the grip (I see so many riders running bars that are too wide for them - from a performance point of view - but running double lock ring grips and holding the grip right up against the inner lock ring, leaving a large stub of bar to catch on trees!!).

    So the short answer, and apologies for going down that rabbit hole, is that Ride Aligned is close and a decent start point. I realise that not everyone has access to a range of parts to experiment with and also they don't want to use their valuable weekly riding time to test set up. I would state that if it is done properly once (ideally a zesty 1:30 downhill with a 5-7 min single track climb trail linking back) and the results recorded it gives a base line for good bike set up that will last for one's life.

    I think that the Ride Aligned is obviously the result of a lot of considered work and is pretty spot on and an excellent start point.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 Optic-2020-optic-c29-sram-suspension-setup.jpg  

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    Awesome, thanks for the in-depth feedback. its good to know that Ride Align is a decent starting point.

    its an interesting point about bar width, it suggests I should run 770mm bars, but there is something in me that is afraid to cut them down from 780mm, despite it being such a small amount. damn industry convincing me I need wide bars to be cool!

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    So much interesting information, thanks!

    Iím 5í5 and the 780mm bar feels great. I donít see any reason to cut it down...

    Iím going to give the oneup carbon bar a try as well as the 30t oval chainring. Oh and will convert to tubeless. My C2 *should* be here this week, canít wait! Hopefully the differences from the c3 will be noticeable and justify the extra $1000!

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    Random thought, anyone run a coil fork on their Optic? Say a Marzocchi bomber Z1?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skibunnie2 View Post
    So much interesting information, thanks!

    Iím 5í5 and the 780mm bar feels great. I donít see any reason to cut it down...
    Feel factor is important and I am happy that you are happy on your bike but unless you have the world's largest ape factor there is no chance that a 780mm bar is going to give you superior physical performance on the bike.

    As an example Ritchie Rude is 6' tall (just) and is a 93 kg muscle man and rides 750mm wide bars based on performance testing and the need to thread gaps at high speed. He has stated he would ride 760mm if he wasn't racing.

    The easiest way to determine optimal performance bar width is:

    Set up a curl bar or straight bar on a squat/ lift frame at a height that allows you to achieve an incline push up that gives you a similar back angle to the one you have when you are on your bike.

    Test One: Maximum push ups to fail, a friend measures the distance between your hand positions from edge of left little finger to edge of right little finger at the knuckle.

    Test Two: Maximum duration push up in the bent arm (lower) position, a friend measures hand position width again.

    Average of the two measurements with a weighting towards the one the 'felt' the best.

    Ideally you would test both measurements on a 10-15 minute loop track against the clock. But most people don't want to cut down two bars and most shops don't offer a range of bar widths as demo bars.

    A way of approximating the feel is to use or borrow some double lock ring grips and move all the controls inboard to simulate the narrower bar width but only ride that set up on a wide open track. Also make sure that you fit bar end plugs for safety in case you come off and land on the end of the bar.
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    Quote Originally Posted by v7fmp View Post
    Awesome, thanks for the in-depth feedback. its good to know that Ride Align is a decent starting point.

    its an interesting point about bar width, it suggests I should run 770mm bars, but there is something in me that is afraid to cut them down from 780mm, despite it being such a small amount. damn industry convincing me I need wide bars to be cool!
    Try the double lock ring grip trick. Set your bars up as if it is 770mm by setting the grips slightly inboard and ride something wide open (so you don't catch the bar ends) and please make sure you fit bar end plugs.
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    Always, always, always fit bar end plugs - even when you aren't doing this.

    Ride long enough with groups or at bike parks and you'll see at least one no-bar-plug incident.

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    Quote Originally Posted by j-t-g View Post
    Always, always, always fit bar end plugs - even when you aren't doing this.

    Ride long enough with groups or at bike parks and you'll see at least one no-bar-plug incident.
    Yes always please. As a guide I won't take guests if they are missing them. As a rider I won't ride with 'friends' (usually friends of friends who have been invited along) if they don't have them.

    I bought a job lot of discontinued bar end plugs (branding not safety) from ESI a few years ago and I am working my way through them. I usually carry 2-3 pairs in my guide pack tool kit and even carry 1-2 in my hip pack for social rides.

    You only have to help stabilise a rider who has a handle bar in his/ her quad or abdomen once to know you are never riding without bar end plugs ever again and the same applies for anyone you are riding with.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsHz1IlLVyg

    at 1:40.

    Just riding along on an easy track (admittedly with no hands on the bars) but as we know when you crash it just happens.

    So better a large bruise from a bar end plug than a penetrating wound from a hollow tube.

    Anyway - off topic but everyone be safe.

    Double lock ring grips (and bar end plugs for safety) are a good way of simulating the hand position of the controls before you make the commitment to the cut.

    happy trails
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  168. #168
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    Hi Guys,

    I want to swap my 2019 fox 36 to the C3 build, which crown race do i need to use? i have the spare ZS crown race from the cane creek. would that fit? or any 1.5'' crown race will work? thanks!

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    Don't know what head set the C3 build has but Cane creek crown races are generally good quality (40, 70 or 110) and should work. I am sure that FSA (Norco often use FSA) is probably a little different but at the end of the day it is a ring of metal to hold a dust/ moisture seal that the bearing rests on. I use Cane creek crown races on all my forks (including when I ran an FSA headset in last years Sight) as that is what I keep as spares in my tool chest.
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    @AndrewBikeG, thanks for answering, much appreciated..

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    Anyone else having issues with the E-Thirteen bottom bracket on their C1? Mine has gone quite crunchy in the last few weeks and I'll have to look at a different brand to replace it. I've only done 1200km on it, not ideal.

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    260 miles on my Optic and I just did the 50 hour service on my Pike and rear shock. They're buttery smooth, smoother than when the bike was new. As another poster mentioned, it's well worth doing before the 50 hours. (The rear is quite easy to do.) If you don't want to buy the kit, just opening it up, cleaning it, adding some oil and slicklube would probably be just as good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kdiff View Post
    260 miles on my Optic and I just did the 50 hour service on my Pike and rear shock. They're buttery smooth, smoother than when the bike was new. As another poster mentioned, it's well worth doing before the 50 hours. (The rear is quite easy to do.) If you don't want to buy the kit, just opening it up, cleaning it, adding some oil and slicklube would probably be just as good.
    Did you find the Pike harsh and to have poor small bump compliance before the service? I can't seem to find settings on the Pike that feel good. My hands are beat at the end of a good downhill. The rear feels amazing, almost bottomless no matter what I hit. Front feels fine on big hits and jumps but chatter just chatters the crap out of me. I even switched to a oneup carbon bar to try and help, it made a difference but still hammers me pretty bad. I am already 15-20 psi below recommended and I am not even close to using all the travel, still have at least an inch-inch and a half I could probably use. I can keep letting air out but not sure if that is solving my issue.

  174. #174
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    Anyone out there know the timeline for Frame availability? Trying to order a large frame but cant seem to get an answer on when they will be available.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by duneslider View Post
    Did you find the Pike harsh and to have poor small bump compliance before the service? I can't seem to find settings on the Pike that feel good. My hands are beat at the end of a good downhill. The rear feels amazing, almost bottomless no matter what I hit. Front feels fine on big hits and jumps but chatter just chatters the crap out of me. I even switched to a oneup carbon bar to try and help, it made a difference but still hammers me pretty bad. I am already 15-20 psi below recommended and I am not even close to using all the travel, still have at least an inch-inch and a half I could probably use. I can keep letting air out but not sure if that is solving my issue.
    Yep I've had the same experience.

    Going to do the new debonair upgrade, a service, and change the travel to 140mm for my wife's ripley... we'll see how that goes .

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by duneslider View Post
    Did you find the Pike harsh and to have poor small bump compliance before the service? I can't seem to find settings on the Pike that feel good. My hands are beat at the end of a good downhill. The rear feels amazing, almost bottomless no matter what I hit. Front feels fine on big hits and jumps but chatter just chatters the crap out of me. I even switched to a oneup carbon bar to try and help, it made a difference but still hammers me pretty bad. I am already 15-20 psi below recommended and I am not even close to using all the travel, still have at least an inch-inch and a half I could probably use. I can keep letting air out but not sure if that is solving my issue.
    If you're comfortable with working on your own fork, it's definitely worth opening it up and doing a basic service. My Pike was smooth and had good small bump compliance in the beginning. (Not as compliant as my Fox 36 but the 36 is a 170mm fork.) Over time it definitely degraded faster than expected which is one of the reasons I did the service. Before service I've not had any issues with using 80% travel and nearly 100% in those oh crap moments.

    When servicing I was surprised to find no remnants of any Slick Honey type grease. I've had Fox's the last 5+ years and they're usually packed with too much grease from the factory. Both sides of the Pike did have adequate oil. My theory is the lack of a seal grease added to the performance degrading at a much faster rate and possibly causing some of the harshness you're experiencing.

    With service I also installed the newly released seal head and rubbed Slick Honey all over it, along with a few dabs of oil. I left the original dust wipers but replaced the foam o-rings since you can buy a jumbo pack of them for something like $10. (Better option than trying to clean them.) I copied Fox and added about 3cc of oil to the upper air chamber.

    I'm not sure if its the new seal head or the service but I'm now regularly using about 85-90% of my travel. I only have a few rides since servicing, but it's smooth. I'm thinking about adding another 5psi to my current settings because it feels good on the small stuff and I'm going through the travel more. Speaking of settings, I've found the Norco calculator to be quite good, mine are: 178lbs riding weight; fork: 85 psi, 1 token, rebound 5 out, LSC 16 out, and HSC 5 out. One exception is that I run a front tire psi of 21-21.5 instead of the recommended 23psi. I also have a OneUp bar (trimmed down to 760) and I'm not sure it's as compliant as it's touted to be. I would switch back to 31.8mm bars if there were more options. Also, make sure the OneUp is rolled/rotated back far enough since they're more compliant based on where the force is being applied.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Komdotkom View Post
    Anyone else having issues with the E-Thirteen bottom bracket on their C1? Mine has gone quite crunchy in the last few weeks and I'll have to look at a different brand to replace it. I've only done 1200km on it, not ideal.
    No but I was curious so I had a look. 30mm spindle means not a lot of room for bearings in a PF92 as the outer diameter is 41mm so you have 11 mm to fit two races and some bearings. But e13 are engineers first and unsurprisingly they have decided on a double row bearing system in their PF92 BB as they obviously understand that one needs to reduce the load on smaller bearings.

    https://www.ethirteen.com/products/p...81bb1f66&_ss=r

    I also noticed on their page that they offer a 5 year warranty so it might be worth getting hold of them regarding your BB. Personally I think 1200 km is not a lot but if you ride in shitty conditions, never open your frame so that it can drain/ dry out and put your bike away wet a lot then that might contribute to faster wear.

    For interest's sake I am running eeWings on my Optic so also 30 mm spindle and I am very happy with the PF92 Neo (solid oil bearing) bottom bracket I got from Canecreek: https://canecreek.com/product/hellbe...ottom-bracket/
    but I also acknowledge that after 170 km I cannot actually report how it is wearing other than it took about 50-70 km to break in and now it is running sweet and smooth indeed.

    Just my two cents worth. Happy trails.
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  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdiff View Post
    260 miles on my Optic and I just did the 50 hour service on my Pike and rear shock. They're buttery smooth, smoother than when the bike was new. As another poster mentioned, it's well worth doing before the 50 hours. (The rear is quite easy to do.) If you don't want to buy the kit, just opening it up, cleaning it, adding some oil and slicklube would probably be just as good.
    I did a service after 13 hrs as I wanted to install the C1 seal head kit. I was pleasantly surprised at the level of grease (just the right amount) and oil (bang on) in the fork. I cleaned and soaked the foam rings.

    I am running a 150 mm Lyrik Ultimate RC2 (what can I say, there is no such thing as a stock bike in my garage) and it is certainly riding better after the service but that is largely due to the seal head/ foot nut upgrade meaning that the fork rides a little higher.
    For comparison sake I am 6'2" 103 kg riding weight (I include the full water bottle and B-Rad bag as it is weight that affects the suspension). The fork is:

    2 tokens
    92 psi
    HSC: +1
    LSC: +2
    RB: +7
    (from full open)
    I have run it 1 token and 95 psi but I prefer the way it rides with two tokens.

    For further reference the SD DH Ultimate is set up:

    4.5 positive volume spacers
    235 psi
    LSC: +5
    RB: +3
    (from full open)

    Happy trails.
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    If its worth anything, I've always found forks run better after their first service than when new.

    That's why I do a 'first service' before ever riding new forks now. Lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by j-t-g View Post
    If its worth anything, I've always found forks run better after their first service than when new.

    That's why I do a 'first service' before ever riding new forks now. Lol.
    Yes forks often turn up 'dry' due to long production and supply lead times. I have also had two forks with cracked air shafts where the roll pin holds the seal head to the air shaft. Just like the bike frame, pull everything apart, check it yourself and re-assemble with correct stuff where it should be ie grease on the greasy bits, oil in the lowers (and on the air shaft), loctite (and no grease) on the thready bits - at the correct torque of course, and carbon paste on the tubes where it should be.

    Largest sources of new bike noise and other issues: no grease or anti seize paste on bearings in the head set, incorrect pre-load on BB bearings, saddle rail clamp not tight enough, no carbon paste in the seat tube and seat collar not to EXACT torque, internal cables/ hoses not padded or secured tight enough and the UDH (universal derailleur hanger) not torqued up properly or assembled in the factory with grease on the loctite.

    The pre first ride service is critical in so many areas.
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    with the Ride Align settings, the settings they give for the fork and rear shock, is that from fully open or fully closed? And if so.... which is which? Fully closed is clockwise? Fully open is anti-clockwise?

    My settings should be as follows:

    Fork
    Air Pressure - 89 psi
    Air Volume -1 T
    Rebound -5 out
    LSC -19 out

    Air Pressure - 210 psi
    Air Volume - 4.5 VS
    Rebound - 5 out
    LSC - 12 out

    On the fork, LSC is basically wide open, which is as fast as it can go... does that sound right?

    I thought I had my head around it all, but now im not so sure?!

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    @v7fmp It depends on who you speak to. With the basic ideal that perfectly tuned suspension (for each individual) would not need much/ any dampening and the fact that the sag is set with the dampeners fully open (RS = rabbit or '-' on the fork). The ideal is to run as little dampening as possible whilst having the suspension do the job you want it to do.

    So as I have to have the suspension open to set sag to me it makes sense to add clicks from fully open.

    Also the whole '-' from full dampening means you have to remember how many clicks are actually available when comparing notes/ set up with another rider.

    So any turn in the '+' direction is adding dampening. You are in fact advancing a needle (with some kind of tapered tip to it) into a port essentially making the port smaller and restricting the flow of oil.

    I never think in terms of clockwise or counter clockwise as trying to apply that to the fork rebound dampener always messes up my head.

    '+' or 'turtle' equals more dampening or slowing down the flow of oil or the speed of the rebound or low speed compression action from where you have it now..

    '-' or 'rabbit' equals less (or no) dampening or speeding up the flow of oil or the speed of the rebound or low speed compression dampening from where you have it now.

    You also don't list which fork and shock you have either which is important as they actually have different base tunes (the assumption being that the rider who specs an Ultimate is a better rider than the sider who specs a Select ).

    It is worth watching some of the "how suspension works" videos from SRAM or Vorsprung (not a brand preference more a complex made simple preference) which may even help you with bike set up.

    Happy trails
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    hey Andrew, once again thanks for the info and insight!

    Its the standard Optic rear shock and a Pike Select Plus on the front (with a debonair upgrade to it). Which I added recently, so went back and 'reset' all my settings to the above, which then made me question whether they are set from fully open or closed. I also felt like I needed less air pressure than recommended to get 25% sag.

    Interesting about setting sag at fully open or 'rabbit'. I didn't realise this.

    When riding, how would one determine if the rebound is too fast? I know that if its too slow a fork can 'pack down' over repeated hits, but other than feeling like a pogo stick, what other indications are there?

    I also find that on small and medium hits, the fork feels lovely, but on bigger stuff it feels like my arms are taking much more of a battering than previously experienced.

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    The fun thing is people always confuse faster=more=+=rabbit when it's not the case either. I think the rabbit and turtle symbols are a pretty darn good solution (rabbit=fast), EXCEPT all the tuning guides should then say "4 clicks from rabbit".

    haha.


    Edit: I just put a 2021 on backorder for myself. Looks like I'll be joining the crew at an indeterminate point in the future.
    Last edited by j-t-g; 16 Hours Ago at 07:30 AM.

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