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  1. #1
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    The G1 Thread

    Thought I'd start a thread dedicated to the G1 for folks to share info and experiances.

    I've been off a "proper" bike for 15 months due to pretty complicated wrist injury.
    I wasn't sure if I'd be able to ride again at one stage so sold my G16 but recovery has gone better than expected.
    I've been wobbling around on my fat bike for the last few months as I've built strength and fitness back up but now its starting to get a bit "exciting" trying to ride 5" tyres hard on loose and dry trails!

    I've got a Longer G1 frame, Formula Selva R forks, Cura 4 brakes and 185mm Bike yoke dropper on order with Geometron.

    The bike is going to be built up as 160mm 29er running the new shimano 12speed drive train.

    I'm building up 30mm LB carbon rims onto 28hole XT hubs using CX rays and brass nipples. I'm trying to keep weight down to a reasonable level on this wheelset as I do quite a lot of climbing and long XC sections on my typical trail rides.

    This bike will be my only bike as I found that swapping between the G16 and a more conventional sized trail bike was a recipe for disaster in terms of body English and riding position etc.

    I'm a bit of an odd shape in that I'm relatively light and slim at 63Kg's and 179 - 180cm's but have short skinny legs and carry all my weight in my top half so forward of the saddle. I'm really interested to see how the higher stack of the G1 compares to the G16 as I tend to prefer a higher front end due to my physiology.

    I'll post updates once it all lands and I start to build it up and ride it.

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    Sounds good, we are almost the same shape to I知 a touch heavier.

    I must get around to checking sizing but was thinking of porting from my lOngest G16 to a Longer G1. Tho a touch worried about the drastic ETT change even if smaller reach change.


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    In an ideal world I would have driven down to Wales to ride both the longer and Longest as I too was a little concerned about the ETT but I kept reasoning that the reach value was what counts so I've just gone with it.

    There is now a beautiful frame plus an array of boxes of goodies sat in my workshop. Just waiting on the rims now. It took me a few minutes to work out where the port for the dropper cable was hidden, the frame is like a work of art!

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    Yeah, I told Chris I壇 go with Longer this time. I値l run a 35mm stem and put the bars back to std roll. Which will give me the same effective bb to bar reach which is my important measurement!


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  5. #5
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    Can I just pipe in here? I think the G1 may be the pinnacle in the new school geo revolution not to mention the multitude of ways it can be configured makes the G1 one the most interesting bike of the year, IMHO. Only 4 comments in this thread, and not a single major magazine review of the G1 either. Are we going into recession?

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    Just ridden my G1 xl for a week now. Started with 29/29er and built up fir curiosity, a 27.5 rear wheel to try the hybrid concept.
    First ride was really disappointing and actually ended with a crash, cause of the wet roots and rocks and me not used to the bike at all.
    Had to go from a 33 to a 40 Renthal Apex stem and go to a more narrow bar at 780mm to force myself going more forward. Also rides with the Ergon flanged grips tilted so much forward that I cannot stay other then over the front wheel.

    So after a few rides now, it starts to get more and more natural feeling. I need to remind me all the time about going more forward, but the bike is getting better and better.

    The hybrid set up, was better than I thought too. The 27.5 wheel that I was afraid should hook up is not a concern, and it makes the bike turn more easy to handle in turns.

    I have built up the bike with 200mm OneUp seatpost, 1x11 Sram XX1 with Race Face Next R and 28t chain ring. It climbs really well, but of course it is not a sprinter. Btw the 27.5 with same rubber as the 29er, Maxxis DHF is way more grippy, and brakes much better.

    Uses a Fox 36 Kashima set at 174mm travel, with smash pot coil on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pigglet13 View Post
    Thought I'd start a thread dedicated to the G1 for folks to share info and experiances.

    I've been off a "proper" bike for 15 months due to pretty complicated wrist injury.
    I wasn't sure if I'd be able to ride again at one stage so sold my G16 but recovery has gone better than expected.
    I've been wobbling around on my fat bike for the last few months as I've built strength and fitness back up but now its starting to get a bit "exciting" trying to ride 5" tyres hard on loose and dry trails!

    I've got a Longer G1 frame, Formula Selva R forks, Cura 4 brakes and 185mm Bike yoke dropper on order with Geometron.

    The bike is going to be built up as 160mm 29er running the new shimano 12speed drive train.

    I'm building up 30mm LB carbon rims onto 28hole XT hubs using CX rays and brass nipples. I'm trying to keep weight down to a reasonable level on this wheelset as I do quite a lot of climbing and long XC sections on my typical trail rides.

    This bike will be my only bike as I found that swapping between the G16 and a more conventional sized trail bike was a recipe for disaster in terms of body English and riding position etc.

    I'm a bit of an odd shape in that I'm relatively light and slim at 63Kg's and 179 - 180cm's but have short skinny legs and carry all my weight in my top half so forward of the saddle. I'm really interested to see how the higher stack of the G1 compares to the G16 as I tend to prefer a higher front end due to my physiology.

    I'll post updates once it all lands and I start to build it up and ride it.

  7. #7
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    I'm trying hard not to order. I've got a G16 (and G13 ) in the shed, and even though the G16 is second hand and has a good few years on it, it's still basically as new. Hard to justify changing when the bikes are so durable and high quality.

    That said - the heart wants, etc. I sort of have the money squirrelled away for a frame and fork.

  8. #8
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    Is the G1 using Metric shock or Imperial? If Imperial; 8.5x2.5 or 8.75x2.75?

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    The G1 uses a 230x65 metric shock.

  10. #10
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    Thoughts on 5'11" (180cm) person on a Long (small) G1 in 29er configuration?
    Would it be too small?
    My sweet spot for reach is about 470-480mm, based on the bikes I've demo'd in the past 6 months and felt comfortable on. (Transition Sentinel, Whyte G-170, Bird Aeris).

    I owned a Longest G13 in the past but it was simply too long on some of the tighter trails. Totally fine on the steeper, wider stuff.

  11. #11
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    HI NG13,

    I am 181.5cm and went with a Longer G1 (medium). I wouldn't want it any shorter in the reach.

    I have had 2 bikes the same as the longest to, about 515mm reach and I did okay on them but wasn't 100 percent happy. However I did ride a mates X longest at 535 reach on a particular track and I had fun to. But I know for use over varying terrain it would be unwieldy. I digress, coming back one size from the longest (515) has brought the bike back to me and I can utilize it more to my liking.

    The Longer reach seems pretty sweet. I get good manoeuvrability and still have speed stability. And you can mutator to, so when I go to higher speed bike park stuff I use a longer rear end. The G1 is so good, tune it to your ride.

    A longer with a 30mm stem would do you well I think.

    Cheers

  12. #12
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    I知 ~175cm on a G16 MOJO 29er Longer w/35mm stem. What that means to you; likely nothing but I feel apart of this conversation now.

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    Hey Punky, You were always apart of it, you are a mojo bro, can't get any better than that.

    Here is a pic of my mate and his Extra Longest G16 and me crouched down by my G1

    Both sensational bikes

    The G1 Thread-whistler.jpg

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    HI NG13,

    I am 181.5cm and went with a Longer G1 (medium). I wouldn't want it any shorter in the reach.

    I have had 2 bikes the same as the longest to, about 515mm reach and I did okay on them but wasn't 100 percent happy. However I did ride a mates X longest at 535 reach on a particular track and I had fun to. But I know for use over varying terrain it would be unwieldy. I digress, coming back one size from the longest (515) has brought the bike back to me and I can utilize it more to my liking.

    The Longer reach seems pretty sweet. I get good manoeuvrability and still have speed stability. And you can mutator to, so when I go to higher speed bike park stuff I use a longer rear end. The G1 is so good, tune it to your ride.

    A longer with a 30mm stem would do you well I think.

    Cheers
    Thanks, I appreciate the reply. Food for thought!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by NG13 View Post
    Thanks, I appreciate the reply. Food for thought!
    I agree, longest to long is a huge change. At your height Longwr would be the go to recommendation but if aggressive or very dh focussed Longest is good but not for everyone.

    I have Longest and very happy, I知 178cm but am going to go Longer this time as my riding is more all round than totally descent focussed these days.

    I set up the Longest to have same key dimensions and effective reach as my previous Longer using stem/bar/crank adjustments so it feels familiar but is just physically a tad longer in wb with the stability that brings but also the extra commitment and effort which can be more tiring on a long day (and I知 getting older)
    So on balance I think a Longer would work well and you could adjust it + or - 20-30 mm with stem and bar position if necessary.


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    My rims finally arrived, typically on a Thursday so by the time I got the rims measured and spokes ordered it was another weekend gone. Anyhoo, got the wheels build up on Friday night, finished the bike on Saturday so got out for preliminary set up on Sunday.

    If you've not seen one of these in the metal then they really are a work of art. Everyone who sees it comments on the quality of the frame.

    Anyway, initial thoughts...
    The back end is in another league compared to my G16. I'm not comparing apples to apples as the G16 was running 27.5 hoops whereas the G1 is running a 29" rear at the minute but I always felt my G16 with X2 was a over damped for me. Not so with the Storia. It's plusher than a super plush plush thing, really composed and yet still supportive and not wallowy.
    Believe the hype kids, it's the badgers nadgers!

    I have been making use of the climb switch which isn't a full lock out but firms up the shock significantly for longer, smoother climbs. I'm currently running an oval chain ring because on my hard tail and shorter travel bikes I found they offered a noticeable advantage on technical climbs but on the G1 it feels as though it may be fighting the suspension and initial thoughts are that a regular ring with the shock open may work better on rocky, rooty and technical climbs. Tonight I switched out the spring I was running on Sunday for the 5KG heavier spring and initial thoguhts are that it has resulted in a better balance between the front and rear of the bike from a suspension perspective.

    On to the front end: The Selva R seems a really nice fork straight out the box. For a set up nerd like myself the CTS system is a great feature as is the dual air system. I'm just waiting for a socket to be able to open up the air shaft to try removing a Neopos as I'm not getting full travel out of it at the moment.

    I'm still sussing out bike fit, mainly bar height and roll and reach adjustment. On my first ride the cockpit felt too short so I was fighting the bike a bit going into turns and nose diving landings but rolling the bars almost 90 degrees forward made a huge difference when I went out tonight. I didn't ride the same trails tonight as I rode on Sunday so will go back to compare performance with the revised bar position hopefully tomorrow.

    The Formula brakes are great, really powerful yet with great modulation. I was a bit concerned as the lack of lever adjustability compared to my trusty Hopes but there's plenty of reach adjustment and initial thoughts are they are a solid option.





    Last edited by Pigglet13; 09-05-2019 at 04:21 AM.

  17. #17
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    Been out out again on the local DH track this morning which is a great testing ground as there are a lot of features in a short run and at the moment its hard as hell and dusty so if your weight distribution isn't spot on then you will lose either the front or the back.

    My first ride on Sunday left me with the feeling that there was a front to rear suspension imbalance and that the bike was too small. I was struggling with front end grip and the back was bucking/nosediveing up over jumps which in the past I've found has been caused by my hands being too low and too close to my hips.
    I was also struggling a bit with getting the bike to turn in properly.

    After a chat with the guys at Geometron they suggested rolling the bars forward and lowering them.

    I've never run bars in anything other than a standard roll position before so this looked weird when first adjusted. I've rolled the bars from a "normal" position to around 60 to 70 degrees forward. This has resulted in the bars rise now moving the bars forward and the rear sweep contributing to the rise.
    It looks weird and feels a bit strange but what it's done has moved my hands 55mm forward from the standard position.
    I've measured this by clamping a string at the centre of the grip ends and then measuring the distance from the string to the centre of the steerer and the top of the head tube.

    Initially I was running 35mm stem, 40mm riser bars set up pretty flat/zero roll with 30mm of spacers under the stem. That resulted in my hands being pretty much central/level with the steerer in terms of forward axis and 108mm above the top of the head tube. (I deducted half the grip diameter from my measurements to give a measurement to the centre of the bars/grips)

    With bars rolled forward I've ended with my hands 55mm forward of the steerer and about 110mm above top of the head tube. My hands are now sitting in front of the stem which seems a little weird but hey ho!

    With this set up I feel I have noticeably more room to move on the bike, turn in and grip has improved dramatically and the bike now feels natural and balanced in the air.

    If you'd tried to convince me that it would have made such a difference before trying it I would have called BS!

    I did try removing some stem spacers but this instantly flet worse in terms of turn in and flight attitude. so went back to 20mm with the exaggerated bar roll.

    In terms of fork performance, the Selva has around 20mm of stantion still showing at bottom out so I was actually getting more travel out of the fork than I initially thought.

    Now I've got bike fit sorted I'm going out tonight to start pushing the bike harder to fine tune suspension as I have a 2 day enduro race in 10 days, my first post accident so keen to get as comfortable with the bike as possible before the red mist descends on race day!

  18. #18
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    A few more pics

    Please don't judge me on the state of my garage, my mother has dumped a load of stuff I have had stored at hers with us and it's become a bit of a tip this last week!










  19. #19
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    Made some build progress this week, waiting on a bb tool to finish.

    Still need to figure out the chain length. I'm used to air shocks where you can bleed all the air out to compress suspension for chain length. Not sure what to do with the coil spring.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The G1 Thread-img_1780.jpg  


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    Looks good!

    I went out last night and got a few hours out on the DH track and local trails and the bike is feeling better all the time.

    Without doubt the back end of this bike is the best suspension platform I've run on a trail/enduro bike. The faster I go into rocks and step downs the better it's feeling. It just begs you to push harder. It's so well damped and responsive.
    My G16 with X2 didn't feel quite as refined as my Switchblade or SB6, but the G1 with Storia is next level.

    Now I'm going faster and hitting stuff harder I need to up the pressure in the fork and possibly put the Neopos back in.
    Annoyingly my shock pump hose blew out while adjusting a mates rear shock on the first run so I couldn't tweek my forks.

    Based on last nights ride I'm now pretty convinced I've ordered the wrong size and should have gone large/longest. The bike is infinitely more balanced with the bars rolled right forwards and the attitude in flight is now pretty neutral but I'm still feeling a bit too far over the front wheel on really steep terrain.
    On the subject of chain length, I made a cock up due to rushing to get the bike finished.
    Earlier in the thread I said that it felt like the oval chain ring was fighting the suspension when climbing. That was due to me cutting the chain too short.

    I wrapped it round the big ring and front ring as normal and just added 4 links.

    The new shimano XT 12 speed derailler has noticeably bigger jockey wheels than the 11 speed range so coupled with the longer travel it was pulling a bit tight in 1st and 2nd gear.

    After my first ride I put a new chain on with 6 extra links and it's fine.
    Super smooth shifts and no pedal feedback when climbing in 1st and 2nd.
    With the chain fitted correctly through the derailler the cage is just off it's stop in 12th gear ie there is just a little bit of tension on it with the chain on the smallest sprocket on the cassette.

    I'm running XT 12 speed with a hope upper chain guide and the clutch on the mech disengaged and it's super smooth, completely quiet with no chain slap or noise.
    It's the quietest chain set I've run on a mountain bike.

    The XT hubs are an absolute bargain at 」150 for the pair as well. The only negative is that the rear hub is almost silent so doesn't give hedge creepers lurking round a blind bend any advance warning of your approach!

  21. #21
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    Loving the G1s

    Time to add some more G1 love. What great bikes, I like the purple anno above and the black one is looking mean. Nice bikes guys.

    Here are some more pictures of my G1 jigger. I saw on GMs insta or fb page they were checking about the eeWings. I have bashed these for ages, tick, all good. Love them.

    The G1 Thread-geo-6.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-7.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-8.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-9.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-10.jpg

    And reaching the Top of the World with my mate and his G16

    The G1 Thread-top-world.jpg

    And we also meet a brother, brother Nic

    The G1 Thread-brother-nic-.jpg

    The G1 is a great bike, perfect in Whistler. And we went to Squamish and pedalled up for some classic trails, loam and sneaky tech runs. Mullet is king of the tech

    If you love adventure, the G1 is the gun.

  22. #22
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    Tell us more about the Mojo conversion on your 36.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by honourablegeorge View Post
    Tell us more about the Mojo conversion on your 36.
    Yes please!

  24. #24
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    Well Mojo sell the kit and I think they sell the complete set up. In my case, this is an early pre-etched version. I was desperate and had a trip to Whislter coming up, and the guys at Mojo and GeoM are just fantastic and so supportive. They made me an early kit. I had to supply the lowers.

    I had a friend who wanted the rest of the Fox fork, so I bought a new one, kept the lowers and inserted the 1 metre stanchions in. Holy heck they are long.

    Set up they are very supple off the top and are magical to me. Soft off the top, good mid support for steeps and pop and a controlled bottom out. Which I used once I sorted the right air pressure for me.

    A lot of people have ridden DH bikes with triple crowns, but to restate the obvious. These are amazing. Big G outs, big high speed compressions all are laughed at. There's a couple of local compressions I ride regularly and when I rode it with my G1 I was amazed to discover how much my trail bike flexs in the fork.

    Riding down some tigher flow and ripping turns, I had to adjust. The first 3 turns I rode into the bush on the inside of the exit. I thought the first one I was asleep and needed to get up to speed, but repeating it had me questioning what is going on. The fact is, the bike is more direct and normal steering input was too much steering. It is so direct, you will need to adjust. And once you do, it is a strength and you start to capitalise on this ability. I found riding steep black tech stuff that you can change line far more easily. And in fact, I tended to look for that option as it was so controlled. These forks lift your level of command.

    It is another level of playing field for the front in terms of stiffness. As I said, I rode some hairy tech with tricky tight turns between trees that are 780mm apart when my bars are 800mm and I can negotiate these turns fine. I mention this as the steering lock is limited by the frame buffers on the stanchions. I was initially worried about this but it didn't limit me from going past my limit.

    Super tough forks, these are performance forks. Oh, the offset is great however I already run short offset forks, so I was accustom to this aspect.

    I hope that helps. Again, amazing guys at GeoM and Mojo, so helpful and so into riding and sharing the experience. Their service is second to none.

  25. #25
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    Here is the fork assembled on the work bench before fitting to the bike.

    As you can see, these were pulled out early in the manufacture and missed out on the etching phase. This doesn't worry me, I just want to use them.

    The G1 Thread-morc-5a.jpg

  26. #26
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    Also want the Morc 36 kit on my G1. Also having second thoughts about the limitation in turns with dc fork.
    So you are saying that it is not limiting your turn radius in tight corners?

  27. #27
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    Hi Rumblefish,

    Yes that is correct, I though it might, but it didn't. I got around some steep tight and narrow stuff that would be hard to get anything around.

    But, that could be a ride approach on my behalf. If you drive it around a corner like a bus, then you will feel the lock stop touch your frame.

    There are so many factors to getting around, lock is one, but lean angle, approach, any room to skid, stop and hop the back around are all in there as well as more.

    I was pleasantly surprised and after the first couple of good attempts, it didn't stop me from having a crack at anything. Didn't hold me back. But I know its there, so that might worry some people, knowing it could can put people off.

    Maybe it depends on mindset and riding style.

    For its strengths though, it is well worth it.

    Not sure I helped....

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Here is the fork assembled on the work bench before fitting to the bike.

    As you can see, these were pulled out early in the manufacture and missed out on the etching phase. This doesn't worry me, I just want to use them.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Morc 5a.jpg 
Views:	14 
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ID:	1282221
    Hi,

    Did you measure the weight of this bad boy? And what is the travel and a-c length?

    Thanks!

  29. #29
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    Wow. There are some beauties in here! And that MORC36, I really hope to try that.

    I thought it fitting to share my new G1 with everyone. There's a story on the build on NSMB and if anyone has questions pop them in here, or there, and I'll try and help with answers. Note, the 36 is no longer on there and I've been quite impressed with the ヨhlins RXF 36 m.2 it's good.

    The G1 Thread-48795457736_fcada05d63_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795100018_dbace1f3ea_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795460221_7f5c4742ca_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795106493_7ac71092e2_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795106133_25f3dd02d3_k.jpg

  30. #30
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    Some really nice looking builds guys!

    WilliamK, The MORC 36 looks great. I built up the G16 I had with 40's and that was revelation in terms of plushness and stiffness.
    I honestly didn't find any problem with lock limitation due to the steering bumpers.

    I went single crown on my G1 and whilst the Selva's are great forks, I can't help feeling that the back end of the G1 is so good that it makes the forks feel a little outclassed on really fast and more extreme terrain. That may on part be used to me running bikes that have had more travel up front than out back.

    I still need to get the fork properly dialled as I've not been riding in the last couple of weeks but in my gut I feel a double crown fork will really open the bikes capabilities in more extreme terrain. I was trying to keep things sensible from a weight perspective on this build as it's now my only bike but even still, the lure of the MORC is calling!

    On another note, what are folks running spring and travel wise in relation to their weight and how do you find it?
    I'm around 64kg and running a 275lb spring for 31% sag in 29er flavour and 160mm travel. I have a couple of scales for checking front to rear balance and I'm running at around 62% rear, 38% front.

    I'm going to try a 300lbs spring at the weekend as I'm running quite a lot of damping at the moment and suspect a heavier spring with a little less damping may improve speed on rough natural terrain.
    At this point I should re-state I'm a tinkerer and constantly like to experiment so it's not that I'm un happy with the bike, I'm just constantly searching for an improvement (that's the reason I have about 15 almost new tyres in the garage).

  31. #31
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    I am seeking an advice.
    I am getting a warranty replacement frame from Santa Cruz and will.lost likely get a Tallboy 4. Since I am between sizes and am intrigued with these new forward Geo bikes like G1, I am thinking to upsize to a Large.

    Compering the TB4 Geo with other American brands bikes in the same category, TBs # are pretty standard. Reach, STA, WB # are very close.
    However, if compared to more progressive, forward Geo of some European brands (Nikolai, Pole, Mondraker...) SC is fairly conservative.
    I like steep ST, and would run the saddle all the way forward.
    Also, most likely CS in longer setting (440mm), to help balance the bike and keep more weight on the front.
    5'8" and 31" inseam
    Reach on L is 470mm.
    Good idea going with L, since this is a shorter travel 120mm bike?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Well Mojo sell the kit and I think they sell the complete set up. In my case, this is an early pre-etched version. I was desperate and had a trip to Whislter coming up, and the guys at Mojo and GeoM are just fantastic and so supportive. They made me an early kit. I had to supply the lowers.
    This is pretty wild to me. It looks amazing. But why run a dual crown 36 over the full 40/49 - is that purely a weight consideration? I would imagine that the offset is the same with either MORC offering... You also mentioned that you were pedaling in Squamish - is the Mojo dual crown setup your standard build for trail riding or did you swap that on just for the Whistler trip? I hate pedaling my DH bike and it's not just the back end that makes it suck - I can't imagine trying to clean tech climbs or pedal uphill for any distance with that (Avy tuned) RS Boxxer RC either. Do you have a single crown setup for your "normal" / no shuttle/lift access riding?
    Last edited by Khai; 3 Days Ago at 10:27 AM.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    623
    Hi Jazza,
    As a long time past SC owner I was excited to see the new TB4. Finally SC are back. I was thinking the new TB4 is the new blur trc - in a fashion. Fun fun and fun.

    I would not be concerned at all with the L for you. Personally at 5'11' I would go for the XL, so L would be fine for you.

    You would be so close, and the saddle can be your adjustment, 5mm forward wouldn't hurt. I have had a Pole and I like the steep SA. For me if I were to do a TB 4, I would go XL, run it long in the back, and slack it out 1 deg at the headset(steep the SA a smidge then), make sure I run a 30mm stem and as low as possible on the fork offset. It would rally hard and still pop. Perfect bike for hooning. Light and all day climbing still possible
    Just my twisted thoughts mate.
    Cheers

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