Jet 9 1 Star Builds- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Jet 9 1 Star Builds

    I was comparing the Alloy to RDO 1 Star builds today, and had a couple questions about the parts spec’d. Mainly the fork and wheels. How “price point” are they. I’m 6’ and 250lbs currently and I’m worried about riding on entry level wheels and forks at my size. If I go this route, do you think I would be better off with the RDO frame and “Niner Alloy Wheels” or the Alloy frame and putting the difference into something like a good set of Flow/DT 350 wheels?


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  2. #2
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    For my 2c, for your mass, I'd say you should do what TitusQuasi did and skip the JET and go with a RIP and tune it for more trail-ee type use ... basically shortening the fork to ~140 (maybe).

    For most of my adult MTB time I've been between 210 and 230, so a bit less than you, but still with some of the same Clydesdale issues and the things that make me advocate the RIP9 over the JET9 for you include

    - longer stroke shock (better handles heavier riders)
    - more robust fork
    - more robust frame (maybe, nobody has made it clear the difference in strength/durability between the two but the design targets are different and the JET9 is marginally lighter for a reason)

    To do the budget version I'd say go with the alloy RIP9 and get those Flow Mk3 wheels built around either Hope or Industry 9 hubs.

    I *feel* that the Yari fork on the lower models loses a lot of damper quality compared to either the Rockshox forks that have the Charger damper ( Lyric or Pike ) and to the Fox 36, but it is a lot less expensive.

    I think that if you could figure out a deal you could afford on the 3 Star build ( Fox 36 Fork, Flow Mk3 rims ) you should go for it.

    When you think 1-star plus another 800-1000 for a wheelset, you're only ~600 off the 3-star build kit price. The 3-star build kit gets you significantly improved fork, brakes, crankset, and drivetrain (notable: Eagle GX 12 speed with lower low-gear than the 1-star build kit).

    I realize money limits are limits, but it seems to me something you should really think about. I've tried to go budget in the past and ended up paying more in the end, needlessly.

    The singular reservation of the kit on the 3-star that I have is the rear hub, mine came with the Neo hubset (shimano drivetrain) and it just didn't hold up. If the wheels have the current-gen Neo freehub (which has 2x the bearings) and the stronger axle that may no longer be an issue. That the new 3-star build comes with SRAM Eagle GX also may remove the problem (xD instead of Shimano cassette). Worst-case: Maybe swapping an Industry 9 Torch rear hub in for the Neo, *if* there's an issue. They can use the same spokes, so if done early it's a hub and single wheel rebuild to deal with.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
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    If it were me, Alloy frame with custom wheels, no question. Good wheels will offer a significant and noticeable improvement in your ride, especially for a Clyde. A strong, serviceable hub with wide rims make every ride better. The difference in frame materials will go completely unnoticed.

    If your worried about the fork performance you can always upgrade the damper down the line, or if you sell the stock wheelset you can cover the cost of the upgrade. The Fox 34 is an excellent platform.

    Go for the nice wheels.
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  4. #4
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    I was also going to recommend the RIP over the Jet but I was waiting for someone more knowledgeable to chime in. I’m at 215 loaded up and blow through my JET travel pretty easy.

  5. #5
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    I am 6'2" and presently 240 lbs. I am riding the Jet9 1 star alloy. It is my interim bike while I wait for my Rocky Mountain Pipeline to come in.
    My riding buddy has a Rip 9 Alloy. I have time on both.

    The Rythem fork on the 1 star build has a stiff enough chassis for trail riding. The damper is way to linear for guys our weight. Volume spacers will be going in ! I'm hoping that will be enough to keep the fork from blowing through its travel.

    The NX1 stuff is fine. Not much to say about it. It changes gears.... No frills just fine.
    The wheels so far are strong enough but don't set up tubeless without some major effort. You could get tires with a tighter bead but I can't attest to whether they will solve the problems of the stock set up. Hands down, this would be the first item to go.

    Everything else is fine. The rear shock is fine, the travel range is adequate for trail riding. Geometry is all purpose albeit a little slack for my preference but easy enough to get used to.

    The RIP 9 has a better parts kit (alloy version) I believe two star. The SLX stuff is pretty bomber, the highlight for me is the brake set. The SRAM made brakes on the Jet are tolerable but lack a lot of refinement. There are no parts on the RIP I would feel the need to purge. Interestingly, the wheel set on the RIP set up tubeless with no fuss.

    The handling of the RIP for local trails isn't as maneagable as the JET. It's a lot of bike. Even with the higher end parts you feel the effort involved to keep the bike moving more then the JET. It definately mows over stuff with more authority then the JET. It feels a lot bigger and bulkier then the jET.

    After my time on both I think for moderate tech trails with shorter punchy climbs and lots of turns the JET would be my choice. Wheel set and tires would be an immediate upgrade for me. Followed by volume spacers in the FoX rhythm fork and a dropper post.. Next would be the brakes.

    I would buy the RIP if I was a hard charging rider with a lack of desire to develop finess
    Or my trails had sustained climbs with Long descents.

    I would still want a new wheel set for the alloy RIP but could wait longer to do it.

    Unfortunately, Niner no longer offers the alloy RIP9.

  6. #6
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    P.s. The above is just one mans opinion based on personal experience on my local trails.
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  7. #7
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    Seriously. You are going to break the Jet Alloy. I did and am 30 lbs less than you. Took less than 400 miles...Buy something else.

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