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  1. #901
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    I was advised to go DT 511 for 29er, the Stan's Flow rims are a bit light for 29 the (very experienced) wheel builder said. Mines a 27/29 with a Lyric. love it

  2. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    I was advised to go DT 511 for 29er, the Stan's Flow rims are a bit light for 29 the (very experienced) wheel builder said. Mines a 27/29 with a Lyric. love it
    Where ironically Chris often uses a Crest without issue and he rides hard!


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  3. #903
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    Yeah, it’s a nice idea but apparently super super stiff to the point of being too stiff - uncomfortable.

  4. #904
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    Hia, on "our frame" stick with the X2, it’s a beauty.

  5. #905
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    Krylon
    I'd definitely buy from the guys at Mojo Rising, they really do care - their service is amazing, second to none in the business. It's like owning a Rolls Royce

  6. #906
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    My vote is for G16 with 29 front and 27.5 rear.
    Same as Mr Porter and the Pilot ride.
    I have recently switched to that setup after 3 years on a G16 with 27.5/27.5. Lyric upfront now (42 offset 160 travel). The 29 fork and wheel raises the front end by maybe 20mm, slackening the head a touch (maybe 1.2 degrees) and raising the BB just enough to get it to steer in right on that wagon wheel.
    One ride on a fast steep rough track convinced me, it just steers better. and of course it t rolls over beautifully as well. 29/29 would obviously roll over even better but MAY be a wide/fast track only beast.
    What makes it even more adaptable is If I want to ride local XC singletrack and its real tight I CAN put in a 650 front wheel, which returns me excatly to standard G16 geometry. (but with 160 travel which is fine for those tracks).

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Krylon
    I'd definitely buy from the guys at Mojo Rising, they really do care - their service is amazing, second to none in the business. It's like owning a Rolls Royce
    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_3220.jpg

    Thanks for the advice. As you can see, I went for it! You are right about the Mojo staff. Got a hold of them and the were super helpful and had exactly what I wanted in stock. Gave me a really good rundown on suspension baselines as well. Got it built up last night and hit the mountains today. Was dead tired by the time I got the suspension halfway dialed in but I could see sparks of what a speed and cornering machine it can be. Looking forward to racing enduro and downhill on it next year.

  8. #908
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    I would definitely go for the hybrid on the G16 if you're replacing a Slash. I've had a lot of 29ers and I ran the original Geometron as 27.5 both ends for a couple of years, the hybrid really feels like the best of both.

    I have a G13 that I really like for trail centres and easy pedalling but the hybrid set-up is far nicer to ride on anything downhill.

  9. #909
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    https://singletrackworld.com/2018/12...-design-limit/

    An interesting read, would like to see what his idea of a perfect fork would end up being and the associated cost and weight!

  10. #910
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    Have you lot seen the Nicolai G1 that's just been announced?

    https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/bike_news/nicolai-g1-382889
    https://en.nicolai-bicycles.com/frames/g1/

    Looks like the culmination of thinking & testing on the Mojo G16 GeoMetron - what a bike! Adjustable travel & geometry as well as 27.5" & 29" wheelsizes

    Interested that Nicolai will supply with EXT shock and also photos seem to show the upside down Intend forks

  11. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    Have you lot seen the Nicolai G1 that's just been announced?

    https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/bike_news/nicolai-g1-382889
    https://en.nicolai-bicycles.com/frames/g1/

    Looks like the culmination of thinking & testing on the Mojo G16 GeoMetron - what a bike! Adjustable travel & geometry as well as 27.5" & 29" wheelsizes

    Interested that Nicolai will supply with EXT shock and also photos seem to show the upside down Intend forks
    Yes. What a lot of nice ideas in that bike I wonder where many of those came from.....

    Not much credit given...


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  12. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Yes. What a lot of nice ideas in that bike I wonder where many of those came from.....

    Not much credit given...


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    Same old story unfortunately.....

  13. #913
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    Will this result in the G16/G15/G13 being killed off?

    Looking at a G15 to replace my enduro next summer.

  14. #914
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Yes. What a lot of nice ideas in that bike I wonder where many of those came from.....

    Not much credit given...


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    I guess it would be under the umbrella of 'GeoMetron'?

  15. #915
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir HC View Post
    Will this result in the G16/G15/G13 being killed off?

    Looking at a G15 to replace my enduro next summer.
    It will replace 16/15/13 yes.

    With the transition to a metric shock the tar shock travel can be adjusted to 140mm easily.
    Similar with forks.

    This was the whole basis of doing it this way. Flexibility for riders to use the wheels they want in the combination they want (with the exception, I hope for obvious reasons, of 29 Rear and 27.5 front or fat bike wheels!) and the travel they want and if they change their mind it’s not a new bike, you will be able to buy the adaptors you need for the options you want.


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  16. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Yes. What a lot of nice ideas in that bike I wonder where many of those came from.....

    Not much credit given...


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    Yes, that was bullshit. As if Nicolai came up with the whole geometry concept.

    Also - Hi! duncanridesbikes (insta) here - maybe a more appropriate arena to ask about the BB height info you posted in my IG feed?

    You mentioned the BB height should be around 330-335mm, but i'm measuring it at 355-360mm (with 29 inch wheels F+R). Seems like 335 would be pretty low for a 29r. I've double checked everything - I have the ET key in the long shock position and a 8.5*2.5" shock mounted.
    I'm running a 150mm Yari - soon to be a 160mm Yari, which will only make matters 'worse'. i get what you're saying about ride height and dynamic feel being more important than a single number by itself, but a variance of 10-15mm is pretty big (or 20-25mm from your numbers which i suspect are 27.5 numbers).

    The Slash is listed as 345mm BB height. I'll be measuring one tomorrow to confirm that.

    What am i doing wrong - a friend is planning to lathe me up some bushings. I'd rather not waste his time if i don't need to.

    Oh - looks like you replied on IG so all of the above is resolved! Yes buy/make offset bushes.
    Nothing good here.

  17. #917
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    It will replace 16/15/13 yes.

    With the transition to a metric shock the tar shock travel can be adjusted to 140mm easily.
    Similar with forks.

    This was the whole basis of doing it this way. Flexibility for riders to use the wheels they want in the combination they want (with the exception, I hope for obvious reasons, of 29 Rear and 27.5 front or fat bike wheels!) and the travel they want and if they change their mind it’s not a new bike, you will be able to buy the adaptors you need for the options you want.


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    It's a great concept but shown on Nicolai website as an 'enduro' bike which will put some people off without having a proper description/ explanation of the adaptability of the bike

    Either way looks like a beast to me! Don't know which aspects you were involved in but nice work!

    Couple of queries:
    - is top tube now low enough not to get struck by brake levers?
    - any chance of bosses for bottle?
    - is BB shell 83mm?

  18. #918
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    Some clarity for others:

    With 29" wheels f+r, a 150mm Yari and an 8.5*2.5 shock in the 222/70 ET key position, the BB is running 355/360mm static. Pilot wondered on IG how come it was so high, turns out a Longest is long enough that looks like it has 27.5 wheels due to the frame proportions.

    I'm going to get some offset bushes made to drop about 10mm off that figure, as my Trek Slash 29 was in that ballpark and it worked well for me. Similar bikes in the sense that neither have a tonne of chain interaction with the suspension (I think).

    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread-img_20181213_081051_322.jpg
    Nothing good here.

  19. #919
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    Nicolai/Mojo GeoMetron build/riding/Development Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by nouseforaname View Post
    Yes, that was bullshit. As if Nicolai came up with the whole geometry concept.

    Also - Hi! duncanridesbikes (insta) here - maybe a more appropriate arena to ask about the BB height info you posted in my IG feed?

    You mentioned the BB height should be around 330-335mm, but i'm measuring it at 355-360mm (with 29 inch wheels F+R). Seems like 335 would be pretty low for a 29r. I've double checked everything - I have the ET key in the long shock position and a 8.5*2.5" shock mounted.
    I'm running a 150mm Yari - soon to be a 160mm Yari, which will only make matters 'worse'. i get what you're saying about ride height and dynamic feel being more important than a single number by itself, but a variance of 10-15mm is pretty big (or 20-25mm from your numbers which i suspect are 27.5 numbers).

    The Slash is listed as 345mm BB height. I'll be measuring one tomorrow to confirm that.

    What am i doing wrong - a friend is planning to lathe me up some bushings. I'd rather not waste his time if i don't need to.

    Oh - looks like you replied on IG so all of the above is resolved! Yes buy/make offset bushes.
    He he yes. Hello. In the depths of this thread is some of my musings on that but if you are up and running....

    So if you use a 216/63 (8.5 x 2.5?) in the long shock (double check position) and add 2 offset bushes at 2.5mm you should get to around 340mm. But definitely 345mm. 355mm in long shock with 216x63 does seem high to me.

    Chris configures his to 325mm in 29 and said it’s ace but seems too low for me!

    Sounds like you are doing things right. You’ll want to move the saddle forward probably and maybe a tad of fwd bar roll too to reset riding position and seat angle for climbing.



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  20. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    He he yes. Hello. In the depths of this thread is some of my musings on that but if you are up and running....

    So if you use a 216/63 (8.5 x 2.5?) in the long shock (double check position) and add 2 offset bushes at 2.5mm you should get to around 340mm. But definitely 345mm. 355mm in long shock with 216x63 does seem high to me.

    Chris configures his to 325mm in 29 and said it’s ace but seems too low for me!

    Sounds like you are doing things right. You’ll want to move the saddle forward probably and maybe a tad of fwd bar roll too to reset riding position and seat angle for climbing.



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    Posted on wrong post. Soz!


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  21. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    It's a great concept but shown on Nicolai website as an 'enduro' bike which will put some people off without having a proper description/ explanation of the adaptability of the bike

    Either way looks like a beast to me! Don't know which aspects you were involved in but nice work!

    Couple of queries:
    - is top tube now low enough not to get struck by brake levers?
    - any chance of bosses for bottle?
    - is BB shell 83mm?
    Should be as ST was due to be slightly lowered too but may not be for all, depends how flat you run your levers (mine don’t touch on a Longest but super close)

    You can use straps but there is a solution in the works...see that gap under the lever/shock....

    I’ll double check but when I spoke to Marcel a return to 73mm was planned to play more nicely with eagle/12sp but with same bearing spacing as 83mm G16 (bearing spacing was why we did that in the first place - used the G19 BB to improve stiffness and tyre clearance)

    There are a few tweaks.
    Geo is the same tho except for SA on bigger bikes.
    Big difference is adaptability and the fact you can keep the geo the same with different wheel combo’s.


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  22. #922
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    @the_pilot Do you know if seatstays can be retrofitted to a G16? Seems like there would be more possibilities for tuning if doing that.

  23. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir HC View Post
    https://singletrackworld.com/2018/12...-design-limit/

    An interesting read, would like to see what his idea of a perfect fork would end up being and the associated cost and weight!
    36mm stanchions, dual crown, 20mm axle with pinch bolts on both legs - keyed like a Manitou (?), air spring in both legs and damper in both legs. Oh, and 1 1/8th sized steer tube for reach adjustment. I reckon probably do-able at about 1/2-1Lb heavier than a current Fox 36. So, not very unreasonable for the gains.
    Nothing good here.

  24. #924
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    Hi Pilot, Iīve noticed Chris is testing formula fork and brakes, do you know what he thinks about these products? Iīm pretty surprised with the work done on MORC conversion he is testing something completely different, also I have never seen his bike without hope brakes. Thanks!

  25. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    Hi Pilot, Iīve noticed Chris is testing formula fork and brakes, do you know what he thinks about these products? Iīm pretty surprised with the work done on MORC conversion he is testing something completely different, also I have never seen his bike without hope brakes. Thanks!
    He’s always testing. It is a business!
    Morc is not going to be for everyone,
    Loads of people won’t use a dual crown fork on principle alone (too much bike) I know he rates both, but we haven’t discussed them in detail.

    He did tell me Hope was tattooed right through him


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  26. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    He’s always testing. It is a business!
    Morc is not going to be for everyone,
    Loads of people won’t use a dual crown fork on principle alone (too much bike) I know he rates both, but we haven’t discussed them in detail.

    He did tell me Hope was tattooed right through him


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    Heh, tattooed, nice, hope does produce nice stuff for sure and most of it is even fairly reasonably priced. I think that a lot of people would like to try it at least if they could buy/borrow them for reasonable price, but other than geometron/nicolai and YT capra from more mainstream manufacturers donīt make frames strong enough for dual crown. Also dual crown forks tend to be more expensive than similar quality single crown ones so if could turn out to be fairly expensive experiment if they would struggle to sell them. What made me wonder if he likes them is a fact that this is the first time I saw him running something else other than fox/modified fox and there is plenty of dual crown forks out there that he didnīt want to even test(at least we donīt see him testing them, maybe he did?). Thanks for answer anyway, appreciate that! I have to say that G16 was my dream bike since first time and what they have managed to do with G1 is absolutely awesome, at least I have something to strive for in the future.

  27. #927
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    Heh, tatooed, nice, hope does produce nice stuff for sure and most of it is even fairly reasonably priced. I think that a lot of people would like to try it at least if they could buy/borrow them for reasonable price, but other than geometron/nicolai and YT capra from more mainstream manufacturers donīt make frames strong enough for dual crown. Also dual crown forks tend to be more expensive than similar quality single crown ones so if could turn out to be fairly expensive experiment if they would struggle to sell them. What made me wonder if he likes them is a fact that this is the first time I saw him running something else other than fox/modified fox and there is plenty of dual crown forks out there that he didnīt want to even test(at least we donīt see him testing them, maybe he did?). Thanks for answer anyway, appreciate that! I have to say that G16 was my dream bike since first time and what they have managed to do with G1 is absolutely awesome, at least I have something to strive for in the future.
    So the Morc will be not. Perhaps that’s not been made clear. It will be possible to retro fit a whole load of Fox 36 lowers.

    Will be barely heavier than the SC version but have offset flexibility in the crowns and provide a stiffer handlebar interface with the option to deliver improved air spring and damping cartridges and upgrades.

    The Morc 36 isn’t intended to compete with the likes of a boxxer or 40.

    It could be used in plenty of frames as long as the clearance is ok.

    Chris and the team has tested a number of dual crown forks as well as singles to compare damping etc.

    So the plan with a Morc is you will be able to deliver a stiffer fork if you have an existing 36, with upgrade options for the internals that ordinarily wouldn’t be open to you....



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  28. #928
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    Yeah Iīve read on insta I think about some interesting new internals in the works. I think most carbon frames still wouldnīt be safe to be used with 36 conversion because of the possible damage it could cause in case of crash and stanchion would hit top/downtube form the side, capra is supposedly reinforced in that area. I have sneaky suspicion that he would be really happy if he could use something completely not fox in this place, he slowly got rid of shock and dropper, the fork is the last reminiscence of Mojo/fox days, even though I bet there is not much left stock in there ather than lower legs and maybe axle

  29. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    Yeah Iīve read on insta I think about some interesting new internals in the works. I think most carbon frames still wouldnīt be safe to be used with 36 conversion because of the possible damage it could cause in case of crash and stanchion would hit top/downtube form the side, capra is supposedly reinforced in that area. I have sneaky suspicion that he would be really happy if he could use something completely not fox in this place, he slowly got rid of shock and dropper, the fork is the last reminiscence of Mojo/fox days, even though I bet there is not much left stock in there ather than lower legs and maybe axle
    Transfer is still an awesome post, super reliable.


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  30. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Transfer is still an awesome post, super reliable.


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    Transfer is perhaps the only part from fox where I believe they didnīt try to find easy solution intead of the best solution to save money, but itīs hard to see the reason to pay twice as much money as for something like one up dropper, maybe if I was obsessed with kashima there would be at least that. But Iīm not I donīt know, but to me dropper is nowhere as complex and demanding product to make as fork or shock, to make it light weight and reliable perhaps isnīt very easy task, but still should be a lot easier than to make reliable fork as itīs not that hard to seal well without hampering sensitivity. In you honest opinion, is transfer worth that much more money than something like one up, x fusion manic or even something completely budget like brand x ascend if you have any experience with those? They all seem to work well, if not better than transfer, certainly not noticeably worse, arenīt much heavier, offer the same travel options...I just cannot find what transfer does better than the others, if they at least had exceptional customer service, but from what Iīve heard, itīs average to put it nicely. I donīt want to go completely off topic here so sorry for that. Thanks for the answer!

  31. #931
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    Transfer is perhaps the only part from fox where I believe they didnīt try to find easy solution intead of the best solution to save money, but itīs hard to see the reason to pay twice as much money as for something like one up dropper, maybe if I was obsessed with kashima there would be at least that. But Iīm not I donīt know, but to me dropper is nowhere as complex and demanding product to make as fork or shock, to make it light weight and reliable perhaps isnīt very easy task, but still should be a lot easier than to make reliable fork as itīs not that hard to seal well without hampering sensitivity. In you honest opinion, is transfer worth that much more money than something like one up, x fusion manic or even something completely budget like brand x ascend if you have any experience with those? They all seem to work well, if not better than transfer, certainly not noticeably worse, arenīt much heavier, offer the same travel options...I just cannot find what transfer does better than the others, if they at least had exceptional customer service, but from what Iīve heard, itīs average to put it nicely. I donīt want to go completely off topic here so sorry for that. Thanks for the answer!
    I don’t have any experience of the others only Reverb.

    I still have a Dos which has never let me down. Same with my Transfer. I wasn’t trying to big up Fox, just saying in my experience it’s been bullet proof with zero attention.

    The reverbs however....


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  32. #932
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    Yet reverb is perhaps the most sold dropper out there and still advertised as leader in this segment. Shows how much bike brands care about reliability, easy serviceability or performance in general for their customers. Thatīs what I absolutely love about nicolai/geometron attitude, you use the best part for the job from the get go, no shortcuts, not "updates" every other month pretending that what they made 2 months before was top notch back then but now we have created something even better. And sadly it seems people buy into this bullshit. Hmm, doss was real market leader undoubtedly, but back then competition was nowhere near as good as it is now. But thatīs only good for us customers.

  33. #933
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    Had my transfer back for warranty twice within 3 months before a sternly worded email got me a replacement for a bike yoke revive. It developed mushiness and then just stopped working within weeks both times I got it back from Fox. I bought it because I heard about its unparalleled durability, but I guess there are always exceptions to the rule.

  34. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by maimed02 View Post
    Had my transfer back for warranty twice within 3 months before a sternly worded email got me a replacement for a bike yoke revive. It developed mushiness and then just stopped working within weeks both times I got it back from Fox. I bought it because I heard about its unparalleled durability, but I guess there are always exceptions to the rule.
    I like the look of the revive. And yep, always exceptions.


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  35. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by maimed02 View Post
    Had my transfer back for warranty twice within 3 months before a sternly worded email got me a replacement for a bike yoke revive. It developed mushiness and then just stopped working within weeks both times I got it back from Fox. I bought it because I heard about its unparalleled durability, but I guess there are always exceptions to the rule.
    Yea there always will be exceptions, it still sucks to buy one of them thought. Talking about droppers, didnīt you guys consider going for eightpins system or something like that? I donīt know, maybe itīs not available to anyone other than liteville, but as a concept it looks like real step forward in terms of durability with larger bushings and improved bushing overlap and other advantages coming with more space to fit stuff into. Geometron with low standover and short seat tubes is the perfect candidate to me.

  36. #936
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    I really looked hard at a dual crown on my G16 29. Hard to swallow the price of an Öhlins DH or Formula NeroR or 40 lowered w/reduced offset crowns.

  37. #937
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    I really looked hard at a dual crown on my G16 29. Hard to swallow the price of an Öhlins DH or Formula NeroR or 40 lowered w/reduced offset crowns.
    1300euro for Nero R isnīt too bad compared to grip 2 36?

  38. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    Hi Pilot, Iīve noticed Chris is testing formula fork and brakes, do you know what he thinks about these products? Iīm pretty surprised with the work done on MORC conversion he is testing something completely different, also I have never seen his bike without hope brakes. Thanks!
    Just noticed that on GeoMetron website the G1 is offered with the Formula Selva R fork, I guess it's not surprising that Chris P likes these are they're so tuneable

    Does this mean Mojo Rising is now the UK distributor for Formula?

  39. #939
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    Did they have mutator chips for the chain stays?
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  40. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    Did they have mutator chips for the chain stays?
    Did who?
    Nothing good here.

  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by nouseforaname View Post
    the BB is running 355/360mm static. ......
    I'm going to get some offset bushes made to drop about 10mm off that figure,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Holy fvck what will the h/a be then?

  42. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by nouseforaname View Post
    Did who?
    maybe I should of said didn't Geometron/Nicolai have mutator chips for G19/16/15/13 chainstays already?
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  43. #943
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    maybe I should of said didn't Geometron/Nicolai have mutator chips for G19/16/15/13 chainstays already?
    Yes I thought so, although can't get my head around how you increase seat/shock stay length to account for different size mutator chips on chainstay

  44. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by tungsten View Post
    Holy fvck what will the h/a be then?
    About 60.5 depending on tyres, if mine was anything to go by feels good at that. Better with a shorter offset fork of about 44mm if possible. 51mm can be pretty quick steering at a very slow pace with that HA


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  45. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    About 60.5 depending on tyres, if mine was anything to go by feels good at that. Better with a shorter offset fork of about 44mm if possible. 51mm can be pretty quick steering at a very slow pace with that HA


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    Talking about your bike, itīs been a long time since you posted some pics...

  46. #946
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    What do the mutatorchips and 'rado' actually do? The broken english explanation on the nicolai website has me confused.
    Thanks

  47. #947
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    Quote Originally Posted by maimed02 View Post
    What do the mutatorchips and 'rado' actually do? The broken english explanation on the nicolai website has me confused.
    Thanks
    Mutators allow you to alter geometry for use with 27.5/29 inch wheels without change of geometry, RADO allows you to align rear wheel perfectly with the front wheel.

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    Thanks mate, appreciate the insight. Are there any guides on how to utilise these?
    I havethe mojo g16 and I kind of just threw 29er wheels in it (which are running without issue).

  49. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by maimed02 View Post
    Thanks mate, appreciate the insight. Are there any guides on how to utilise these?
    I havethe mojo g16 and I kind of just threw 29er wheels in it (which are running without issue).
    Lucky you From what Iīve read here when it comes to G16 you have to play with offset bushes/angleset/ seat positioning in the seat clamp to get the same numbers.

  50. #950
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    Quote Originally Posted by tungsten View Post
    Holy fvck what will the h/a be then?
    :shrugs: it's all an experiment. I might end up going hybrid.

    You're welcome to come taken it for a spin in the parking lot of you're interested as long as you don't mind moto brake setup- I'm in port moody.
    Nothing good here.

  51. #951
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    Quote Originally Posted by bathbill View Post
    Yes I thought so, although can't get my head around how you increase seat/shock stay length to account for different size mutator chips on chainstay
    You don’t it changes the BB and then you make other adjustments.

    Hence why the G1 was set up to be able to change the whole triangle in effect to allow one front triangle to accommodate different wheel sizes and setups/travel without messing up the basics of BB, HA, SA.


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  52. #952
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    Very good article as alwayshttps://nsmb.com/articles/chris-port...8sOYwGLSur6bi0
    Anyone running DHX2 in G16? What kind of setup are you using? Maybe Pivot could know this? I know CP wants to have progressive setup for good reason, how would you achieve this with DHX2? My guess would be LSC pretty close to open and HSC closed enough to avoid bottom out, however in article about mondraker dune with X2 setup for Andrew Dodd CP went for HSC almost fully opened (22 clicks from closed) and small amount of LCS (18 clicks). Obviously, X2 will have progressive air spring vs very linear coil in DHX2, so it seems not possible to avoid bottoming out without adding more HSC? Storia doesnīt have the same issue with proper HBO system, not to mention a lot more progressive frame kinematics of Geometron than Dune.

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    Hello, do someone know if it is possible to mount a 8.75 shock on the G15 to get like 160mm travel? Or is something in the way?

  54. #954
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mukkiman View Post
    Hello, do someone know if it is possible to mount a 8.75 shock on the G15 to get like 160mm travel? Or is something in the way?
    My guess would be you could either have really messed up geometry with standard bushings or less messed up geometry with offset bushings but rear wheel hitting seat tube. At least it seems like there isnīt huge amount of clearance to accommodate extra travel. Iīm interested what Pilot is going to say.

  55. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    My guess would be you could either have really messed up geometry with standard bushings or less messed up geometry with offset bushings but rear wheel hitting seat tube. At least it seems like there isnīt huge amount of clearance to accommodate extra travel. Iīm interested what Pilot is going to say.
    only with offset bushings of course. Its only like a 2mm longer shock then, but with more travel. I mean the G1 has 175mm of travel with a 230mm shock, but has also a steeper seatangle.

    I think the G15 looks a bit better and is also a bit cheaper but 145mm of travel is not realy enough for the do it all bike.

  56. #956
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mukkiman View Post
    only with offset bushings of course. Its only like a 2mm longer shock then, but with more travel. I mean the G1 has 175mm of travel with a 230mm shock, but has also a steeper seatangle.

    I think the G15 looks a bit better and is also a bit cheaper but 145mm of travel is not realy enough for the do it all bike.
    145mm of quality travel is more capable than 180mm of badly controlled travel, especially when paired with good geometry. If you want more, why not go for g16 instead? No reason not to really.

  57. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    145mm of quality travel is more capable than 180mm of badly controlled travel, especially when paired with good geometry. If you want more, why not go for g16 instead? No reason not to really.
    but i want a proper 29er with 29 geometry, not a 650B build into a 29er

  58. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mukkiman View Post
    only with offset bushings of course. Its only like a 2mm longer shock then, but with more travel. I mean the G1 has 175mm of travel with a 230mm shock, but has also a steeper seatangle.

    I think the G15 looks a bit better and is also a bit cheaper but 145mm of travel is not realy enough for the do it all bike.
    Not actually sure here as we didn’t choose to do G15, that was a Nicolai Independant decision, GeoMetron preferred to increase the G13 travel to 148mm or use the G16 which has preferable angles anyway (in ‘our’ opinion, not always everyone’s opinion!) even with 29 at both ends and with bushes

    If it doesn’t strike the ST then it will work but I agree unless a key price difference I’d suggest G16.

    I’d also agree that 148mm of good travel with a 160mm front is good for almost anything.



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  59. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mukkiman View Post
    but i want a proper 29er with 29 geometry, not a 650B build into a 29er
    An interesting perspective. We wanted a bike capable of both but to make it without any compromise needed more development. I would argue that a G16 run 29 is more proper 29 than most 29s! It still has a steeper seat angle than almost everything else even now with offset bushes. It only needs more than one offset if you want both a lower (than most) bb AND 175mm of rear travel.

    The choice of an 83mm bb at the time and adjustable chainstays was for both bigger riders and bigger wheels.

    But it is of course your choice as a rider.

    If you email Chris at GeoMetron or Marcel they will happily talk you though the detail of the impacts of what you suggest but I assure you the G16 is no less of a 29er than the G15 and the GeoMetron version always had big wheels as part of its makeup. I know this cos I sat down with Chris and did all the angles/specs, wishlist.



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  60. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    I would argue that a G16 run 29 is more proper 29 than most 29s!
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    I would like to know what would you consider proper-er then? no need to be humble man I cannot think of anything, even pole machine/stamina donīt have the angles quite as aggressive, I donīt think even even commencal 29er DH bike could get away from well ridden g16 with 180/175mm setup. If Amaury was piloting Commencal, then maybe...

  61. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostbiker View Post
    I would like to know what would you consider proper-er then? no need to be humble man I cannot think of anything, even pole machine/stamina donīt have the angles quite as aggressive, I donīt think even even commencal 29er DH bike could get away from well ridden g16 with 180/175mm setup. If Amaury was piloting Commencal, then maybe...
    I guess it was as much a figure of speech :-)

    Those guys can ride anything though can’t they!

    Given all of our testing and trying to get Jack Reading on a hybrid I find it very interesting the UCI have changed the (stupid) rule that only allowed the same sized wheels. Hybrid is allowed this year in DH


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  62. #962
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    i wouldnt buy a Mojo G16 if i would buy one, because i am german and only about 100km away from Nicolai, so i only would buy a Nicolai G16. The Nicolai G16 got a -17mm bb drop. Thats not realy enough for a "proper" 29er in my opinion. Even with bushings and in the 222mm pos. the bb drop would be okay, but then all the other angles wouldnīt be "that" great anymore. Of course they would be bettern then most other bikes...

    The hole point is that the G15 is in Sale for 2050€ so 650€ less then the G1.

  63. #963
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mukkiman View Post
    i wouldnt buy a Mojo G16 if i would buy one, because i am german and only about 100km away from Nicolai, so i only would buy a Nicolai G16. The Nicolai G16 got a -17mm bb drop. Thats not realy enough for a "proper" 29er in my opinion. Even with bushings and in the 222mm pos. the bb drop would be okay, but then all the other angles wouldnīt be "that" great anymore. Of course they would be bettern then most other bikes...

    The hole point is that the G15 is in Sale for 2050€ so 650€ less then the G1.
    Bb drop is only one element though. When running 155mm in 222 position with a 29 wheel would recommend a 2.5mm offset bushing.

    G15 is still an awesome bike. Fit a -2 headset, a 44mm offset fork and ‘boom’


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  64. #964
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    I find the adaptability of the G1 very interesting and I find myself once again spending a snowy winter looking at geometrons.

    Changing for a 29 to a 27.5, while keeping the same geometry, seems to be a matter of new wheels and changing the seat stay mutator from a 6.5mm to a 10mm (on a XL), am I reading their tech sheets correctly?

    It was mentioned that the G1 would replace G13/15/16, so how would I turn this into a 130mm (or any sub-150mm number) travel G13-style frame? A shorter stroke shock and whatever combination of mutators that gets me the geometry highlights I want?

    I always found the adaptability of the G16 interesting (wheelsize wise), but the new G1 seems to take it a step further albeit the mutators is a bit pricy, I only wish there was a google sheet or something that let me select amongst the mutators (alright, that exist already) and the shock stroke and see what comes out.

    I'm guessing the mutators are already proven durability wise, since the existing G16 has them on the chainstays.

  65. #965
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    If you write to Marcel, Chris or Paul at GeoMetron bikes they will tell you exactly what you need to achieve what you want.

    I will take a look and see how easy it is to read. I did ask Chris to make it obvious from a website visual frame drawing with selectable and deselect able elements e.g. wheelsizes, mutators, shock stroke etc. Where the results of changes were both visually represented and in a table.

    I’m guessing that not ready yet, I’ll ask him about it.

    As you mention a sub 150mm bike is achieved by changing the stroke/configuration of the shock, that is easiest from my chat with the EXT but I assume equally possible with some other shocks and using an appropriate fork stroke to match as desired.


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  66. #966
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    Hi Guys,

    Long time reader and Nicolai luster. Finally rationalised the decision enough and pulled the trigger on a G16. Pretty excited about this bike, coming off a Kona Honzo for the last 3 yrs. It's been fun, raced the Megavalanche on it, but now the ankles and back are starting to get sore. So without having ridden or seen one, I figured what the hell.

    I've been following the thread from the start & I'd always intended to build the G16 up as a 29r but now people have gone hybrid. I'm torn as to which setup to go with.

    In the interim though, I'm planning to run 170mm Lyrik up front and 155mm Monarch in the rear with 29r wheels from the Honzo.

    From what I've read people are running the 155mm shock in the 170mm position to slacken it out further and get the bb drop for the big wheels. Is this the only real tweak needed or are offset bushing required?

    If you run the hybrid setup in either 155mm or 170mm travel, do you need offset bushed or good to go?

    Thanks in advance for the help,
    Tom

  67. #967
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    Personal preference to degree but typically in 29, 155mm in ‘222’ shock position with 1 or 2 offset bushes, depending on sag used and fork a2c to get bb right, normally 1 enough. HA will be slack but fine, best with short offset crown as steering very quick with 51mm but you get used to it.

    If hybrid, shock position the same, no offset bushes needed, you can run one if you want a lower bb of course.



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  68. #968
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_pilot View Post
    Personal preference to degree but typically in 29, 155mm in ‘222’ shock position with 1 or 2 offset bushes, depending on sag used and fork a2c to get bb right, normally 1 enough. HA will be slack but fine, best with short offset crown as steering very quick with 51mm but you get used to it.

    If hybrid, shock position the same, no offset bushes needed, you can run one if you want a lower bb of course.



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    Thanks for the reply Pilot.

    Seems you can't get the 170mm Lyrik with the 42mm offset, will run 160mm for now.
    What length offset do you suggest, 2.5mm?

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