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  1. #1
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    The G1 Thread

    Thought I'd start a thread dedicated to the G1 for folks to share info and experiances.

    I've been off a "proper" bike for 15 months due to pretty complicated wrist injury.
    I wasn't sure if I'd be able to ride again at one stage so sold my G16 but recovery has gone better than expected.
    I've been wobbling around on my fat bike for the last few months as I've built strength and fitness back up but now its starting to get a bit "exciting" trying to ride 5" tyres hard on loose and dry trails!

    I've got a Longer G1 frame, Formula Selva R forks, Cura 4 brakes and 185mm Bike yoke dropper on order with Geometron.

    The bike is going to be built up as 160mm 29er running the new shimano 12speed drive train.

    I'm building up 30mm LB carbon rims onto 28hole XT hubs using CX rays and brass nipples. I'm trying to keep weight down to a reasonable level on this wheelset as I do quite a lot of climbing and long XC sections on my typical trail rides.

    This bike will be my only bike as I found that swapping between the G16 and a more conventional sized trail bike was a recipe for disaster in terms of body English and riding position etc.

    I'm a bit of an odd shape in that I'm relatively light and slim at 63Kg's and 179 - 180cm's but have short skinny legs and carry all my weight in my top half so forward of the saddle. I'm really interested to see how the higher stack of the G1 compares to the G16 as I tend to prefer a higher front end due to my physiology.

    I'll post updates once it all lands and I start to build it up and ride it.

  2. #2
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    Sounds good, we are almost the same shape to I知 a touch heavier.

    I must get around to checking sizing but was thinking of porting from my lOngest G16 to a Longer G1. Tho a touch worried about the drastic ETT change even if smaller reach change.


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  3. #3
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    In an ideal world I would have driven down to Wales to ride both the longer and Longest as I too was a little concerned about the ETT but I kept reasoning that the reach value was what counts so I've just gone with it.

    There is now a beautiful frame plus an array of boxes of goodies sat in my workshop. Just waiting on the rims now. It took me a few minutes to work out where the port for the dropper cable was hidden, the frame is like a work of art!

  4. #4
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    Yeah, I told Chris I壇 go with Longer this time. I値l run a 35mm stem and put the bars back to std roll. Which will give me the same effective bb to bar reach which is my important measurement!


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  5. #5
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    Can I just pipe in here? I think the G1 may be the pinnacle in the new school geo revolution not to mention the multitude of ways it can be configured makes the G1 one the most interesting bike of the year, IMHO. Only 4 comments in this thread, and not a single major magazine review of the G1 either. Are we going into recession?

  6. #6
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    Just ridden my G1 xl for a week now. Started with 29/29er and built up fir curiosity, a 27.5 rear wheel to try the hybrid concept.
    First ride was really disappointing and actually ended with a crash, cause of the wet roots and rocks and me not used to the bike at all.
    Had to go from a 33 to a 40 Renthal Apex stem and go to a more narrow bar at 780mm to force myself going more forward. Also rides with the Ergon flanged grips tilted so much forward that I cannot stay other then over the front wheel.

    So after a few rides now, it starts to get more and more natural feeling. I need to remind me all the time about going more forward, but the bike is getting better and better.

    The hybrid set up, was better than I thought too. The 27.5 wheel that I was afraid should hook up is not a concern, and it makes the bike turn more easy to handle in turns.

    I have built up the bike with 200mm OneUp seatpost, 1x11 Sram XX1 with Race Face Next R and 28t chain ring. It climbs really well, but of course it is not a sprinter. Btw the 27.5 with same rubber as the 29er, Maxxis DHF is way more grippy, and brakes much better.

    Uses a Fox 36 Kashima set at 174mm travel, with smash pot coil on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pigglet13 View Post
    Thought I'd start a thread dedicated to the G1 for folks to share info and experiances.

    I've been off a "proper" bike for 15 months due to pretty complicated wrist injury.
    I wasn't sure if I'd be able to ride again at one stage so sold my G16 but recovery has gone better than expected.
    I've been wobbling around on my fat bike for the last few months as I've built strength and fitness back up but now its starting to get a bit "exciting" trying to ride 5" tyres hard on loose and dry trails!

    I've got a Longer G1 frame, Formula Selva R forks, Cura 4 brakes and 185mm Bike yoke dropper on order with Geometron.

    The bike is going to be built up as 160mm 29er running the new shimano 12speed drive train.

    I'm building up 30mm LB carbon rims onto 28hole XT hubs using CX rays and brass nipples. I'm trying to keep weight down to a reasonable level on this wheelset as I do quite a lot of climbing and long XC sections on my typical trail rides.

    This bike will be my only bike as I found that swapping between the G16 and a more conventional sized trail bike was a recipe for disaster in terms of body English and riding position etc.

    I'm a bit of an odd shape in that I'm relatively light and slim at 63Kg's and 179 - 180cm's but have short skinny legs and carry all my weight in my top half so forward of the saddle. I'm really interested to see how the higher stack of the G1 compares to the G16 as I tend to prefer a higher front end due to my physiology.

    I'll post updates once it all lands and I start to build it up and ride it.

  7. #7
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    I'm trying hard not to order. I've got a G16 (and G13 ) in the shed, and even though the G16 is second hand and has a good few years on it, it's still basically as new. Hard to justify changing when the bikes are so durable and high quality.

    That said - the heart wants, etc. I sort of have the money squirrelled away for a frame and fork.

  8. #8
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    Is the G1 using Metric shock or Imperial? If Imperial; 8.5x2.5 or 8.75x2.75?

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    The G1 uses a 230x65 metric shock.

  10. #10
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    Thoughts on 5'11" (180cm) person on a Long (small) G1 in 29er configuration?
    Would it be too small?
    My sweet spot for reach is about 470-480mm, based on the bikes I've demo'd in the past 6 months and felt comfortable on. (Transition Sentinel, Whyte G-170, Bird Aeris).

    I owned a Longest G13 in the past but it was simply too long on some of the tighter trails. Totally fine on the steeper, wider stuff.

  11. #11
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    HI NG13,

    I am 181.5cm and went with a Longer G1 (medium). I wouldn't want it any shorter in the reach.

    I have had 2 bikes the same as the longest to, about 515mm reach and I did okay on them but wasn't 100 percent happy. However I did ride a mates X longest at 535 reach on a particular track and I had fun to. But I know for use over varying terrain it would be unwieldy. I digress, coming back one size from the longest (515) has brought the bike back to me and I can utilize it more to my liking.

    The Longer reach seems pretty sweet. I get good manoeuvrability and still have speed stability. And you can mutator to, so when I go to higher speed bike park stuff I use a longer rear end. The G1 is so good, tune it to your ride.

    A longer with a 30mm stem would do you well I think.

    Cheers

  12. #12
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    I知 ~175cm on a G16 MOJO 29er Longer w/35mm stem. What that means to you; likely nothing but I feel apart of this conversation now.

  13. #13
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    Hey Punky, You were always apart of it, you are a mojo bro, can't get any better than that.

    Here is a pic of my mate and his Extra Longest G16 and me crouched down by my G1

    Both sensational bikes

    The G1 Thread-whistler.jpg

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    HI NG13,

    I am 181.5cm and went with a Longer G1 (medium). I wouldn't want it any shorter in the reach.

    I have had 2 bikes the same as the longest to, about 515mm reach and I did okay on them but wasn't 100 percent happy. However I did ride a mates X longest at 535 reach on a particular track and I had fun to. But I know for use over varying terrain it would be unwieldy. I digress, coming back one size from the longest (515) has brought the bike back to me and I can utilize it more to my liking.

    The Longer reach seems pretty sweet. I get good manoeuvrability and still have speed stability. And you can mutator to, so when I go to higher speed bike park stuff I use a longer rear end. The G1 is so good, tune it to your ride.

    A longer with a 30mm stem would do you well I think.

    Cheers
    Thanks, I appreciate the reply. Food for thought!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by NG13 View Post
    Thanks, I appreciate the reply. Food for thought!
    I agree, longest to long is a huge change. At your height Longwr would be the go to recommendation but if aggressive or very dh focussed Longest is good but not for everyone.

    I have Longest and very happy, I知 178cm but am going to go Longer this time as my riding is more all round than totally descent focussed these days.

    I set up the Longest to have same key dimensions and effective reach as my previous Longer using stem/bar/crank adjustments so it feels familiar but is just physically a tad longer in wb with the stability that brings but also the extra commitment and effort which can be more tiring on a long day (and I知 getting older)
    So on balance I think a Longer would work well and you could adjust it + or - 20-30 mm with stem and bar position if necessary.


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    My rims finally arrived, typically on a Thursday so by the time I got the rims measured and spokes ordered it was another weekend gone. Anyhoo, got the wheels build up on Friday night, finished the bike on Saturday so got out for preliminary set up on Sunday.

    If you've not seen one of these in the metal then they really are a work of art. Everyone who sees it comments on the quality of the frame.

    Anyway, initial thoughts...
    The back end is in another league compared to my G16. I'm not comparing apples to apples as the G16 was running 27.5 hoops whereas the G1 is running a 29" rear at the minute but I always felt my G16 with X2 was a over damped for me. Not so with the Storia. It's plusher than a super plush plush thing, really composed and yet still supportive and not wallowy.
    Believe the hype kids, it's the badgers nadgers!

    I have been making use of the climb switch which isn't a full lock out but firms up the shock significantly for longer, smoother climbs. I'm currently running an oval chain ring because on my hard tail and shorter travel bikes I found they offered a noticeable advantage on technical climbs but on the G1 it feels as though it may be fighting the suspension and initial thoughts are that a regular ring with the shock open may work better on rocky, rooty and technical climbs. Tonight I switched out the spring I was running on Sunday for the 5KG heavier spring and initial thoguhts are that it has resulted in a better balance between the front and rear of the bike from a suspension perspective.

    On to the front end: The Selva R seems a really nice fork straight out the box. For a set up nerd like myself the CTS system is a great feature as is the dual air system. I'm just waiting for a socket to be able to open up the air shaft to try removing a Neopos as I'm not getting full travel out of it at the moment.

    I'm still sussing out bike fit, mainly bar height and roll and reach adjustment. On my first ride the cockpit felt too short so I was fighting the bike a bit going into turns and nose diving landings but rolling the bars almost 90 degrees forward made a huge difference when I went out tonight. I didn't ride the same trails tonight as I rode on Sunday so will go back to compare performance with the revised bar position hopefully tomorrow.

    The Formula brakes are great, really powerful yet with great modulation. I was a bit concerned as the lack of lever adjustability compared to my trusty Hopes but there's plenty of reach adjustment and initial thoughts are they are a solid option.





    Last edited by Pigglet13; 09-05-2019 at 04:21 AM.

  17. #17
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    Been out out again on the local DH track this morning which is a great testing ground as there are a lot of features in a short run and at the moment its hard as hell and dusty so if your weight distribution isn't spot on then you will lose either the front or the back.

    My first ride on Sunday left me with the feeling that there was a front to rear suspension imbalance and that the bike was too small. I was struggling with front end grip and the back was bucking/nosediveing up over jumps which in the past I've found has been caused by my hands being too low and too close to my hips.
    I was also struggling a bit with getting the bike to turn in properly.

    After a chat with the guys at Geometron they suggested rolling the bars forward and lowering them.

    I've never run bars in anything other than a standard roll position before so this looked weird when first adjusted. I've rolled the bars from a "normal" position to around 60 to 70 degrees forward. This has resulted in the bars rise now moving the bars forward and the rear sweep contributing to the rise.
    It looks weird and feels a bit strange but what it's done has moved my hands 55mm forward from the standard position.
    I've measured this by clamping a string at the centre of the grip ends and then measuring the distance from the string to the centre of the steerer and the top of the head tube.

    Initially I was running 35mm stem, 40mm riser bars set up pretty flat/zero roll with 30mm of spacers under the stem. That resulted in my hands being pretty much central/level with the steerer in terms of forward axis and 108mm above the top of the head tube. (I deducted half the grip diameter from my measurements to give a measurement to the centre of the bars/grips)

    With bars rolled forward I've ended with my hands 55mm forward of the steerer and about 110mm above top of the head tube. My hands are now sitting in front of the stem which seems a little weird but hey ho!

    With this set up I feel I have noticeably more room to move on the bike, turn in and grip has improved dramatically and the bike now feels natural and balanced in the air.

    If you'd tried to convince me that it would have made such a difference before trying it I would have called BS!

    I did try removing some stem spacers but this instantly flet worse in terms of turn in and flight attitude. so went back to 20mm with the exaggerated bar roll.

    In terms of fork performance, the Selva has around 20mm of stantion still showing at bottom out so I was actually getting more travel out of the fork than I initially thought.

    Now I've got bike fit sorted I'm going out tonight to start pushing the bike harder to fine tune suspension as I have a 2 day enduro race in 10 days, my first post accident so keen to get as comfortable with the bike as possible before the red mist descends on race day!

  18. #18
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    A few more pics

    Please don't judge me on the state of my garage, my mother has dumped a load of stuff I have had stored at hers with us and it's become a bit of a tip this last week!










  19. #19
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    Made some build progress this week, waiting on a bb tool to finish.

    Still need to figure out the chain length. I'm used to air shocks where you can bleed all the air out to compress suspension for chain length. Not sure what to do with the coil spring.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The G1 Thread-img_1780.jpg  


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    Looks good!

    I went out last night and got a few hours out on the DH track and local trails and the bike is feeling better all the time.

    Without doubt the back end of this bike is the best suspension platform I've run on a trail/enduro bike. The faster I go into rocks and step downs the better it's feeling. It just begs you to push harder. It's so well damped and responsive.
    My G16 with X2 didn't feel quite as refined as my Switchblade or SB6, but the G1 with Storia is next level.

    Now I'm going faster and hitting stuff harder I need to up the pressure in the fork and possibly put the Neopos back in.
    Annoyingly my shock pump hose blew out while adjusting a mates rear shock on the first run so I couldn't tweek my forks.

    Based on last nights ride I'm now pretty convinced I've ordered the wrong size and should have gone large/longest. The bike is infinitely more balanced with the bars rolled right forwards and the attitude in flight is now pretty neutral but I'm still feeling a bit too far over the front wheel on really steep terrain.
    On the subject of chain length, I made a cock up due to rushing to get the bike finished.
    Earlier in the thread I said that it felt like the oval chain ring was fighting the suspension when climbing. That was due to me cutting the chain too short.

    I wrapped it round the big ring and front ring as normal and just added 4 links.

    The new shimano XT 12 speed derailler has noticeably bigger jockey wheels than the 11 speed range so coupled with the longer travel it was pulling a bit tight in 1st and 2nd gear.

    After my first ride I put a new chain on with 6 extra links and it's fine.
    Super smooth shifts and no pedal feedback when climbing in 1st and 2nd.
    With the chain fitted correctly through the derailler the cage is just off it's stop in 12th gear ie there is just a little bit of tension on it with the chain on the smallest sprocket on the cassette.

    I'm running XT 12 speed with a hope upper chain guide and the clutch on the mech disengaged and it's super smooth, completely quiet with no chain slap or noise.
    It's the quietest chain set I've run on a mountain bike.

    The XT hubs are an absolute bargain at 」150 for the pair as well. The only negative is that the rear hub is almost silent so doesn't give hedge creepers lurking round a blind bend any advance warning of your approach!

  21. #21
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    Loving the G1s

    Time to add some more G1 love. What great bikes, I like the purple anno above and the black one is looking mean. Nice bikes guys.

    Here are some more pictures of my G1 jigger. I saw on GMs insta or fb page they were checking about the eeWings. I have bashed these for ages, tick, all good. Love them.

    The G1 Thread-geo-6.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-7.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-8.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-9.jpg

    The G1 Thread-geo-10.jpg

    And reaching the Top of the World with my mate and his G16

    The G1 Thread-top-world.jpg

    And we also meet a brother, brother Nic

    The G1 Thread-brother-nic-.jpg

    The G1 is a great bike, perfect in Whistler. And we went to Squamish and pedalled up for some classic trails, loam and sneaky tech runs. Mullet is king of the tech

    If you love adventure, the G1 is the gun.

  22. #22
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    Tell us more about the Mojo conversion on your 36.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by honourablegeorge View Post
    Tell us more about the Mojo conversion on your 36.
    Yes please!

  24. #24
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    Well Mojo sell the kit and I think they sell the complete set up. In my case, this is an early pre-etched version. I was desperate and had a trip to Whislter coming up, and the guys at Mojo and GeoM are just fantastic and so supportive. They made me an early kit. I had to supply the lowers.

    I had a friend who wanted the rest of the Fox fork, so I bought a new one, kept the lowers and inserted the 1 metre stanchions in. Holy heck they are long.

    Set up they are very supple off the top and are magical to me. Soft off the top, good mid support for steeps and pop and a controlled bottom out. Which I used once I sorted the right air pressure for me.

    A lot of people have ridden DH bikes with triple crowns, but to restate the obvious. These are amazing. Big G outs, big high speed compressions all are laughed at. There's a couple of local compressions I ride regularly and when I rode it with my G1 I was amazed to discover how much my trail bike flexs in the fork.

    Riding down some tigher flow and ripping turns, I had to adjust. The first 3 turns I rode into the bush on the inside of the exit. I thought the first one I was asleep and needed to get up to speed, but repeating it had me questioning what is going on. The fact is, the bike is more direct and normal steering input was too much steering. It is so direct, you will need to adjust. And once you do, it is a strength and you start to capitalise on this ability. I found riding steep black tech stuff that you can change line far more easily. And in fact, I tended to look for that option as it was so controlled. These forks lift your level of command.

    It is another level of playing field for the front in terms of stiffness. As I said, I rode some hairy tech with tricky tight turns between trees that are 780mm apart when my bars are 800mm and I can negotiate these turns fine. I mention this as the steering lock is limited by the frame buffers on the stanchions. I was initially worried about this but it didn't limit me from going past my limit.

    Super tough forks, these are performance forks. Oh, the offset is great however I already run short offset forks, so I was accustom to this aspect.

    I hope that helps. Again, amazing guys at GeoM and Mojo, so helpful and so into riding and sharing the experience. Their service is second to none.

  25. #25
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    Here is the fork assembled on the work bench before fitting to the bike.

    As you can see, these were pulled out early in the manufacture and missed out on the etching phase. This doesn't worry me, I just want to use them.

    The G1 Thread-morc-5a.jpg

  26. #26
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    Also want the Morc 36 kit on my G1. Also having second thoughts about the limitation in turns with dc fork.
    So you are saying that it is not limiting your turn radius in tight corners?

  27. #27
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    Hi Rumblefish,

    Yes that is correct, I though it might, but it didn't. I got around some steep tight and narrow stuff that would be hard to get anything around.

    But, that could be a ride approach on my behalf. If you drive it around a corner like a bus, then you will feel the lock stop touch your frame.

    There are so many factors to getting around, lock is one, but lean angle, approach, any room to skid, stop and hop the back around are all in there as well as more.

    I was pleasantly surprised and after the first couple of good attempts, it didn't stop me from having a crack at anything. Didn't hold me back. But I know its there, so that might worry some people, knowing it could can put people off.

    Maybe it depends on mindset and riding style.

    For its strengths though, it is well worth it.

    Not sure I helped....

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Here is the fork assembled on the work bench before fitting to the bike.

    As you can see, these were pulled out early in the manufacture and missed out on the etching phase. This doesn't worry me, I just want to use them.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Morc 5a.jpg 
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    Hi,

    Did you measure the weight of this bad boy? And what is the travel and a-c length?

    Thanks!

  29. #29
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    Wow. There are some beauties in here! And that MORC36, I really hope to try that.

    I thought it fitting to share my new G1 with everyone. There's a story on the build on NSMB and if anyone has questions pop them in here, or there, and I'll try and help with answers. Note, the 36 is no longer on there and I've been quite impressed with the ヨhlins RXF 36 m.2 it's good.

    The G1 Thread-48795457736_fcada05d63_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795100018_dbace1f3ea_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795460221_7f5c4742ca_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795106493_7ac71092e2_k.jpg

    The G1 Thread-48795106133_25f3dd02d3_k.jpg

  30. #30
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    Some really nice looking builds guys!

    WilliamK, The MORC 36 looks great. I built up the G16 I had with 40's and that was revelation in terms of plushness and stiffness.
    I honestly didn't find any problem with lock limitation due to the steering bumpers.

    I went single crown on my G1 and whilst the Selva's are great forks, I can't help feeling that the back end of the G1 is so good that it makes the forks feel a little outclassed on really fast and more extreme terrain. That may on part be used to me running bikes that have had more travel up front than out back.

    I still need to get the fork properly dialled as I've not been riding in the last couple of weeks but in my gut I feel a double crown fork will really open the bikes capabilities in more extreme terrain. I was trying to keep things sensible from a weight perspective on this build as it's now my only bike but even still, the lure of the MORC is calling!

    On another note, what are folks running spring and travel wise in relation to their weight and how do you find it?
    I'm around 64kg and running a 275lb spring for 31% sag in 29er flavour and 160mm travel. I have a couple of scales for checking front to rear balance and I'm running at around 62% rear, 38% front.

    I'm going to try a 300lbs spring at the weekend as I'm running quite a lot of damping at the moment and suspect a heavier spring with a little less damping may improve speed on rough natural terrain.
    At this point I should re-state I'm a tinkerer and constantly like to experiment so it's not that I'm un happy with the bike, I'm just constantly searching for an improvement (that's the reason I have about 15 almost new tyres in the garage).

  31. #31
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    I am seeking an advice.
    I am getting a warranty replacement frame from Santa Cruz and will.lost likely get a Tallboy 4. Since I am between sizes and am intrigued with these new forward Geo bikes like G1, I am thinking to upsize to a Large.

    Compering the TB4 Geo with other American brands bikes in the same category, TBs # are pretty standard. Reach, STA, WB # are very close.
    However, if compared to more progressive, forward Geo of some European brands (Nikolai, Pole, Mondraker...) SC is fairly conservative.
    I like steep ST, and would run the saddle all the way forward.
    Also, most likely CS in longer setting (440mm), to help balance the bike and keep more weight on the front.
    5'8" and 31" inseam
    Reach on L is 470mm.
    Good idea going with L, since this is a shorter travel 120mm bike?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Well Mojo sell the kit and I think they sell the complete set up. In my case, this is an early pre-etched version. I was desperate and had a trip to Whislter coming up, and the guys at Mojo and GeoM are just fantastic and so supportive. They made me an early kit. I had to supply the lowers.
    This is pretty wild to me. It looks amazing. But why run a dual crown 36 over the full 40/49 - is that purely a weight consideration? I would imagine that the offset is the same with either MORC offering... You also mentioned that you were pedaling in Squamish - is the Mojo dual crown setup your standard build for trail riding or did you swap that on just for the Whistler trip? I hate pedaling my DH bike and it's not just the back end that makes it suck - I can't imagine trying to clean tech climbs or pedal uphill for any distance with that (Avy tuned) RS Boxxer RC either. Do you have a single crown setup for your "normal" / no shuttle/lift access riding?
    Last edited by Khai; 10-10-2019 at 10:27 AM.

  33. #33
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    Hi Jazza,
    As a long time past SC owner I was excited to see the new TB4. Finally SC are back. I was thinking the new TB4 is the new blur trc - in a fashion. Fun fun and fun.

    I would not be concerned at all with the L for you. Personally at 5'11' I would go for the XL, so L would be fine for you.

    You would be so close, and the saddle can be your adjustment, 5mm forward wouldn't hurt. I have had a Pole and I like the steep SA. For me if I were to do a TB 4, I would go XL, run it long in the back, and slack it out 1 deg at the headset(steep the SA a smidge then), make sure I run a 30mm stem and as low as possible on the fork offset. It would rally hard and still pop. Perfect bike for hooning. Light and all day climbing still possible
    Just my twisted thoughts mate.
    Cheers

  34. #34
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    For me, the G1 is not my one bike solution to everything, even though I am confident it could be. I mainly ride it as a park bike. I致e also got a Knolly Fugitive (shorter travel setup) that I enjoy riding quite a bit when I am not looking for as much bike and want something that is more playful. I have a hardtail as well, but I consider that a different animal altogether.

    I am 511.5 with a very long inseam of just a bit over 34. I weigh about 175-180lbs dry in the morning. I chose to go with the large version of Nicolai痴 G1 and received it in the spring. I built it up pretty promptly with a similar spec to the following list, but made some changes to get to where I am.

    - 29 wheels front and back - I have considered trying a mullet setup, but just haven稚 gotten there yet.
    - MRP Hazzard Shock medium tune.
    - MRP Bartlett dual crown fork @ 180mm - I might try 190, since it won't change the geometry anyway.
    - GX Dub 165mm cranks - I originallY started with 170mm cranks.
    - Default mutators, so nice and low/slack - I had ordered it with a set of shorter chain stay mutators as well, which gives a slightly higher BB and steeper HTA. I liked it in that setting, but like this more.
    - Deity Micro DM 30mm stem - I tried a 50mm stem and like this a lot better for handling
    - OneUp V2 210mm dropper post - yes I ride it mostly in the park, but I have actually pedaled this bike for laps at a local trail center and it's pretty great!
    - Eagle drivetrain w/ OneUp switch chainring to make my gearing versatile.
    - Onyx hubs laced to Spank Oozy Vibrocore 350 rims.
    - Magic Mary tires front and rear.

    Compared to my previous bike, a Pole Evolink 150, it doesn稚 seem as fast over roots and rocks which I am starting to think is a function of shock tune rather than suspension design. During my last park day (this weekend), I backed the compression damping all of the way off and that was a big improvement over having it somewhere in the middle.

    Overall, the geometry is spot on. I don稚 know how it will pedal on trails with only 165mm cranks, but it痴 excellent when pointed down.

  35. #35
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    First of all, I do not know why you did choose a MRP Hazzard over the EXT Storia V3 custom made with negativ spring and spherical bearings?
    My suspension set up is the best ever on any bike. You will get a much more agile feel and a much better steering feel with the mullet set up. Have you tried different kind of coil springs? Mine felt a bit dead with to soft spring, and it was a lot better suspension with a 25lb/in firmer spring.

    Quote Originally Posted by syntheticreality View Post
    For me, the G1 is not my one bike solution to everything, even though I am confident it could be. I mainly ride it as a park bike. I致e also got a Knolly Fugitive (shorter travel setup) that I enjoy riding quite a bit when I am not looking for as much bike and want something that is more playful. I have a hardtail as well, but I consider that a different animal altogether.

    I am 511.5 with a very long inseam of just a bit over 34. I weigh about 175-180lbs dry in the morning. I chose to go with the large version of Nicolai痴 G1 and received it in the spring. I built it up pretty promptly with a similar spec to the following list, but made some changes to get to where I am.

    - 29 wheels front and back - I have considered trying a mullet setup, but just haven稚 gotten there yet.
    - MRP Hazzard Shock medium tune.
    - MRP Bartlett dual crown fork @ 180mm - I might try 190, since it won't change the geometry anyway.
    - GX Dub 165mm cranks - I originallY started with 170mm cranks.
    - Default mutators, so nice and low/slack - I had ordered it with a set of shorter chain stay mutators as well, which gives a slightly higher BB and steeper HTA. I liked it in that setting, but like this more.
    - Deity Micro DM 30mm stem - I tried a 50mm stem and like this a lot better for handling
    - OneUp V2 210mm dropper post - yes I ride it mostly in the park, but I have actually pedaled this bike for laps at a local trail center and it's pretty great!
    - Eagle drivetrain w/ OneUp switch chainring to make my gearing versatile.
    - Onyx hubs laced to Spank Oozy Vibrocore 350 rims.
    - Magic Mary tires front and rear.

    Compared to my previous bike, a Pole Evolink 150, it doesn稚 seem as fast over roots and rocks which I am starting to think is a function of shock tune rather than suspension design. During my last park day (this weekend), I backed the compression damping all of the way off and that was a big improvement over having it somewhere in the middle.

    Overall, the geometry is spot on. I don稚 know how it will pedal on trails with only 165mm cranks, but it痴 excellent when pointed down.

  36. #36
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    The G1 Thread-cfec6e5a-35f8-459b-90bf-59b8cd0c42d8.jpg
    This picture was with a 170mm dropper, 50mm stem, and the 170mm cranks.

    In regards to your question:
    I can tell you why. I have MRP Ribbon forks on my Fugitive, my Pedalhead and my wife痴 Rune. I have a Hazzard on my Fugitive and on her Rune. I ran a Raze on my Evolink 150, my Canfield Jedi, and my Banshee Darkside. I like the brand and have been happy with their products. They池e responsive and give me prompt, direct attention when I need service or help of any sort. They will also rebuild/resize the shock for me if I ever switch bikes (which happens more than I would like to admit) at a reasonable cost. Lastly, I get a good price on them through my dealer.

    Did you change mutators for the mullet set up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    First of all, I do not know why you did choose a MRP Hazzard over the EXT Storia V3 custom made with negativ spring and spherical bearings?
    My suspension set up is the best ever on any bike. You will get a much more agile feel and a much better steering feel with the mullet set up. Have you tried different kind of coil springs? Mine felt a bit dead with to soft spring, and it was a lot better suspension with a 25lb/in firmer spring.

  37. #37
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    Yes I have the 15mm mutators instead of 8.5mm on the seat stay, to maintain the correct BB height. Of course I understand your attention to MRP, and I think it is a great products. I really do think there is a great upgrade to use the EXT Storia V3 with spherical bearings. The initial plushness, mid stroke support and the bottom out feature puts the EXT on top of all coil shocks out there. If you read comments under the test in Pinkbike.com you will see riders preffering EXT over the Push shock too. Another thing, are you running the progressive coil from MRP too? Here is what Chris Porter is saying in the interview about the G1 in NSMB.com:
    "Have you done anything with other shocks and how would you work with someone who has something else they may wish to use?

    The G1 is developed to use the new EXT shock. If you use a 'normal' shock absorber you take a step backwards in terms of stiction and bushing friction. When you side load a 'normal' bushing it binds and creates a lot of friction. By going to the spherical bearings in the new shock we've taken a massive leap forward in how the bike feels and reacts when you push it to the limit. Of course, you can use any shock in there but it won't work as well!"



    Quote Originally Posted by syntheticreality View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This picture was with a 170mm dropper, 50mm stem, and the 170mm cranks.

    In regards to your question:
    I can tell you why. I have MRP Ribbon forks on my Fugitive, my Pedalhead and my wife痴 Rune. I have a Hazzard on my Fugitive and on her Rune. I ran a Raze on my Evolink 150, my Canfield Jedi, and my Banshee Darkside. I like the brand and have been happy with their products. They池e responsive and give me prompt, direct attention when I need service or help of any sort. They will also rebuild/resize the shock for me if I ever switch bikes (which happens more than I would like to admit) at a reasonable cost. Lastly, I get a good price on them through my dealer.

    Did you change mutators for the mullet set up?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by NG13 View Post
    Thoughts on 5'11" (180cm) person on a Long (small) G1 in 29er configuration?
    Would it be too small?
    My sweet spot for reach is about 470-480mm, based on the bikes I've demo'd in the past 6 months and felt comfortable on. (Transition Sentinel, Whyte G-170, Bird Aeris).

    I owned a Longest G13 in the past but it was simply too long on some of the tighter trails. Totally fine on the steeper, wider stuff.
    Hi, I am 6'2.5" and have recently moved to X-Longest G1. A G13 is quite a different beast to a G1. One of my pals rode my pals Longest G16 and even my X-Longest G1 and loved both, he bought a used Longest G13 and is still making changes to try get it to suit him in steep corners. That 29 rear is harder to turn I guess.
    I went XL G1, Partly because the longest G1 is a bit shorter than my old G16 Longest. I do really like the additional length. I'd be very reluctant to go shorter. Pilot (on here) is about your height and on Longest I think. He was thinking of Longer a while back though, I know.
    Last edited by mudfish801; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:13 AM.

  39. #39
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    Will highly recommend to have it set up with 27.5/29, since it get a lot easier in the corners. I was really skeptic since I always had a feel of the 27.5 wheel size hook up in roots and holes, but thanks to the awesome suspension and EXT Storia V3 it just feels almost as good. It even helps when you want to lift the front wheel.

    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Hi, I am 6'2.5" and have recently moved to X-Longest G1. A G13 is quite a different beast to a G1. One of my pals rode my pals Longest G16 and even my X-Logest G1 and loved both, he bought a used Longest G13 and is still making changes to try get it to suit him in steep corners. That 29 rear is harder to turn I guess.
    I went XL G1, Partly because the longest G1 is a bit shorter than my old G16 Longest. I do really like the additional length. I'd be very reluctant to go shorter. Pilot (on here) is about your height and on Longest I think. He was thinking of Longer a while back though, I know.

  40. #40
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    I'm looking at a G1 as a replacement for a DH bike, thinking it might be a little more nimble and encourage me to use it in some pedal areas rather than my 2 races and 2 park weekends a year.

    Anyway that's irrelevant to my question which is just clarifying what I've read elsewhere -

    If I want to run a Fox 40, the best bet is to use a 27.5" version with a 27.5" wheel. In that case is it still required to reduce travel to 180mm or can it stay at 200 ?

    Pretty sure you can stuff a 29" wheel in a 27.5 fox 40, does this work with the travel reduced ?

    My preference would be to have the option to try a 40 with both a 29" and 27.5" front wheel, assuming the 29" would definitely have to be reduced to 180.

    I currently own a 2015 27.5" fox 40 which has an ATC of 586.

    Not sure I'm phrasing the question correctly, I'm obviously just trying to understand what the permutations would be using a 40, running either 29/27.5/hybrid.

  41. #41
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    Hi Preston, pretty sure I saw one running a 200 set up with 27.5.

    The main thing though is to make sure of your offset. The shorter offset works best with the rest of the bike.

  42. #42
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    Hi Preston

    I vote for hybrid, more manouverable. [I have 160 travel lyric with 29 wheel upfront)

    You totally have to talk to Chris or Marcel @ Mojo about this, Chris runs a 65B/40 on his G1 (mind he has a 29 wheel in his with the crown relieved). Maybe you should consider the Mojo MORC 36 with a 29 front wheel, its lovely - that痴 what Marcel runs.?

    G1 27.5, hybrid and 29 versions are same frame just with different mutators & lower headset cup
    with a 40 as its long A/C you'd likely need to reduce travel (easy) and use the "no stack' lower cup of the 29 set-up. You must ask the experts.

    29 is VERY tight in a 650B 40 - almost no mud room and you definitely can't get a mudguard in - some owners machine out the 40/650 crown to give 29er mud room.

    Neil

    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    I'm looking at a G1 as a replacement for a DH bike, thinking it might be a little more nimble and encourage me to use it in some pedal areas rather than my 2 races and 2 park weekends a year.

    Anyway that's irrelevant to my question which is just clarifying what I've read elsewhere -

    If I want to run a Fox 40, the best bet is to use a 27.5" version with a 27.5" wheel. In that case is it still required to reduce travel to 180mm or can it stay at 200 ?

    Pretty sure you can stuff a 29" wheel in a 27.5 fox 40, does this work with the travel reduced ?

    My preference would be to have the option to try a 40 with both a 29" and 27.5" front wheel, assuming the 29" would definitely have to be reduced to 180.

    I currently own a 2015 27.5" fox 40 which has an ATC of 586.

    Not sure I'm phrasing the question correctly, I'm obviously just trying to understand what the permutations would be using a 40, running either 29/27.5/hybrid.

  43. #43
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    The MORC 40 "corrects" the 40 offset.
    I think the front would be pretty high with a 40 set to 200

    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Hi Preston, pretty sure I saw one running a 200 set up with 27.5.

    The main thing though is to make sure of your offset. The shorter offset works best with the rest of the bike.

  44. #44
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    I don't think MORC 36 is available yet.

    I put a 29*2.5 WT DHF with some wear in my 27.5 40 yesterday, it wasn't really that tight at all. Of course you have to raise it high enough for bottom out clearance. ATC was 587 after sliding the crowns up for bottom out clearance. This is only 10mm higher than a 170mm Fox 36 (29).

    This was a 2014 Fox 40 which seems to be a bit more compact than the newer ones at least according to Fox's drawings.

  45. #45
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    Could you post a picture of how much clearance?


    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    I don't think MORC 36 is available yet.

    I put a 29*2.5 WT DHF with some wear in my 27.5 40 yesterday, it wasn't really that tight at all. Of course you have to raise it high enough for bottom out clearance. ATC was 587 after sliding the crowns up for bottom out clearance. This is only 10mm higher than a 170mm Fox 36 (29).

    This was a 2014 Fox 40 which seems to be a bit more compact than the newer ones at least according to Fox's drawings.

  46. #46
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    Well it was tighter than I thought, but tolerable. If I ran this way I would probably go at it with a flap disc for mud, it spins freely like this.

    I know its mentioned somewhere in this thread, but is it straightforward to reduce 40 travel or does it require a new air spring ?

    The G1 Thread-clearance.jpg

  47. #47
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    I remember that in testing they actually took some material off the arch. Yes it is tight.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Here is the fork assembled on the work bench before fitting to the bike.

    As you can see, these were pulled out early in the manufacture and missed out on the etching phase. This doesn't worry me, I just want to use them.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi William K, still satisfied with your Morc36?
    I have heard that you are able to adjust travel by filling the positive or negative chamber so the fork travel sucks down? What travel are you using? What offset are you using, and what stem and stem spacers?
    Any tip about adjustment will be great!

    Sorry for all questions, but I am about to order a kit, and are so exited to hear about it.

  49. #49
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    Hi again,

    All good, very good. A small story, after riding the fork exclusively for weeks and over a variety of terrain and up to high speed. I jumped on my Trail bike and the very first trail that I started to hit over 35km/h I noticed a vagueness. The communication went. I was searching for the feel I had become accustom to. It was so stark and so interesting to experience. The next trail was 40+ and it was very evident if not disconcerting. Until you try it, you don't realise how much control single crowns give up. And high G dippers, you will notice how single crowns flex.

    Anyway, it was back on the trail bike and I have had a few weeks off the big bike and have been riding my trail bike exclusively. Then I had a friend borrow the G1 and he was blown away by the fork. I then had my trail bike in for a service and new tyre and I jumped back on the G1. On yeah, that is so good.

    Dominate control. And attacking the harder stuff much harder. Just amazing, Chris has it so good off the top, the mid is great and then you hit something monsterous and it eats it up. Coming back to it is great, you get impressed all over again.

    I have it at 170mm. It is the least offset, 41mm I believe. And it is a standard short DH Spank stem,30 or 35mm. If you have the right size bike, go with no more than 35mm stem. The short offset deserves it. I have a riser bar to give me a little more height, otherwise I would have had to use spacers.

    It's a great fork, stiff and commanding and has a high quality feel to it and a high quality performance.

    No single crown can match it and it has a better offset than most DH forks. A win win

    It is for going hard. It loves going hard.

  50. #50
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    What was the weight difference ?

    Is there a link to this kit ?

    What is the ATC you're running it at ?

    (You are using with 29" wheel I assume)

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    What was the weight difference ?

    Is there a link to this kit ?

    What is the ATC you're running it at ?

    (You are using with 29" wheel I assume)
    Here is the link, that says it is not available. It is during a month according Mojo. https://www.mojo.co.uk/morc-36-dc-of...kit-1082-p.asp

    The extra weight added to a original Fox 36 is if I am remembering correct around 350 grams.

    It should take both 29er and 650B. I am waiting to get a kit, so sorry for the vague answers.

  52. #52
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    Awesome to hear about the riding experience you have! I am just a bit in doubt, when you say you use your trail bike instead of your G1, since I am using my G1 as "do it all" bike :-).....anyway can bother you with some technical quesitons?

    -Do you need any special head set or is the kit fitting right into the standard ones?

    -You say you run it in 170mm, how are you adjusting travel, and is it 2 independent air chambers with their own filling valves?

    -Also how do you experience the Fit 4 damper unit compared to the Grip 2 unit?

    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamK View Post
    Hi again,

    All good, very good. A small story, after riding the fork exclusively for weeks and over a variety of terrain and up to high speed. I jumped on my Trail bike and the very first trail that I started to hit over 35km/h I noticed a vagueness. The communication went. I was searching for the feel I had become accustom to. It was so stark and so interesting to experience. The next trail was 40+ and it was very evident if not disconcerting. Until you try it, you don't realise how much control single crowns give up. And high G dippers, you will notice how single crowns flex.

    Anyway, it was back on the trail bike and I have had a few weeks off the big bike and have been riding my trail bike exclusively. Then I had a friend borrow the G1 and he was blown away by the fork. I then had my trail bike in for a service and new tyre and I jumped back on the G1. On yeah, that is so good.

    Dominate control. And attacking the harder stuff much harder. Just amazing, Chris has it so good off the top, the mid is great and then you hit something monsterous and it eats it up. Coming back to it is great, you get impressed all over again.

    I have it at 170mm. It is the least offset, 41mm I believe. And it is a standard short DH Spank stem,30 or 35mm. If you have the right size bike, go with no more than 35mm stem. The short offset deserves it. I have a riser bar to give me a little more height, otherwise I would have had to use spacers.

    It's a great fork, stiff and commanding and has a high quality feel to it and a high quality performance.

    No single crown can match it and it has a better offset than most DH forks. A win win

    It is for going hard. It loves going hard.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by honourablegeorge View Post
    I'm trying hard not to order. I've got a G16 (and G13 ) in the shed, and even though the G16 is second hand and has a good few years on it, it's still basically as new. Hard to justify changing when the bikes are so durable and high quality.

    That said - the heart wants, etc. I sort of have the money squirrelled away for a frame and fork.
    Ray,
    If you can find a loving home for the G16, I say go for it. The frames do last really well, so they have a good long long life ahead of them - that doesn稚 all have to be with you though. The EXT is a bloody great shock, well worth the swop especially with those spherical bushings. G1 has better rear clearance too, we have sticky mud, right! I am also enjoying being able to tune in BB height.

    Enjoy what you have but don't feel bad when the grass is greener.
    My first G16 found a great home as you know, my 2nd went to Jakub and he is loving it, do both got great new lives.
    neil

  54. #54
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    [QUOTE=NG13;14279541]Thoughts on 5'11" (180cm) person on a Long (small) G1 in 29er configuration?
    Would it be too small?
    My sweet spot for reach is about 470-480mm, based on the bikes I've demo'd in the past 6 months and felt comfortable on. (Transition Sentinel, Whyte G-170, Bird Aeris).

    Yeah, I'd say that痴 too small
    Consider Long or even Longest, talk to Chris and marcel about your riding
    I owned a Longest G13 in the past but it was simply too long on some of the tighter trails. Totally fine on the steeper, wider stuff.

  55. #55
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    Yep, agree, I've tried 29/29 and definitely prefer 650 rear. My last 2 Geometrons have been set-up that way

  56. #56
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    Hi, read the discussion about sizing Longer vs Longest for G1. I'm 180 with long legs. Tested Longer - the seatpost had to be quite high, bike felt short plus my hands were too low, carying to much body weight. But on a trail while standing in pedals it was a blast, felt great, much more balanced than on my current bike (Bronson. V2).
    Tested Longest too, with adjusted (447?) chainstays. The seated body position was much better, but I struggled with berms - was 'late' to turn, overall fel bit cumbersome (comparing to Longer). Struggling with the decision if to pull the trigger on Longest... Plus also new Raaw Madonna v2 came to the picture - Like the look of it too, got good reviews.. Any thoughts?
    Last edited by jfb77; 03-07-2020 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Typos

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    How much have y'all fiddled with the v3 Storia settings after getting it? I have left mine as-is from Nicolai as they told me that the Storia V3's custom tune was developed for the frame, and didn't recommend additional adjustments beyond that, regardless of riding style or weight. I am 210 lbs R2R, and am using the 400 lb spring with 170 mm cranks in 162mm travel position, with a couple turns of preload.
    Any input on appropriate sag? I have adjusted a lot of shocks in the past, but getting a custom Avalanche damper for my 36 really took the wind out of my tinkering sails as all the adjustments on a stock damper (F or R) pale in comparison to a custom damper. I just want to be sure I'm getting all I can be out of this fancy work of art on the rear.

    For a fun experiment, I rode my Mullet setup with CushCore back to back today with 29er setup without CushCore (yes, I Mutated, similar tires). Weirdly, on a mostly XC track with only a couple hundred feet of elevation change throughout the 4 miles, the Mullet with CushCore was marginally faster - 20 seconds on a 25 minute lap, despite the significant difference in rotational weight. Based on my experience with this track, I anticipate the 20s gap to be a slight underrepresentation of reality. I am shocked by this as the CushCore Mullet setup is noticeably slower to accelerate. Now, I have only 4 miles on the 29er setup, but I was impressed with the way the rear moved over bumps vs. the 27.5" rear, again, surprising me that the Mullet-CushCore setup was faster. Smooth is fast though, as they say, and 16 PSI in the front with 17 PSI in the rear makes for a very smooth trail. Had 20F 21R on the other setup.

    Also, at 6' tall, I LOVE the Longest G1 - it helps me get over the front, and I feel much more in command of my bike, but don't feel at risk of going OTB. I have 170mm 36 on there with 30mm stem and 20 mm of spacers underneath, Enve high-rise bars in a conventional position. I did have to learn to retime my riding slightly (happened within 2 rides) as the rear is a little further back than it was on my Long Geometron. It is such a nice feeling to be able to weight the front appropriately without fearing OTB. Maybe it's my inferior skillset, but I don't know how others weight the front on those short bikes without risking OTB constantly. I feel lucky to have this "crutch" to be able to ride better and better weight F vs. R, without risking OTB or riding the rear tire too much and letting the front wash.

    In other news, anyone want my Long Geometron? It's up for sale, along with a number of other parts from that build. It would be best for a rider shorter than 6' tall, and since it's Mullet-friendly, or 27.5" F&R, it would be best for someone shorter than me anyway, or someone wanting a tad more playful ride.

  58. #58
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    Hi G1 owners,
    I知 about to purchase my first G1 frame and would like to ask options of other G1 owners regarding the size?
    I知 58 or 172cm and can稚 decide whether to go with the long(small) or longer(medium) frames.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poser79 View Post
    Hi G1 owners,
    I知 about to purchase my first G1 frame and would like to ask options of other G1 owners regarding the size?
    I知 58 or 172cm and can稚 decide whether to go with the long(small) or longer(medium) frames.
    Came here looking for a G1 thread to ask the same question. If I stand up tall, I can stretch it to 175cm or just under 5'9 with bare feet.

    I'm also wondering about the Ion G15. I think I'm more interested in this bike than the G1 due to the geometry. Will this bike continue in the line-up? Any feedback on the G15 vs the G1.

  60. #60
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    G15 does not seem to be in production anymore, at least it is not listed in Nicolai web pages. Perhaps you should consider Saturn 14, which is a trail bike.

  61. #61
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    Thanks for the great thread. Having been following it religiously and getting ready to pull the trigger on a G1. Can I ask thoughts on sizing for a 6'5" (195cm) rider?

    Trying to decide on the XL or XXL frame. For reference, I'm coming off an XL Transition Sentinel with a 500mm reach which has been a great bike for a couple years but has always felt small. The Sentinel has been set up with a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bars to try and make it feel bigger, and it's time to get on the Geometron.

    Any thoughts on XL versus XXL are greatly appreciated.

  62. #62
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    Definately xxl, I come from a XL Sentinel and choosed G1 in xl. Would probably choosed xxl if I should decide today. My height is 192cm.
    Quote Originally Posted by s4d33 View Post
    Thanks for the great thread. Having been following it religiously and getting ready to pull the trigger on a G1. Can I ask thoughts on sizing for a 6'5" (195cm) rider?

    Trying to decide on the XL or XXL frame. For reference, I'm coming off an XL Transition Sentinel with a 500mm reach which has been a great bike for a couple years but has always felt small. The Sentinel has been set up with a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bars to try and make it feel bigger, and it's time to get on the Geometron.

    Any thoughts on XL versus XXL are greatly appreciated.

  63. #63
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    s4d33
    Definitely go XXL, definias a tall guy it will be a revelation with
    1: enough room
    2: the rear end balancing the front.
    I am 6'2" and on an XL G1 for the last 12 months, I may even consider XXL next time. Geometron originator Chris Porter likes to ride the XXL too, but I read he finds the seat tube just a bit too high, says his legs are short. He's about my height, but I have more height in the legs.
    Your previous bike isn't really that relevant because Geometron is a new paradigm. How already know its to short which is good.
    I came off a size L Nicolai AM bike in 2015 and the "Longest" G16 I bought was almost 100mm longer in reach. But in half a day I adapted and loved it. Surprisingly I find the XL G1 even better in tight tracks, must be the improved balance.

  64. #64
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    Thanks for the responses Mudfish and Rumblefish. Hugely appreciated. It sounds like the XXL could be a great fit. On paper it's looks so much larger than my current bike. I live in B.C. with a range of very tight technical riding and wide open flow. Wanted to make sure it would be versatile enough for both styles of riding.

  65. #65
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    Concur. I am 181cm and I rode my mates XXL as we did a bike swap for a couple of park runs and I was absolutely fine on it. Actually faster on a couple of sections. It works.

  66. #66
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    It's been a while since I've posted on here for various reasons, but after the last couple of months of tinkering and riding the G1 thought I'd share my latest impressions.

    Firstly, my medium (longer) G1 was too small for me at 5ft10ish circa 179/180cm. Too small in very noticeable and unforgiving way once I rode a Large/longest.
    On the medium I was fine on more moderte terrain but nosediving landings and struggling with turn in. I had to run a 50mm stem, 40mm of stem spacers and bars rotated forward to overcome that.

    On the large, none of that happens. Cornering traction and turn in is simply a revelation. On the Medium, I could tell the suspension platform was special but the bike being too small stopped me from getting the best out of it, by some margin!

    Now I'm running a 35mm stem, 10 - 15mm of spacers and a 38mm bar rotated well forward. I've replaced the 160mm forks with 180mm forks and have ended up running the shock set in the 170mm position as I seemed to be between spring weights so the firmer spring in the lower position feels best despite 160mm of travel being adequate for my riding.

    I've also played around quite a bit with BB height. I've tried running 3.5mm, 6.5mm and 10mm mutators with the shock at around 26% sag and just enough pre-load to stop the spring rattling.

    For me, the 3.5mm mutators were a revelation in the corners but do compromise climbing performance. No Issues with bottom bracket height and pedal strikes with 170mm cranks though. Deffinitely my go to setting for Bike park days.
    The 6.5mm mutators offer a good compromise for me for general trail riding.

    I would really like to try an XL as I suspect I would probably be faster from a racing perspective on one but I'm happy with the Large as my only bike as I find it a good compromise between stability and agility.

    For anyone who hasn't ridden one but deliberating on size, a note of caution. I personally think they ride a lot shorter than the numbers alone suggest, especially when seated. Everyone has different physiology and so different seated reach, placement of mass etc but I would be very wary of 'undersizing' for agility.

    Despite being way longer, the Medium G1 rode very similar to my wifes small lapierre in that it was fine on flatter terrain but sketchy when airborn and on steep, slow and technical terrain. May sound weird but that's what I found.

    Anyhoo, I'm loving my large, it is without doubt the best bike I have owned and is a revelation in terms of speed, agility and cornering grip. On the subject of grip, I've found the Storia to deliver so much traction that I've upped tyre pressures from my usual 21-22psi to 25 - 27psi in the rear ( I'm 65KG's on a 29er) which has resulted in a noticeable improvement in rolling resistance.

    I've also increased rear spoke tension quite a bit which seems to have made the bike more direct but I'm not 100% sure whether its adversely impacted traction when the rear is not fully loaded.

    I'm finding the more you put into to fine tuning the set up, the better it gets which was one of the big attractions in the first place. There is so much adjustability if you want to explore it.

  67. #67
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    I'm having fun with my new XXL G1 called Cinderella.

    I've got a few questions if anyone has their thinking caps on.

    162 vs 175, has anyone seen the leverage curves or know how they ride comparatively?

    I'm also running a ccdb coil (as it cost me 」1000 less).
    Am curious how people have their shocks set.

    The climb switch is adjustable on mine on compression side.
    Climb switch lsc one from closed, Lsr 1.5mm (almost full open).

    Regular lsc full open
    Regular Lsr a few clicks in
    Hsc (firm poppet spring) 0.25 in
    Hsr (firm poppet) 2 in.
    500lb coil.

    230x70 and spherical bearings.

    I've got a heavily upgraded dorado, running around 180mm with the crowns set high (similar to 200mm with crowns low, but better pos/neg spring ratio.).


    What have people learned about how to get the most out of the frame?

    Any insights on 162/175?
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  68. #68
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    As far as 162/175 I prefer 175 as it makes the dynamic ride height a bit lower which makes for more of a "corners on rails" feeling and confidence in steeps. I'm running the standard 3mm chainstay mutator, bottom bracket around 332mm. I live and ride in Santa Cruz on primarily steep trails and this is what has felt best to me.

  69. #69
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    G1 Leverage Ratio

    CaveGiant, you can find the G1 leverage ratio on the Nicolai webpage in the tech sheet:
    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...OP9Y6/pubhtml#

  70. #70
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    why not join the Geometron Bikes Owners Club Facebook group

    Hey Pigglet13,
    that痴 a nice explanation, why not post it to the Geometron Bikes Owners Club Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/2059724154296792
    Quite often there are chats on there about sizing
    neil

  71. #71
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant View Post
    I'm having fun with my new XXL G1 called Cinderella.

    I've got a few questions if anyone has their thinking caps on.

    162 vs 175, has anyone seen the leverage curves or know how they ride comparatively?

    I'm also running a ccdb coil (as it cost me 」1000 less).
    Am curious how people have their shocks set.

    The climb switch is adjustable on mine on compression side.
    Climb switch lsc one from closed, Lsr 1.5mm (almost full open).

    Regular lsc full open
    Regular Lsr a few clicks in
    Hsc (firm poppet spring) 0.25 in
    Hsr (firm poppet) 2 in.
    500lb coil.

    230x70 and spherical bearings.

    I've got a heavily upgraded dorado, running around 180mm with the crowns set high (similar to 200mm with crowns low, but better pos/neg spring ratio.).


    What have people learned about how to get the most out of the frame?

    Any insights on 162/175?
    As per my post above, i'm running my bike in the 172mm setting for no other reason that it offers the best balance of support an traction with my spring weight, not because i need the extra travel.

    How to get the best from the frame? Experiment. You can read up on spring weights and leverage curves all you want but the only way to find out what works best for you is to get some mutators, a couple of different springs and go and experiment. No two people of the same weight will prefer the same set up as body shape/ physiology and riding style will put weight in different places between the wheels.

    I've played about with tyre pressures, spoke tension and have around 8 tyres in the garage I've been experimenting with on my terrain. It all has an impact on traction and composure. Ultimately now I'm realtively happy with my set-up I want to do a datalogger day (proper one, not shockwiz or similar) to get it 100% dialed and fully understand what the frame and suspension are doing but that may not happen until next year now. Will it make me faster? Probably not by much if at all but I like to full understand what is going on and that's the only way to know for sure.

    The EXT Storia is designed for the G1 frame and comes with 2 springs for the different shock positions. Even so I ordered a 3rd, firmer spring which is what I'm now running. The faster and harder you push it, the better it feels which is fine by me.

    Regarding shock settings, anyone running a Geometron Supplied EXT should effectively have a custom tuned shock supplied with the bike and so their damping settings will be relatively meaningless to others.

    It's an extrordinarily capable bike which with the well damped EXT manages to combine both amazing traction and composure at speed with barely any unwanted bobbing around when climbing. Certainly no more than other shorter travel bikes I have owned running air shocks. Just make sure your fork can keep up otherwise it's doing the frame a disservice.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudfish801 View Post
    Hey Pigglet13,
    that痴 a nice explanation, why not post it to the Geometron Bikes Owners Club Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/2059724154296792
    Quite often there are chats on there about sizing
    neil

    Hi Neil

    I'm not on any form of social media other than a couple of forums plus my access to t'interweb is sporadic. Feel free to post that comment on the forum on my behalf.

  73. #73
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    Demo with [email protected] last Friday. Car park spin on the Longer, felt too small (6ft) and the Longest felt more comfortable, previous bike was 495mm (161) reach, prior to that 465mm (large 2019 enduro)

    Did a loop I know and PR'd a few trails, even with an aggressor on the back, trails were greasy and its not a tyre I like anyway, lacks side bite and braking traction. Made a few changes on the way round, spring and fork pressures remained the same, played with the rear damper and fork settings more so.

    Picked up a G1 the same day and built it up ready for the weekend. Two rides, 7000ft later, its immense, the traction and composure from the rear is amazing, running higher tyre pressures as I can get away with it.
    Climbs really well, better than the enduro I had and also better than the 161.

    Mulling over the front fork, currently on the unfashionable 51mm offset, like the Selva, but need to check if the 170/180 is available. Had Lyrik's before which I liked. EXT is an unknown and I dont fancy being a guinea pig again (been there with Ohlins).

    The G1 Thread-whatsapp-image-2020-09-07-09.43.21.jpg

  74. #74
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    I just built up a G1 over the week!!! Is there a base shock setup anyone aware of?? I'm about 180lbs with gear running a 375# spring? Just looking for a start point on the EXT. Right now I'm 2 clicks HI 2 clicks low and 5 rebound

    Thanks

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by sourDz View Post
    I just built up a G1 over the week!!! Is there a base shock setup anyone aware of?? I'm about 180lbs with gear running a 375# spring? Just looking for a start point on the EXT. Right now I'm 2 clicks HI 2 clicks low and 5 rebound
    375 spring rider weight 170lb
    Longest bike Lyric upfront - I am pretty close to factory default
    HSC 17
    LSC 7
    R 6
    all from fully open (fully anti clockwise)
    first discernible click counts as zero.

    hope you're enjoying the bike

    neil

  76. #76
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    Wink 2 Facebook Geometron goups

    "Geometron owners" group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2059724154296792/
    there's a great review from Ole, an EXT ERA for owner too.

    "Geometron, why that bike" - rider specs and impressions
    inspired by a Vital MTB Geometron riders article
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/356107268832807

    https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Wh...0S2A4RMJIXARdk

    neil
    very happy XL G1 owner

  77. #77
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    Thanks Neil! I'm loving the G1!!

    Build
    Longest
    Manitou Mezzer 180
    Full AXS and dropper
    We Are One Union on Onxy classic
    Hope 170 Cranks
    Dagga pedals
    Hope V4 223/202 rotors
    FUNN Funduro 45mm stem
    Joy Stick carbon bars 790
    Rev grips
    Swat steer tube tool
    Goodyear Wild Enduro tires

    35lbs
    Last edited by sourDz; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:15 AM.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir HC View Post
    Climbs really well, better than the enduro I had and also better than the 161.
    Could you elaborate more on the comparison between the rear suspension of the G1 with EXT Storia and the 161 with RS SuperDeluxe air? I'm curious about the difference between the two especially going uphill (I'm almost certain the G1 will be superior to the 161 in the downhills).

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.kalis View Post
    Could you elaborate more on the comparison between the rear suspension of the G1 with EXT Storia and the 161 with RS SuperDeluxe air? I'm curious about the difference between the two especially going uphill (I'm almost certain the G1 will be superior to the 161 in the downhills).

    The RS SuperD on the 161 is really overdamped and has quite a stiff pedalling platform, means it sits up in its travel. The seat angle is also super steep, which when climbing steep hills, your weight doesn't hang over the back wheel, feels like it has super long stays.
    I found the 161 puts a lot of weight on your arms, you get used to it after a while. Never used the lockout.
    Fitted an X2 air, as couldn't get the RS to work right, much better, bike actually went through the bumps properly (after I'd rebuilt the back end and shimmed it so it actually moved!, see pinkbike for the issues people are having).

    G1 goes uphill just as well, used the lockout a few times, but 99.9% of the time its in open. Realyl good pedalling platform that doesn't mess with the small bump.

    Going downhill, the G1 and Storia are miles ahead of the 161. Way more agile than the 161, goes through the rough like its not there and super stable in the air.

    Buying a Geometron is a very different experience to any other bike I've had. They arn't selling just a bike, its their knowledge and setup process to make the bike work perfectly. When you spend 10k on an enduro, don't see Spesh setting it up for you properly !!!

  80. #80
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    Thanks at lot for your detailed comparison!

    Did you loose the "poppy" nature of the 161 + SuperD combo when switching to G1 + Storia?

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.kalis View Post
    Thanks at lot for your detailed comparison!

    Did you loose the "poppy" nature of the 161 + SuperD combo when switching to G1 + Storia?
    I wouldn't have called the 161 poppy, G1 jumps and corners better and is more agile. [email protected] makes his G1 fly through jumps.

  82. #82
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    Great news!

  83. #83
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    I'm joining the club!!

    I just clicked the BUY button for the G1!
    So stoked!!

    I've been in the market for a new bike/frame for about a year now. I've been looking at everything that could possibly be a contender for my ~200cm (6'6"), rtr 115kg (253lbs) stature.

    In general, some of the numbers I was looking for needed to be at or more than - Reach 515mm, CS 445mm, WB 1270mm. 29er wheels of course!

    I was enamoured with getting a progressive steel framed full suspension bike at first.
    But I kept circling back to the GeoMetron G1.
    There were a handful of bikes that made it on my shortlist but the G1 ticked all of the boxes.

    In the end the GeoMetron G1 won out!

    I'm getting the frame and shock package and doing a custom build from there.

    I've been picking up parts over the last few months in anticipation of starting a new build. Unfortunately, with covid a few of the parts I need are out of stock and won't be available until the new year. That's okay, though, as snow has settled in the valley here in Whistler bringing the bike season to a close.

    Here's my build list:

    Frame - XX Longest G1 Raw Aluminum - Red anodized Extra Love Kit - red frame decals

    Shock - EXT Storia LOK V3

    Fork - TBD (most likely an RS Zeb Ultimate RC2 170mm - a small possibility of a Fox 38 RC2)

    Bars - Chromag OSX 35 silver with red accents

    Stem - Chromag BZA 35mm red (with Chromag stem spacers in red and silver, Chromag top cap)

    Grips - Sensus Meaty Paws

    Brakes - TBD Code RSC 220mm front 200mm rear (looking to get Goodridge braided hose with a clear red pvc coating)

    Crankset - RaceFace Atlas 170mm red

    Chainring - OneUp Switch Oval 28T

    Drivetrain - TBD Sram GX 12spd 10-52T or SunRace 11spd 11-50T, GX derailleur & shifter

    Pedals - Chromag Dagga silver

    Seatpost - OneUp 210mm

    Saddle - Chromag Lift black/red

    Wheelset - Chromag BA30 (with both freehubs - XD driver and an HG freehub)

    Tires - Magic Mary & Big Betty 2.3 Addix Soft Super Gravity Tan Wall or Maxxis Assegai DD 2.5 MaxxGrip & Maxxis DHR2 EXO+ 2.4 MaxxTerra

    Inserts - TBD CushCore Pro or Tannus Armour (unsure if I'll be running inserts)


    If the Zeb doesn't materialize I'll get a Lyrik Ultimate RC2. I'm on the fence as whether I should go 170mm or 180mm with the fork.
    If the GX 12spd groupo doesn't show I'll piece together some 11spd SunRace and GX bits.
    I'm pretty set on the Code RSC but the new TRP DH-R Evo could be the fill in if the Codes don't appear. Although, the TRP's are in the same availability issue as the Codes.
    The above parts are the bits that I don't have yet. The ETA of them is sometime starting in February 2021.

    My main use for the G1 will be everything outside of the Whistler Bike Park to start. I'm thinking that I'll go down to one full suspension bike and sell my DH bike. Which means the the G1 will see regular duty in the bike park. For that I'm thinking of getting a second wheelset.

    I'm so excited for this project to get off the ground!
    I'm also really excited about riding a bike that actually fits me!! I've yet to ride a bike that I immediately think "oh, this bike isn't too small". My last couple of bikes have gotten closer but still felt small at times. I'm coming from a Gen 1 XL Transition Sentinel. My hardtail is a 2019 Kona HonzoST and my really disappointing DH bike is a 2019 29er GT Fury (my 2016 27.5 Giant Glory fit way better!).

  84. #84
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    Welcome to the club, you wont be leaving!


    As far as the build, I'd go for the Zeb, already reports of the 38 creaking, which is madness.

    Drivetrain, I'd recommend full XT. Its better quality than the GX, same weight (if thats important) and the clutch actually works (and is adjustable), IMO the latest Sram 12 speed stuff is not nearly as reliable as the 11 speed.

    Brakes, Formulas are very very good and in europe are very reasonably priced.


    I started off on full 29er, built a 650b rear wheel to try, havent switched back to 29 rear! Find the bike is more forgiving and initiating turns is easier, I find that 29ers stand up when you get on the brakes when cornering, which we are all guilty off !

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir HC View Post
    Welcome to the club, you wont be leaving!


    As far as the build, I'd go for the Zeb, already reports of the 38 creaking, which is madness.

    Drivetrain, I'd recommend full XT. Its better quality than the GX, same weight (if thats important) and the clutch actually works (and is adjustable), IMO the latest Sram 12 speed stuff is not nearly as reliable as the 11 speed.

    Brakes, Formulas are very very good and in europe are very reasonably priced.


    I started off on full 29er, built a 650b rear wheel to try, havent switched back to 29 rear! Find the bike is more forgiving and initiating turns is easier, I find that 29ers stand up when you get on the brakes when cornering, which we are all guilty off !
    Thanks! I'm quite sure that I'll be enjoying my G1 for years to come!!

    I have read about some creaking issues with the 38. I've had a 36 for years and never had the dreaded CSU creak. So, I'm not super concerned with that... at least until it happens to me! That being said I definitely can get a deal on the Zeb/Lyrik whereas it's iffy as to whether I can get a deal on the 38.

    For drivetrain I can get better pricing on Sram. Also I've run Sram for close to 20 years on all my bikes and don't really have any major complaints about it.
    My current bikes run SunRace cassettes with a mix of GX and X0 shifters/derailleurs. I'm looking at GX because it's a workhorse and doesn't hurt the wallet. It also has a bigger pie plate of a gear at 52T. I need all the help I can get for going uphill! The other reason I'm looking at the new Sram 12spd with the 52T is that if the G1 doesn't play nice with a 28T chainring then moving to a 30T ring won't have me losing my current low gear. The 30x52 is the same ratio as 28x50.

    For brakes, again, I can get better pricing on Sram stuff. And, possibly the TRP brakes as well. I haven't really seen Formula in my neck of the woods. Either in the wild or in shops.

    As for wheel size on the back of the bike I'm content to run a 29 wheel. I don't really have any interest or extra money to throw at getting a 27.5 rear wheel to experiment. I'm happy with the way the 29 wheels work for me. I'm definitely not #hotformullet! lol!
    As you mentioned if you stay off the brakes the bike will corner better. And, that's regardless of wheel size. I just need to remind myself every now and again to practice what I coach! Get off the brakes!!

    I love this stage of the bike building process!
    The possibilities are endless! I just need to be careful to not go too far down the rabbit hole with the thought experiments of how to put this bike together. I may start to obsess over some inconsequential details!

    It's definitely going to be a long wait until Spring and the start of the bike season! I'm probably going to be spending a lot of time hanging out in my storage room gazing at my new G1!

  86. #86
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    @rideeverything
    so sick, the G1 is such a bad ass bike. You should consider getting a boxxer, or other dual crown fork, totally changes how the bike rides in a better in every way kind of way way. I am on the heavier side (97kg) though not as heavy as you and ride steep trails and the flex of the 36 definitely took away from the confidence of the bike, i spent 1.5 years with a 36 and then got a boxxer and haven't looked back. The boxxer is easy to find lightly used for cheap, travel is easily adjustable, they are pretty close in weight (200g more than a zeb) to the beefy single crowns but the increase in performance is undeniable. Either way you'll be stoked, such a capable bike

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieTelesco View Post
    @rideeverything
    so sick, the G1 is such a bad ass bike. You should consider getting a boxxer, or other dual crown fork, totally changes how the bike rides in a better in every way kind of way way. I am on the heavier side (97kg) though not as heavy as you and ride steep trails and the flex of the 36 definitely took away from the confidence of the bike, i spent 1.5 years with a 36 and then got a boxxer and haven't looked back. The boxxer is easy to find lightly used for cheap, travel is easily adjustable, they are pretty close in weight (200g more than a zeb) to the beefy single crowns but the increase in performance is undeniable. Either way you'll be stoked, such a capable bike
    Thanks!

    I do have a DH bike that I'm not very happy with. My long term plans are to eventually run my G1 as my One Bike and sell the DH bike.
    But... I have had it in the back of my head to just sell the frame and keep the parts to use with my G1. Namely the wheelset. On the GT Fury, weirdly, it's built with a 148mm rear. I am thinking of getting a second wheelset for park days and this would save me the cost of doing that.

    Your suggestion of installing a Boxxer would be easy enough to do if I kept the wheels from my DH bike. However, I have some reservations about running a DC fork. The turning radius concerns me. From what I have read it seems that it isn't really an issue. But, from my real world riding of my DH bike it feels like such a beast (not in a bad way) and when riding tight tech trails in the park I have, on occasion, been caught out by the limited turning radius (totally my own fault!). Outside of the park there are many more trails that have tight tech sections which has me hesitant to commit to a DC fork on the G1. Also, I am not keen to make the G1 feel more beastly than I assume it already is.
    I think I know what I've signed up for with this bike so it shouldn't surprise me too much with how big it feels. But, it is still an unknown to me. All I have to go on are the limited ride reports and articles floating around on the web/YouTube.

    All that being said this is just theoretical what-ifs right now. If I don't sell my DH bike I definitely will be trying out the Boxxer on the G1. If that happens the question then becomes 'How much travel?'! Decisions, decisions!

  88. #88
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    Dual Crown doesn't affect my steering. I've got a Dorado on my xxl G1.

    I find the bike to be most balanced at 190mm.

    The bike deserves a proper fork.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  89. #89
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    I've done more bike nerding to sus out how to make the Boxxer I have work with the G1.

    It turns out the HT on the GT Fury is tiny! Because of that I would need to get a new lower crown to have a long enough of a steerer tube. The current length of the steerer is shorter than the length of the G1 HT.

    Secondly, I think I may need to get a new upper crown (a Tall Crown) because the one I have currently is the Short Crown (flat).
    The reasons, as I understand it, why I would need to get the Tall Crown is -
    - There might not be enough stanchion measured from the top of the lower crown to the top of the stanchion when installed (min 163mm with min 2mm above the upper crown)
    - Because of the longer HT on the G1 it will take away from the useable travel on the stanchion
    - Because I'm lowering the fork travel (new air spring) having the flat crown takes away the amount of bar height adjustability I'll possibly have. That is if I can use the current Short Crown.
    When my frame arrives I'll put the Boxxer on to get a better look at fitment.

    If any of the above doesn't make sense or is misguided please let me know.

    Another issue is I'll need to get a new lower headset cup as the one the G1 comes with is a tapered headset.

    Does anyone know if Hope makes a reducer that pops into the lower headset cup to run a full 1 1/8 steerer. Then I wouldn't need to be committed to one or the other in regards to which fork I can run.

    All in with the new crowns/steerer, lower headset cup and new air shaft it'll be half the price of a Zeb.

    If I decide to go with the Boxxer I will have the choice to get a different fork offset. The current crowns give the fork a 56mm offset. I can get crowns that will have a 46mm offset or crowns that have the same offset as now.
    I'm thinking the shorter offset may be better to sharpen up the steering. I went from a 51mm offset to a 42mm on my last bike and I noticed that it sharpened the steering. It was subtle but noticeable. I found it especially beneficial on my hardtail.

    Ah, the endless possibilities! Like I said in an earlier post I love this stage of the bike building process. The nerding out on the what-ifs is great! It helps build the anticipation of the finished bike!

    -edit- I was just notified that my G1 frame should be arriving on Wednesday!

  90. #90
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    Hope makes a 1.5 to 1 1/8 adapter, HS136

    Opportunity to go for a set of adjustable crowns?
    https://m.pinkbike.com/news/review-o...et-crowns.html

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir HC View Post
    Hope makes a 1.5 to 1 1/8 adapter, HS136

    Opportunity to go for a set of adjustable crowns?
    https://m.pinkbike.com/news/review-o...et-crowns.html
    Thanks for the adapter tip.
    Hope's site doesn't make it easy to find anything! I did find the adapter in an exploded diagram but not for individual purchase. I ordered it through CRC instead.

    Nice find on the adjustable crowns. Although, that's a bit beyond what I'm willing to experiment with! I think I'll go with the 46mm offset crowns as the G1 is already a long bike.

    I've also found a Boxxer C1 180mm DebonAir spring on Amazon. Ordered it the moment I found it as everywhere I've looked it's sold out with no definitive date on when it'll be re-stocked.

  92. #92
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    So, this happened a short while ago!

    Woohoo!






    Also, a Hope Head Doctor was included with the headset! I love little surprises!

  93. #93
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    Any advice regarding seatstay mutators, headset and fork's axle-to-crown for configuring a G1 in 27.5 with 33 mm mutators? More specifically I知 interested in BB height real-life measures, because Geometron and Nicolai data sheets are not very consistent in 27.5.

    I知 torn between 3.5, 6.5 and 10 mm seatstay mutators, and between using my Lyrik in longer travel (180) or in shorter travel (170 or 160) with a +13 mm lower headset cup.
    Any advice?

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.kalis View Post
    Any advice regarding seatstay mutators, headset and fork's axle-to-crown for configuring a G1 in 27.5 with 33 mm mutators? More specifically I知 interested in BB height real-life measures, because Geometron and Nicolai data sheets are not very consistent in 27.5.

    I知 torn between 3.5, 6.5 and 10 mm seatstay mutators, and between using my Lyrik in longer travel (180) or in shorter travel (170 or 160) with a +13 mm lower headset cup.
    Any advice?
    I'd drop Geometron a mail or call them, they are always very helpful.

  95. #95
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    Nicolai suggests 3.5 mm, Geometron 6.5 mm.

    But according to data sheets (the 29 ones, the only reliable ones) with a 170 Lyrik with a +13 mm lower headset cup or a 180 Lyrik with a standard headset, this would lead to approx. 26 mm and 22 mm BB drops, for respectively 3.5 mm and 6.5 mm mutators, which is very low for a 27.5 bike.

    That痴 why I知 asking for advices from users having possibly tested other configurations, or having real-life measures of Nicolai and Geometron configurations.

  96. #96
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    Today I installed a few of the parts I currently have onto my G1. Rear brake adapter, BB, cranks and pedals.

    I also tried the wheels from my DH bike. I'm actually happy now that GT did a silly thing and designed 148mm rear spacing on the DH bike.
    I fashioned a steerer extender and head tube spacers with cardboard to have a look at how the Boxxer would look on the bike. The fork is currently at 200mm of travel.

    I'm waiting on my order of the new crowns/steerer and a 180mm air spring. Once I receive those I'll drop the fork off at Vorsprung for a service and the install of the new air spring.








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