Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread - Page 3- Mtbr.com
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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    @the_pilot
    I'm trying to make some calculations with my current bike. I was wonder how much bb height I would lose when you goto a hybrid setup. (This is on a 29 bike) I was also wonder how much bb height I would lose going to full 27.5 set up.
    approx 5-7mm loss of BB height going to a hybrid. 15mm going to 27.5 full depending on the bike and the front centre. That can be offset (forgive the pun) by using offset bushes to lift the BB (but also steepen HA) if it's too much but the hybrid should be ok unless the BB is below 340mm already and depending on the travel. That can be compensated for by setting up the shock to keep the same dynamic BB (the most important measurement, the static is only a starter for 10) but it can come with compromises. Easiest is to add damping initially or reduce sag or reduce air spring volume, which can also be compensated for (in terms of feel/small bump) in some shocks by adjusting the neg spring.
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  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    approx 5-7mm loss of BB height going to a hybrid. 15mm going to 27.5 full depending on the bike and the front centre. That can be offset (forgive the pun) by using offset bushes to lift the BB (but also steepen HA) if it's too much but the hybrid should be ok unless the BB is below 340mm already and depending on the travel. That can be compensated for by setting up the shock to keep the same dynamic BB (the most important measurement, the static is only a starter for 10) but it can come with compromises. Easiest is to add damping initially or reduce sag or reduce air spring volume, which can also be compensated for (in terms of feel/small bump) in some shocks by adjusting the neg spring.

    What's head angle change? I thought it was about 2 degrees
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    What's head angle change? I thought it was about 2 degrees
    Nah not that much going to hybrid, around a degree I suspect. It's typically much easier to go from 27.5 to hybrid than 29. What bike is it?
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  4. #404
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    Is it possible to post some more photos of the hybrid especially from the side?

  5. #405
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    yep, working at the moment though. I'll have a look. Anything specific?
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  6. #406
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    Nothing specific. Just some side photos.

  7. #407
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    It's a custom build from mojo.
    Quick geo
    Hta 63.5
    BB 342.5
    Reach 500
    Stack 615
    Sta 77
    Fork travel 160
    Rear travel 147 with 215x64

    This is in the "low" position
    I was going to try a hybrid in the "high" position BB should be close to stock height and head tube in some where in 63 range

  8. #408
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    Hey Pilot,

    To be a pain, can you confirm the BB for the 155mm 29er then. Is that close to standard G16?

    I understand your explanation on the 175mm 29er, to high and for some, to much compromise.

    I'm not sure if you have previously stated the 155mm 29er BB though. Are the other geo figures the same as standard G16 to?

    Thank you

  9. #409
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    10mm higher without bushes and in the 222 position. Itís spot on.
    HA is approx 62deg, SA 76deg.


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  10. #410
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    @the_pilot how can I make my fork 170 29er? do you have any part numbers. Do I need to swap to an EVOL spring or can I still use the old style air spring?
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  11. #411
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    The spring and damper are the same across wheel sizes. You just need 29er lowers. If you buy a complete 29er fork from Fox, it will also come with a CSU assembly with more offset than a 650b CSU (which in turn has more offset than a 26 one), but they're all interchangeable, and frankly I prefer less offset anyway.

    Switching to the new EVOL spring requires a new CSU (in your choice of offset) because it uses a dimple inside of the stanchion to equalize the positive and negative chambers. The 2015-17 air spring with the transfer shaft doesn't use that dimple, so forks that came equipped with that spring don't have it.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    @the_pilot how can I make my fork 170 29er? do you have any part numbers. Do I need to swap to an EVOL spring or can I still use the old style air spring?
    It depends on the Fork you have.
    Basically you want the 180mm 27.5 CSU assuming you have 29er lowers. Then just set the travel as per normal up to 180mm. But at 180mm the overlap is not high in 29 and the stiffness is affected.



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  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtails Are Better View Post
    The spring and damper are the same across wheel sizes. You just need 29er lowers. If you buy a complete 29er fork from Fox, it will also come with a CSU assembly with more offset than a 650b CSU (which in turn has more offset than a 26 one), but they're all interchangeable, and frankly I prefer less offset anyway.

    Switching to the new EVOL spring requires a new CSU (in your choice of offset) because it uses a dimple inside of the stanchion to equalize the positive and negative chambers. The 2015-17 air spring with the transfer shaft doesn't use that dimple, so forks that came equipped with that spring don't have it.
    What this fine chap, who also clearly knows what heís talking about said


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  14. #414
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    Pics side on. Hybrid, been riding in Finale Ligure these last few days. Including doing the 24hr Xc course in between shuttling DH days. All good fun. So dusty itís slippery and really blown out, a helluva suspension test, hard on the bikes.



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  15. #415
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    Thanks for the pics. It looks great.

  16. #416
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    Got 2018 27.5 170mm 36 with intention to raise to 180mm but won't be able to get an air shaft probably for some time ( stanchion measures 180mm tough). Any reason not to run 170mm 27.5 setup?

  17. #417
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    None, but you shouldnít need a new air shaft! Just remove the new spacer (need a pin tool) and move the top air shaft pin as per the Fox video and you have 180mm as far as Iím aware nothing has changed materially from 2017. I can check with Chris.
    Also remove the neg chamber rubber top out (cur it is easiest) for much better fork performance and compliance.


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  18. #418
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    NATO base Finale Ligure Hybrid.



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  19. #419
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    Couldn't find any solid info on how to adjust travel on 2018 forks. Some say you adjust with different air shafts. There's a vid on Fox youtube channel but doesn't really show you how. Seem they just use a different shaft, not sure. If Chris could share some info it'd be great!

  20. #420
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    The shaft is different to previous models. You could probably reduce the travel but no threads to be seen to join the spacers, don't know..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-2018-fox-36-factory-evol-suspension-fork04.jpg  


  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinDe View Post
    Couldn't find any solid info on how to adjust travel on 2018 forks. Some say you adjust with different air shafts. There's a vid on Fox youtube channel but doesn't really show you how. Seem they just use a different shaft, not sure. If Chris could share some info it'd be great!
    Just changed my 2018 to 140mm. Each change now requires an appropriate airshaft. I think they come in 10mm increments.

  22. #422
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    Where did you buy the shaft?

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinDe View Post
    The shaft is different to previous models. You could probably reduce the travel but no threads to be seen to join the spacers, don't know..
    On the previous years forks they used a variety of spacer strategies. The threaded ones are internal. There are 2 spacers on that diagram they are threaded together thus no exposed threads.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinDe View Post
    Where did you buy the shaft?
    Any Fox dealer can order it. Or I am pretty sure you can contact Fox directly and order parts as well.

  25. #425
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    No longer jut swop the top bolt to the appropriate travel setting and remove the neg spacers then. New air shaft. What a pita!


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  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    No longer jut swop the top bolt to the appropriate travel setting and remove the neg spacers then. New air shaft. What a pita!


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    Ok, that makes sense. Will take it apart and have a look. It currently measures 180 from dust seals to top of the stanchion. Will it settle to 170 after some use? It's new fork.

  27. #427
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    @ Pilot

    What tires (model & width) do you have on the hybrid?

  28. #428
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    It depends of course. Magic Mary SG on the front (but unavailable at the moment due to the addiction changeover so a snakeskin version) or Maxxis Shorty 2.35s.
    Rock razor SG Or Minion or Aggressor on the rear. Latter 2 for UK, RR for abroad.



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  29. #429
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    my 222x70 X2 went pear shaped in Finale, no damping and weeping oil. Wow, when you have no rebound it really makes you appreciate it.
    You can see I managed to get a 3 times used 216x63 Float X evol to use. reduced travel to 155mm but it was good. nice progressive feel, good pedalling, lively. Not as bottomless as the 222 X2 but I enjoyed it.
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  30. #430
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    ... and if we just ...

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_3733.jpgNicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_2509.png.png

    Stock geo with 29er

    IN 29er Ive been riding in the high mode more recently and I think the higher BB make it corner better

    The "high" mode with 650b rear (WTB I29 w/ maxis Griffin DH) and seem to have pretty close to stock low Geo, just switched to 165 cranks too.

    From personal experience I think the full on 29er is a bit much for super long geo. It much more to corner. The hybrid cornered easier and still plowed well even in a straight line I didn't feel like I lost much in stability. It seemed slightly more poppy maybe because your a bit lower behind the front axle. The most noticeable negative thing I felt was at slower speeds the rear wheel was falling into holes/brake bumps which felt a bit more ruff. But at speed I didn't notice this characteristic.

    Saying all this I'd like to try a full 650b version. I think 29er are inherently more stable so you don't need such a large chassis.

    Then 18' mojo look nice and very versatile but at 62.5 HTA I'd ride a long with a long shock and be happy about it.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  31. #431
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    Way off topic guys, but it's a genuine Geometron question.
    Cars!
    I've been running an AUDI A6 Avant Quato to for years (seems it's maybe dead) and the Longest Geometron fits in nicely with front wheel off. It has to lay over and slide in but that's fine.
    I am needing a replacement car. I'm in the UK.
    Probably another large estate - or 4x4 maybe.
    So, what are you guys using / recommending please? I'm a "keep the car for 10+ years" kinda guy. Vans are a possibility but when it comes to day to day use parallel parking etc they are surely compromised. I always looked enviously at the Transporter or transit but now I wonder.
    I know Pilot has a new pickup and loves it, but I'd like the bike locked inside for travelling ideally.
    Thanks.


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  32. #432
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    Anyone have a solid geo calculator?
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    Anyone have a solid geo calculator?
    To find out?


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  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Way off topic guys, but it's a genuine Geometron question.
    Cars!
    I've been running an AUDI A6 Avant Quato to for years (seems it's maybe dead) and the Longest Geometron fits in nicely with front wheel off. It has to lay over and slide in but that's fine.
    I am needing a replacement car. I'm in the UK.
    Probably another large estate - or 4x4 maybe.
    So, what are you guys using / recommending please? I'm a "keep the car for 10+ years" kinda guy. Vans are a possibility but when it comes to day to day use parallel parking etc they are surely compromised. I always looked enviously at the Transporter or transit but now I wonder.
    I know Pilot has a new pickup and loves it, but I'd like the bike locked inside for travelling ideally.
    Thanks.


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    The simplest answer would be to get the same one as you are already familiar with it and it works for you.
    It all depends on your budget, what you use the car for most. I've a Vw Amarok with sliding tray which makes loading/ unloading very handy, canopy provides some security. Front wheel off bike fits no problem (longest). Pickup is great but it is still a big car for our narrow b roads (Ireland). Maneuvering and parking without planning ahead could be tricky. We've s- max as family car and if it would be up to me that's the type of car I'd go for. Plenty of room for everything, great visibility, very economical, relatively cheap to run. There are few mpv options available.

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  35. #435
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    Hello, I need some help.
    Incoming GLF frame, and need some carbon cranks/bb combo what options do I have?
    As Nicolai told RF SIXc (83mm axle) are to narrow and with crank boots there is no clearance.
    Does sram XO1 DH BB30/GXP cranks fit frame/ what bb to choose?

    Any another carbon cranks option??

  36. #436
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    To find out some numbers. I'm currently running the hybrid but the bb is a bit low. I was playing with the idea of going to the long shock, so I'd have 167 in the rear then bumping up the fork to 170.
    The thing I was worried about was if I go long shock the bb would be even lower in sag.

    One other question is when adding height to the front IE; increasing fork length or external headset how much does it lift the BB. I calculated it to be something like 3MM more is 5mm in BB height?

    I know you could run offset bushing too and get about 5mm side but then I'll be going less slack.

    The set up I was kind of thinking of...
    170 29er fork/New shorter offset
    Works-5mm reach
    long shock - in long shock position
    2x offset bushings


    I think with this set up my BB will be at a reasonable height in sag HTA around 63.3 and the wheelbase won't length because the reduced offset fork and -5 reach.

    or

    Full 650B

    170 650B fork With work -5 Reach headset
    Long shock in Long position

    342BB and 64 HTA 77.5 STA

    I really am trying to make this frame work with 650B. I know most people on here wouldn't be happy with 64 HTA but thats ok with me.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------
    Last edited by thegromit; 11-01-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinDe View Post
    The simplest answer would be to get the same one as you are already familiar with it and it works for you.
    It all depends on your budget, what you use the car for most. I've a Vw Amarok with sliding tray which makes loading/ unloading very handy, canopy provides some security. Front wheel off bike fits no problem (longest). Pickup is great but it is still a big car for our narrow b roads (Ireland). Maneuvering and parking without planning ahead could be tricky. We've s- max as family car and if it would be up to me that's the type of car I'd go for. Plenty of room for everything, great visibility, very economical, relatively cheap to run. There are few mpv options available.

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    Thx DinDe
    Does the geometron go in the s-max with just one wheel off. Nice idea thanks.


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  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Thx DinDe
    Does the geometron go in the s-max with just one wheel off. Nice idea thanks.


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    Haven't tried but I'm confident it will no problem. I can check this evening. Galaxy would be the longest of them all. Wouldn't be surprised if you fit in with both wheels on.

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  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinDe View Post
    The simplest answer would be to get the same one as you are already familiar with it and it works for you.
    It all depends on your budget, what you use the car for most. I've a Vw Amarok with sliding tray which makes loading/ unloading very handy, canopy provides some security. Front wheel off bike fits no problem (longest). Pickup is great but it is still a big car for our narrow b roads (Ireland). Maneuvering and parking without planning ahead could be tricky. We've s- max as family car and if it would be up to me that's the type of car I'd go for. Plenty of room for everything, great visibility, very economical, relatively cheap to run. There are few mpv options available.

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    Thx DinDe
    Does the geometron go in the s-max with just one wheel off. Nice idea thanks.
    Neil


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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Thx DinDe
    Does the geometron go in the s-max with just one wheel off. Nice idea thanks.
    Neil


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    It does. I recon it would fit with 29er up front too. Galaxy is bit taller and longer if any interest.

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  41. #441
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    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread

    Hey, thanks, great to see the pic too. Would it stand up at the side, so get 2 in easily?
    Is that with the third tow of seats folded flat? Nice if you dont need to remove them.
    I'm gonna take a look. S-Max gets good write ups. Good tip on the Galaxy too. Even more space.


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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Hey, thanks, great to see the pic too. Would it stand up at the side, so get 2 in easily?
    Is that with the third tow of seats folded flat? Nice if you dont need to remove them.
    I'm gonna take a look. S-Max gets good write ups. Good tip on the Galaxy too. Even more space.


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    Never thought of checking if it could be standing upright. Don't see why not, will check it later. Third row of seats are folded flat.

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    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread

    I used to have a Galaxy. Really liked it. TBH Neil a T5 SWB kombi would do the trick easily and has the flexibility for no wheel off travel with one or two bikes with no difficulty.


    I never had any issues parking with sensors and camera's are easy to fit.

    The tourism shuttle buses are often good value compared to others due to the windows.

    However still too damned expensive really!
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  44. #444
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    I recommend a Ford F-350 long bed.
    Its the only safe option.

  45. #445
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    Option 1

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_3084.jpg

    Option 2

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_3399.jpg
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    I used to have a Galaxy. Really liked it. TBH Neil a T5 SWB kombi would do the trick easily and has the flexibility for no wheel off travel with one or two bikes with no difficulty.


    I never had any issues parking with sensors and camera's are easy to fit.

    The tourism shuttle buses are often good value compared to others due to the windows.

    However still too damned expensive really!
    Thx
    Yeah Kombi is a great choice but a 150,000 mile one seems average, thats a lot of miles. .


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  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    Option 1

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Option 2

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ď;~}


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  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    I recommend a Ford F-350 long bed.
    Its the only safe option.
    Iíd have a pickup if I lived in a hot country. But thereís still the ďlock bike inside carĒ advantage with van or estate. Maybe a pickup and a pit bull Ď;~}.


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  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Thx
    Yeah Kombi is a great choice but a 150,000 mile one seems average, thats a lot of miles. .


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    Yeah Galaxy. Thatís on the list. And Passat. Might think Japanese too.


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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    NATO base Finale Ligure Hybrid.



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    Why the Float X over the X2 for Finale?

    Looks stunning!

    Still waiting for my 29er/Hybrid Quote/Offer from Mojo but heard there moving this week, so i'm still patient!

    All is quicker than Nicolai Germany's current delivery times!

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Yeah Galaxy. Thatís on the list. And Passat. Might think Japanese too.


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    Before thinking of a Passat take a Skoda Superb II Combi! Mine is huge compared to a Passat especially with the seats foldes down! Only a MB E-Class T has a bigger trunk!

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post
    Before thinking of a Passat take a Skoda Superb II Combi! Mine is huge compared to a Passat especially with the seats foldes down! Only a MB E-Class T has a bigger trunk!
    Thx for the Skoda tip.
    Is it the VW Touran ďchassisĒ?

    N


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  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    Option 2

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    Heli biking at Mica Creek?

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    Heli biking at Mica Creek?
    revelstoke mt cartier
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  55. #455
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    Tallguy, yes Chris And Paul have been moving. Be back on it very soon. If you struggle let me know and Iíll give them a call.

    Simple answer on the Float X. My X2 died! Rebound damping disappeared after the flight, rode it without day 1 (scary!) then it began to leak oil. Chris sorting it under warranty but I couldnít find a 222 in Finale so got a 2018 Float x in 216 (all I could find) from bikeshop I know there.
    I missed the 175 travel a bit but the shock worked well.


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  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Thx
    Yeah Kombi is a great choice but a 150,000 mile one seems average, thats a lot of miles. .


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    Commercial vehicle designed for 250k miles plus tho like the trucks.


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  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Commercial vehicle designed for 250k miles plus tho like the trucks.


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    I have a large chain/lock attached to vandal proof bolt load hooks I use when itís in the back. More secure than any vehicle lock.
    The MultitaskR rack will also lock the bike when It arrives.

    a load cover is the other option. But a big car more sensible if youíre prepared to take the wheel off.


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  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Thx for the Skoda tip.
    Is it the VW Touran ďchassisĒ?

    N


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    Dont know which chassis it is but its similar to the Passat except for a much longer wheelbase! Perfect to fit a bike with 1,30m plus wheelbase in it!

  59. #459
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    If anybody is looking for a Ion-G16 (the german one) in full race spec and size L look no further:

    https://bikemarkt.mtb-news.de/articl...-grosse-l-2017

    It's the bike of the Nicolai team rider Cornelius Hoberg and i've already seen it live and its a looker! Unfortunately to small for me in size Large!

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Yeah Galaxy. Thatís on the list. And Passat. Might think Japanese too.


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    No issues with your old bike in a Passat estate, Neil, goes in with wheel off and one rear seat down - or wheel on and both seats down

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by honourablegeorge View Post
    No issues with your old bike in a Passat estate, Neil, goes in with wheel off and one rear seat down - or wheel on and both seats down
    Hey Ray,
    Thanks.
    Nice car the Passat. Owner reports online on reliability are dire though. (Auto express especially)
    So many chronic issues reported. So difficult to know if issues are widespread.
    My pal has an 07 with the awful parking brake that goes on but not off.
    I do like em though, but could vw have lost its way on build quality.
    Phil said about his galaxy (which was great) he'd never have bought one if he'd read reliability reports online.
    Subaru get good feedback, BMW too and Skoda are almost top rated!
    It'll be strange to have a vehicle that's worth more than my bike!

    Happy trails, glad you're still loving my original Geometron.


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  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post
    Dont know which chassis it is but its similar to the Passat except for a much longer wheelbase! Perfect to fit a bike with 1,30m plus wheelbase in it!
    Thx


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  63. #463
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    First touch and sighting

    Well I have never seen a Mojo in the flesh.

    Not sure why they used such a long box though...

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-long-box.jpg

    Oh, is that why

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-mojo-xl.jpg

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-mojo-.jpg

    I really like it.

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-mojo-shock.jpg

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-g16.jpg


    Superb frame

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-mojo-1.jpg

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-nic.jpg

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Well I have never seen a Mojo in the flesh.

    Not sure why they used such a long box though...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Oh, is that why

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I really like it.

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Superb frame

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What a black beauty! Black looks quite good on it! Especially with the orange DHX2!

    Are you running it on 27,5", 29" or Hybrid (29"/27,5")?

    I'm going for an X-Longest too! Mojo label looks mega on the frame! Even better than the Ion one on the non Mojo/Geometron frames from Nicolai!

  65. #465
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    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-2017-11-12-18.31.25.jpg

    killer looks, DHX2 on the mojo G16 ; )

  66. #466
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    Is that a long shock?

  67. #467
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    Yeah, and then you get the orange on the Fox fork decals and it is a very nice colour combo.

    It will be 27.5 and yes it is running as a 175mm rear with 180 up front.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by dingeske View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2017-11-12 18.31.25.jpg 
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    killer looks, DHX2 on the mojo G16 ; )
    Nice setup


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  69. #469
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    OK Pilot and everyone else - I could use some advice:
    I am wanting something that corners a little more stably, and provides a little more confidence/stability on steeps/at speed over rough. I have ridden a few bikes with varying results, but all fit me well for pedaling (TT=610-635): L '16 Canfield Balance, L & XL v3 SC Nomad, L Giant Reign, L Norco Range. I prefer 40-50 mm stem as a 32mm stem feels too twitchy on the techy steeps. I usually run a 170 mm or 180 fork (40-44 mm offsets).
    I race enduro. Not well. I also trail ride on a variety of trails. I suck at jumping, but love going fast over rough terrain, and the feeling of a railed corner.
    I figure that a longer bike would help, but my problem is that I don't like a low, long front as it makes me lean too much over the front end, and when my weak upper body and fatigue are factored in, I lose all confidence. I prefer a higher front end/stack, but would still like to be able to weight the front. I figure if I have a longer CS and the same F-C, then my weight on the pedals is more forward, and I am able to better weight the front tire for better cornering without having to get my weight on the bars as much, thereby saving energy and capitalizing on my strength (or rather, avoiding the deficiency that is my weak upper body). Right now, I am basically on the opposite of my theory, with 420 mm CS, and I just don't corner as well as I have on other bikes. I quite like the Balance, but am always looking to improve/tinker.
    Oh, I should add I am 183 cm tall, with 86 cm inseam and I order 89 cm sleeves on my shirts.
    Based on the TT that feels about right for pedaling up long slogs, and my preference for the slower steering that a 50 mm stem brings, I figure a small (Long) G16 is about right. It has the same TT that I have preferred on other bikes, but is ~25 mm longer in reach. The WB is quite a bit longer, and even with the slacker HTA, my weight would still be shifted forward when on the pedals vs. my other rides due to the 445 mm chainstays.
    I have 2 nice 12x142 wheelsets, a '18 170 mm 36, and two 216x63 shocks I like (CCDB coil CS and Bos Kirk), so I'm looking at non-boost, and found a small '16 G16 non-boost.
    Am I ridiculous to want a small?
    I appreciate all the talk about getting one's weight forward on the bars without fear of going OTB, but I just wonder if y'all are stronger in the upper body than me, which is why it works for you, but maybe not as much for me?
    I also wonder about clipping pedals, which I do a little too much here in the PNW... so if I'm going to slack out the HTA further (which it seems like y'all recommend - just how much though?), then maybe I want shorter cranks? I usually ride 170s - would it be weird to get 165s?
    I would LOVE to be able to do the demo thing, but the cost of a ticket to come visit is a bit prohibitive. So here I am, with geo charts, measurements, and a whole bunch of internet speculation. Hoping you can offer some advice.
    If I had my way, I'd buy a new G16 in black, boost, get new wheelsets, new fork, and custom-tuned suspension... but that's a lot of money for me. Hence my looking for a non-boost version and trying to see if that would still offer the benefits I'm looking for (I think it will?).
    TIA

  70. #470
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    Iím thinking. There is a lot in there..


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  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    OK Pilot and everyone else - I could use some advice:
    I am wanting something that corners a little more stably, and provides a little more confidence/stability on steeps/at speed over rough. I have ridden a few bikes with varying results, but all fit me well for pedaling (TT=610-635): L '16 Canfield Balance, L & XL v3 SC Nomad, L Giant Reign, L Norco Range. I prefer 40-50 mm stem as a 32mm stem feels too twitchy on the techy steeps. I usually run a 170 mm or 180 fork (40-44 mm offsets).
    I race enduro. Not well. I also trail ride on a variety of trails. I suck at jumping, but love going fast over rough terrain, and the feeling of a railed corner.
    I'll try to give answers point by point, hope this is OK... first I would say that one of these bikes would probably be what you are looking for. The G16 is the most confidence inspiring bike I've ever had, especially in terms of cornering and riding steep sections.

    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    I figure that a longer bike would help, but my problem is that I don't like a low, long front as it makes me lean too much over the front end, and when my weak upper body and fatigue are factored in, I lose all confidence. I prefer a higher front end/stack, but would still like to be able to weight the front. I figure if I have a longer CS and the same F-C, then my weight on the pedals is more forward, and I am able to better weight the front tire for better cornering without having to get my weight on the bars as much, thereby saving energy and capitalizing on my strength (or rather, avoiding the deficiency that is my weak upper body). Right now, I am basically on the opposite of my theory, with 420 mm CS, and I just don't corner as well as I have on other bikes. I quite like the Balance, but am always looking to improve/tinker.
    I think I see what you're saying here to some extent- basically that you think the short CS on the Balance results in too much of a rearward weight distribution? I would describe the Geometron as feeling like you are more centred in the bike and thus able to weight/drive the front end very easily. It doesn't feel like you are leaning out over the front end at all. I've never felt like the front end of my bike was too low.

    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    Based on the TT that feels about right for pedaling up long slogs, and my preference for the slower steering that a 50 mm stem brings, I figure a small (Long) G16 is about right. It has the same TT that I have preferred on other bikes, but is ~25 mm longer in reach. The WB is quite a bit longer, and even with the slacker HTA, my weight would still be shifted forward when on the pedals vs. my other rides due to the 445 mm chainstays.
    I have 2 nice 12x142 wheelsets, a '18 170 mm 36, and two 216x63 shocks I like (CCDB coil CS and Bos Kirk), so I'm looking at non-boost, and found a small '16 G16 non-boost.
    Am I ridiculous to want a small?
    I'm sure Pilot will have much more to say about this, but personally I would be cautious about translating numbers in isolation from more normal bikes to Geometrons because the Geometron has so many different parameters i.e. steep STA that all work together that it's difficult to make a meaningful comparison. FWIW I am roughly your size and had a large Niner WFO (i.e. relatively short reach of ~440 mm) before the Geometron, which is a Longest (~520mm reach). Despite that difference in reach (which to me on paper would seem significant) in practice I think I can get both bikes to feel "right" as in that I can pedal them all day without causing knee or back issues and feel comfortable moving the bike around on technical stuff. Also, in the process of deciding on the G16 I tried a medium G13 and thought that while I could certainly get a setup on it that would work, that it could be a bit longer. Subsequent to this I have also tried an XL and was surprised that it did not feel too big at all!
    With all that said I don't think I would choose a small, but if I were you I would see what Pilot says.

    Re. stem length, the last few similar bikes I had were set up with 50mm stems, but I've got a 35 on my bike now. I seem to remember trying the 50 I had but swapping it after the first ride because I wanted wider bars, as well as being curious to see which was better. Since to me the bike then felt better with the 800 mm bars and 35 mm stem I haven't felt the need to change it.

    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    I appreciate all the talk about getting one's weight forward on the bars without fear of going OTB, but I just wonder if y'all are stronger in the upper body than me, which is why it works for you, but maybe not as much for me?
    I would not worry about this, as I said above the bike seems to put you in a good position to weight each end of the bike as necessary. It feels very natural to ride, heavy feet light hands still very much applies IMO.

  72. #472
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    hey the_pilot ive been following this thread for a while and am based just south of gloucester in the UK.

    Really interested in what these Geometrons are like to ride as all round bikes. Im coming from an intense carbine 29 which it will be replacing but also have a kingdom bikes vendetta X2 Hardtail with 650b+/29er wheels which covers alternative duties.

    Im looking for something that i can use for 30-50km rides at trail centres in wales as well as uplift days etc but am a bit unsure what climbing will be like combared to my 29er carbon bike?? The issue with my current bike is purely down to the geometry so im hoping any gains in weight etc will be offset by much better frame geometry design etc?? slim chances i know but at the other end of the spectrum, i ride a lot of local technical steep trails and do the odd mini enduro race and whilst the 29er is fast in open sections, is too hard to manover round the really tight steep sections.

    for reference, im 6'3" with long limbs and a short back and currently riding an xl carbine with 475mm reach and 72 degree seat angle and a 50mm stem. struggle on really steep climbs.

    the longer shock option seems great to have as well with seemingly more manufacturers creating higher leverage frames on smaller shocks which aere perfectly fine for smaller lighter riders but i tend to struggle and end up at overlyhigh shock pressures.

    would be interested to hear your thoughts especially in relation to trails at Forest of Dean.

    Thanks

    Ross

  73. #473
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    Sounds perfect for you Ross if Iím honest everything you describe yes it does and does it very well. I suspect based on your size your either Longest or XL Iíd probably also suggest a hybrid with the 29 option if you wanted a long ride but I think itís just as good.
    Youíre a stones throw from Mojo HQ or me. Iíd be happy to meet at FoD and do a day with you or alternatively I suggest arranging that with Chris/Paul. That would cost but be refundable against a purchase. Up to you really.
    Your welcome to test mine. Just message me.


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  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    OK Pilot and everyone else - I could use some advice:
    I am wanting something that corners a little more stably, and provides a little more confidence/stability on steeps/at speed over rough. I have ridden a few bikes with varying results, but all fit me well for pedaling (TT=610-635): L '16 Canfield Balance, L & XL v3 SC Nomad, L Giant Reign, L Norco Range. I prefer 40-50 mm stem as a 32mm stem feels too twitchy on the techy steeps. I usually run a 170 mm or 180 fork (40-44 mm offsets).
    I race enduro. Not well. I also trail ride on a variety of trails. I suck at jumping, but love going fast over rough terrain, and the feeling of a railed corner.
    I figure that a longer bike would help, but my problem is that I don't like a low, long front as it makes me lean too much over the front end, and when my weak upper body and fatigue are factored in, I lose all confidence. I prefer a higher front end/stack, but would still like to be able to weight the front. I figure if I have a longer CS and the same F-C, then my weight on the pedals is more forward, and I am able to better weight the front tire for better cornering without having to get my weight on the bars as much, thereby saving energy and capitalizing on my strength (or rather, avoiding the deficiency that is my weak upper body). Right now, I am basically on the opposite of my theory, with 420 mm CS, and I just don't corner as well as I have on other bikes. I quite like the Balance, but am always looking to improve/tinker.
    Oh, I should add I am 183 cm tall, with 86 cm inseam and I order 89 cm sleeves on my shirts.
    Based on the TT that feels about right for pedaling up long slogs, and my preference for the slower steering that a 50 mm stem brings, I figure a small (Long) G16 is about right. It has the same TT that I have preferred on other bikes, but is ~25 mm longer in reach. The WB is quite a bit longer, and even with the slacker HTA, my weight would still be shifted forward when on the pedals vs. my other rides due to the 445 mm chainstays.
    I have 2 nice 12x142 wheelsets, a '18 170 mm 36, and two 216x63 shocks I like (CCDB coil CS and Bos Kirk), so I'm looking at non-boost, and found a small '16 G16 non-boost.
    Am I ridiculous to want a small?
    I appreciate all the talk about getting one's weight forward on the bars without fear of going OTB, but I just wonder if y'all are stronger in the upper body than me, which is why it works for you, but maybe not as much for me?
    I also wonder about clipping pedals, which I do a little too much here in the PNW... so if I'm going to slack out the HTA further (which it seems like y'all recommend - just how much though?), then maybe I want shorter cranks? I usually ride 170s - would it be weird to get 165s?
    I would LOVE to be able to do the demo thing, but the cost of a ticket to come visit is a bit prohibitive. So here I am, with geo charts, measurements, and a whole bunch of internet speculation. Hoping you can offer some advice.
    If I had my way, I'd buy a new G16 in black, boost, get new wheelsets, new fork, and custom-tuned suspension... but that's a lot of money for me. Hence my looking for a non-boost version and trying to see if that would still offer the benefits I'm looking for (I think it will?).
    TIA
    I think keeping it simple.
    It does sound like you would benefit from the kind of bike the GeoMetron is.
    I donít think you should worry about the front being lower you can adjust that with spacers if it feels like that. The front does come towards you due to the HA tho so again the numbers donít tell the whole story.

    I would be nervous about telling you to go for a small at your height and using a 50m stem. I could go with 40mm.
    A M would be fine.

    I appreciate the numbers are similar to previous bikes so it (the Small) wonít feel too different and yet may give you the benefits you want and certainly the Geometry benefits in terms of Chainstays, BB height, head angle, seat angle etc.

    I think if you do it I would add a -1 headset to it. That will compensate somewhat for your height and how you weight the front which will be further over the front than intended if you were on a M or L with 20-40mm more reach.
    Having said that if you are used to not driving the front as much and feel you have a weak top half the Small will be better as it will be more natural and require less adjustment.

    So on balance I think, based on your explanation, the Small would work for you.

    I also think it will hold its value if you find you do want to move to one of the larger sizes later.

    I would recommend not using a longer stem than 40mm though.
    If you decide not to add a -1 Angleset then you could use a +5mm reach adjust from works components to move it between s and M.
    Iíd also recommend using 165mm cranks.


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  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    OK Pilot and everyone else - I could use some advice:
    I am wanting something that corners a little more stably, and provides a little more confidence/stability on steeps/at speed over rough. I have ridden a few bikes with varying results, but all fit me well for pedaling (TT=610-635): L '16 Canfield Balance, L & XL v3 SC Nomad, L Giant Reign, L Norco Range. I prefer 40-50 mm stem as a 32mm stem feels too twitchy on the techy steeps. I usually run a 170 mm or 180 fork (40-44 mm offsets).
    I race enduro. Not well. I also trail ride on a variety of trails. I suck at jumping, but love going fast over rough terrain, and the feeling of a railed corner.
    I figure that a longer bike would help, but my problem is that I don't like a low, long front as it makes me lean too much over the front end, and when my weak upper body and fatigue are factored in, I lose all confidence. I prefer a higher front end/stack, but would still like to be able to weight the front. I figure if I have a longer CS and the same F-C, then my weight on the pedals is more forward, and I am able to better weight the front tire for better cornering without having to get my weight on the bars as much, thereby saving energy and capitalizing on my strength (or rather, avoiding the deficiency that is my weak upper body). Right now, I am basically on the opposite of my theory, with 420 mm CS, and I just don't corner as well as I have on other bikes. I quite like the Balance, but am always looking to improve/tinker.
    Oh, I should add I am 183 cm tall, with 86 cm inseam and I order 89 cm sleeves on my shirts.
    Based on the TT that feels about right for pedaling up long slogs, and my preference for the slower steering that a 50 mm stem brings, I figure a small (Long) G16 is about right. It has the same TT that I have preferred on other bikes, but is ~25 mm longer in reach. The WB is quite a bit longer, and even with the slacker HTA, my weight would still be shifted forward when on the pedals vs. my other rides due to the 445 mm chainstays.
    I have 2 nice 12x142 wheelsets, a '18 170 mm 36, and two 216x63 shocks I like (CCDB coil CS and Bos Kirk), so I'm looking at non-boost, and found a small '16 G16 non-boost.
    Am I ridiculous to want a small?
    I appreciate all the talk about getting one's weight forward on the bars without fear of going OTB, but I just wonder if y'all are stronger in the upper body than me, which is why it works for you, but maybe not as much for me?
    I also wonder about clipping pedals, which I do a little too much here in the PNW... so if I'm going to slack out the HTA further (which it seems like y'all recommend - just how much though?), then maybe I want shorter cranks? I usually ride 170s - would it be weird to get 165s?
    I would LOVE to be able to do the demo thing, but the cost of a ticket to come visit is a bit prohibitive. So here I am, with geo charts, measurements, and a whole bunch of internet speculation. Hoping you can offer some advice.
    If I had my way, I'd buy a new G16 in black, boost, get new wheelsets, new fork, and custom-tuned suspension... but that's a lot of money for me. Hence my looking for a non-boost version and trying to see if that would still offer the benefits I'm looking for (I think it will?).
    TIA
    I'm about your height, and am very happily on a Longer 2017 Mojo edition. I'm actually running 26" wheels on mine to lower the BB some, and a 180mm travel 2017 Fox 40. I also happen to be in Seattle, you mentioned that you're in the PNW?

  76. #476
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    I love how people find their own set ups.

    As a tentative toe in the water I would suggest a M/Longer as above for Erik.


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  77. #477
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    Has anybody got any experience with different handlebar rises? 20mm, 35mm, 40mm? Would it have big handling differences or it's just a personal preference?

  78. #478
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    No. But I did play with spacers under the stem. Found after a ride or two that I needed more spacers.
    I have 30mm FatBar XL carbon on the G16 and 20mm FatBar XL carbon on another bike and 30mm FatBar XL alloy on another so I could play with height more. I made the correct call with a 30mm bar on the G16

  79. #479
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    I can't comment on Geometrons (as I don't own one) but on my HT the bar height changes the weight onto the front wheel. Higher bars = less weight onto the front wheel and vice versa.

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    Alright, wanted to check with you guys if i'm on the right track here:

    I'm looking at the G13 for guiding and riding the trails on the west coast of norway. We have steep, rocky and rooty trails that are for the most part technical and sometimes pretty awkward due to that they are often old deer tracks. No riding on purpose built trails here.
    So does a G13 that is somewhat longshocked (say to squeeze out 140ish mm) and with a 150 mm fork sound like a good plan?
    I currently ride a Hightower (and have been riding SC bikes for many years) in size xl, and feel that it is a bit cramped, and definitely with too short chainstays. It is a fun, playful bike but loses composure when you hit roots and rocks at speed (you gotta gap as much as possible and "ride light"). At the same time it is a very precise bike, and i wouldn't want to compromise too much on that. So how would you rate the G13 on trails where you set up slow and then let go down a steep and narrow section?
    Anything else i should think about when trying to set up a G13 (or maybe another of the geometrons)?

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olaal View Post
    Alright, wanted to check with you guys if i'm on the right track here:

    I'm looking at the G13 for guiding and riding the trails on the west coast of norway. We have steep, rocky and rooty trails that are for the most part technical and sometimes pretty awkward due to that they are often old deer tracks. No riding on purpose built trails here.
    So does a G13 that is somewhat longshocked (say to squeeze out 140ish mm) and with a 150 mm fork sound like a good plan?
    I currently ride a Hightower (and have been riding SC bikes for many years) in size xl, and feel that it is a bit cramped, and definitely with too short chainstays. It is a fun, playful bike but loses composure when you hit roots and rocks at speed (you gotta gap as much as possible and "ride light"). At the same time it is a very precise bike, and i wouldn't want to compromise too much on that. So how would you rate the G13 on trails where you set up slow and then let go down a steep and narrow section?
    Anything else i should think about when trying to set up a G13 (or maybe another of the geometrons)?
    Olaal welcome. It sounds like a good plan (with an Angleset) or a G16 some guides in Whistler now using a G13 and a Mojo GeoMetron G16 all season.
    You could go with the Mojo custom DHX-2 shock on the G13 to give 148mm rear with a 150mm front and a -1 Angleset.
    Or the Mojo GeoMetron set up 29, 160 front and either with 27.5 rear or 29 rear depending on your preference (a precise ride with the wider bearing spacing and stiffer rear). The hybrid is very accurate.

    Both bikes are fine setting up slow and letting go, very stable but responsive at slow speed.
    The very slow speed steering will be different to the HIghtower due to the head angle, it responds faster to small inputs and may take a ride or two to get used to, more so on the G16 than G13 unless you fit the Angleset to the G13.
    If possible itís worth getting a 44mm offset 29 fork for the front.

    Iíd recommend 155mm (216x16) set up to how you like a bike to feel if the Mojo G16.
    If G13 is your preference the same applies but worth taking to Chris about the 148mm setup.

    I have some questions.

    How tall are you?

    Pedalling up too?

    Do give Chris Porter or Paul a call to talk it through. Theyíd be delighted to help. Mention Phil suggested you call.

    Email: [email protected]
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  82. #482
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    Thank you for the feedback!
    Sounds like the g16 is worth thinking about as well. The reason why i was leaning towards the g13 was that i do a lot of climbing, even on days where we use a shuttle. Plus i like a bike that has a quick feel to it when you push on the pedals. That said i guess with the right shock tune you can get that same feel on a longer travel bike as well. How have you set up yours for flattish trail centers?

    Regarding the angleset, that is a good idea either way. Always fun to play around with to get that perfect feeling on the bike

    I'm 186 cm tall (6'1) so a size Large would be right i guess?

    And yes, will give Chris or Paul a call or send an email. Thank you for the contact info!

  83. #483
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    The G16 wonít need an Angleset!! Only the G13 as Nicolai didnít quite go as far/far enough as std depending on your viewpoint

    They both climb great but the G16 is slightly better mainly due to the seat angle as stock, -2 works best on the G13 in my view but takes a bit of getting used to if using a 51mm offset fork (very responsive at very slow speed) but thatís with a 140mm fork. Iíd use -1 with the 150mm fork but the SA is less optimal at that travel.
    Based on what youíve said Iíd be going for Mojo G16 every time.

    You donít need to set the bike up different for the steeps or flatter. Only to how you like the bike to feel, grip/composure or lively/poppy, more linear at the end stroke or very progressive.

    Anyways up the G16 climbs and pedals brilliantly. First thing anyone mentions when they ride it, not the descending but how well it goes uphill.


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  84. #484
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    Cool!
    Fun with all those possibilities
    I'll look in to the g16 as well then, and then we'll see what kind of set-up it will be finally. That's the good thing with long snowy winters, plenty of time to go into the details.

    And if you want to do some biking around the fjords of Norway, just send a message

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    G16


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  86. #486
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    Quick question - With all considerations equal, how much does a wheelbase increase by with a -1 headset installed?

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    About 12mm


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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    The G16 wonít need an Angleset!! Only the G13 as Nicolai didnít quite go as far/far enough as std depending on your viewpoint

    They both climb great but the G16 is slightly better mainly due to the seat angle as stock, -2 works best on the G13 in my view but takes a bit of getting used to if using a 51mm offset fork (very responsive at very slow speed) but thatís with a 140mm fork. Iíd use -1 with the 150mm fork but the SA is less optimal at that travel.
    Based on what youíve said Iíd be going for Mojo G16 every time.

    You donít need to set the bike up different for the steeps or flatter. Only to how you like the bike to feel, grip/composure or lively/poppy, more linear at the end stroke or very progressive.

    Anyways up the G16 climbs and pedals brilliantly. First thing anyone mentions when they ride it, not the descending but how well it goes uphill.


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    Both the G13 and G16 are fabulous climbers for their weight! Both i think you're right the G16 is a touch better!

    51mm is the Standard on 29" 36 so for 44mm you have to use the lower legs of the 27,5" right?

    By the way Paul did contact me and now im only waiting for the '18 Shimano pricelist to get my bike order finished!

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post
    Both the G13 and G16 are fabulous climbers for their weight! Both i think you're right the G16 is a touch better!

    51mm is the Standard on 29" 36 so for 44mm you have to use the lower legs of the 27,5" right?

    By the way Paul did contact me and now im only waiting for the '18 Shimano pricelist to get my bike order finished!
    Always fun setting up a new bike
    Out of curiosity: what set-up are you going for?

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post
    51mm is the Standard on 29" 36 so for 44mm you have to use the lower legs of the 27,5" right?
    No. You use the 29 lowers and the 275 CSU

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olaal View Post
    Always fun setting up a new bike
    Out of curiosity: what set-up are you going for?
    Think i'll go for a G16 Hybrid 29/27,5 or at least build it that way and have a spare 29" rear wheel for race use!

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    I think keeping it simple.
    It does sound like you would benefit from the kind of bike the GeoMetron is. ...
    Thanks Pilot! I pulled the trigger on the "small" - will set it up with a 40mm and a -1 deg headset.
    Hard to find a EC lower HS cup in 56mm... why is this? Why did Nicolai choose 56 instead of 49? Should I be OK with a ZS on the lower cup? I guess I have to be? Avoiding CC Angleset since I don't want the tedium of potential insufferable/unending creaking. Just hard to get Works HS stateside, but the FSA one seems to be similar in design (at least the top cup) to CC, so I fear it'll creak too).
    Will let you know how it goes when I get it all set up!!

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtails Are Better View Post
    I'm about your height, and am very happily on a Longer 2017 Mojo edition. I'm actually running 26" wheels on mine to lower the BB some, and a 180mm travel 2017 Fox 40. I also happen to be in Seattle, you mentioned that you're in the PNW?
    Indeed - I'm in Tacoma. You have quite the unique setup! I am half tempted to put my Idylle Rare FCV 37 on the front just because I can - that fork is ridiculous, but I bet the 36 will be a better fit.
    I'm surprised you want to lower the BB! I find that when I'm cranking on stages, I catch the pedals too often with the Balance, and the Geometron I bought is even lower... hence my impending 165 mm crank purchase to ensure I don't catch the pedals. Your bike has to be quite a bit lower on account of not only the wheels, but also the 40 which lower A-C by about 20mm by my experience (for same travel vs. 36). Do you not catch the pedals??
    How long have you had it? Maybe we should ride sometime when I get mine built?

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    Thanks Pilot! I pulled the trigger on the "small" - will set it up with a 40mm and a -1 deg headset.
    Hard to find a EC lower HS cup in 56mm... why is this? Why did Nicolai choose 56 instead of 49? Should I be OK with a ZS on the lower cup? I guess I have to be? Avoiding CC Angleset since I don't want the tedium of potential insufferable/unending creaking. Just hard to get Works HS stateside, but the FSA one seems to be similar in design (at least the top cup) to CC, so I fear it'll creak too).
    Will let you know how it goes when I get it all set up!!
    Do works not ship to US? I didnít know that.

    56mm is the std for taper. A ZS headset is also std. No problem running the ZS lower and no need to use an EC.

    If you can get a ZS lower, EC upper -1 headset thatís the one to use.

    I could always find out what the shipping to you would be from here, get a works and ship it to you if not excessive but I would have thought they would do it for you. Nice people and just down the road from me.

    -1 isnít critical, particularly if you use a 180mm fork, just improves it nicely.


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  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Do works not ship to US? I didnít know that.

    56mm is the std for taper. A ZS headset is also std. No problem running the ZS lower and no need to use an EC.

    If you can get a ZS lower, EC upper -1 headset thatís the one to use.

    I could always find out what the shipping to you would be from here, get a works and ship it to you if not excessive but I would have thought they would do it for you. Nice people and just down the road from me.

    -1 isnít critical, particularly if you use a 180mm fork, just improves it nicely.


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    What I meant by ďhard to get a Works headset statesideď is just that they are only sold direct from Works Ė no other retailer from which I am buying parts for this build sells them.

    How do you feel about long-shocking the 2016 (with a 222x70)? I know itíll raise the bike up a tad/steepen angles. Was thinking I could slap my DH fork on there since no one wants it (d/t Sram/Fox Kool-Aid) and long shock the rear and ride DH. Fork would slacken bike further to help w steeper rear, just not sure if it screws up leverage curve.


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  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    What I meant by ďhard to get a Works headset statesideď is just that they are only sold direct from Works Ė no other retailer from which I am buying parts for this build sells them.

    How do you feel about long-shocking the 2016 (with a 222x70)? I know itíll raise the bike up a tad/steepen angles. Was thinking I could slap my DH fork on there since no one wants it (d/t Sram/Fox Kool-Aid) and long shock the rear and ride DH. Fork would slacken bike further to help w steeper rear, just not sure if it screws up leverage curve.


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    Suddenly a lot of variables in there. People over here ride DH with the 36ís and 155mm

    It depends a bit on the A2C of the DH fork.
    When we added the 222 to the 2016 we changed the seatstays to keep things straight so to speak.

    If you do both ends youíll lift the BB and stop it handling like a GeoMetron unless you do some adjustments on a2c and sag which are possible (two offset bushes to give the shock more space but itís not quite there, that and a bit more sag almost gets you where you want it to be but not ideal)

    If I were you Iíd get it set up with 155mm, 180mm fork, -1 and ride it first, I think you might shock yourself with what you can get up to on it we have some people doing gnarly dh courses on the G13.


    If you need more, maybe start looking at the details, or see if Chris has some short seat stays left over here to make it work properly with a long shock.

    If you like it that much it might be time to search out a 2017 with all the changes to allow whatever you want to do with it.


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  97. #497
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    Hi there, I'm interested in the G13. I'm not sure about whether to go for the 130mm or 148mm version. Has anyone ridden both?
    Does the 148 version still use a standard 29er fork?
    I would use it for local enduro races and general trail riding.
    I'm 6'0", would a Longer or Longest be advised?
    Sorry for all the questions, there is some good info on this thread.

  98. #498
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    I'm going to jump onto your post, NG13. I've read through this post and have been looking at a G13 or G15 and have a few questions as well. I am also 6'0", have a ~31" inseam. I was emailing Nicolai (I'll probably start a conversation with GeoMetron next) and they suggested a Medium or Longer version.

    This might have been answered before but I was confused on it. Is there a difference between the Nicolai and GeoMetron G13? Also does anyone have any experience with a G15 and is that worth a shot?


    I have moved to a relatively flat place that rewards 29ers so I'm looking to sell my 26er for a fun 29er. Does the geometron style still work for longer XCish style rides?
    I have more questions but I'll wait and read more.
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  99. #499
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    NG13
    148mm uses a std fork. Suggest running at 140mm r 150mm with a -1 headset in std fork or -2 in short offset 44mm.

    The G13 is currently the same bike from Nicolai or GeoMetron bikes but only GeoMetron Bikes do the 148mm shock
    .
    Longer or Longest would work for you, you are between and I would say your inseam would influence that. They can be set up to have the same cockpit and effective reach.
    Iím 5í10Ē and ride a Longest but others at 6í ride a Longer.
    Longer will be easier to lift the front if thatís your thing and you arenít very good at it. Both easy of you are good at it.
    Medium or Longer is the safe bet and will have slightly shorter ST.



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  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by formu1fan View Post
    I'm going to jump onto your post, NG13. I've read through this post and have been looking at a G13 or G15 and have a few questions as well. I am also 6'0", have a ~31" inseam. I was emailing Nicolai (I'll probably start a conversation with GeoMetron next) and they suggested a Medium or Longer version.

    This might have been answered before but I was confused on it. Is there a difference between the Nicolai and GeoMetron G13? Also does anyone have any experience with a G15 and is that worth a shot?


    I have moved to a relatively flat place that rewards 29ers so I'm looking to sell my 26er for a fun 29er. Does the geometron style still work for longer XCish style rides?
    I have more questions but I'll wait and read more.
    As mentioned the G13 is the same bike. The G16ís are different.

    At 31Ē inseam M or large work. I have 31Ē inseam you could fit a 150mm transfer no problem.

    However you might be better suited to a M.

    G15 for me is not worth it. The Mojo GeoMetron will do everything the G15 does but better with 29, 27.5 or hybrid set up, can be used for Enduro or XX.
    It has better angles, is more flexible and pedals just as well if not better.
    You can set it up to run around 150ím if you want.

    G13 can be swopped to work the same as the G15 too with the 148mm

    I recommend the 140mm front end with the std rear shock on G13 not the 150mm, especially if you donít fit an Angleset as the SA is not optimum.



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  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    NG13
    148mm uses a std fork. Suggest running at 140mm r 150mm with a -1 headset in std fork or -2 in short offset 44mm.

    The G13 is currently the same bike from Nicolai or GeoMetron bikes but only GeoMetron Bikes do the 148mm shock
    .
    Longer or Longest would work for you, you are between and I would say your inseam would influence that. They can be set up to have the same cockpit and effective reach.
    Iím 5í10Ē and ride a Longest but others at 6í ride a Longer.
    Longer will be easier to lift the front if thatís your thing and you arenít very good at it. Both easy of you are good at it.
    Medium or Longer is the safe bet and will have slightly shorter ST.



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    Thanks for the reply. I have a 32" inseam. Currently ride a large Mondraker Dune with reach of 495 and it feels perfect size-wise.
    I will contact Geometron directly then about the 148mm.
    Hoping to run a 150mm fork with it, so will need the 1 degree angle headset.

  102. #502
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    Sounds like a Longer/M G13 with 148mm, 150mm Mojo modded fork and a-1 headset then



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  103. #503
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    Thanks! What would the difference be between a Mojo modded fork and a standard one?

  104. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by NG13 View Post
    Thanks! What would the difference be between a Mojo modded fork and a standard one?
    Tweaks to the neg chamber and some friction reducing measures.
    Not critical, relatively easy to do yourself.
    Only if you went with a fork from them. I donít know what fork you would use I made an assumption!
    If Fox and you want to mod it just DM me.



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  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    As mentioned the G13 is the same bike. The G16ís are different.

    At 31Ē inseam M or large work. I have 31Ē inseam you could fit a 150mm transfer no problem.

    However you might be better suited to a M.

    G15 for me is not worth it. The Mojo GeoMetron will do everything the G15 does but better with 29, 27.5 or hybrid set up, can be used for Enduro or XX.
    It has better angles, is more flexible and pedals just as well if not better.
    You can set it up to run around 150ím if you want.

    G13 can be swopped to work the same as the G15 too with the 148mm

    I recommend the 140mm front end with the std rear shock on G13 not the 150mm, especially if you donít fit an Angleset as the SA is not optimum.



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    Perfect, thanks Pilot. Looks like the G13 is for me. I have a 29er HT that I'll use parts for the initial build that has a Pike 140 which I'll use with a standard head set. I think I'll go with a medium and a 40mm stem.
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  106. #506
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    Go with a 35mm stem, 800mm bar and a touch of bar roll with a -1 headset


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  107. #507
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    Is VAT included in the asking price and is this something that would have to be payed if selling to someone outside of Europe?

  108. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Go with a 35mm stem, 800mm bar and a touch of bar roll with a -1 headset


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    800mm doesn't seem to agree with my shoulders as I've learned on my current bike, but a 35mm is for sure and an angleset may be down the line. Just need to sell my current bike...
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  109. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcrs View Post
    Is VAT included in the asking price and is this something that would have to be payed if selling to someone outside of Europe?
    It does include VAT and I think that isnít payed if outside of Europe but local/country taxes/import duty may well have to be.


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  110. #510
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    For Info

    Geometron bikes is replacing the demo fleet..

    Used, well maintained frames/bikes with 4 year warranty on Frame.

    [email protected] or call 01600 887550

    G13s, G16s and G19s

    Give the guys a follow on instagram/facebook too.. geometronbikes, mojorisin66 on instagram and geometron bikes and Mojo Rising on FB
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  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    For Info

    Geometron bikes is replacing the demo fleet..

    Used, well maintained frames/bikes with 4 year warranty on Frame.

    [email protected] or call 01600 887550

    G13s, G16s and G19s

    Give the guys a follow on instagram/facebook too.. geometronbikes, mojorisin66 on instagram and geometron bikes and Mojo Rising on FB
    Thanks Pilot. In the end I went for the stock G13 frame (130mm travel). How would you set this up ? 140mm fork and angleset? I can't justify the extra expense of the custom shock at the moment.

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by NG13 View Post
    Thanks Pilot. In the end I went for the stock G13 frame (130mm travel). How would you set this up ? 140mm fork and angleset? I can't justify the extra expense of the custom shock at the moment.
    Thatís the one. 140mm and angleset is spot on with the 133mm rear.
    -1 or -2 is up to you. -2 takes slightly more getting used to at super slow speed stop/start tech if using a 51mm fork offset.
    M
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  113. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Thatís the one. 140mm and angleset is spot on with the 133mm rear.
    -1 or -2 is up to you. -2 takes slightly more getting used to at super slow speed stop/start tech if using a 51mm fork offset.
    M
    Pilot, thanks for all your help. A mate is selling a 130mm fox 34 for a good price. Do you think this would work on the g13 or would I be better off with 140mm?

  114. #514
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    Better off with the 140mm (or a 150mm if you can get a good price on one)


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    So, trying to get the build set up for a G16 29er.
    Any comments or ideas on the following build are more than welcome

    G16 29er longest 155mm travel
    X2 shock
    160mm 36 fork with 44 mm offset
    Hope crankset 170mm
    XT or GX drivetrain?
    Transfer seatpost 150mm
    Hope 35 mm stem
    Handlebar: undecided but needs 780mm width, 9deg sweep and about 20 mm rise
    Hope grips
    Hope tech v4 brakes with 200 mm disc front and 180mm rear
    Fizik seat
    Wheels are the big issue. I have a burly, expensive wheelset. So i would like something light-ish and not very expensive. Suggestions?
    Tyres will be Maxxis DHF/DHR or aggressor.

    So any ideas or comments from you guys on the build?

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Better off with the 140mm (or a 150mm if you can get a good price on one)


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    Cheers, found a 140mm fork.
    Awaiting arrival of my G13 frame now.
    Just wondering, does the frame ship with a rear axle?
    I have bought a DT Swiss wheelset but it didn't come with an axle.

  117. #517
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    Yes it does


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  118. #518
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    Any plans of a redesign or update in the near future?

  119. #519
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    I bought my G13 just before the Mojo/Fox split at the time they were able to give good deals on Hope kit as well as (I think) Renthal bars. For that reason I've got Hope Enduro wheels but not that wide or even that light to be honest! Stan's Flow worth a look
    I also went for XT drivetrain with Sunrace 11-46 cassette but again this was based on cost, Sram GX seems to be the one to go for

  120. #520
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    What downtube / bottom bracket protection do you use?

    All Mountain Style 'stickers' or solid Rockguardz carbon guards or something else?!

  121. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post
    What downtube / bottom bracket protection do you use?

    All Mountain Style 'stickers' or solid Rockguardz carbon guards or something else?!
    None! If the terrain is super loose rocky I sometimes zip wire an old cut up tyre to the BB/DT


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  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    I bought my G13 just before the Mojo/Fox split at the time they were able to give good deals on Hope kit as well as (I think) Renthal bars. For that reason I've got Hope Enduro wheels but not that wide or even that light to be honest! Stan's Flow worth a look
    I also went for XT drivetrain with Sunrace 11-46 cassette but again this was based on cost, Sram GX seems to be the one to go for
    The deals on Hope are still good, so that will be used as much as possible Agreed, Hope Enduro is a bit narrow and a bit heavy. The build i'm considering is Hope hub/Stans Arch rim/DT Comp spokes (or CXRay if i want to bling it up a bit).
    GX Eagle is probably the best future-proofing, but that puts a bit of weight where i want it the least...

  123. #523
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    G13 'modest' build

    Iím a long-time follower of this thread and having picked up my G13 a couple of months ago thought Iíd add my thoughts.
    Once Iíd demoíd the G13 I knew it was for me (despite crashing on the final corner at BPW!) I did have a relatively limited budget though so Mojo did me a package of frame + fork/shock/dropper as well as some Hope parts and they built it up for me using components Iíd got online. It came it at a bit under £4k in the end which I was happy with (and all easily upgradable in due courseÖ)

    G13 frame (Large/longest, Raw) Ė Iím 6í 2Ē and it felt immediately natural and after couple of rides found myself sliding the saddle back! The machining is amazing, Mojo Paul had a section of the BB area which shows the machining actually inside the frame, my favourite part is the chainstay brace which is hollow/ see-through (if that makes sense). Also the Head tube is manufactured to be oval and then the heat of the wielding distorts to make it circular Ė love it!
    Fox 34 - set up by Mojo Paul, itís a 150mm lowered to 140mm, blown away by suppleness of fork
    Fox DPS - set up by Mojo Paul, perfect for trail riding with clear distinction between open/trail/closed settings. Paul did mention the mod with coil shock and said cornering is amazing but for general riding it doesnít perform that well.
    XT drivetrain & brakes Ė 32t chainring although I understand anti-squat is designed around 30t, Sunrace 11-46 cassette. Impressed with the XT brakes esp 1-finger braking, F&R 180mm IceTech rotors (may upgrade to 200mm front rotor)
    Hope Enduro wheels with Vigilante (F) and Trail Boss (R) Ė Wheels are a good value option and I got some custom decals from Invisiframe, Vigilante is impressive front tyre but Trail Boss more suited to trail centre/summer riding

    Overall:
    The other bikes a tried were a mates YT Jeffsy and Cotic Rocket & Flare Max, I actually had my heart set on a Flare Max but was underwhelmed at the demo as rolled well but wasnít very engaging to ride, this was down to the Head Angle I think.
    I did debate long and hard about G13 vs G16, in the end the G13 seemed all the bike I needed as I mainly ride local stuff with a few trail centre visits now and again, this followed the advice of Paul and some of the other guys in the (at the time) Mojo workshop. Irony being Iím now more excited/confident/ambitious with my riding thinking about a France/Italy trip which would more suit the G16Ö.
    It is harder to lift front wheel but the trade-off is worth it, my previous bike had v short chainstays (sold as a good thing) but rear wheel was all over the place on descents
    Big thanks to Paul for putting up with me despite the Fox/Silverfish thing kicking off in the background!
    I was left thinking what would happen if Mojo/Nicolai put more emphasis on promoting the Geometron, there seems to be v little out there in terms of press reviews etc but Iím told a lot of journos actually own one. Itís still a niche product and Nicolai arenít big on the promo side of the industry (or perhaps more focussed on German market) which leaves Chris/Paul doing a handful of demos to shift their 25 frames/month

    Sorry for long post and big thanks to all on this forum esp The Pilot/Chainline for his insights
    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-g13pic.jpg

  124. #524
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    Ollal
    Recently saw that American Classic have gone under, so maybe some deals on old stock (wheels, rims etc)? otherwise the RaceFace Arc rims might be worth looking at but not sure on specs/weight
    Where are you worried about weight? the cassette? My bike is the heaviest I've had for a while (prob 32/33lbs) and is the quickest I've ever had!

  125. #525
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    Def a good idea to check out Am Classic, will do that!
    I have RF Arc rims on my hardtail, and they do work real well. So that is an option as well.
    I don't really focus that much on weight generally, but if i can shave some weight off around the wheels that might be worth it. And a light cassette is one place where going light doesn't influence durability much. It can get real costly though
    And congrats on a very nice bike! Really smart build, and looks great as well!

  126. #526
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    Thanks! Last bike was dark ano grey so I wanted something a bit more shouty!
    I don't remember ever liking a bike as much as I do the G13, shame is I've only managed about 4-5 rides in the last couple of months
    How do the Stans rims compare to DT Swiss XM 401? might be a useful alternative? prob is sometimes the more you look the more options there are...
    ps forgot to say I've got a DMR Wingbar which I picked up for £30, again on the heavier side but does the job, it's 800mm though

  127. #527
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    @bathbill

    Your bike looks mega, even if the blue/orange is not my taste! Are you happy with the Invisiframe decals?

    Paul suggested i get myself some Slik Decals ones and send them over to them!

    I will get some full orange or orange/yellow ones to fit with the Maxxis tyres!

    Will post some pictures when i have the bike!

  128. #528
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    @Olaal

    Specs sound great! Have you thought about building up a 29/27,5" hybrid, too?!

    XT or even XTR derailleur
    Maybe the Hope Carbon bar, but it's got only 7į backsweep and 5į upsweep and 20mm rise!

    Take the Hope Tech Enduro 29 or maybe Newmen SL.A30. I prefer stability over weight and wideness! Although the Newmen check both and are not very expensive too!

    No real marketing efforts from Nicolai in Germany too! Some Youtube spots, now a test of the G13 in the current issue of the online only ENDURO mag but no real works racing team, no brand ambassadors or something like that.
    But hopefully the last one will change soon!

  129. #529
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    I went for blue/orange to tie in with Fox decals, it is quite matchy-matchy if I'm honest but as above I was bored with previous grey bike! Was thinking once frame bearings need replacing I might consider a powdercoat but that's (hopefully) way down the line

    Invisiframe decals are fine but I can't really comment on comparison with Silk, it was quite a quick turnaround (a day or two) from ordering which I was quite pleased with. Mojo had the faff of fitting them!

  130. #530
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    GeoMetron and MojoRising are looking at the marketing actively now and more active on Instagram and Facebook. Iím looking at wider markets and how to raise profile without going mad and to continue to provide customer feedback and development input.
    Because of production methods and the goal of a very personal service there is a sweet spot of production supply.

    You canít effectively hybrid the G13.

    Also the G13 is more than enough bike for France/alps so donít worry about that...

    Rather than putting saddle back, look at some bar roll/spacer matching the measurements. But before you do that measure the centre of B.B. to bar end distance and try to match it for the position you have found with the saddle back.

    If the saddle back position is the one for you, consider lengthening the chainstay by 5mm with a new pair of inserts to balance the weighting when seated. That will ensure the max climbing ability.

    Of course if it feels great to you as is and does everything you want, ignore me, leave well alone and ride the shit out of it



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  131. #531
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    What I meant was that I was initially sceptical about a bike with such a long reach but it immediately felt comfortable/natural, I then surprised myself by moving saddle backwards as fine adjustment
    I've certainly yet to find the limits of the bike but have only had it since end of Oct (4-5 rides) so still getting used to it, I did to wonder about whether 130mm rear travel was enough (for Apls etc) and if the coil shock mod was worth it but talked myself out of that one
    I love the fact that you don't see many Nicolai/Geometrons about as opposed the same mass-produced American brands at every trail centre, just (for some reason) I get frustrated with a industry that only makes incremental changes at a time. I think it was Paul that told me Scott Sports bought a Geometron and now their latest full-suss bikes have got the same DNA (not sure if I made that up or not!)

  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Any plans of a redesign or update in the near future?
    They just did for MY2018. 1˚ slacker HTA compared to the MY2017 version. Some other tweaks as well that people in the know could explain better than myself would.

  133. #533
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    @Tallguy3001 Newmen wheels looked good, definately ticking all the boxes
    And yes, the 27,5 hybrid has crossed my mind, it's not a priority but i will try it at some point.

    My guess is that this is the year when the long and slack bikes start getting much more sales. Here in Norway several of the early adopters are getting either Pole or Nicolai bikes this year, so the timing for Mojo to be focusing more on the bikes is probably spot-on!

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    They just did for MY2018. 1˚ slacker HTA compared to the MY2017 version. Some other tweaks as well that people in the know could explain better than myself would.
    Is the new model geometry available in their site? Did they increase the rear tire clearance?

  135. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Is the new model geometry available in their site? Did they increase the rear tire clearance?
    Yeah itís on the Geometron site. Says itís able to fit a 29er now. The 2017 version does already.

  136. #536
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    If you check the frame option they mention only 27.5 so I guess you mean the hybrid 29 front - 27.5 rear.

  137. #537
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    Punky, which GeoMetron site. I know whatís being discussed but I didnít think itís all finalised yet.
    The Nicolai bikes are likely to come in line with the Mojo bike. The main reason it hadnít was the conservative nature of Nicolaiís biggest market still (the German market)



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  138. #538
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    This site.
    G16 Geometry

  139. #539
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    Ah, ok, that makes sense. Thatís not a recent change. The Mojo (now GeoMetron Bikes / MojoRising) version has been like that for a long time.

    Those changes were made at the same time as implementing the 83mm BB, adjustable chainstay and increased bearing width to increase stiffness, tyre clearance and allow a good chainline without using a boost crankset.

    They came about after testing the GPI and picking up advantages of the rear end with the bearing spacing and also the fact we were always adding anglesets to the 180mm fork.

    Itís also the reason the Mojo GeoMetron G16 is different to the Nicolai G16 at the moment.

    The Mojo versions have the seat brace Mojo logo rather than Ion.




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  140. #540
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    @the_pilot

    I recall you were involved in the development of the G15...is there a reason this was developed as a standalone bike rather than having adjustable travel on G13?

    If the G16 has adjustable travel could this design not be replicated on the G13 platform or were they more focussed on adjustable geometry? on my G13 I've tried both geo options but much prefer the Lowest setting and can't see me changing it, however adjustable travel I'd probably get more use out of

  141. #541
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    Just got my GLF ready and properly tested.
    What a fun bike.

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-dsc_0583.jpg1.jpg

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-dsc_0605.jpg1.jpg

  142. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Ah, ok, that makes sense. Thatís not a recent change. The Mojo (now GeoMetron Bikes / MojoRising) version has been like that for a long time.

    Those changes were made at the same time as implementing the 83mm BB, adjustable chainstay and increased bearing width to increase stiffness, tyre clearance and allow a good chainline without using a boost crankset.

    They came about after testing the GPI and picking up advantages of the rear end with the bearing spacing and also the fact we were always adding anglesets to the 180mm fork.

    Itís also the reason the Mojo GeoMetron G16 is different to the Nicolai G16 at the moment.

    The Mojo versions have the seat brace Mojo logo rather than Ion.
    Thanks for that info. Explains why the actual HTA is slacker than what was listed on the old site.

  143. #543
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    @VitaliT And your's is looking great with this colour code too!

    Is it a Reverb 170mm?!

  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post

    Is it a Reverb 170mm?!
    no its Bikeyoke revive 185mm

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    no its Bikeyoke revive 185mm
    Nice


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  146. #546
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    Is there a plan to use metric shocks in the future? It seems that all new models go metric.

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    no its Bikeyoke revive 185mm
    Very nice! I will get a Transfer 150mm and see if it's good!

    Maybe change it for a 9point8 Fallline 200mm later!
    Last edited by tallguy3001; 01-19-2018 at 03:25 AM.

  148. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Is there a plan to use metric shocks in the future? It seems that all new models go metric.
    Not sure. Iíll ask.


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  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallguy3001 View Post
    Very nice! I will get a Transfer 150mm and see if it's good!

    Maybe change it for a 9point8 Fallline 200mm later!
    You could also look at the Vecnum 200mm. Very good, very simple to service and fix,like very light.


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  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Is there a plan to use metric shocks in the future? It seems that all new models go metric.
    Thing is metric is mainly about more room internally on smaller length shocks. We have deliberately stayed at the long stroke side of things to avoid the issues hence 216 and 222.


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  151. #551
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    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread

    Even the smallest offering, the NotSoLong XS has a 216x63 for 148mm and can use a longer shock.

    This is my daughter and here last weekend.
    She is 159cm tall.








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  152. #552
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    very impressive - a) you've got your daughter out riding and b) she's got a killer bike!

    I have daughters but they're not interested and mainly just laugh at me covered in mud! they're only young though so still time...

    I don't understand benefits of metric shocks - is it same performance in smaller package? if that is a standard the industry is now following will it be difficult to get hold of non-metric shocks when it's time to replace/upgrade?

  153. #553
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    metric is essentially to get more internal room to allow designers, mainly with shorter stroke shocks, to have more scope for tuning rate curves. It's not a con but its not a clear way of putting it across.
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  154. #554
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    @the_pilot what do you mean by 'internal room'? shock volume?

    Also, apols for the total geek-out but 2 queries:
    1. my non-drive chainstay has 'Crafted by Nicolai' embossed on the top side but I notice other frames have variations on the theme - any particular reason for this? different production runs? different countries?
    2. lastly, my raw frame has black chainstay pivots - any reason they're black and not raw? just whatever is to hand when being assembled?

  155. #555
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    They change the chainstay writing every now and then. Just because.
    Black is default ano on Raw or black. If you want Raw you can specify for no extra cost. Other colours are extra love upcharge.


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  156. #556
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    I note your daughters bike has raw chainstay pivots, I also see on the smaller frames they don't need seat tube brace. Actually looking again it's a well thought-out spec with 34's and DPS shock which probably suits her weight/riding style.

    Only issue I can see is the fact the tyre logos don't line up with wheel decals...!!

  157. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    I note your daughters bike has raw chainstay pivots, I also see on the smaller frames they don't need seat tube brace. Actually looking again it's a well thought-out spec with 34's and DPS shock which probably suits her weight/riding style.

    Only issue I can see is the fact the tyre logos don't line up with wheel decals...!!
    Yes, Hollyís bike also had extra love orange etc. She isnít heavy enough to need 36ís and to keep the stand over low we decided dps was more than enough shock with her weight of around 50kg
    It is 150/160mm. It scan be run 160/(170-180mm) with 36s or similar but again it lifts the stand over.
    It can even run 29 or hybrid but that would be crazy at her height!

    You can order without seat brace any of the bikes. Most people like the brace.



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  158. #558
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    I love the brace but did wonder if the seat tube brace would work better as a single 'fin' rather than having two braces

    It does seem odd that Nicolai engineer features such as the seat tube brace and embossing on chainstay which are both apparently decorative but still don't fit bosses for a bottle cage? underside of top tube would be ideal location surely?

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    I love the brace but did wonder if the seat tube brace would work better as a single 'fin' rather than having two braces

    It does seem odd that Nicolai engineer features such as the seat tube brace and embossing on chainstay which are both apparently decorative but still don't fit bosses for a bottle cage? underside of top tube would be ideal location surely?
    Bottle cage bosses are optional, so what a problem?

  160. #560
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    I wasn't aware they were an option, I got mine from Mojo/Mojo Rising/Geometron so maybe it's just the stock they get in don't have bottle cage bosses

    I think there's a way to mount a bottle cage above shock mount using the cable guides though

  161. #561
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    Bottle mounts are an option. A number of sizes wonít take a bottle. Some people donít like a bottle under the TT.
    The double brace is related to both ST extension and the welding point on the tube for strength.
    You can have them wherever you want if you specify but the cost is extra.
    Geometron/MojoR are looking at how to facilitate a bottle option on all sizes.
    A number of customers use a bottle cage attached with straps (there was a rather crude way of describing that but I refrained!)






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  162. #562
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    My last bike had the bosses on underside on downtube so it may as well not had any! pointless place to put them unless you like bottle covered in filth

    I tend to wear hydration pack with a few tools, energy gel etc but rides under 2hrs would be good to travel a bit lighter

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    I wasn't aware they were an option, I got mine from Mojo/Mojo Rising/Geometron so maybe it's just the stock they get in don't have bottle cage bosses

    I think there's a way to mount a bottle cage above shock mount using the cable guides though
    I've already seen some custom bottle cages which fit L and above. I think Paul Shepherd (of Geometron Bikes Ltd) bike has one fitted too!

  164. #564
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    It depend on the version whip. The used GeoMeteon if it is before the 2017 range requires longer chainstays to fit the 222 shock.
    Chris P did still have some. They can be ordered From Nicolai or you can try and find the few that have been modded.
    Depending on the size you want I know where there is one (frsmeset) that may be for sale with the Longer rear already installed.
    The guy loves the bike but because of some specific requirements he has mainly around his riding style he wants to return to the slightly shorter chainstay and to size down to a Longer version of the same bike but not lose the advantages of the overall length and feel of the bike for him. His bike is a Longest(L) so would suit someone between 178cm and up to 190 ish cm.
    So I have my Geometron. I've only gotten 1 decent ride on it with a CCDB Coil CS. It felt sublime, but I intend to swap in an air shock on it next to see how that works. I had a Kirk on there (8.5" x 2.5"), but I recently picked up a 8.75" x 2.75" Float X2 Performance (LSC/LSR with CS). It fits fine with no physical constraints, which makes me think I accidentally ended up with one of the '16 Geometrons with the right stays to accommodate a longer shock. What is it about the stock bike that doesn't work with the 8.75" x 2.75" shock? Sure, it raises it up a little, but in the low setting, it's dang low. Seems fine, but I haven't ridden it.
    Also, am I getting way off base here on geo? I have a 180 Lyrik, non-angle-set, slack setting 8.75" rear Float X2. I'll find out tomorrow, but it actually seems alright despite the fact that it's not an angleset, it's a longer shock than is supposed to be in there, and no offset bushings or special stays.
    Appreciate the input!

  165. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    So I but I recently picked up a 8.75" x 2.75" Float X2 Performance (LSC/LSR with CS). It fits fine with no physical constraints, which makes me think I accidentally ended up with one of the '16 Geometrons with the right stays to accommodate a longer shock. What is it about the stock bike that doesn't work with the 8.75" x 2.75" shock? Sure, it raises it up a little, but in the low setting, it's dang low. Seems fine, but I haven't ridden it.
    Also, am I getting way off base here on geo? I have a 180 Lyrik, non-angle-set, slack setting 8.75" rear Float X2. I'll find out tomorrow, but it actually seems alright despite the fact that it's not an angleset, it's a longer shock than is supposed to be in there, and no offset bushings or special stays.
    Appreciate the input!
    I always have to process these questions!

    I noticed I made a mistake in my post too, the seat stays were shorter not the chain stays.

    The 8.75 will fit no problem but, as you mention lifts the B.B. higher than design. In low it should be around 333mm static. In high 340mm.

    No Angleset isnít way off base, itís definitely a preference to use one on not on the pre 17 models. It doesnít Ďneedí it.
    The lyric is fine a2c.
    With the 8.75 in low It will be steeper than intended and a bit taller, by how much I canít say exactly, but I suspect about 6mm taller than high setting so around 348mm and perhaps just over 63HA. (Stock itís approx 62.5 with a 180mm)
    You could a) increase the sag to compensate a little b) fit a couple of 2.5mm offset bushes in to give the sock more room which will put it close enough to std again to not be worth talking about and put the angles back. It still needs to be in low.
    B would be the way to go.

    30% sag and a full spacer stack in the x2 will feel good and could be about right but in that mode it does feel more like a DH bike in the ride, itís glued to the ground but feels less lively.

    Iíd try it and see what you think but I think it will be a bit high without the offset bushes.

    If you do want the seat stays message me and Iíll speak to Chris to check if there are any and what price.


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  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    I always have to process these questions!

    I noticed I made a mistake in my post too, the seat stays were shorter not the chain stays.

    The 8.75 will fit no problem but, as you mention lifts the B.B. higher than design. In low it should be around 333mm static. In high 340mm.

    No Angleset isnít way off base, itís definitely a preference to use one on not on the pre 17 models. It doesnít Ďneedí it.
    The lyric is fine a2c.
    With the 8.75 in low It will be steeper than intended and a bit taller, by how much I canít say exactly, but I suspect about 6mm taller than high setting so around 348mm and perhaps just over 63HA. (Stock itís approx 62.5 with a 180mm)
    You could a) increase the sag to compensate a little b) fit a couple of 2.5mm offset bushes in to give the sock more room which will put it close enough to std again to not be worth talking about and put the angles back. It still needs to be in low.
    B would be the way to go.

    30% sag and a full spacer stack in the x2 will feel good and could be about right but in that mode it does feel more like a DH bike in the ride, itís glued to the ground but feels less lively.

    Iíd try it and see what you think but I think it will be a bit high without the offset bushes.

    If you do want the seat stays message me and Iíll speak to Chris to check if there are any and what price.


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    I do love math...
    I figure (with the '16 techsheet giving me geo info) that since geo (based on 550 A-C fork and 216 x 63mm shock), with my 572 mm A-C fork and 222 x 70 mm shock, the front is raised 15 mm over stock, and rear raised 17 mm over stock. So I guess BB to be about 16 mm higher than stock. And since both front and rear are raised about the same, HTA and STA are preserved.
    But damn, 16mm is a lot, and makes the BB drop now ~1 mm.
    If I angleset it, that'll lower it a tad, but throw the front wheel out there further, messing up weigh distribution while on the pedals, and I don't want that. So I think I'll run a tad more sag since I like the DH bike feel anyway - that's what makes me feel most confident while riding.
    Maybe I'll put those offset bushings in the X2 and see what happens (which would drop the BB about 7 mm, making it a -8, which seems better suited to intended purpose, but then again, why not just run an 8.5" shock with regular bushings? Well, because I don't have an 8.5 Float X2, I have an 8.75. I could talk in circles all day...

  167. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikkellison View Post
    I do love math...
    I figure (with the '16 techsheet giving me geo info) that since geo (based on 550 A-C fork and 216 x 63mm shock), with my 572 mm A-C fork and 222 x 70 mm shock, the front is raised 15 mm over stock, and rear raised 17 mm over stock. So I guess BB to be about 16 mm higher than stock. And since both front and rear are raised about the same, HTA and STA are preserved.
    But damn, 16mm is a lot, and makes the BB drop now ~1 mm.
    If I angleset it, that'll lower it a tad, but throw the front wheel out there further, messing up weigh distribution while on the pedals, and I don't want that. So I think I'll run a tad more sag since I like the DH bike feel anyway - that's what makes me feel most confident while riding.
    Maybe I'll put those offset bushings in the X2 and see what happens (which would drop the BB about 7 mm, making it a -8, which seems better suited to intended purpose, but then again, why not just run an 8.5" shock with regular bushings? Well, because I don't have an 8.5 Float X2, I have an 8.75. I could talk in circles all day...
    I had a similar number in my head, but the stock geo should be based on a 559mm a2c 170mm Fox 36 not 550.

    I think youíll find in reality itís slightly higher than the stock high setting with the 222 by about 5mm so 345mm ish B.B. and the sag will get close to evening it out so not too high.
    Offset bushes for the win.





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  168. #568
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    Thinking about a MTB holiday later this year, possibly Finale Ligure

    Any recommendations of a suitable bike bag to fit my G13 (Longest)? Do I have to remove the shock?

    Any other tips/mods I should be considering? I was going to get a 200m front rotor and also a chain device

  169. #569
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    Bike bag. Evocative have made a bigger bag
    I always remove the shock and fold it. Itís a 2 minute job. Just cable tie the lever/mount and under some bubble wrap or a rag.

    Chain device is a good plan if you run the clutch off. I would run one anyway.


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  170. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    Thinking about a MTB holiday later this year, possibly Finale Ligure

    Any recommendations of a suitable bike bag to fit my G13 (Longest)? Do I have to remove the shock?

    Any other tips/mods I should be considering? I was going to get a 200m front rotor and also a chain device
    203mm both ends for the win.


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  171. #571
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    Cheers @the_pilot

    Return flights Bristol - Nice with bike are £180, difficult to justify £280 on Evoc bag - any cheaper options?

  172. #572
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    Rent an evoc bag is an option. Maybe a used one. Any bag will do if you remove the shock. The evoc style will last Longer. something for £50 fine with a bit of extra padding.


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  173. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    Cheers @the_pilot

    Return flights Bristol - Nice with bike are £180, difficult to justify £280 on Evoc bag - any cheaper options?
    You can fly to Milan and get a train to Finale.
    When we went last time with 3 friends we hired a van from Malpensa.


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  174. #574
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    Going to pick up my bike in a couple of weeks, so it should fit in an Evoc? G16 Longest that is.

  175. #575
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    Cheers - will look into hire option

    In terms of set up I'll increase fork to 150mm, anything else or stick with standard set up?

  176. #576
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    Evoc rental is £55 for up to 9 days! Bargain!

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    Cheers - will look into hire option

    In terms of set up I'll increase fork to 150mm, anything else or stick with standard set up?
    Thats it. Good to go. You may end up running a bit more sag.


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  178. #578
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olaal View Post
    Going to pick up my bike in a couple of weeks, so it should fit in an Evoc? G16 Longest that is.
    Yes with the shock out or at least one end removed. Itís easiest to take it out tbh.


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  179. #579
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    Cool! Looking forward to new bike day

  180. #580
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    @Ollal

    Are you collecting from Mojo Rising/Geometron? I haven't been to the new premises but I'd suggest factoring in a ride nearby then they can do any fine tuning as needed, Forest of Dean isn't too far away

  181. #581
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    @bathbill
    Yes, collection from Mojo. Paul told me to bring riding gear, so i'm hoping for a set-up ride to get the suspension tuned in

  182. #582
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    Excited for you!!

    When the big day arrives please post photos

  183. #583
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    Always fun with a new bike!
    And i will definitely post photos

    Happy with your bike so far?

  184. #584
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    Yes very impressed with my G13, I've been riding 20 yrs (gulp) and it's the best/most capable bike I've had

    Having said that since getting it in Oct I've only managed a handful of rides so still getting used to it, hoping to get over the Forest of Dean this weekend...

  185. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    Yes very impressed with my G13, I've been riding 20 yrs (gulp) and it's the best/most capable bike I've had

    Having said that since getting it in Oct I've only managed a handful of rides so still getting used to it, hoping to get over the Forest of Dean this weekend...
    What fork are you running on your G13?
    2017 Kona Process 111
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  186. #586
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    2018 Fox 34's (see #523 above)
    very impressed with them

  187. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    2018 Fox 34's (see #523 above)
    very impressed with them
    Cheers for that. I was curious about 140 vs 150 in fork travel. I've had my G13 for a little while now (with 2018 140 Fox 34) and generally love everything about it. I just wonder sometimes if the stack height feels a little low...would like to see if a 150 fork felt much different.
    2017 Kona Process 111
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  188. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by russmu66 View Post
    Cheers for that. I was curious about 140 vs 150 in fork travel. I've had my G13 for a little while now (with 2018 140 Fox 34) and generally love everything about it. I just wonder sometimes if the stack height feels a little low...would like to see if a 150 fork felt much different.
    Spacers for the win. Bar rise change?
    You might be experiencing what many do which is initially a lower stack is helpful to help the change to a more natural weighting of the front to make the front work with longer reach and slacker HA. Slightly less so on the std 13. As the HA is 2deg steeper than a 16.
    Gradually as you rode more a lift in the front stack is common.

    Itís good to mess about with until you finish what works for you.

    I change mine depending on terrain to an extent lifting it when heading to steeper places and dropping it when riding flatter, float stuff.

    Give just adding some spacers a go and see how it feels.


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  189. #589
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    Hi to all
    Did anyone tested GLF with 29er wheels?
    another question; if I go with Lyrik 160mm 29/27.5+ its AC is 30mm longer than my current fox 34 150mm 27,5plus,( 572 mm vs 540mm) how bad Iím going to mess with geo?
    160mm Fox 36 29 boost not an option because didnít found any information what it will work with 27,5x3Ē tire (77-80mm wide))
    At least handlebar well be on same spot, now I have 30mm beneath stem.

  190. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Hi to all
    Did anyone tested GLF with 29er wheels?
    another question; if I go with Lyrik 160mm 29/27.5+ its AC is 30mm longer than my current fox 34 150mm 27,5plus,( 572 mm vs 540mm) how bad Iím going to mess with geo?
    160mm Fox 36 29 boost not an option because didnít found any information what it will work with 27,5x3Ē tire (77-80mm wide))
    At least handlebar well be on same spot, now I have 30mm beneath stem.
    You will take around a degree, perhaps more off the HA and SA.

    Your reach will reduce a small amount and B.B. also lift a small amount <5mm.




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  191. #591
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    BTW Fox 29 boost can take a 27.5x3.0 tire easily. This is what I run in my plus bike.

  192. #592
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    Thanks Pilot, Its sound OK

    gpgalanis check PM

  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Thanks Pilot, Its sound OK

    gpgalanis check PM
    Compensate if you need to by running a little more sag in the front and/or move the saddle forward to steepen the SA as well as drop the bars.

    Depending on the HA of the GLF you could also add an Angleset to correct but you donít want to go too far (canít believe itís me saying that!)


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  194. #594
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    Finally got the G13 built and first spin today. Thanks Chainline for all your help. The bike is fast and the coil shock feels incredible.

    Some of the spec:

    140mm Fox 36 RC2
    Cane Creek DB IL Coil Shock
    2 degree Works Components angleset (HA 62.5)
    Shimano XT drivetrain and brakes
    DT Swiss E1700 wheelset.
    Magic Mary SG front and rear.

    Really blown away by how well the bike corners.

  195. #595
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    What cranks are people running? I know it's an 83mm but so that limits options a bit?

  196. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by NG13 View Post


    Finally got the G13 built and first spin today. Thanks Chainline for all your help. The bike is fast and the coil shock feels incredible.

    Some of the spec:

    140mm Fox 36 RC2
    Cane Creek DB IL Coil Shock
    2 degree Works Components angleset (HA 62.5)
    Shimano XT drivetrain and brakes
    DT Swiss E1700 wheelset.
    Magic Mary SG front and rear.

    Really blown away by how well the bike corners.
    Excellent


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  197. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wookster View Post
    What cranks are people running? I know it's an 83mm but so that limits options a bit?
    Hopes. Have fitted loads. Been excellent.


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  198. #598
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    Hope cranks too. Wouldn't go for 175mm though as too long. Makes you ride bit cautious as could hit unplanned stuff. 165 mm ideal imo.

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  199. #599
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    Iím on 165ís.


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  200. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Iím on 165ís.


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    I'm on 175mm everywhere else, so without a doubt got 175 for g16 too.. 165 would work better.

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