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Thread: 2015 Range

  1. #1
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    2015 Range

    I have one of the 2015 carbon 7.2's on order and and super excited. Does anyone else actually have theirs yet- I am meant to get mine in the next week or so. What estimated times do others have? It doesn't appear Norco are too good keeping to timeframes.

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    Just found out that the new E.T.A is end of November. After looking into the internet comments about 2014 delays I am not too optimistic...

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    I have a 7.3 carbon on order, latest ETA is middle of December but the date has slipped several times already. The shop manager thinks it'll probably be sometime in February before it arrives, which is fine, there's really not much riding to be done here in Canada from mid November till April or so unless one has a fat bike or 'cross bike.

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    Stopped by my LBS on the way home from a ride today. I saw three complete 2015 second gen framed Ranges still in the box sitting on the floor waiting to be built. So there already showing up!!!

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    Sometime in Feb aerius! I hope that is not the case. indebt, i much prefer your post. I live in New Zealand so hopefully they send to the furtherest away places first!

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    Just found out the distributors in Ozzie are getting them in on Nov 27th. They are already on the boat. Sounds like they are being shipped at the moment!

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    Has anyone ridden one or have you guys all bought off specs? I am interested but I am too scared to part with the $ until I can ride one. Can I ask what made you go with this bike?

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    Hi,
    I bought a Norco Range alloy 7.2 Does anyone have news of when they will start to distribute them? Again be delays in deliveries?

    Greetings and sorry for my english

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    Caniwi, I have not tried one. Unfortunately I don't live in a country where you can demo many bikes. I went for the Range 7.2 as it ticked all the boxes for me, from what I could find. It is 160/160, 650b, carbon, 1x11, has a pike and has great reviews. I also got it for a price that no other bike brand could equal. I think that from what I have read all bikes these days perform pretty amazingly, so if it doesn't feel quite right I am sure I will get used to it pretty quickly.

    When I ride with the lads it is all about the downs. We all pedal up, sure, but it is the downs that we are there for. That sounds like what the Range is all about.

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    Hello, I live in Italy, ordered a frame range C7.3 last week and the shopkeeper gave me, tentatively, delivery scheduled for mid-January...

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    Just got my c7.2 today. Off for a ride tomorrow to see how it goes so will report back then. They are being sent out!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by caniwi View Post
    Has anyone ridden one or have you guys all bought off specs? I am interested but I am too scared to part with the $ until I can ride one. Can I ask what made you go with this bike?
    I've ridden a couple of the 2013 & 2014 models thanks to my friends and the network of mountain bikers I know in my area. I'd been looking for a bike that's biased towards downhill performance and that I can still pedal around on my local trails. It would primarily be used for DH bike parks with some regular trail riding here & there, so while DH performance has to be good it still needs to pedal & handle decently on regular trails. And it has to fit me right & feel right.

    At the bike park it performed to expectation, it was really fast and predictable on the downhill runs, granted, we don't have anything close to world cup DH level stuff around here but it handled everything with ease. I've ridden more bikes than I can count and on nearly all of them there's something that feels wrong and forces me to work around it or in some cases it's bad enough that it completely destroys my confidence in the bike. The Range was one of the very few bikes where everything felt right and I could just focus on riding.

    On my regular trails it's not as fun as my hardtail trail bikes since it makes everything too easy unless I keep the power down and ride real fast. Then again, this would be true of any bike with more than 4-5" of suspension travel since my local trails aren't that hard. On more challenging the trails the Range works great even at low speed, it lets me ride sections which I either can't ride or have great difficulty riding on my hardtails. It's a ton of fun as long as the trails are hard enough. Obviously it doesn't climb as easily as my hardtails, which is why I went with the 7.3 since I need a super easy granny gear to help me out (my fitness sucks). It'll climb everything I can throw at it as long as I can keep my legs going, it's just slower than my regular bikes on longer climbs. On short, steep, obstacle filled climbs, the Range is actually better thanks to rear suspension.

    In short, it was the bike which best met my needs.

  13. #13
    dft
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    even though this bike is pretty slack (66) degrees, do you think you could put an angleset (with a tapered ST) on it to make it 65 degrees? (like a giant reign or nomad?)
    good looking bike!

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    This bike is, by far, one of the best bikes I have ridden. I own a 2014 7.1 upgraded with XT brakes and a DBAirCS rear shock (a necessity for this bike). I tend to float between bikes quite frequently.

    Last year, I rode a Giant Anthem, then a Norco Truax, selling that for a Norco Sight 650b. This year, I started out on a C-dale Jekyll Carbon (26er), then to an Enduro 29er, and now on to the Range.

    In short, this is THE bike I should have been on all along. It descends as well as my Truax did (7&7 "Shore" bike), but climbs aswell as both the Anthem and Sight and Enduro 29er did (given their different advantages).

    DFT, I don't really think you need to go to 65 degrees (although, I am sure you can find an angleset) as this bike really does ride amazingly well with it's current geometry. A slack head angle does not always equal a good handling bike, and you WILL sacrifice climbing geometry no doubt. I think you would be wasting your money with an angleset, because it won't add anything to the bike.

    At 66 degrees, the bike isn't the most efficient steep technical climber, but with some body english, you can overcome anything on this bike. As for descending, make sure you have your sag and rebound(s) set properly, as I find the bike is really dependent on having those settings adjusted properly.

    For what it's worth, I live in British Columbia, and have ridden this (and all of the above) bikes all over BC, and in many places in the United States from Nevada up to Canada. I frequently ride North Vancouver, as well as various bike parks in BC. So while I won't profess to say that I am a wicked rider, I (and most anyone else living in the BC who seriously mountain bikes) would say that I am riding trails quite a bit more technical (in every aspect) than many people on this forum. So, that's all to say that I find the geometry on this bike, and the suspension kinematics to be VERY dialled for very technical (both high speed and low speed) trails...

  15. #15
    dft
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    thanks for the info.
    i've ridden on the shore alot also and i like the steeps (cypress: sexboy, wild cherry.., fromme, seymore) thus my interest in having it slack (i'll have a travel adjustment fork, so climbing won't be a big deal).

    but can you tell me, the headset is integrated, does that make it impossible to put a reducer set on? or can the headset come out. i only ask since an email from the works said they can do it for this bike.

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    Hey DFT,

    The headset is a standard integrated headset, which you CAN get a reducer for, as far as i know. What do you want to reduce to? All 27.5" forks are tapered steerers.

    If you're referring to an angleset, yes, Cane Creek (I believe) makes an angleset for integrated headsets... but I believe they are ridiculously expensive (like $250 or something)... but that was nearly two years ago that I was looking into that, so they might be cheaper now.

  17. #17
    dft
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    Sorry, yea I was referring to an angleset.

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    I'm 165 cm (5.413 feet) tall and generally I use size frame small, also in my actually range 2013, killer B2, next frame I ordered a c7.3 in medium size, to use with a 40 mm stem, after many calculations, I hope not to have been wrong.....

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    bad news from italian importer, no frame c7.3 available.....

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    Hey guy's !

    need help to pic a frame size.

    I'm 168 cm and that's between size S and M, i tried the M size, but they didnt have the S size to try it. So if enyone have some experience, maybe help about the Norco Range frame size are they small or larger one's ?

    Thx and a great day !

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    hello Jurica, for me, you are right with a medium frame and short stem like 40/50 mm

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    Quote Originally Posted by maramouse View Post
    hello Jurica, for me, you are right with a medium frame and short stem like 40/50 mm
    Yeah, thx, the dealer sad so, i should go with the M and if i was not confi whit it, then the short stem should fix it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigmike9699 View Post

    Last year, I rode a Giant Anthem, then a Norco Truax, selling that for a Norco Sight 650b. This year, I started out on a C-dale Jekyll Carbon (26er), then to an Enduro 29er, and now on to the Range.

    In short, this is THE bike I should have been on all along. It descends as well as my Truax did (7&7 "Shore" bike), but climbs aswell as both the Anthem and Sight and Enduro 29er did (given their different advantages).
    Can you elaborate on the Range VS Sight? I'm in the process of picking between the two and will use the bike for mainly XC (non competitive) use, the Sight seems the obvious choice but if the range pedals almost as efficiently it might be nice to have some extra descending ability.

    Thanks!
    Ben

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    My Norco Range carbon 7.2. Amazing!!

    2015 Range-n5.jpg

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    B Rabbit,

    I'd definitely recommend the Sight over the Range if you intend to use it primarily for XC/trail. While the Range is still a very efficient pedaler, the Sight does pedal a decent amount better, and especially so with the new DBAir Inline if you can get one spec'd with that.

    For the steeper trails here in BC, I found the Sight with a 140mm fork to be a little steep for my likings, so I put a 150mm fork on it (after trying a 160mm before that, but found it changed the geo too much), and found the bike really came into it's own with the 150mm fork. I think these 140mm travel trail bikes NEED a 150mm fork option ("BC Edition"?) for buyers in areas that have steeper, sustained descents. Don't get me wrong, the bike still rails with a 140mm fork, and for MOST people, it will be sufficient, so don't run out and buy a 150mm fork for yours until you ride it with the 140mm fork.

    Definitely the Range is the more aggressive descender, but for predominantly XC riding, you will be much much happier on a Sight. It's a lighter bike (although not MUCH lighter), with slightly steeper angles, making it much more comfortable for (longer) xc rides. I still do fairly XC rides on the Range, but on the steeper climbs, the front end definitely wanders. Yes, something remedied by an adjustable fork, but then you potentially jeopardize fork performance (depending on the fork).

    In any event, I think you'd be super stoked on the Sight, and if you find that you want it a bit more aggressive for descending, either put in an angle-set, or get a 150mm fork. I don't recommend anything higher than 150mm though, as I found the 160mm raised the BB a little too much, and took away from the handling characteristics of the bike.

  26. #26
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    IN house San Fran Bay area

    2015 Range-dscn4965.jpg

    in stock now

    krakatoa

    415-453-0333

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    can the angleset be used to reduce HTA a degree, and then shorten the fork stroke to 150mm compensate to get more of a burly trail bike setup? i have veered away from norco with the reported frame issues but the 7.2 is at a nice price point…if the issues have been resolved.

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    and there as any aluminium bike or just carbon?

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    2015 - 2014 Range Pivot Torque Specs and Shock sizing

    2015 - 2014 Range Pivot Torque Specs and Shock sizing

    Found this info hard to find online so would like to add it to this forum for others

    2015 Range-norco-range-7.1-torque-specs..-shock-size.jpg
    Get out and ride

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    Does anyone Know if a Specialized 142+ rear hub will fit in the Range frame? The only difference with 142+ is that it moves the cassette outward a tiny bit. Some frames can accept this and others cant. I would like to know, Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    Does anyone Know if a Specialized 142+ rear hub will fit in the Range frame? The only difference with 142+ is that it moves the cassette outward a tiny bit. Some frames can accept this and others cant. I would like to know, Thanks
    No they do not fit in the Range carbon frame (I don't know about the aluminium frame though). I know because I tried. The flange width pushes the cassette to far, causing the chain to bind with the seat stay when in your 10 (or 11) tooth ring. I'm sure you could ride it enough and it would eventually create it's own space, but somehow I think that would void the warranty and the integrity of the frame.

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    Thank you for the info. I found a good deal on a set of roval carbon wheels but they are 142+ so I wasn't sure if they would fit. I don't have my Range till next week so I can't check for myself.

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    I wouldn't take the change. There was absolutely NO way it was going to work in the carbon frame (I couldn't even fully tighten the axle as the chain was binding, and that's with an 11spd chain too), and I don't imagine the aluminium frame dimensions are that off. Granted, the carbon frame has a bit more material in that area, but not significantly so, and definitely that enough that I could see the hub having fitted.

    SOME frames can accept a 142+ (I have HEARD of a Trek Remedy fitting one, although haven't seen it myself), but it's definitely not in my list of "compatible components".

    In any event, if you try and it works, post here because there are some good deals on Roval stuff (for a reason???) with 142+.

    -Mike

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    My Range 7.3 Carbon finally showed up a week ago and I've been riding the crap out of it since then. Swapped out the rotors and slapped a set of Zee brakes on it, changed the grips, and it's dialed. One thing I'm still getting used to is the disconnect between what I'm seeing and what I'm feeling; the scenery's flying by me at ridiculous speeds while the bike still feels perfectly smooth and composed. It's pretty cool, but I have a feeling it's going to get me into trouble unless I recalibrate my brain real soon.


  35. #35
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    Hey. I pulled the pin on a 2015 7.2 carbon but have been waiting patiently for Race Face to deliver some new components.

    Once done, it will have the following changes to the spec components:

    - Enve AM carbon wheel set
    - Race Face Next carbon crank
    - Race Face SixC carbon bar (with Lizard Skin grips)
    - Race Face Turbine 50mm stem
    - XX1 shifter and rear derailleur
    - Guide RSC brakes
    - Maxxxis Minion DHR II tubeless front and rear
    - fully murdered out chain stays and top tube

    Super stoked but man, while they have a GREAT product, Race Face is not the swiftest on the delivery front.

    I will post some pics as soon as it is finally built.

    After about 15 or so bikes, this is the first Norco for me.

    PS - SWEET looking bike Aerius. Congrats. Ride it til you wear it out.

    PPS - I am shocked at how few Norco posts there are on here. Where I am from (Calgary, Alberta), Norco is pretty huge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    My Range 7.3 Carbon finally showed up a week ago and I've been riding the crap out of it since then. Swapped out the rotors and slapped a set of Zee brakes on it, changed the grips, and it's dialed. One thing I'm still getting used to is the disconnect between what I'm seeing and what I'm feeling; the scenery's flying by me at ridiculous speeds while the bike still feels perfectly smooth and composed. It's pretty cool, but I have a feeling it's going to get me into trouble unless I recalibrate my brain real soon.

    I got my 7.3 two weeks ago and also need to get used to it and dial in the suspension and do a couple more upgrades. So far I've swapped the bars for my old Race Face Atlas with Lizard Skins grips and swapped the X-Fusion dropper post for my old KS Supernatural. This weekend I'll get put a 30T NW ring and do a tubeless conversion.

    2015 Range-img_5337.jpg

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    Is the color slightly more "lime green" than the website photos? Mine is due to arrive any day now. stoked!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution View Post
    Is the color slightly more "lime green" than the website photos? Mine is due to arrive any day now. stoked!
    Yes. It looks more lime/neon green that what it looks in the Norco website photos. The website photos look more yellow (at least in this monitor). Regardless of color, the bike looks sick in person.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Hey. I pulled the pin on a 2015 7.2 carbon but have been waiting patiently for Race Face to deliver some new components.

    Once done, it will have the following changes to the spec components:

    - Enve AM carbon wheel set
    - Race Face Next carbon crank
    - Race Face SixC carbon bar (with Lizard Skin grips)
    - Race Face Turbine 50mm stem
    - XX1 shifter and rear derailleur
    - Guide RSC brakes
    - Maxxxis Minion DHR II tubeless front and rear
    - fully murdered out chain stays and top tube

    Super stoked but man, while they have a GREAT product, Race Face is not the swiftest on the delivery front.

    I will post some pics as soon as it is finally built.

    After about 15 or so bikes, this is the first Norco for me.

    PS - SWEET looking bike Aerius. Congrats. Ride it til you wear it out.

    PPS - I am shocked at how few Norco posts there are on here. Where I am from (Calgary, Alberta), Norco is pretty huge.
    Just picked up my bike today (together with my daughter's Process 134 SE and 2 Super 2Rs). 27.71 pounds with my pedals, which is respectable I think.

  40. #40
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    I just want to say that after about a dozen bikes (some $10k-ish), this Range is THE funnest bike I have ever owned. Wow. I need to get used to its size though - I feel REALLY high on it, and the bar width (800mm) is a little freaky in the trees. Wheelie drops are easier on this bike than anything I have ever ridden. I cannot wait to get back out there.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution View Post
    Is the color slightly more "lime green" than the website photos? Mine is due to arrive any day now. stoked!
    The colour is pretty much hi-vis neon yellow. Definitely not the school bus yellow of the website photos.


    So the one month report. The first couple weeks were spent getting the suspension dialed in as well as getting used to the capabilities of the bike. It's the first full suspension bike I've owned (though far from the first I've ridden), but I found I didn't need to make much of an adjustment to my riding style, it was mostly a matter of line choice and trusting the bike. The riding position is what I'm used to, same thing with the balance point, riding the bike just takes a bit more body english than my hardtails. It does everything I wanted it to do, it flies downhill at ludicrous speeds and once I swapped to a lighter wheelset it was better than I expected on my regular trail loops. Climbing doesn't suck the life out of me and it still feels lively & playful at moderate speeds on intermediate trails, I don't have to push the bike hard to make it come alive, it feels just fine for casual riding.

    I was a bit worried that the Monarch Plus R would be tuned wrong for me since my preferences for suspension setup are pretty far off from the norm. Turned out that the shock was pretty much dialed, the compression side was pretty much where I'd want it and all I had to do was dial in the rebound and air pressure. The Pike took a bit more work but it eventually ended up with a similar setup to the rest of my forks. Everything's going well so far, no creaks or noises yet, pivot bolts are staying tight, only downside is it collects mud a lot easier than my hardtails.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Range-img_3907-cropped.jpg  


  42. #42
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    Here's how my 2015 C2 turned out...

    2015 Range-img_6756.jpg

    2015 Range-img_6736.jpg

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    This is after installing a Raceface 30t NW ring. I still want to add a OneUp 42 cog to have an easy gear for climbing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    daaaannngg!! That's a beaut. Now I want a range to replace my Sight...

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    and another to make me green w envy!

    So - any of you Range riders - ride a Sight in comparison?

  46. #46
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    Looks great Mike!

    What seat did you end up with? I'm hoping to get my piggy (31.08lbs) Sight into the 27lb range and I have a small list of items needed. I was considering the Bontrager Evoke RXL seat at 145g vs. the WTB Volt Sport that comes on the bike. I can't get a weight for it but it seems like it's well north of 250g.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by F8L View Post
    Looks great Mike!

    What seat did you end up with? I'm hoping to get my piggy (31.08lbs) Sight into the 27lb range and I have a small list of items needed. I was considering the Bontrager Evoke RXL seat at 145g vs. the WTB Volt Sport that comes on the bike. I can't get a weight for it but it seems like it's well north of 250g.
    Thanks.

    I ended up using my Specialized Phenom Expert with Ti rails, which weighs in at a portly 243 g. I really like the comfort of that seat. If I replace it I will look at the Bontrager and the Anvil Forge saddle, which was recommended in my Weight Weenie thread:

    ANVL Components Forge Saddle - Review - Pinkbike

    196 g; $120, and very nice looking.

    I weighed the seat that was specced on the Range at the shop and on their scale it was close to 300 g if I recall correctly.

    2015 Range-img_6759.jpg

    2015 Range-img_6760.jpg

  48. #48
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    Definitely a nice seat for the money and weight. I'll add that to the list as well. It wasn't until I started adding up the weight of my lower spec'd parts when I realized why my bike was so heavy compared to the upper model Sight and Range.

    Our bikes look similar minus the orange decals on mine. So yeah, you're bike look sweet!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Range-2015-norco-sight-c7.jpg  


  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by F8L View Post
    Definitely a nice seat for the money and weight. I'll add that to the list as well. It wasn't until I started adding up the weight of my lower spec'd parts when I realized why my bike was so heavy compared to the upper model Sight and Range.

    Our bikes look similar minus the orange decals on mine. So yeah, you're bike look sweet!
    That's a sick bike.

    I'm sure you have thought about it very carefully but I must say, I noticed a pretty big difference with the carbon wheel set. Some buddies of mine have the LB's and they are totally sweet, especially for the relatively inexpensive price. I got my Enves for $1100 CDN which I was told was $500 below cost, so I could not pass it up. I don't regret it.

    Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. I obsessed pretty hard over every single component on that bike. I may be able to help you with your project.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    That's a sick bike.

    I'm sure you have thought about it very carefully but I must say, I noticed a pretty big difference with the carbon wheel set. Some buddies of mine have the LB's and they are totally sweet, especially for the relatively inexpensive price. I got my Enves for $1100 CDN which I was told was $500 below cost, so I could not pass it up. I don't regret it.

    Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. I obsessed pretty hard over every single component on that bike. I may be able to help you with your project.
    Will do and thank you!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    So - any of you Range riders - ride a Sight in comparison?
    It's like the Sight, but it holds a drift better and you can get away with more stupid stuff. They're a lot more similar than different, the Sight is lighter and a bit faster on trails where I have to pedal, and if I didn't have Quebec DH trips planned it would be the bike I'd go with.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Here's how my 2015 C2 turned out...

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    Nice! Mine is at 31.75 pounds. Next on the list is lighter cranks and tubeless conversion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Nice! Mine is at 31.75 pounds. Next on the list is lighter cranks and tubeless conversion.
    That is a super sick frame. I fully murdered mine out with a little black tape here and there, but I love the look of yours at the other end of the spectrum.

    I bet you will love the Range tubeless. I'm running my tires loooooooooow. Despite the whole anti-squat, pedal kickback thing, I get great traction climbing, even when hammering the pedals in the full on steep, rooty, rocky, loose, techy, gnarly shit. Just got back from yet another ride tonight and am delighted how the rear end seems to claw into the ground when I start hammering. I think my tire choice and low psi really help out in the traction department. Climbing, braking and cornering. Not sure how much you will lose in rolling weight (if any) going tubeless, but the ability to run at low pressures with no snakebites (being careful not to pooch your rims) --> priceless. Sorry for stating the obvious, but I really do think running low tire pressure on this suspension design is a must, and going tubeless gets you there.

    Anyway, sick bike.
    Last edited by mtnbkrmike; 05-08-2015 at 07:43 AM.

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    I agree tubeless is the way to go. I had tubeless in my Stumpjumper with Mavic rims. I was running tire pressures in the mid 20s. I've just been lazy with the conversion for the Range.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    I agree tubeless is the way to go. I had tubeless in my Stumpjumper with Mavic rims. I was running tire pressures in the mid 20s. I've just been lazy with the conversion for the Range.
    I run mine sub 20

    As an aside, how would you describe the SJ's Horst Link suspension versus Norco's take on it?

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    2015 Range

    It's hard to tell since the geos are so different but in general I think it tracks better, specially on tech climbs. I have to load the front tire more to make sure it tracks.

    As far as tire pressures, I couldn't get below 25 psi without major sidewall issues with a Butcher/Purgatory tire combo. What tires are you running?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    It's hard to tell since the geos are so different but in general I think it tracks better, specially on tech climbs. I have to load the front tire more to make sure it tracks.

    As far as tire pressures, I couldn't get below 25 psi without major sidewall issues with a Butcher/Purgatory tire combo. What tires are you running?
    I've been running sub 20 with everything for a while now, including Hans Dampfs, and now Minions (DHF and DHR II). I'm 190 with no gear so I am no lightweight. Never a problem. Not even any burping. Ever.

    For the terrain I ride in, the DHF/DHR II has been a killer combo so far. I was supposed to get a DHR II front and rear to shave a bit of weight but they only had one DHR II left. They said they would swap it for free when they get another DHR II in, but I think I will just keep it as is.

    I should say that I ripped the shit out of those Hans Dampfs but that had nothing to do with tire pressure. More about sharp rocky terrain that was merciless on that soft rubber. I was missing lugs after a few weeks.

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    2015 Range

    Raced the Range at the North Vancouver enduro this past weekend and I was really impressed by how the Range handled the really techy terrain. Now I just need to step up my game.

    2015 Range-imageuploadedbytapatalk1431573577.611102.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Raced the Range at the North Vancouver enduro this past weekend and I was really impressed by how the Range handled the really techy terrain. Now I just need to step up my game.

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    That's cool. Congrats.

    I am having lots of problems with my Range. The climbing is a huge surprise for the good. The downs though have been EXTREMELY disappointing. Yeah - I know - contrary to everything you read.

    I rode some DH-y super gnar Sunday. Steep, rocky, off camber switchbacks and other similar stuff. I almost bit it a few times with my fork diving. I added 2 tokens tonight and rode but there was nothing steep enough to really test it.

    On a positive note, tonight I tied my personal best on a 45 minute climb. But wow - the fast rough rooty downs almost caused detached retinas. I have to think my suspension is not set up properly. It feels like I am riding a hard tail. Or even a rigid at times. I am the first to admit that I suck setting up suspensions and I am sure that is the problem. But man, those downs tonight were ROUGH. There is no way I would ever describe the suspension on my Range as anything even remotely approaching plush.

    If you don't mind me asking, how much do you weigh? I am 185 without gear. What is the PSI, LSC and rebound on your fork? Are you running any tokens? What is the PSI and rebound on your shock?

    Do you experience any of the same things as me?

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    My Range has the Pike RC and Monarch Plus R. I'm 150 lbs and run the Pike with 65-70 PSI, no tokens, 5 clicks in from full fast on compression, and 3 clicks in from full fast on rebound. The shock is at 195-200 PSI with 8 clicks in from full fast on the rebound. Below 10km/h or so it doesn't soak up bumps too well, but I don't care since if I'm going that slow I don't really need suspension anyway, I'm used to riding a hardtail where I have to work the bike over everything. But once I get the bike up to speed it's smooth, and faster I go the better it feels. I've blasted through nasty rock gardens & root ledges at speeds that I did not think were possible and the bike has stayed perfectly smooth & composed. I'm going at least 10-15 km/h faster than on my hardtail and it feels like a magic carpet ride. It's smooth to the point where I sometimes lose my perception of how stupid fast I'm going on the downhills.

    I should note that I've always run a fairly firm suspension setup with less sag compared to most others, even on my hardtail bikes. On the Range, the fork is at about 10-15% sag and the rear is at 15-20%, it is smoother if I up the sag by about 5% on each end, but then it's not as fast & responsive for the way I ride (yes, I do time everything with my bike computer) and it will bottom more than I like when I hit the larger drops or go too fast and botch something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    ...once I get the bike up to speed it's smooth, and faster I go the better it feels. I've blasted through nasty rock gardens & root ledges at speeds that I did not think were possible and the bike has stayed perfectly smooth & composed...
    Thanks for the settings. I obviously need to spend considerable time dialing in my suspension.

    Blasting over rooty downhill sections last evening loosened my fillings. It seemed worse when my seat was dropped - when it was slammed down, it felt like the rear suspension came close to being locked up at times. "Smooth" and "composed" are definitely not words that come to mind. Neither is "plush" for that mater. My experience in those situations has been the polar opposite. And it gets no better with speed.

    I either have the suspension set all wrong, or I have all of a sudden lost about two decades of riding skills. I feel like I have gone backwards with this bike on the downs, which is precisely the reason I bought it. Bizarre.

    I am going back out tonight to some rough rooty downs and will spend some time trying to tweak on the fly. I'm hitting Golden this weekend. Mount 7 will be the true test.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Blasting over rooty downhill sections last evening loosened my fillings. It seemed worse when my seat was dropped - when it was slammed down, it felt like the rear suspension came close to being locked up at times. "Smooth" and "composed" are definitely not words that come to mind. Neither is "plush" for that mater. My experience in those situations has been the polar opposite. And it gets no better with speed.

    I either have the suspension set all wrong, or I have all of a sudden lost about two decades of riding skills. I feel like I have gone backwards with this bike on the downs, which is precisely the reason I bought it. Bizarre.
    My guess is you don't have enough air pressure in the shock along with too much rebound damping. That would explain why you're not having much (if any) problems with the rear suspension extending under power on climbs along with all the issues you're having on the downhills. IMO the rule of thumb of using 30-35% sag on bikes such as the Range and then trying to compensate with volume spacers and compression settings just screws things up. Try running the sag at 20% front & rear and set the rebound nice & fast, about 3-6 clicks in from full fast on the front and 8-10 from full fast on the rear. Also remove one or both volume spacers from the fork while you're at it and set the compression at 4-6 clicks from full open.

    This will likely mess up the low speed climbing of the bike to some extent as the suspension won't soak up things as well and rebound a bit too fast which reduces traction, but that's the way it is on ANY bike. If you set it up to handle rough high speed downhills it'll be compromised on technical low speed climbs & vice-versa unless you have something like the Cane Creek DB shocks which alters both the rebound & compression settings when you flip the climb switch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    My guess is you don't have enough air pressure in the shock along with too much rebound damping. That would explain why you're not having much (if any) problems with the rear suspension extending under power on climbs along with all the issues you're having on the downhills. IMO the rule of thumb of using 30-35% sag on bikes such as the Range and then trying to compensate with volume spacers and compression settings just screws things up. Try running the sag at 20% front & rear and set the rebound nice & fast, about 3-6 clicks in from full fast on the front and 8-10 from full fast on the rear. Also remove one or both volume spacers from the fork while you're at it and set the compression at 4-6 clicks from full open.

    This will likely mess up the low speed climbing of the bike to some extent as the suspension won't soak up things as well and rebound a bit too fast which reduces traction, but that's the way it is on ANY bike. If you set it up to handle rough high speed downhills it'll be compromised on technical low speed climbs & vice-versa unless you have something like the Cane Creek DB shocks which alters both the rebound & compression settings when you flip the climb switch.
    Thanks. Just got back from 3 days (Sat, Sun and Mon) of some hard, techy riding in Golden BC. I was on the Range riding aggressive trails all 3 days. Yesterday (Sun), as a bonus, we spent all afternoon shuttling Mount 7 on our DH bikes (I wondered the whole time how the Range would have done).

    Anyway, after some pedal strikes on Sat, it dawned on me to check the rear sag. OMG. As you predicted, it was WAY off. 40% sag. It had 190 PSI in it (Monarch Plus RC3). I weigh 185 without gear. I added 60 psi to bring it up to 250. That put it at about 30% sag, without gear. Needless to say, it was like riding a completely different bike. I actually found it to better on the flats and climbs. And no pedal strikes. I completely out rode my buddy on his Pivot Mach 5.7, and he is normally stronger on the climbs than me. The downs were much different - I didn't use full travel on the shock (like I had been doing) but I was able to blast down/through the rocky, rooty stuff at much higher speeds. I found it continually better as I stopped and added a click or 2 of rebound. Not sure how many clicks from open I currently am but I am liking it a lot.

    So, I will continue tinkering with it but bottom line, it is much better with the right amount of air. Last time I will trust my LBS. They spent 25 minutes measuring sag and doing this and that. I thought for sure they had the sag right. Unless it leaked, they shit the bed royally on that.

    Anyway, thanks for the help, and yeah, you nailed it on the low shock pressure.

    Mike

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    Glad to hear that it worked out! It's entirely possible that you had some air leak out of the shock after your local shop set it up. I've seen a number of Monarch Plus shocks which leaked air and/or oil at first and took a few rides to get everything settled in and sealed up. Mine held air fine but had an oil seepage issue for the first 2-3 rides, it's quite possible that yours had a slow air leak which threw things out of whack.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    Glad to hear that it worked out! It's entirely possible that you had some air leak out of the shock after your local shop set it up. I've seen a number of Monarch Plus shocks which leaked air and/or oil at first and took a few rides to get everything settled in and sealed up. Mine held air fine but had an oil seepage issue for the first 2-3 rides, it's quite possible that yours had a slow air leak which threw things out of whack.
    Now that you mention it, I have never had a shock that leaked the amount of oil that that shock did. It stopped after maybe 6 or so rides, but it was incredibly excessive until then. Perhaps there was indeed a slow leak of air as well. I know the guy who set it up with me and he is a very accomplished and meticulous mechanic and DHer. All this now makes sense for my simple little brain. Thanks again.

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    Have only put 40-50 rides on my Sight and now I want a Rangeeee, you guys made me jealous haha

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    Quote Originally Posted by eragotte View Post
    Have only put 40-50 rides on my Sight and now I want a Rangeeee, you guys made me jealous haha
    I think they are both great bikes. I could have just as easily gone with a Sight.

    I will say this though - I am blown away with the climbing ability of my Range. I understand about the whole exaggerated anti-squat thing when using a small ring but holy crap, I think I must be an easy adapter to the stiffening rear end because I am climbing everything. And I mean everything. I am 100x more shocked with the climbing ability of this bike, than with its downhill prowess. I still don't have my suspension dialled but to me, on the downs, it is nowhere near what I would call plush.

    I honestly don't think you gave up anything with the Sight, which I suspect climbs even better and rails the single track. I think we are both fortunate to be able to ride the bikes we have.

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    I agree with Mike, the most surprising thing about the Range is how well it climbs for a 160mm bike. I also considered the Sight but wanted a bit more travel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Here's how my 2015 C2 turned out...

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    hey mike. great build! what size you riding?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rdigiondo View Post
    hey mike. great build! what size you riding?
    Thanks. It's a large. I am 6 feet even with a 34 inch inseam. It seems to fit me well.

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    What shocks is everybody running? Mine came with a monarch plus r but I'm considering upgrading to a monarch plus rc3 or a dbair cs. I'm missing the "lockout" feature on long climbs.

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    I've been running with X-fusion Vector HLR paired with Vengeance HLR up front, so far rocking very good and I've never missed any lockout switches. I run the Vector with about 25% sag, but I've noticed that bigger sag will quite quickly negatively affect the pedaling efficiency. The adjustability(HSL/LCH/rebound/IFP pressure & volume) has worked very well and it is easy to adjust the performance of the shock to one direction or the other, depending on preference and terrain where riding. When riding only at home trails, it is more of a set-it-and-forget-it type of solution, but I travel quite a lot and ride in different locations so the adjustability has been of big help for me...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    What shocks is everybody running? Mine came with a monarch plus r but I'm considering upgrading to a monarch plus rc3 or a dbair cs. I'm missing the "lockout" feature on long climbs.
    I've got a Monarch Plus RC3 on mine. Apart from messing around with it on the first few rides, I never flick the switch from full open, where it stays 100% of the time.

    On climbs, I find that bike to be super efficient. I personally would not want it to be any firmer or else I would start having traction issues in the gnar. Then again I had a Scott Ransom LTD and a Genius 710 - I never touched the Twinloc on either. Full open front and back 100% of the time on them too.

    There are others on this site who know 1000x more about this than me, but I suppose you must also have to consider the Range's emphasized anti-squat characteristics when assessing shock options, which I understand do not disappear until you are running a 36 tooth (or larger) ring on the front. In fact, most say that the ant-squat is so pronounced that the shock actually extends under load, thereby locking the rear end up regardless of shock setting. Some are running a CCDB to try to prevent the shock from extending (not compressing) while climbing. Any bob you are feeling is likely more due to the shock extending than compressing while under load. Personally, I don't feel it at all on my 1x system. I don't notice any pedal kick back nor do I feel any shock extension.

    Sorry if you knew all this already (which I am sure you did), and sorry to the more techy riders out there who feel I may have butchered things with my very simple explanation.

    In the end, I question whether an RC3 is worth the money, over an R. It would not be for me, because I would run it wide open anyway, which is likely how your Monarch is already tuned in the single position (not sure of that though). If anything, I would consider the CCDB, but I know a guy who works at a shop who had a 2014 Range with an RC3 and a SA Pike, who switched to a 2015 Range with a CCDB and a Pike DA. He liked his set up from last year much better. I tried to cut weight on my bike and for that reason alone, the CCDB was out. Plus, I'm a set it and forget it kinda guy. The infinite adjustability on the CCDB would be too much for my simple little brain to handle. Finally, I find the RC3 excellent for climbing (although I am still trying to find the plushest settings for the steep, rooty, eroded, retina detaching downs we have here in Kananaskis Country).

    Anyway, I am just parroting some of the things I have read and heard so please don't make a decision based on anything I have said above.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

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    Yeah I guess I would only use the lockout on fire roads. On techy climbs the open position (the only one I have) works great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    What shocks is everybody running? Mine came with a monarch plus r but I'm considering upgrading to a monarch plus rc3 or a dbair cs. I'm missing the "lockout" feature on long climbs.
    Funny you should mention that since I went from the Monarch Plus R to a DBAir CS earlier this week. Nothing wrong with the R, and I had no complaints about it, someone just made me an offer I couldn't say no to. I don't have the DBAir 100% dialed in yet, but so far the main improvement is better consistency in launching janky jumps. There's some questionably built jumps in my local trails which would kick the rear end of the bike around a bit with the stock shock, the DBAir keeps the rear end more settled so that it launches better. It also pumps through dips & corners a bit better, but otherwise it's the same. The stock RS shocks are pretty well matched to the bike so there's not a lot of room for improvement unless your preferences for shock setups are well off the norm.

    As for the climb switch, it's not a lockout. At all. If you're expecting a platform type lockout, it's not for you and you'll hate it. What the climb switch does is dramatically slow down the shock in both directions, if you stand & bounce on the pedals it still moves, just slower and less. It's not like a traditional lockout where the shock doesn't move unless you whack a bump hard enough to open up the valving. I think the climb switch is the better way to do things unless you're climbing a smooth paved road. It reduces unwanted suspension movement while still keeping the ride comfortable and allowing the suspension to work and absorb bumps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    Funny you should mention that since I went from the Monarch Plus R to a DBAir CS earlier this week. Nothing wrong with the R, and I had no complaints about it, someone just made me an offer I couldn't say no to. I don't have the DBAir 100% dialed in yet, but so far the main improvement is better consistency in launching janky jumps. There's some questionably built jumps in my local trails which would kick the rear end of the bike around a bit with the stock shock, the DBAir keeps the rear end more settled so that it launches better. It also pumps through dips & corners a bit better, but otherwise it's the same. The stock RS shocks are pretty well matched to the bike so there's not a lot of room for improvement unless your preferences for shock setups are well off the norm.

    As for the climb switch, it's not a lockout. At all. If you're expecting a platform type lockout, it's not for you and you'll hate it. What the climb switch does is dramatically slow down the shock in both directions, if you stand & bounce on the pedals it still moves, just slower and less. It's not like a traditional lockout where the shock doesn't move unless you whack a bump hard enough to open up the valving. I think the climb switch is the better way to do things unless you're climbing a smooth paved road. It reduces unwanted suspension movement while still keeping the ride comfortable and allowing the suspension to work and absorb bumps.
    Aerius - where did you get the DBAir CS and how much did you pay? If I can get one at not too bad a cost, I may try one out (not that I dislike my Monarch Plus RC3).

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Aerius - where did you get the DBAir CS and how much did you pay? If I can get one at not too bad a cost, I may try one out (not that I dislike my Monarch Plus RC3).
    If you do get and like the DBAir CS I'll buy your Monarch Plus RC3.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    If you do get and like the DBAir CS I'll buy your Monarch Plus RC3.
    Thanks. Upon further reflection, I don't really see it happening. I like that Monarch and I also have not so distant memories of weighing Lizard Skin grips on the store scale and being stoked they were 20 grams less than the ESIs. LMFAO!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Thanks. Upon further reflection, I don't really see it happening. I like that Monarch and I also have not so distant memories of weighing Lizard Skin grips on the store scale and being stoked they were 20 grams less than the ESIs. LMFAO!
    Fair enough. I think I'll stick with the current shock for now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Fair enough. I think I'll stick with the current shock for now.
    For what it's worth, especially having regard to Aerius' comments, I think that is a wise move. I am staying put with the stock shock as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Thanks. Upon further reflection, I don't really see it happening. I like that Monarch and I also have not so distant memories of weighing Lizard Skin grips on the store scale and being stoked they were 20 grams less than the ESIs. LMFAO!
    You'll probably cry if you weighed the DBAir CS since it's about 175 grams more than your Monarch Plus RC3. Every single gram that I dropped when I went from the stock handlebars to a carbon bar came right back when I installed the DBAir CS. But at least the added weight's near the center of gravity so it's not all bad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    You'll probably cry if you weighed the DBAir CS since it's about 175 grams more than your Monarch Plus RC3. Every single gram that I dropped when I went from the stock handlebars to a carbon bar came right back when I installed the DBAir CS. But at least the added weight's near the center of gravity so it's not all bad.
    My LBS said $725 CDN all in, installed with reducers. Not sure what that means, but whatever. Just got back from yet another personal record night with the Monarch Plus RC3. Think I will just stick with it.

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    Maiden ride tomorrow......incredibly stoked!

    Darren

    2015 Range-img_20150612_203932.jpg

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    All I need now is a new dropper post.

    2015 Range-img_3915.jpg

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    Two sick looking bikes above.

    Darren - please be sure to let us know your post-ride thoughts. Have fun.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUSHIND View Post
    Maiden ride tomorrow......incredibly stoked!

    Darren

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did you remove the seat stay decals? If so, how. I've been thinking of removing those, the seat rail, and the wheel decals too. Too much color for my taste.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Did you remove the seat stay decals? If so, how. I've been thinking of removing those, the seat rail, and the wheel decals too. Too much color for my taste.
    Hey - I am a fan of fully murdered out frames, but decaled components:

    2015 Range-img_6759.jpg

    I didn't want to forever destroy the Norco decals on the frame and thought about using some flat black 3M vinyl to cover it. That stuff is $$$$$!!! So I ended up using simple electrical tape to cover the decals on the seat stays and top tube. You have to be close and looking for it to even notice the tape on there. Everyone who has seen it says it looks sick as shit, especially the top tube because the Range C2 is slightly raised under the tape, giving it a very subtle black on black look, consistent with the NORCO decals on the down tube.

    I cut all the ends rounded, if that makes sense. I have been on that bike an average of 5 rides a week since getting it, and have washed it lots. All of the the tape is still perfectly in place. The rounded corners help (I learned the rounding trick using KT Tape on various injuries over the years).

    You can murder out your components with the tape too. For the wheels, you will have to make a decision that will be irreversible - remove or not?

    Try the tape. It will cost you use $5 and 5 minutes. Mine looks killer. And it is all fully reversible if I change my mind down the road or decide to sell it. Could not be happier.

    PS - on an unrelated note, I also added a strip of black duct tape from top to bottom on the underside of the down tube to protect against flying shrapnel on the downs. Another cheap and visibly neutral mod.

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    Thanks for the reply. I'll try the electrical tape fix on the rear triangle and see how it looks. On the wheels I'll just remove them. I'll also do the down tube duct tape trick.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I'll try the electrical tape fix on the rear triangle and see how it looks. On the wheels I'll just remove them. I'll also do the down tube duct tape trick.
    How did things turn out?

  90. #90
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    To be honest I didn't like the look with the tape. I know that from far away you can barely notice it but my OCD won't let me do it.

    The wheels look good enough. I removed the INFERNO 27 part of the sticker and left the brand and logo. I'll post pictures later.

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    Sick bike w a sick rear shock!! Really looking fwd to your ride thoughts and setup!

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    To be honest I didn't like the look with the tape. I know that from far away you can barely notice it but my OCD won't let me do it.

    The wheels look good enough. I removed the INFERNO 27 part of the sticker and left the brand and logo. I'll post pictures later.
    Wow. That is shocking. I am pretty picky. The electric tape black out is a home run on my bike. Even with my picky friends. I wonder if our frames or our electric tape is a different colour. I will take some pics later and post them.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Wow. That is shocking. I am pretty picky. The electric tape black out is a home run on my bike. Even with my picky friends. I wonder if our frames or our electric tape is a different colour. I will take some pics later and post them.
    I think it has to do with your frame. You had less color to cover up. For mine I pretty much had to cover the whole seat stays.

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    2015 Range

    I ended up redoing the tape to cover just the RANGE letters. I don't love it but it's ok. Once I get some dirt on it I think it will blend better. Also did the rims with the hair dryer method. 2015 Range-imageuploadedbytapatalk1434836523.995048.jpg2015 Range-imageuploadedbytapatalk1434836545.524807.jpg2015 Range-imageuploadedbytapatalk1434836558.391782.jpg

  95. #95
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    You're right. I have much less decals to cover. As well, my tape is not nearly as noticeable. That said, your tape job is a definite improvement, in my opinion.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    You're right. I have much less decals to cover. As well, my tape is not nearly as noticeable. That said, your tape job is a definite improvement, in my opinion.
    Yeah I also think it's an improvement. It would be better with matte black tape but that'll have to to for now. I'll look into how to permanently remove the letters. If it's not too risky I'll do it.

  97. #97
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    Anyone having issues with tire rub? I'm running High Rollers II 2.3 front and back and noticed tire rub on both ends. Could it be that my spokes need tensioning?

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    I would say thats not right - I have a sight with even bigger meats on wide rims and not rub whatsoever... something like spoke retensioning may be an issue - also - be sure to check the pivot points in rear - i was riding my sight and it seemed it was "off" to me in the rear - deflecting, and kinda giving me some waggle in the rear on the fast chunky stuff - turned out a couple of pivots had loosen so there was some play side to side in the rear swinger - not a fun feeling

  99. #99
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    Thanks kamper. I'll check pivots and if that's not it I'll take it to the shop to check the wheels.

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    Check the pivots, check the thru-axles, check the hubs, check the spoke tension. I had the stock wheels lose tension on me on the very first ride (granted, I was being quite abusive on purpose) and had the shock mounting bolts loosen off after a couple weeks. Everything stayed tight without further work once I worked my magic on them, apparently factory loctite and wheel builds aren't rated for hell abuse.

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    There is some insanely good looking bikes on here! I'm super close to pre ordering a 2016 range, and just have questions about sizing. How tall are youguys and what size did you go with?

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    I'm 5'9'ish and went with a medium. I did find it too short at times for me which caused back pain on longer technical climbs. The large suited me better for climbs but was too long for descending. For the range, I really needed am M/L, which they don't make. I'd really encourage a demo because there were a few rides that I had to turn back on because of the back pain so if that is something you suffer from make sure sizing is right. I did play with different stem lengths but found handling was sacrificed too much if I went long enough to alleviate back pain. Other than that, one of the most fun bikes I've ever ridden!

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brookstar View Post
    There is some insanely good looking bikes on here! I'm super close to pre ordering a 2016 range, and just have questions about sizing. How tall are youguys and what size did you go with?
    How tall are you and what is your inseam?

    Erik

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    Inseam is irrelevant as the ranges have insanely low standover and with a wealth of seatpost length options, it won't factor in. The more important sizing measurements, if you want to get technical about it, are femur, torso and arm length to work out the reach requirements. That will play a bigger factor in fit than simply inseam measurement (which is more of a factor on road fits that have more fixed/static riding positions.

  105. #105
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    BigMike,

    I disagree with that statement if you plan to eventually outfit your bike with a 150mm dropper. I agree with the rest of your post. The Range begs for a longer dropper post. I have run into this on my SIght. Would love to get a 150mm dropper but the seat tube won't allow it.

    Erik

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    thanks for getting back to me! Im 5"9 with a 32' inseam. I rolled around a parking lot on a medium but there wasnt any larges. The med is closer to my current medium rocky mountain slayer, but I like the idea of going abit longer. The reach seems good on the large but Im worried the stack might be a bit much. bigmike do you know your inseam measurement?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brookstar View Post
    thanks for getting back to me! Im 5"9 with a 32' inseam. I rolled around a parking lot on a medium but there wasnt any larges. The med is closer to my current medium rocky mountain slayer, but I like the idea of going abit longer. The reach seems good on the large but Im worried the stack might be a bit much. bigmike do you know your inseam measurement?
    I'm 6'1" and have ordered a large. Both with a 50mm stem the measurements are close to identical to my Spesh Enduro Large which I'm happy with, the Range will have about 10 to 15mm more reach but everything else is pretty close. Was tempted to go XL but I think I'll be happy with my choice.
    Looking forward getting it, hopefully in a month or so.

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brookstar View Post
    thanks for getting back to me! Im 5"9 with a 32' inseam. I rolled around a parking lot on a medium but there wasnt any larges. The med is closer to my current medium rocky mountain slayer, but I like the idea of going abit longer. The reach seems good on the large but Im worried the stack might be a bit much. bigmike do you know your inseam measurement?
    My inseam is 32" and while the medium felt good overall I did wish it was longer in reach but that would have sacrificed handling it other areas for me, which is why didn't go with the large in the end (had the opportunity for either), but that was person preference. I think the medium will still be best for you, and if you find you get some back pain, try going with a lower gearing or go with a new oval ring, which apparently do wonders for chronic back and k ee pain on the bike.

    In any event, I think the medium will be your best bet! Enjoy! It's a pretty awesome bike!

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    thats exciting you get it in a month! I think the large range has about 10mm less then a large enduro no? or maybe I'm missing something?
    bigmike I almost had my self sold on a large but you are totally making me rethink haha. I was thinking large range because its geo is really close to size medium transition patrol, the new evil up insurgent and gaint reign (the reign has a reach between L and XL!). I also was thinking if the reach did feel long I could do 35mm stem and then it would be only 5mm longer, but did you think the handling was slower and not really more stable going down? Im super excited about the bike tho!!

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigmike9699 View Post
    My inseam is 32" and while the medium felt good overall I did wish it was longer in reach but that would have sacrificed handling it other areas for me, which is why didn't go with the large in the end (had the opportunity for either), but that was person preference. I think the medium will still be best for you, and if you find you get some back pain, try going with a lower gearing or go with a new oval ring, which apparently do wonders for chronic back and k ee pain on the bike.

    In any event, I think the medium will be your best bet! Enjoy! It's a pretty awesome bike!

    With your 32" inseam, what height are you?

    Just ordered a large frame set on blowout from 2015 and was really torn between the medium and large. I have a 32" inseam at 5'11" with longer arms and hoping i didn't get it wrong.

    On a side note, why the hell is the Norco forum so quiet compared to some of the other brands.....?

    Hopefully have the new frame built up by the end of the week for riding

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idaho View Post
    Just ordered a large frame set on blowout from 2015 and was really torn between the medium and large. I have a 32" inseam at 5'11" with longer arms and hoping i didn't get it wrong.
    You're the same height and have pretty much the same measurements as me. The large is definitely the right size for you, I've been riding my large Range since March and have no complaints about the fit or riding position.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idaho View Post
    On a side note, why the hell is the Norco forum so quiet compared to some of the other brands.....?
    People give up after experiencing the Norco wait....
    Just been told my 2016 Range delivery is delayed another month.
    Sounds familiar....

  113. #113
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    Not every bike company has their full lineup of 2016 models available in 2015. The bike industry isn't the car industry where everyone has their new models out by September. Right now Norco is shipping their 2016 fat bikes and cross bikes, the rest of the lineup will trickle in over the winter and early spring.

  114. #114
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    We have cross bikes, fatbikes, Carbon Aurums, Carbon Sights, Alloy Sights and Alloy Ranges in stock, all 2016, just waiting on Carbon Ranges and Alloy Aurums. They were scheduled for mid October but have been pushed back to late November. We are into our spring already here with Summer getting close. It's not unusual for Australia to see them first because of our seasons.

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    Australia. That makes sense now. All we have here in Canada for 2016 models are cross bikes, fat bikes, Fluids, and carbon Aurums, with a few other entry to mid level bikes here & there.

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    I think you were right to order a large, I'm even alittle shorter then you and I went with a large. if you look at a transition patrol, or something like that new evil insurgent the mediums are the same as the large ranges. Cool that you found a good deal on a 2015, it sucks waiting for the new ones to show up!

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    Hi guys ! I'm new on this page and i need some advice about the size for my range 2016.
    I'm 184cm with long arms and 89cm inseam wit. I tried both L and XL on monday on a fast track... The XL felt really stable but a bit long with a 50mm stem(would like to try it with a 30mm stem). On the L a was a bit too much on the front but both bikes weren't adjust on the suspension.

    I'm pretty bother about ordering the good size for me and the rest of my team. I'm gonna race EWS with this bike so i really don't want to make a mistake about the size. What you guys are riding and how tall are you ? What do you think ?

    Tanks a lot guys

    Joey

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joooey View Post
    Hi guys ! I'm new on this page and i need some advice about the size for my range 2016.
    I'm 184cm with long arms and 89cm inseam wit. I tried both L and XL on monday on a fast track... The XL felt really stable but a bit long with a 50mm stem(would like to try it with a 30mm stem). On the L a was a bit too much on the front but both bikes weren't adjust on the suspension.

    I'm pretty bother about ordering the good size for me and the rest of my team. I'm gonna race EWS with this bike so i really don't want to make a mistake about the size. What you guys are riding and how tall are you ? What do you think ?

    Tanks a lot guys

    Joey
    hey Joooey, I think you could be ok either way. depends on what you are riding, steep and fast XL, jumps and manuals L. The stack height is pretty high if you size up , so if you get a chance to sit on an alloy one make sure the seat can go low enough for you. I ended up going with a large and I'm 178cm with a an 81cm inseam.I picked a large because the large geo is so close to the the medium geo of other bikes I was interested in

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    Ordered a closeout 2015 Range 7.4C, hoping its ready for a ride this weekend. It's replacing a 2007 GT iDrive 5 frame with mostly 2003-ish components. This will be my first brand new bike since my parents bought me a walmart bike when i was in 7th grade, all my other bikes since then have been used hand me downs from friends.

  120. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwjnky View Post
    Ordered a closeout 2015 Range 7.4C, hoping its ready for a ride this weekend. It's replacing a 2007 GT iDrive 5 frame with mostly 2003-ish components. This will be my first brand new bike since my parents bought me a walmart bike when i was in 7th grade, all my other bikes since then have been used hand me downs from friends.
    Hopefully you get it before Saturday's ride!

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    I ended up redoing the tape to cover just the RANGE letters. I don't love it but it's ok. Once I get some dirt on it I think it will blend better. Also did the rims with the hair dryer method. Click image for larger version. 

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    What parts did you use for your 1x conversion? It looks like you don't have a front chain guide either. Any issues with the chain coming off on DH sections? I'd like to do 1x on my Range to save some weight and the people I talked to said to not do the conversion without a guide up front.

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by F8L View Post
    Hopefully you get it before Saturday's ride!
    I hope so but I didn't hear from them today. They said if it's there by Thursday I should be able to pick it up on Friday. If I can't pick it up till next week I won't be able to ride till the 21st.

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    I've always had to run guides on other bikes (not 1X)... I didn't run a guide for a few months and never dropped the chain once. Ended up putting one on that I had from a previous bike for the bahs protection but wouldn't hesitate to not use the guide if I didn't already have it.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  124. #124
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    2015 Range

    Quote Originally Posted by bmwjnky View Post
    What parts did you use for your 1x conversion? It looks like you don't have a front chain guide either. Any issues with the chain coming off on DH sections? I'd like to do 1x on my Range to save some weight and the people I talked to said to not do the conversion without a guide up front.
    I used a OneUp 42t cog, OneUp RAD Cage and a Raceface 30t NW ring. Setup is good 90% of the time but I've had a couple of dropped chains on long technical/rough DH sections. I'll probably get an MRP Micro before next season.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    I used a OneUp 42t cog, OneUp RAD Cage and a Raceface 30t NW ring. Setup is good 90% of the time but I've had a couple of dropped chains on long technical/rough DH sections. I'll probably get an MRP Micro before next season.
    Thanks for the info. Doing some rough calculations with the claimed weight online for my stock front shifter stuff going 1x will save about 550g and that doesn't factor in going to one single almn front ring and possibly an XT Shadow+ rear derailleur. My end goal is getting sub 30 pounds on a budget but I probably won't get close to that goal till the end of this next riding season since I used all my spare cash on the bike itself. I'm interested to see how close to my goal I can get without doing wheels.

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwjnky View Post
    Thanks for the info. Doing some rough calculations with the claimed weight online for my stock front shifter stuff going 1x will save about 550g and that doesn't factor in going to one single almn front ring and possibly an XT Shadow+ rear derailleur. My end goal is getting sub 30 pounds on a budget but I probably won't get close to that goal till the end of this next riding season since I used all my spare cash on the bike itself. I'm interested to see how close to my goal I can get without doing wheels.
    You should check out online deals for the new 11 speed XT group. It's very reasonably priced. Jenson had some good deals a while ago.

  127. #127
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    I have a 2015 Range CF X1 drive train and have recently picked up a Sram XX1 168 Q-factor crankset on Craigslist for a good price. The trouble is the cranks didn't come with the side bearing tension adjuster ring (which I can get) BUT does the XX1 crankset need the adjuster ring? or are just the wavey washers and seals enough? (I will be getting a Tru-Vativ PF30 BB soon?

  128. #128
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    Got my 2015 Range 7.4C today. I could have gotten better components on an almn. version but wanted the carbon frame and this bike is a huge upgrade from my 2007 GT iDrive 5.

    2015 Range-img_20151113_125648.jpg

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwjnky View Post
    Got my 2015 Range 7.4C today. I could have gotten better components on an almn. version but wanted the carbon frame and this bike is a huge upgrade from my 2007 GT iDrive 5.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks good!

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    Super stoked for you man. It's a great color scheme too! The new ones are so so.

  131. #131
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    Yeah I like that color scheme too. I got the 7.3 for the pike but the color is too bright for my taste.

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    My Range did well on its first ride Saturday but I feel the pressure recommendations for the front fork are a little high. I'm running it about 10-15 less than the chart on the fork says and it still feels really firm. Also the seat is really grippy and doesn't let me make the slight body adjustments while seated that I'm used to doing. Any suggestions how to get some slide in my seat without replacing it? The stock seat fits me well otherwise so I'd rather not spend the money on a new one right now.

  133. #133
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    This is mine. It took a while to get all together, but I can't be happier for having it. I'm still waiting for XX1 cranks, rear xx1 derrailleur and a new Selle San Marco saddle. Hope I will get it in not too long.

    Hope you like it

    2015 Range-img_20151114_095913.jpg

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwjnky View Post
    My Range did well on its first ride Saturday but I feel the pressure recommendations for the front fork are a little high. I'm running it about 10-15 less than the chart on the fork says and it still feels really firm. Also the seat is really grippy and doesn't let me make the slight body adjustments while seated that I'm used to doing. Any suggestions how to get some slide in my seat without replacing it? The stock seat fits me well otherwise so I'd rather not spend the money on a new one right now.
    I had the same issue. After a couple of rides the seat smoothed out quite a bit. Give it a few more rides and see if it gets better.

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    How many red tokens are in your Pike? Mine came with 1 on my 2015 Range and I added 2 which allows me to run a slightly lower pressure and what I feel is a smoother initial small bump feel and the front end still doesn't dive as much ass the stock set up when hitting bumps while descending. If you think about it they are essentially just space fillers so with fewer spacers in there you will have a more linear feel to the fork and when adding more you will have a more progressive ramping up of support as the fork compresses. it so easy to do it literally takes 3-5 min to change the number of tokens which
    gives you a different ride quality. worth experimenting with to tune in your fork.

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by RTurner View Post
    How many red tokens are in your Pike? Mine came with 1 on my 2015 Range and I added 2 which allows me to run a slightly lower pressure and what I feel is a smoother initial small bump feel and the front end still doesn't dive as much ass the stock set up when hitting bumps while descending. If you think about it they are essentially just space fillers so with fewer spacers in there you will have a more linear feel to the fork and when adding more you will have a more progressive ramping up of support as the fork compresses. it so easy to do it literally takes 3-5 min to change the number of tokens which
    gives you a different ride quality. worth experimenting with to tune in your fork.
    Not sure if you are talking to me or not but my Range has the X-Fusion Sweep RL2 fork. Doing some research it looks like it can take a few rides to break in so I'm just going to try different pressures for now and keep my pump on me during rides. It's not horrible just doesn't have the small bump compliance I was used to from a spring/oil fork I used to have on my old bike. The X-Fusion shock feels pretty plush and could probably use 5-10 more psi because I used most of its travel on a mostly XC ride last weekend.

  137. #137
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    My bad bmwjnky, my info only applies to the Pike fork set up.

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    Put another ride on my Range this weekend and dropped the pressure a little more in my fork and it's starting to feel really nice. Not sure where the pressure is at because I just gave it a quick stab on the valve. At this point I'm going to leave it alone and just put more rides on it. I did learn not to be directly over the valve when releasing pressure as it will blast a little oil in your face with the escaping air. I'm going out of town this weekend but hopefully the first weekend of December I'll put some more miles on it.

  139. #139
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    2015 Range-dsc_0203.jpg2015 Range-dsc_0202.jpg2015 Range-dsc_0212.jpg

    Just thought I would add some colour to this forum

  140. #140
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    Brookstar,

    Beautiful bike. The graphics on this are the best.

    Erik

  141. #141
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    Thanks buddy! I only have one ride on it so far but im stoked it, definitely a BEAST!!

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    Sizing... again...

    Sorry folks. I know recurring sizing questions can derail, but since I currently don't have an opportunity to test ride in my area, I'm asking you.

    I'm looking for a 650B all purpose bike, and the Range is on the very short list.

    I'm 6 ft 1 (185cm) with a (90cm) inseam.

    I have time on Spesh Enduros (26 and 29) and a Stumpjumer (29), all size large with reach numbers between 435 and 445 (and up to 457mm on the 26" Enduro) – and 40mm stems on the Enduros and 60mm on the Stumpy.

    Normally, I would have felt L should fit, but I recently test rode a large 2016 650B Stumpjumper which felt really, really, awfully short, even though the reach should be larger than on the 29er Stumpy.

    What I'm trying to say is that sometimes the geometry on paper is, well, on paper and reality feels different. I'd like to ride my bike with a 50mm stem, if possible.

    So I want to make sure, and it would be great if some of you could give me your height, inseam and frame size for reference.

  143. #143
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    Either would be ok i think. Im inbetween medium and large and went with large, the only thing that sucks about sizing up is the seat tube angle gets really slack in the bigger sizes. So make you you are ok with that

  144. #144
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    Keep in mind that the chainstays get longer on the larger bikes too. Wouldn't that affect the way the bike feels (poppy or playfulness) if you opted for a larger frame though you could probably use the next size smaller?

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    Good points, thanks. @Brookstar Yes, the seat angle is also something I'm a bit wary of (coming from 75°/74° seat angles). Chain stay growth may compensate a bit? Any of you guys with rather long legs have problems on the Range with seated climbing?

    @F8L I think I'm fine with the chain stays (coming from Spesh Enduros, I appreciate short stays but I'd rather go a slight little longer this time, and 430/434 rear centre is not too long). I really appreciate the growing chain stay for the balanced ride.

    I'd prefer the large for the wheelbase and the seat tube (XL's 510 might be a bit high for a 150 dropper).

    My main issue on the L is the reach, I'm not sure 435 is enough. I've been on bikes with 435 / 445 reach that feel perfectly fine (E29, Stumpy 29), and on bikes with about the same that feel much shorter than their reach numbers suggest (for instance, new Stumpy 650B at 442 feels MUCH shorter in comparison to all the other bikes I've ridden with similar reach, no matter if they were 29er, 650B or 26" – on this bike I felt too far back on the back wheel, even compared to a 26" Enduro, which has the same short rear centre).

    I'll have to test ride and report, but until then, please keep the ideas/feedback coming.

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    Unless you have ape arms, I think the large would be the better fit for you. I'm 5'11 with about a 32" inseam and ape arms, my large Range fits just about perfect. You're a couple inches taller than me but all that extra height is in your legs and then some. Once you get your seat height set it's going to be 3-4" higher than mine, which would put the seat about an inch further back than mine is and lengthen the seat to handlebar distance by the same amount. For reference, if I measure from the middle of the handlebar clamp on the stem to the imaginary line where the center of the seatpost meets the saddle, I get a distance of 68cm. Measure out your bikes the same way and see if they're reasonable close to that distance, it gives a much better feel than reach or top tube numbers. All my bikes are in the 66-71cm range and I find the feel matches pretty well with the measurement.

  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    Unless you have ape arms, I think the large would be the better fit for you. I'm 5'11 with about a 32" inseam and ape arms, my large Range fits just about perfect. You're a couple inches taller than me but all that extra height is in your legs and then some. Once you get your seat height set it's going to be 3-4" higher than mine, which would put the seat about an inch further back than mine is and lengthen the seat to handlebar distance by the same amount. For reference, if I measure from the middle of the handlebar clamp on the stem to the imaginary line where the center of the seatpost meets the saddle, I get a distance of 68cm. Measure out your bikes the same way and see if they're reasonable close to that distance, it gives a much better feel than reach or top tube numbers. All my bikes are in the 66-71cm range and I find the feel matches pretty well with the measurement.
    Thanks, this is helpful. My bikes measure in the 66-69 cm range. I'd say reach and stack are important, as well, for out of the saddle position.

    So I'd need to take into account the distance from BB to middle of the stem (between 84 and 86 cm).

    My main issue is that I prefer short stems (ideally ~40mm, 780mm bar with 1" rise) and I'm not sure the large frame's reach will be long enough. I wouldn't want to put a 60mm stem on it.

    What stem length do you ride on yours?
    What bar (length, rise)?

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vanguard View Post
    I'd say reach and stack are important, as well, for out of the saddle position.

    So I'd need to take into account the distance from BB to middle of the stem (between 84 and 86 cm).

    My main issue is that I prefer short stems (ideally ~40mm, 780mm bar with 1" rise) and I'm not sure the large frame's reach will be long enough. I wouldn't want to put a 60mm stem on it.

    What stem length do you ride on yours?
    What bar (length, rise)?
    Center of BB to center of stem is a bit under 83cm, I have a 50mm stem on my bike with a 10mm spacer under it. Bars are 780mm with 1" rise.

    For what it's worth I find I barely notice the standing position differences on my bikes, the BB to stem distance is anywhere from 79-84cm on my bikes and when I'm standing on them I don't feel any real difference in length. The reach & stack measurements are all over the place too, going by the geometry charts and some rough measurements they vary by 3-4cm on my bikes, possibly more.

    To me at least, the stem to seat distance is far more noticeable, 1cm there and I can easily feel it. When I'm standing I'm moving all over the place and trying to hold onto the bike, so a few cm difference in reach is not something I really notice.

  149. #149
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    I was following this thread while picking my bike, so i thought I should show what I ended up with...2015 Range-img_2727.jpg

  150. #150
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    Some weight saving upgrades have been done since the last time I posted. Got some new Vittoria tubeless wheels and converted to tubeless, and did a 1x conversion. My bike is at about 30 pounds now, the scale was jumping between 30.06 and 29.8 pounds. All other components are stock 7.4C pieces so I think I can shave another half to a whole pound off the bike throughout the season by changing bars, stem, seat post, cranks, tires, cassette and chain.


  151. #151
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    I need a new lower shock bolt.
    Where can I get one online?
    I have tried in local stores but had no luck...

  152. #152
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    Hit us up... 415-453-0333.. Krakatoa Bikes

  153. #153
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    Resurrecting this thread for opinions on a rear shock upgrade over my Monarch Plus R (i.e. No compression switch). Currently considering a used CC DBAir CS.

  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Resurrecting this thread for opinions on a rear shock upgrade over my Monarch Plus R (i.e. No compression switch). Currently considering a used CC DBAir CS.
    FWIW, I had a Monarch Plus Debonair RC3 on my Range C7.2 and swapped it out for a CCDB Inline. There are some really good deals on the Inline due to all of the issues that they had, but all of the new ones have the redesigned seals and I haven't had any issues. It s a great shock and I love all of the adjustments that the Monarch didn't have. I wanted the Fox X2, but couldn't justify the price. It's also very lightweight. I'm very happy with it.

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Resurrecting this thread for opinions on a rear shock upgrade over my Monarch Plus R (i.e. No compression switch). Currently considering a used CC DBAir CS.
    I am close to going coil on mine. On the recommendation of a pro rider on the Shore, I am close to pulling the pin on a CCDB Coil CS with a 500 lb Valt spring. Also looking at an 11-6 but gawddamm, you need to be P Diddy to be able to throw down on one of those. I am almost done with air sprung suspension. It's just no good for the terrain I ride.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Washirican3 View Post
    Resurrecting this thread for opinions on a rear shock upgrade over my Monarch Plus R (i.e. No compression switch). Currently considering a used CC DBAir CS.
    I am close to going coil on mine. On the recommendation of a pro rider on the Shore, I am close to pulling the pin on a CCDB Coil CS with a 500 lb Valt spring. Also looking at an 11-6 but gawddamm, you need to be P Diddy to be able to throw down on one of those. I am almost done with air sprung suspension.*** It's just not optimal for the terrain I ride.

    If you want to stick with air, I would beg, borrow and steal to get an X2. Best to spend a bit more and go through this process once and be happy. You may need to rent a ShockWiz though to get it set up, given its complexity. I have a few buddies who struggled at the front end dialling in the X2.

    ***air sprung rear that is, until the industry produces some nice coil fork offerings.

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    @Mike.
    Do u have had some trouble with your horst links in the back? mine have some "play" , if i tighten the bolts with 6nm its gone for a short ride. then it has play agian. if i check the bolt, it is tightened. so my thought is those small discs are not tight enough or the bracket has play. the bearings are okay...dont need to change.

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by darsannn View Post
    Do u have had some trouble with your horst links in the back? mine have some "play" , if i tighten the bolts with 6nm its gone for a short ride. then it has play agian. if i check the bolt, it is tightened. so my thought is those small discs are not tight enough or the bracket has play. the bearings are okay...dont need to change.
    I will check but I don't believe I have any play. That said, I had a Spesh FSR SJ back in the day whose ass end loosened up literally every ride. I suppose I should be more vigilant about this.

  159. #159
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    What's the widest tire that will fit?

    I'm thinking of going "wide" on my '15 C7.2. Does anyone know if the Range will fit a Maxxis Minion DHR 2.6"?

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